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Learn to think like a painter and render images from photographs that look like they were created with oils or acrylics, using the latest digital artist's tools. Author and artist John Derry introduces the process of interpreting a photograph into a painted work of art. He begins by explaining his system of visual vocabularies, which describe how to replace the elements of an image with expressive painterly qualities, and also shares the custom brush sets and actions he uses to achieve these results in Photoshop. The course also covers working with filters, layers, effects, and more to add further detail and texture.
In the previous videos, we have looked at a couple of different filters for removing noise. In this one, we are going to take a look at the Smart Blur filter. And in these chapters, I'm intentionally going up the degree of sophistication as we move forward, so now we are getting to a little bit better filter than we saw before. Each one exerts a little bit more specific control over the reduction of noise within an image while maintaining the edges of contrasted areas. So once again let's go and open up our image in chapter06, and we definitely want to move this into 100%, so we can see all the detail.
This kind of manipulation is something you would want to see at 100%. If you watch it at reduced magnification, you won't get a true sense of what's happening. So let's go up to the Filter menu and go to Blur > Smart Blur. Now the Smart Blur filter does not have a preview on the actual image. We have to see what's happening within the window of the filter itself. As I have done before, the settings that we had earlier in our filters that we've looked at work pretty well.
So I am going to go around 5 and 25 right here, and you can already see this does a really interesting job. I particularly like the way this filter maintains edges. Let's also talk a little about Quality. You have three settings. I don't see that much difference in them, but High sounds good because you want to get the highest quality, so I always set it on High. I don't know if it's always worth it, but you might as well take advantage of the fact that a little bit more heavy computation is being done on the image when you choose High over Low frequency.
The biggest difference actually is in the amount of time it takes. So here's our image, and I will just move it a little bit so we can see how it's applied this filter. It's done a very nice job of maintaining crisp edges on all of the contrasting areas, and yet it's really simplified the non-sharp areas. So it's very good at removing high-frequency detail and yet maintaining all of the edges within. I can't tell you which one of these filters is the best one, because every image has its own set of frequencies that you're going to be removing, and you just don't know which one is going to work.
So the best thing you can do is experiment with these different filters to see which one works best with a particular image that you are in the process of translating. Now, we are going to go up yet another notch in the next video and take a look at a third-party filter, which is probably the pinnacle of being able to do simplification on photographic images.
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