Join Ben Long for an in-depth discussion in this video Continuous mode, part of Shooting with the Nikon D7000.
Henri Cartier-Bresson spoke extensively about the decisive moment. That one particular moment that happens that is the perfect decisive expression of whatever scene or event you are shooting. Because he was a genius he was often able to fire his camera at that perfect decisive moment. For the rest of us there's continuous mode. In continuous mode as you hold down the shutter button, the camera will continue to snap frames one after another. Continuous mode is a great tool for shooting and fast-moving environment, sports, street shooting, nature shots.
But it can also be ideal for portraiture. When a person's face is making lots of tiny subtle changes and you're not sure which is the ideal expression. However, you cannot use continuous mode indefinitely. That is, you can't just hold down the button and expect the camera to always keep shooting. When you take a picture, the camera has to move a lot of data around and do a lot of computation. You can take pictures faster than your camera can get them written into the media card. So your camera has a memory buffer that can hold a certain number of pictures. As you shoot your images can be quickly thrown into that buffer, then the camera can start the process of copying images from the buffer to the memory card while you continue to snap away.
If the buffer fills, then your camera will cease to be able to take pictures and you'll have to wait for it to empty out before you can start shooting again. Continuous mode is what's known as a release mode. Normally, I'm in Single Shot Release mode. In other words, when I release the shutter I take a single shot. But if I press down the lock button and turn this dial. This is not the mode dial. It's a ring that surrounds the mode dial, I have some other options, C is continuous. And if you notice, I have two those CL and CH that's Continuous Low and Continuous High.
In Continuous Low mode I can shoot from one to five frames per second. That's configurable and you'll learn how later in this course. In Continuous High mode, I can shoot up to six frames per second. In continuous mode as long as I hold down the shutter button, the camera will just keep firing. And as you could see in Continuous High mode it fires very quickly. Now it will keep doing that until I run out of space on the card or until the camera's internal buffer fills up. Now in your viewfinder over on the right side there's a number that normally shows how many shots you have remaining.
But when I'm pressing the shutter button down that changes to a lowercase R and a two digit number that shows how much space there is in my buffer. As I rattle off shots that remaining number goes down. You can also see it up here. watch this I've got 250 odd shots remaining right now. That number is changing because it's still writing out data to the card. And as I push and hold the button, see now I've got 18 shots left in the buffer. As I go that number goes down. When it gets to zero, continuous shooting stops and now it's slowing down because it's only able to shoot as buffer space fills up.
Now it should have filled up a little bit, I can rattle off four shots before it slows down. So if you are really needing to shoot a lot you're going to need to manage your buffer space. I can't really think of very many situations where you need to shoot more than 27 pictures in a row like I just did though. So, rather than worrying about trying to manage your buffer space too much, try to get more intelligent about when you press that shutter button. Try and anticipate action even when you're in continuous mode. Don't push it down until you are pretty close to the moment that you want to capture and then burst through that moment and let go.
So why do I have two speeds, why would I not want to always shoot at the highest speed possible. Well, sometimes the action in my scene may not be changing very quickly. This is particular true shooting portraits. Continuous mode is a great tool for shooting portraits. Because sometimes there can be very subtle changes in facial expression and they can be hard to predict, which makes it difficult to get them when shooting in single shot mode. But if I change to a continuous mode, I stand a better chance of getting just a subtle change that I like. Facial expression may not be changing that quickly though.
So sometimes switching down to the slower Continuous Low mode is a better way to go. This can also be true even for shooting some kind of action scene that's maybe just not changing too quickly.
- What is an SLR?
- Attaching a lens to a camera
- Deciding how many batteries and media cards are needed
- Setting Auto mode
- Changing ISO
- Changing image format and size
- Manually selecting a focus point
- Correcting exposure while shooting
- Controlling white balance
- Using a driver and self-timer
- Auto exposure bracketing
- Selecting a picture style
- Using Live View
- Shooting video
- Using custom functions, such as ISO expansion and mirror lockup
- Cleaning the camera and sensor
Skill Level Beginner
1. Getting to Know Your Nikon SLR
2. Shooting in Auto Mode
3. Shooting in Program Mode
4. Controlling Autofocus
5. Controlling White Balance
Using white balance presets2m 11s
6. Understanding Release Modes
7. Using the Exposure Control Options
8. More Playback Options
9. Shooting with Scene Modes
10. Shooting with Flash
11. Shooting with Picture Styles
12. Using Live View
13. Shooting Video
14. Customizing Menus and Modes
15. Using Custom Settings
16. Retouching Images
17. Caring for Your Camera
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