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Correcting tone in fisheye images

From: Foundations of Photography: Specialty Lenses

Video: Correcting tone in fisheye images

If you choose to shoot with the fisheye or ultra-wide angle lens, it's because you're going for a particular look, and so you probably expect a certain amount of distortion and strange final results. This is about as strange as you're going to get with the fisheye. This is the Canon 8215-mm fisheye used on a 5D. So it's a full-frame camera, and the fisheye can't cover the whole sensor, so I've got all this black around here. So it's not real practical on this camera. This lens makes a little more sense on a cropped sensor camera. Still, I really like the extreme fisheye distortion that you get here.

Correcting tone in fisheye images

If you choose to shoot with the fisheye or ultra-wide angle lens, it's because you're going for a particular look, and so you probably expect a certain amount of distortion and strange final results. This is about as strange as you're going to get with the fisheye. This is the Canon 8215-mm fisheye used on a 5D. So it's a full-frame camera, and the fisheye can't cover the whole sensor, so I've got all this black around here. So it's not real practical on this camera. This lens makes a little more sense on a cropped sensor camera. Still, I really like the extreme fisheye distortion that you get here.

That said, it is a little bit annoying that these lines up here that are so plainly supposed to be straight or curved, it makes the effect of the lens a little too obvious. Granted, the stringy arms are going to be obvious no matter what, but still, is it possible to correct some of the distortion and still have a nice wide-angle stylized look? Yes it is, and in Photoshop CS6, it's very easy to do using the Adaptive Wide Angle correction feature. So this is just a filter that I apply that is going to let me correct the distortion in specific parts of an image.

Now, I'm still going to need a heavy crop, but here's how it works. You can see that it has identified my lens model so it knows that it's some fisheye correction that needs to happen. It knows a lot of specifics about exactly how this lens distorts. So what I need to do is tell it where there is a line in the image that is supposed to be straight. So I'm taking this Straight Line tool. I can also do this with a Polygon, but I'm just going to do a straight line, I get the same results. And I click on this in, and as I drag, it's creating a line that automatically fits perfectly the curvature of this line because it knows from the profile of the lens exactly how much distortion there is.

So I can tell it, "Okay, you know that, that line right there is supposed to be straight. I want you to straighten it." When I let go, it warps that part of the image to straighten up that particular bit. So now I can work through here and just straighten out whatever parts of the image I find are distractingly distorted. So I'm looking for really strong curved lines, and I'm just straightening those out. Now, as I do, I am making my image a little more difficult to crop. I'm forcing myself to go to a tighter crop.

So I want to pick this images or these lines a little bit carefully. But what's cool is now, when I'm done--I'm going to hit Okay--I end up with an image where big curved lines aren't so obvious. This line of wall to the ceiling that we would all recognize as being a straight line is now a straight line, but I still get all of the fun fisheye distortion that I had before. Now, I just need to crop the image down to a rectangle. This is not only something you'll use with fisheye lenses. This is also--oops, my Crop tool is all messed up here.

Let me just go unconstrained. This is something you will use for ultra wide angle lenses as well as fisheye lenses. It's an easy way to take out a level of distortion that you may not want. It's an easy way to make super distorted lines not so obvious. It keeps them from upstaging your image. Now, that said, there's no way that anyone's not going to look at this and see it as a heavily distorted very stylized image. But still, I like that he is now this real rubbery arm guy standing in what appears to be a normal room.

So, again, this is the Adaptive Wide Angle filter in Photoshop CS6. If you're using an earlier version of Photoshop, you won't have this. It's a very good reason to upgrade if you regularly shoot with fisheyes and wide-angle lenses.

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This video is part of

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Foundations of Photography: Specialty Lenses

50 video lessons · 18268 viewers

Ben Long
Author

 
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  1. 4m 10s
    1. Welcome
      1m 46s
    2. Roadmap of the course
      2m 24s
  2. 3m 53s
    1. Words about focal length
      2m 6s
    2. Understanding camera position
      1m 47s
  3. 39m 19s
    1. What filters are for
      2m 37s
    2. Shopping for filters
      3m 55s
    3. Understanding neutral density filters
      4m 53s
    4. Applying neutral density filters
      3m 55s
    5. Polarizing filters
      3m 4s
    6. Some shooting tips for working with a polarizing filter
      2m 32s
    7. Using infrared filters
      9m 15s
    8. Processing the infrared image
      6m 7s
    9. Handling stuck filters
      3m 1s
  4. 38m 37s
    1. Working with ultra-wide lenses
      7m 19s
    2. Using a wide-angle lens
      4m 43s
    3. Understanding fisheye lenses
      4m 2s
    4. Working with fisheye lenses
      3m 59s
    5. Understanding fisheye exposure
      3m 3s
    6. Taking fisheye further
      4m 16s
    7. Processing fisheye and wide-angle images
      7m 38s
    8. Correcting tone in fisheye images
      3m 37s
  5. 35m 37s
    1. Understanding super telephoto
      6m 21s
    2. Shooting distant subjects
      8m 26s
    3. Compressing the sense of depth
      7m 53s
    4. Working with shallow depth of field
      5m 35s
    5. Working with teleconverters
      2m 38s
    6. Editing telephoto images
      4m 44s
  6. 16m 47s
    1. Understanding macro basics
      2m 47s
    2. Shooting close
      4m 52s
    3. Shooting macro
      5m 20s
    4. Working with a point-and-shoot for macro
      1m 58s
    5. Using a two-lens strategy
      1m 50s
  7. 16m 39s
    1. Understanding tilt shift
      3m 37s
    2. Correcting perspective
      4m 29s
    3. Creating the toy effect
      4m 41s
    4. Deepening depth of field
      3m 52s
  8. 32m 39s
    1. Working with specialty lenses
      2m 43s
    2. Using the Lensbaby
      9m 13s
    3. Working with the Lensbaby Macro attachment
      3m 50s
    4. Shooting with a Holga attachment
      3m 4s
    5. Using an alternative mount lens
      2m 18s
    6. Using super-fast lenses
      1m 47s
    7. Correcting Lensbaby images
      9m 44s
  9. 39m 48s
    1. Correcting perspective
      10m 41s
    2. Creating the toy effect
      6m 31s
    3. Getting the lo-fi Holga look
      11m 17s
    4. Reproducing the effect of a Lensbaby
      8m 17s
    5. Cropping and enlarging images
      3m 2s
  10. 2m 47s
    1. Choosing whether to borrow or buy
      2m 0s
    2. Goodbye
      47s

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