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In this movie, I'll introduce you to the shadow's highlight options. Which are designed to mitigate the clippings of your halo's. And also show you how they compare to that opacity trick, that I showed you a couple movies ago. I'm looking at an image from the Fotolia image library about which you can learn more and get special deals at fotolia.com/deke. The first thing I'm going to do is convert this image to an independent layer by double clicking in the background. And I'll just go ahead and call this layer Twins and click Okay. And then, I'll right click inside the Image window and choose, convert to smart object, so we can apply smart sharpen as a smart filter.
And I'll go ahead and duplicate this layer as well, by pressing Ctrl+J or Cmd+J on the Mac. That way, we can compare these two effects. I'll turn off the Top layers, select the Bottom one. Then go up to the Filter menu and by virtue of the fact that Smart Sharpen was the last filter you applied, you can just choose it from the top of the list here. Or you can press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on a Mac and that'll go ahead and bring up that Smart Sharpen dialog box. I'm going to scroll over to about this point. So I can keep an eye on this guy's eye, because that is one of the best ways to gauge sharpening, inside of a portrait shot, and now I'm going to dial in a different amount value of 300%.
So I'm going to take it down a little bit. This image doesn't really contain noise. So I'm going to take the reduced noise value down to 0%. A radius value of three pixels is going to work out nicely, and I've got remove set. To lens work. Now I'll twirl open shadows highlights and I'll go ahead and zoom in too a little bit so that I can see the image at 200% and it's possible that we have a little bit of clipping going on inside of this image. And the whole purpose of these options is to reduce that clipping.
And so what you do is you increase the fade amount, for the shadows for example, in order to fade the dark edges. And notice if I take that value all the way up to 100% That we're getting rid of a lot of sharpness inside the image. So, just for the sake of comparison, keep an eye on the eye. I'll take the fade amount value back down to zero and you can see that we regain a lot of sharpness as a result. So, you probably when working with shadows you. To not to take this value too high. I rarely crank it above 25%.
Depending on the image, you can typically go with a higher fade amount value for the highlights. And once again, keep an eye on the image. I'm going to take this value up to 100. And you can see the highlights, drop down ever so slightly. For the sake of comparison, I'll take the value back down to zero, and you can see that we're lighting up some highlights along this edge of the eyelash right there, and then if I take it higher we end up mitigating those highlights quite a bit. Any way I'm going to take the value to 50%. Next we've got tonal width, and radius.
Tonal width controls what are highlights, and what are shadows. So if I crank the total width of the shadows all the way up to 100%, I'm going to include more colors in my equation. Whereas, if I take it down to 0% I'm going to leave out a lot of the shadows. Typically, you want to leave that value set to 50%, but you can take it up if you want to in order to take more wind out of the sharpening effect. And then, radius makes almost no difference at all. Keep the very steady eye on the image here and I'll crank the radius value from one to 100 pixels and we are not seeing anything and the reason for that is because this radius works inside of our existing radius.
So we only have three pixels of sharpening the work within the first place, that means that changing the radius value for the shadows and highlights Isn't going to make any sort of useful contribution. But combined with a high-radius value, for example, I'll go ahead and take the radius all the way to 64 pixels, so that we're cranking the heck out of it. And now, notice, if I take the highlights radius value up to its maximum. We're going to reveal just a little bit of brightness did you see it happen so notice that the interior of the eye is pretty bright at this point if I take the radius value down its going to dim down just ever so slightly.
So what I'm really saying is you can safely ignore these radius values if you want to. Anyway, I'm going to take this radius value down to three pixels. That is the main radius value, the one that actually makes a meaningful contribution, and you can see otherwise I've got the shadows fade set to 25% and the highlights fade set to 50%. Now I'll click OK. Now, let's see how that combines to the much simpler solution of reducing the opacity value. I'll go ahead and click on the Top Twins layer and turn it on as well. And I'll press Control+F or Command+F on a Mac to once again bring up the smart sharpen dialogue.
I'll zoom in to 200% so we can better see what we're doing here. At least where this eye is concerned. And I'm going to crank the amount value up to 500% this time around because we need to have a higher amount value. Because after all, we're going to back off the opacity. And then I'll take these values here, both of the Fade amount values down to 0%. And I will twirl this guy close. And here's one of the dangerous things about these options. They can remain intact, they can remain in force from one image to the next. Even if you hide the options.
So that means that you've got options that work that you don't even know about. Which is why I personally steer clear of these items. But I want you to able to make your own determination. Now, I'll click okay in order to accept this effect. And now, I'm going to double click on the little slider icon in order to bring up my blending options. And even though we're not really seeing a lot of color artifacting inside of this image. (INAUDIBLE) . It is there. There is some at work. You can see that we've got some green, some purples in addition to the blues around his eye.
And I can get rid of those by changing the blend mode to luminosity, so once again you should always do that when working with a Smart Sharpen filter. And now reduce the opacity to, let's say, to something like 50% this time around. Even though the math doesn't quite work out. We're going to get a more or less equivalent effect. And now I'll click okay in order to except that change. And also go ahead and change the blend mode of the bottom effect. By double clicking on it's slider. And then selecting the final mode in the list. Which is Luminosity. And then click OK.
All right, let's go and zoom in so that we can test which way works better. Right now, we're seeing the effect of combining an amount value of 500% with an opacity value of 50%. So I"ll go ahead and enter that for the layer name there. And now, if I turn this layer off, this is the image. Subject to an amount value of 300% along with some shadow highlight modifications. And they're not much different as you can see, so here's the easier approach of reducing the opacity value and here's the much tougher approach.
Of working with the shadows and highlights values. And so, what we're getting with shadows highlights is less sharpening out of the effect, as you can see here. So it's a much less tactile effect. Especially when we're zoomed in like this, than we're getting with a higher amount value combined with a low opacity value. But quantitatively, I would not say these two effects are different enough in order to put up with the difficulty of those shadows highlights values. So again, if you're trying to avoid clipping where your halos are concerned, I prefer that opacity trick.
But you can also avail yourself of the shadows highlights values, which we're seeing right now by the way. That are included along with the Smart Sharpen filter.
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