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I have opened that file that I saved at the end of the previous exercise. It's called CR Smart Object.psd. And I've got a Camera Raw Smart Object sitting right here, this 11mile Canyon image. Now I can apply adjustment layers to a Smart Object. So I could heap all sorts of adjustment layers on top of this image if I wanted to change the colors or correct the luminance level, or what have you. But even better to go right back to the source to that 10 bit per channel image or that 12 bit per channel image, what have you, and be able to draw forth the colors from the high bit depth luminance space. And that's what we're going to do, as simply as going over to this thumbnail and double clicking on it, there inside the Layers palette.
And that goes ahead and recalls the Camera Raw interface and now I could say, you know what? This is way too yellow. I want to bring up the blues inside of this image and particularly the blue sky up here. So I'm going to click inside the Temperature value right there and I'm going to take this value down to 5250. So I took it down 1000 degrees and then I'll tab to the Tint value and I'll take that up to +15 to infuse the image with some magenta, pink what have you. Then the Exposure value is fine the way it is, I think. But the Brightness value is too high.
I don't need the Brightness value of 60; I need a Brightness value of more like 40. That's nice. And then I'll increase the heck out of that Contrast value. Let's take up to +50. And why in the world was I relying entirely on Saturation? That's just nutty. I'll take that down to +20 and then I'll take Vibrance up to +40. Now, we're talking. And then finally I want to sync the sky a little bit. I love syncing that sky. So I'm going to go to my HSL/Grayscale options right there, switch over to Luminance panel and then I'll click inside the Blues value and I'll take Blues down to -30, nice. Now we're talking and now I can click OK.
There is no option to Open Image or any of that jazz, there is just the OK button at this point. So you click OK and you are returned to Photoshop. So the modifications are applied here inside Photoshop. Now does that affect the original Camera Raw image? It most certainly does not. So if we go back over to the Bridge here, you'll see that 11mile Canyon.dng does have some settings applied to it, so it is different than it was the first time we saw at the outset of the previous exercise. However, it is still yellow as compared with bluish, the way it is now back inside Photoshop. So we have made some significant changes and we've gone ahead and saved our previous settings along with the original DNG file. So all is happiness, indeed.
All right, so anyway, I'm going to back over to Photoshop and there we have our splendid beautiful image and we can do a before and after too. This is before, if you just press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on Mac and this is after. Nice! Now at this point you might think, well yeah, but you could kind of do that from the Bridge anyway, right. I mean you got the image in the Bridge, you can open up in Camera Raw, make your modifications and just click Done. And then you have your image modified. Or you could make these kinds of changes in Lightroom too. So what's the big deal about having a Camera Raw Smart Object in Photoshop, why would you need such a thing? Well, because you're assembling the Camera Raw image into a layered composition presumably, so you need the power of Photoshop at your disposal. And just by way of a demonstration, of what you might do with a Camera Raw Smart Object, I offer the following exercise. Please join me.
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