Join Ben Long for an in-depth discussion in this video Manual mode plus Auto ISO equals misomatic, part of Fuji X-T1: Tips and Techniques.
- The combination of manual mode and auto ISO allows for an interesting variation on automatic exposure that some have dubbed Mesomatic. Let's say you have very specific shutter speed and aperture needs. Perhaps you're shooting a moving subject and want to blur motion and so would like to shoot with a slow shutter speed. In shutter priority mode the camera will likely open the aperture wide to ensure this slower shutter speed. But perhaps in addition to slow shutter speed you also want a small aperture to guarantee deep depth of field and a sharp background.
There's no way I can dial in both parameters in program mode or either priority mode, however in manual mode I can. So if I switch to manual mode and put the shutter speed and aperture where I want, then set ISO to auto I can have the shutter speed and aperture control that I need while the camera guarantees good exposure by manipulating ISO. Depending on the settings I've chosen and the lighting in the scene the camera may or may not be able to move ISO far enough to get a good exposure, but for most regular lighting situations and reasonable shutter speeds and apertures it shouldn't have any trouble.
Normally when you're in manual mode the exposure compensation dial won't do anything. After all, what could it do? The point of manual mode is that it shoots at the settings you've chosen. In manual mode there's no way that the camera can know what parameter to change if you turn the exposure compensation dial. However, if your camera has firmware version four or later then when you're in manual mode with ISO set to auto turning the exposure compensation dial will alter ISO. This means that if you choose a shutter speed and aperture and meter your shot and find that the camera has chosen an ISO that's yielding an image that's brighter or darker than you like you can simply turn the exposure compensation dial to brighten or darken the image, just like you would in any other mode.
Of course this only works if the camera has enough ISO latitude, so it's a good idea to set the default and maximum ISO settings to the camera's full range of ISO 200 to ISO 6400. Finally, in the shooting menu under bracketing advanced settings, you'll find something called ISO bracketing, ISO B-K-T. You might think that this shoots a series of images with different ISOs, but it doesn't. This only works in JPEG mode. It shoots a single shot at the selected ISO and then processes the image twice to produce one image that's bracketed up and another that's bracketed down.
There's really no need to ever use this feature, it's much better to actually bracket for real by hand by changing ISO. If you're a RAW shooter we're gonna have a lot more to say about ISO later.
In this course, photographer and educator Ben Long demonstrates a set of customization strategies aimed at making the Fuji X-T1 far more responsive and effective. That way, you can focus on composition and creativity, and let your camera handle the rest.
- Using the viewfinder and LCD
- Understanding the F and E locks
- Improving focus on the Fuji X-T1
- Choosing third-stop shutter speeds
- Exploring shallow depth of field
- Spot metering
- Exploring autofocus modes
- Controlling JPEG and RAW image results
- Customizing menus and buttons
- Working with lenses and accessories