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In this exercise we are going to talk about setting the Smart Sharpen filter to Remove Motion Blur. Now I want to stress here, we're not really removing Motion Blur, we're not correcting a motion blurred photograph, we're merely compensating for it. There is a big difference as you will see. I am working inside of an image called Sammy shake.jpeg found inside the 03 sharpen filters folder and this is a photograph of my youngest son Sammy. And it may be that Sammy is shaking, that Sammy is in motion or it may be that my camera is in motion.
However, it worked out, and I suspected its a little bit of both actually, this is the long exposure shot, and I shot this photograph, it looks a little bizarre, but I actually think it looks pretty nice generally speaking. But it does have a lot of movement going on and that is something that we can remedy to a limited extent using Smart Sharpen set to Motion Blur. First thing I am going to do is press the F key to enter the Full Screen mode and move Sammy over a little bit here, cheat him over to the left-hand side of the screen so we have some room for the filter down here.
Then I am going to go up to the Filter menu, choose Sharpen and I am going to choose Smart Sharpen or because it was the last command I applied, you can see its up here at the top of the menu. I could just press, and this what I am going to do, I'll press Ctrl+Alt+F or Command+Option+F on the Mac, to invoke that last filter using different settings and I am going to zoom-in on his nose here for a moment. You can see this is the effect of the last settings on this particular photograph with Amount of 200%, a Radius of 3 pixels and Remove set to Lens Blur, which is not right for this photo.
But it does create this kind of painterly effect on the nose right here, this area around the nose because there is a bunch of these interesting textures that are being resolved inside of this photograph. When you have blur going on inside of the photograph, either an Optical Blur or a Motion Blur like were seeing here, the camera tends to generate a higher amount of noise and the digital noise can take on different patterns. And in this case we have these almost brush strokes patterns going on inside this image, which I think is actually pretty nifty.
But lets say that's not what I want. Well, then I wouldn't leave Remove set to Lens Blur, that's for sure. Lets go and zoom-out from the nose a little bit. I am going to leave that nose and some of the lips in the center of the photograph there. You really want to compensate for the eyes, but I am going to start with the nose. I am going to change that Remove setting from Lens Blur to Motion Blur. Now as soon as I do, a couple of things happen. First of all the nature of my Radius totally changes the nature of my Radius value, and it's going to appear to have less of an effect, even less of an effect in Lens Blur.
So your halos get yet smaller. They're also directional halos. So light halos are going to show up on one side of an edge on the larger group of edges, and the dark halos are going to show up on the other side of larger group edges as you'll see in a moment. You also have this Angle value that you can work with, which is specifically designed to determine the angle at which you move the camera, but it's really the angle of the Motion Blur filter being applied. I am going to change this to something like this angle right here, now see if you can just drag this line inside the circle there.
And something around 20 degrees is where I am going to start with. So I'll go ahead and actually take that down, what I mean to say actually is -20 degrees. I am also going to up the Radius value a little. Now it's difficult to determine exactly what Radius value you want to use when you are working with Motion Blur. Here's what I suggest. First of all, you want to be higher than the normal Radius values you would use. In this time you want to think about how much movements occurring inside of the photograph as opposed to how big you want your halos to be.
At this rate I am saying that I have about 8.7 pixels of movement going on, and bear in mind that that's a Radius value, so it would really be twice that, it'd really be like 17 or 18 pixels of movement. And of course in the real world we don't move in pixels, but we're trying to figure out how it resolves in terms of this photograph. Now I am going to switch over to one of the eyes so that we can see how this Motion Blur setting is affecting the eye. This is the before, you can see there is a little bit of movement blur going on there; this is after, and so the details actually kind of come together.
Now here's something else I am going to show you. I am going to zoom-in on this side so it takes up the larger portion of the screen here, and we're going to knock the Radius value back down to 3 pixels and with the value selected, you can see that its active because of the blinking insertion marker. I am going to press Shift+Up arrow, I want you to watch that eye and when I press Shift+Up arrow of course I am raising the Radius value in whole pixel increments. So we'll take it from 3 to 4 in this case. So watch what happens, when I press Shift+Up arrow, the eye seems to move, notice the details, its kind of moved over a little bit to the left, a little bit up and to the left.
Then I press Shift+Up arrow again and now they move down into the right a little bit, so they move the opposite direction. Even though I am going continuously upward here. Shift+Up arrow again, the 6 pixels move a little bit the other direction, Shift+Up arrow again and move the other direction again, so it's moving back and forth, back and forth from one pixel to the next. Shift+Up arrow again moves over to the left, Shift+Up arrow again it doesn't move very much. At the point where it doesn't move very much, notice now as I go up again and its starting to move back and forth some more. So the point which you don't see very much movement inside the photograph, that's the right Radius value.
So for us, its in that 8 to 9 pixel range, between 8 and 9 were not seeing much movement going on. In fact, were not seeing much difference and that's another way to tag the proper value, but that's an approximation, I have to tell you because sometimes you're going to find a very large value works out well, and sometimes you're going to find a very small value works out well, regardless of what you see going on with the movement. So this is just rule of thumb which you're going to feel free to violate of course, just keep in the back of your mind. If you have room, and then another thing is, what is the Angle value? How do you figure out the angle of the movement? Well, sometimes if its strict camera shake you will find that its almost exactly horizontal because you are vibrating back and forth with the camera.
But in this case we've got some movement from our subject mixing with the camera shake and so it could be anything. What I would suggest is you just fool around with this Angle value in order to see what works best for you. So lets go ahead and zoom. I am going to move the image over, notice that you can move and zoom the image while you have these style dialog boxes up on the screen. What it really meant to do is zoom back out from the preview right there, and I am going to just play with the Angle value, just by dragging this guy around.
So this currently were seeing an angle of -20. Lets try out an angle of 58 degrees which is running perpendicular to that, so this direction in other words, sort of up-and-downish a little bit, this would be south-west to the north-east, so in that direction. That looks pretty darn good and then if I try the opposite direction what I had before, that sort of spreads the eye-lashes out a little bit. So I don't like that nearly as much. So lets try something around this region. Lets try an Angle value, just so I can remember it, because I am going to show you different approach in a couple of exercises. Lets try an Angle value of 40 degrees for this image and I am going to leave More Accurate turned off. I'll explain that later.
So we've got an Amount of 200, Radius of 9 pixels, Remove set to Motion Blur and an Angle of 40 degrees. And just for laughs here, I just want to show you big difference between Remove set to Motion Blur and Remove set to Lens Blur particularly at this big Radius value. So a very different effect indeed. And here's Gaussian Blur just to give you yet another very, very different effect. So we cant go with nearly those high Radius values for Gaussian Blur and Lens Blur, but we can with the Motion Blur. Alright, so it looks pretty darn good. The other thing to bear in mind is we are drawing noise out of the image, so we are exaggerating the noise, but not to the extent we were with Lens Blur or if we'd tried Gaussian Blur we would be exaggerating the noise that much more as well.
So you're going to have use more noise removal before you apply this filter, or you can use a different route as I'll show you in an upcoming exercise, but for now lets just go ahead and click OK in order to take advantage of these settings. And lets go ahead and zoom-in on Sammy. So were taking a look at the child here at the 100% zoom level. So this is the before-version of Sammy and this is the after-version of Sammy, thanks to the Motion Blur settings inside the Smart Sharpen dialog box. It does not entirely cure the effects of Motion Blur inside the image, and you can see, we have a little bit of radial rotation going down here in the mouth that we can't compensate for, but it does make a difference, it does help to compensate.
In the next exercise I am going to prove to you that Smart Sharpen does indeed rely on Lens Blur and Motion Blur so if you like to geek out on that kind of stuff, join me. If you hate to geek on that kind of stuff then join me in a couple of exercises when we talk about how to compensate for a Motion Blur using the Emboss filter instead.
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