Join Richard Harrington for an in-depth discussion in this video Reducing chromatic aberration, part of Time-Lapse Video: High-Dynamic Range (HDR).
Look at some of the edges. You'll note chromatic aberration. It's particularly visible since we pushed this image so far. A distinct green halo along the outside edge and a pink halo over here. Chromatic aberration is something that affects nearly all cameras. The cheaper the glass, the smaller the sensor, the higher the contrast, the more likely it is to happen. It's a problem that we've lived with for a long time, but if you don't know to look for it you often miss it. Zoom to 100%, Look closely at the high contrast edges, and you can often spot it and get rid of it.
Its very simple, its just a click inside of Adobe Camera Raw, or inside of Lightroom, and then adjust the threshold for purple and green. All of these can be controlled under the lens correction tab. Simply choose Remove Chromatic Aberration, and then adjust the amount. As we bring in that green slider, look at that green edge, it's just absolutely removed. Same thing with the pinkish edge on the left there, right through here.
Note, turning on Chromatic Aberration, did a fantastic job of removing that. That looks really good. And, across the board here, I think we nailed it. Let's Select All those images and click Synchronize. And, I'll tell it to sync everything, although there was no Cropping or Spot Removal, so, no need there. Click Okay and then we're going to save these images. And I just want to write these out. You can use JPEG or TIFF, it doesn't matter, but we're going to take these images that are processed from Photoshop and do one more pass inside of Photomatix.
Click Save to write the files. And when you're all set, just click Done.
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- Staging the camera
- Controlling the camera with an intervalometer or smartphone
- Choosing the right interval for HDR
- Shooting JPEG or RAW
- Building a HDR test sequence
- Developing HDR images
- Organizing, assembling, and evaluating the shot in post