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The third part of the popular and comprehensive series Photoshop CS6 One-on-One follows industry pro Deke McClelland as he plunges into the inner workings of Adobe Photoshop. He shows how to adjust your color, interface, and performance settings to get the best out of your images and the most out of Photoshop, and explores the power of Smart Objects, Shadows/Highlights, and Curves for making subtle, nondestructive adjustments. The course dives into Camera Raw to experiment with the editing toolset there, and returns to Photoshop to discuss toning, blur, and blend modes. Deke also teaches tried-and-true methods for sharpening details and reducing noise, as well as creating quick and accurate selections with Quick Mask, Color Range, and Refine Edge commands.
In this movie I'll show you how to open an image from Camera Raw into Photoshop as an editable Smart Object, so that you can revisit Camera Raw anytime you like. So I've got this fairly dank image of the California coast here. Fortunately, of course, Camera Raw is so fantastic that I can sweeten it. So I'll go over to the flyout panel menu, choose Apply Snapshot and then choose ACR7 conversion, and we end up with this much more cheerful scene here. All right, at this point I figured this would make a great black-and-white shot.
Now, we've already seen how to make a black-and- white image in Camera Raw back in Chapter 20 of the Intermediate course, so I'll move through the process pretty quickly here. I'll switch to the HSL/Grayscale panel and then I'll turn on Convert to Grayscale, which gets rid of all my other tabs and leaves me with just one grayscale mix. Now, I don't care about the Reds value, its fine where it is, but I took the Oranges value up to +50, because I wanted to emphasize the cliff walls, which are more of a muddy brown, but that still falls in the Oranges category.
And I took the Yellows value up to 30, which helps brighten some of the foliage. And I took the Greens value up to 15. Then I took the Aquas value down to -35, which affects some of the ocean of course. And I took the Blues value down to -100. I really wanted it to be nice and dark. And then I took the Purples value up to 20 and I ended up leaving the Magentas value alone. All right, now let's go ahead and apply some Split Toning here. Now, we need to start things off by increasing the Saturation value, so I'll take the first one up to 30, and I'll take this second one up to 5.
Then I'll change the Hue value for Highlights to 45, so that we have a kind of sepia tone going, and I'll take the Hue value for the Shadows up to 240, which lends the scene just a little bit of dark blue. And finally, I'll change this Balance so that we're waiting the colors on the side of the Highlights as opposed to the Shadows, and we end up with this final scene. All right, now take a look at the Open Image button at the bottom of the screen. If you click on it, then you'll open the image inside of Photoshop and you'll also save your new metadata settings to the DNG file.
If you press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac and click on the Open button, you'll open the image inside Photoshop, but you will not save your settings to the DNG file, so the DNG file will be left entirely alone. Sometimes useful, not a great idea in our case. If you press the Shift key, you'll notice the button changes to Open Object and that's telling you that you're going to open the image as a Smart Object in Photoshop, and that's what I'm going to do. So I'll Shift+Click on that Open Object button and a few moments later we end up seeing the image opened here in Photoshop.
Then let's say you're just sort of looking around at the image, checking it out, and you suddenly realize how blotchy it is, what in the world is going on with this blotchy ocean, and you just can't even believe you didn't notice that when you were working inside Camera Raw. And even though you may have spotted that problem at the time, you will encounter other times where you think you've come up with some just great settings in Camera Raw and then they turn out not too fare so well as you modify the image in Photoshop.
Well, fortunately, this layer is a Smart Object, so all you have to do is double-click on its thumbnail to open the image again inside Camera Raw. Now I'll switch back over to my HSL/Grayscale settings and I'll go ahead and take this Aquas value down to -40, let's say, and I'll tab to Blues and press Shift+Up Arrow until that blotchiness goes away, which happens at -70. And then I'll scoot ahead to the Purples value and I'll take it down to -40, because there is some other sort of color issues at work here, and that helps to remedy them.
Now, if you take a look at the bottom of the screen here, you'll see we no longer have an Open button, we now have an OK button, because all you can do at this point is either Cancel out and not make any changes or click OK and return back to Photoshop. The thing to remember is when you return to Photoshop, you're not modifying the original DNG file, because that link is broken; now you're saving your changes back to the Photoshop composition. So if you find that you want to modify that original California coast.dng file on disk, then you're going to have to open it from Bridge and once again make your changes to the Aquas, Blues, and Purples values.
All right, there is one more change I want to make. I'll go ahead and click on this blue link at the bottom of the window that begins Adobe RGB (1998). That brings up a dialog box of settings that will allow you to change how the image opens in Photoshop. And notice this final one, Sharpen For, you can actually specify that you want to sharpen for a certain output, such as Glossy Paper in my case, and I'm going to set the Amount to High so we can see what happens. Now, you're not going to see anything happen in Camera Raw, but you will see the Sharpen details in Photoshop.
Also notice this checkbox right here, Open in Photoshop as Smart Objects, if you turn that checkbox on, then the Open button permanently changes to an Open Object button, and when you click on it, you open your RAW images in Photoshop as Smart Objects by default. If you want to override that, then you'd press the Shift key to change back to the Open Image button. So whether you select it is entirely up to you, I am going to leave it off and click OK. But before you click OK, you should note that Sharpen For becomes a saved setting and we'll see that in just a moment.
All right, I'll click OK and then click OK again in order to return to Photoshop. And now notice if I zoom in on the image, I can see those sharpened details like so. All right, I'm going to zoom back out, my sea is not nearly so blotchy, so that's a good thing. Now, at this point you'd go ahead and save your image as a PSD document, because after all it contains a layer in the form of a Smart Object. I'm going to go ahead and return to Bridge for just a moment here by going to the File menu and choosing Browse in Bridge.
And then I'll select that California coast. dng file, then I'll press Ctrl+R or Cmd+R in the Mac to revisit Camera Raw. There is our blotchy sea, just like we left it, because this file didn't get fixed. So let's go ahead and take care of the problem by changing those values once again; -40, -70, and -40 for Aquas, Blues, and Purples respectively. Then what you want to do is click on that Blue link again and make sure to set Sharpen For back to None, assuming of course that you don't want to sharpen future images.
Then I'll click OK and then I'll click Done. And that's how you open an image from Camera Raw as a Smart Object so that you can edit your Camera Raw settings anytime you like.
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