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Since the beginning of the photographic art form, photographers have been searching for clearer and sharper images. Now, you don't have to settle for what was captured in camera; you can perfect your photos in post-production. In this course, Chris Orwig tackles sharpening in three programs: Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, and Photoshop. They all have their strengths, so he shows you how to get the best results from specific sharpening challenges with each one. Chris shows you how to reduce noise and sharpen with sliders and make selective adjustments to certain areas of raw images. In Photoshop, he uses powerful filters like Unsharp Mask and Smart Sharpen to sharpen larger areas of pictures, and masking to paint in sharpening. Last, he shares two advanced techniques, one using high pass sharpening and another that limits sharpening to the edges of your images.
In this movie we will continue our conversation which began in the previous movie, where we focused in on two main topics. And those topics are Workflow and Output Sharpening. First, a little bit of review of what we talked about in the previous movie. There, we discussed that we can click on the Workflow Options button here, and in this dialogue we can do things like resize the photograph or apply some Output Sharpening. The challenge with working with the Output Sharpening dialogue is that when we select this option, there isn't any visual difference in the photograph.
This sharpening will be applied when we open our image and send this over to another application like Photoshop. For example, if we click OK here and then go down to the base of the Camera Raw dialogue, we'll find the Open Image button. If we were to click on that button it would apply all of our Camera Raw settings, all of those sliders and adjustments that we've made, and in addition it would also apply some output sharpening so that the photograph will look that much better when it was sent over to Photoshop.
On the other hand, let's say we want to begin our workflow in Camera Raw, and end here as well. We don't want to go to Photoshop at all. We simply want to save out maybe a JPEG file which we can send to a client, so they can then print the image. Well when our workflow is all about Camera Raw, what we'll do then is click on the Save Image button. When you click on Save Image, it will open up the SaveOptions dialog. This dialog has a lot of controls. We'll be looking of these controls starting off up here at the top.
At the top we can choose a destination for where we want to save the file. In this case we'll save it in the same folder and same location. We can decide if we want to rename the file. Again here we'll just leave it as is. And then next we can choose from different file formats. And here we can select these different file formats. And let's choose the option of JPEG. I'm going to select to only include the copyright information and my metadata, and then for the quality I'm typing in 12. That is the maximum, or the highest, quality setting because remember this image is going to be printed so I want to have a really high quality JPEG file.
For the Color Space leave this on Adobe RGB 1998. And then down to the bottom we have some important values here. By default, these values may be unchecked in your dialogue. You want to make sure that you turn the option on to resize the image. Again, I like to use Long Side. And we can define what we want to choose here. Do we want a four by six image or maybe, as we talked about before, we want an image which is about six and a half by ten. What I recommend you do is that you match the size that you have here with your workflow options.
In that way you're consistent, because in your workflow options you resized it so you could evaluate the details. And here we want to match those so that we're being consistent with our overall workflow. Same thing with resolution, let's enter in the value which we entered in previously, which was 240. Then when it comes to output sharpening, we want to select how we want to output this. Remember we're going to use matte paper for the printing and then for the amount, we'll go ahead and select low, standard or high. And in all of my testing I found that the majority of the time standard works best.
So that's the one I use almost all the time. Last but not least, in order to save this file out, we simply click on the Save button. We'll see the progress down below. What that will do is it will them apply all of our Camera Raw settings and, in addition it will apply that last bit of output sharpening which will make sure our photographs look their best.
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