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Introducing Bevel and Emboss

From: Photoshop CC One-on-One: Intermediate

Video: Introducing Bevel and Emboss

In this movie, I'll introduce you to what is by far the most elaborate and complicated of the layer effects inside Photoshop, and that's Bevel and Emboss. And I use the Bevel and Emboss effect to create this kind of lid that's resting behind the letters. But I think it's best understood in the context of creating a frame. So I'm going to switch to this image. And I'm going to click on this Frame layer to select it. And then I'll press the A key to get my Black Arrow tool. And I'll click on the rectangle, in my case I have to click on it a couple of times in order to select it.

Introducing Bevel and Emboss

In this movie, I'll introduce you to what is by far the most elaborate and complicated of the layer effects inside Photoshop, and that's Bevel and Emboss. And I use the Bevel and Emboss effect to create this kind of lid that's resting behind the letters. But I think it's best understood in the context of creating a frame. So I'm going to switch to this image. And I'm going to click on this Frame layer to select it. And then I'll press the A key to get my Black Arrow tool. And I'll click on the rectangle, in my case I have to click on it a couple of times in order to select it.

Now, I want to turn the rectangle into a hole. So we're filling the area outside the rectangle which will serve as the frame that we're lining. And so I'll go up to the Path operations icon, click on it and then choose Subtract Front Shape. And that will turn that shape into a hole. I could've also just tapped the minus key by the way. All right, now I'll click on the filled area to deselect the rectangle, and I'll press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on the Mac to hide the outline. And now I'll go to the Blend Mode popup menu, on the upper left corner of the Layers panel.

And change it from Normal to the first of the contrast modes, which is Overlay. And that'll give us a little bit of heat inside of that frame. And next, I'll press the Esc key so the blend mode is no longer active here on the PC. That's not necessary on a Mac. And I'll press Shift+5 in order to reduce the fill opacity to 50%. Now that makes the layer nearly invisible. However, it's going to serve as a perfect jumping off point for Bevel and Emboss. So drop down to the FX icon and choose the Bevel and Emboss command which is at the top of the stack.

And just so we can see what we're doing here, I'm going to move this dialog box quite a bit over. And I'm going to increase the size value to 60 pixels, let's say. And I'm going to reduce the altitutde value. We'll come back to what this means in a moment. To 30 degrees. And I'm going to increase the depth value to let's say 300%. And depth by the way controls the steepness of the edges. So at this point, we've got an angle value of 135 degrees. That means the light source is up and to the left.

And as a result, it's casting shadows in the upper left corner, because after all this edge is sloping downward. And then this edge is sloping downward as well. The entire interior of the frame is. And as a result, the lower right corner, is catching the light. Now I'm going to adjust my highlights and shadows. Which in fact of course the shadows and highlights that we're seeing inside the image. I'm going to start with the Shadow mode. I want to give it just a little bit of color. So I'm going to click on that black swatch. I'm going to change the Hue value to the usual 35 degrees. And I'll set both saturation and brightness to 15%.

So this time, I'm going with a very low saturation dark color. And I'm going to leave the opacity set to 75%, but I do want to amp up the effect. So I'm going to switch the blend mode from Multiply to the most radical of the darkening modes, which is Linear Burn. Then, I'm going to do something similar with the highlight. I'll click on the white color swatch here, I'll change the hue value to 35 degrees. I'll change the saturation to 35% and I'll leave the brightness set to 100%, then I'll click OK. And I'm going to change the blend mode from Screen, to the most radical of the brightening modes, which is Linear Dodge.

And we end up with this hot effect down here. Now, let's take a look at Style. And I know I'm kind of jumping around here, but I want to work in an order that makes some sense. By default, the shadows and highlights are set on the inside of the frame. However, if you wanted to move them outside the frame, to the interior of that unfilled rectangle. Then you would choose outer bevel. And notice now, we're casting the highlights and shadows into the background image. If you want to kind of split the difference, you can choose Emboss.

And that's going to go ahead and center the shadows and highlights on that frame boundary. If you want to create a kind of carved effect where the frame goes in and then the interior comes back out, then you go with pillow emboss. And you can see now we've got a shadow immediately followed by a highlight and another shadow followed by a highlight down right. And as a result it appears as if the rectangle's kind of carved into the background. This final options Stroke Emboss requires a stroke, so we have to turn on the Stroke.

Make it pretty thick and then that could set the Emboss effect inside of it. However for this effect what we want is Inner bevel, so I'll go ahead and switch it back. By default, this technique option is set to Smooth, meaning that we have soft highlights and shadows. If you want something a little more emphatic, then you can switch to one of the chisel options here. We're not going to see a difference between them, because in order to see a difference between Chisel hard and Chisel soft. You need a curving edge, and in our case we've got straight sides.

But my recommendation is, either go with Smooth or go all the way, and select Chisel Hard. And notice that does give us some very abrupt transitions as well as these kind of triangle patterns here in the corners. If you want to soften things up, you've got this Soften option right there. So go ahead and click inside that value. And notice, I'll press the Up Arrow key a few times, and as I do, you can see these triangles blur away. And I finally for what it's worth, arrived at a soften value of 10 pixels.

Now let's check out Altitude. You know how Angle works? That's the direction of the light source. Altitude is the height of, let's imagine, the sun in the sky. You can change it by dragging this guy inward in order to raise the sun or outward in order to send it down to the horizon. And you can also drag this guy around in order to change the angle as well. I'm going to go ahead and reset that angle value to 135 degrees and now I've got a very low sun as you can see here, five degrees in the sky.

And that means that we have a very dark shadow indeed, because it isn't catching much light. And we have a pretty bright highlight down right because it's really catching the light. Now if I were to click in this value, and press Shift+Up arrow in order to raise the sun let's say, as high as 45 degrees here. At this point it's about something like 10:30 A.M. And the sun's starting to rise pretty high in the sky, and as a result, we're starting to lose some of the light on the bright edge. And we'll start filling in the dark edge shortly.

So, I'm going to take this value to 50 degrees which is the default setting and you can see we're starting to lose that bright edge. And now I'll press the Up arrow key, because it's between 50 and 60 degrees that you really see things changing. And notice we're losing the light like crazy on the down right edge, and we're breathing some light into the upper left edge as well. And a lot of the reason that we're losing so much light down right is because we have such a high depth setting. If I were to take that setting down, so I'm pressing Shift+Down arrow.

To reduce this value to about 150 percent works well for this effect. Then you can see that that less steep edge is catching more light. Anyway, you can take the altitude value all the way up to 90 degrees at which point it's high noon, light's coming straight down. It's going to brighten the heck out of the surface of this layer if we could see it. And we have nothing but shadows left because there's nothing really expect for the surface catching the light. Anyway, I went ahead and stuck with the default altitude of 50%.

And one more item that I haven't mentioned is Direction. Notice that right now, the surface is up, and the edges are going down. If you want it to be the other way around, you want the surface of the frame to be treated as if it's down and then the edges are going up. Then you switch to the Down option. I, of course want Up to remain selected, and then finally, I took the size value down. I just wanted it this high for demonstrational purposes. I ended up taking the size value down to 10 pixels. To create this slightly sloping frame effect that you see here.

And now I'll move the dialog box over and click the OK button in order to accept that effect. And that folks, is how you create a raised framing effect using Bevel and Emboss here inside Photoshop.

Show transcript

This video is part of

Image for Photoshop CC One-on-One: Intermediate
Photoshop CC One-on-One: Intermediate

119 video lessons · 9392 viewers

Deke McClelland
Author

 
Expand all | Collapse all
  1. 2m 4s
    1. Welcome to One-on-One
      2m 4s
  2. 29m 46s
    1. The best of Photoshop automation
      35s
    2. Introducing the Patch tool
      3m 43s
    3. Using Content-Aware Patch
      5m 42s
    4. Retouching with Content-Aware Patch
      2m 5s
    5. Using the Content-Aware Move tool
      3m 9s
    6. Using Content-Aware Extend
      2m 4s
    7. The Content-Aware Scale command
      6m 35s
    8. Scaling in multiple passes
      2m 22s
    9. Protecting skin tones
      3m 31s
  3. 32m 55s
    1. Editing the histogram
      1m 50s
    2. The new automatic Levels adjustment
      4m 33s
    3. Customizing a Levels adjustment
      4m 53s
    4. Understanding the Gamma value
      2m 7s
    5. Opening up the shadows
      2m 48s
    6. Previewing clipped pixels
      3m 40s
    7. Retouching with Output Levels
      4m 25s
    8. Making channel-by-channel adjustments
      2m 19s
    9. Faking a gray card in post
      2m 51s
    10. Assigning shortcuts to adjustment layers
      3m 29s
  4. 57m 43s
    1. How sharpening works
      1m 38s
    2. Introducing the Smart Sharpen filter
      6m 56s
    3. Understanding the Radius value
      5m 20s
    4. Gauging the best sharpening settings
      5m 45s
    5. Addressing color artifacts and clipping
      5m 49s
    6. The Remove and Reduce Noise options
      4m 22s
    7. The Shadows/Highlights options
      7m 36s
    8. Correcting for camera shake
      6m 47s
    9. Sharpening with the Emboss filter
      5m 45s
    10. Sharpening with the High Pass filter
      4m 44s
    11. Painting in sharpness
      3m 1s
  5. 1h 9m
    1. Vector-based type
      1m 35s
    2. Creating and editing point text
      5m 58s
    3. Font and type style tricks
      7m 10s
    4. Type size and color tricks
      6m 42s
    5. Kerning and tracking characters
      8m 7s
    6. Creating and editing area text
      3m 50s
    7. Selecting and formatting paragraphs
      6m 36s
    8. Setting text inside a custom path
      5m 32s
    9. Creating text along a path
      6m 12s
    10. Adjusting baseline shift
      4m 45s
    11. Creating and stylizing a logo
      6m 49s
    12. Masking text into image elements
      6m 14s
  6. 57m 13s
    1. The other vector-based layer
      1m 39s
    2. Dotted borders and corner roundness
      8m 14s
    3. Drawing and aligning custom shapes
      3m 55s
    4. Creating your own repeatable custom shape
      5m 43s
    5. Selecting paths and isolating layers
      4m 11s
    6. Combining simple shapes to make complex ones
      5m 59s
    7. Cropping, adjusting, and merging shapes
      5m 50s
    8. Creating a soft, synthetic sparkle
      6m 22s
    9. Saving a resolution-independent PDF file
      6m 42s
    10. Turning a small image into a huge one
      8m 38s
  7. 1h 14m
    1. Depth, contour, and texture
      1m 28s
    2. Imparting depth with a layer effect
      9m 9s
    3. The power of the drop shadow
      7m 37s
    4. Modifying a layer and its effects
      6m 21s
    5. Saving custom default settings
      4m 12s
    6. Creating a custom contour
      8m 5s
    7. Introducing Bevel and Emboss
      8m 8s
    8. Multiple effects and multiple layers
      7m 45s
    9. Global Light and rasterizing effects
      8m 5s
    10. Gloss and surface contour
      6m 4s
    11. Adding texture to Bevel and Emboss
      7m 21s
  8. 34m 48s
    1. Styles store settings
      1m 38s
    2. Creating and applying a paragraph style
      3m 41s
    3. Redefining a style and styling a word
      5m 38s
    4. Creating and styling a placeholder style
      5m 43s
    5. Applying and creating layer styles
      5m 45s
    6. Loading and customizing layer styles
      5m 42s
    7. Merging and saving layer styles
      6m 41s
  9. 56m 48s
    1. Meet the transformations
      1m 55s
    2. Transformations and Smart Objects
      5m 46s
    3. Adjusting the interpolation setting
      5m 10s
    4. Rotating a layer with Free Transform
      5m 22s
    5. Scale, duplicate, and repeat
      4m 30s
    6. Creating a synthetic star field
      5m 20s
    7. Warping a logo with Arc and Flag
      5m 34s
    8. Distort, perspective, and skew
      4m 15s
    9. Using transformations to draw and correct
      7m 0s
    10. Bolstering text with layer effects
      5m 43s
    11. Adding highlights with Lens Flare
      6m 13s
  10. 43m 36s
    1. Removing the weight that the camera adds
      1m 7s
    2. The Warp and Reconstruct tools
      6m 44s
    3. Brush size, hardness, and opacity
      4m 29s
    4. The Pucker, Bloat, Push, and Twirl tools
      7m 12s
    5. Saving and reapplying Liquify settings
      4m 9s
    6. Lifting and slimming details
      9m 42s
    7. Warping legs, arms, and fabric
      5m 33s
    8. Improving a model's posture
      4m 40s
  11. 58m 46s
    1. Shoot in color, convert to black and white
      1m 55s
    2. Three ways to grayscale
      5m 36s
    3. Mixing a custom black-and-white image
      7m 31s
    4. Simulating an infrared photograph
      6m 39s
    5. Creating a sienna-infused sepia tone
      5m 38s
    6. Creating a hyper-saturated image
      5m 26s
    7. Introducing the Black & White command
      3m 16s
    8. Customizing the Black & White settings
      4m 50s
    9. Black & White meets the Channel Mixer
      7m 29s
    10. Infusing an image with tint and color
      5m 9s
    11. Grayscale and Split Tone in Camera Raw
      5m 17s
  12. 41m 34s
    1. The many ways to print
      1m 41s
    2. Using the test document
      3m 18s
    3. Print, position, and size
      5m 57s
    4. Description and printing marks
      3m 3s
    5. Establishing a bleed
      3m 44s
    6. Getting reliable color
      5m 54s
    7. Special printing options
      5m 1s
    8. Previewing an image at print size
      4m 16s
    9. Creating contact sheets
      4m 49s
    10. Creating a multipage PDF
      3m 51s
  13. 31m 9s
    1. Making Internet imagery
      1m 6s
    2. Introducing Save for Web
      4m 39s
    3. Creating the perfect JPEG image
      5m 14s
    4. Creating a high-contrast GIF image
      6m 23s
    5. The two varieties of PNG
      3m 57s
    6. Downsampling for the web
      5m 59s
    7. Adding copyright and contact info
      3m 51s
  14. 1m 3s
    1. Until next time
      1m 3s

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