Join Steve Caplin for an in-depth discussion in this video Applying standard filters, part of Affinity Photo Essential Training.
- Here's an old carpenter's workshop I photographed recently, and we're going to use Affinity Photo's filters to make this a more dramatic image. Affinity Photo has a number of filters that apply directly to the image, and you'll find these under the filter menu. These include blur filters, which allow you to add motion blur, radial blur, and other kinds of blur to your image. We'll look at some of these later on. There are sharpen filters that make the image more crisp. And there are various distortion filters (mumbles) perspective, twirl, and so on.
I'll show you how it works with the spherical filter. When you bring it up, you don't see anything, and that's because the intensity is set to 0. If you drag this up to say 100 percent, right in the middle there, that is where the filter's taken place. We can increase the radius of this circle, and as we do so, you can see, as you'd expect, it gets bigger. You can pick this up and move it around wherever you like on the image, and the effect is as if you're looking through a crystal ball.
This kind of filter would also be very good, for example, for placing on top of a map, and you can turn it into a globe. With the filters you find under the filter menu, however, you have the choice of either cancelling or applying. If I apply this filter, it's going to burn this into our layer. We won't be able to change our mind later. For now, I'm going to cancel it. Because it's always useful to be able to get back to your original, before applying any of the permanent filters, I recommend you go to the layer menu and choose duplicate, or use the shortcut Command J.
And there is the copy of this layer. Now, you can apply whatever filters you like to this one knowing that the original is in tact underneath it. Let's go back to the filter menu, and see what else is there. Under the noise menu, we can add or reduce the amount of noise in an image. This is an interesting one; perlin noise is the equivalent of what Photoshop calls the clouds filter. The difference being it is far more versatile than Photoshop's built in filter.
We can drag the octaves slider to make this more or less smooth. Here's a good feature; we can drag the zoom to zoom in and out of it, so we can come in very close or we can push it further away with a much smaller effect. In Photoshop, by comparison, this filter only comes out at one size. There's also the persistence slider, and what this does, is to make it more or less detailed, and if we push it up to the right hand side, you can see it gets very, very highly detailed.
Once again, you would apply this to burn it into this image. We're going to cancel. Among the other filters are filters for adjusting color, for detecting edges, and we'll look at these later. And some like lighting, and shadows and highlights, that have very impressive and very specific results. The problem with these filters, as I've said, is that once you apply them, you cannot change your mind later. Some of these filters, though, also appear as live filters, and we'll look at those next.
- Using Affinity Photo's raw controls
- Applying lens correction
- Removing chromatic aberration and fringing
- Reducing noise and sharpening photos
- Making and modifying selections in Affinity Photo
- Creating layer masks
- Making global adjustments
- Adjusting shadows and highlights
- Enhancing color
- Converting to black and white
- Applying standard and live filters
- Creating photomontages in Affinity Photo
- Working with image stacks
- Distorting images
- Exporting photos from Affinity Photo
Skill Level Beginner
1. Using the Raw Controls
2. Using Selection Tools
3. Advanced Selection Tools
4. Using Adjustments
5. Working with Filters
6. Creating Photomontages
7. Distortion and Special Effects
Distorting with Mesh Warp2m 18s
8. Text and Graphics
9. Exporting Images
Using the Export Persona2m 37s
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