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In this movie, I'll show you how to use Smart Sharpen to compensate for camera shake. And then in the next movie, I'll show you an alternate technique that relies on the filter called emboss. Now, camera shake is what happens when you as the photographer, move the camera during a long exposure. And this image is a perfect example. It's a handheld shot captured under low light and I just had the camera set to auto. So, as a result the ISO's cranked up to 12,800, which means we have an extremely noisy image.
And the shutter was open for a quarter second. Which is more than enough time to capture some motion in the shot. But I like this image so much. The colors look great. The model looks awesome. But I wanted to do my best to bring out the detail. So, the first step is to double click on the background here inside the Layers panel. And I'll go ahead and call this new layer, colleen. And then I'll right click inside the image with the rectangular Marquee tool and choose Convert to Smart Object. Then I'll go up to the Filter menu and I'll choose Sharpen and I'll choose Smart Sharpen.
But I do want to know that there's this other command called Shake Reduction. And it's a very advanced filter, which is why we'll be talking about it in a future course. But for now, go ahead and choose Smart Sharpen. And I'm going to increase the size of my dialogue box once again. And I'll go ahead and scroll the image down and zoom in on it here, inside the dialogue box. Now, the last settings we applied were an amount of 500%, a radius of 3 pixels. A reduced noise value of zero. And remove was set to lens blur.
And you can see those are not the right settings for this particular image because this really brings out all the bad stuff that the image has to offer. When you run into a situation like this, where you suspect that there's some camera shake because it's not easy to tell just by looking at the image. But given that the shutter speed is a quarter second, it's very likely. In such a case, go ahead and switch Remove from Lens Blur to Motion Blur. And we'll end up with this effect here. The next step is to try to figure out the direction of the camera shake, which is pretty impossible to do, just by fooling around.
You could try different setting. For example, I could go ahead and click inside this little angle widget to change the angle to negative 40 degrees in my case. Which if nothing else, is diagonal. And we end up with this effect or I could decide maybe it's straight up and down. So, I'll change the angle value of 90 degrees. Or you can try to think about what kind of camera shake is most likely. For my case I was just trying to stay as still as possible while capturing this image. So, the likelihood because I wasn't straining to look upward, which is where you run into 90 degree shakes.
Most likely, it's just a simple back and forth shake, which is going to be 0 degrees. And that ends up producing probably the best looking result as well. Now, notice I've got the amount value cranked up to 500%. I'm going to leave it there and now I'm going to experiment with a radius value, which is analogous to the amount of shake that's going on. 3 pixels is a good place to start but you might want to go ahead click inside the value and then press Shift+up arrow in order to raise that value in whole pixel increments.
And as you do, you'll probably see the noise move back and forth. And what's becoming evident as I raise the radius value, is that the noise is getting worse and worse. And so obviously, you just want to make the image look as good as it can, which is why I ultimately restored a value of three pixels. And then finally because there's so much noise in this image, I'm going to crank the reduced noise value all the way up to its maximum at 100%. And if you click and hold inside the image to see the Before view and then release to see the After view, you'll note that we're not really getting a sharpening effect.
We're just compensating for the motion blur and that's all. Which is an important step in the process, so go ahead and click OK in order to apply the filter. That's probably going to take a few moments to apply. Once it's done, you want to double-click on the Slider icon there in order to bring up the Blending Options dialog box. And as usual, you want to change the mode from Normal to Luminosity and then click OK. Alright. Now, to apply some actual sharpness by pressing Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on the Mac to bring back the Smart Sharp and dialogue box.
And, I'll go ahead and scroll the image, zoom on in once again. We don't need another helping of Motion Blur. You might want to try Lens Blur at this point and see what you get. But Lens Blur is a little too accurate and ends up bringing out these lumps of noise. So, I'm going to change Remove to Gaussian Blur, which is a lot more forgiving. It ends up creating this kind of sculptural effect in Colleen's face and that's because the Reduce Noise value's still cranked up. Go ahead and take it down to 0% this time around and you also want to reduce the Amount value.
I'm going to take it down to 300%, which is still bringing out a lot of noise and some pixel patterns as well. But those are going to fade away in the printing process because this image contains a lot of pixels. So, I'll go ahead and click OK to apply the filter. And of course, as always, you want to double-click on that Slider icon. It's a little painful because it takes a while for the blending options dialogue box to appear on screen, but once it does go ahead and change the mode from normal to luminosity and click OK.
And now let's go ahead and zoom in here to 100%. Just so that we can accurately see the pixels in the image. And now I'll turn off the bottom application of Smart Sharpen just so that you can see the contribution made by setting Remove to Motion Blur. So, notice we've got a lot more noise and more movement in this shot without that bottom filter. To bring it back I'll just go ahead and press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on the Mac. And just to get a sense for the overall effect, I'll turn off the eye in front of smart filters here.
And that will reveal the original unsharpened version of the image compared with if I press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac, the final sharpening effect. Now, you may look at this and say that's a pretty weird sharpening effect, which is why you really want to gauge it zoomed out. So, I'm going to press Ctrl minus a couple of times in order to zoom out to the 50% view. Which is going to give us a better indication of how this image will print. And I'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac once again in order to reveal the original unsharpened version of the image.
And then I'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on a Mac to display the sharpened version. And that's how you use Smart Sharpen to compensate for camera shake here inside Photoshop.
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