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It's a small world, and capturing it with a photograph can be challenging. In this course, photographer, author, and teacher Ben Long takes you on a fantastic voyage into the realm of the tiny, detailing the gear and shooting techniques necessary to capture extreme close-ups of everything from products to posies.
After touring the possibilities of macro photography, the course details essential gear at several price levels, including lenses, flashes, and other accessories. Next, Ben explores the special challenges of macro photography: dealing with moving subjects, working with extremely shallow depth of field, focusing, lighting, and more.
The course also explores advanced close-up tools and post-processing techniques, such as using Adobe Photoshop to "stack" multiple shots to yield wider depth of field than a single shot can convey.
As you saw in the last movie, extension tubes can get you closer to your subject, but you will definitely pay an exposure price when you use them, because they will darken your image, and require you to use slower shutter speeds and lighter apertures. For close-up photography, extension tubes can also sometimes be overkill, because they will get you all the way into that macro range. If you find that you're wanting to get just a little bit closer, then instead of an extension tube, you might want to consider a close-up lens. This is a special attachment that screws onto the end of your camera's lens. But unlike an extension tube, a close-up lens is actually an optical element. There is glass in here, and that glass gives you extra magnifications.
Now, there are a lot of close-up lenses on the market, and some of them are very inexpensive, and for the most part, you want to stay away from all of them, but two different close-up lenses. The problem is that the glass in most close-up lenses, especially the inexpensive ones, just isn't very good. What's more, engineering an optical element to work on a range of unspecified lenses is very complicated. If you have a nice lens on your camera, it's a shame to wreck its image quality by sticking a bad close-up lens on the front. So, here is how it works. I have the 24-105 on my camera, and I'm going to take a picture of this flower.
And, as you have already seen, with this lens, I can get to about right here, and still achieve focus. Any closer, I am inside the minimum focus distance, and everything goes soft. So, I'm going to take a picture here. So, here's my shot. Now, I'm going to stick my close-up lens on; it just screws on to the front, just like a filter. And, just like filter, I want to be careful about . . . I don't want to screw it on too tight, because I've got another filter on here, and I don't want them to all come off together. Now, with the close-up lens on, I can get into here. So, without the close-up lens, I was out at about here. With the close-up lens, I can get a few inches closer. I'm still focusing just by moving in and out.
I'm not seeing a light drop-off like I did with the extension tubes. And, when I am in focus, this is what I can get. So, this does let me get a lit bit of extra reach, and get in a little bit closer. Now, as I said, I can really only recommend two close-up rings. Both of them are made by Canon. Don't worry. Even if you don't use a Canon camera, these can still be made to work with your lens. Over the years, Canon has made a range of close-up lenses. At the time of this shooting, you can get the 250D or the 500D. This is the 500D.
Now, the number is simply a measure of magnification. And, we'll talk about what that means in a minute. The D means that it's a dual-element lens; that is, there are actually two lenses inside, just as there are multiple elements inside your normal camera lens. In the past, Canon has also sold single element close-up lenses, which lack that D moniker. Single-element lenses are cheaper, but the dual element close-up lenses definitely yield higher-quality. You can get a 500D for about $150 bucks, so it's a little pricey, but it's less than a new lens, and it does yield very good image quality.
It's a reasonable way to do some experimenting with close-up shooting without having to invest in a macro lens. They come in a few different thread sizes, so you need to be sure to get one that matches the filter thread size of the lens that you want to attach it to. If your lens doesn't have a matching thread size, you can get a step-up ring that will adapt your lens threads to the close-up lens's threads. If you're a non-Canon shooter, you'll likely have to do this. Even if you have a macro lens, a close-up lens can be a handy thing to have in your kit. For one thing, it'll give some extra oomph to your macro lens, but more importantly it's light and easy to carry.
So, if you don't want to tow your macro lens around, you can just take your regular lens, and one of these, and still have a good close-up option, not a full macro option, but it's going to let you get a little bit closer. Now, the 500D is intended for lenses with a focal length of 70-300 mm. You can put it on any lens that has the correct thread size, but at shorter focal lengths, you're just not going to see much of an advantage. To figure out how much magnification you'll get with a close-up lens, you divide the focal length of your lens by the number rating of the close-up lens. For example, on my 24-105, if I set it to 100, 100 divided by 500 (this is the 500D) gives 0.2.
So, with my close-up lens, an object will have a size of 0.2X. 1X is actual size, so 0.2 is going to be a little bit smaller than that. A close-up lens scores over an extension tube, because it doesn't cut the light that's passing through the lens, and because once you focus through it, you can zoom in or out, and your image will still be in focus. With an extension tube, you have to refocus if you've zoomed your lens. However, a close-up lens is more expensive than a set of inexpensive extension tubes, but it's also smaller and easier to carry.
Again, these Canon close-up lenses are the best ones out there. And, even as good as they are, they still have some softness around the edges. You'll just need to evaluate for yourself whether it's a deal-breaking softness. Note that if you have a polarizing filter, or even a UV or skylight filter, that can cause some bad vignetting when used with the close- up lens. So, if you normally keep one of those on your lens, you may want to take it off when you use the filter. You'll just have to do some tests of your own to see if you really need to do that. Extension tubes are going to let you get much closer than a close-up lens. Extension tubes will actually get you into full macro power, something that this can't do. Also, adding extension tubes to a macro lens gives you a lot more power than adding a close-up lens to a macro lens.
So, if you can only afford either extension tubes or a close-up lens, I'd go with the extension tubes. If you'd like a light-weight, easy-to-carry option for getting a little more close-up power, then a close-up lens is a good way to go.
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