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In this course, photographer and scanning expert Taz Tally describes how to use the LaserSoft Imaging SilverFast software to scan photos, line art, film negatives, and other printed documents, while getting the highest quality scans possible from your scanner. The course begins with an overview of SilverFast, then takes a task-oriented look at the SilverFast automatic and manual scanning modes, showing numerous scanning projects from start to finish. The course also explores a variety of specialized scanning topics, such as removing color casts and scratches, High Dynamic Range (HDR) scanning, and wet scanning.
In this video, I'd like to show you how using the manual interface in SilverFast, you can convert a color continuous tone image into a grayscale image. And we are going to be using a lot of the same tools we've used in color and grayscale correction, we are just going to use them in a slightly different way. Okay. There are couple of different ways to go about doing this, but probably the easiest and most efficient way is to go ahead and just first convert the image into grayscale. After you've set your Reflective and Positive, then click on 16 bit to 8 bit, or if you wanted to end up with a 16 bit image, then you could click 16 Bit here.
But we are going to end up with an 8 Bit image. We are going to do all the correction right here in the Scanner interface. We're going to choose 16 Bit to 8 Bit. And notice that automatically converts the image to grayscale and frankly, it doesn't look half bad, but we can do better. So what we are going to do is what we always do, is we're going to pull our scan frame in close and then click the Magnifying Glass, and then we can fine-tune the placement of our scan frame. And what really makes this image is the wave, and the spray, we want to make sure we get that correct. But we are working just in grayscale here.
One of the reasons I went to grayscale first rather than trying to do some of the correction in color is one of the things that you will find out is when you go from color to grayscale is sometimes the location of the diffuse white highlights change. Let's in this case go see where the Highlights and the Shadow points will come up, and let's just click there, and oh! Yeah, we see we need to pull our frame in a little bit more. All right! So there is the diffuse highlight. It's about in the same position it was in the previous image. Okay, that's fine! And we'll check out the shadow, yeah, we are good to go. So let's click and click to create our highlights and shadow points and we will do an evaluation of them; 19 and 87.
We know we want this one to be around 5 %, and we want this one to be around 95%. We have a variety of tools we can use. Let's just go ahead and go to the Pipette tool, and then just click on white for the Highlight, go to the Shadow, put it at 95-96%. Not bad looking! Now, do we want to fine-tune that? Sure! We could. What I might do is darken the image just a little bit by going to our Midtone slider, make it a little bit darker, and let's throw a little bit more contrast at it, a little bit goes a long way here.
And then finally, we can fine-tune this up by going to our Selective Color To Grayscale. And what we can do here is, if you remember the original image had quite a bit of a blue cast to it, even though we've chosen 16 Bit to 8 Bit, SilverFast still has access to all of those other channels. So we can use this Selective Color To Grayscale, and since we had a blue image, look what we can do. We can adjust the overall Brightness and Contrast of this image, -6, to give it even more attitude. And you can play with the other sliders.
For instance, look at this one here. We can pull this one up to create a little bit of a Midtone and we might even Shift key and put a Sample tool over there and get that close to 50s, we can get. So there we go! There is our conversion to grayscale from color, using the standard tools that we use, plus a little bit of a fine-tuning technique of using the Selective Color to the Grayscale. Once again of course, we can bring up our Unsharp Mask tool, and we will apply our standard 101, maybe up the Threshold a little bit like we did before.
If we want to go to the Expert tool to protect the shadows, brought that down to about 90. There we go! After the Unsharp Mask, I need to close it up, and go back to our Scan dimensions, and let's go ahead and put in a name, and we will call this Kodiak Wave_GS_300. A logical name, a bit depth, a resolution, so we can tell what the file is just by looking at it. And again, we are going to use the 300 pixels per inch for our high-quality image and save this out as either a TIFF or a .PSD file, depending upon whether we are just going to print or whether we are going to go to edit.
You have the freedom to go to JPEG directly if you want to. That's just my preferred workflow. There we go! So we are ready to scan. Click that Scan button. And once the scan is complete, we can click the Open Image button here, and SilverFast will direct whatever application is set to open those kinds of files, in this case TIFF files, which in my case is going to be Photoshop. There we have it! A black-and-white high contrast version of the original color image. And we know the highlights are going to be right on the money, and the shadows are not going to be filled in, and notice that little bit of a midtone highlight area that we put back here that created a little bit of contrast against that somewhat monotonous dark slope. So there it is! Go forth and scan.
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