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Photoshop CS6 Essential Training
Illustration by John Hersey

Touring the Camera Raw interface


From:

Photoshop CS6 Essential Training

with Julieanne Kost

Video: Touring the Camera Raw interface

The first thing that we need to do is familiarize ourselves with the Camera Raw interface. We'll go ahead and select this Lupin.jpg file. Now, I don't want you to double- click on it because that would open it directly into Photoshop; instead, we're going to click on the Open in Camera Raw icon at the top of Bridge. Now in a previous movie, I went into Full Screen mode, but your interface might look a little different. If you click on this icon, it will toggle you in and out of Full Screen mode. So if yours looks like this, you can either click on the icon or tap the F key to get to Full Screen mode.
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  1. 1m 42s
    1. What is Photoshop?
      1m 42s
  2. 1m 11s
    1. Welcome
      1m 11s
  3. 32m 15s
    1. What is Adobe Bridge?
      2m 49s
    2. Getting photos from a camera
      4m 27s
    3. A tour of workspaces in Bridge
      5m 32s
    4. Customizing how thumbnails are displayed
      3m 44s
    5. Changing file names and batch renaming
      2m 58s
    6. Adding basic metadata with metadata templates
      5m 10s
    7. Creating and applying keywords to images
      4m 58s
    8. Viewing images in Full Screen Preview mode
      2m 37s
  4. 27m 1s
    1. Using Review mode to filter out rejected images
      4m 18s
    2. Saving images in collections
      4m 23s
    3. Rating and labeling images
      3m 46s
    4. Using the Filter panel to view different subsets
      4m 16s
    5. Using smart collections
      4m 18s
    6. Viewing final selects in a slideshow
      2m 21s
    7. Organizing groups of images into stacks
      3m 39s
  5. 32m 8s
    1. Comparing RAW and JPEG files
      6m 10s
    2. Starting in Camera Raw instead of Photoshop
      3m 12s
    3. Touring the Camera Raw interface
      9m 13s
    4. Previewing before and after adjustments
      3m 58s
    5. Toggling onscreen shadow and highlight clipping warnings
      3m 11s
    6. Choosing output settings
      3m 36s
    7. Saving a copy without going to Photoshop
      2m 48s
  6. 38m 37s
    1. Using the nondestructive Crop tool
      4m 42s
    2. Correcting a horizon line with the Straighten tool
      2m 41s
    3. Fixing color casts with the White Balance tool
      3m 50s
    4. Fixing blown-out highlights
      2m 56s
    5. Revealing hidden shadow details
      3m 7s
    6. Correcting lens distortion
      3m 25s
    7. Making perspective corrections to images
      2m 40s
    8. Removing color fringing and chromatic aberrations
      2m 28s
    9. Sharpening the details
      7m 45s
    10. Making an average photo great
      5m 3s
  7. 51m 2s
    1. Using the Graduated Filter tool
      6m 57s
    2. Making local adjustments with the Adjustments Brush
      10m 19s
    3. Retouching blemishes with the Spot Removal tool
      3m 41s
    4. Exploring a quick portrait retouching technique using Clarity
      4m 31s
    5. Converting to black and white
      2m 36s
    6. Editing images directly with the Targeted Adjustment tool
      3m 21s
    7. Creating selective color effects with the Adjustment Brush
      6m 5s
    8. Using sepia and split-tone effects
      3m 33s
    9. Adding digital film grain texture effects
      2m 20s
    10. Adding vignettes and border effects
      3m 59s
    11. Saving variations within a single file with the Snapshot command
      3m 40s
  8. 15m 13s
    1. Copying and pasting settings across files
      2m 4s
    2. Processing multiple files in Camera Raw
      3m 22s
    3. Saving and using the library of Camera Raw presets
      6m 48s
    4. Using Image Processor to batch process files
      2m 59s
  9. 30m 24s
    1. Opening files from Bridge
      2m 7s
    2. Opening files from Mini Bridge
      2m 51s
    3. Customizing the Mini Bridge panel
      3m 59s
    4. Using the Application frame
      3m 34s
    5. Managing panels
      5m 14s
    6. Switching and saving workspaces
      4m 39s
    7. Switching tools using the keyboard
      2m 47s
    8. Customizing the keyboard shortcuts
      5m 13s
  10. 10m 25s
    1. Working with tabbed documents
      1m 34s
    2. Arranging documents
      1m 52s
    3. Stopping Photoshop from tabbing documents
      1m 32s
    4. Panning and zooming
      3m 14s
    5. Cycling through different screen modes
      2m 13s
  11. 15m 44s
    1. Understanding file formats
      4m 36s
    2. Choosing the resolution you need
      4m 39s
    3. Understanding Resize vs. Resample
      4m 11s
    4. Working with print sizes and resolution
      2m 18s
  12. 32m 53s
    1. Using Undo and the History panel
      3m 7s
    2. Using crop options
      3m 54s
    3. Understanding Hide vs. Delete for the Crop tool
      1m 46s
    4. Bringing back hidden pixels with Reveal All
      40s
    5. Making the canvas bigger with the Crop tool
      3m 31s
    6. Making the canvas bigger using the Relative option in the Canvas Size command
      2m 18s
    7. Using the Perspective Crop tool
      1m 27s
    8. Straightening a crooked image
      2m 29s
    9. Scaling, skewing, and rotating with Free Transform
      5m 46s
    10. Making nondestructive transformations with Smart Objects
      2m 34s
    11. Warping images
      2m 48s
    12. Preserving important elements with Content-Aware Scale
      2m 33s
  13. 30m 41s
    1. Exploring layer basics
      11m 16s
    2. Loading, selecting, and transforming layers
      8m 4s
    3. Organizing layers using layer groups
      5m 3s
    4. Merging, rasterizing, and flattening layers
      6m 18s
  14. 43m 11s
    1. Using the Marquee and Lasso tools
      5m 43s
    2. Combining selections
      4m 4s
    3. Converting a selection into a layer mask
      5m 29s
    4. Using the Quick Selection tool
      4m 35s
    5. Selecting soft-edged objects using Refine Edge
      9m 42s
    6. Touching up a layer mask with the Brush tool
      7m 22s
    7. Changing the opacity, size, and hardness of the painting tools
      3m 17s
    8. Blending images with a gradient layer mask
      2m 59s
  15. 34m 36s
    1. Introducing adjustment layers
      3m 47s
    2. Starting with a preset
      2m 18s
    3. Improving tonal quality with Levels
      5m 31s
    4. Increasing midtone contrast with Curves
      6m 44s
    5. Removing a color cast with Auto Color
      2m 30s
    6. Changing the color temperature with Photo Filter
      2m 29s
    7. Shifting colors with Hue/Saturation
      4m 41s
    8. Making washed-out colors pop with Vibrance
      2m 48s
    9. Converting color to black and white
      1m 47s
    10. Controlling which layers are affected by an adjustment layer
      2m 1s
  16. 19m 33s
    1. Adjusting shadows and highlights
      5m 44s
    2. Replacing color using Selective Color
      3m 49s
    3. Using fill layers to create a hand-painted look
      6m 5s
    4. Using a gradient fill layer to add a color wash
      3m 55s
  17. 52m 9s
    1. Removing blemishes with the Spot Healing Brush and the Patch tool
      12m 42s
    2. De-emphasizing wrinkles with the Healing Brush
      4m 52s
    3. Smoothing skin and pores with the High Pass filter
      6m 19s
    4. Making teeth bright and white with a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer
      3m 21s
    5. Brightening eyes with Curves
      7m 0s
    6. Taming flyaway hair with the Patch tool
      3m 44s
    7. Removing unwanted details with Content-Aware Fill
      5m 49s
    8. Body sculpting with Liquify
      8m 22s
  18. 24m 12s
    1. Creating panoramas with Photomerge and Auto-Blend
      4m 48s
    2. Combining multiple frames in an action sequence
      8m 44s
    3. Swapping heads in a family portrait
      10m 40s
  19. 38m 26s
    1. Overview of filters
      2m 52s
    2. Applying filters nondestructively using Smart Filters
      5m 18s
    3. Creating a soft glow with the Gaussian Blur filter
      3m 35s
    4. Creating an infrared look with Diffuse Glow
      2m 14s
    5. Adding noise with the Add Noise filter
      6m 27s
    6. Sharpening an image with Unsharp Mask
      5m 11s
    7. Giving an image texture with the Texturizer filter
      1m 49s
    8. Using the Field, Iris, and Tilt-Shift Blurs
      6m 1s
    9. Creating a painting with the Oil Paint filter
      1m 34s
    10. Applying a filter to multiple layers
      3m 25s
  20. 22m 16s
    1. Cycling through the blending modes
      6m 42s
    2. Adding a lens flare effect with Screen
      2m 40s
    3. Scanning or photographing paper to add a deckled edge
      3m 1s
    4. Making a cast shadow more realistic with Multiply
      5m 21s
    5. Sharpening an image with High Pass and Overlay
      2m 26s
    6. Adding a realistic off-center vignette
      2m 6s
  21. 20m 9s
    1. Exploring character (point) type
      7m 6s
    2. Adding paragraph (area) type
      3m 38s
    3. Adding type on a path
      4m 44s
    4. Clipping an image inside type
      3m 3s
    5. Warping type
      1m 38s
  22. 15m 57s
    1. Adding a drop shadow effect
      6m 15s
    2. Adding edges, textures, and color overlays using layer styles
      4m 27s
    3. Creating a transparent logo or watermark
      2m 42s
    4. Knowing how and when to scale layer effects
      2m 33s
  23. 15m 45s
    1. Creating contact sheets
      2m 49s
    2. Using the Output workspace in Bridge
      5m 32s
    3. Exporting web photo galleries
      4m 20s
    4. Saving for the web
      3m 4s
  24. 23m 38s
    1. Working with video clips
      9m 29s
    2. Adding special effects to video
      5m 45s
    3. Adding pans and zooms to still images
      8m 24s
  25. 1m 10s
    1. Goodbye
      1m 10s

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Photoshop CS6 Essential Training
10h 30m Beginner Apr 26, 2012

Viewers: in countries Watching now:

In Photoshop CS6 Essential Training, Julieanne Kost demonstrates how to produce high-quality images in a short amount of time, using a combination of Adobe Photoshop CS6, Bridge, and Camera Raw.

The course details the Photoshop features and creative options, and shows efficient ways to perform common editing tasks, including noise reduction, shadow and highlight detail recovery, retouching, and combining multiple images. Along the way, the course explores techniques for nondestructive editing and compositing using layers, blending modes, layer masks, and much more.

Topics include:
  • Organizing images in Bridge
  • Adding metadata such as copyrights and keywords
  • Editing in Camera Raw versus in Photoshop
  • Retouching in Camera Raw
  • Batch processing files
  • Customizing the Photoshop workspaces
  • Choosing a file format and resolution
  • Cropping, scaling, and rotating images
  • Working with layers, including merging and flattening layers
  • Creating selections and layer masks
  • Toning and changing the color of images
  • Adjusting shadows and highlights
  • Retouching and cloning
  • Creating panoramas from multiple images
  • Adding filters and sharpening
  • Working with blend modes
  • Adding type
  • Working with video in Photoshop CS6
Subjects:
Photography Raw Processing
Software:
Photoshop
Author:
Julieanne Kost

Touring the Camera Raw interface

The first thing that we need to do is familiarize ourselves with the Camera Raw interface. We'll go ahead and select this Lupin.jpg file. Now, I don't want you to double- click on it because that would open it directly into Photoshop; instead, we're going to click on the Open in Camera Raw icon at the top of Bridge. Now in a previous movie, I went into Full Screen mode, but your interface might look a little different. If you click on this icon, it will toggle you in and out of Full Screen mode. So if yours looks like this, you can either click on the icon or tap the F key to get to Full Screen mode.

Now you will notice that all of the tools that you'll need in Camera Raw are across the top. We've got the Zoom tool and the Hand tool, which will help us to navigate our image. We've got two eyedropper tools: one is a White Balance tool and the other is the Color Sampler tool. Then we got to Target Adjustment tool, we've got a Crop tool and a Straighten tool, we've got our Heal and Stamp tool, we've got our Remove Redeye, our Adjustment Brush, our Graduated Filter and our preferences, as well as some rotate tools.

You'll notice that when I hover on top of a tool, we get a tooltip that says the name of the tool as well as the keyboard shortcut. In this case, it's H for the hand tool. So all of the keyboard shortcuts can be accessed by just tapping on the single letter that represents that tool. In the center of course is our large preview area and in the lower-left are different ways to zoom. You can quickly go to 100%, for example, or we can choose Fit in View so that we can see the entire image.

On the right-hand side, we have all of our panels. The Basic panel is the default panel, but you simply can click on any of the other icons to move to the other panels. Let's take a look at some of the features in the Basic panel. Here we can change the temperature or the tint, the color, basically, of the image. We can change exposure as well as contrast. We can change our highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks. Let's take a look at what that might look like. I might want the overall exposure down a little bit on this image, to just darken it up, and I might want to add a little bit of contrast.

Now, as you move these sliders, you will want to keep your eye on the histogram up at the top. The histogram is just a visual representation of all of the pixels or all of the values in your image. You want to make sure that as you move the sliders, you aren't pushing the pixels off to either side of the histogram, so you don't want to make your whites too white, so that those values start kind of climbing up the wall here. The same with your blacks. You don't want to move your blacks so dark that those pixels start climbing up the wall on the left-hand side.

If you want to quickly reset a slider, all you need to do is double-click on the slider and it will set it back to zero. If you wanted to reset all of the sliders at one time, you can hold down the Option key or the Alt key on Windows and you'll notice down here that the Cancel button changes to Reset. But you have to be a little careful with that, because if you've made changes to any of the other panels, it will also reset all of those changes. In this image, my basic workflow would be to check the Temperature and Tint slider, and then we could change the exposure if we need to, we could add a little bit of contrast, and then I might skip down to the Whites and Blacks to make sure that I have a white point and a black point in my image, so that I make sure that I'm using the entire dynamic range.

I'll go ahead and scoot the whites up. Again, I don't want to go too far so I'm watching the histogram to make sure that these pixels don't start climbing the wall, and then I'll do the same with the blacks. Then, if I need to, I could use either the Shadows or the Highlights to maybe open up the shadows a little bit if they were getting too dark and I wasn't seeing detail in the shadows, or I could bring down the highlights if the highlights were getting too bright when I move my White slider over to the right. We also have options for Clarity.

Clarity is a great way to make your image look sharper because it adds contrast along edges in the midtones of your image. The nice thing here is that everything I do is nondestructive, so if I added a lot of clarity and then decided my image was looking too contrasty, we could go ahead and lower the contrast. We also have a Vibrance and Saturation slider, so that we could increase the vibrance or increase the saturation.

Now there's a difference between these two sliders, and I think it's best seen if we really move them all the way to the right. You'll notice that the colors really get saturated, but this is a relative slider, so they're not getting it overly saturated, at least not as overly saturated as if I take up the saturation slider to a 100%. The other way that we can see the difference between Vibrance and Saturation is by lowering the Saturation. If I go all the way to -100, you can see I've eliminated all of the color from this image.

I'll double-click to reset that, and then I'll move the Vibrance slider all the way to the left, but you can see that even at -100 with the Vibrance, because it's a relative slider, we're still going to see a little bit of color in our image. Again, to reset it, I'll just double-click right on the slider. So the Basic panel is where you would want to start, but then there are a lot of other panels that also provide great tools for adjusting your images. The second panel is going to be the Tone Curve panel.

It's going to allow us to maybe add an S curve to make more contrast if we want to, or just lighten or darken very specific areas of our image. We've got the Detail panel for adding sharpening and noise reduction. We have HSL and Grayscale for making changes to color ranges, including hue and saturation and luminosity, as well as the ability to convert to grayscale and change the way that colors get remapped into black and white. We have this Split Toning panel where we can add color in to our shadows or highlights and create cross-process affects.

We've got our Lens Corrections, where we can not only enable lens profile corrections, we can also come in and do some perspective corrections. We've got our effects, if we wanted to add grain or a post-crop vignette. We also have a Camera Calibration tab, which is a little bit beyond the scope of the fundamentals, but if you're interested in this, I would highly recommend Chris Orwig's series on Adobe Camera Raw. There is also a Preset area where we can define our own presets and quickly apply them to multiple images.

And we have the snapshot area, where you can take different snapshots at different points in time, in case you wanted to try things out but wanted to make sure that you got back to a certain adjustment that you had made to your image. Finally, we have the options along the bottom, which include the ability to simply save the image. And when I click Save, I would be presented with a dialog box where I could choose the file format and compression and other options. So this is great when you're done in Camera Raw, if there's no need to take your image to Photoshop, you could simply save out your images.

We have workflow settings right here, which will talk about another movie, that enable you to pick your color space, as well as your bit depth and the size of the image that you want to process if you were to open the image up into Photoshop, which is what this button is for. To open your image, we could cancel which would say, you know I don't like these changes, I just want to cancel and back out of here and not apply them, or we can click Done. When we choose Done, we'll return back to Bridge, where you can now see that the thumbnail of this image has been updated with those changes that we've made, and I know that not only because visually it looks different, but because Bridge provides us with a small icon here that tells me that there have been changes made to this image in Camera Raw.

Now one important note: because I'm using JPEG files as my exercise files, you should know that when I click done, I was returned back to Bridge. If you're following along using your own raw files, when you click Done, you are probably in Photoshop, in which case you would just go to the File menu and select Browse in Bridge in order to get back to Bridge and see the changes that you've made. This is actually a feature, because you could simply open Bridge, select your raw files, and then use the icon here to open in Camera Raw, in which case you wouldn't even need to have Photoshop open. You could simply make your changes and when you click Done, you could come back to Bridge.

But other than that, there really isn't a difference. I just didn't want you to be puzzled if you are using your own raw files to follow along.

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