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Photoshop is the tool of choice for most creative professionals and has quickly become household name synonymous with computer art and image manipulation. In Photoshop CS3 One-on-One: Beyond the Basics, internationally renowned Photoshop guru Deke McClelland teaches such digital-age wonders as masking, filters, layers, blend modes, Liquify, Vanishing Point, and vector-based type. Along the way, Deke also teaches tried-and-true methods for sharpening details, smoothing over wrinkles and imperfections, trimming away jowls and fat, and wrapping one image around the surface of another. Plus, the training teaches how to construct and organize the elements in a composition so you can edit them easily in the future. Exercise files accompany the tutorial.
Ready for more Photoshop CS3 training with Deke? Check out Photoshop CS3 One-on-One: Advanced Techniques.
Note: Photoshop CS3 One-on-One: The Essentials is a recommended prerequisite to Photoshop CS3 One-on-One: Beyond the Basics.
Download Deke's customized keyboard layouts for Photoshop from the Exercise Files tab.
In this final exercise we are going to take a look at that last option that I haven't shown you so far inside of the Smart Sharpen dialog box. That Motion Blur setting that allows you to account for a motion inside of an image or for camera shake which happens to be at work inside this particular photograph, this image is called greatexpectations.jpeg and it comes to us from photographer Rasmus Rasmussen and I am going to go ahead and zoom in on this image so I can see it at the 100% zoom level.
And actually I want to go in just a little farther here. I am going in to 200% so that you can see how there is a little bit of shake associated with this image. So the blur that we are seeing has nothing to do with the focus not being locked on, the focus was probably locked right on this target here. It looks like we have got a somewhat long exposure because the photographer was shooting the subject under low light without a strobe and as a result we have some very nice natural lighting but because the photographer was holding the camera we have just a tiniest bit of camera shake just a few pixels of camera shake as you can see here.
And we need to figure out both the number of pixels associated with that camera shake because we have to fix it and we need to know the angle of this shake. Now the easiest way to tell what that angle and distance is, is to take a look at these little fibrous details right here. You can tell that there is a camera shake in the eyes and we need to fix the eyes most of all because as you may have heard the eyes are the window into the soul. But there is also the element of the photograph that your viewers are most likely to lock on to.
So we have got to get those eyes right but in term of judging what's going on these hairs, these little eyebrow hairs are the most telling so you can see that we have got sort of an angle like this going. The scrubbing I am doing here is the angle of movement this is the way the camera shook. And then it looks like it's about I don't know, what's this about three pixels worth of stuff, let's just go ahead and set up a sort of 2 pixel tall marquee right here maybe about 3 pixels tall and I will start it where the shake starts at this location right here and then I will move it up 1, 2, 3.
Sure enough we have got about 3 pixels, maybe 4 for mapping things out with Pythagoreans theory but I think 3 is going to do us pretty nicely, we will see. At any rate I am going to go ahead and zoom out just little bit so we can take in the guy at a 100% zoom ratio. Now I am going to press Ctrl Alt F or Command Option F on the Mac to bring up that last used filter which happens to of course be Smart Sharpen, we have been here for little while now and I am going to go ahead and zoom in once again on this guy's eyebrows for just a moment here so that we can make sure we have got the right settings.
Notice I have reinstated my default settings so I am going to have to be careful to save whatever settings I come up with in just a moment. I am going to raise that amount to 400% as I want to do just to figure out what I am doing here and I am going to change Remove Setting to Motion Blur, I am going to make sure More Accurate is turned off because it's really not your friend when you are accounting for camera shake, it just ends up exaggerating, I will turn it on here, exaggerating the noise and making an absolute mess of the image in this case. Alright so I am going to go ahead and turn it off. Now as I was saying there is this kind of angle going on to the motion inside of this image so let's change the angle of this little line inside the circle to match and I think 70% is going to work out pretty nicely.
I will move this dialog box over so that we can see this option a little better. And now let's raise a radius value. This time we are not so much concerned with whether we are going to print or what our resolution is we are more concerned with the distance of the motion blur. And in this case I was telling you I think it's about 3 pixels so I am going to just go ahead and take this radius value up to 3 pixels. And you notice, check out what happens when you change that radius value, you are actually moving the image back and forth or at least creating the appearance of the image being moved back and forth.
Maybe let's try to sort of split the difference between 3 and 4 pixels here by going with a radius value of 3.5 pixels, you can do decimals if you want to inside this dialog box at least where the radius value is concerned. And this looks actually pretty darn good to me. Let's now check out that eye. This is before because I am dragging, this is after, looks good to me actually so before once again, after looks like it's settling that eye down quite nicely. Now we are assigning way too high of an amount value so I am going to take this down. And you might want to take it down lower than this, I am going to go ahead and assign a value of 300% which ends up exaggerating the noise inside the image quite a bit.
You might have better luck with a more subtle value such as 200% or something along those lines but I don't feel that really completely resolves my camera shake issue here. So I am going to take it up a little higher. Tell you what I will split the difference once again what the heck let's make everybody happy by going to 250%. So I have got 250% for the amount, 3.5 for the radius, I am removing motion blur because I am trying to account for that camera shake, I have got an angle of 70 degrees because that seems to be about what the camera was shaken at and More Accurate turned off of course and the final thing I need to do before I click OK is what, if I click OK right now I will overwrite my default settings because that's the way this wacky dialog box works.
Instead let's go ahead and save off our settings as something along the lines of camera shake because even if it's not the camera shake settings that I am going to use on a regular basis they are a good starting point for any camera shake I might want to adjust. So I will click Okay. Then I will choose Camera Shake from the Settings menu, very important here because that ensures that you are going to preserve your default settings, you won't overwrite your default settings and then click OK in order to accept the modification just so that you can see what an amazing job this filter has done.
This is the before version of the photograph and this is the after version. That's how the Smart Sharpen function is here inside Photoshop.
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