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- Leveling photographs with Upright
- Applying more flexible and precise retouching
- Using the Radial filter in your workflow
- Generating Smart Previews
- Building photo books
- Creating a slideshow with both still images and video
- Dragging photos to saved map location
- Using tethered capture shortcuts
Skill Level Intermediate
Now that we're starting to develop a good working understanding of how we can use Upright, what I want to do here is take a look at how we can use Upright in a few difficult situations. I think by doing this, it will give you some insight into how you can use Upright in difficult or in easy situations. We'll start off with this photograph here. You know in this picture, I set a number of photography books up on a critique rack in a classroom and I set them there in order to provide some inspiration for some students.
Yet, I captured this image at an odd angle, therefore there's a lot of distortion and everything is just off. Let's take a look at how we can correct the perspective and let's do that using Upright. Here we'll navigate to the Lens Corrections panel. Next, we'll take our first step, which is to Enable Profile Corrections, now that removed a little bit of distortion there. Next, we want to constrain the crop and then we want to choose the appropriate option. Previously, I've mentioned that typically Auto works well, so here I'll go ahead and click on Auto.
Yet in doing that, it didn't do very much for me. If we click on our toggle switch here, you can see there's before and then here's after. It didn't really correct all of these lines, which are sort of off in this image. What I need to do is to take things even further. One way that we can do that is by using Full and what Full allows us to do is to not only correct perspective, but it also applies a full 3D transformation of the image. Let me show you what I mean. Here in this case when I click Full, all of a sudden it corrected everything.
If I turn Constrain Crop back on, what we'll see is that it brought this in just right to this area. Now if the crop ever isn't exactly what you need, like in this image, it cropped off too much of the left-hand side of the photograph, what you can do is press the R key, which is the shortcut key for the Crop tool. Then you can re-crop the image. In this way, what I want to do is just bring down this corner point and then I'll click and drag this over so that I can see more of that bookshelf. In other words, I'm re-centering the area that I'm cropping or I should say I'm re-centering the photograph so I can see more of the book case.
Next, press Enter or Return to apply that. The reason why I wanted to highlight that was because as it made this full adjustment, it really corrected the image in phenomenal ways. Take a look at the before and after. Here I'll press the shortcut key to view the before and after, it's the Backslash key (\). Here is before and then now here is after. In certain situations where you really need to make a dramatic perspective change sometimes using the Upright option of Full can really help out.
In other situations perhaps where the corrections are maybe a bit more subtle or typical, well in those cases, I found that Auto will work best. All right, well let's take a look at another image. I'll go ahead and click on this photograph here. This is a picture that I captured of one of my neighbors homes and this particular neighbor really likes to decorate for the holidays. I captured this image with a fisheye lens so there is a lot of distortion. Let's say that a client has seen this image and they like it, but they want less distortion.
They want it to be cropped in and they just want some of that distortion to be removed. We open the image up in Lightroom, we jump to Lens Corrections and we get excited about correcting the distortion and in order to do that, we click on Auto. Yet when we click on Auto, all of a sudden we realize, gosh, the image actually looks worse. If we look at the before and after, here's before and then now here's after. I think well, this is a difficult image, why don't we use Full. So we click on Full. That didn't do very much. Why is it? Those two options didn't work because we forgot that important first step.
Remember the first step when working with Upright? It's to click on this option here to Enable Profile Corrections. What you what to do is click on that option and then I'll go ahead and click off so this is just back to normal and you can see that the profile corrections, they helped out quite a bit. Next, what I need to do is simply click on Auto. In doing that, Lightroom has done a decent job at correcting this, but really, I need to allow Lightroom to reanalyze the photograph because I have made too many adjustments in a row.
So here I'll click on Reanalyze and what that will do is it will really finish this image off. Now this is giving me the correction that I needed. And this correction, it's pretty phenomenal. Here if we look at the before and after; here's before and then now here is after. So the whole point of showing you this image is that even in these exaggerated situations where I have fisheye distortion, we can make some powerful Upright corrections, yet we need to make sure that we take that initial step, and then try out an option and then if needed, click on that Reanalyze button in order to finish things off.
All right, before we wrap up our conversation about Upright, I want to click on one more image and talk about how we can use it in a situation like this. We have this photograph that I captured early in the morning of a local fisherman. In this case, I have Enable Profile Corrections turned on. What I'm going to do is click Auto. Here you can see that Auto works extremely well. All of a sudden all of my lines are straight. I like how the pier is relatively straight here, the boat, all of these details look good.
Here is our before and then now here is our after. With an image like this, you might be tempted to think, well I'm going to use Full because this is a complicated photograph. Yet, if we click on Full with this photograph, all of a sudden we see that it did indeed make some corrections; in this case, it applied some 3D corrections, yet I don't think they look better. Here's the difference, here's Auto and then here's Full. So as you can here with this image, really Auto, I think, looks better.
I wanted to include this image in order to illustrate the point that as you're working with Upright, there isn't going to be one solution that works in all places for all photographs. Rather, it's helpful to have a good working understanding of all of these different controls, so that you can determine how to use these controls in order to achieve the best results.