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Photoshop CC One-on-One is back, and this installment teaches you how to build on your basic knowledge and achieve next-level effects with this premiere image-editing program. Industry pro Deke McClelland shows you how to seamlessly move and patch areas of a photo with the Content-Aware toolset; stretch the brightness of a scene with automatic and custom Levels adjustments; create intricate designs with text and shapes; and morph an image with layer effects and transformations. Deke also shares his techniques for sharpening details, whether addressing noise and highlight/shadow clipping or camera shake, and converting a full-color image to black and white. The final chapters show you how to best print and save images for the web, making sure all your hard work pays off in the final output.
In this movie, I'll introduce you to the Liquify filter, and I'll also show you how to use its most important tools Warp and Reconstruct. Nowadays, you can apply Liquify as a dynamic Smart Filter. So the first thing you want to do is convert this flat image to an independent layer, by double-clicking on the background here inside the Layers panel. And I'll go ahead and call this layer Model and click OK. And incidentally, the reason I created an independent layer before converting the background to a Smart Object, is that way you can assign the Smart Object a name.
Next, armed with the Rectangular Marquee tool, right-click inside the image window and choose Convert to Smart Object. Now, you can apply Liquify as an editable Smart Filter, by going up to the Filter menu and choosing the Liquify command. Which brings up a kind of independent utility that just happens to run inside Photoshop. Just so that you and I are on the same page, press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac, which changes the Cancel button to a Reset button, and then click on it. And what that does is not only reset the image, which we don't really need to do, but it resets the numerical values as well.
Now I'll zoom in on the image by pressing Ctrl+Plus or Cmd+Plus on the Mac. And all the other navigational features work the same too. So, for example, if I wanted to scroll the image, I would press the Spacebar key. But you have to take care on the PC, because notice my Cancel button is active. Which means if I press the Spacebar, it's just like clicking the Cancel button and I'll leave the dialog box, which of course is highly irritating. Anyway, I'll go back to the filter by once again choosing Liquify from the Filter menu. If that happens to you, if you have an active button at any point here on the PC, then just go ahead and click inside a numerical value.
And then, when I zoom in, I could now press the Spacebar in order to drag the image to a new location. You can also zoom by the way, by pressing the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on the Mac. You don't have to press the Spacebar as well, and then click. To zoom out, you press the Ctrl and Alt keys, again without the Spacebar, or the Cmd and Option keys on a Mac and click. Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and scroll the image over a little bit. Notice in the upper left corner, we have a series of tools, starting with the so called Forward Warp tool.
I say so called because it's the only Warp tool. There is no top secret hidden Backward Warp tool. You only warp in one direction when working with the Liquify filter. Which is why I just call this the Warp tool, and so most folks at Adobe, because its keyboard shortcut is W for warp. And that's worth remembering, because this is the most useful tool in Liquify's arsenal. I'm going to go ahead and brush in the left side of this woman's face. And if your working along with me, take special care to work in very small brush strokes.
You don't want to do one of these numbers, certainly not something like this. But not even something along these lines. Because if you do, you're going to end up with the equivalent of digital stretch marks. Notice how obviously stretched that hair in the background is, and how obviously squished the side of her face is now. So, I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac in order to undo that change. And by the way, the whole undo structure works just as it does inside Photoshop. So if I press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z again, I redo the brush stroke.
If I want to back-step incrementally, I press Ctrl+Alt+Z or Cmd+Option+Z on the Mac. If I want to step forward, I press Ctrl+Shift+Z, or Cmd+Shift+Z on the Mac. In my case, I want to undo that last brushstroke. So I'll press Ctrl+Shift+Z, or Cmd+Shift+Z on the Mac. And I'll go ahead and step out a little bit so I can see more of what I'm doing. I want her to have a little bit of a cheekbone, so I'm going to tuck the sides of her jaw in ever so slightly. And I can't stress this enough. You want to work as incrementally as possible inside the Liquify filter.
Patience really counts. Now that said, you can work with any size brush you want, and you can change the size of the brush stroke using the square bracket keys, next to the P as in Poll key on an American keyboard. I'll press the right bracket key a couple of times in order to increase the brush size, and you can see over here on the right hand side of the screen that I've raised it 250 pixels. And now I'll go ahead and brush inward on the forehead, just a little bit to tuck that hair down. Now let's say I make a mess of something and brush in across the eye let's say, and I end up shoving it too far.
Then you can switch to the next tool down, which is the Reconstruct tool. It has a keyboard shortcut of R. And rather than undoing your last brush stroke, it allows you to incrementally paint it away. So the more that you paint, the more you're going to reconstruct that area. Now press the W key to switch back to the Warp tool, and I'll press the left bracket key a couple of times in order to reduce the size of my brush. And I'll go ahead and tuck in this right jaw as you see me doing here.
And I might go ahead and tuck in the right-hand side of the face with the intention of creating more of a cheek bone effect there as well. Now let's say, I decide I've tucked the chin upward too much. Another way to access the Reconstruct tool is to press the Alt or Option key when you're working with the Warp tool. And then as you paint, you'll reconstruct like so. To return to the Warp tool, you just release the Alt or Option key. Another way to reconstruct is turn on this advanced mode check box, and that'll expose this Reconstruct button.
Click on it to bring up this dialog box, and notice that it allows you to incrementally undo everything that you've done. So, if you crank the amount value down to zero, then you'll restore your original image. If you take it up to 100%, you'll restore all of your changes. And then anything in between will give you partial reconstruction. For my part, I'll set it to 70 and then click OK. Yet another way to reconstruct, is to click on this Restore All button, which will go ahead and undo all of your changes like so.
And the difference between that and Alt or Option+Clicking on the Cancel button is that clicking on Restore All does not reset any of the numerical values. Fortunately, Restore All is undo-able, just by pressing Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac. Once you feel like you've done enough to the image, then you can just go ahead and click the OK button in order to apply your changes. And because we're applying Liquify to a Smart Object, we can always revisit the dialog box at anytime just by double-clicking on the word liquefy here inside the Layers panel.
And that's how you work with the Liquify filter, including the Warp and Reconstruct tools here inside Photoshop.
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