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Spotting and cleanup

From: Photoshop CS5: Landscape Photography

Video: Spotting and cleanup

If you spend a lot of time shooting outdoors with an SLR, it's inevitable that you will, at some point, have a problem with sensor dust. Even if you never change lenses in the field, dust can still work its way into your camera and show up on your images as smudges and spots. You can tell for sure that a dust spot is a dust spot on your sensor if it appears in the same place across several images. Watch this spot right here, which looks like it could actually be a feature on the ground, but as I switch to the next image, an image which is panned, you can see now the spot is staying in the same place.

Spotting and cleanup

If you spend a lot of time shooting outdoors with an SLR, it's inevitable that you will, at some point, have a problem with sensor dust. Even if you never change lenses in the field, dust can still work its way into your camera and show up on your images as smudges and spots. You can tell for sure that a dust spot is a dust spot on your sensor if it appears in the same place across several images. Watch this spot right here, which looks like it could actually be a feature on the ground, but as I switch to the next image, an image which is panned, you can see now the spot is staying in the same place.

I have got the same problem up here, and there is another one over here. So in this case, my sensor is completely covered with dust, which isn't too big of a surprise, given that I am standing on top of the sand dune. You'll probably also find that dust spots are more visible when shooting at smaller apertures. Unfortunately, because you usually shoot landscapes with small apertures to ensure deep depth of field, this means that your landscape images will be more prone to revealing any dust problems that you might have. The good news is that Camera Raw has an easy mechanism for dealing with sensor dust.

I want you to open an image, but first, I want to show you a quick shortcut here. You can easily take a folder and drop it over here in the Favorites panel of Bridge to create a shortcut to it. So now I can just click on Exercise Files to get to a folder full of exercise files. Open up Crop1 again. This was the image that we are working with for awhile now, and you've probably already noticed that there is a bad dust spot right here, and there are couple of others hidden around here and there.

So we need to take that out. Another tip that I have learned the hard way; before you go scrubbing with your mouse on a piece of dust, pick up the window and move it around a little bit and make sure this spot of dust moves. I don't know how much of my life I have lost to trying to remove spots that were actually pieces of dust on my monitor. It's very embarrassing. Actually, I can't believe I am talking about it. The Spot Removal tool is right here. If I select it, I get a cursor that is just a Brush tool. I have two controls for it: Radius and Opacity.

Radius controls the size. Problem with the Radius slider is if I go over here and adjust the Radius, I've got to come back over here to see how big the brush is. The easier way to adjust the radius of the brush is to simply use the Left and Right Bracket keys on the keyboard; same as the Brush shortcuts in Photoshop. I want to make the brush just a little bit bigger than the spot of dust, and then I click, and that's it; the dust is gone. There's really not that much to say about the Spot Removal tool because it works really well; it's very easy to use. If you're wondering what this other circle is, this is where Photoshop is sampling from and building a patch that goes over this image.

See if I am dragging up here now, it's not quite as clean. So, if Photoshop makes a mistake in where it chooses, you can manually correct it by moving this around. So I am just going to prowl through my image here, looking for other dust spots. It's worse on this side of the sensor it looks like. Make my brush a little smaller, take out that one, that one. Again, these are nondestructive edits, because all Photoshop has to do is remember the coordinates of these different points, and it can store those in the XMP file, and that's pretty good.

I have got the image pretty clean. While it's possible to do more complex corrections with the Spot Removal brush, it's best to really use it only for spots. Sure, I could go in with it and meticulously try and paint ship rock out of here, but if those are the types of edits you want to use, you're better off working in Photoshop with a variety of different tools. Really, Spot Removal is for these kind of single-click spot jobs. Obviously, once you've found a sensor dust problem, you want to address it at the camera level before you go shooting again. You need to get your sensor clean.

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This video is part of

Image for Photoshop CS5: Landscape Photography
Photoshop CS5: Landscape Photography

59 video lessons · 22406 viewers

Ben Long
Author

 
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  1. 3m 14s
    1. Welcome
      1m 44s
    2. Using the exercise files
      1m 30s
  2. 46m 35s
    1. Defining landscape photography
      2m 23s
    2. Considering cameras and gear
      10m 41s
    3. Shooting and composition tips
      6m 39s
    4. Why you should shoot raw instead of JPEG
      4m 25s
    5. Making selects
      10m 42s
    6. Understanding the histogram
      6m 53s
    7. A little color theory
      4m 52s
  3. 1h 14m
    1. Opening an image
      4m 42s
    2. Cropping and straightening
      9m 56s
    3. Nondestructive editing
      6m 23s
    4. Spotting and cleanup
      3m 53s
    5. Cleaning the camera sensor
      11m 17s
    6. Lens correction
      6m 26s
    7. Correcting overexposed highlights
      7m 29s
    8. Basic tonal correction
      5m 45s
    9. Correcting blacks
      11m 54s
    10. Correcting white balance
      6m 35s
  4. 21m 34s
    1. Performing localized edits with the Gradient Filter tool
      7m 24s
    2. Performing localized edits with the Adjustment brush
      7m 54s
    3. Controlling brush and gradient edits
      6m 16s
  5. 16m 34s
    1. Working with noise reduction
      5m 33s
    2. Clarity and sharpening
      5m 23s
    3. Exiting Camera Raw
      5m 38s
  6. 58m 5s
    1. Retouching
      8m 23s
    2. Using Levels adjustment layers
      10m 59s
    3. Saving images with adjustment layers
      4m 18s
    4. Advanced Levels adjustment layers
      9m 36s
    5. Guiding the viewer's eye with Levels
      8m 48s
    6. Using gradient masks for multiple adjustments
      5m 32s
    7. Correcting color in JPEG images
      3m 15s
    8. Adding a vignette
      3m 25s
    9. Knowing when edits have gone too far
      3m 49s
  7. 33m 24s
    1. Preparing to stitch
      5m 59s
    2. Stitching
      7m 39s
    3. Panoramic touchup
      7m 17s
    4. Shooting a panorama
      4m 58s
    5. Stitching a panorama
      7m 31s
  8. 27m 18s
    1. Shooting an HDR Image
      7m 53s
    2. Merging with HDR Pro
      11m 52s
    3. Adjusting and retouching
      7m 33s
  9. 24m 4s
    1. Why use black and white for images?
      2m 26s
    2. Black-and-white conversion
      7m 13s
    3. Correcting tone in black-and-white images
      7m 38s
    4. Adding highlights to black-and-white images
      6m 47s
  10. 49m 32s
    1. Painting light and shadow pt. 1
      11m 22s
    2. Painting light and shadow pt. 2
      12m 42s
    3. Painting light and shadow pt. 3
      9m 19s
    4. HDR + LDR
      5m 7s
    5. Reviewing sample images for inspiration
      11m 2s
  11. 48m 2s
    1. Sizing
      9m 8s
    2. Enlarging and reducing
      5m 3s
    3. Saving
      1m 24s
    4. Sharpening
      8m 23s
    5. Outputting an electronic file
      9m 4s
    6. Making a web gallery
      4m 17s
    7. Printing
      10m 43s
  12. 20s
    1. Goodbye
      20s

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