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Real focus happens inside the camera's lens element. The sharpening features in Photoshop CS3 exaggerate the contrast along edges in a photograph to transform a well-focused image into an outstanding image. In Photoshop CS3 Sharpening Images, Deke McClelland teaches a host of sharpening and noise reduction techniques, including using filters such as Unsharp Mask, Smart Sharpen, High Pass, and Reduce Noise. The training teaches the essentials of sharpening, including what it does, why it's important, and how the filters function. Plus, the training covers Deke's recommended best practices, including the four distinct varieties of sharpening, which can be used independently or in combination with each other. Photoshop CS3 Sharpening Images is about how to transform images from looking good to looking their absolute best. Exercise files accompany the course.
Now that we've discussed commercial reproduction, lets talk about printing to a local device, meaning an inkjet or continuous-tone printer. I am looking at the Recommended settings.PSD file that's found inside the 08_for_output folder. I am going to go ahead and bring up my Layer Comps palette right here and I am going to switch to the Inkjet comp in order to change out the text inside of this document. Notice since it's inkjet or continuous-tone. And by continuous-tone, I mean a dye-sublimation printer something along those lines where the ink is laid down premixed, so you're not using some kind of dot pattern.
Again, we are working with a print resolution over here on the right hand side. So you want to match your print resolution. One of several common print resolutions available to you with your Smart Sharpen setting. So this time we are going to work with this Smart Sharpen command, because we are going to allow our highlights and shadows to get slightly clipped, so that we have these nice crisp edges, because both inkjet and continuous-tone printing come out better. They're capable of producing much better higher quality prints than commercial reproduction. As strange as that sounds.
If you know that, you know of course its that way. But a lot of people think commercial reproduction, my Gosh! that's the best output you're going to get. Actually your inkjet printer, your local like $200 to $300 inkjet printer is capable of printing much, much better artwork than halftones are capable of reproducing. But you have to use good paper, you have to use good ink, and so on. So you want to use high quality supplies. I am assuming you are printing at the highest quality settings that your printer accommodates with the best glossy paper that you can get a hold of. So at a 180 pixels per inch, which is very low resolution, about as low as you want to go, you would want to work with a Smart Sharpeni settings here of 140% that'd be Amount value, and 1.8 pixels for your Radius value.
The Blend Mode would be set to Luminosity. By the way, in all cases the Opacity should be a 100%. So you are not going to modify the Opacity value, and the More Accurate checkbox will be turned off. I should have mentioned right here that we are working with the Lens Blur setting, so you want to Remove to be set to Lens Blur for the best results. At 220 pixels per inch, we go ahead and take that Radius value up to 2.2 pixels because we need thicker radiuses, so that our halos remain barely, barely visible, and these are larger values than we applied with High Pass, because when we are working with Lens Blur inside of Smart Sharpen we get thinner halos.
That means of course in order to get an equivalent effect we need to take the Amount value down. As we are raising the Radius value, we need to take the Amount value down. So we are going to take it down to 125% and so on. Notice right here, 300 pixels per inch, we are applying an amount value of 100%, so everything is based on 300 PPI once again, 3.0 pixels of Radius and of course we are sticking with Luminosity. Now notice 3.0 pixels of Radius, that means that you just go ahead and divide the Resolution value by 100 in order to figure out the Radius value.
So it's very easy to do the math in the case of inkjet output. So notice 180 pixels per inche is 1.8 pixels. 360 pixels per inch requires a Radius value of 3.6 pixels and so on. Again, this is assuming that you're going to see the image up close; well, as close as a foot. You can't get within a foot of the artwork. You can also get farther away from it if you want to but you cant get as close as a foot. If you cannot get close to your artwork, if this is very, very large scale artwork on a billboard or the side of a bus, all those different sceneries, and you just cannot get closer than 5 feet to that artwork, then go ahead and multiply these values times five.
So if you have a very distant piece of artwork that has a resolution of 180 pixels per inch then you want to take a Radius value of 1.8. You want to whip out your calculator. What would that be? Actually, I've got one sitting right here, 1.8 x 5 would be 9. So you actually apply a Radius value of 9 pixels as insane as that sounds. You would stick with the Amount value of 140%, incidentally. So just take whatever the Resolution value is divide it by 100 and then multiple it by 5. So if your print resolution is just a 100 pixels per inch,.
Right? Because you can get away with low resolution when the image is very far away, then your Radius should be 5 pixels and so on. So there you have it. Those are the ideal sharpening settings, and in the next exercise we are going to put those sharpening settings to work by applying them to our 300 pixel per inch landscape image.
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