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In this course, professional photo restorer Janine Smith describes how to use Photoshop to restore, retouch, and enhance old or damaged photos. It covers evaluating scanned images for imperfections, using the Clone Stamp tool and other Photoshop tools, and addressing common problems and their fixes, starting with the basics (fading, spots, and paper texture) and continuing with more complex challenges (rips, adhesive tape, ink marks, mold, and more). Also included are methods for fixing exposure problems and colorcast as well as advanced techniques in photo restoration, such as replacing backgrounds and recreating missing facial features and body parts. The course includes a project that takes an image from damaged start to restored finish.
Eyeglass glare is a little different, since glasses are transparent and you need to reduce the glare while keeping the transparent quality. Begin by making a new blank layer and then go to the toolbar and select the Clone Stamp tool. Zoom in the area you'd like to repair, either using your Ctrl+Plus or Command+Plus or by using the Zoom tool. Go back and get our Clone Stamp and then hold down your Alt or Option key to select areas.
You can make your brush bigger or smaller using your open and close bracket keys. You want to make it big enough so it's not just taking itty-bitty pieces, but big enough to get a good area. If it's too small, you could be doing this forever. Grab areas from both sides and meet in the middle. Try to keep them fairly close in tone. Don't forget your eyeglass frame. If it's not completely smooth, we're going to be smoothing it out a little bit, so don't worry terribly.
Go over to your other side and do the same: whittle away at both ends and meet in the middle. If you need to borrow from another area-- even this side, if tones are close--you can try that if you don't have a good area to choose from. You just want some close tones. Like I said, we're going to be softening it, so they don't have to be at an exact match. Don't forget your frame again. And when you have a pretty good match, you go over to your Blur tool.
Let's just soften the work we did just a bit, soften the lines. Now we are going to lower the Opacity, start at about 75% or so and see how that looks. Now with eyeglasses, you don't want to make the glare look completely flat, because it is a reflective surface and you expect that. What you're trying to do is if we look at the before, how bright it is, that pulls your eye toward the brightness.
What we're trying to do is just to make that brightness less, so it pulls our eye towards the wearer's eye, and this does a pretty adequate job of that. Let's go back out and again look at the before and after, and that's a pretty good job right there. Glare can happen whenever a flash is used in front of a reflective surface, but there are easy ways to reduce the appearance of the glare in your photographs without anyone even knowing it was there to begin with.
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