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Light and Texture for Product Visualization in modo

Light and Texture for Product Visualization in modo

with Ellery Connell

 


This course will help you build the skills you need to create stunning product visualizations in modo. Learn how to work with materials, textures, UV maps, lights, and environments, as well as how to create clean and professional finished renders.
Topics include:
  • UV mapping
  • Working with texture layers
  • Texture layer blending
  • Instancing layers
  • Using multilayered materials
  • Polygonal lighting
  • Creating painted environments
  • Rendering and render settings

show more

author
Ellery Connell
subject
3D + Animation, Rendering, Materials, Product Design, Lighting, video2brain
software
modo 601
level
Intermediate
duration
4h 7m
released
Jul 12, 2013

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Introduction
Welcome
00:00 (MUSIC). Hi, I'm Ellery Connell.
00:05 Author, designer, and educator. I have nearly 20 years of experience
00:09 creating 3D for print, web, visualization, visual effects, and game design.
00:14 I've taught seminars, webinars, training videos, and university level courses in 3D
00:18 modeling, animation, and visual effects. And I'm author of the book, 3D for Graphic Designers.
00:24 Over the years, I found that many of my best clients have been excellent designers
00:27 that don't have the 3D skills necessary to complete portions of their projects that
00:31 require 3D skill set. This opens up a great market for both 3D
00:36 artists looking for a marketable use for their skills, as well as graphic designers
00:39 and artists that are looking for a leg up on their competition.
00:44 This series will help you to enhance your skills, to create stunning visualizations.
00:49 We'll cover the creation of materials and textures, UV maps, lights, environments,
00:53 as well as options for finished rendering. After watching this course and practicing
00:58 the techniques demonstrated, you'll be ready to create clean and professional
01:01 product visualization renders. These skills will allow you to take simple
01:06 or complex models and turn them into complete and compelling 3D scenes.
01:10 I hope that you enjoy this training let's get started.
01:12
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1. Overview
Applications used in this course
00:02 In this video, we'll have a look at the applications used for this 3D training series.
00:06 Now, we'll be using two main applications. One will be a 3D application, which is
00:11 Luxology Modo, and that will be used for creation of your 3D scenes, applying 3D
00:15 textures, building lights, environments and other things necessary to create a
00:18 completed 3D scene ready for rendering. And the other application that you'll need
00:25 is Adobe Photoshop or another 2D image editing application.
00:30 Now, this course won't cover specific uses of Photoshop directly, but we'll use some
00:35 common techniques to create good, effective 3D textures.
00:40 You can use any other 2D image editing application, but you should make sure that
00:44 you have control over paths and channels for your individual images.
00:49 In this case, I can see that I have control over my red, green and blue
00:52 channels, and I can use those to create good, effective 3D textures.
00:58 You'll need all of these in order to get the best use out of your textures, and
01:01 create things that will import seamlessly and be very useful in creating the
01:05 textures on your 3D models, and in your 3D scenes.
01:11 So, with an image editor that you're comfortable with, either Photoshop or
01:15 another, and luxology modo, you're ready to go to start creating good quality 3D
01:18 renderings for your product visualization needs.
01:22
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Using the included files
00:02 In this video, we'll have a quick look at some of the included content that we use
00:05 in this video. There are three types of content that are
00:08 included with this series. There are model files and scene files,
00:12 which give you completed objects, or completed scenes for use in this video.
00:21 That way you can hit the ground running and not have to start modeling from
00:24 scratch in order to create something to texture, light and render.
00:28 You'll also receive some images, that can be used.
00:36 These images will give you a good head start if you don't have your own existing
00:39 logos, or other things that you'd like to use in your visualization scenes.
00:44 These will also be the starting points for creating some more advanced textures.
00:48 In addition to the images and models, you will also receive scene files that are
00:51 progressively saved throughout the course of the training series.
00:55 That way if you'd like to jump in at the beginning of any individual lesson, you
00:58 don't necessarily have to work all you way up to it.
01:01 You can grab the scene file that starts with that video and you're ready to go.
01:05 So, with these three types of included content, you should be able to move very
01:08 quickly through this, or as slowly as you'd like.
01:12 You can use this content entirely, or you can come up with completely new models and
01:16 images to create your product and visualization renders.
01:20
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2. UV Mapping
UV mapping overview
00:02 In this video, we'll have a general look at UV maps and what they can do to
00:05 increase the power of our 3D texturing pipeline.
00:10 So, if we take a look at this 3D model that's here, and if you'd like to follow
00:13 along, you can open up the can model lxo file.
00:18 I have two layers here the can and then the tab on the can and if I want to apply
00:22 a texture to this like an image map. Let's just start here by going and
00:28 grabbing an image and dropping it on. Can get a look at that image and see that its.
00:32 Just the Luxology logo with some color tags on it.
00:36 But if I drop that onto my object, right away we see that nothing happens.
00:41 So let's just over to the render tab and have a look at what's going on here.
00:48 So let's just grab an image. And toss it onto this object.
00:51 And you can see right here that nothing happens because I don't have an individual
00:55 material tag set on here yet. So I'm going to go to Polygons, select
00:59 this object here, press M and we'll call it can.
01:02 And then I'm going to take this and drag and drop it right onto that can.
01:07 You can see that the tab doesn't get changed at all in color, but the can
01:11 itself now has taken on the background color of this image.
01:16 Now, the image, if you look is just the Luxology logo with the color tags on it
01:20 for the color swatches, but we don't see that logo appear anywhere on here.
01:26 That's because by default modo is going to be looking for a UV map in order to put
01:30 that image onto the can. So let's jump over to the render tab and
01:34 we can see what's going on here. If we open up the shader tree and look, we
01:38 have a can material and then we have our luxology image right in there.
01:44 If I go to the texture locator, you can see that my projection type for my texture
01:48 is set to UV map. And that the UV map is set to texture.
01:52 So let's follow the bread crumb along to the U-V tab And go to lists where we can
01:55 find our UVs. And we can see here is our UV texture.
01:59 And when we select it, lo and behold, nothing appears.
02:02 That's because this has an empty UV map. There aren't any polygons in this UV that
02:07 are showing this image where to go on the model.
02:10 Now a UV map is essentially a two dimensional representation of a 3D object.
02:16 So if there are no polygons in this UV map.
02:18 Nothing is going to represent this 3D model in 2D space.
02:22 So there's no way for this image to properly apply to the can.
02:25 You have a couple of options for dealing with this.
02:28 Let's go to the Texture Locator and look. We can simply change the projection type
02:34 to something like Cylindrical. Let's put that on the y so it's going up
02:38 and down. You can see here we have it but it's
02:40 tiling pretty badly because the size is set to one meter by one meter by one meter.
02:45 And this is actually a really large can at this point.
02:49 So if I just click auto-size it's going to create a cylinder.
02:53 You can see this cylinder here. This represents the cylinder where our
02:56 image is being wrapped around. You can see it wraps all around the can.
03:00 And this is something that we can edit. I can take this texture locator and I can
03:04 change the scale and you can see that that changes there.
03:07 I can also change the x and the z size and that will change how much it wraps around
03:12 the can. I can also even go in with my Scale tools
03:15 on that object and scale the actual object because textual locators are items that
03:19 can be scaled and moved around at will. I could also just go to my Move tool and
03:25 move it around as well. But the problem with this is that we get
03:29 very little precise control over where everything is actually mapped.
03:34 And on something like a cylinder that might not be too much of an issue but.
03:38 When you get into more complex 3D objects, that can become something that's a really
03:41 difficult thing to deal with in order to create good 3D textures.
03:46 So, the way to deal with this is to create a UV map, which will take all the polygons
03:50 that we want to use in this texture. Represent them here in 2D space.
03:56 Then, when a 2D image is applied, every point along this grid space from 0 to 1 vertically.
04:03 And from 0 to 1 horizontally. Or V for vertical U for horizontal will be
04:08 mapped to a pixel in the 2D image. If the image is not a perfect square, it
04:14 will simply be stretched to fit the UV space.
04:18 So rectangular image will be stretched vertically in order to fit this space.
04:22 And that's something that you'll want to pay attention to as we start to build
04:26 actual UV maps. So, with good UV maps created, they can be
04:30 used for a number of things. Creating placement for your
04:35 two-dimensional textures. They can also be used for painting
04:39 surfaces with images directly onto the 3D model.
04:43 They can also be used for baking and creating flattened images for any number
04:47 of possible 3D channels. And that can be the image color.
04:52 That can be the specular and reflective amounts.
04:54 That can be transparency and anything else that you might want to include on your 3D Model.
04:59 So, UV maps are an essential and critical part to creating good product
05:03 visualization renders. Oftentimes it's a part of the workflow
05:07 that gets ignored because it can be a little tedious at first.
05:11 But once you learn how to manipulate your UV maps properly.
05:14 You'll be well on your way to creating good, quality renders.
05:17 In moto.
05:18
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Creating new UV maps
00:02 In this video, we'll have an introductory look at the creation of UV maps inside of Moto.
00:06 And some of the main tools that are used for starting to create your UV maps.
00:11 Now, if you'd like to follow along, you can open up the can model LXO file.
00:15 And this is where we'll be starting for creating a UV map for this soda can.
00:20 So, the first task when you're creating a UV map is going to be looking for where
00:25 you'll want seams to lie. If you think about a UV map, like,
00:29 something like a bear-skin rug, you're not going to make a rug out of a bear without
00:33 having to make a few cuts. So the same thing happens with creating UV maps.
00:39 If I want to take this and flatten it out into 2D space.
00:43 I'm going to have to make some compromises on the continuity of the surface.
00:46 So, the best thing to do is to find areas where those cuts will either be able to be
00:50 covered very easily and seamlessly, or make them in places that will be difficult
00:55 to see based on the camera angles that you will using for your finished renderings.
01:03 So I'm going to start by creating UVs for the top and bottom of this can.
01:09 And I'm going to go ahead, and, at first hide the tab, so it's out of our way.
01:12 And then we can see just the top of the can very clearly.
01:16 Without anything else encumbering our view.
01:18 So let's start with the bottom. Because that's going to be the simplest.
01:22 Piece to do here. I'm just going to select the middle polygon.
01:25 And press Shift and the up arrow until I get all the way out to this edge.
01:29 And this is where I'm going to create my scene.
01:31 Now, depending on how you create your texture, you might want to move that seam
01:34 up a little bit. Or you may want to tuck it down in a
01:37 little farther. If for example you're going to be creating
01:40 a label that goes down to say this polygon ring right here and not below and then the
01:44 under part will be just a basic aluminum color.
01:49 You may want to move your polygon selection all the way up to here and that
01:52 way you can create a scene there and it's also going to give you a nice crisp edge
01:55 for where your label ends. In this case I'm going to leave it down
01:59 here so that I have the extra space to use in case I want to have some kind of texture.
02:04 Down in there. Now, the first basic tool that you use for
02:07 creating UVs is the projection tool. And that's over here on the left in our UV tab.
02:13 You can see that the UV projection tool has a number of options that come up here
02:16 in the bottom left. Now, the projection type, by default,
02:19 should be plainer. And, that's going to just take a view from
02:23 a particular angle. Say from the bottom and then its going to
02:28 create a UV just straight through there. And actually this takes it from just
02:33 positive angles, so really its going to be creating this view through the top.
02:37 And that's important to remember, if you are projecting through to the bottom side
02:40 of something, because we're actually going to be looking at the underside.
02:44 Now if you don't have anything with text or anything that needs to line up exactly.
02:47 You can leave it that way, but just know that this UV is actually going to be
02:50 flipped when we create it. So let's create UV Projection Tool >
02:54 Planar on the Y, and then I'm just going to go ahead and click in UV space,
02:57 and that will create my UV. And see, as I select here, that I am
03:01 selecting straight through on the right side.
03:04 Just as if I were on the top side looking through.
03:08 If I change to the bottom side to make selections, you'll see that it is inverted
03:12 based on this projection. Again, if this is something similar, you
03:17 probably will never have to worry about it.
03:19 Now, if I want to continue moving on, let's go back to my perspective view.
03:23 If I want to continue moving on, I have a couple of options.
03:26 I can either hide this section, and then keep moving.
03:29 Or I can take it and just move it out of the way in UV space and just put it over here.
03:35 All of these other grid spaces in the UV down to the negative one in each direction
03:40 will receive a tiled version of whatever is placed image-wise in this part.
03:47 So if I move a uv selection over negative one in the u, it's going to put it over here.
03:52 But then if I apply a texture, it's actually going to receive the same texture
03:54 if it were right here. So for me, I like to move things out of
03:57 the way and create one, big UV that has everything in it at first.
04:01 And then go on from there when I start organizing my uv So if I want to move on,
04:07 I can simply go to the top. I'm going to select a couple of polygons
04:13 and press L to get that loop. And then I'm just going to press Shift and
04:17 the Close Bracket key and that will select everything inside of that selection.
04:23 Now I can use Shift and the Up Arrow key to select the entire rim.
04:28 And I want to select this rim all the way up to where it overlaps here.
04:33 And I'm just going to to go right there so I get a nice crisp edge there and anything
04:37 that would tuck underneath will be part of the rest of the can.
04:42 So I'm going to do the same thing here. Go to the UV Projection Tool > Planar on
04:46 the Y and click. Now this one will actually give us one
04:50 slight problem. And that is the fact that.
04:55 All of these polygons right through here will be taking up little to no space in UV space.
05:00 And see that this polygon here has a little bit of depth.
05:03 But this one and this one actually get nothing.
05:06 So we'll want to correct for that in our UV map.
05:10 So what I'm going to do is double-click on the UV.
05:13 Then press Shift and the Down arrow once. And then I'm going to use my Scale tool to
05:20 scale this in slightly. Just so that I give this a little bit of
05:24 UV space. It doesn't need to be a lot, because this
05:26 is a very small area. Press Shift and the Down arrow again, and
05:30 I'm going to scale this down again. And then Shift to the down arrow, and then
05:35 we can see we probably have everything that we need here.
05:37 So, if I select through here you can see that all three of these polygons are well represented.
05:43 If I want I can simply go and deselect here one more level and then scale this in
05:48 just a little bit more to kind of even out that UV.
05:55 But that way I've dealt with this overlap and I have the same problem actually
05:59 probably right through here. You can see that these get a little bit of
06:03 UV space but might need a little bit more. So if you need to relax your UVs' a little
06:07 bit this is a good way of starting to do it.
06:10 Cause it will allow you take any overlap sections and create some good UV space for
06:15 them So theres that one. I'm going to take that one, turn on the
06:20 move tool and just drag this down into the next available space and drop my tool.
06:28 Now I'm ready to do the center selection here.
06:33 If I select both the UVs that I've already created, those islands, I can just press
06:36 the Open Bracket key. On the keyboard and that will invert my
06:40 selection and give me the rest of the can that hasn't been UV'd yet.
06:45 Now when moving onto a section like this you have a couple of options.
06:48 We can use the UV projection tool and set it to 'cylindrical'.
06:52 And then click and it's going to create a complete full UV, it fills this whole zero
06:57 to one quadrant and stretches everything out evenly.
07:02 Now this may or may not be the best UV for creating a texture for this can.
07:08 The reason for that is that we have a definite taper in the can right up through here.
07:13 In this section that is not reflected at all in the UV.
07:17 If you want to create something seamless that goes from left to right this will be
07:20 good because when you get to the right hand side of this, and have anything that
07:23 overlaps over the edge it will wrap simply right around onto the other edge of the can.
07:29 And then you won't have any problems with this.
07:33 Another way to deal with this is going to be the unwrap tool which in some ways is
07:36 going to work very similarly to the UV projection tool but give you some more options.
07:41 So I'm going to select these polygons, go to the unwrap tool, and if I set my
07:44 initial projection on the cylindrical on the y.
07:47 I want to make sure that I turn off seal holes.
07:50 That's going to be the top and the bottom and if I click here, we'll notice right
07:53 away that something bad is going to happen so I'll go head and do it so you can see.
07:58 Yikes, now the problem here is that it has tried to create a, a cylindrical UV
08:01 without any slices so its like trying to create that bearskin rug without cutting
08:06 it at all. Now there is an easy way around this.
08:12 I'm going to go ahead and press Shift + H to hide everything in my viewport except
08:15 for my current selection. Now I'm going to go to my edge mode.
08:20 Double click on a single edge here. In this case I'm going to get the one
08:24 that's running right down the back of the can.
08:27 And now I'm going to go ahead and run the unwrap tool again.
08:30 I'll leave all the other settings the same and click.
08:33 And now you can see that this is now stretched this out and it's created a seam
08:36 along the can. Where I have that selection made.
08:41 If I create more selections of something like this, I can use the unwrap tool and
08:44 it will create multiple islands based off of those selections.
08:51 For now, I'm just going to use that single loop.
08:53 Now, there are two issues that we have with this Unwrap tool.
08:59 With something very straight and cylindrical like this example I may have
09:02 some problems with the actual orientation of this.
09:05 So, in this case, it's going to give me something that's tilted because it's
09:09 trying to fill up the space as best as it can.
09:12 I can pretty easily go ahead and rotate this.
09:15 Or I can use the orient pieces tool. Set it to Auto and click OK.
09:22 But you can see that I still have some wavy lines going through here.
09:26 Now these can be corrected just by selecting them.
09:32 Pressing the L key, and then I'll need to deselect the very ends, which will be
09:37 right there. And then on the other side, which is right
09:46 over here. And now I can simply use my Scale tool and
09:52 I want to flatten all this out, so I'm going to set my Action Center to Local,
09:56 then I'm going to Axis to Auto. So it will position the tool at every
10:02 individual edge loop, but it will orient it up and down, left and right with the world.
10:06 So if I flatten these out and set my, turn off my negative scale, we can flatten
10:10 these out. And now I can invert my selection again
10:15 and do the same thing horizontally. You can see that I have corrected this.
10:21 Now the one problem that I have is by making this second correction, I've
10:24 actually flattened out that natural curvature that I had.
10:29 So you may need to make a few more adjustments, in order to get this exactly
10:32 how you want it. But in the case of something a little bit
10:36 more organic, this might be a good way to go.
10:38 For now, I'm actually going to go back to the UV Projection tool.
10:42 Set it to cylindrical and go ahead and click.
10:44 Because, in this case, I don't think that I'm going to need anything much different
10:47 than that nice, flat, even UV. Because, for the most part, in this whole
10:52 midsection this is giving me exactly what I need: flat, even polygons that are well
10:56 distributed throughout UV space. But by learning the basics, you can really
11:01 unwrap the majority of your UV models, just by breaking them into individual
11:05 chunks and using the Projection and the Unwrap Tools.
11:09
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Editing existing UV maps
00:02 Many times you'll want to deal with UV maps that have either been created automatically.
00:06 So autogenerated UV maps that come with a lot of primitives and other shapes that
00:10 you build in Modo or you'll have a UV map that you've created previously and
00:13 you'want to be able to edit it and adjust it to either make it better, or make it
00:16 suit your needs for whatever your current project is.
00:21 So in this video, we're going to look at how to edit existing UV maps.
00:25 We'll look at editing a primitive map. And also editing a UV map for something
00:29 we've already built. If youd like to follow along with this can
00:32 model, you can open up the Can_Model_UV1.lxo file from the content
00:36 and you'll be right here with the UV map created for the body of the can, the
00:39 bottom, and the top lid. So let's jump right into this model, and
00:48 we can see how to correct some of the issues that are created by creating a
00:51 strictly cylindrical UV, which fills the UV space entirely.
00:55 So I'm going to double-click on this section here to isolate it, press Shift+H
00:58 to hide everything else, then we'll just be dealing with this section right here.
01:05 If you look at this model, you can see that the middle of the can has relatively
01:09 uniform spacing. And as we continue to expand up one more
01:13 polygon loop on top and bottom, you can see that also we have good uniform spacing.
01:20 And even on this next one, everything is relatively even.
01:26 But when we move on to the next couple of polygon loops, the can starts to taper in.
01:31 So we should have a slight decrease in width for each of these subsequent rows.
01:37 Now, if you want to take this into account directly, you can do it just by scaling.
01:41 So, what I can do, is go to edge mode or polygon mode.
01:47 It really doesn't matter here. We can do it in polygon mode.
01:49 And I'm going to loop select all of this, and then I'm just going to use my Scale tool.
01:55 Scale down just a little bit. And then I'm going to deselect, holding
02:00 the Control key. This next section, scale again.
02:03 Deselect this section. (SOUND) Scale again.
02:11 Again, these are very slight corrections. And then, finally, with the top section
02:16 you'll have to use either vertices or edges because you can't select an entire
02:19 poly loop to do this job. Now, we'll select and just scale it in a
02:23 little bit more. Okay.
02:25 So, then, we've kind of taken into account this taper.
02:30 Now, you can also do this same kind of thing with a falloff.
02:32 So I'm going to select this bottom loop, Shift+Up Arrow once and twice to get to
02:37 this section here. And now, I'm going to go to Falloff >
02:42 Linear, and then I'm just going to click and drag out this falloff.
02:48 And you can see right now it's set to have some symmetry.
02:54 So I'm going to turn that to None. And you can also see, if I zoom in here,
02:58 that right now it's going to scale 100% at the top and 0% at the bottom.
03:04 which is actually the inverse of what I want, so we can go ahead and reverse that.
03:08 And then also, this is going to scale linear here and you can see that this a
03:12 bit of an S-curve. So, I'm going to change my Shape Preset to Smooth.
03:16 And though it's going to be a subtle difference, that's important to take that
03:20 into account. Now, the other thing that I'll want to do
03:24 is look at my U which is my left to right. Right now I'm at 515 mm in both Start and End.
03:31 And I want this to be completely straight up and down, so I'll just move those both
03:35 to 515. And now I can turn on my Scale tool.
03:38 And when I scale, I'll get that little bit of an S-curve taken into account.
03:43 And I could've done the same thing on the top.
03:45 I just want you to be able to see both ways of doing that.
03:47 And now I've got a UV map that kind of takes into account the taper of the can.
03:52 With simple editing using all of your typical transform tools, scale, rotate and
03:57 move, you can easily get your UV maps exactly how you want them.
04:02 And you also can use falloffs, so you can more precisely edit your UV's.
04:08 And, if you come with something a bit more organic where you need a little bit more
04:11 fluid editing of the UV, you can use the UV sculpt tools.
04:15 You can smooth, smudge, move, tangent pinch.
04:18 Any of the tools that you'd use on normal polygon sculpting, you can use directly on
04:22 your UV's. So if, for example, I wanted to smooth
04:25 this out, you can see the smooth effect. Works as it pulls the polygons together to
04:31 make them more uniform and more even. We don't want that in this case but that
04:35 is there if you're dealing with good organic UV's.
04:38 So, there we go. Now we've got a little bit more correct
04:41 can shape. Once again, if you are dealing with
04:44 something where you want this to tile directly left to right, this wouldn't be
04:47 the UV that you'd want. But it is a good option to have if you
04:51 need to take into account the taper. And by going to the Options and showing,
04:56 Show Distortion, you can see now the actual distortion on this.
05:01 Now, you'll notice that all of this is red right now.
05:03 And that's because I have two other pieces in here, which we can unhide.
05:07 And they're both going to show up as blue, and that's because this is all relative to
05:10 the entire object. Red polygons are receiving less relative
05:15 space in the UV as they would get in 3D space.
05:18 Blue polygons are receiving more space in the UV than they would in the 3D world
05:22 because you can see my top and my bottom are much larger relative to the can, as
05:26 they are here in 3D space. And then, when they reach kind of the
05:32 off-colored olivey, kind of like this section through here.
05:37 They're actually properly scaled relative to the other bits.
05:40 So, if you need to get good adjustment on these, and you want them to all be exact,
05:45 and you want them all to be kind of that grayish color.
05:50 But if you're dealing with parts where you have some things scaled properly and some
05:53 things scaled properly and some things not, then they will be relative to the
05:56 individual UV island, so relative this piece right here.
06:00 So you can see that this section right here is much stronger red, which means
06:05 that its receiving less space than it should.
06:09 So if I adjust one of my edge loops here, just using my Move tool, you can see that
06:13 it should start to even out. There we go, looks like moving that up
06:18 give myself a little bit more UV spaces fixing that.
06:21 But it's kind of compacting the piece underneath.
06:24 So I'm going to do is select this entire loop through here, and move that up.
06:33 And sometimes you'll need to adjust multiple loops in order to get just the
06:39 right kind of, adjustment. So let's move this whole thing out of here.
06:44 And with larger polygon loops like this one, you're going to have more wiggle room.
06:48 So, you can see just by moving those up a little bit, I'm decreasing the amount of red.
06:53 So I'm kind of fixing the distortion and this is now becoming a hair distorted but
06:56 the closer you get these to each other the better its going to look as far as being
07:00 realative to the actual scale of the object.
07:06 Now if you want a clear view of this still I'm just going to take this and copy it
07:09 make a new layer and paste it in. Now I'm just going to hide my can.
07:14 Now you can see that I've got. A more broad spectrum of colors, and I can
07:18 see that these polygons up here are getting more space, these polygons down
07:21 here are getting more space, and the rest are getting relatively even spacing.
07:28 And you can go in and make adjustments based off of this.
07:32 You can see if I pull it one way or the other.
07:34 That those colorations appear and you want to get less saturation in order to make
07:38 this more even. Alright, so that's how you would edit an
07:42 existing UV, there. I don't really need this in it's own extra
07:45 layer, so I'm just going to go ahead and right-click and delete that layer, and
07:47 then we'll just go back to our regular can model.
07:50 Now sometimes, Modo will auto generate UVs, so I'm going to make a new scene file.
07:57 Go over to the model quad view, and let's say you've taken the time to painstakingly
08:01 model this beautiful cube, and you want to put some textures on this as if it were a
08:05 product box. So I'm going to over to my UV tab, and you
08:10 can see that I have, indeed All of my polygon faces accounted for here in the UV.
08:16 However, there are a couple of problems with this.
08:19 First, they're all stretched vertically quite a bit.
08:22 Second, they are also giving equal importance to all the faces.
08:30 Now if I'm going to do this for a product shot, I'm probably going to want.
08:32 Maybe this face, this face, and maybe the two side faces here to have a lot of the texture.
08:40 And that's where I'm going to put all of my branding, my labels, and things like that.
08:43 On the back I might have some smaller things.
08:45 And on the bottom I'm going to hardly use that one at all.
08:48 So by using the UV space a little bit more effectively, I can actually get a better
08:52 usage of my space and I can give more importance to the faces that are going to
08:56 be used directly for my branding. So what I'm going to do here is I'm
09:02 going to start by selecting all of this, use my Scale tool and I'm going to set my
09:05 action center to the origin, so it's going to pull everything down this way,
09:08 and I'm going to scale everything down. To about 75% and that's going to give me a
09:15 nice even square shape for each of these. Because you can see that I have four
09:21 polygons going across and I only had three vertically, but those three vertically
09:25 were receiving as much vertical space as the four were saving horizontal space.
09:29 So scaling those down to 75% will correct for that.
09:33 Now the next thing I'm going to do is take this piece and detach it entirely because
09:36 I don't want it to be taking up this much UV space relative to the other pieces.
09:41 So, I'm going to use my Move tool and check tear off and that will allow me to
09:44 pull this polygon away. I'll set my action center back to automatic.
09:48 And there we go. I'm just going to move it off to the side
09:49 for right now. Now, I'm going to do the same thing with
09:52 the back face, so the face that's on the back of the box.
09:55 So I'm going to grab that, move it, and pull it over here.
09:57 Now, if I want, I could attach these two pieces at some point.
10:01 For right now, I'm just going to leave them free, and that way I'll have free
10:04 pieces that I can place wherever I need to in my UV space.
10:09 So the next thing I'm going to do is grab this whole section here.
10:12 And I'm just going to go to fit UVs, keep proportion and click OK.
10:18 And now it's going to scale those UVs up so they fit the whole UV space left to right.
10:24 Now if I want to get even better usage of the space, I could detach ones of these pieces.
10:29 And make it free-floating, but for now, this will do.
10:32 I'm just going to grab this and pull it down.
10:35 Doesn't really matter if it's exactly on the bottom of the UV space, in this case.
10:40 I know it's stretching exactly from left to right, so that's going to fill up all
10:42 my space there. And then I'm going to go ahead and grab
10:46 these two pieces, and move them up here And over here.
10:50 And then I've got a little bit better spacing for my UV.
10:56 Now, if you want to use an image that's not a square.
10:59 So, instead of, for example, 2048 by 2048, if you want to use an image that's 2048 by
11:04 only 1024 high, then you can take all of these pieces.
11:10 And I'm going to scale them down just a little bit here, and I'll just do it all
11:12 uniformly for now. And I'll take them so that they all fit
11:17 underneath this 0.5 line. And if you zoom in a little bit farther
11:22 you can more easily see okay here's 0.4, here's 0.6, there's the 0.5 line.
11:27 So if I scale everything down a little bit I can fit it into there exactly.
11:33 Now this might be another case where I might want to detach another polygon and
11:36 I'll just move that over here for right now.
11:39 And then I can again get a little bit better usage of my UV space.
11:48 So by adjusting your position and mainly your scale So that you're giving more
11:52 importance to the key pieces and less to the unimportant pieces or the pieces that
11:55 are going to carry less weight in texturing, rather.
12:00 You can more properly optimize your UV's. I often find that it's a good idea to have
12:06 one UV map where everything is included. So maybe we would take something like this
12:11 and use Pack UVs, we'll allow to orient and stretch and move everything around.
12:16 And then, it's going to use up all your spaces best as it can and keep everything even.
12:20 And then, another UV, where you have this importance given, so that as you go
12:24 through creating and painting your textures, you'll have everything taken
12:27 into account. But then when you go to (UNKNOWN) you can
12:31 have everything evenly placed... We'll be using UV's that are both evenly
12:37 spaced and space based off of importance as we continue to create textures.
12:44 So proper control of your UV's is very important, as you move on in the texturing
12:49 process for your product visualizations.
12:54
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Advanced UV mapping
00:02 When you create more complex models, you also have the need for creating more
00:05 complex UV maps. And in this video, we're going to have a
00:08 look at creating a UV map for something more complex, namely this helmet model
00:11 that's been sculpted and retopologized. So we're going to hop over here to the
00:16 model view and have a lot at what we've got.
00:19 So, there is a series of, kind of, inner rims running all around different sections
00:24 of the model here. So I'm going to go ahead and select these
00:28 and actually let's go ahead and turn on our Symmetry.
00:32 I'm just going to select a couple of polygons and press L to select the Loop,
00:35 and we'll just work our way around here. Basically what we're going to be doing
00:41 here is offsetting the different sections of this helmet model.
00:46 So that we can more easily create the UV map and more easily just kind of control
00:51 what we're working on. Because working on a UV map like this if
00:56 you try to bite it off all in one big chunk it just gets really out of hand
00:58 really quickly. And it makes it frustrating and difficult
01:03 to work on, so, we're going to break this down, so that it becomes a more manageable
01:07 model to UV map. Let's see if we have everything selected.
01:13 It looks like we've got a couple more open spaces here in the front, select those.
01:19 And now I believe we should have everywhere selected.
01:23 Okay, so I'm going to go ahead and assign a material to this.
01:28 I'll press M and I'll call this Ridges. It's going to be the inner kind of ridges
01:34 that will wrap around between everything else that's there.
01:38 One thing that I'm going to do here for right now, is I'm actually going to Cut
01:41 these out and then just Paste them back in.
01:44 And the reason that I'm doing that is so that I can more easily select the interior
01:47 and the exterior. So I'm going to press M, and we'll call
01:51 this, Interior. Mm, 'kay, and even if I want, I could go
01:55 over and use my lists here, go by Polygons, and sort these by Material.
02:02 And I'm going to go ahead and add the ridges to my selection.
02:05 And then press the open bracket key to invert my selection, and that will give me
02:09 the whole exterior which I will now press M and call exterior.
02:13 So in order of importance really, we want to give the exterior shell the most UV space.
02:21 This is going to be the area that's going to carry any graphics, any painting.
02:25 The inner section here that has these ribs is really just going to be kind of a tiled
02:28 texture, so we're not going to need a whole lot of UV space for that.
02:34 And then the interior part is probably just going to be kind of a solid color,
02:37 and so we're not going to worry about too much UV space.
02:41 We'll just kind of fit that in where we have space in the UVs.
02:45 So, with that said, let's hop over to the UV, and we will start with our ridges.
02:51 So what I'm going to do is double-click on the outside, and double click on the
02:55 inside, and press H to hide those. And now I've got all of these different
03:00 ridges in here ready to be UVed. And I'm going to use a really handy tool
03:05 for this, and that's called the UV Peeler. So, UV Peeler works this way.
03:09 If I go in here and select one edge, in this case I'm selecting the one right in
03:13 the middle of this forward section here. And I press UV Peeler and then click, it's
03:19 going to distribute this entire strip of polygons.
03:23 And if we look here, we can go ahead and start selecting it and see that it's just
03:26 selecting the entire thing, as long as I get in close enough to select it all.
03:31 You can see it's selecting all of that, and I've missed a couple of polygons going there.
03:35 So you see, if I go back over there a little closer in, you can see that.
03:39 Now, one thing of note here is that there are a few settings that can change the way
03:44 that you work with the UV Peeler. So, I again activate UV Peeler and click
03:50 in the View port, you see that I have kind of these little x's.
03:55 And I can take these to adjust the vertical amount of UV space that these are
03:58 taking, or the horizontal amounts. So, if I want to move this around and this
04:03 way, I can do that. Of, right now, I'm going to leave it
04:05 taking up the whole screen. We're going to end up giving at the top
04:09 section of the UV, when we layout everything together.
04:12 But for now, we're going to leave everything kind of overlapping inside of
04:14 UV space. I do have a few options here where I can
04:18 set the Maximum, Minimum UV's. It's not basically going to be the same as
04:23 moving these handles, but doing it on a little bit more controlled level.
04:27 You can see I get exact numeric placement of those.
04:30 I know if I want my Minimum vertical to be just right here towards the top of it, I
04:34 can move this all the way up to like something around, say, 0.75.
04:39 And then I know it's only taking up the quarter of this UV, so let's go ahead and
04:42 Undo that. And then some other options that I have
04:45 here is for uniformity. And this one you have to be a little bit
04:48 careful with, because it's going to straighten everything out.
04:52 And we'll put it right up to 100%, so that you can what's going on.
04:56 And it's just going to give me a really even, smooth layout of Polygons, and this
05:00 can be really really good. Mf you have even polygons around the
05:05 perimeter of your mesh, then this is going to work really well.
05:10 In some cases, however, you'll have big changes in polygon sizes.
05:13 So, for example, say, this polygon versus, smaller one, like that polygon.
05:19 You don't necessarily want them to take up the same amount of UV space.
05:23 in this case, I'm going to tile an image all the way around, so that won't really matter.
05:27 And in this case, I'm just going to go ahead and use this Uniform mode.
05:32 For some of the other smaller sections, I might not want to do that, but for this
05:35 case I'm going to just leave it as is. And what you can do here is go ahead and
05:39 double click on a section and press H to hide it.
05:43 And then I can just go on and move on through my UV space, so for this one, I'm
05:47 going to take just kind of a discrete little corner.
05:51 Just going to be right down here. And again, I'll run the Peeler, and click.
05:57 And it will keep my last settings, so, with that done I can just double-click on
06:02 that and press H. Except one thing to note here is that if
06:07 you run this on symmetrical polygons, it's going to do it only on the side that you
06:11 actually clicked on the edge. So, Something to be aware of, in this case
06:16 I only ran it on the left hand side. And when I go to select and hide this its
06:20 going to select the right-hand side as well.
06:23 So, I'm going to make sure that I turn symmetry off, and then I'm going to hold
06:26 Ctrl and I'm going to double-click on that.
06:29 And so then I can hide that one and move on.
06:32 That's all we're going to do here for this one.
06:34 We'll jump forward and you'll see those all completed up in the top corner here in
06:37 a moment, but lets go ahead and now Hide those.
06:40 And I'm going to Unhide everything. See we have our nice little UVs already
06:44 down here, and I'm going to take these and I am going to do as I mentioned and move
06:48 those up. we'll just give them about the top 30% or
06:52 so of this, and now I'm going to go ahead and work on the exterior shell.
06:57 So, I'm going to select that, press Shift+H to hide everything else, and now
07:01 I'm going to use the Unwrap Tool. And to get a good unwrap using the Unwrap Tool.
07:07 You'll want to think about separating your Mesh into kind of chunks that are facing
07:11 similar directions. You don't have to do it entirely that way.
07:16 There can be some wrap definitely on these, but you'll want to try and
07:19 compartmentalize that a bit in order to fit it in.
07:22 So I'm going to go up here and go to my Edges mode.
07:25 And I'm going to start selecting edges that will kind of break up the shape here.
07:31 So I'm going to go right in here, and actually, I'm going to go ahead and turn
07:34 my symmetry back on in this case. I'm going to go right through here, and
07:38 I'm going to select this edge. And what that's going to do is that's
07:41 going to cut off this section from this section.
07:44 Anywhere you select an edge with the UV Unwrap Tool, it's going to essentially
07:48 work like a knife blade. So I'm going to select that part there,
07:52 and, I think I'm going to go right here this time for that.
07:56 So now that's got this entire top section is all completely separated.
08:01 We got the large island here with these little legs coming off, on the side and
08:05 the front. And now I've got the front section here,
08:08 which is going to wrap around. And at the moment it's going to wrap up
08:12 and down and then back, all the way around and just be kind of, bit of a big mess.
08:17 So, I'm going to want to cut this off in a couple of places.
08:21 So, by adding some edges there, I've got that part sectioned off.
08:25 So that this back centerpiece is its own section, and then I'm going to come down
08:29 here and select these little pieces right there.
08:33 And that will now leave me with this section here, (SOUND), this section here
08:38 which is all one piece that wraps around the middle.
08:43 And in the top, the top back, and then kind of the back sides here.
08:49 So I'm going to go ahead and hit the Unwrap Tool.
08:51 Make sure that my initial projection is set to Group Normal.
08:54 And that's just going to let each individual piece be projected from the
08:57 average direction that all the polygons are facing.
09:01 So I'll go ahead and click OK in there. And you'll notice this is working all
09:05 right for the most part, and as I increase the iterations it's going to get better
09:08 and better and better. But it's going to have a hard time with
09:12 one little chunk in here and that's going to be this section right here.
09:18 And so, what we'll have to do is kind of manually unfold this part in order to get
09:22 what we want. So once again I'm going to turn Symmetry off.
09:26 And I'm going to select a nice little chunk towards the top here.
09:30 And then I'll just continue moving down with my selection.
09:34 And you might get some points where you're hitting the overlap, and that's when you
09:38 can actually just hop over into 3D space. And continue making your selections.
09:42 So, I'm just going to remain kind of in 3D space since I have so much overlap with my
09:48 UV down there. You want to refrain from using some of the
09:53 expanding selection options. Like holding the Shift key and pressing
09:57 the Up Arrow. Mostly because that's going to select more
10:00 than you want it to in UV space, so that's something that you need to be careful about.
10:05 So I'm going to select this whole section here and I really need to do is kind of
10:08 rotate this so that it kind of flips out. So I'm going to set my Action Center to Automatic.
10:14 I'm going to make sure I'm in my UV view here, press the E key for the Rotate Tool.
10:20 And I'll click down here at the bottom to recenter my handle, and we'll just rotate
10:25 this up. So that it fits, and I think I'll about
10:29 about 30 degrees, ought a do that, and I can do the exact same thing here on the
10:34 other side. So let me go ahead and select all of this,
10:40 all of this, and then over in 3D space, select all of this stuff.
10:47 Let me make sure that I have this inner rim selected here.
10:57 And that last little polygon right there. We'll do the same thing here.
11:03 I'll press the E key, click down here, and I'll rotate this one back out, and I'll
11:06 try to go about the same amount, so about 30 degrees, and there we go.
11:10 So now all I need to do is kind of pack everything into the same place.
11:16 If you hop over here and look at the helmet model complete LXL, you'll see that
11:20 we have the UV map all completely unwrapped.
11:24 And let's go ahead and select our Mesh item here.
11:30 So you can see I've got the top section here is all of my inter-ribbing areas.
11:36 I gave it a little bit more space in this version.
11:39 And then, I've got my whole exterior here, set into just those four large islands.
11:47 You can see those separated out there. I can hide those, so you can see.
11:54 Then we have all of our ridges, which I'll go ahead and select here.
11:58 I can just press H to Hide those. And then I've got just the interior, which
12:01 is broken up into a similar amount of islands, but I've just kind of scaled them
12:04 smaller and packed them in more tightly. And then you put that all together, and
12:11 you have one nice, complete UV map that will allow you to Paint on this.
12:16 And add any kind of graphics that you'd want to using the 3D Painting Tools.
12:21 So breaking up a really complex model to UV map is just a case of taking a little
12:24 piece at a time. And it's kind of eating a way at it until
12:28 you get one complete unwrapped UV model. And then you can always go in and stitch
12:33 some pieces back together if you want to gain more continuity.
12:37 But for the most part this should be great for working with a 3D Painting Tools
12:40 inside of Moto.
12:42
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3. Working with Texture Layers
Layering texture basics
00:02 Layers are a method for creating complex textures inside a Modo.
00:07 With the basic material, you can easily create shaders that have the appearance of
00:11 opaque, or transparent, or translucent objects.
00:14 You can control specularity, reflectivity, and all of that sort of thing.
00:19 Now, with layers, you can actually go in and take any individual component of your
00:23 material and break it out, and get precise control of it using either an image-based
00:27 texture or a procedural texture. If you'd like to follow along with me, you
00:33 can choose the texture start LXO file from the chapter three folder.
00:38 And in there you will see a simple cube Sitting on a ground plane.
00:43 The cube has a basic material applied, and that is a sort of semi reflective dull
00:48 glossy black finish. And there are also some hidden layers up
00:52 here which we'll look at. In order to create a, a nice deep texture
00:57 for this and add some detail and Control over individual areas of the surface,
01:03 layers are used to do that. You can see that I have a diffuse color, a
01:09 specular color, a bump map, specular amount, specular fresnel and roughness.
01:14 Now, notice that there is that thing under the reflective channel.
01:18 And that's because in my base material, I have matched specular turned on.
01:22 And that means that anything that goes into the specular channel be it a mount,
01:25 color fresnel, all of those things will route back to the reflective channels as well.
01:30 So, let's have a look at how this texture builds up when we add on the individual pieces.
01:35 So, here's the diffused color, and with that added on, you can see that we get the
01:38 video2brain logo popping up on all three visible sides of this cube.
01:42 It's also on the other three sides, we just don't see them at the moment.
01:46 And then if we add on the specular color, you'll notice that the reflections in the
01:50 specularity get a much deeper sends to them.
01:54 This adds a lot of crispness to the texture overall, and makes the colors pop
01:57 and appear more vibrant by making those reflected areas reflect something more in
02:01 line with the basic color. If you look at the base material, the
02:05 specular color is just white. So, that's why with that off, we get kind
02:09 of a dull white sheen over everything. With that on you can get much more
02:14 richness of your colors. Then there's also a bump map, which if we
02:19 look at the image is essentially the video2brain logo with the individual
02:22 triangles have been broken out into medium, light gray, and then white colors
02:27 so that we get a stair-stepping effect. So, if we close that you can see a real
02:33 light stair-stepping up of those colors there.
02:37 There's also a specular amount which is going to control the actual amount of
02:41 specularity and reflectivity. You can see that it didn't cause much
02:45 change in the base black here, but it gives me a little bit more pop in my
02:49 reflections here on the triangles and also on the video2brain text.
02:54 And that just gives the appearance of something like a gloss coat that's been
02:57 applied to the material if you were going to actually have this printed.
03:02 We also have a specular fresnel, which is going to further increase that at the
03:06 incidence angles. So, at the angles where the box is facing
03:09 more perpendicular to our view, we're going to get an increase.
03:14 And that texture layer just has the values boosted so that as the faces approach
03:18 perpendicular to our viewpoint, they will increase the amount of specularity and
03:22 reflectivity, and give us a bit more of a realistic look at our material.
03:28 And then the last one here is roughness. And what that roughness does is modulates
03:33 the amount of blur that is contained in this material.
03:36 Since the base material has blurry reflections turned on, that roughness will
03:40 control not only the specular roughness. So, how broad the sheen is off of the main
03:45 light source, but also how dull and how blurred out the reflections are over the
03:49 surface of the object. Now, you could take these two images and
03:54 create a really a great number of textures.
03:57 See, all that I have here is a color image, which is the one that you see here
04:00 on the box, both as the diffuse color and the speculative color.
04:04 And then the grayscale one that is applied to the bump, specular amount, specular
04:08 fresnel and roughness. Now, I could also take this bump map and
04:12 change it to a displacement map. If you have clean geometry or if you're
04:16 modeling in Sub-D, you can pretty easily use a displacement map.
04:20 And since the background is all back, it's not effecting any of this box around the corners.
04:25 Its only displacing where I have the text and then the three step part of the
04:29 triangles in the logo. So, all together those pieces will come
04:34 together to create a good, deep and vibrant texture.
04:37 And those are the basics that you'll use to create any complex texture inside of Modo.
04:45
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Color vs. value textures
00:02 In modo there are two basic types of texture layers that you'll have to deal with.
00:07 One is a texture that has to do with color and will have red, green, and blue
00:10 channels that go together to create a finished color look.
00:14 This would be something like the color that you see on the logos here across this object.
00:19 The other type of color is a value based color.
00:23 And value based colors are simply a single value that goes from say zero to 100, can
00:27 also be scaled beyond that. And that will be the kind of texture layer
00:32 that will handle things like bump map, displacement.
00:35 Anything that's based off of percentage, as opposed to being based off of a color.
00:40 If we just look here at this simple material reflectivity settings, you can
00:43 see that Diffuse amount is a percentage, so that's going to be a value.
00:46 Diffuse color is a color, so that will be a color texture.
00:49 Another value, Value value, anytime you see Specular Color or Reflective Color.
00:54 If we flip over to our Transparency settings, Transparent Color, Subsurface Color.
00:59 Those are going to be color based textures and they will have three components, the
01:03 red, green and blue. Whereas the other ones that are
01:06 percentages or simple numerical values, those are the ones that will be controlled
01:10 by a single input. And let's have a look at how these
01:14 actually apply inside individual texture layers.
01:19 So, I'm going to start here by putting a Noise layer over the top of all of this.
01:24 And let's go ahead and hide everything else so that we just have a nice clean
01:28 material to work with. So, right now that noise is applied to the
01:33 Diffuse Color, and if I look at my noise channel here, my textured layers.
01:39 You can see that I have a Color 1, which is my black and a Color 2, which is my
01:43 white color. If I change one of these, let's change the
01:47 white to something like this magenta color.
01:51 You could see that that's affecting the color across the surface of the object.
01:56 And I'll, likewise I can go in and change another value here on my black and change
02:00 it to something like this that will give you a nice headache.
02:04 (LAUGH) And you have now a magenta to blue noise.
02:08 Let's take this and we're going to pull those back to their default values.
02:13 Now, if I were to take this exact layer and change it to a bump map.
02:17 You can see that I have this real fine surface bump running across the entire thing.
02:22 To make that a little bit more pronounced, I'm going to go ahead, go down to the
02:25 material and I'm going to increase the bump amplitude.
02:29 Just so that we can see it here. Let's set it up to 35 millimeters.
02:33 That's a little bit more obvious. Now, if I go back up to my Noise layer and
02:38 select that. And make a change to something like my
02:42 color 2 there which let's take a pull all the way down to black.
02:45 See nothing happens to the bump map itself.
02:48 And that's because of this color 2 and this color 1 don't drive bump because it
02:52 is a value-based texture. And it's pretty obvious when you're
02:56 working with a procedural texture here. Like this noise layer because you can see
03:01 you have Value 1 and Value 2, which are set to zero and 100% respectively.
03:07 Let's go ahead and put our color 2 back up so we have again black to white.
03:10 So we have kind of the default settings. But if I take Value 2 and I pull that down
03:14 to 0%, now you can see the texture across the surface of the cube is completely smooth.
03:22 That's because it's going from 0% to 0%. Now, as I increase this, you'll see little
03:27 bits of textures start to appear. And this would be something akin to taking
03:31 the texture color and decreasing the white or increasing the black.
03:37 In order to get a closer, less contrasty appearance.
03:41 So we're just getting less contrast in our bump map here.
03:44 Now you can take this and overdrive this number.
03:46 If I could set it up to 250%, for example, you see that the texture becomes very rough.
03:50 At this point, a bump map probably will start to break down and not really be
03:54 ideal for what you're looking for. But you can see that I can definitely
03:59 overdrive this material. Now I can also overdrive it into negative
04:04 values so if I put Value 2 back down to 100%.
04:07 I can take Value 1, pull it into negatives, say 100%.
04:11 And again we're getting a much deeper texture because we're getting more contrast.
04:16 Instead of going from zero to 100% we're going from negative 100% to positive 100%.
04:22 And this kind of thing you will see pretty frequently used with things like
04:25 displacement maps. Where you'll go from a negative value to a
04:29 directly correlating positive value so that zero lines up in the middle.
04:35 Now, what you can use a 50% grey to be a static appearance where it's not going to
04:40 affect the surface of your object. If you go into anything less than 50%
04:45 gray, it will indent the surface. And when you go above 50% gray, that will
04:50 extrude the surface outwards so you get kind of more of a possibility of depth.
04:56 If you're dealing with just zero to 100% with the displacement map, then you can't
05:01 go anywhere beyond the basic. If it's black, it's at the level that it
05:06 exists at and you see on your model and you get increasing values that go up.
05:11 But if you go back beyond the negative, you can actually get indentation and
05:15 extruding on the same surface. So, these values, while they're very
05:20 simple, can really help drive a lot of different textures on an object.
05:25 Anything, like I said previously, that isn't a color, like Diffuse color or
05:30 Reflection color, or anything like that, Specular color.
05:34 If it's not one of those, it's going to be driven by a value.
05:37 So, I could change this to any other parameter if it says amount, or if it just
05:41 doesn't say the color it's going to give me that amount.
05:45 Reflection for an L for example is a value.
05:47 Refraction Roughness is a value. Roughness in general is to value.
05:51 So, all of those things will be governed by this negative, set that back to zero,
05:56 by default zero to 100% value. Now, the same thing applies to image maps,
06:02 let's go ahead and hide that. And I'm going to go here to my video2brain
06:07 logo that I've got. And you can see that the background is
06:11 black, and that it has color in each of these, and then I've got white through the text.
06:18 Okay, you can see the effect that this has.
06:21 Right now I have my displacement set to draft.
06:25 So they're going to be really low quality. But it'll give me a good fast redraw.
06:29 But if I take this, and let's go to my Texture layer, I can see that I have a low
06:35 value and a high value. And these values are going to govern the
06:40 way that the displacement works, just like they did on a procedural texture.
06:45 So it shows up in a slightly different place with an image map, but It will give
06:50 you the same end effect. So, if I take, for example, my high value
06:55 from 100% up to 250%, we'll see that the surface gets extruded much more.
06:59 And just so we can see this a little bit more cleanly, I'm going to go ahead and
07:03 turn off Draft Displacements. It'll take it a little bit longer to
07:06 refresh here but we'll get a better idea of what's actually going on.
07:10 So you can see, because I have this black area and then the lighter colored areas.
07:14 Were getting this kind of raised surface coming up, whereas the black is just
07:18 staying the same. If however, I were to set my high value to
07:24 zero and my low value to negative 100, we'll see that the surface is actually
07:31 pulling inwards. You can see here how this is pulling in.
07:39 And this is actually probably not ideal in this case because I'm going from black, so
07:42 it's going to pull in all my corners. But if I were to take this and put this at
07:46 zero, and take my high value and essentially invert this to put it to
07:49 negative 100%. You see now that my text is just going to
07:53 inset and now we're kind of debossing the surface here.
07:59 So all of those things are possible using your value based textures.
08:03 And your color-based textures then will apply to all of your color attributes of
08:07 your material, your Diffuse, your Specular and Reflective colors.
08:12 Also apply to your transparent colors and your sub surface colors.
08:16 Put those all together and that will help you create more deep textures.
08:20 And also help you to understand how those textures are being created with your
08:25 different layers inside of modo.
08:29
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Basic procedural textures
00:02 Procedural Textures are mathematically generated textures that use algorithms to
00:06 create different colors across the surface of an object.
00:10 Now, usually when you think of this, the simple example would be something like
00:13 Photoshop clouds, which can be duplicated relatively closely by the Noise Procedural Texture.
00:21 That just gives you kind of this general random noisiness.
00:23 This doesn't really denote the depth and complexity possible through Procedural
00:27 Textures, because there are procedural textures with much more control inside of Modo.
00:34 Now, I can however take this single Noise value and do quite a bit with it.
00:39 If we go, and select the Noise and go to our Texture Layers, you can see that I get
00:43 my initial values zero to 100%. If it's going to be a value-based texture,
00:47 this is a color because it's set to diffuse colors.
00:53 So, I've got my Color 1 and Color 2 set to black and white.
00:58 I can change the type of fract. I can go with Simple, which is just
01:01 going to be a very, very basic kind of undulation between the two colors.
01:05 Fractal which is a little bit more in depth, and the Turbulence which is
01:09 going to be something more like Difference clouds in Photoshop.
01:14 Just go back to Fractal for now, so, we can see this.
01:17 I can control the number of frequencies, higher frequencies is going to mean more complexity.
01:22 The ratio between the Frequencies, all those kind of similar things that you
01:25 would expect to find in the, the control of a Procedural Texture that is based off
01:29 of you know, these simple values. So, I can play with those and get a lot
01:35 out of them. All of these textures are also going to
01:38 contain a bias and a gain. So, Bias is going to make us lean more
01:43 towards the dark as we pull it up or the Color 1 or the value one.
01:49 And as we pull it down in percentage, it's going to lean the texture more towards the
01:53 Color 2. And also the Gain, which is essentially
01:56 the contrast between the two. Turning this down is going to make a much
02:00 more smooth surface that kind of blurs between the colors, and turning this up is
02:04 going to give me something much more contrast-y.
02:08 If we get up even higher, we'll be looking at something kind of like you know, a cow
02:11 kind of texture. But this kind of level of Procedural
02:16 Texture really just scratches the surface as to what is possible using Procedural
02:20 Textures inside of Modo. If we look here under Add Layer and pull
02:25 down the Textures, you'll see a list of the very basic ones.
02:29 And these are useful, but very simple in their construction.
02:33 There is a Cellular one, which if I pull up you can see just gives me kind of these
02:37 veiny type of lines through the surface. If I right click on here also I can choose
02:43 Change Type and then I can just go in, and just pick a different one.
02:47 There's a Checkerboard pattern, there's Dots, there's a Simple Grid, there's the
02:50 Noise that we've already looked at. There are ripples which drop in there and
02:55 you can see kind of gives the idea of like pond ripples from multiple sources.
02:59 And you can change the number of sources. You can say, right now we're set to eight sources.
03:03 you can set the wavelength and the phase and whatnot.
03:06 And actually these can be animated to give you the idea of ripples moving across the surface.
03:12 It's a little hard to see in preview, but you can change that relatively easily.
03:17 And key frame that so that you get animated ripples.
03:22 Another one that's relatively useful here in the basic textures would be the Weave texture.
03:27 And if I look at this here, by default, it's just set to a solid projection.
03:32 I'm going to go to the Texture Locator and change that to a Cubic, so that it appears
03:35 on all the faces here. And then I'm going to increase the size.
03:40 Now, remember that if you want to increase the size of something evenly across the
03:44 surface, you can enter some multiplication.
03:48 So, let's say, times five, hold Ctrl and then press Enter, and it's going to
03:52 multiply everything evenly. So, as a diffuse color, it's not super,
03:57 super useful. However, if we apply this to a Bump or a
04:01 Displacement Channel, you can get something much nicer.
04:04 So, I'll set it to Bump and we can kind of see the idea here.
04:08 And if I set it over to Displacement, this isn't a sub D mesh, so, it's going to pull
04:11 apart a bit at the edges, but you can see really start to get the woven texture
04:15 really start to appear very nicely. Now, one of the extra controls that you
04:21 get in here is Yarn Width and Roundness, so, this is going to be something specific
04:24 to this texture. And this is going to be something common
04:28 to all Procedural Textures. They'll have kind of a basic set of
04:30 controls that will be about the same. And then they'll have a few custom
04:34 attributes that you can use to really fine tune these.
04:37 Now, if I take the Yarn Roundness, if I take this here and decrease it, let's go
04:41 down to say 10%, we'll see that the tops of these pieces actually flatten out.
04:48 So, lower roundness is going to equate with something like you know, a woven basket.
04:55 Whereas a higher value is going to give you something more like, something that's
04:59 actually woven with thread. So, let's set this up to, we'll go all the
05:03 way up to 100%, and you'll see that these get much much more roundy.
05:09 Now, what you would want to do however, I'm not going to do it here because it
05:11 gets a little bit hard to see on this cube, would be to decrease the size.
05:15 Because typically when you're doing something like woven yarn, you're looking
05:18 at a tighter weave, something like a basket that's going to be a larger weave.
05:22 But you can get creative with how you use something like this, and actually get
05:26 something that's very, very useful in your finished texture.
05:31 Now, if I take this here and I set this back to my diffuse color, you also notice
05:35 that I have these black and white areas. And these can be very useful if you want
05:41 to create some holes in your pattern. So, if I want to change this and use it to
05:47 mask out this surface. First, I would want to take that Yarn
05:51 Roundness and turn it down to something like, maybe all the way down to zero.
05:57 And now, you can see it's giving me more black areas and less grey scale in the middle.
06:06 And instead of Diffuse Color, I'm going to go down to the Special Effects and change
06:11 it to Stencil, and then Invert it. And now, we actually have these holes in here.
06:16 So, if I were to take this and duplicate it, and change this one to Displacement.
06:23 And set my Roundness back up again. Now, you can see that I start to get the
06:28 idea of this woven basket that actually has you know, physical construction to it.
06:36 So, you know, this kind of thing can save you a lot of modeling time, if you have
06:40 something that would need something like a woven texture.
06:44 Now, this is just one example. There are lots other Procedural Textures
06:47 that we will help you create really complex surfaces, and even the appearance
06:51 of mottled surfaces, without having to actually and create the model of something
06:55 like this basket weave on the top. So, simple Procedural Textures can help
07:01 you create good in-depth materials, and also help you even in your modelling process.
07:06
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Advanced procedurals
00:02 Modo opera's a large set of advanced procedural textures that can be used to
00:07 enhance the look of your 3D objects. These are found under Add Layer > Enhance
00:13 > Modo Textures. And you can see there is a list of
00:17 categories, and within each of these there are individual sets of procedural textures.
00:24 We can look here and see the Dirt procedural texture, applied to the Diffuse
00:28 Color layer of this material. You can see that it offers multiple layers
00:34 of noise that are blended together to create a more deep and complex fractal pattern.
00:41 This is going to be less recognizable than a typical noise pattern and will allow you
00:46 the ability to create more in depth and more organic looking materials.
00:53 This same texture applied to the Diffuse Amount channel, will allow you to get a
00:57 more broken up and organic feel on a simple basic material that is applied to
01:01 this cube. You can use this as an overlay over any
01:06 other materials that you've created, to help add extra interest and organic depth
01:11 without having to go in and paint those things by hand.
01:16 You can also take this and apply it to the Roughness channel, to break up the level
01:20 of blur in the reflection of this material.
01:24 In order to get a good idea of the possibilities, you can go to the Help menu
01:28 and choose Inline Help System which will take you to the Modo Help System.
01:34 In herer you can either follow the path, Shade Light and Render, Shader Tree items
01:39 and E-modo Textures or simply type in the keyword search E-modo textures in order to
01:44 get a good list of the available textures. And all the different sub categories,
01:51 Geometric, Noise, Organic, Skins, Tiles and in other various things that are offered.
01:58 This will just give you a good idea of what the basic look of each category is
02:02 and from there, you can go in and further adjust these texture layers to get the
02:06 look that you're going for. One important thing to note is the fact
02:13 that many of these materials base off of a similar group of parameters.
02:19 So, you can see here within the Dirt texture, we have a type of noise which
02:23 you'll get this basic list in all of these, Enhanced pearl and Gradient value, etcetera.
02:31 And then you'll get frequency modulations and magnitudes, and these will alter the
02:35 depth and appearance of your texture. And then you'll also get a group of output
02:39 controls, so Upper and Lower Clipping which will allow you to bracket in the
02:43 high and low values. Biasing and Gain, that will adjust your
02:47 contrast and also weighting of your texture and then Foreground and Background
02:52 colors and alphas. These will be common to all the different
02:56 types of enhanced mode or textures, and so, once you've worked with a few of them,
03:00 all of them will appear to be relatively familiar and comfortable.
03:05 If we look at the plating example, you can see that there is a set for plates, which
03:11 I am going to turn on as my diffuse color. And you can see this has a nice, broken up
03:20 grid that is based off of a simple, geometric grid and then is using this
03:25 Plate Disturb function to break up and add smaller pieces into the plating.
03:35 Now, one thing that's important to notice is with my Plate Seed set to 500 and my
03:39 Plate Disturb set to 25 percent, I can use other sections within this group.
03:45 So, if we go to panels, you can see there's Peel Plates, Rivet Rust, Rivets,
03:49 Rust, Smear and those will all be based off of the same simple kernel.
03:56 So, if we look at the rivet section, this has Rivets filling the entire object.
04:03 But, if I go into the options, I can turn off draw all Rivets, and it will just give
04:06 me the borders. Now, if you pay attention, you'll notice
04:10 that these Rivets are following the same grid patterns as the previous texture with
04:15 just the plates. So, if I add the plates back in, you can
04:19 now see that you have this good randomized distribution of plating, with also a
04:23 randomized distribution of individual Rivets that are going around the edges of
04:27 the plates. So, this kind of interaction and
04:33 similarity between the groups of enhanced modo textures will allow you to create
04:38 texture sets, that have more depth than just using individual texture layers alone.
04:45 You can see that see that this Rivet layer is set to Blend mode of subtract, and
04:50 that's going to darken up the areas where those Rivets are.
04:55 If I remove the Plates layer, you can see that it will just darken the underlying color.
05:01 With all of the depth and complexity available, in enhanced modo textures, you
05:05 can often find, many of the pieces that you need, to create good, deep textures,
05:09 without having to hand paint, or photo source a lot of the layers.
05:15 This will help you get your textures done more quickly and also give them a nice
05:18 organic touch.
05:20
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Image-based layers
00:02 Image based textures will give the perfect ability to edit pixel by pixel the details
00:06 on the surfaces of your 3D models. But it's important to know how to control
00:11 these images both inside and outside of Modo.
00:15 You can see here we have this cube with a few different layers of textures.
00:20 Two of these layers are based off of a color texture.
00:23 So you can see here's the color logo. And the other layers are based off of a
00:28 gray scale texture. You can see that this is a variation on
00:32 the logo with the increasingly light areas of triangles and then the white logo.
00:38 Now, it's important to have these these two different textures in order to
00:42 properly address the color and value based layers within our material.
00:47 Now, if we were to take, for example, just a simple color texture and apply it to a
00:52 value-based layer, the result would be something less than ideal.
00:57 So, let's go ahead and take this displacement layer.
01:00 And I'm going to change it from the gray to the regular logo color.
01:05 You can see that with this done we get some strange overlapping happening with
01:09 the displacement on the triangles. Let's hop over to Photo Shop and see why
01:14 this is. If we look at this texture with a color
01:17 base interpretation, it simply takes the color values and apply them to the surface.
01:24 But when looking for a value, all that Modo can see is the Brightness values.
01:29 In other words, if we were to go to our images, and, take our, Saturation and pull
01:34 it all the way down, this is all that Modo can see.
01:38 So you can see that we have the lightest area in the center section, and then kind
01:42 of decreasing areas as the overlapping happens in the different colors, have
01:46 different levels of brightness. This may or may not be what you want.
01:53 So it's important to know that if you have different values within your red, green or
01:57 blue channels that you want to use for a value-based texture, you would need to go
02:02 and separate those out in order to use them within Modo.
02:08 Another thing that you can do is to use an alpha in your texture in order to get an
02:12 extra layer of control within your image. I have a V2B_Logo_Deep texture.
02:20 It's a Targa file. I'm going to open that up, and you can see
02:24 that I have the same red, green, and blue channels.
02:27 But, then, I also have an alpha, which is the edited version of the logo that has
02:31 the stair stepping of the triangles. If we click back over to Modo, and I'm
02:37 going to select this Displacement layer, and I'm going to change the image, and I'm
02:43 going to load in (BLANK_AUDIO) that deep logo texture that has the alpha channel.
02:55 You can see that at default, it's going to use the brightness values on the color.
03:00 But with this texture, since I have the alpha channel, if you look down at the
03:03 bottom of the texture, you can see that there's an alpha channel section.
03:07 And right now, the alpha channel is set to use.
03:11 You can also choose to ignore the alpha channel or use only the alpha's.
03:15 So, if I click over to Alpha Only, you'll see that I get back to where I wanted it
03:18 to be with the stair-step approach. If you do this with your textures and you
03:25 use a texture format for your images, that is capable of supporting an alpha channel,
03:29 you can include an entire extra, layer of possibilities within your image-based textures.
03:37 This can make it so that you don't need to use multiple different images in order to
03:42 get the desired results. So, for example, I can change all of these
03:48 value-based textures to that deep texture, and then go down and change my alpha
03:54 channel to Alpha Only, and I could go to my two color-based textures, and also
03:59 change those to my other texture. So you can see that using that single
04:07 image, I still get to have my color based textures, but at the same time, I still
04:10 get the depth with that extra layer to control the value based textures.
04:18 You may notice that the texture looks a little bit washed out once I've applied
04:22 the image to the color channels. And that's because that alpha channel is
04:26 now being blended into the black underlying texture.
04:29 So, if I go down here and change my alpha channel from Use to Ignore, you can see
04:33 that the color vibrance bounces back up, and I get back to where I expect to be
04:36 with kind of a texture. Another option that you have with using
04:44 image based textures is the Antialiasing. Now, when you're using a finished render
04:49 with Antialiasing, you will actually be anti-aliasing a texture twice.
04:54 So in a lot of instances, it's a good idea to take your Antialiasing and disable it,
04:59 especially for color-based textures. However, when you're using this textures
05:05 in other capacities the Antialiasing can offer some extra functionality.
05:10 For example, if we look at this minimum spot setting, on this Texture layer, which
05:14 is my displacement layer, it's set to 10. And the effect of this is actually
05:19 something similar to a simple Gaussian blur.
05:23 So if I take this and set it back to 1 and we look here, notice that this edge gets
05:28 to be very rough and jagged and sharp. You can also see it here along the logo text.
05:35 And this isn't exactly what I was going for with this.
05:39 Now I could go into Photoshop, create another version of the texture that has
05:42 everything blurred a little bit, so that I get a little bit more rounding on my
05:46 displacement instead of a sharp drop off. But instead of doing that I can actually
05:51 control that right here inside of Modo. This is going to be another way to allow
05:56 me to use less textures, take less memory footprint, but also have more control at
06:01 the same time. By increasing this to something like 10,
06:05 you can see that we start to get a little bit more of a rounded off appearance, and
06:08 that's going to be more consistent with what I want.
06:12 If I take it and increase it even farther to something like 50, you'll notice that
06:16 it starts to really soften up the edges of this embossing effect.
06:21 So, here along the video2brain text, you can see that it really rounds off farther
06:25 and it gives the appearance of a wider emboss.
06:29 In this case, that isn't what I'm looking for but in some instances that might be
06:32 something that I would want. So, for this one, I'm going to take it and
06:36 turn it back down to ten. Properly using image-based textures will
06:41 allow you to have good control and flexibility without constantly bouncing
06:45 back between your image editor and Modo. And at the same time, this proper usage
06:50 will allow you to use less textures, decrease your memory foot print, and get
06:54 better render times for your finished images.
06:59
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Layer gamma
00:02 Image Gamma Correction, is one of those topics that I see come up lot and it gets
00:05 a lot of confusion and mistreatment in general, becoming something that people
00:08 avoid because they're worried about messing it up.
00:12 It's really a simple thing once you look at how it's actually working.
00:16 Now if we look at this. Image here, our logo.
00:19 This is our color image, and it's coming in straight from Photoshop.
00:23 This one is a TARGA file, and you can see that I have my gamma set to 0.4545.
00:29 Now, if I set my gamma up to 1, you can see that my image becomes quite washed
00:33 out, and the reason for that is when I save this image out of Photoshop, if we
00:37 look over here, we'll just do a save as. You can see that I have the embedded color
00:45 profile of SRGB at 2.1. Now, a typical SRGB is going to be, a lot
00:49 of times, 2.2. Just off my monitor, it's 2.1.
00:53 So I actually have this corrected to 2.2 in Moto.
00:56 But we can look and see what's going on here.
00:58 And what you can do is simply take your gamma here.
01:01 1.0 and divide it by 2.2. Or in this case 2.1.
01:06 So I had .4545. It's actually .4762 but, you know, very close.
01:11 Usually if I had a 2.2 coming in, it would be .4545.
01:15 But the reason that this is an issue is because when Modo renders, let's go ahead
01:19 and just fire off our render here. It's rendering at a 2.2 output.
01:31 So what you're seeing is, your seeing the color correction happening as the image
01:34 comes in. And if you're keeping it at 1.0 you're
01:37 essentially saying you'll be at 2.2 or 2.1 in this case.
01:41 And then when it renders it's correcting it back to 2.2 so that's going to increase
01:44 those values. So when I render, I just have to remember
01:48 that Modo by default is saving this at 2.2.
01:52 And now I can change this to a 1.0 in my Preferences.
01:55 I can simply go up to Preferences and, Rendering, and you can see, here is my
02:02 display gamma and my default output gamma, both set to 2.2.
02:09 Now, I can change those to 1.0. For what I do, I typically am setting
02:13 output to monitors, so 2.2 is going to work fine for me.
02:17 If you're going through a linear workflow, where you want everything to be at 1.0,
02:20 it's a good idea to set this down to 1.0, and then just work with your images that way.
02:26 But the changing of this gamma, is going to be something you'll still wants
02:30 to do, because otherwise, your going to be double gamma correcting, color correcting
02:33 your images. They'll get color corrected, when you
02:37 bring them in and then they'll be color corrected when you export and render and
02:40 so you get it stacked on top of another. So, the easy and quick solution for this,
02:44 is just. Take your gamma of 1.0, divide it by
02:47 whatever your gamma is outputting, you can check it in Photoshop.
02:51 And then you can just divide it, so you know, again, I can just take one divided
02:55 by 2.1 or 2.2 if that's what you're coming out as.
03:00 You get your finished color here, and it's going to become more like what you would
03:03 expect with your image, as opposed to just leaving it at 1.0.
03:08 Or you're going to get something very washed out, and the general quick rule of
03:11 thumb for spotting this is if it looks washed out, divide the 1.0 in your gamma
03:15 by the gamma that your image has if you check it in Photoshop.
03:20 It will give you the desired results and a nicer looking finished image.
03:25
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4. Advanced Shader Tree Options
Texture layer blending
00:02 The concept of blending layers for your materials inside of Modo is very similar
00:06 to layer stacking inside of Photoshop. Here I have a very basic scene.
00:11 If you'd like to follow along, you can open up can model texture start and you'll
00:14 have this simple scene here with a ground plane to catch the shadow.
00:19 You have a base paint layer which is what you see on the can.
00:22 Right now it's kind of just a shiny, white paint, and then underneath that there is a
00:27 blurred metallic aluminum. Really simple base metal.
00:31 And we can use these to explore some of the possibilities for layer blending.
00:36 What I'm also going to look at here is over in Photoshop.
00:39 I have this Photoshop file that has a simple label mock-up, and I've used the
00:44 UVs on this in order to line up my pieces with the individual parts of the model.
00:51 If you need to export your own UV, you can just go in to Texture > Export UV to EPS.
00:57 Right now, I don't have one selected but if you have a UV selected you can export
01:01 that as an EPS then bring it right into Photoshop and (INAUDIBLE) relatively
01:04 quickly and easily. Just go ahead and hide that and here you
01:09 can see the basic layout that I've done. So, this is going to be if I can turn my
01:13 UBs back on this is the main part of the can Up here on the upper left is the
01:16 bottom of the can, and since I want this to keep the black color, I've got a black
01:20 square around that bottom part and the top part will be white as well as the tabs.
01:27 And then I have all my logo work and everything going down the middle of the can.
01:31 I have things separated into a folder here where I have my logos, and underneath that
01:34 I have kind of, the splashes and the general basic color, and then I have these
01:38 other logos on the left hand side. So, let's go ahead and close that, and
01:44 we'll save this, and I'm going to go over here to my Finder.
01:48 And I'm just going to start by grabbing my can layers PSD file, that's the one we
01:52 were just looking at. And I'm going to drag it into here, it's
01:56 going to land above everything else. Now, by default, this isn't applying to
02:02 the correct UV map. So, that's why, here, when we drop it in,
02:05 at first, we don't see anything really happening.
02:09 Now if I'd had the UV selected when I dropped this in it would go right through it.
02:13 But if I go to the texture layer and then my projection type, which is set to UV
02:16 map, and then I can just select change from texture to the can full UV.
02:21 And that's the UV that we were looking at inside of Photoshop.
02:23 And this will all get dropped right on top of there.
02:26 Now, because this is a very reflective and not very diffuse texture, you see that
02:30 everything gets pretty much washed out. And that's because we're only getting
02:34 about a 20% diffuse and the rest is going on the reflective color, which is just a
02:38 simple color. So, I turn on the paint layer, which is on
02:42 top of the base metal layer. You can see that everything becomes a
02:47 little bit more clear. That's because, on this one, we're looking
02:50 at 80% diffuse and just a little bit of. Reflectivity in similar for now, that's
02:55 giving us a better view of the texture by itself.
02:59 Now the other thing you might notice is that the colors are a bit washed out, so
03:03 I'm going to go down here, and change my Gamma, you know that I'm using a Gamma of
03:06 2.1 out of Photoshop, so I'll just divide by 2.1, and there we go.
03:11 And we have our colors back the way we would expect them.
03:15 So if we want this to be able blend differently we need to know how blending
03:18 is going to work. So by default this is going to drop in as
03:22 a normal blend mode so just a completely opaque texture.
03:26 It's coming in as the diffuse color. And it is just going to override all of
03:30 the diffused that is underneath which is why when we turn off the paint layer, it's
03:34 overriding the diffused that's underneath but all of the reflectivity and all the
03:38 other things are not changed. So if I take this and right click and
03:44 change it to my specular color can see that we have the coloration here now.
03:51 I'm going to go ahead and duplicate this. And change this one to my diffuse color.
03:57 And now you can see we have the general properties of this base metal in the white areas.
04:04 But then we have all of the coloration of our logos on top of that.
04:08 So even though I have these layers overriding.
04:13 Everything underneath. They're only overriding the specular
04:15 color, which is also the reflective color in this case, because I have Match
04:18 Specular turned on, and then the defuse color.
04:21 So anything else, we look down here, our specular amount, our defuse amount, our
04:26 roughness, nothing else is being overridden by this because the can layers
04:31 don't affect those particular channels. So it adds an extra layer of
04:37 dimensionality beyond what you would get in Photoshop.
04:40 Because in Photoshop everything just blends directly on top of what's underneath.
04:45 Now this stacking only overrides what's underneath and what is in the same
04:49 material channel or the same effect. You can see the effect column here.
04:53 So only diffuse color and diffuse specular are being overridden.
04:57 If I change and override any other layer then I'll also get that effect happening.
05:01 Now lets go back to Photoshop here and for right now I'm going to hide my background
05:05 that has the back and white, the splashes and all that.
05:10 Then I'm going to go ahead and save this Photoshop document and then just hop back
05:12 over to in the model. You can see it's going to tell me that my
05:15 document has been updated so we'll just go ahead and let it update.
05:20 And now you can see that because that Photoshop document has transparency built
05:24 into it. We can see through what were those black
05:27 and white areas. So if I go to the base metal and do
05:31 something like change the specular color to, oh, let's make something obvious like
05:35 blue, you can see that the blue shines through.
05:40 And I'll do the same with the diffuse color in this case, make them both blue so
05:42 we get a really saturated blue can. You can see that transparency is coming
05:46 through perfectly. This can be a very powerful option.
05:51 Because you can use transparent blending the same way you would in Photoshop.
05:55 Now, if I look over my Photoshop you can see anywhere I've got my transparent grid,
05:58 that's areas that are going to shine through.
06:01 And this will give you the possibility of blending together multiple pieces right
06:06 inside of Modo. This also gives you the option of doing
06:09 things like placing and assembling your individual pieces.
06:13 Without having to worry about where they are in relation to each other in the
06:17 abstracted uv space, but you can see how they are directly in 3d space.
06:23 So if I go back over to my Finder, and you can see I have a target file here that
06:27 just has my black and white splashes, so let's go ahead and take this.
06:33 And drag it right there underneath can layers, and right now it's set to diffuse
06:38 color, so I'm going to duplicate it and this one I'm going to set to my specular color.
06:45 And now you can see I have my layering back, as I would expect, but just so you
06:49 can get the idea here, if I go up to my texture locator.
06:53 And let's say I want let's see here maybe I want this splash that's coming up here
06:57 going behind those logo triangles maybe I want that to just kind of end just to the
07:02 right of them. And since this is using a UV map I can
07:07 just offset it. So here let's go ahead and maximize this
07:10 view and you can see I have my UV tile offset.
07:13 So U is my horizontal and V is my vertical.
07:16 So if I drag this number up, you can see that the splashes are going to change position.
07:23 So it looks like I'm not going to need to go very far, maybe an offset of about 0.05
07:27 and now those splashes come right up to the right hand side of that logo and end there.
07:33 So you can use this to very powerfully assemble your labeling and your Product
07:38 shots right inside of 3D space. It doesn't require you to do any direct
07:44 painting or anything like that, you can just change your UB offsets, and you can
07:47 really simply place and organize your objects in your 3D scene.
07:53 This is great in the prototyping stage when you're starting to lay things out,
07:56 instead of seeing how things are completely in flat space in Photoshop.
08:01 You can see how they are directly in 3D space.
08:04 This will allow you to quickly and easily see how your objects will display your
08:08 textures your labels and your designs right in 3D space.
08:13
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Instancing layers
00:02 Once you start having more complex materials, with multiple layers affecting
00:06 multiple different material attributes, it can start to be cumbersome to make
00:10 adjustments to all of them, and then keep those adjustments propagated throughout
00:14 all the different duplicated layers. This is where instances become a very
00:20 powerful tool for working with your materials.
00:23 You'd like to follow along, you can open up the Can Model Texture Instances file.
00:27 And you can see here, I have the two layers for my logos, I have the two layers
00:30 for my splashes, and those are each affecting Diffuse Color and Specular Color.
00:35 So what I'm going to do is take my Specular Color ones here, and I'm just
00:38 going to delete those right now. And then I'm going to select my Diffuse
00:42 Color ones. Right click, and instead of duplicating
00:46 them, I'm going to create instances for both of these.
00:49 And you can see that these are both italicized.
00:51 That means that it's an instance of a parent layer, and it's going to be the
00:54 layer with the same name here. So, I'm also going to take these and
00:58 change them now to specular color. And now we're pretty much back to where we
01:02 had started, but now we're dealing with instances instead of duplicates.
01:07 And that means that I can do things like make adjustments.
01:10 To something like my gamma, and I'm going to pull my gamma back up to 1.
01:16 And it's made the same change on my gamma for my specular color here.
01:23 I can go back here and I can divide by 2.1.
01:28 And just going to make the change across both layers.
01:32 Now, with only a couple of layers, this isn't such a big deal, you can always
01:35 click on one layer, control, click on the other one that's sharing the same image,
01:38 and make the changes. But, many times in materials, you'll end
01:43 up with 4, 5, or 6 different layers that are all dependent on the same Initial texture.
01:49 So, making those changes across all of those can be quite a hassle.
01:53 Now, the other thing is that instances are slightly dynamic and by that I mean, you
01:58 can always untie the effect of certain attributes from the parent.
02:04 So, here I'm going to select my specular color from my logos, the can layers image,
02:08 and you can see anywhere I see this purple color, let me highlight that, you can see.
02:14 Driven, and that means that this channel is driven by an external source.
02:17 In this case, its tied to that same attribute on the parent layer.
02:23 Any time you see that purple color that also means that by making a change to that
02:27 attribute, you can untie it from the original.
02:31 So, for example, if I wanted to kind of wash out my specularity.
02:36 I could just take my gamma and increase it to 1.
02:38 It's probably wouldn't be the way you'd really want to wash it out, but for this
02:41 case it will work. And then I'm going to go ahead and hit
02:43 Tab, and you can see that my gamma now became unhighlighted.
02:46 And it's not just a gray constant channel so it's not being governed by the parent layer.
02:55 If I go back to the parent layer here. You can see that the gamma is still at 0.4762.
03:02 So making those changes to the instance will untie it from the parent layer.
03:07 This can be very useful when you're using something like a black and white, or a
03:10 gray scale image as a mask for a texture layer, or for an entire group.
03:15 You can take and invert channels without having to invert all of your instances, or
03:19 you can create an instance where only. That particular instance is inverted so
03:24 that you can flip the effect of the black and the white pixels.
03:28 So, using instances and using them wisely with being able to untie and tie together
03:33 your values, will allow you to more quickly and powerfully make changes across
03:38 your entire material network.
03:42
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Layer and group masks
00:02 When dealing with a complex Photoshop document, it's often very beneficial to
00:05 create groups or folders that you can use for organizational purposes.
00:10 This can help you also to manage different blending modes, and keep your entire
00:14 composition tied together. Now the same thing applies to creating
00:19 complex materials inside Modo. So let's have a look at how we can create
00:23 some texture groups and blendings. That will allow us to add more depth and
00:28 complexity to the textures without them getting out of hand.
00:32 If you'd like to follow along you can open up the can model texture masks file and
00:36 that will give you this can with our multiple texture layers.
00:41 All ready to go. So let's look at how we can use some
00:43 groupings and some masks in order to create a more interesting finished composition.
00:48 So let's start here by looking at this diffused color image which is essentially
00:53 just a black and white image. And black and white images are ideal to
00:57 use for masks because the brightness values directly derive the opacity.
01:04 So I'm going to go ahead and close that. And I'm going to take this diffused color
01:08 here and I'm going to create an instance of it.
01:12 And now I'm going to bring back my base paint color.
01:17 So this is just the more glossly paint finish, and not the rough can material.
01:21 So if I take this difuse color duplicate that I made, and drag it just directly on
01:25 top of my base paint so that it's hightlighted It will create a Mask for
01:29 that Layer. So right now, it's Masking out so that the
01:35 black areas are transparent. In other words, showing the areas underneath.
01:40 And the white areas are opaque. Just like you would expect a mask to work
01:43 in Photoshop. So if I take this an invert it, you can
01:46 see now that my white areas are getting the affect of kind of the brushed
01:50 aluminum, whereas the black areas are now getting the affect of the paint, and this
01:54 is also blending directly through where we have the logos because the splash is a
01:59 complete image by itself and its not reliant on the logos.
02:06 If you wanted to create something that would include those, you could always go
02:10 into Photoshop and create a black and white masked version that would include
02:14 this logo elements and mask them out along with the plashes.
02:19 But for this we'll just use it like this, so now you can see that this layer here is
02:23 very effectively allowing me to create a different mask.
02:28 I can also do this in a more complex manner with groups.
02:32 So, I'm going to go up here to add layer, and I'm going to create a group.
02:39 You can see that this group that's created here, right now it's on top of the base
02:41 shader, and I want to drop it right underneath there.
02:44 It's just an empty folder. And what I'm going to do here, let's go
02:47 ahead and Select my can and the tab. And I'm going to press M to create a new
02:52 material and I'll call this can. And this is going to create another group.
02:56 And this group just has, just a basic white material underneath it.
03:00 So now I'm going to start very quickly organizing this.
03:03 So I'm going to take all of my can layers here.
03:05 And I'm going to drag them into there. And now you can what, have just the can
03:08 really basically there. And now I'm going to take this group here
03:12 and I'm going to pull it up inside of the material for the can.
03:18 So, with this group here I can easily apply entire texture presets inside of my
03:23 can material. Go ahead and make that full size again and
03:28 I'm going to go in here and in my Materials presets.
03:34 And I'm just going to scroll down here to metal and let's open up aluminum.
03:38 And I'm going to find a nice, let's go with oh, brushed aluminum.
03:43 Now I'm going to make sure that I have my group selected here.
03:46 And then I can just double click on Brushed Aluminum.
03:51 Now you can see that this entire group now has all of the properties Of this brushed
03:55 aluminum material. But because this preset material doesn't
04:03 have match specular turned on for the reflectivity, we're only seeing kind of
04:08 this washed out. Little bit of diffuse color, so I'm
04:12 going to go ahead and kind of make that change really quickly.
04:15 And I'm just going to select the material, and you can see match specular is turned off.
04:19 So that means that having my diffuse color and my specular color the same.
04:24 Isn't affecting my reflectivity so let's go ahead and just turn on match specular.
04:27 And there you go. We can see our full colors kind of pop
04:29 back in. I'm just going to reuse this splash's
04:32 black and white image and I'm going to take it and drag it right to the top of
04:35 this group. And you can see that right now it's really
04:39 not doing anything, because it's a diffuse color and it's underneath.
04:44 The diffused colors that I have up here, so it's being overridden by the splashes
04:48 that are up on top of it. Now if I take this however and change it
04:53 from diffused color to group mask it will now mask out this entire group, and this
04:57 is a way that you can have complex interactions between having a bump map,
05:01 having diffuse amounts, diffuse colors, multiple different layers blending together.
05:09 In this case, you can see that just for diffuse amount, I have this new brushed image.
05:14 I have an aluminum diffuse map, I have a gradient, all just affecting the diffuse amount.
05:20 And I can have that complex interaction all within this group.
05:23 And then I can mask out. The entire group using this Mask.
05:29 So let's go ahead and select this group, right click on it, and I'm going to
05:33 duplicate it. And I can say I have the entire group
05:36 underneath as well. I'm going to go ahead and just turn off
05:39 the splashes that are underneath. And now you can see that I've got
05:44 essentially, how it looked before having the group mask on because I'm masking one
05:49 group on top of, the same group underneath.
05:53 But I can go and make one simple change by selecting the material, and taking my
05:57 roughness, now let's drop the roughness down to something really low like 5%.
06:02 Now you can see that, the reflective top areas of the can.
06:06 Are becoming much more clear an reflective.
06:09 So I get more of a smooth polished look on the top, whereas I still have this brushed
06:14 look, inside of where the splashed, black area is.
06:18 An just like I did with the layer mask, I can go up here, select my group mask, an
06:23 invert it, an I can flip the effect. So now I have the more polished look,
06:29 happening where the black paint is. An you can see here if I mouse over this
06:33 for a second Can see it's nice and polished through this area of black where
06:36 the the splash is. And then the top area, it's giving me the
06:41 blurred effect. So just by duplicating my group and making
06:45 one slight change, I've given myself a lot of power over how my different layers are
06:49 being interpreted. You can use this with multiple images and
06:55 have multiple group masks on multiple groups, and create really complex interactions.
07:01 Like I could take and make a mask where just perhaps the video to brain text is
07:05 behaving like plain white paint. And all I would have to do is have A white
07:11 area where the text is. Have a group with white paint.
07:16 Apply the group mask, and you're set and ready to go.
07:18 Using group and layer masks you can very quickly control the behavior of different
07:23 complex interactions inside of your materials.
07:28 And that's the start of creating good, complex, realistic, and fully controllable
07:32 materials for your product visualization images.
07:36
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Multilayered materials
00:01 In order to create good complex materials it's important to realize what order of
00:05 stacking you need to achieve the desired effect.
00:10 In this example, we're going to take this basic can and some of the existing images
00:13 that we've already looked at in order to create a more deep and complex material
00:17 where the texture layers interact and overlap with each other.
00:22 Now in this case, I have a good starting point.
00:25 If you'd like to follow along you can open up the Can Model Complex start file.
00:29 And you can see that I have a can and new material that's applied to the can, and
00:32 also to the tab on at top. And I have three material layers already
00:37 in here. Let's close this up so it's a little bit
00:40 easier to see. I have a matte layer, which has a little
00:43 bit of reflection, but it's It's relatively well blurred here and just gets
00:46 a little bit more edge reflection on the fernell.
00:49 I have a gloss material that's shinier, only has a little bit of blur on the
00:53 reflection, just to soften it up a bit. And there's a little bit heavier on
00:57 reflections overall. And then I have a brushed material, and
01:00 this one actually has more inside of it. It has the different layers controlling
01:05 the bump and the diffuse amount and lots of other things going on underneath here.
01:11 What I want to do here is create a can that has the top section left as this kind
01:15 of brushed aluminum material. The lower section where the splashes were
01:21 as kind of this glossy paint material. And then the logos This, a little bit more
01:27 knocked back, blurred, less reflective, kind of more matte paint version, so I get
01:32 less interruption with my logo colors. And overall, I get to see them a little
01:39 more in their true context, so that they're not encumbered by the reflections.
01:45 This will make it so the logos are more true to form and a little bit easier to read.
01:51 So, now what I'm going to do is bring in some image wraps that I already have.
01:54 So I'm going to go into my clip browser. And I already have my can layers.
01:59 Which is everything flattened. I have my splashes by themselves.
02:04 And then I've gone ahead, and I made another one that's a mask just for the logos.
02:09 So I'm going to go ahead and bring in each of those.
02:11 Let's go ahead, Add Layer, and then Image Map.
02:14 Again, I'm going to use the clip browser and bring in the splashes, and then Add a
02:18 Layer again. Use the clip browser one more time and
02:22 I'll bring in this logo mask. Now I want all of these to have the right
02:26 gamma correction, so I'm just going to Shift, Click on all three of them.
02:30 And here on my gamma, I'm going to go divide it by 2.1, since that's what my
02:34 monitor calibration and my Photoshop is set to.
02:38 And that won't make too much of a difference on the black and white ones,
02:40 but on the color one, you can see that it definitely makes more of a difference.
02:45 So now, I'm ready to start creating the masks, and then after those are created,
02:48 we'll go back and add some layers over the top of everything that will help tie
02:52 everything together. So this logo mask, I want to effect the
02:56 matte color here so that I get just this kind of matte paint.
03:01 So I'm going to take this, I'm going to hide these flashes for now, and I'm going
03:05 to drag the logo mask into the mat box here.
03:08 And now I'm going to change this from diffuse color to groom mask.
03:14 And now you can see that I'm already getting a little bit shinier stuff, but
03:18 it's backwards right now, because my logo mask has my logos as black and my other
03:22 area as white. So I'm just going to go ahead and click invert.
03:28 And now you can see that my outside of parts outside the logos are getting a
03:31 little bit shinier. And, as it comes across the logo here, the
03:35 reflections are getting blurred a bit more and they're more subdued.
03:39 So that ones set, now I'm going to take my splashes and drag it down into the gloss.
03:45 And I can see that this one is also backwards.
03:50 I can also use this as the matte on the brushed.
03:53 And actually let's do that so you can see how it works the other way.
03:55 Instead of inverting that one, I'm going to drag it down to brushed.
03:58 And then I'm going to drag the brushed material up over the top of the gloss.
04:03 Now the only problem is that now I have this set to diffused color, but you can
04:07 actually see how this is. Working with what we have so far.
04:11 The mat is up here on top and that's working and then underneath I have my
04:16 basic can paint. So, what I need to do now is change this
04:21 to a group mask and that will give me back the bottom section, and now what will be
04:26 showing through is I open this up. The black areas will be showing through
04:32 and giving way to the glossy paint underneath.
04:36 So let's close that up and hide that for a second.
04:39 Now, one problem that I'm having with this is the fact that the top section now is a
04:44 little bit too metallic. And it's not carrying enough of that white paint.
04:50 So that can be controlled just by creating an instance in my diffuse color and
04:55 setting that to reflective color. Or in this case, specular color.
05:02 You notice that this didn't change and that's because I don't have a match
05:05 specular turned on for this material. Now occasionally you'll want to make
05:09 changes to a material, but you'll want it to effect all of the material layers.
05:13 Because they're some attributes that can't be controlled with a texture layer, and
05:17 we're going to adjust two of those here right now.
05:20 Because I know I'm going to use these. So I'm going to select all the regular
05:23 material layers that I have in my material, overall here.
05:27 And you can see that if I look down here Match Specular has a question mark and
05:32 that means that in some of these materials is set to on and some it's not.
05:38 So I'm just going to click it and then click again so that I make sure I get
05:41 check mark to appear. And now you can see that my color has
05:44 lighten up here and it has gotten to be more white.
05:48 And that's more what I was looking for here.
05:51 Now the other thing that I'm going to adjust is down on the displacement distance.
05:55 You can see right now it's mixed. And also the bump amplitude.
05:58 Now if I wanted to use any kind of bump or displacement I want these to be tied
06:01 together through all the material layers, so that I don't get any kind of discrepancy.
06:05 Wherever my masks are affecting. So I'm going to set both of these to 30 millimeters.
06:11 Because the next thing we're going to do is add a little bit of a displacement so
06:14 that the logos pop out a bit more. And to do that I can use the same mask
06:20 image that I'm using for my matte color. So I'm just going to right click on that.
06:25 Create an instance and I'm going to pull this instance all the way up to the top.
06:31 And then I'm going to right click and change it from a Group Mask to a Displacement.
06:34 And the other thing that I'm going to do here is, I want to turn on anti-aliasing
06:39 for that, so that I can blur it out a little bit.
06:43 I'm going to set my minimum spot to something like ten.
06:47 And then it's going to soften the edges a little bit.
06:49 And then I'm going to do one more thing and I want to create a clear coat level
06:55 that goes over the top of everything. So what I'm going to do is add one more
07:01 layer and under processing I'm going to add a constant.
07:05 And this constant first is going to paint everything black, but I'm going to change
07:08 this to clear coat amount which is under basic channels.
07:12 Clear coat amount and I'm going to set the value at 100% but maybe just 75%.
07:18 And that's going to give a light clear coat amount that's going to brush over the
07:20 top of everything and it's kind of helped to tie all of the object layers together.
07:25 And there you have it. Now I have a can with three different
07:28 levels of material type. So, I've got a blurred reflection A more
07:32 glossy reflection, and a more matte. There's a displacement that raises up my logos.
07:37 Right now I have draft displacements turned on, so let's go ahead and turn that off.
07:41 And it'll take it a second to calculate, but I'll get better quality on my displacements.
07:45 And then on top of everything, I have a clear coat layer that ties everything
07:48 together, and gives it the effect that there's something that's pulling
07:51 everything together. On the whole surface of the entire can, so
07:56 all of those were created with three different basic sections, so my gloss, my
08:00 brush, and my matte. Colors that override everything
08:04 displacement and clear coat that goes on top of everything, all of it inside of one
08:08 neat package, easy to use, and all I have to do to change this out and give it a
08:12 completely different look is replace my image from my color and my two masks, and
08:16 I'm ready to go.
08:21
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Presets
00:02 Once you've gone through the work of creating complex materials.
00:04 It's important to be able to save them in a way that you'll be able to use again.
00:08 In this case, this has a relatively specific UV map.
00:11 So it might not be the kind of thing that I'm going to drag and drop onto a bunch of
00:14 different models. But, if I ever have another can in another
00:18 scene where I just want to use this quickly.
00:20 I don't want to have to go fish around, find the existing can, import it into the
00:23 scene, reuse the material, or anything like that.
00:26 I just want to be able to drag and drop my material right onto it.
00:30 So, what I'm going to do is show you how to create a quick preset.
00:34 And see that I have my can new file here, and creating the initial preset is really,
00:37 really simple. All I do is right click, and choose Save preset.
00:41 You can also choose to save preset with thumbnail, but since I don't have anything
00:45 ready for that, I'm just going to save the preset.
00:48 Let's go to Save Preset. Now inside my materials, which is in my
00:52 lexology content file. You can see I've got sexology content
00:55 assets, materials, and then I've got a V2B, video to brain folder here, and now
00:59 I'm going to take and I'm going to create V2B can, and it's going to make it an LXP file.
01:06 So, let's go ahead and hit save. And now, if I scroll down here, as soon as
01:10 that finishes saving, you can see that inside my folder here, I have this V2B can.
01:15 Now, the problem is, I've just got this, kind of, blank teapot logo.
01:20 Now if i want to be able to change this out, all I have to do is replace it with
01:23 an existing image, so I can Right Click here and I can either choose to replace it
01:26 with an icon from an image file, or in this case I actually already have it.
01:32 My last render was on this can, so I'm just going to right click on here.
01:36 Replace icon with my last render, and there you go.
01:38 Now I've got this all ready to go. So, if I take my can here and let's apply
01:42 a new material, we'll just call in v tubing.
01:46 It's just going to be a blank white can. I'm just going to select the material
01:50 folder for the group that I just made. Double click on this.
01:55 And it will drop in my can materials all ready to go.
02:00 Just like I previously assembled them. All of the different layers are there.
02:04 And if you wanted to include any variations, you can include those with
02:08 hidden layers or hidden masks. And you could really simply switch those
02:13 on and off in order to get variations. Or, you could turn those variations on,
02:17 save a new preset and you're ready to go. Creating these presets will save you a lot
02:22 of time, when you're making multiple scenes that reuse your existing materials.
02:27 You can also use them and swap out your different color and mask layers to create
02:31 completely new scenes and new materials. Based off of the ones that you've already done.
02:37 This is a way to really speed up your workflow, save a lotta clicks and in the
02:40 end save you a lot of time.
02:42
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5. Polygonal Lighting
Considerations for polygonal lighting
00:00 Lighting using polygons or using geometric lighting is a good way to get nuanced and
00:05 realistic lighting into your scenes. If you'd like to follow along, you can
00:11 open up the poly_light_start_lxo file. And in here you'll see that we have our
00:15 can model With just a basic material on it.
00:19 The shadow catcher is transformed into this simple set with our rolled off backdrop.
00:24 And then we also have this light model, which is just a simple polygon pointed
00:28 towards the can. You can see as soon as I enable that, the
00:31 black scene lights up and we get lighting coming from that polygon.
00:36 So, a couple of things to look at when you're considering doing lighting with polygons.
00:41 Now, first of all, if we go to the shader tree and look at our light material, you
00:45 can see that in the material trans, we have our Luminous Intensity set to 1.
00:51 And this is going to be a good place to keep your Luminous Intensity to get good
00:54 lighting without overblowing and causing a lot of rendering artifacts.
00:59 Now, if we also look at this, you can see that I have a zero diffuse amount.
01:02 And there's essentially nothing else going on with this material.
01:05 It's just the simple luminous amount. And then, you can map a color or an image
01:10 map to that. But keeping it this simple will allow it
01:13 to light your scene, without taking up too much render resources.
01:17 Now another thing to consider is how the scale of lighting affects your scene.
01:22 You can see that we have this light here and it's relatively large compared to the can.
01:25 It's several times wider and it's a square that hangs over the scene.
01:30 And based off of that, we get a relatively nice, clean result on our finished render.
01:35 Soft shadows and a good amount of lighting.
01:39 We could always add additional lights to add more color variations or just
01:42 insinuate other parts of the model. But in this case we'll just look at this
01:47 simple single point light. So if I go to Frame 2, the light is a
01:51 quarter the size, so half the size in each direction, giving it a quarter the total
01:55 surface area. And in order to compensate for this
01:59 smaller size, the Luminous Intensity has to be increased all the way up to 4.
02:05 And you notice that the lighting appears more focused.
02:08 Overall is about the same general level of lighting, but it gets more focused through
02:12 some of the hotpot areas here on the edge of the can.
02:15 And then the shadows are definitely quite a bit sharper, and that's because the
02:19 light is coming from a smaller source. Now the one problem with this is, that
02:24 when you drive your Luminous Intensity to high, you tend to introduce extra lighting
02:28 artifacts in the finished rendered. So, if we look at the Render window here
02:33 to, this is the image rendered with the larger light and the Luminous Intensity
02:38 set to 1. And it's relatively clean, soft.
02:42 There's not much in the way of visible artifacts in the background.
02:47 But sets to the smaller size and the higher illumination, you can see that we
02:51 start to get a lot of, kind of, modeled effect in the falloff.
02:56 This is going to cause you to need to increase the render quality in order to
02:59 compensate for that. So its important to use the size of your
03:04 lights to control the brightness and not just the luminous intensity.
03:07 You can think of this kind of like the lights on a football field.
03:10 They have large arrays of a lot of little lights put together.
03:13 In order to get a brighter light, you would need to have a larger array.
03:17 It wouldn't be as simple as just turning up the brightness on all of the bulbs.
03:22 In the case of rendering in 3D, that is going to cost those artifacts to appear.
03:25 So if you want brighter intensity in your lighting, it's important to consider the
03:30 size and not just the luminous intensity. By bouncing those two things, you'll be
03:34 able to get good quality in your finished renders.
03:36 Lighting with polygons can be a very effective and powerful way of creating
03:40 subtle and nuanced lighting for your product visualization scenes.
03:45 It will give you good reflected light sources that appear realistically on the
03:49 surface of your objects that have any reflectivity.
03:53 And it will also give you soft shadows that have a higher appearance of realism
03:57 that will help highlight the details in your 3D models and textures.
04:01
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Using existing models for lighting
00:02 Lighting your scene with geometry can be as simple as enabling some light based off
00:05 of the existing textures and models within your 3D scene.
00:09 In this example, you can open up the Existing_Poly_Lighting file.
00:12 And I'm going to take this cube that we have and move it just slightly up off the
00:16 ground, so that it has a little bit of space between the ground plane and the
00:19 object itself. And the other thing I'm going to do is go
00:24 to the environment and I'm going to hide the lighting.
00:28 And I'm going to set the environment to a constant black.
00:33 And if we turn off the directional light, you can see that all of the lighting is
00:37 now gone from the scene. In order to get some lighting back we can
00:41 use some polygonal or geometric lighting. I'm going to select the bottom polygon,
00:45 press the M key, and I'll just call this Light.
00:49 I'm going to kill the diffuse amounts set it down to zero.
00:52 And then in the Material Trans Properties, I'm going to go ahead and turn the
00:55 Luminous amount up to 1. Now you can see that we get this little
00:59 bit of light kind of coming out from underneath the edge of the box so if you
01:03 wanted to just highlight the area You could do that by turning on something
01:07 simple like this. If I take the entire object and move it up
01:12 a little bit farther, you can see that the light will spread a little bit further,
01:16 and will start to actually reflect onto the surface of the object.
01:22 Now going beyond this, there are some other options that we can leverage the
01:25 existing images inside of this material in order to get some light out of it.
01:31 So I'm going to go ahead and select this bottom piece here.
01:33 And I'm going to return it to the cube material so that it gets back all of the
01:37 texture properties that were inside of there.
01:42 And let's go back in here, and you can see that we have a couple of images.
01:46 We have the grayscale image that has the varying levels of gray on the triangles,
01:50 and in the video to bring text in white. And then we also have a color logo that
01:55 has just our diffused colors and also our specular and reflective colors.
02:00 So we're going to use both of these images to create Some additional lighting.
02:03 Now I'm going to right click and duplicate the specular color and I'm going to change
02:09 the effect to luminous color. Now since there's no luminous amount this
02:16 isn't doing anything yet. But I can also take, I'll just choose this
02:20 bump layer here because it uses that. Grayscale one, and I will duplicate that.
02:25 And I will change this one to luminous amount.
02:29 Now that you can see that we're getting the text lighting up, and the logo
02:32 lighting up as well. And also if you look underneath, we're
02:36 starting to get also the coloration of the logos instead of just that plain flat light.
02:41 But, if you notice, there's no light falling onto the surface of the box at
02:44 all, and that's because the light is coming from a completely flat area.
02:49 In other words it's co-planar, it's along the same plane as The rest of the surface here.
02:53 In order to get more depth out of this, it would be something like having a light
02:57 that is going to be produced from more than just a flat panel of space.
03:03 We want to give a little bit of extra depth to this area in order to have light
03:06 coming from more than just a flat Flat plain.
03:09 So, to do that, we need to add more depth to the geometry.
03:13 We can convert the bump map to a displacement map to do just that.
03:17 So, let's go to this bump map and we'll change it under Surface Shading to Displacement.
03:24 And you can see that. The text and everything is starting to
03:28 come out just a little bit. And I'm going to increase the depth of
03:32 this displacement right now, it's set relatively low, 10 millimeters.
03:36 Let's take this up to 25 millimeters so it comes out a bit farther.
03:40 And now you can see we're starting to see some of the lighting reflected on the edge
03:45 of the box. And I have the draft mode set on the displacement.
03:51 So it's not a very clean displacement. But you can see here that we're starting
03:54 to get a little bit of light produced across the surface of the object.
03:58 I gotta go into the video to brain logo for the diffuse color, and for the texture
04:03 layer, I'm going to increase my low value which is going to be my black area to
04:08 something a little bit higher, like about 20 percent.
04:15 And the more that you increase this value, the more you'll start to see some of the lighting.
04:20 Reflect onto the surface of the object. If we did this with a white colored cube,
04:24 you would see more of the light, start to spill off on here.
04:28 As it, we're just getting little bits of it.
04:30 But if i were to take this model and duplicate it.
04:34 Let's go to the items list. Cube and I'll just right-click and
04:39 duplicate it. I'm just going to take my duplicate and
04:43 slide it over to the side here. And let's give it a little bit of
04:51 rotation, and move it back just a bit, so we can see a couple of different faces in
04:56 the scene. And there we go so we're starting to see
05:01 some of that lighting affect the surface of the objects.
05:08 So using images and textures that are already existing in your scene is a good
05:11 way to start adding. Geometric, polygonal based lighting to
05:16 give you some nice effects. They can be used to accentuate logos or
05:20 brand names or they can also be used out of the view of the scene to just bring a
05:24 little bit of light into a dark scene.
05:28
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Building simple light objects
00:02 When you're dealing with simple diffused objects without a lot of reflectivity,
00:06 basic polygonal lights can be sufficient for creating a good in-depth scene.
00:12 You can simply place your polygons, apply some luminous intensity.
00:16 And then have good control over your luminous color that will control the
00:19 overall temperature or coloration of your lighting in the scene.
00:23 However, when you start to add in some reflectivity, which I'll do here.
00:28 I'm going to go to the video to bring texture here that's on the can, and I've
00:31 added just a simple material on top. I'm going to go to the material trans here.
00:35 I'm going to turn on Match Specular, and now you can see that I have some
00:38 reflections showing. This is when basic polygonal lighting can
00:42 leave a bit to be desired. If you'd like to follow along with this,
00:45 open up the Light Objects Start file. And there are a couple of important things
00:49 to notice about this file before I continue.
00:52 And the first thing is that it's been scaled down to a more exact size.
00:56 Previously, the can had been relatively large.
00:59 And if you're dealing with just polygonal lights, that isn't going to make much of a difference.
01:04 But when you're dealing with complex interactions between traditional CG lights
01:07 and polygonal lights, the actual scaling of the scene is very important.
01:11 So in this case the can is more can sized, whereas before it was about two stories high.
01:16 And the other thing is that I have also added in another model file which we'll
01:19 see here in a moment. So, with that reflectivity turned on we
01:24 can see now that our Simple shape of our polygon kind of starts to show through here.
01:30 So if we go over to items and we hide that light, scene should go black.
01:35 And I'm going to turn on this umbrella. And there are a couple of changes I'm
01:39 going to make right off the bat here before we even start looking at this.
01:43 And you can see here is our umbrella light object.
01:46 And when you're dealing with simple models, All that you need to remember when
01:49 you're creating these models is what you'll be seeing is the reflection of them.
01:53 So really it's the profile that matters. In this case, what we'll be seeing is the
01:57 overall octagonal shape of the umbrella and then the fact that there is this kind
02:00 of dark center that's going to be where the bulb would be housed.
02:06 This is also broken down into two distinct.
02:08 Materials, so there's a backing material which is going to be these polygons that
02:12 are facing towards the model here. And the polygons that would be facing
02:15 towards the umbrella that would be the bulb, those have a secondary material on them.
02:21 So lets go in here we can look and see we have.
02:23 The bounce, which is going to be the actual umbrella.
02:27 We have the bulb, which right now is turned off, and I'm going to go ahead and
02:29 open that up, because that's the first thing that we'll change, and then we have
02:32 the base, which is going to, just going to be this black, slightly reflective,
02:35 blurred reflective material. So if you happen to see it in a
02:39 reflection, it's going to look a little more realistic.
02:41 So let's go over to the render tab. And you can also see that I have a
02:45 spotlight housed in there. We'll get to that in a moment, for the
02:49 time being I have that disabled. So I'm going to go to my material trans
02:53 now for that bulb material and I'm going to change my luminous intensity up
02:56 to one. And with that you can see the bulb lights
03:00 up, and essentially what's happening is going to be hitting the umbrella and then
03:03 bouncing back down into the scene. Now, if you set this up on your own you
03:07 might notice that initially you won't get anything happening, and that's because
03:11 we're basing off of multiple bounces now. If I turn my global illumination indirect
03:16 bounces to the default of one. You'll see that my scene goes entirely black.
03:21 I get a little bit of reflection but that's all.
03:23 Because that one bounce is taken up by the light coming from here, from our bulb
03:27 hitting the umbrella and then stopping. Now with a extra bounce turned on, so we
03:32 string that up to two, now you can see that we actually get some light coming off
03:35 of that. We can make this larger now so you can see
03:38 the preview a little bit better. Now at default it's going to be relatively dark.
03:44 And if I go back here to my bold material I can always crank up this luminance intensity.
03:50 But there is a problem with that. And the problem is the same with using any
03:54 polygonal lining. Is it's going to start to introduce more
03:56 noise if you get That setting too much higher.
03:59 So if I get that somewhere where I'm comfortable, say, somewhere around ten,
04:02 where it's going to produce enough light to light the scene.
04:05 It's going to start to get really noisy around the edges.
04:08 Now, depending on your scene, that might be okay, and you might not even notice the noise.
04:12 But if you want to get cleaner lighting, there's another way of doing this.
04:15 I'm going to go ahead and back this down to luminous intensity of one.
04:19 And, I'm going to look now at the bounce material.
04:23 And I'm going to look at the material rev and you can see that right now, it just
04:26 has a slightly off-white color to it. And the diffuse amount is set to 100%.
04:31 While I could easily increase this number, without having as much of an impact on the
04:35 render quality. So, if I take this up to, say, just to
04:39 start, 200%. You can see that the scene gets lighter
04:42 but we're not getting a lot more rendering artifacts showing up.
04:45 I can take this up ever farther to 500 and again, we'll see that it's increasing the
04:49 amount of lighting without having a super adverse affect on the amount of artifacts
04:53 in the scene. Now the problem with doing it this way is
04:57 similar, though, because really what we're doing is making a light much, much, much
05:00 brighter when we could just make it larger.
05:03 So let's go ahead here And I'm going to set this back down to 100 for now.
05:09 And them I'm going to look back here, I'm going to select my object and I'm just
05:15 going to use the scale tool here. And I'm going to set my action center to
05:22 selection, and then just scale this up. To make it larger, and you can see that
05:27 the bigger this gets, the brighter it lights up the scene.
05:32 Now you also notice though that it's going to start affecting the scene itself,
05:35 because now this ball is large and it's bouncing off the edge of the wall there,
05:38 so you start to see a little light spill there.
05:42 So you have to be a little careful with your aiming?
05:44 But this can really help to increase the amount of lighting.
05:46 And then I can also go back, to my bounce material, and adjust my diffuse amount,
05:50 we'll go up to 200%, and you can see you start to see differences.
05:56 This can work well if you are using multiple lights or if you are.
06:00 Just looking for, kind of, subtle, soft lighting or if you have really large
06:03 objects to handle your lighting. If however, you want to be able to get
06:07 more control over this, and also decrease your render times, there is another way of
06:11 doing it. It requires a little bit more setup but,
06:15 is well worth the effort. I'm going to go ahead and take my bulb,
06:18 here, and turn off the illumination for now.
06:22 So I'm going to take my luminous intensity and just put it down to 0.
06:25 Again, our scene'll go black. And now, what I'm going to do is, I'm
06:29 going to go over to my layout tab, so that I can see everything here.
06:36 I have all of my texture locators in the way here so, I'm just going to press the O
06:39 key and uncheck texture locators. I'm just going to clean up my scene a
06:44 little bit. And now I'm going to scroll down here
06:46 where I have this spot light and the spot light is actually a child of the umbrella.
06:50 And when I turn it on you'll see that it is right inside the bulb here.
06:57 Now, this can be a problem if you need to have any shadows cast off of this.
07:03 So that's just something to keep in mind here.
07:05 I'm going to set my Action Center to Automatic and select my Spot Light.
07:11 And you have to make sure that this scale is Back to 100% here.
07:19 That way I can see where that bulb is. It was really small before.
07:23 So now I select my light here. You want to make sure that you're in item
07:27 mode or you won't be able to actually select and move the light, and then you
07:31 can see that I can move this, if I want to use shadows based off of this.
07:36 So if I want to have like a wall behind this light or something like that.
07:40 You have to make sure that you are keeping your light in front of the actual bulb
07:45 mesh here. So I would have to move it up so that the
07:48 focal point of the light is in front of the mesh.
07:51 Otherwise I can just sink it back in there.
07:53 And then I have this set up so that the cone of the light of this spotlight is
07:58 just falling just inside of the umbrella itself.
08:03 So now if we click over to our light, you can see that this is coming out really,
08:06 really bright so far. So there are a couple of things to adjust,
08:09 so I'm going to go to my bounce material. And just reset the diffuse amount to 100%.
08:16 There you can already see that this is working pretty nicely.
08:18 And then I'm going to go down to my spotlight, and you can get good control
08:22 over the brightness of the light now just by looking at your spotlight's intensity.
08:28 So you can see right here I have it set to six.
08:30 I can back this off to the default, which is three.
08:33 And you can see I get a relatively nice amount of light, plus we're getting a good
08:36 amount of bounce off of the, the surrounding environment.
08:40 And the cool thing about this is since we had already turned up the number of
08:43 bounces to two, we are getting all of the bounce play off of the scene.
08:47 In here without having to increase our render bounces.
08:50 So if I go back to Global Illumination here and turn this back down to one, this
08:53 is going to be a bit more like we're actually seeing with the polygonal lighting.
08:57 Only is that we aren't getting the fill light coming from the scene.
09:01 So using a well-placed. Traditional CG light will help you to get
09:05 extra bounces and extra illumination in your scene without having to overly
09:09 increase this number of indirect bounces. So I can turn that up one more, back to two.
09:15 You can see that I get a relatively nice amount of fill, and all I've placed is a
09:18 single umbrella light. And I could also decrease the intensity here.
09:22 To get good control over this and add in multiple lights to balance out my light differently.
09:28 And so you can control very easily the brightness of the light with the light
09:32 itself and then you can go to your bounce material here and control the coloration
09:36 of your scene just by changing the temperature.
09:42 For the color of your bounce material. So this is going to be like bouncing the
09:46 light off of a more warm colored material or bouncing it off a cooler color material.
09:53 You can get good control over your lighting that way and you're separating
09:56 out the color with the actual brightness of the light this will give you a little
09:59 bit more control in fine tuning. Also increase the speed and quality of
10:04 your finish renders.
10:05
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Using images with polygonal lighting
00:02 Using images in conjunction with more complex polygonal lighting will help you
00:06 to get even more fine-tuned control over the actual shape, coloration, and
00:10 intensity of your lights. If you open up the Light_Images_Start
00:16 file, you'll have our umbrella light that has a simple UV attached that's really
00:20 just on the umbrella because that's the only place we're going to bake light here.
00:25 And what we can do is if I turn on Ray GL, you can get a good quick idea of what's
00:29 going on here. You can see that the light from our
00:33 spotlight is shining up onto this umbrella and falling off towards the edges.
00:39 We're also picking up a little bit of the coloration of the actual diffuse material.
00:44 And overall, that's going to give us what we need in order to create a good, simple
00:48 start for our image texture on this polygonal light.
00:53 So I'm just going to go up to Render > Bake to Render Outputs.
00:58 And I have my render size set to just 512 by 512, so it's relatively small.
01:04 It's going to bake pretty quickly. So, then, I'm going to go ahead and just
01:10 save that image, which I'll put down here. (SOUND) And I'll put that in my images
01:16 file, and we'll call this (SOUND) Umbrella Bake.
01:22 (SOUND) And I'll just hop over to Photoshop, where I will open that up.
01:26 So there you can see that I have that really simple baked object.
01:30 There's a little bit of, kind of, undulation in the bake.
01:33 And that's actually okay because that's going to give just the effect of a little
01:36 bit of simple material imperfection. So we won't even worry about smoothing
01:41 that out at all. And now, you could take this and do as
01:45 much work as you want right here inside Photoshop.
01:48 So I want to, let me just put in a grid here so I can get into the center.
01:54 So, if I wanted to make an ellipse in the middle, we're going to kind of mimic what
01:58 was going on with the light anyway. And let's put this on a new layer.
02:03 I'll just fill that with black and I'll blur it just a little bit.
02:07 (SOUND) Just a little bit of a Gaussian blur there.
02:11 So it gets a little bit softer. And I could also, obviously, decrease the
02:14 intensity of that to get a little bit of a light bleed coming around.
02:18 So we still get a little bit of white coming out of that center.
02:21 Again, you get a little bit more control here.
02:22 So, let's go ahead and I'm just going to save that and it's going to save out now
02:26 as a PSD file. So I'm going to call this Umbrella_Lum now
02:30 (SOUND) because it's our luminous color. And then, we'll go back into Modo.
02:36 And we will hide this. And what I'm going to do in order to make
02:39 this a little bit easier to work with is I'm just going to take this umbrella and
02:42 I'm going to duplicate it. Not duplicate hierarchy, just duplicate it.
02:46 And then I'm going to hide the first umbrella.
02:49 And then, here on this duplicate, I'm going to select this bulb and get rid of it.
02:53 So now I can apply a new (SOUND) umbrella texture.
02:57 (SOUND) And, first, it's not going to have anything on there, just going to have my
03:02 previous properties, but if we go back over to our render tab and I open this up,
03:08 I can go ahead and add a layer. Now load an image and we'll get that
03:15 umbrella loom and we'll apply that. Now first it's going to come in diffuse
03:19 color like always I just wanted to change that.
03:22 I can use either luminous amount or luminous color.
03:24 I'm going to use luminous color in this case, so that I can just control the intensity.
03:31 Let's turn off my diffuse amount here. Then I can just set my luminous intensity
03:38 up to one. If I need to get more lighting out of
03:41 that, that's easy to do. I can also increase my Luminous Intensity
03:45 or I can map that luminous color to luminous intensity.
03:49 But, again remember, if you're dealing with having to go to really high luminous
03:52 values, you should probably consider making your light larger because that's
03:56 going to. Adversely affect the overall look of your
04:01 scene with rendering artifacts. So I've got this here.
04:07 I'm going to take my can, and I'm going to turn off the blurry reflections for right
04:11 now so that we can get a more clear representation of this.
04:16 So you can see there's our light and it's nicely reflected in there.
04:20 And we're getting a really similar effect to what we had with the actual modeled light.
04:26 But now, I can easily go back into Photoshop and let's say I decide that I
04:32 want some kind of simple spokes going through here.
04:40 (BLANK_AUDIO) So if I just go in here with a small brush, and I'm just going to
04:44 create some real simple, kind of, spokes here.
04:49 And I'm just going to paint this on through.
04:51 You can do these obviously however you would like.
04:56 but I'm just doing it kind of quickly here.
04:58 okay so we got something like that. And then I'm going to take my opacity on
05:01 this one and increase it so I get something that's relatively even.
05:04 And then I'll also just going to blur those out a little actually.
05:07 I'll blur those a little bit more, so they kind of soften out.
05:10 There we go. So, the nice thing is, is dealing with a
05:13 layered Photoshop file, I can just go in, make some changes to an indiviudal layer,
05:16 save the file, hop back into Modo and it's going to auto-update.
05:20 And now, if we let this update, you can check it out, we can actually now start to
05:23 see those little spokes start to appear. This can be really, really powerful
05:29 because you can even change things to simulate having multiple colors or
05:32 multiple bulbs. So if for example, I wanted to, just get
05:37 this background, I want to get a simple selection here on one side.
05:42 And let's just say I want to go and. I'll just adjust the hue on this and pull
05:49 it back to warm up one side. Let's see if I can find some orangish
05:54 kind of color here and get a little bit more saturation.
05:58 (SOUND) (INAUDIBLE) for something about like that.
06:02 Mm, yeah. Think that'll do.
06:04 Now you're, something like that. I'm not going to get crazy with
06:07 adjustments here but you get the idea. So now, half of this is cool.
06:12 Half of this is warm. So again, we'll save the file.
06:15 Go back over to Modo. It will auto update and now we're getting
06:18 a little bit of kind of warm on this side, a little bit of cool on this side.
06:23 All within one light, without having to make any big adjustments.
06:26 So using images either based off of bait lighting that's already in your scene, or
06:30 just by painting them manually, you can get good control over what you're doing
06:33 with your light environments. It just gives you another option for
06:38 creating the lighting that you want to really, really make your object pop out of
06:41 your scene. There's no one right way to do it but by
06:45 mastering multiple techniques you'll be able to more easily create the lighting
06:48 scenaro that you need for your particular product visualization.
06:52
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Rendering with polygonal lighting
00:02 When it comes to rendering your scenes using polygonal lighting, the overall
00:05 settings are relatively easy to balance and adjust.
00:08 But there are a few things that you should look out for.
00:10 If you open up the Poly_Light_Rendering file, you'll get something that has some
00:13 initial, very rough render settings. I'm going to go ahead and just fire off a
00:17 quick render here. And you can see, with this, I have all of
00:20 my settings, kind of, at default or lower. As far as global illumination goes, I only
00:27 have 64 rays, which is very low. The default is 256.
00:31 You can see that the effect on the background is just kind of splotchy, a
00:33 little messy look. And here, across the can, even, we start
00:37 to see this kind of vertical striation happening.
00:40 And then, underneath the lip here we get some real kind of rough noisy artifacts.
00:45 Now render time is relatively quick, only 17 seconds for this frame.
00:48 But we can look at how to improve this. And the thing that you might look at doing
00:52 first, and this is kind of a common thing, is to just go take the radiance rays and
00:55 just bump it up. Now you can do that, but that's going to
00:59 have a relatively deleterious effect on your render times.
01:02 Now you can get good quality that way, but even upping that number to something very
01:06 high, like 1024 or 2048, is going to still leave some artifacts that we can improve
01:11 in other ways. So let's start by looking down here at the
01:16 Irradiance values. So, let's look first at the Interpolation values.
01:20 And this is going to be how the individual light rays are smoothed between each
01:24 other, or rather how the samples are smoothed between each other when they
01:27 light our surfaces. So if I take this Interpolation values and
01:32 drive it from 1, which is the default, all the way up to 8.
01:35 Let's go ahead and render again. And we should see a very, very minor
01:39 affect on the render time. But a relatively solid affect on the
01:43 overall quality of the finished image. Already you can see that those vertical
01:47 striations are gone from the can. And that the background is looking
01:51 somewhat cleaner. We still have a lot of this blotchiness
01:54 under here. And if we look at the difference between
01:57 this frame and this frame, there is a marked difference, and we've only gone
02:01 from 17.2 seconds up to 18 seconds, so a relatively good increase in quality for
02:04 only a very minor increase in render time. So that's going to be the first think that
02:11 you'll want to do on your scenes is just increase that interpolation value...
02:16 Its going to give you a nice smoother overall result without having a much
02:19 larger render time. And then, from there we can start to
02:22 increase some of the other values. So I'm going to start with the irradiance
02:26 rays which I'm going to just double to 128.
02:29 And then we'll render again. And this will go a long way towards
02:34 cleaning up a lot of the background splotchiness.
02:36 Already can see that the background it looking much smoother.
02:39 And overall is looking pretty nice and clean.
02:43 We may want to go up one more step to something like 256 but that can be
02:46 something that you decide on your own scene-by-scene basis.
02:51 So, the thing that is not much cleaner here, if we look between this one, or yes,
02:55 we do have some background splotchiness, and this one, where it's cleaned up for
02:58 the most part. But if we look here underneath the lip of
03:03 the can, we've got this kind of splotchiness here, which really hasn't
03:07 cleared up too much underneath the lip, so we've gone up from also 18 seconds up to
03:11 19.2 seconds. So, a little bit of an increase but
03:16 definitely not terrible. What you may want to do is, once more,
03:20 just go and bump up the irradiance rays. But just to show you how this works, let's
03:24 go ahead and increase this all the way up to 1024 and we'll go ahead and fire off a render.
03:29 Now, as this goes you'll notice that the actual Irradiance cache is going to be
03:32 slower because it's having to gather more samples.
03:36 But as it goes through and collects those light samples, you're going to be higher quality.
03:43 So the background now is going to look very smooth.
03:46 The front of the can, which was already smooth, is looking nice and smooth still.
03:50 And then as we get up underneath the lip, into these kind of tighter areas.
03:53 This is where you're going to see a really big improvement on the overall quality.
03:57 You can see that this is smoothed out significantly.
04:00 There's still a little bit of blotchiness, but it's much better.
04:02 Now the down side is that we have nearly the render time Almost 36 seconds, now, 36
04:06 seconds is a pretty fast render time but I'm only rendering at a low resolution at
04:09 this point. If you're rendering for print or any other
04:14 kinds of destinations, then you're going to want to increase your resolution
04:17 and, of course, that doubling in render time is going to double as well.
04:21 So if you're having a 2 hour render time for a large image, it's going to bump up
04:24 to 4. So that's not always going to be your best option.
04:28 You can see that the differences, other than, the areas of really, kind of.
04:32 Fine detail, or relatively small. The background looks a little bit
04:35 smoother, but not much. There's before, and there's after.
04:37 But really the only place we're seeing some big improvement is here, and that
04:41 leads us now to one other place that we can look for, increasing the quality
04:44 without increasing the render time too much.
04:48 So I'm going to take my irradiance arrays and I'm going to back those back down, I'm
04:51 going to go all the way down to 128, where we were before this render.
04:54 And the irradiance rate and the radiance ratio will give you kind of a place where
04:59 you can balance a kind of a three-way balance between speed, smoothness, and accuracy.
05:06 So if I decrease the irradiance rate, it's going to make those sample sizes smaller.
05:12 It's going to make the render more accurate.
05:14 But it's also going to make it splotchier. Which means that I'll have to increase my
05:18 number of rays in order to get something clean.
05:21 At a default of 2.5, it's relatively clean.
05:24 But it's also going to be relatively splotchy, unless you increase the number
05:27 of (INAUDIBLE) rates. So what I'm going to do is, I'm going to
05:31 take this number, and actually drive it up.
05:33 It's going to decrease my overall accuracy slightly.
05:37 But I can always go back and get that accuracy in different ways.
05:40 So, let's go here and I'm going to increase this.
05:42 I'll just double it to five. Now, when you increase your radiance rate
05:45 you should note that the radiance ratio also needs to be changed correspondingly
05:49 in order to optimize your render times. The radiance rate and the ratio actually
05:54 multiply by each other, in order to get your finished number of rays on kind of
05:57 large, open areas that don't require a lot of detail.
06:02 So, since I've doubled this, I've effectively doubled the amount of rays,
06:04 even in these big, flat areas the don't need the extra detail.
06:08 So, what I'm going to do is take my ratio and decrease it.
06:10 I'll also cut it in half to three, and that's going to gimme kind of a similar
06:14 balance in render time that I had Before adjusting these values at all.
06:19 With that, let's go ahead and render that one off.
06:21 And now you'll notice that, just like in the previous renders, we're going to get
06:25 pretty quick passes initially, here. And then as this comes through, background
06:29 is nice and smooth, and you can see down here where this wasn't too splotchy, is
06:32 pretty clean. But up here on the lip of the can We can
06:37 see some really nice, clean, smooth rendering.
06:42 Now, if we look at the version that was done at really high levels, at, 1024 rays,
06:46 pretty smooth, but actually you get a little bit of splotchiness happening right
06:49 in here, underneath the lip. On this one, it's almost completely
06:54 smoothed out. And the difference is we've gone from 35.8
06:58 seconds all the way back down to 19.4 seconds.
07:02 So, as I mentioned, this is going to be a big balance between Speed, accuracy, and
07:06 overall smoothness and lack of noise. You'll want to adjust these on a per scene
07:11 setting and on a per object setting in order to get the best possible quality.
07:17 Not all objects are going to need a lot of detail lighting because they may not have
07:20 small crevice areas like underneath this lip or little areas like this underneath
07:23 the bottom of the can. Some are going to have more and there are
07:27 always going to be some models that are just going to require really long render
07:31 times in order to look good. But by optimizing these settings one at a
07:36 time, you can get to the highest possible quality, or the necessary quality, without
07:40 having to spend enormous amounts of time in rendering.
07:44 So, adjusting first your interpolation values, then looking at your arrays in
07:48 order to smooth out the background, and then adjusting the rate and ratio will
07:51 help you to get a good quality without spending loads of time waiting on finished renders.
07:57
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6. Creating Painted Environments
Intro to painted environments
00:02 In the real world, light comes from sources that don't have a single solid
00:05 color or a single solid color temperature even.
00:09 We can be dealing with individual lights inside of a studio and they can have some
00:14 variations in their color. There's also the possibility of more
00:18 natural light, say, like a window that have light coming in that will be
00:22 comprised of the color of the sky, the color of any sunlight coming in, the color
00:25 of anything that is in the environment outside, and all those things flooding
00:28 into the internal environment. As you can see, even with this simple
00:35 example that has the painted texture on the luminous umbrella.
00:40 Just by changing out, (SOUND) removing the image and going to a straight white
00:44 umbrella, there is a definite noticeable drop in the realism of this light spot
00:49 here the, in the reflection. And then, the light overall becomes a
00:54 little bit harsher and less nuanced. Just by turning on that single image, we
01:00 get a little bit more realism added into the lighting scenario.
01:05 Now, Modo has a good solution for creating good, naturalistic lighting environments.
01:11 And we can use simple presets right now (INAUDIBLE) in the studio presets in the
01:16 environments folder. And if I throw in just a simple studio
01:21 environment, you can see if we go over to the texture.
01:26 Down here, we go down to environment and I open up, oops, looks like I had two on here.
01:33 So let's go ahead and turn that one off. We'll open up this environment that has
01:38 the HDR studio texture in it. You can see that it's just a simple,
01:42 spherical texture that has three different colored lights, a warm, a cool, and a
01:46 neutral light, an overhead light. And then, kind of a vertical light just
01:52 giving a little bit of neutrality between the warm and the cool lights.
01:57 And there's also some bounced reflection of the light that, as what we see up in
02:01 this area. Now the problem is, is that, one, this is
02:04 a little bit on the abstract side when it comes to creating it for your specific envirionment.
02:11 Creating lighting that uses one of these means that you need to paint in a, an
02:17 unwrapped state. So that can be a little bit difficult.
02:22 And the other problem is is that there is no real direct way to edit these.
02:25 We can rotate them or change the overall brightness and intensity.
02:31 For example, I could just go to my environment here and change the intensity
02:34 to 0.75. And you can see the entire thing decrease
02:38 in intensity. But overall there isn't a huge amount of
02:41 control given us over what happens within the slide environment.
02:46 If you don't find a preset in one of the categories that fits your needs, or you
02:50 can't find one online, then you're relatively stuck as far as what you can do
02:54 for your particular scene. If you want to have direct control over
03:00 all of the different light intensities and colors in your scene, then you have to
03:04 either create individual lights, or you have to be able to paint them more directly.
03:11 So, creating your own painted environment is a powerful way to get good subtle,
03:16 nuanced lighting, and also have perfect control over where you place different
03:21 color values to properly highlight the particular model that you're visualizing.
03:29
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Setting up the environment
00:02 Initially setting up a scene to create painted environments can be a little frustrating.
00:06 So it's important to take a few things into account when you build the scene that
00:10 you're going to paint in. So if you'd like to follow along, you can
00:14 open up the Painted Environment Start file, and in that you will have.
00:18 A simple scene with just our background, our can, and then also it has a paint can camera.
00:29 And that's the camera that we're going to use its perspective from when painting the
00:33 actual environment. So what we'll need is a sphere to catch
00:38 the environment paint, a camera set up so that we can look at the sphere in a good
00:42 way in order to be able to really gauge where the paint should go, and then a
00:46 little bit of editing to the actual. Layout of modo to be able to see what we
00:53 need to be able to see as we create the paint.
00:57 So, with that said, let's go ahead and start by dropping in a sphere, and that's
01:02 going to come in here just as sphere, which I'm going to rename birosphere, so
01:06 we'll know what it is, and I'm going to make sure that I'm in polygon mode.
01:13 And I'm just going to select this sphere, and in poly mode, I'm going to scale it up.
01:17 The reason I'm scaling it in poly mode is so that we get a relatively good baseline
01:21 scale, and then I can always go back in item mode and scale it up more or less,
01:25 but this is going to give me something as start point that we can come back to.
01:31 So, about 700% ought to do it for the sake of this scene.
01:35 So I'm going to press Q to drop my tool. F to flip the polygons so that they're
01:38 facing in. And then M to add a new material.
01:41 Which I'll call Environment Sphere. And at first here I'm going to leave the
01:45 diffuse and specular all at default. eventually everything will be zeroed out
01:50 except for the luminous values so that this will be a, an environment sphere.
01:54 So it's actually casting light. Just like an environment preset would.
01:58 So let's go ahead and click OK on that. And Then we're going to hop over to the
02:02 set up tab and what we'll do here is create a locator that's going to stand
02:07 kind of in the middle of the object, in this case the can.
02:13 And then we will parent our camera to that.
02:18 But we won't directly parent it because then You wouldn't be able to use any
02:21 rotational values. Another reason it will create a locator
02:25 and tie in the position of the camera to the locator is so that the camera will
02:28 stay centered in the middle of our scene and you can rotate and look around all you want.
02:35 And it's always going to snap back to the middle of the scene and give you a good
02:38 kind of bird's eye view perspective to paint from.
02:42 So, let's go ahead in here, and I'm just going to click on this button in the upper
02:46 left to add in a locator. Let's just zoom on in there.
02:53 And I'm going to place this just kind of up at the top of the can.
02:58 Somewhere around here and, that's just going to be a good place to look from here.
03:04 Right and the next thing that I'm going to do is I'm going to select my paint camera,
03:07 and I'm going to open up the channel links.
03:10 When you open up channel links, you'll see that Paintcam has opened up as the driven.
03:15 And I want to take my locator here Which I'll rename, camera lock, and with that
03:21 selected I'm going to load that as the driver.
03:26 So the position values, we're only going to do position, of the camera lock
03:30 locator are going to. Governed the position of the paint camera itself.
03:36 So I'm going to select position X and position X and add link.
03:40 Position Y and position Y and add link. Position Z and position Z and add link.
03:46 And then we'll close this up. And I'm going to press O so that I can
03:49 make sure that I can see my cameras. And now you'll see that we have the camera
03:54 right in the middle of the scene. And right now the camera looks really big.
04:00 you don't need to do anything about that just depending on the scale of your scene.
04:04 But the effects could be cumbersome and hard to see.
04:06 you can always go to Display. Select the camera and set the size.
04:11 You can see that you can change the size and you can change.
04:14 In the way it draws in view port. The problem is if you make it too small
04:18 and then zoom out it's hard to visualize. So, I'm going to press Zero and just zero
04:22 that out and now it's going to remain that size no matter how far in or out I zoom,
04:25 and since I'm here, I'm going to go ahead and do the same thing with my regular
04:29 camera, and that way. As I'm looking at this scene kind of from
04:35 an outer perspective, I can still tell where my cameras are.
04:39 Alright, so now, if I switch over from perspective to my paint cam, you can see
04:42 that now I'm in the middle of this environment.
04:46 So, if I use the Opt or Alt key on a PC, and I use the Left Mouse button to look
04:50 around, you can see that I'm staying right here in the center of the object.
04:57 Which you would expect if you're using the Right Mouse button anyway.
04:59 But if I hold Opt or Alt and do the Left Mouse button, see that I can move away
05:04 from that center perspective. But as soon as I release, it's going to
05:08 drop me right back into the middle. And the other nice thing about this is
05:11 that if I decide that, well, my position 's a little bit off, I'm getting too much
05:13 of the lip, kind of interfering with my view.
05:16 I can just take My locator, let's go back to the perspective so this is a little
05:20 easier to read, and drag it up. And you can see the camera goes right
05:25 along with it, so then I can just hop back over to my paint cam, and there we go, so
05:28 now I've still got the lip in the way a little bit, but that's all right.
05:32 So overall this is going to be a setup that's going to help you see where your
05:36 scene is, and if you want to keep everything really good and easy to read.
05:42 I also recommend going to shading options and changing your inactive message to flat shade.
05:47 That way they will still be visible but, at the same time, it's going to be easier
05:52 to recognize the actual sphere that we'll be painting on.
05:57 And, then, usually I would go with advanced open GL for the rest of the scene there.
06:06 So, there we go we've got this set up and the last thing to do is going to be create
06:09 an image to paint on. So, at the top over to the shader tree,
06:13 open up render and I'm going to open up this environments sphere and select in
06:17 here add image map, new image. And I could just add a regular Targa file
06:22 and if it's acting as my luminous color That would be okay, because it;s going to
06:26 pick up the color. The problem is is that I'm only going to
06:30 get a certain level of brightness out of that image.
06:32 So, I want to choose something high dynamic range.
06:35 So, let's go down here and I'm going to choose, Open EXR float 32 bit and I'll
06:41 call this Painted Enviro 1. Just in case I want to have more and I'll
06:47 click Save. And resolution does not have to be super
06:51 high on these. You could paint it 248 by 248, and that's fine.
06:55 I'll probably leave it at that for right now.
06:57 But then the other thing that I'm going to do here is set the initial color to black.
07:02 And then I'm going to set my mode. I don't need the alpha so I'm just
07:06 going to change it to RGB, and click OK. And that's going to drop in here at first
07:10 as a diffuse color. I want to right click and change that to
07:14 luminous color. And then in my material I'm going to go
07:18 over to my properties, material trans, and I want to change my luminous intensity up
07:22 to one. And then for right now I'm going to leave
07:27 my diffuse amount up just so that I can see Where it is I'm painting.
07:32 If I want I could turn that all the way down to zero and I'm going to get black.
07:36 If you like that and you have a scene that has enough contrast in the environment so
07:39 you can still see what's going on, yeah, that's totally fine.
07:42 You can make that black. As a matter of fact, in this scene I've
07:44 got enough so I'm going to leave it there. But if you don't have enough contrast and
07:47 it's hard to see your environment I reccomend leaving your diffuse amount up
07:50 while you're painting and so the last thing that I'm going to do here is go over
07:53 to my paint view. And I'm going to press the O key and I'm
07:58 going to get rid of much of this clutter. I'm going to hide locators and textual
08:01 locators make sure that lights and cameras are all invisible.
08:05 And I'm going to do the same thing here where I change my inactive meshes to flat
08:08 shade and then we're going to change from perspective to paint camera and now we're
08:12 here, we're ready to paint. If I simply go here and select this
08:18 painted envirornment, you'll see that I am indeed Ready to start painting on it.
08:25 So if I just paint a little line here you can see yup.
08:29 I can start painting on my environment. So now we're set to create a good painted
08:33 environment for the object. And this kind of a set up will be very
08:39 helpful for creating these. Environments, especially initially.
08:43 You can always switch to a perspective view, if you want, in order to see a
08:46 particular angle on your environment. But this way you'll be able to know where
08:50 the light is coming from in relation to your scene and relation to your object.
08:55 It'll help you to make this process a little more simple and painless.
08:58
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Painting your lighting
00:02 When you have a painted environment all set up and ready to paint on, you can
00:05 actually just jump in and start painting. If you'd like to follow along with this,
00:10 you can open up the Painted Environment Set file, and that will have everything
00:13 all set up with a good camera and locator, and then also your environment and
00:16 everything all ready to paint on. I'm going to go ahead here.
00:21 And I'm just going to start by throwing down a little bit of simple paint so I'm
00:24 going to get an airbrush with kind of a medium solid brush here.
00:28 And I'm going to make it the size of a nice big light over here.
00:32 And I'm just going to go ahead and click, we'll see that, there that circle drops
00:36 right on the environment there. Now this might be a little bit difficult
00:40 to visualize how the end result is going to be.
00:42 So what I'm going to do is hold the control key.
00:45 And then I'm going to click and drag to the right, here in my, 3d viewport.
00:51 And when you click and drag holding the Ctrl key on these little orange dots,
00:54 it'll actually let you split off, the viewport, in the direction that you drag.
00:58 So if you click and drag to the right it will divide it horizontally.
01:01 If you click and drag down, it will divide it vertically.
01:04 So, now with this here, I'm going to go ahead and change this view from the paint
01:08 camera to the regular camera. I could just use Ray GL and just flip this
01:14 on here. I have my Ray GL set up to really kind of
01:16 fast setting, so it's very low resolution. It's just going to give me kind of the
01:21 general idea of lighting, or you could just also hop over and change this under
01:25 application to a preview window, and then you're going to get the full preview render.
01:30 I find that I like to have my preview set up in a pretty high quality, and by
01:34 keeping my ray GL set up lower under modo in preferences or on windows under.
01:41 System in preferences I'm going to go down here to my (UNKNOWN) which is under
01:45 display and you can see that I have my resolution set to a quarter.
01:50 And in this case I want to change it to synchronous so its going to constantly
01:53 keep that updated. And then my quality you can set it to
01:57 anything and its really not going to matter its just going to be how much its
01:59 going to refine. If you leave it.
02:02 If you find that it's taking more of hit on your processor than you want it to, you
02:05 can always turn that down. But it should be fine at extended
02:09 refinement passes, but just having it quarter resolution is going to help a lot.
02:13 So let's go ahead and close that. And then I'm going to change this back to
02:18 a 3-D model view. And then, again, I'm going to change this
02:22 to my camera. And then I'm going to, if it comes out
02:25 like this, I'm going to change all of my inactive meshes to flat shade.
02:31 And, actually, I'm also going to go here and go to shade options and turn off my wireframe.
02:36 And here press the O key, turn off locators and texture locators so that I
02:39 have a nice clean view here. And actually let's also go in and I'm
02:43 going to turn off the work plane and the grid we'll just leave it like that.
02:47 So now if I click on (UNKNOWN) and see that I've got everything in here.
02:53 Except it appears my wireframe came back. So let's go ahead and turn that off.
02:56 There we go. So now I have this kind of nice, low
03:02 resolution preview. So, if I go in here, and I'm going to
03:04 select now the soft edged brush, and I'm just going to scale that down.
03:05 And, if I have my blend mode set to normal, that's not really going to change
03:09 much by doing this, but, if I change this to add, since this is a high dynamic range
03:13 image, I can really go beyond just regular range here.
03:18 If I continue to click in the middle, it's going to get more and more intensity.
03:21 And actually, I'm going to blow this out a little bit more, and I'm going to click
03:23 again and it's going to add a little bit more halo around that light.
03:26 You can see now that I get my update here in relatively close to real time, and that
03:30 way I can look and see how my lighting is coming out.
03:34 Really, really quickly. I don't really like the way that that came
03:37 out so I'm just going to go ahead, grab my solid brush here, I'm going to change my
03:40 foreground color to black and my mode back to normal.
03:43 And I get a big brush here and just kind of paint all that out.
03:47 And we should see everything go black. So, now the nice thing about this is you
03:50 can adjust this really pretty easily. Right now I have my color swatch set up as
03:55 my light temperature. You can also just click on this color
04:00 swatch over here and change it back to like HSV if you want.
04:05 And anything that you change here in these pop-up color pickers will also show up here.
04:11 Now I'm just going to make this pretty obvious on colors.
04:14 I mean I'm going to put a bunch of blue over here.
04:18 And then I'm going to get a smaller brush here and I'm going to change this to add
04:22 And I'm just going to paint in a little bit more intensity in the middle.
04:28 And at first, obviously this things are going to come out very, very blue but the
04:32 more intensity I add into the center here, I'm just going to go ahead and add a whole
04:36 bunch right in the very middle of it, the more it's going to lighten up and add less here.
04:43 So not let's rotate around here to the other side, and I'm going to pick a nice
04:49 kind of warm color and I'm just going to create kind of a little bit of warm
04:54 background over here. Okay, and then let's go for something a
05:01 little more neutral. Look up towards the top here and oops,
05:05 that's a little bit of a big brush, and I'm just going to paint in kind of some
05:08 white color over the top. Alright, so this isn't a very obvious and
05:13 harsh colored example, but you can see here in my scene I've got my warm colors
05:17 on the left, I've got my more cool colors on the right, I've got the neutral color
05:21 coming up from the top. It's a nice, simple environment.
05:29 Now I do have complete control over what is going on with this.
05:33 So, if I want to, I'm going to go ahead and change this to perspective for just a second.
05:39 And I'm going to get myself a nice big, strong brush that I'm going to change to black.
05:44 And I'm once again just going to knock all this out, oops.
05:46 Also I changed my Blend mode back to black.
05:53 You can also use images in order to paint right through those using Image Ink.
06:01 So let me just finish getting this out or mostly out.
06:04 So I'm going to change back here to my paint camera, and let's lit off to the
06:10 left-hand side here. Now I am very zoomed-out at this point.
06:16 If I hold option or alt and the control key and then right mouse button I can zoom
06:19 in and it's going to give me less of a fish-eyed view.
06:23 So that might help depending on how you want to paint here.
06:26 But what I'm going to do now is grab a Paint Brush and then I'm going to turn on
06:30 Image Ink. And then down here in the bottom I'm going
06:35 to go to Image Ink and you can see here I have a bunch of different Paths here.
06:41 By default you're just going to have the Assets path, which is just going to have
06:43 anything that's inside your assets file. I also always choose to add a path and I
06:49 create in my pictures folder just on my main hard drive I create an external
06:53 images file. And that way I have something that's right there.
06:57 It's quick and handy in my desktop for me to throw images into.
07:01 In this case I've just tossed in the one landscape image here.
07:04 And then I have those readily available for me to go and grab for painting.
07:08 That way I don't have to be constantly adding in paths just because I want to
07:11 have a new image. You can just toss some more images into
07:14 that folder and I'm ready to go. So now you can see I've got this landscape
07:18 here, and I'm going to click it first. And I'm going to undo 'cause I probably go
07:21 a little bit of paint coming through that. And I'm just going to create kind of a
07:25 simple window over here. So I just want to get this kind of lined up.
07:30 Let me get my camera kind of in a nice position here.
07:35 Make sure Repeat is turned off so it won't go beyond the borders here.
07:38 Now let's go ahead and get a nice brush size.
07:42 And I'm going to set my foreground color up to white because it's going to paint
07:45 straight through. And if I have another color, it's going to
07:48 tint that. so I'm going to start here just by.
07:52 Clicking and painting off this initial shape.
07:55 And you can see now I'm getting the light on my scene.
07:58 And it's coming from this kind of pretend window over here.
08:02 If I change my blend mode here to Add, I can go ahead and grab a softer brush.
08:09 And then, if I wanted to, I could just kind of paint a little through the middle.
08:13 And it's just going to add the colors back on top of each other.
08:16 So it's just going to increase the color intensity of this.
08:19 So you don't even have to have high dynamic range images to be able to paint
08:22 this kind of thing in here. You can just use regular old images like that.
08:27 So now I'm going to press Q and Escape a couple times to get my tool set all
08:30 cleared out. paintbrush again.
08:34 I'm going to change the blend mode to normal.
08:36 And get a black paintbrush here. Then I'm just going to scale this down.
08:41 And I'm going to add some kind of simple window frame here.
08:43 So let's just paint through here. Ooh, I don't have my tablet turned on.
08:47 So pardon the not quite straight lines. I'm painting with a mouse, so I apologize.
08:52 There we go. That gives me kind of the appearance of
08:54 some window. You'll probably see that in a higher
08:56 resolution render, but this is really low res, but I'm getting that window frame here.
09:01 And then I also want to create a little bit of bloom, so I'm going to change my
09:04 blend mode back to add and I'm going to increase the intensity here.
09:09 And I could also choose to tint this, make it a little cooler, a little warmer.
09:13 Whatever the case may be. But I'm just going to click here.
09:16 Oops, let's undo that. I'm going to zoom out a little bit so I
09:19 can see this a little better. Click around the edges and oops that's a
09:23 little bit on the heavy side here. So I'm just going to turn my color
09:27 brightness down. I can also paint with a tablet And then it
09:31 would be not quite so heavy. That's probably a little bit on the wide
09:36 side here so lets come down a little bit lower and just paint so that I'm getting a
09:39 little bit of bloom coming around the edges.
09:45 So now you can see that I've got a much brighter light, but I'm still getting some
09:48 of the coloration coming off of that and you can choose, like I said you can also
09:51 make this like a cooler color here. And, I want to say a little cooler for up
09:57 here, and over there, and we'll just make it a little warmer, earthier color for the
10:01 bottom side, and granted it's not just like the image, but you know it's going to
10:05 give me that little bit of warmth in my finished render here.
10:11 So you can do this as much as you need to. You can say, okay, one light's enough, and
10:16 you're good to go. You can also go in, use imaging.
10:19 Create another window. You could create a skylight.
10:22 And you can create those manually, just with paintbrushes.
10:24 So change this back to my color temperature here.
10:29 And let's get a nice cool. Color here for up top, and I'm just
10:34 going to kind of click up there, and give myself a little cool upside with something
10:38 a little warmer, and just kind of paint that over there.
10:43 I'm painting a little bit heavily in this case, because my opacity is set to 100
10:46 percent and I'm just doing it with a mouse.
10:49 You could also choose to just decrease your opacity so that you can get a little
10:52 bit more subtle with it, there's just a little bit of warm color for example.
10:56 I'll put little bit more back there. Yeah, and that'll do it.
11:00 That's all I'm going to do for this one. But, you can get the idea here how you can
11:03 really nicely create pretty complex and really custom suited environments that
11:07 will highlight exactly what you need in your environment.
11:13 For your objects. So if you look at this and say, its great
11:16 but it needs to be a little bit cooler over here on the right-hand side.
11:20 I can go in here and grab our cool color, pull up my brush, paint in some coolness
11:24 and there you go. You're set and ready to go.
11:27 You can also change your blend mode to normal and let me pull my opacity back up.
11:34 And that way you're overriding what's there.
11:35 So, thats cooled that off entirely because I'm not just adding a cool color on top.
11:39 It's gives you really good, powerful control over your lighting.
11:42 It's very fast and very easy, and the cool thing is its going to save this out.
11:47 If I go in here to my render view and go grab my images, I scroll down here, you'll
11:51 see here I've got my painted in viral one. Let me go ahead and make sure I save that.
11:57 One thing to note is that when you have your file it doesn't automatically save
11:59 all of your images. At intervals, it's a good idea to go up to
12:03 file and save image or save all images, and that will keep everything going here.
12:07 You can also save all iterations by doing save as.
12:10 There, I've got that image and if I look at that, it's a nice spherically wrapped
12:13 image and I could take it in and edit it in Photoshop if I want, if I'm comfortable
12:16 with painting with that kind of unwrapped. View, otherwise I can just continue to
12:21 paint using a mixture of my brushes and my image ink to create just the perfect
12:25 environment for my product that I need to visualize.
12:30 It will let me highlight everything in just the right way.
12:32 You can adjust it right in front of clients.
12:34 It gives you a really powerful editing suite for your tools that's fast and intuitive.
12:38
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Other options for painted environments
00:01 When creating painted environments in Modo, there are a few extra options that
00:05 you have, which will help you to add more control to your finished setup.
00:09 And if you're like me you like the option to be able to change things quickly if
00:12 somebody else wants it to be changed. So if you open up the
00:15 Painted_Environment_Layers file, you'll see that we have our environment sphere.
00:21 And inside that sphere we have a regular environment, which I've actually hidden.
00:25 So I'm going to go ahead and delete that. And then I have an environment base,
00:28 which, if we look at this, just has kind of a warm ground color down there.
00:33 And then a little bit kind of a soft skylight up at the top.
00:36 And it's just providing a little bit of ambient fill for it.
00:39 And then I have a second layer that's in Environment Window.
00:43 And see that just has a general image painted on it with a little bit of bloom
00:45 around it that's kind of helps fill it out, and you can see there's the
00:48 reflection of that, and the overall lighting increases when that's added in.
00:54 Now having these two layers it's nice and gives you some extra control, but this
00:58 becomes even more powerful when you edit the position and location of these
01:02 individual textures. So, for example, I've got this in
01:07 environment window here could just paint an entirely different image if I want.
01:11 But I'm in this case just going to go ahead and duplicate that.
01:14 And when I duplicate this, it's either it creates a new texture locator for it.
01:19 And by default, these are going to be set up to UV maps which is fine because
01:22 painting these, you have to use a UV map. Because that UV map will tell it where to
01:27 put it on our actual sphere. But if you're using a standard sphere,
01:30 with poles at the top, you can actually change this and get a little bit more
01:34 control afterwards. So I'm going to take this environment here
01:38 and lets go down to my projection type, which you can see right now is set to UV map.
01:44 And I'm going to change that to spherical and you see that it will jump up to the top.
01:50 You notice my lighting doesn't decrease at all when I add these in.
01:53 And that's because both of these window layers have their blender modes set to add.
01:56 So just like painting an extra layer of paint on top, these extra entire images
02:00 are being added on to what's underneath, in this case, is that base image and then
02:04 we're just going to add anything that goes above there.
02:08 So, now I can take this, and I'm going to press Q and Escape twice just to make sure
02:12 that I don't have anything else selected. And then, I'm going to go ahead and select
02:18 that texture locator. And you can see that will highlight here
02:21 in my view port. And now, if I press the E key to get my
02:24 rotate tools up, I can actually just take and rotate this image, and let's say I
02:28 want to put this one over here, and, maybe, let's swing it a little towards the back.
02:34 So I get kind of an edge-light off that. Just over here, on the edge of this.
02:39 And, there it is. I could also take this and adjust it and
02:42 make changes to it. Or I could paint an entirely different
02:46 image, so if you have an image of maybe a couple of different lights here that
02:49 you're using here, even if you duplicate them.
02:52 If you switch them over to a spherical map you can take them and move around their
02:56 position and this is going to be quickly;y then adding the paint on top of everything else.
03:03 So this will help you to get a very easily manipulatable scene.
03:08 That once you have something set up similar to how you like and once you can
03:12 master the basics of painting a simple single environment image.
03:16 This is going to be a good way to be able to make simple overarching adjustments
03:20 like for example, moving this window to a different location.
03:25 Without having to radically repaint your entire image and wipe some parts out and
03:30 erase other parts, et cetera. So, going ahead and duplicating these
03:34 layers will give you the ability to control that.
03:37 Just remember to change your texture locator to spherical.
03:40 If you don't do that it will just not do anything.
03:43 So if I grab this one here and select my locator here.
03:48 No matter what I do to rotate this, it's not going to change the position of that
03:51 window and that's because it's set to a UV map.
03:54 So the rotation and position of that locator are essentially mute points
03:57 because it's looking at the UV no matter what I do.
04:01 So, a couple of things to also consider here when you're rendering these, and that
04:05 is to make sure that you keep your base material set to Luminous amount of 1.
04:11 And then, if you're getting a bunch of bounce, if you had previously set your
04:15 diffuse or not set you diffuse amount rather, you might notice that the entire
04:20 scene starts to get really bright. Just remember to go back in and set your
04:25 diffuse amount to zero. In that we are only going to be getting
04:29 that luminous amounts, and the final thing to check is in your global illumination settings.
04:34 If you have your balances set to two, you should be in good shape for finish rendering.
04:38 You might even be able to decrease them to one if you have a well lit scene that's
04:42 got light coming from. Lots of angles.
04:45 And you don't have to worry about dead spots, where you would need balances to
04:48 fill them out. Something to keep an eye on.
04:50 You can save a little bit of render time by reducing the indirect balances to 2.
04:54 Although, usually having them 1 or 2 is a relatively minor difference.
04:58 But in large scenes they can make a difference.
05:00 So, that's just something to keep in mind. Aside from that, keep your irradiance rays
05:03 just as low as you need them. Make sure that you're adjusting your
05:08 irradiance rate and ratio and interpolation values in order to keep a
05:11 good polished look without having too long a render time.
05:16 So these are going to to be relatively similar sections to polygonal lighting,
05:19 because that's essentially what this is. It's advanced polygonal light at this point.
05:23 It's a sphere holding multiple polygonal lights.
05:26 And then just using that as an environment.
05:28 So, just a few extra options that you have in order to make this painted environment
05:32 creation more powerful and more flexible.
05:36
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Creating HDR environments from Paint
00:02 Once you have your environments laid out, and lighting your scene exactly the way
00:06 you want them, you could pretty easily save out a preset of your environment's
00:10 sphere, and then load that object preset as an individual item, but You also have
00:15 the option of converting these to an actual scene like these Modo preset scene files.
00:24 And that will actually give you a little bit more control over how you work with these.
00:29 So we're going to look at how to create an HDR environment just like these Modo ones
00:33 based off of the image that we have here. And in this case we have multiple images
00:38 and so it's going to be important that we get these to all Stick together cohesively
00:42 the way that we want them to. if you'd like to follow along, you can
00:47 open up the painted environment HDR file. And I'm going to go up here to my
00:51 environment sphere. And I'm going to go up and choose new image.
00:56 And I'm going to call this. Painted, HDR, we'll just leave it at that.
01:03 Painted, HDR. I'm going to make sure that I am set once
01:06 again to a a 32 bit open EXR format so that you get the high dynamic range.
01:12 I'm going to leave everything kind of the way that it was And I'm going to leave it
01:15 actually, as RGBA, and I'm not going to set an initial color, though.
01:19 So, once I do that, I'm going to end up with a blank image in here, and it's
01:22 going to set to diffuse color at first, so I want to set that over to luminous color.
01:28 And since there's nothing in here, nothing's going to change.
01:31 What I want to do is right click on this and choose Bake To Texture.
01:37 And when I do that, it's going to start up a render process.
01:41 By which, it's actually not rendering, but it's taking a compilation of everything
01:45 underneath that layer, and it's merging them together into a single.
01:51 Image map here. So let me just slide this out of the way
01:53 for the moment. So you can see everything that has the
01:56 luminous color tag on it, is now going to be compiled into a single HDR here.
02:02 So, let's move this back over so we can see it.
02:05 And you can see here it's rendering everything.
02:08 you can see that we've got one window here, the other window's starting to show
02:10 up there. We've got our Light blue color on the top.
02:14 Then we've got our, kind of, warm brown color there on the bottom.
02:17 And this will take just a minute to complete.
02:20 And it's going to create a compiled version then of everything that we have
02:23 going on. So you could have, you know, five or ten
02:26 small lights set up and have a really complex scene where you're adding in a
02:30 bunch of overlays and even painting a little bit of perhaps some bounce in a
02:33 background layer. But this will allow you even to take them
02:39 all and condense them into a single layer. So, let this finish up.
02:45 And then what we're going to do is we can take and after this is done, just delete
02:50 everything out of the scene. It will actually just hide the sphere
02:55 that's holding this texture, this lit environment, and then we'll apply this
02:59 image as an environment color image, so we'll be creating a simple environment here.
03:05 We'll let that finish up. So while that's finishing.
03:14 Oh, there we go, all done. So I'm just going to save this image.
03:19 Now I want to make sure that again I'm choosing an open EXR format, so we'll call
03:23 this, oh painted HDR, that was actually the image that I had there.
03:30 You created the dummy image and then rendered over the top of it.
03:33 So let's just go ahead and click OK. And that will save this image over that one.
03:37 Can go ahead and hide that. And now, you can see that this painted HDR.
03:42 I can even hide the other ones. Because it's doing all of the work for us.
03:46 It's created this Nice, combined image. Okay, so we're going to go one step
03:51 farther than here. I'm going to go in and I'm going to find
03:54 my environment sphere, and hide it. Well we have what looks like some kind of
04:00 environment in here already. Yeah we got this kitchen here, so I'm
04:02 going to hide the kitchen image and then just change my environment.
04:06 To a constant black, there we go. So we have a nice black environment, and
04:11 then I'm going to grab this painted HDR. Let's make this a little bigger so we can
04:14 see what we're doing. That's the zero key on the numeric keypad
04:18 to make this larger. I'm going to drag this down into the environment.
04:21 As soon as it gets into the environment, it's going to map as the environment color
04:25 because that is. Essentially what it is becoming.
04:28 That's your option when you're in the environment.
04:30 And, I want to see what's going on here so, in my lower view, my perspective view,
04:34 I'm going to go where it says advanced, open gel, change my background to
04:37 environment, looks like we're there, and let's make sure that this environment is
04:41 visible to the camera. There we go.
04:46 So we've got that. And I want to make sure that I go up to images.
04:52 And I find this image, and save it. So now what I'm going to do is grab this
04:57 painted environment HDR. And I'm going to drag it down into the environment.
05:02 And it's going to come in as an environment color.
05:05 That's your only option that you have here, is Environment Color, and you
05:08 want to make sure that your projection type is set to Spherical.
05:11 It may drop inset to a UV map, in which case you're going to get something kind of
05:14 crazy and blown out, because it's not going to know how to map anything to the
05:17 environment, because the environment is, you know, everything around you that
05:20 doesn't have a UV map. So, if I change that and set it up to
05:25 Spherical It's going to pop right in. If you want to see, a preview of this in,
05:29 real time here, you can, go here in your, perspective view, click on where it says
05:32 Advanced OpenGL, and then GL Backgrounds, change that to your Environment.
05:38 By default it's going to be the Gradient, which is just going to give you this.
05:41 If you want to see, that in your environment, go down to background, change
05:44 that to Environment, and then I can actually see, what's going on.
05:48 And actually, here I can see that It's facing the wrong direction here.
05:53 So I'm going to change that to Spherical on the Y.
05:55 And it updated in my viewport, but it looks like it's not reading correctly in
05:59 my view here. But that's alright because I can see that
06:03 it's rendering properly up here. I've got my ground colors down there, and
06:08 we're set and ready to go. So.
06:12 Now, you have even more options with this. So if you want to be able to create
06:15 something that is going to render more quickly, I'm just going to create some
06:19 duplicates here and, in this case, my environment has relatively low resolution
06:22 so I'm not going to worry about creating an image map that's just going to be seen
06:26 by the camera. I'm just going to create two environments.
06:33 If you have a really high resolution image, it's a good idea often to make
06:36 three duplicates here. And you would save one duplicate as a JPEG
06:41 in high resolution. That's just going to be what you see if
06:45 you see it in the background. In this case we're just seeing our
06:47 environment so, it's not going to matter. And then you would also create a secondary
06:51 one that will be visible to reflections. Which I'll make this one visible to
06:55 reflections and I'll turn off visible to indirect rays.
06:59 And then this one I only want visible want to the reflection.
07:04 And I can do one of two things with this to really speed up my renders.
07:07 I can either go ahead and make a duplicate of this.
07:09 So if I go Over to Photoshop and I open up that image.
07:17 Here's my painted HDR image. And what I can essentially do is really
07:25 scale this down. So let's take my image size down to
07:29 something like. 256.
07:31 Ok, so it's really small. And then, just to make sure that this
07:35 doesn't get anything weird with the lower scale, I'm also going to go in and blur it
07:40 a bit. Blur it, so let's change that down to
07:45 maybe about 8, like that. Click OK.
07:47 And then I'm going to Save As here. Make sure I'm also saving it as an HDR.
07:52 And I'll call this HDR Light. I'll save that.
07:57 Click OK. And I hop back over to Modo.
08:00 And on this one, I'm going to load an image.
08:03 And I'm going to load the HDR Light. And with that lower resolution one, it's
08:07 basically just going to be reading the color values.
08:09 And there's going to be a lot less for Modo to sample.
08:15 In my render, my global illumination, I can turn my radiance rays down because
08:18 there's less for it to sample, and it's also just generally going to render faster
08:21 even if I don't do that. But by leaving my second one at the high
08:25 resolution as visible to my reflections and my refractions and my background.
08:30 I'll still get nice, clean reflections. Now, the other option that you have is to
08:34 just take the version that's already in there and turn on Antialiasing and
08:38 increase the Minimum Spot. And by increasing that Minimum Spot,
08:42 you're going to be essentially blurring the image out.
08:45 Now, in this case, I also wanted to make the image a lot smaller, so I did go in
08:47 and save that duplicate that is a lot smaller and blurred.
08:51 And then that's handling my lighting And the other one is handling my reflections.
08:57 So, let's just go ahead and fire off a quick render, here.
08:59 And this should render relatively quickly on those settings.
09:03 Only maybe about 20 seconds or so for the render.
09:08 But you can see here that we're going to get something that's almost identical to
09:13 the original image-based Sphere, so this is just taking it and making it simpler
09:18 way of creating my lighting with that. That's going to be something a little bit
09:25 easier to package. I can just send off that one OpenEXR file,
09:27 the higher resolution one, to somebody else who might be working on this scene,
09:31 and they can really quickly render that. So let's see here, let's go up to my top
09:36 one and I'm just going to turn off the visible to indirect rays and I'll go to my
09:40 lower one and turn on visible to indirect rays.
09:44 And, this is a relatively smooth and not very detailed image anyway, but overall it
09:50 should give me a little bit of a render speed increase and smooth out.
09:59 A lot of the lighting in general. Now you're not going to get sharp shadows
10:02 off of this, but if you want those you can always go in and add in something like a
10:05 spotlight to kind of pick those up. But there you can see the difference is
10:10 relatively minor. But the higher the detail that you paint
10:16 into your image The more this will be necessary to keep your rendering artifacts
10:20 low and keep your render times low as well.
10:24 So there you can see the difference is only about a little less than a second.
10:29 But if you do happen to be getting high render times, that's going to be important
10:32 option to consider, especially if you've painted in a lot of.
10:36 Detailed lights that are using you know photographic light images and things like that.
10:40 Doing this will really help to knock your render time down and even more importantly
10:43 than that smooth out your background. Smooth out your lighting and smooth your
10:48 shading in general and give you a really good clean pristine look that doesn't
10:53 detract from the products that you're trying to visualize.
10:59
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7. Rendering and Render Settings
Camera settings for finished renders
00:02 Setting up the camera for your final renders is one of the most important parts
00:05 of capturing the right look for your products.
00:08 Now in this case I have a camera angle that's about middle of the cans, and
00:11 looking up towards them, and has a little bit of distortion on the perspective.
00:17 And The reason that I'm going for that is, I want these cans to appear a little bit
00:20 bigger than life. In this case, I want them to look kind of
00:23 strong and bold. Without looking really distorted.
00:27 And so I have enough perspective for my shot.
00:30 I think that conveys it well. And I could still see and read all the
00:34 labeling very well. Now, if you'd like to follow along with
00:38 this, I have the render scene start file. And what this scene has in it, if you give
00:42 it a quick look, is it has the three cans. It has some polygonal drops on it.
00:49 So let's go in here and let's go to our model quad view for a minute.
00:54 It has some polygonal drops on it. And if we open this up, you can see I've
01:00 got four water drop meshes that are just sitting on the can itself.
01:06 On the front can I could duplicate these over to the secondary cans but I don't
01:09 think they are really necessary. And it's all inside that water folder.
01:14 And we also have the blob that's controlling the condensation on the can
01:19 and that's driven by. An empty mesh here that just has vertices
01:25 in it. Which if I zoom in you'll be able to see here.
01:30 There you go. You can see those straight vertices.
01:35 And those were just painted on with the particle paint tool.
01:38 And then there is another blobs that is set to Some vertices that are in this
01:42 splash blobs layer, and you can see, those ones are just kind of spraying outwards.
01:49 The overall effect is that the hands have been kind of slammed down on the ground,
01:53 and waters been flicked up into the air. So that's the look that I'm going for, and
01:57 you won't see those necessarily you can turn them on in the open GL view, but.
02:02 It gets a little bit cluttered looking so I have those turned off for now and you
02:04 can just see those though in the render preview.
02:07 You can see the condensation on the cans, and you can see big drops, splashes coming
02:11 off from underneath the can. Now, as far as environment goes I have a
02:16 painted HDR which we can look at here. Set that to environment.
02:24 (SOUND) It's just a simple one with a couple of windows and some gradient down
02:27 underneath to kind of warm it up. So, I'm looking for getting a little bit
02:32 of warm color up here, a little bit cooler up here and then I've got some little bit
02:35 cool color inside the transparency of these splashes just to kind of give a nice
02:39 little balance between cool and Warm colors.
02:43 And then I also have on my can itself, I just have turned on, a really simple
02:49 material here over the top of everything. Which is just 80% diffuse, it's
02:57 essentially just a white default material and I like to do that when I have, a kind
03:02 of complex busy material. So I can get a better view of what's going
03:07 on with the scene composition itself. It helps me set up cameras and kind of
03:11 focusing on one thing at a time and then all I have to do to get that off is just
03:15 to hide that one material that's up over the top and then all of my complex
03:18 materials underneath will pop right through.
03:24 Okay, but for right now I'm going to leave that off so that we can see the camera
03:28 perspectives a little more easily. I actually have four cameras set up also
03:32 in this scene so we can look at how you can set up cameras to achieve different results.
03:38 A big part of this is going to have to do with whatever product it is you're shooting.
03:41 In this case, I kind of want them to appear big and bold but not overly so.
03:45 So I got a camera relatively close and if we look at my settings for the camera, you
03:48 can see that the focal length is about 19 millimeters.
03:51 And the camera then is panned out enough to where the blobs are not getting to the
03:56 edge of the frame so that everything is nicely framed inside of there.
04:02 Now, if you want to get a slightly different look, I've got another camera up
04:06 here that is zoomed out a bit, has a focal length of 42mm.
04:10 So a little farther out here. And there we go.
04:14 You can see this in the upper right hand view.
04:16 Which actually, we could just make larger so we're not waiting on the (INAUDIBLE) render.
04:21 Now, this one isn't framed as much, the splashes are going to come off the screen more.
04:26 It is moved out a bit and then zoomed in, a little bit more.
04:32 And the effect that that's going to give is a little bit less distortion.
04:36 So, they're going to read relatively cleanly.
04:39 In this case I kind of wanted to see the tops of the cans so you could see the
04:41 modelling work on the tabs and whatnot. It's not going to be the look I want for
04:45 the finished one but it's another one that I've got in here.
04:48 And then also if I want to get even more kind of flat and direct so that the
04:51 labeling really shows up clearly I've got this one that's drawn way back and has a
04:55 focal length of 97 millimeters. And you can see that one here in my Render preview.
05:03 Is giving me a really flat, direct look. I'll be able to read the logos very cleanly.
05:07 This might be the kind of one that I would use if I'm going to take out the splashes
05:11 so that I can just get a nice clean read on the logos and the labeling on the cans.
05:17 Also if I was going to do multiple different can labels this might be a nice
05:20 way to showcase those because I think it's going to keep them relatively even in the view.
05:26 Now the further out that you get and the more you zoom in, the more you're going to
05:30 approach a perspective free kind of orthographic view.
05:35 Just keep that in mind as you zoom out. And you can get that zoom just by holding
05:39 down Option or Alt on the PC and Ctrl and Right Mouse clicking in your real time
05:44 Camera View. If you do this in the Render preview, it's
05:49 not going to work. In the preview here, that will allow me to
05:55 adjust my focal length, manually and visually here.
06:00 And you can see down there on the bottom right that my focal length and my angle of
06:03 view are changing correspondingly as I do this.
06:06 Now the one issue with this is that You can't get a focal length lower than 15
06:09 millimeters doing it this way. And if you happen to want a really kind
06:14 of, fish-eyed look. Like, this camera over here.
06:17 Which I'm trying to select. Camera three here.
06:27 You can see that here's this really kind of more fish-eyed effect.
06:30 In order to get beyond 15 millimeters, you need to actually change the focal length
06:34 down here manually inside of the projection part of the camera view.
06:40 Setting. So that will allow you get get beyond 15 millimeters.
06:43 And if you want kind of a much more distorted view, then that's how you would
06:46 have to do that. You have to come in here and do that
06:50 because if I hold Option + Ctrl, and then Right Mouse button here, it's immediately
06:53 going to snap me up to 15 millimeters, and if I drag to the left you can see I can't
06:56 get anything else. I can zoom in more.
06:59 I can zoom in all I want, but I can't zoom out beyond 15 millimeters.
07:03 And I have to come down here to that. Focal length field to get that to work.
07:09 For the sake of this video here, I'm going to go back to the first camera view.
07:14 That's going to give me kind of that middle line one where I'm getting a little
07:16 bit of camera distortion but not too much. I've got all my blobs framed and ever
07:19 thing in general is going to work pretty well.
07:22 Now a couple of other camera setting that you want to keep in mind Using depth of
07:26 field and motion blur can really help add extra impact to your finished look.
07:32 It's going to depend on how much render time you have and then how much depth you
07:34 want to give the scene and how much motion you want to give the scene.
07:38 I don't have anything moving in here so turning on motion blur isn't going to do
07:41 anything in this case. But if I were to do something like animate
07:45 some distortion, or something like the blobs moving, then that Motion Blur is
07:49 going to help to kind of, sell that motion.
07:53 In this case, if I turn on my Depth of Field, I will get an effect going on there.
07:58 So I'm going to grab camera 1, turn on Enable for my depth of field, and now
08:02 you'll see that these blobs here that are more in the foreground are going to, kind
08:07 of, blur out. As are the back edges of the cans that are
08:12 on the sides as well. The stuff here in the front is going to
08:16 remain nice and in-focus. Now you can either use the auto-focus in
08:19 order to get this to hone in, but sometimes it's going to hit a spot in the
08:22 center of your Image that's not exactly what you want in focus.
08:27 So if you want a good idea of how this works, I'm going to go here to my
08:30 Perspective View, and hold Control and the space bar to get my little camera, or my
08:35 Perspective popup, here. And I want to go to the Top view, so it
08:40 changes my view. There we go, top view.
08:45 And you can see with the camera selected, you actually get a visualization of where
08:49 that focal length is lying. And it's going to be this back plane.
08:53 So if I increase my focal distance. You'll see that back plane is going to move.
08:58 And so I can effectively, you know, focus on the.
09:03 Corner of this can that's back here on the right, and then the foreground can is
09:06 going to become out of focus, or I can decrease that more and kind of get my
09:10 blobs that are really close to us in focus or the cans will pop out of focus.
09:16 If I hit auto focus, it's going to take me kind of to a spot that I don't want to be
09:20 in this case. So, I'm just going to manually pull that
09:26 back until it's right on, about 185 millimeters.
09:32 There we go. That's going to give me a nice rendered
09:36 look here for my depth of field. Now your F-stop is going to control how
09:41 deep that focal length blur is. The lower the number, the more shallow the perspective.
09:48 So the more blur you'll get. If you set it all the way down to
09:53 something like a large aperture 1.4, outside of the area that's actually in
09:56 focus, it's going to blur off very, very quickly.
10:00 And then higher numbers are going to decrease that effect.
10:03 And this also is going to depend on what kind of camera you are using.
10:06 So if I'm using this camera that's way back here and zoomed in then, an f-stop of
10:10 4 is going to give me very little depth, because the relative distance.
10:16 Between the can and these blobs relative to the distance of the camera is, is
10:20 pretty small. So that's something to keep in mind as you
10:24 work on those settings. So, you can also do this in post, so I
10:29 would say be careful on the focal length blur.
10:34 Just because depth of field can take a long time to render, and if you don't get
10:37 the right results, it could cause you to reder the entire scene over again.
10:42 So just something to keep in mind. Be careful on that, and definitely I would
10:46 say do lower resolution tests before you fire off the finished one.
10:50 Because you'll typically need higher anti alias settings in order to get a good
10:54 quality render. So all those options kind of go together
10:58 to give you a nice set up for your finished camera and will help you to set
11:02 the scene properly for your finished renders of your product visualizations.
11:09
Collapse this transcript
Rendering with multiple outputs
00:02 Being able to adjust your finished renders after the fact in Photoshop or another
00:06 image editor is a very important part of creating good product visualization and
00:10 any kind of rendering for that matter. Now, by default, Modo gives you a couple
00:16 of render outputs inside of your Shader Tree here.
00:20 So if you go to the Shader Tree tab and then under the Render tab, you'll see that
00:23 the first two things here are a final color output, which we can select and see
00:25 that it has some options, and then an alpha channel output.
00:30 Now in this case the alpha channel is not going to do us a lot of good because we
00:33 have a solid backdrop behind the camera. And the only thing that will actually get
00:37 showing up inside of this is going to be. The refracted area that is giving us parts
00:43 of the image that are off of the set. So where we see little bits of reflection
00:48 that are being reflected and refracted from offset, where there isn't a scene in
00:51 the background. Now, we'll get kind of some little bit of
00:55 alpha output in there. But for the most part, in this kind of a
00:58 scene the alpha channel itself is not going to do us a whole lot of good.
01:02 Now there are, however, some very important render outputs that will help
01:05 you get better quality finished renders or allow you to completely reconstruct your
01:09 renders after the fact and be able to have more precise control over how you color
01:13 correct, how you adjust, and fine tune your finished renders.
01:19 So I can either go here to add layer and Special and choose Render Output, which
01:24 I'll do here for this first one. And this will add in a render output.
01:31 And by default, it's going to bring in another final color render output which,
01:33 in this case, isn't what I want. you'll notice it's also going to be darker
01:38 because the default final color output comes in at a Gamma of 2.2 and if you just
01:41 drop one in any render output that you just dropped into the scene is going to
01:45 come in with a Gamma of 1.0. You should probably look down here, you
01:51 can see output Gamma is 1. If I change that to 2.2, it's going to pop
01:54 back to the same kind of level of coloration that the other one was.
01:58 All right. So, I don't really want a final color
02:01 output again, though, because I've already got that.
02:04 There are a few here that can be very useful and a couple of them are right up
02:07 towards the top. There is the depth output which, if I turn
02:11 on, I can preview in my render here by clicking on where it says Shading and
02:14 going down. And you can see Shading is just going to
02:18 give me the full finish render. I also have the option for looking at any
02:23 of my render outputs. So I'm going to go to my depth output.
02:27 And at the default setting, it's going to be almost white with a little bit of grey.
02:30 And that's because the overall depth, my maximum depth, is going to be 10 meters.
02:35 And this scene is much smaller than 10 meters.
02:37 It's actually, more along the lines of about a meter.
02:41 So, I'm going to pull this back here. What I want to do is to frame up my
02:47 objects, so that the ground kind of gets the black line of gradation just behind my
02:51 objects or a little ways behind them. But, if I draw this in closer, it's going
02:58 to increase the contrast with my foreground elements.
03:01 So now you can see, if I've drawn this in like this, now I can tell that some of
03:04 these blobs, the lighter colored ones, are closer to the camera, while the ones that
03:07 are a little bit more shaded are farther away.
03:11 I can tell that this can is closer to us and that it's rounding away from us, as
03:15 are these other cans. This one here is a little bit farther
03:19 away, and this one on the right is even farther away.
03:22 So you can see that depth there even more. It's up to you exactly how far you want to go.
03:28 You usually want to get as much contrast as you can without clipping your actual objects.
03:33 Now, if you do click them a little bit, it's not the end of the world.
03:37 But personally, I like to keep all of my objects that I might need to do something
03:40 with, depth of field add some kind of fade off of fog or something like that.
03:46 I want to keep those all in my range here so, a maximum depth of about 266 looks
03:50 like that does that. At this point, I can even kind of tell the
03:55 difference between the drops on the cans and the cans themselves, so this is going
03:58 to be a really nice depth for that. And this can help me to get a nice
04:02 finished quality render. So, I'm going to get another one here and
04:07 instead of going up to that menu, I can just duplicate one that's here, and then
04:10 right click on it and change the effects. So the other one that I'll put on here
04:14 right off the bat is ambient occlusion. If I go and preview that ambient
04:17 occlusion, first it's going to look really rough, but as soon as it starts to refine
04:20 a little bit. Now you can kind of see the point behind
04:23 ambient occlusion. The overall idea here is to kind of take
04:26 light coming from all different directions.
04:29 That would be like ambient light, and seeing what areas are going to be occluded
04:32 or hidden from that ambient light. Now you notice by camera did kind of bump
04:38 back and forth there. If you want to lock that down and keep
04:41 that from happening, you can just go up to the camera.
04:44 That you're rendering from, right-click on it, and click on this lock unlock option.
04:49 Sometimes an inadvertant bump of the scroll wheel can cause that to move and,
04:53 then you'd have to wait for the preview again.
04:56 Now. If you want to be moving your camera or if
04:59 you haven't setup your cameras how you want them yet then you might want to leave
05:02 that off. But in this case I have them set up pretty
05:04 much how I want so I can go ahead and lock that off.
05:07 So here with this ambient inclusion you can see that I start to get a real good
05:10 idea of where there are going to be more shadows based off of the details of the model.
05:15 Now this one actually is going to be a little bit heavy for my taste.
05:19 You can see that because we're even getting some gray on this back wall.
05:22 And, really, I don't care about that back wall showing up at all.
05:25 I don't need any of that detail. So, in order to get that out of there and
05:28 to kind of lighten up the whole thing and get something a little bit more usable --
05:32 and that gets a little bit busy down in here -- I can increase one setting on my
05:35 Ambient Occlusion. And that is my occlusion range.
05:42 At zero meters it means that basically that ambient light isn't going to
05:46 penetrate anything. But, as I increase this slightly, it's
05:50 going to make the light kind of pass through thin objects.
05:54 So, if I take this up to something like, for example, five millimeters Anything
05:58 smaller than 5 millimeters essentially is not going to cast a shadow at this point.
06:04 As you can see, this is including all of my blobs, for the most part.
06:08 And this is a little bit overdone, and it's making this just kind of, little bit
06:11 of a blotchy mess, and not very readable. So as I draw this up higher, (no period)
06:18 There's going to be kind of a breaking point where you'll get more, depth versus,
06:22 having it just disappear. So, probably just take this up to
06:27 somewhere like, 20 millimeters. See now, I'm not losing as many of my
06:32 little blobs. I'm starting to get some detail from back
06:37 inside the can, some of the detail back in here.
06:40 So, you can adjust this at will in order to get the kind of depth that you want, or
06:44 if you don't mind the little bit of clipping and getting some background grey
06:48 there you can just put it down to zero. And that's going to give you kind of the
06:53 best baseline without having to touch it setting, that will give you a little bit
06:56 of shade coming off of everything. Though it might tend to be a little bit on
07:01 the dark side, in which case you'll have to brighten up if you're going to use it
07:04 in Photoshop. Another thing to look here is your
07:07 Occlusion Rays. because at 64 rays, this is always
07:10 going to look pretty grainy and rough. And I can take this and set my quality on
07:14 my preview render to finished render. And then, if I mouse over this and it's
07:20 not going to get any better, so it's a little bit grainy.
07:24 Alright. So I'm going to set this back to extended
07:26 cause I like to be able to mouse over and get a good clean view.
07:30 And usually, I go for 128 or 256 rays. Just remember that the more rays you have
07:35 the longer it's going to take to render. Ambient occlusion doesn't add a ton of
07:38 render time. But it does add some.
07:41 So it's something worth keeping in mind. If 128 looks too rough, go up to 256.
07:46 But I would usually start off that way instead of going the other way and having
07:50 to bump it down if it looks too clean because whoever thinks a render looks too clean.
07:55 I know I don't. Let's go back up here and look at just a
07:58 couple more that are really important to our work flow here.
08:01 So I'm going to duplicate this. I'm going to right click on the effect
08:04 here and I'm going to go down here and I'm going to change the effect of this one to
08:07 Surface ID. And what the Surface ID is going to give
08:11 you, and we'll go ahead and preview this, is a nice kind of flat render here that
08:15 gives you ever individual surface in the scene depicted as a color.
08:21 And these are essentially something that you can use to mask off different areas,
08:25 so I could use the red to make a mask for just my water drops.
08:29 I could use this green here to make a mask for this can another one for this can and
08:32 another one for this can. The background and then for the individual
08:35 little splotches of water that are on there.
08:38 Now this is going to allow me to make fine-tuned adjustments to specific
08:42 materials inside of my scene. Now one thing to notice is that this is
08:47 going to go by a surface ID. So an entire object here.
08:52 So I have like, in my Imported Shaders, I have this V2B, my overall can logo.
08:58 It's not breaking this up into the individual different layers.
09:03 It doesn't do that. It only gives me kind of the entire
09:05 material set as a whole. So I've clicked on this can.
09:09 I pressed the N key. I assigned this material to it.
09:12 That's what's going to get separated out here.
09:14 This takes almost zero time to render, and gives you some really fantastic options
09:17 out with your finished render. Let's go up here and I'm going to add in
09:21 one more here, and that is going to be a shading normal, so let's go down and we'll
09:27 find shading normal. And this is one of those ones that looks
09:32 really funny, but is really useful in the finished product.
09:36 So, if you look at this, you can see that it looks essentially like a normal map,
09:40 and what this is going to give us is the ability to separate out individual channels.
09:45 For left and right, up and down, and then, kind of, forward to back, depth.
09:50 And that will allow us to add in extra highlights and some extra glints, and
09:54 things like that. For example, I wanted to separate off the
09:58 water drops with their surface ID and then I could use my red, green and blue
10:02 channels are each going to have one of the directions of lights.
10:08 It's going to give me my shaded edges on the right-hand side.
10:11 So, I can use that surface ID for the water drops, and then the red channel for
10:16 my shading normal. And it's going to give me this grayscale
10:20 image that I can then screen over the top and adjust and get, you know, a little
10:23 more depth out of my finished look for that specific area.
10:28 It just gives you a few extra things to tweak and adjust that, doing otherwise you
10:32 don't have that. Setting turned on is going to you a long
10:36 time to do, so I would always recommend turning this one on, cause you never know
10:39 when it might be useful. Look at just a couple more here that can
10:44 be super useful, and we won't go into them too much, but I'm going to look at the
10:49 Defuse Shading Total. And this is going to give me, basically
10:54 just where I have diffuse color. Now I won't let it finish rendering out
10:57 too much. We'll just keep moving here so you can
10:59 see, just diffuse color there. So lets, duplicate that one.
11:04 And, I also have, reflected, colors in this one, so I'm going to go down and
11:07 choose Reflection shading. And then we'll check and see that
11:11 reflection shading and this is going to be just areas where the color that's coming
11:14 to the screen is based off of a reflective property.
11:18 And remember all these are going to be set to a gamma of 1.0, so they're going to
11:21 look a little bit dark until you turn that up.
11:25 Now let's duplicate that one and then the other thing that I have in here because I
11:28 have those transparent water drops, is some transparent shading.
11:32 So, let's tun on Transparent Shading. So between these three, diffuse shading,
11:36 reflection shading, and transparent shading, I can actually recreate a
11:40 complete image, and then have direct control over how my reflectivity is, how
11:44 my transparency flows, and that kind of thing.
11:49 So let's go down here and make sure that all of these are set to 2.2.
11:54 And they are (SOUND) and there we go. So now I have all of those different passes.
11:59 And all these put together will give me something that I can reconstruct really
12:03 well inside of Photoshop. And that's the simple way to do passes
12:07 inside of Modo that will help you amp up the quality and the controllability of
12:11 your finished rendered images.
12:14
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Render passes
00:02 Sometimes, basic render passes are not going to give you enough information to
00:05 fully edit your image and post to the extent that you might want to.
00:10 And for that, Modo has Render Pass Groups. And this is a fantastic way of giving you
00:16 even more control over what you get out of your finished render.
00:19 If you want to follow along with this one, you can open up the
00:21 Render_Passes_Groups.lxo file, and that will get you right here.
00:25 And we're going to start right away just by looking at how to create individual
00:29 alpha channels for the cans, the drops, and the background, and everything kind of individually.
00:36 So, I'm going to start by creating a pass group.
00:38 And this is going to be the key to making any render passes at all in this manner.
00:43 You have to have a pass group to start. So let's make a new one, I'll call this
00:47 can_passes and so render pass group. And I'm going to set it as empty here to start.
00:54 Now that I have a pass group, I can start creating individual render passes.
00:58 You can see that right now I don't have any.
01:00 And before I do that, though, I'm going to start by kind of thinking about some
01:05 things that I might want to do with my finish render here.
01:11 Have any individual object just be kind of completely flat rendered so.
01:17 going to turn off specularity here even set my Diffuse Amount to 100%.
01:21 And, basically, at this point everything in the scene is just going to get this
01:26 basic white matte coating to it. So I don't want this in my main render
01:31 pass here, so I'm going to hide that. And if you make changes here in just the
01:37 pass group, but with your Passes set to None, those Passes will pass on
01:41 automatically to everything underneath. So, if I hide my just overarching material
01:49 here, at first It's not going to show up in any of my subsequent ones unless I turn
01:53 it on. So now what I'm going to do is I'm
01:57 going to make a new pass layer now, and this one I'm going to call water.
02:01 So, I'm going to take the water and now I'm going to go over and I'm going to hide
02:06 all three of my cans. Let's just click on the eyeball behind
02:11 those, make sure I get all of them, and then, I'm going to hide my backdrop as well.
02:18 Which is down here, mesh four, I believe is my backdrop, and as soon as I do that
02:24 we'll just end up with the water drops and the lighting.
02:31 There we are. And now I"m going to go back here and I'm
02:36 going to turn on... This basic material, because I don't want
02:40 the transparency or anything here. And also, you don't,I don't need a Final Color.
02:45 I don't need a Depth Output, I don't need Ambient Occlusion.
02:49 (SOUND) I don't need Surface ID. I don't really need any of these, except
02:53 for my Alpha Output. So, now, I have this water passes that's
02:57 just giving me the alpha channel for my individual water drops.
03:03 I could also turn on the like the finished rendering color and be able to get some of
03:07 this and add or multiply, or screen it onto the other stuff.
03:11 But I don't really need that, so I'm just going to leave that as is.
03:15 And now, you notice, if I go up to Passes None, it's going to turn all of those back on.
03:21 It's going to turn off the material. It's going to unhide all of my objects.
03:25 Just get everything back from that change that I had made.
03:28 And now I can go and make a new one. This one I'll call Cans.
03:31 We'll click OK. And on this one once again I'm going to
03:35 turn on that material so everything gets that base coat to it.
03:39 Let me maximize this here. In this case I'm going to turn off My blobs.
03:44 I'm going to turn of the Waterdrops. And I'm going to turn of our backdrop.
03:51 And now I'm going to be left with just the cans, all by themselves.
03:57 I've got my render passes, which I can go over here.
04:02 And again, I will turn all of these off except for the alpha interrupt the final
04:06 render and all that. And that 's just going to save me render
04:11 time here at the end because really all I need is this alpha channel for that, so
04:15 I'm not going to worry about anything else.
04:19 So, anything that you can toggle on or off, anything that you can set a key frame
04:23 to, anything like that can be a part of a render pass.
04:27 So here, let's go back up here and I'm going to go again up to none, and I'm
04:30 going to make a new one that I'm going to call.
04:33 Beauty and I'm not going to touch anything on this one.
04:36 This one I'm just going to leave as is. So when I render, I'll get a beauty pass,
04:41 I'll get a water pass, I'll get Achaeans pass and if I wanted I could break it out
04:44 towards the splashes in a pass, the drops of can as a pass.
04:50 And I could separate this out even farther.
04:52 I could also go in and do a render, where I just get ambient occlusion without the
04:56 drops there. Or do ambient occlusion without the cans there.
05:01 I'm not going to go through and do all of those things.
05:03 Because really you can see just by these couple of things here, if I go up now and
05:06 render these. So, I'm going to go up to Render.
05:09 and your passes and it's going to ask me which pass group.
05:11 I'm just going to choose can passes and click ok.
05:14 It's going to render this out for me. There's my alpha for the splashes.
05:18 There's my alpha for the cans. and now it's goinna go in and it's goinna start.
05:25 You'll notice it's going to do the pre-passes and everything, cause now it's
05:28 actually going to calculate global illumination and all that good stuff for
05:31 my Beauty render. And when I'm done here, you can see that
05:35 my output, I've got all of my render outputs here.
05:39 So we'll go ahead and let that make those passes here.
05:43 Can increase the size of it so it's a little more visible.
05:48 ANd this is going to give me a couple of different PSD files that I can use to get
05:52 all of my information out of it. Or I can save all of my passes down to a
05:57 single PSD file as soon as this is done. And that will allow me to get a much more
06:02 in-depth single image that will give me all the different options of t he
06:05 different render paths. Here's the finished render.
06:17 And, you can look here and see we've got the Final Output Color.
06:20 We've got our alpha, which in this case is blank.
06:22 And we've got Depth Surface ID. Reflection shading, transparent shading,
06:27 and our diffused shading. So altogether those can, go to create a
06:31 good quality finished image. In addition to this we have our cans alpha
06:36 and we have our water alpha. And remember that in these passes, and you
06:40 can also make any other changes you want, you could do different versions where the
06:43 cans have completely different labels on them.
06:46 Or just labels of different colors. And you can mask those out, and mix and
06:50 match and combine them all you want. But the point is, you can render these out
06:54 and get to where you have multiple camera angles, multiple options and multiple
06:58 different things turned on. And then you just have to hit render once,
07:02 go get lunch, and when you come back, you've got all your things rendered.
07:06 There's no need to sit there and render out each thing one at a time.
07:09
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Global illumination settings
00:02 Fine tuning your Global Illumination settings is a important part for
00:04 optimizing your finish renders. And in this case, I'm going to go here,
00:09 select my render node. And then, I'm also going to go in here to
00:13 my can material and I'm going to turn on my basic material up over the top.
00:19 And that's going to allow me to get a clearer view of just the lighting quality
00:23 and, and can see what's going on here, without having it encumbered by all of the
00:28 different things with the texture. Now, that said, you can have a little bit
00:35 of roughness in the lighting quality. And when applied over a more complex
00:39 texture, you might not notice. But it's usually a good rule of thumb to
00:43 get things as clean as you can within reason, and within a good render time.
00:47 And then, add your textures back in because you don't want to have some
00:50 modeled lighting mess up your textures. But that's going to be harder to read if
00:55 you have everything turned on. So, for that case, I'm going to go ahead
00:58 and turn that back on here. And (SOUND) I'm going to over to my Global
01:01 Illumination settings. And, then, let's just open this up, so we
01:05 can see. Now, I have a pretty basic set of,
01:07 settings turned on here. These are not default but they are the
01:10 ones that I use for a lot of other things. My Irradiance Rays are set to 128.
01:16 That's relatively low but it's going to keep a good relatively quick rate rays.
01:20 My Irradiance Rate and Ratio are set to 5 and 3, respectively.
01:25 And then, the Interpolation Value up to 8. Now that's going to go together to give a
01:28 good relatively smooth overlook that might lack a little bit in some of the details.
01:33 But overall should give a good balance between speed and quality.
01:37 Now the other thing to note is that I have Indirect Bounces set to 2.
01:41 Sometimes that Indirect Bounces setting can cause a real slowdown in rendering.
01:47 Although, often times I've noticed that keeping it between 1 and 2 is a relatively
01:52 minor difference. But, one thing is, if we turn it down to
01:56 1, it's going to refresh a little bit more quickly on here.
02:01 And without the extra bounce of light coming off of the floor in the background,
02:04 sometimes it's a little bit easier to see how the lighting is going to affect the surface.
02:10 In the case of these cans, you can see that we're getting a really kind of rough
02:13 overall look here. So in this case, this would be where you
02:17 want to increase your Irradiance Rays. This is going to be the place that's going
02:22 to allow you to get something a little bit cleaner.
02:25 So, I'm going to go up to 256, and then I'm just going to use the paint to preview
02:28 and I'm just going to Mouse over kind of this middle section here, and see that we
02:32 got that a lot of those splotches going away.
02:36 And I could go even higher just based off of render time, the choice will be yours.
02:43 But if you have a much faster machine than me, this is just a relatively middle of
02:47 the line quad core. Then you can go a lot higher in your
02:52 finished renderings. So I think it's set at 512.
02:55 It's getting pretty smooth over all. And then, when I turn that second bounce
03:00 back on, it's going to clarify a lot of the lighting here.
03:04 This should look pretty good. Yeah, so that's pretty nice and clean
03:07 through here. And I'm just again, going to kind of mouse
03:10 over this middle section. Now alternatively if you want to really
03:13 check these settings without having to worry too much about the entire thing rendering.
03:18 You can turn on the render region tool which gives you kind of an interactive way
03:23 to decide where you want your image render.
03:27 So, I'm just going to drag out kind of this middle section of this can here and
03:30 now you can see only that section is going to render.
03:34 So I can make this, render preview maximized and now you can see it's only
03:38 going to deal with, what's directly inside of that little square.
03:43 And this is going to let this, kind of, refine itself much more quickly because
03:46 it's not worrying about, the other stuff outside of the scene.
03:50 And overall, I'd say this is looking pretty good.
03:52 You will notice that we're getting a little bit of kind of (INAUDIBLE)
03:55 reflections where the light is focusing off of the drops.
03:57 And that's going to cause a little bit of the modeled appearance, and that's okay.
04:00 That's the kind of realistic thing that we would be expecting.
04:04 But it's where we see relatively smooth not patchy coloration across.
04:09 That's going to be. Where we'd want to go.
04:11 So, for this case, I'd say that a render setting with a radiance rays of about 512
04:15 is going to give me the best thing for the best thing for the buck.
04:21 Again, you can always go higher but you're going to really sacrifice your render time.
04:26 So that's going to help me get that there. Another thing to keep an eye on is the
04:33 indirect caustics. Now if you don't want those caustic
04:37 reflections here I'm going to turn this down to none.
04:39 And you'll actually see that this is going to get much, much darker.
04:43 And that's because we're not getting the light focusing underneath these.
04:46 Instead, all we're getting is the shadows off of these, so something to be careful
04:50 of when you can turn it off, sometimes it will save you some render time.
04:55 You can see this is clarifying more quickly, but at great expense to the image quality.
04:59 So, I'm going to set this over to refraction only.
05:05 And this should give us a decent mix. It was set to both, which means that
05:08 wherever light is hitting a bright, reflexive surface, then that surface is
05:13 going to cause a little bit of a, kind of, bounced focus reflection of light.
05:19 In this case, we would see it here at the top side of this water drop here, but it's
05:23 not present. If I turn it to reflection only, the
05:27 shadow under that might overpower it so you won't see it, but if we change it to
05:32 both, there we go. Now you'll see that we won't have a dark
05:37 spot here but it gets a little bit lightened up by the reflection off of this
05:40 drop there and then on the lower side of it.
05:43 You get the light passing through, and so you get the indirect cause that's kind of
05:47 giving you this little bit of reflection over there.
05:51 If you happen to be doing a scene that mixes using CG light, like directional
05:55 lights and spotlights with your Global Illumination, then you might want to
05:59 consider turning on the Direct Caustics. And these you get a little bit more
06:04 control over the actual render settings. The total number of photons that are in
06:09 there and then the local photons, and remember, that just like anything else
06:12 higher photons, which is equivalent to higher arrays is going to give you higher
06:16 render times as your total photons. But its going to give you better quality
06:22 more focused more realistic looking caustics.
06:24 A lot of times with the scenes that we've been doing we've just been looking at only
06:28 using Global Illumination. But if you happen to be using some direct
06:32 illumination that's where this direct caustics will come in.
06:36 And you can also cache those will walk through mode just like you can cache your
06:39 overall lighting with walk through mode. And, if you're going to be using an
06:43 animation, the only thing that has to be recalculated for subsequent frames is
06:46 whatever is in view, in camera view that is, that wasn't in the camera view for the
06:50 previous frame. So that saves a lot of time with those
06:54 irradiance caches. When you're rendering out your finished
06:58 renders of any animation. So if you're going to move the camera
07:01 around, if you're going to rotate the cans or something like that, then definitely
07:04 want to consider turning on Walkthrough Mode.
07:07 Especially if the objects are going to be changing positions drastically, it's
07:11 mostly positions in camera like a walkthrough.
07:14 That's why they call it Walkthrough Mode. Then this will definitely help increase
07:18 the cache speed of your finished frames and it's going to speed you up.
07:23 The first frame will still render at the regular speed but every subsequent frame
07:26 will be significantly faster. So, optimizing those settings is going to
07:30 help you to get the best balance of quality versus speed.
07:35 Adjust them to where you need them to your finished project to get the best quality
07:38 with the amount of time you have.
07:41
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Render quality settings
00:02 Modo has some generalized render settings that are worth looking at that will help
00:05 you get good quality and also help you speed up your finished renders.
00:09 Allot of times your going to be hoping for the best possible quality with a decent
00:12 render time, so we want things to look really good.
00:17 In this case I've got the render settings lxo file, if you'd like to follow along,
00:20 and I'm going to go ahead and do a couple of things here.
00:24 I'm going to turn off Graft Displacement and I'm inside my can passes, I'm in a,
00:29 I've got a Cans No Water one here that's got no water, just the cans.
00:36 Sitting on the background. And, this way, I can see my displacement here.
00:40 And the displacement settings are something that we'll be looking at here
00:43 with my finished render. So, let's go over to the settings off of
00:46 the render item. And you can see that, by default, you have
00:50 eight samples per pixel for the (UNKNOWN) thing.
00:54 And for a lot of things that is going to do.
00:58 You'll want to increase that to something more if you have a particularly grainy
01:02 image where there's a lot of blurred reflection, that's not quite smoothing out.
01:09 The other thing that's very dependent on anti-aliasing is the depth of field.
01:13 So, if you have Depth of Field turned on, you'll notice that things that are out of
01:16 focus, at eight samples per pixel are going to look relatively rough.
01:20 Now another thing to consider is the anti-aliasing filter.
01:23 Gaussian is a good overall, even quality, smooth anti-aliasing filter.
01:28 It's, everything's going to look relatively good and neat and clean.
01:31 There are a couple more to consider if you have some specific things going on in your scene.
01:37 I would hardly ever use box or triangle. They tend to be a little bit.
01:41 Rougher and so you don't get quite as clean a finished look.
01:44 But (UNKNOWN) can be really good for a slightly sharper image.
01:48 And Mitchell (UNKNOWN) works very well if you have kind of tight areas of shadow
01:52 where you're getting a bunch of noise, and a bunch of roughness that's not being
01:56 resolved otherwise. So, you can use those two and test them as
02:01 you see fit but, just know that, there is not a whole lot of difference in render time.
02:07 Maybe a second, on a big render, but, overall, pretty good.
02:12 Lot of times if I can't make up my mind on any of them, or if I haven't set anything
02:15 and I'm just ready to, start setting up my finished renders I personally like a look
02:19 of the Mitchell-Netravali anti-aliasing filter.
02:24 So, I'll use that one kind of as my baseline and, and then go from there.
02:29 And now you can also look here at your Environment Shading Right, and then the
02:33 Refinement Shading Right and Refinement Shading Threshold.
02:37 And these are going to feed up into Your finished antialiasing so at 1.0 which is
02:42 the default you going to kind of this course antialiasing and then you can
02:46 increase the quality here either using these presets or you can increase it
02:51 manually and this is just going to have to do with how fine.
02:59 It will actually let the pixels anti-aliasing.
03:02 Again this has a lot to do with blurred reflections and with things like Motion
03:06 Blur or Depth of Field where it's reliant on the depth of the shading here.
03:12 Now, continuing down the Refinement Shading Rate also has the same kind of effect.
03:18 So if you're getting those rough things, try decreasing one of these, and that's
03:22 going to give you a higher quality finished render and also the refinement
03:26 shading threshold. This is how close in contrast one pixel
03:31 has to be to the next before Modo's rendering engine will fire off the
03:35 anti-aliasing and it kind of feeds upwards.
03:40 So if you're getting some areas that are still kind of rough.
03:43 Like, say, a little bit of this area here on the blurred reflection of the can.
03:46 But it's in an area of low contrast. But your eye can still pick it up.
03:50 I can also see it up through here a bit. Then decreasing that refinement shading at
03:54 Threshold or just the Refinement Threshold, that is.
03:57 Will increase the number of times that. Modo has to go to the anti-aliasing filter
04:02 and less its going to smooth out things like blurred reflection like motion blur
04:05 like depth of feel. These can add quite a bit of time so be
04:10 careful when adding those in or when adjusting these.
04:14 But you'd want to problem shoot your images at the default settings and then
04:18 increase or decrease the numbers increase the quality.
04:22 As needed. And then most of these other settings will
04:26 typically be fine right off the bat. Things like our refraction depth and
04:30 reflection depth set to eight. That means light is going to bounce eight
04:34 times before the rays terminate. The only time that you're going to usually
04:38 get into a problem with this is if you have really deep transparency.
04:41 So a bunch of transparent things right one on top of another.
04:45 Then you might need to increase something like your refraction depth.
04:49 So let's scoot on down here, and the last thing that we'll look at in this case is
04:54 the geometry here. And we have micro poly displacement which
04:58 is going to give us the actual displacement with an image here like on
05:01 the can. And before we look at that, what I'm
05:04 going to do is go to the can here. And, can material.
05:09 And I'm going to turn on that basic material, that just gives me that flat
05:12 lighting and then I'm going to take my displacement and drag it up over the top
05:15 of that. So that I still get my displacement but
05:19 it's displacement on, kind of, a blank canvas.
05:22 Alright, so, if we look at this. It's a little bit on the rough side, so
05:28 here lets go to my settings. And there you can see that this is kind of
05:32 of the default settings for micro-poly displacement.
05:36 The displacement rate is 1. The ratio is 4.
05:40 The rate is going to be how fine it can get, and then in areas where it doesn't
05:43 need it. It multiplies the ratio by the rate to
05:47 give it, how little it's allowed to do. So, you want to balance this, you don't
05:52 want to have both of these set really low because even in open areas where there's,
05:55 no need for micro poly displacement like down here in the flat areas of the can.
06:01 It's still going to add a lot of polygons to the scene.
06:03 And then the last thing that we'll look at here is the minimum edge length.
06:07 And, depending on the scale of your scene, the default of 100 nanometers can be fine,
06:12 but, on a scene that's relatively small, sometimes this can be a bit too high.
06:18 So, I would personally start by just decreasing this.
06:22 Because if you have a small scene, this is going to be the first thing that shows up.
06:25 In this case I'm just going to decrease it down to ten nanometers, which is pretty
06:29 fine and then we'll let this start going here, and I'll mouse over so we can see.
06:34 And that actually cleaned these up just a little bit, but you notice up here like at
06:37 the top of these triangles, we're still getting some roughness.
06:40 So, I'm going to start now by adjusting my rate and my ratio.
06:44 So, I'm going to change the rate, and we'll cut it down to .5.
06:48 And then I'm going to multiply up the ratio accordingly, so I'm cutting the rate
06:52 in half. I'm going to multiply the ratio by 2, so
06:55 I'm going to go to 8. And that way my open areas that don't need
06:59 micro-poly displacement aren't going to get effected by this.
07:02 This is only going to effect the areas where there is fine detail.
07:06 Another thing to keep in mind here as this is catching up is that I'm only using 2048
07:10 by 2048 displacement maps, which are not going to render really well at a large scale.
07:16 If you're doing these for a project that needs to be rendered at a high resolution,
07:19 always err on the side of a slightly higher resolution image because if it's
07:23 looking great you can always sample it down.
07:27 But you don't want to have to go back in and recreate a larger image just because,
07:30 you know, your displacements are looking rough.
07:33 And in this case, just doing that cleaned it up quite significantly.
07:39 And I think at this point we're probably hitting up against the actual depth of my resolution.
07:44 It's looking cleaner than it was, but Changing this rate down to something like
07:48 0.25 pixels and then obviously uping the ratio, is not going to help because I've
07:52 kind of hit the resolution limit for this. If however I had a 4096 or an 8k image
07:58 that had a lot more Pixels for my displacement Then I could probably go back
08:02 and decrease those even more and get an even finer quality.
08:07 But in this case, that's about as good as I'm really probably going to get.
08:10 So, if I now go here and let's go back to the can material and turn off the basic
08:15 material, that's over the top of everything there.
08:22 Now, if I refine through here, we're going to look and see that we're getting a
08:25 lot better quality out of that displacement map.
08:28 It's looking a lot smoother. I'm getting less of those little kind of
08:32 jaggedy artifacts, and overall, that's really helped.
08:34 Now, in areas of my Blurry reflections. That's something that I would want to
08:39 check out those other render settings to take into account on the finished rendering.
08:44 Alternately, I can always take and use this preview mode kind of as a progressive render.
08:50 So, if I take my options here and set my resolution to full, we'll give that a
08:54 second to adjust What it's going to do is it's going to take this and make this
08:58 image the right size for whatever my render settings are, which I believe is
09:03 720 by 480. And, that way if I zoom in and out here,
09:09 it's not effecting the render, but all it's effecting is this size percentage.
09:13 See there's 100 percent. If I zoom out it's just changing That
09:16 percentage and it will snap at 100 but it's not going to effect, my finished render.
09:20 So this can be really helpful in conjunction with render passes, if you
09:24 have some problem areas of blurred reflections or things like that.
09:28 That you're getting graininess, and no matter what you do, and by increasing your
09:32 render settings, you're making everything a lot more fine and lot more detailed, and
09:36 just really upping your render time super significantly, then this is a good way to
09:39 go for your basic layer that's going to house some of those problem areas.
09:46 Because I can go through here. I can either mouse over some of the
09:49 problem areas, or I can just let it go progressively.
09:52 Or, I can mouse over the problem areas and then let it go progressively and just let
09:56 it cook kind of away while I go take a break, or while I, on a really big render,
10:00 while I go home for the night. And when you come back, this is going to
10:05 give you the best quality that can. In the time allotted.
10:09 Then I can just use regular rendering for my other passes, for my masks, for my
10:13 alternate alpha channels and for things like that, and this is going to allow me
10:17 to go beyond the basic render settings without having to go and experiment with
10:21 you know, how much anti-aliasing I need. Or how I need to adjust my refinement rate
10:28 in order to get my blurred reflections, you know, nice and clarified.
10:33 So, over all, this could be a really helpful addition to your rendering workflow.
10:37 And when you're done with this one, you can just save the image here.
10:40 And then that will give you that image ready to go.
10:43 You can combine it with your other Photoshop finished renders and end up with
10:47 Just an extra layer that has that detail and that refinement where you really need it.
10:53 Like, through here, where this was looking really splotchy.
10:55 By continually mousing over that. You know?
10:57 I'm getting that nice and clarified. And so it gives me the best quality
11:00 without having to go and fidget with the settings for some really problem areas.
11:05 All of those things will kind of help you maximize the speed and the quality of your
11:08 finished Render settings to give you the best looking product visualization renders.
11:13
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Saving your finished renders
00:02 Once you've completed your renders, you need to bring them into a format that you
00:04 can get them into Photoshop, or another image editor with.
00:07 Here you can see that I have a render completed that has four different passes,
00:11 I've got a water pass, that just has alpha channel, I have a cans pass which again
00:14 just has an alpha channel. I have a beauty pass that has, all of the
00:19 channels, and see there's the final output.
00:23 And then I have a cans, no water pass, that just is basically the other one but
00:26 without the water. And then this one has all of the different
00:31 pass groups. So if I want to get these out into
00:34 Photoshop, I can go here to Save Image. And if I just click on it it's going to
00:40 save whatever the current layer is. And that's not really what we want here.
00:44 I can also choose to save a layered image. And that's going to give me whatever pass
00:48 I'm on, and then take all of the different outputs and apply those to a different
00:52 Photoshop file. I could save passes as images, and that's
00:58 going to give me all of the different render outputs from all the different
01:01 passes as separate images, which can be a little cumbersome.
01:05 Or I can save passes as a layered image. Which is what I want to do here.
01:08 So, I'm going to save these into my renders folder here.
01:14 And I'm going to call this splash, and then just click Save.
01:22 Now, if I go over to that file with the renders.
01:29 You see that I have these different images.
01:31 And they all have splash, which is the name I input.
01:34 And then they have the name of the pass, and the, frame number and if I had
01:37 rendered out sequential frames I could render out entire animations in pass
01:41 groups and then have different versions of animations to create, so you really can't
01:45 automate a really wide process of rendering.
01:50 With this so that you can do that without having to sit around and babysit your renderings.
01:55 And I also have a preview one, which was progressively rendered in the preview
01:58 render, and I really smoothed out the reflections to give it a nice, clean appearance.
02:03 And so let's just grab all of those, and we'll pull those into Photoshop.
02:11 And each one of these then is going to have the layers that were showing inside
02:15 of Moto. So I'm going to grab all of these and drop
02:19 them down into Photoshop here. And they'll all pop up and we'll see that
02:23 I have my Different renders and on top I have my final output color and the
02:26 underneath I have all of the different ones.
02:30 There it is with just the cans. There is the splash, there's that.
02:37 And here's the one with no water, so you can see this one that is the preview cans
02:41 is just. The one that I did inside of the preview
02:44 render and you can see it smooths out some of these areas but I didn't take the time
02:47 to smooth off the lip of the can so you can see the difference there.
02:52 I just brought that in for reference so you could see how progressive render could
02:55 be saved off and used inside the file. You would want to either clean that up
03:00 more or you could always go in and mask that out and composite it in here in Photoshop.
03:05 But in this case, I want to be able to see how I can use all of these together.
03:09 So what I'm going to do is I am just going to make a new Photoshop document first here.
03:15 And what I'm going to do is I'm just going to grab all of the cans here and we'll
03:19 make a new file. And I'll paste those in.
03:23 Then I'm going to get my alpha here. We'll paste that in, and then I'll get my
03:32 alpha for the splash. We'll paste that in.
03:39 I could also merge these files together, but just for the sake of time at the
03:42 moment I'm going to do it this way, so let's Getting it all on those.
03:47 Let's go in and paste that in. Alright, so I'm going to take this main
03:52 layer here that has everything in it, and I'm going to move it down, and then I'm
03:56 going to put the one without any of the cans underneath it, and then duplicate
04:00 that one. And the reason I'm doing that is because
04:05 that one has a completely clear backdrop. It doesn't have And you have the
04:08 refractions or anything from the water on there.
04:11 But in case I need those shadows, I'm also going to just duplicate out that one.
04:15 So now I could just simply take and create masks for each of these.
04:19 So I'm going to copy all of my splashes, and then we'll create.
04:26 Let's hide everything else here so we can see how this works.
04:29 Create a simple alpha, and I'll paste that into my alpha channel.
04:34 And there you can see I've got just my splashes there, and I'll do the same thing
04:38 with the cans. So I'll select all that and copy it.
04:42 I'll go down to my can layer without the splashes on it.
04:45 We will make a mask on that layer as well. (NOISE) And, paste that in.
04:51 (NOISE) And then we'll unhide that so, there you can see I've got, my can with my
04:58 splashes separated. Right now, it's over a transparent
05:04 background, but I could either bring in this one, or I could bring in the one that
05:07 has the splashes, which I guess in this case is going to be the best one, 'cuz it
05:10 has the little bit of the floor underneath.
05:14 But I can still just kind of mask out where I have my splashes.
05:19 So, I can make individual color corrections to these.
05:22 I could take and, say, duplicate my splashes Maybe do a Levels call on them.
05:28 Just blur them and set those to screen and this will give me a little bit of kind of
05:33 a bloom coming off of the splashes themselves.
05:39 Let's do that. I'll set that to screen.
05:42 There we go, so that's a little bit on the heavy handed side but, you get the idea.
05:47 So I have a lot of control now over what happens with my individual layers.
05:52 I could also go in and do individual sharpening, color correction.
05:58 I could easily go in and pull different hues through these, and as a matter of
06:02 fact, I could even go in here. And get my cans by themselves.
06:10 Get that surface ID, copy that. And paste that in here.
06:17 And then I can use this to create even another layer of masks.
06:22 So if I just quickly go here and grab that.
06:27 And then go down to my cans here, I can duplicate that one out.
06:30 So now if we hide that and I adjust my hue and saturation, you can see that I can
06:34 affect the hue and saturation on that one can without affecting the other ones.
06:40 So, this gives you a very effective way of getting a lot of post-production done
06:44 inside of Photoshop without have to take all the time To go out and render out all
06:48 of these different options separately. So using a mixture of my past groups and
06:55 my render outputs and then saving out my images as Photoshop files I get a lot of
06:59 options for creating good compelling post effects.
07:05 Without having to go and re-render, and that's the big key there.
07:09 The most that you can do without re-rendering, the better your project's
07:11 going to be because it's going to save you all the time and frustration of going back
07:13 and waiting. Large files with high resolution you'll
07:17 waiting hours for those renders again just to make one simple change.
07:21 If you render out all of your past groups like we've looked at here and you save
07:24 those out properly, you'll be able to get at them quickly, effectively, and make
07:28 good fine tuned adjustments post render time.
07:32
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