Photoshop CS4 One-on-One: Fundamentals

Photoshop CS4 One-on-One: Fundamentals

with Deke McClelland

 


There's no program like Photoshop for editing photographs and creating photorealistic artwork. And there's no Photoshop teacher like industry expert and Photoshop Hall-of-Famer Deke McClelland. In Photoshop CS4 One-on-One: Fundamentals, Deke examines the essential capabilities of the application, from correcting color to retouching portraits. He also covers navigation, resolution, cropping, selecting, printing, and making web graphics. This course goes beyond basic tips and tricks, and provides the in-depth information and real-world context needed by serious students who want to master the software. Exercise files accompany the course.

Download Deke's customized keyboard layouts and color settings for Photoshop from the Exercise Files tab.
Topics include:
  • Previewing a selection with Quick Mask
  • Feathering a vector-based vignette
  • Creating a Flash-based web gallery
  • Understanding image size and the Image Size command
  • Refining color range and adjusting hues

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author
Deke McClelland
subject
Design, Photography
software
Photoshop CS4
level
Beginner
duration
14h 24m
released
Dec 03, 2008

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1. What Photoshop Can Do
Welcome to One-on-One
00:00(Music playing.)
00:06Hi, I am Deke McClelland.
00:07Hello and welcome to Photoshop CS4 One-on-One,
00:11my cradle-to-grave, everything-you- need-to-know series on Adobe Photoshop.
00:17As the name One-on-One implies, I walk you through Photoshop as if I were
00:21teaching it to you in a classroom or corporate consulting environment,
00:24except that instead of getting lost in the crowd of students, you receive my
00:28individualized attention.
00:30It's just you and me one-on-one.
00:33Photoshop is a big application and there is a lot to know.
00:36I have broken Photoshop CS4 One-on-One into three parts.
00:41Coming up in part one, I will introduce you to the essential topics, the stuff
00:46that everyone needs to know in the order you need to know it.
00:50We will start with the Adobe Bridge, which lets you open and organize images.
00:55Then we will see how to navigate inside Photoshop, how to correct colors, how to
01:00crop and straighten images, how to retouch a photograph, how to work with
01:05layers, and finally how to print and save for the web.
01:09In later parts, I will lead you into the advanced topics, the ones that are most
01:13likely to expand your creative range in the shortest amount of time.
01:17By the end, you will have seen everything Photoshop has to offer.
01:21This is no Tips and Tricks course.
01:23I am going to make sure you understand how Photoshop works and how you work with it.
01:28One-on-One is your chance to go from zero to 60, one easy-to-digest movie at a time.
01:36Let's start things off with a gentle introduction, by taking a look at
01:39what Photoshop can do.
01:41It's a spooky little thing I call 'what Photoshop can do.' Why spooky?
01:47You'll see.
Collapse this transcript
Introducing Photoshop
00:00Now it's very possible that many if not most of you have never really used
00:05Photoshop before, or you are not very comfortable inside the program. You've
00:08poked around, you've tried a few things but you haven't been very satisfied by
00:12the results. That's really of course, the idea behind this entire series, this
00:16Photoshop CS4 One-on-One Series is to bring you totally up to speed and believe me
00:21by time you are done, if you put in the time, you are going to be extremely
00:26well-versed in Photoshop and very comfortable with the program.
00:30But you may not be that way at this point, so what I want to do is kick things
00:34off by giving you a sense of what a professional level image editing
00:38application in general and more specifically what Photoshop can do. What kinds
00:42of image editing miracles it's capable of pulling off, and this is a pretty
00:46big one, as you are about to see.
00:48So unlike every other chapter in this series where I ask you to work along with
00:52me if you can, if you are a premium member or you have access to the DVD and
00:56you have the Exercise Files then go ahead and open them up and work along with
00:59me. In that way you are going to gain the best experience out of this series.
01:03This time though, I just want you to sit back and relax. You can open the
01:06images, they are all found inside the Exercise Files folder, but I would rather
01:09you didn't do that. I'd rather you just watch, because I am going to be working
01:13through this project fairly quickly and I am not going to give you the detailed
01:16information you would need in order to follow along.
01:18All right, so here is the idea. We are starting up with this image here. It's a
01:23photograph of the Stanley Hotel, very posh and very well known in the state of
01:27Colorado and there is a few things just kind of wrong with this image in
01:31general. The composition is really not tremendous and the lighting is terrible
01:36and the color is drab and I am shooting the image out of a moving car. I am
01:41actually the passenger in a moving car shooting this image, I believe through a
01:44shut window because we have this dark sort of shadow over here on the
01:49right-hand side of the image. It's a little bit of vignetting. A beautiful
01:52photo, right. I mean normally it's a kind of thing where I would just go, you
01:55know, and throw it away or at least ignore it.
01:58The problem is I wanted this very photo. I like this composition for where I am
02:03going. I am sort of evaluating what I want to do with this image when I was
02:06shooting it. I want to turn this image into something very, very different
02:09because you can see this hotel here is not very remote. It's right next to this
02:15commercial real estate here and also it's not particularly scary. It should be
02:20both remote and scary, because this hotel, the Stanley was the inspiration for
02:25Stephen King's famous, The Shining, both the book and the movie and everything,
02:30were modeled after this hotel.
02:31Now if you think of the movie with Jack Nicholson and Shelley Duvall, you will
02:35recall that the hotel is actually a character that drives jack Nicholson insane
02:39and causes him to kill everybody around him and Shelley Duvall in particular
02:44had options. If this was the hotel, this was really it and he was asked to be
02:48caretaker of it, then Shelley Duvall could run over here to the Safeway, which
02:52would probably be open, but if not she could go over to the KFC, I believe they
02:55have longer hours and if she was really hard pressed and needed just a break,
02:59she could go over here to the movie theatre, right? But just a lousy image,
03:03it's not the least bit frightening.
03:05What I am going to do over the course of the next few exercises is I am going
03:09to bring in this image right here, these rolling hills, and I am going to place
03:13them in front of the hotel in the foreground. So it's going to feel remote and
03:17we are going to apply a few other changes as well and we are going to finally
03:20get this dramatic composition right here, which you can see is stunning, right.
03:24We have great colors, we have great lighting, the hotel is potentially scary,
03:29even though we are seeing it not in the winter but in the summer. And we have
03:33got this great lettering, just a dynamic composition in general, which is
03:37possible thanks to the power of Photoshop and I will be showing you exactly
03:42how I assembled this composition, starting in the next exercise.
Collapse this transcript
Combining one image with another
00:00All right, the first step in transforming the plain drab Stanley Hotel into
00:05that hotel that turns a mild mannered winter caretaker into an axe-wielding
00:11crazy man, is to bring in the rolling hills. Bring those rolling hills from
00:16that other photograph into this one so that we can cover up all of this
00:20foreground nonsense, the top of this SUV and this caterpillar over there and
00:25there is the FedEx like van or something along those lines and we have all the
00:28strip mall garbage going on here, let's get rid of it. Let's cover it up.
00:31So I am going to switch over to my rolling hills image. I shot this photograph
00:36in Rocky Mountain National Park, which is only a few miles away from Estes
00:41Park, however you can see that it's much more tranquil and it's much more
00:45isolated and distant from society, so that works for us.
00:48Now what I want to do is I want to select the obvious foreground right here
00:52that ends at this line of trees and I have already done that in advance and I
00:56save that selection out as a mask. Let me show you what I am talking about. I
01:00will press Shift+Tab to retrieve my palettes over here in the right side of the
01:03screen and I should mention just FYI, in Photoshop CS4, Adobe now calls these
01:08things panels. I am going to continue to call them palettes and it's not just
01:12because I am a crusty old man and I can't get with the program, it's a little
01:16more nuance than that. I think we have to be careful with our language and
01:19panels already has a meaning inside of Photoshop and some of the other Adobe
01:23programs. So it's not like the term is just sitting there waiting for a definition.
01:27All right, so anyway I am going to switch over to the Channels palette and I am
01:31going to click on this palette right here called Mask, and when you save a
01:34selection outline white indicates the area that's selected and black indicates
01:38the area that's not selected, and believe you me, we are going to review
01:41selection outlines and masks in a lot more detail in this and the other
01:45Photoshop one-on-one series.
01:47But for now, I am going to go ahead and load this mask as the selection outline
01:51by pressing the Ctrl key here on the PC or the Command key on the Mac and
01:54clicking on this thumbnail. Now we have a selection. Now I will go back to the
01:58RGB composite image. I want to drag this selected region independently of the
02:03rest of the image into the Stanley.jpg file, so I need to be able to see both
02:08of the images at the same time. I will go up to the Application bar, which is
02:11new to Photoshop CS4 and I will click on this Arrange Documents icon and then I
02:16will click on 2 Up and I will be able to see two images at the same time.
02:21Now I will go up to the Move tool and grab it and notice that, if I drag it
02:26inside the selection, I can actually move the selected area independently of
02:29the deselected area and I am going to drag it and drop it into the other image.
02:34Now you will notice that the top image is now active because its title tab
02:38right here is lighter than the one below. So to focus just on the top image, I
02:43can go back to this Arrange Documents icon, click on it and choose Consolidate All.
02:48All right, so got a little bit of a problem, I am going to Shift+Tab away my
02:52palettes for a moment. The problem is that I am covering up too much of the
02:55image, not only am I covering up the strip malls and all that other garbage
02:58down there at the bottom, but I am covering up the Stanley Hotel and the good
03:01portion of the foothills in the background.
03:04I want to drag these rolling hills downward like so and I have actually gone
03:08ahead and giving myself a guideline, I have created this in advance. I will go
03:11up to the View menu and I will choose Show and I will choose Guides, so I can
03:16see this one horizontal guideline that I have put into place and I will go
03:19ahead and drag the trees and rolling hills down far there until they snap into
03:23alignment with that guide right there, it's good.
03:26Now I don't need the guide anymore, so I will go up to the View menu and I will
03:29choose Show and I will choose Guides to turn it off. All right, now I am going
03:33to zoom-in on the image and I will tell you all about navigation later but for
03:37now I am just going to zoom-in and notice that we have these trees and they are
03:42pretty articulated, I have done a good job by selecting the trees but that
03:45doesn't mean that this composition looks right.
03:46For example, we still have a little bit of what turns out to be a bank
03:50building, showing through in the background and if I pan over to the left side
03:54of the image, you can see other buildings that are popping up as well,
03:58including for example Safeway back here and we have just these bratty
04:02transitions around these trees, just doesn't look right.
04:05If I zoom out a little bit, you can see that the color of the foreground trees
04:09doesn't match to the color of the background trees either, so that's another
04:12problem and that turns out to be the problem that we are going to address in
04:16the next exercise when we modify the colors inside of this foreground image,
04:22stay tuned.
Collapse this transcript
Adjusting brightness and contrast
00:00All right gang, let's go ahead and modify the colors of the foreground rolling
00:04hills, so that they look more at home with the colors in the background image.
00:09I am going to press Shift+Tab to bring back my palettes and I am going to
00:11switch to the Layers palette right here and noticed that Photoshop is gone
00:15ahead and automatically assign the rolling hills to its own independent layer
00:19and I could turn that layer off in order to expose this strip malls and all
00:22that jazz and I can turn that back on, in order to cover them up.
00:25Let's go and rename this layer by double clicking on its current name and I
00:28will call this Rolling hills like so. Now I want to apply some color
00:34modifications and just because it's handy, I am going to go to the New
00:38Adjustments palette here in Photoshop CS4. So I am going to click to the right
00:42of the word Styles in order to collapse that palette so I have a little more
00:45room to work and then I will click to right of Masks in order to expand that
00:49palette and let's go ahead and throw on this adjustment right there,
00:53Brightness/Contrast.
00:54Now this is a function that I would not have applied three or four years ago.
00:59Because Brightness/Contrast used to be just a terrible command but in the
01:02previous addition of the software, it got much better and it's now actually a
01:06fairly terrific command under certain circumstances. It works beautifully for
01:10this image for example.
01:10So I will go ahead and click on that icon in order to add what's known as an
01:14Adjustment Layer to my Layers palette and I am going to reduce the brightness
01:19value to -30 by pressing Shift+Down Arrow three times in a row and I want to
01:25darken up that foreground image fairly dramatically, which I have, but I have
01:28also darkened up the background image as you can see here.
01:32So an Adjustment layer will affect all layers below it and I can change that, I
01:36can change that behavior, so we are only affecting the rolling hills, by
01:39clicking on this option right here. So that goes ahead and clips my adjustment
01:44to the rolling hills image, so that it's only affecting the rolling hills layer
01:48and not the background image.
01:50Now let's go to the Contrast, I will click inside of the contrast value and I
01:52will press Shift+Up Arrow three times in a row in order to increase the
01:56contrast of the rolling hills. Once again, the background image is not
02:00affected. Now don't get too hung up on what I am doing here, the Shift+Down
02:04Arrow and Shift+Up Arrows. I am just telling you for the sake of due diligence.
02:08So I am just telling you what I am doing. But again, I don't wants you to
02:10really work with me, I just want you to watch this unfold and then later of
02:13course, in future chapters, you will get every bit of information there as know
02:18about how these options work.
02:19All right, so there is the Brightness/ Contrast adjustment layer and perhaps
02:24your first look at the Adjustment palette here inside of Photoshop CS4. In the
02:28next exercise, we are going to modify the colors so that the foreground trees
02:32and the background trees match.
Collapse this transcript
Adjusting color and tone
00:00All right, so here is our composition so far. We have got these rolling hills
00:04in the foreground covering up a bunch of the strip mall action inside of this
00:09background image that contains the Stanley Hotel and so on. Now I went ahead
00:13and modify the brightness and contrast of the rolling hills in the foreground,
00:16which very nearly completely corrected the colors over here in the right hand
00:20portion of the image but over here, in the left hand area we still have some
00:24problems that we need to fix and actually all of the rolling hills are going to
00:27benefit from our next couple of modifications.
00:30So I will bring back up my palettes by once again pressing Shift+Tab and I want
00:34to create another Adjustment Layer, so here inside the Adjustment palette, I am
00:37going to click on this left pointing arrowhead and that gets me back to the adjustment list.
00:43Now here is another reason by the way that I call palettes palettes is because
00:49we have got multiple panels going on inside the Adjustments palette because we
00:54can switch back and forth like this. I could see the Brightness/Contrast panel
00:58or I could see the big Adjustment List panel. So what would I call those, if I
01:02was calling the Adjustment palette a panel, you see where I am coming from I
01:06think. Anyway, I am going to go down to this item right there, Hue/Saturation,
01:10and click on it because it allows us to modify the hues, which is the core
01:15color components of an image as well as saturation, which is the intensity of
01:20those colors.
01:21Notice if you will that this Adjustment layer is not indented like the one
01:25below, so it will affect all of the layers below it. So if I were to transform
01:30the colors like so, I will really make a big hue modification. I am changing
01:34the colors throughout the image. If I just want to affect the rolling hills
01:37image then I need to clip it too, I need to make it indented by going up to
01:41this little icon right there and clicking on it.
01:44So now we are just affecting the foreground image, not in the way that actually
01:48helps thus far. Let's go ahead and bring this value back to five actually works
01:52out pretty well. So we are just slightly rotating those hue values and you will
01:56learn what that means to rotate hue values in the future chapter not too long
02:00from now actually.
02:01Next, I want to increase the saturation, the intensity of these colors. So I
02:05will just go ahead and click inside of the Saturation value right there and I
02:08will press Shift+Up Arrow until I get something that looks reasonably good,
02:13which is at about +30. This looks pretty nice actually.
02:16Now I am going to go ahead and apply some selective modifications by, which I
02:20mean, we need to somehow darken the colors in the left hand trees while not
02:25affecting the colors in the right hand trees because they look pretty good, as
02:28you can see over here on the right side of the image. So it's really these guys
02:31that are drifting over here to the left that we have our problem with.
02:33So I am going to click on the rolling hills layer right there and actually I am
02:38going to ahead and hide the Adjustments palette so that we have more room to
02:41work, just by clicking to the right of the word Masks. So now I have the
02:45rolling hills layer selected, grand and I am going to go ahead and pan over to
02:49the left side of the image. I will press Shift+Tab in order to hide those palettes.
02:53Now there is a tool that lets you darken in Photoshop and it's the Burn tool. I
02:57will go ahead and click and hold down this tool right here, which brings up a
02:59Fly-out menu and then I will click on this one, the Burn tool, in order to make
03:04it active and I am going to make my brush bigger by changing this Master
03:07Diameter value right here to something really enormous like 400 actually, works
03:11out nicely, and now I am going to go ahead and reduce the Exposure value up
03:16here in the Options Bar.
03:17I am going to take it down to 35%, it will probably work pretty nicely for us
03:21and then I am going to paint over the tops of these trees like so and I am
03:26trying to take a little bit of care by just sort of click in a few of the trees
03:29like this in order to darken those colors and you can see that every time I
03:34click I am deepening the colors and this tool, incidentally for those of you
03:38who may have some experience with earlier versions of Photoshop, the Burn tool
03:43has been dramatically improved in Photoshop CS4.
03:46All right, so that looks pretty good to me, now if we go too far, if you start
03:49painting all over the place like this and you go, oh gosh, that was a mistake,
03:53of course, you can undo the modification by pressing Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on the Mac.
03:58All right, so that looks pretty good. It's not a perfect match but it's coming
04:02along. We still need to get rid of those buildings however, those background
04:06buildings, they are a giveaway that we are covering up details and we are going
04:09to actually clone those buildings away in the next exercise.
Collapse this transcript
Cloning away unwanted details
00:00All right, so we have made some pretty impressive progress so far. If I were to
00:04turn off these two layers by dragging over their eyeballs, you can see this is
00:08what the rolling hills looked like before and I will drag again, watch the
00:12screen, this is what they look like after. So we have a much better color match. You see that?
00:16Now it's not perfect of course and we have some major problems I think in terms
00:21of these buildings showing up in the background and I want to go ahead and
00:25cover those up better. You can see if I turn off the rolling hills eyeball,
00:29this right here this building is a bank actually, you can see it's the Bank of
00:34Colorado. I don't know if you could make that out and if I turn on the rolling
00:38hills much of the bank is covered up but not nearly enough.
00:41So what we are going to do is we are going to clone the trees onto the bank
00:46building. But we are not going to change any of the colors in the background
00:48layer. We are going to affect the rolling hills layer right here. So I will
00:52make sure it's active then I will press Shift+Tab to get rid of the palette, so
00:54we have a little more room to work.
00:56Now I am going to go ahead and zoom out a little bit and I am going to grab
00:59this tool right here, the Clone Stamp tool, which is great for cloning details
01:03inside of an image and I am going to increase the size of my brush to 100
01:09pixels like so, and go ahead and hide that drop down palette from view. Now
01:13what this brush does, is it allows you to clone regions of the image.
01:16So you have to set up a source point, which is what's you are cloning and a
01:20destination point, which is where you are cloning to and you do that with an
01:24Alt-click. So if I press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac and click, I
01:29establish that point right there is being the source and then when I release
01:32the Alt or Option key I can see a preview of that area inside of my brush,
01:37which is a new feature by the way of Photoshop CS4 and a really good one too.
01:41Now I can paint over this bank building and it magically goes away. Of course,
01:46that's a terrible clone right there because it's soft and drifty and it doesn't
01:51look realistic at all. Certainly I got rid of the bank building but I didn't
01:55replace it with anything credible and honestly this is a kind of thing where
02:00somebody who is fairly experienced with Photoshop can completely nail you. They
02:03will just look at this and go, well, you just cloned some trees. That's terrible.
02:08So I will go ahead and undo that modification by pressing Ctrl+Z or Command+Z
02:12on the Mac. What we need to do is to choose a better source point and I like
02:16this little tree right there in another set, I will go ahead and press the Alt
02:18key or the Option key on the Mac, keep that key down for a moment so that you
02:22can see this articulated tree right there and I will go ahead and Alt-click or
02:26Option-click right on it.
02:28Now I have got that guy loaded as you can see and I will move over to the bank
02:32building and I will paint pretty high actually. Right about there is going to
02:37do us pretty well and you can see that we are painting away a lot of stuff and
02:42painting into the bank building and then I am going to paint down, but I still
02:45have a little bit of driftiness right there. Do you see what I am talking
02:48about where it's a little bit of softness that doesn't make sense? Like this
02:51tree looks ultra hard. That's great and so it looks like it's a credible part of
02:55our composition once again.
02:57So I am going to go up to the Options Bar right there and I am going to turn
03:00off the Aligned check box, so that I can keep painting with that same piece of
03:05tree over and over and then I will go ahead and drag down like so and that
03:09looks pretty good. We have a nice kind of mix of the various trees going on.
03:12Now let's go over to the left side of the image and a problem here is that
03:17things are little more barren, we don't have nearly as many trees. So if I just
03:21start painting like so then it's really getting me hard to control what I am
03:26doing, anyway it's a mess.
03:28So I am going to undo that modification and I will show you, this really great
03:31trick. Again, I go up to the Mode menu right there and I don't expect you, I
03:35need to say this, I don't expect you to retain any of this. I am really just
03:39trying to give you a sense of what you can accomplish, the specific details of,
03:43which we will explore in later chapters. I know I keep saying that, but if you
03:48like I need to keep saying that.
03:49I am going to go up to this Mode menu, click on it and I am going to choose
03:53Behind so that we are painting new trees behind the layer so in the region
03:58behind the other trees. We are still working on the active layer, that rolling
04:01hills layer, and I can see of course a preview of my brush right there. I am
04:06going to keep it fairly high, so that we were painting on top of that rear
04:09building and notice we are putting trees, new trees into the background.
04:13Now I am not quite so happy with-- well, actually that looks pretty good.
04:17I shouldn't say I am not happy with it. I am happy with it. That looks great, but
04:20we are not covering up enough of this building. So I think I will go ahead and
04:23undo that modification and I will start higher like so and more to the left,
04:28and I will paint again and now it looks like we are painting away that building
04:32pretty nicely and I will go all the way over here to the -- now this is kind of
04:36where things fall apart a little bit here over on the right hand side because
04:40we are painting pretty high. We are actually painting a pretty tall crest of
04:43tress and I run out. Notice that I have got a sharp outline right there where I
04:47ran out of tree details because I ran into this edge.
04:51All right, so you know what? I am going to undo that modification once again,
04:55sometimes this is the kind of stuff you just have to do and I am going to paint
04:59starting right there. So I don't run out of tree detail over there on to right
05:03hand side and also so that I don't end up creating too tall of a crest of trees
05:08and I think what I really need to do is establish a new source point.
05:12So I will come back to this right hand region of the image over here and I will
05:16go ahead and Option-click or Alt-click right about there in order to set that
05:21as a source of my cloning, so that I have a lot of stuff to work with and then
05:25I will click and drag like so in order to paint over that region of the image
05:30and I am going to paint over the Safeway as well.
05:32Then if we need to add still more trees as we most certainly do, then I could
05:37Alt-click or Option Click in order to set yet another source point and I could
05:41paint like this and now I am really covering up those details quite nicely. I
05:46think at every time I am painting, I am sending more tress into the background.
05:50So in back of our current forest of trees, then I will paint these guys in
05:55there as well and I would say now at this point we have completely covered up
05:59those background buildings. So done a pretty good job.
06:01I just need to make sure that we don't have any of these kind of -- well
06:04actually that looks pretty good. I was going to say this kind of nonsense right
06:07here, where the trees drift off gently into the background but that's not what
06:10we are seeing, those are some background bushes and I could choose to cover
06:13them up if I wanted to by painting in some more trees but I am not going to, I
06:17think that looks all right.
06:18Now what doesn't look all right is the transitions between the original trees
06:23on this layer and the new background foliage. So we have some sort of neon
06:29edges going on and we will get rid of those by changing the mode from Behind,
06:34back to Normal so that we can paint over these trees and then I will just set
06:38about painting these trees sort of away, you know arbitrarily here and there
06:43inside of the image and this is a kind of stuff when you start cloning, you --
06:48A, got to be very careful about what clones you design to apply and B, you got
06:52to do an awful lot of cloning in order to resolve the discrepancy. So that you
06:58have some credible modification inside of your image and I would say this looks
07:03pretty done good.
07:04Now the funny thing is you and I know that those trees, a lot of those trees
07:08are absolute forgeries, and yet I will go ahead and switch back to my
07:12rectangular Marquee tool just so that I don't have a cursor. If I bring back my
07:15Layers palette by pressing Shift+Tab and then turn off rolling hills for a
07:19moment, it's kind of a surprise to see all that stuff in the foreground.
07:22We did an awfully nice job of covering it up with all of the stuff right here
07:27and if I feel like, you know what, I feel like I need to raise the rolling
07:31hills just a little bit, so then I have little bit of wiggle room between the
07:35stuff that I am covering up and the new stuff on top of this layer right here.
07:39Then I could switch back to my Move tool and then I could press Shift+Up Arrow,
07:44maybe two times in a row just like that, in order to raise those rolling hills
07:48just a little bit higher and there we have it. I think this looks pretty done. Nice, folks.
07:53Now that I still need to enhance the scariness of my scene and we are going to
07:57do that by applying a couple of additional adjustment layers. This time though,
08:01we are going to affect the entire composition. Stay tuned.
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Adding an entire composition
00:00All right this far we have done a great job, I think, of getting rid of all
00:05those foreground details, all that strip mall garbage, and I will show you what I
00:09mean. If I turn off this rolling hills layer, look at all that stuff that we
00:13have covered up. Turn it back on the Stanley hotel. It's now properly isolated
00:18I think from the rest of the world. However, it doesn't look all that scary.
00:23I want a hotel that's so terrifying that if I showed up there I was going to
00:28get axe murdered. So we need to add a couple of additional Adjustment Layers to
00:32bring out some of the scariness, some of the terrifying aspects of this scene
00:37and these adjustments layers are going to affect the entire composition,
00:40foreground rolling hills and background, Stanley image.
00:43So I will press Shift+Tab to bring back my palettes. I will click on the top
00:47layer here inside the Layers palette to make it active, so that we are adding
00:50our new adjustment layers on top of the old adjustment layers. Then I am going
00:53to click to the right of Masks in order to bring up the Adjustments palette.
00:57Then I am going to click on the left pointing arrowhead to return to the
01:00Adjustment List and I want to start things off by adding a Levels adjustment
01:04layer, which is terrifying in and of itself.
01:06Notice if I click on Levels, it brings up this thing called a Histogram and we
01:11will be exploring that in all kinds of detail in a later chapter because this
01:14is one of Photoshop's most useful color adjustment commands. And I am going to
01:18click in this third Input levels value as it's known and I am going to press
01:22Shift+Down Arrow and notice that went ahead and brightened the screen. This is
01:27before, if I raise the value, this is after.
01:29So we have just ever so slightly brightened it and I want to leach some of the
01:34blue out of this image, I consider this image to be too cool right now and I
01:37want to warm it up. So I am going to go up to this RGB item right there, click
01:41on it and choose Blue in order to limit my modifications to the blue channel.
01:46And then I will click in this middle option right here and I press Shift+Down
01:51Arrow to take it down to 0.9.
01:53Now look at the image, this is the before version cool, this is the after
01:57version warmed up. And it's still little bit too green for my taste. So I will
02:03switch over to the green channel right here and then I will nudge this value,
02:08this middle value once again down to 0. 95 and that gets rid of a little bit of
02:13the green, leaves behind a warmer, redder scene. And again, I say this every
02:19single time, but I don't expect you to remember a single thing about what you
02:22are seeing right now. It's just too much stuff that I am throwing at you, and
02:25if you have never seen a Levels command forget about it, just know I am going
02:29to be there for you when it's really time to learn Levels. I will show you how
02:32it works and you will be a Levels master.
02:35All right, next I want to add a lot of intensity to the scene, I really want to
02:39intensify the colors. So I am going to click on this Left Pointing Arrow head
02:42once again and this time we are going to add a new function in Photoshop CS4,
02:46which is Vibrance. So I am going to go ahead and click on this V icon, this
02:51purple V right there, in order to add a Vibrance layer. And we have got two
02:55controls, Saturation and Vibrance.
02:58I am going to click inside the Saturation option. Watch the image, if press
03:01Shift+Up Arrow three times in a row, I am going to send that saturation value
03:05+30, but I am also going to enhance the intensity of these colors like crazy
03:09and then I want a little bit more fine tuned control. Notice that I am making
03:13the foreground colors quite intense, we have got all kinds of yellows that are
03:16riddled through this landscape, but the blues of the background remain at
03:20fairly low ebb.
03:21So I am going to click inside this Vibrance value and I am going to press
03:24Shift+Up Arrow one, two, three, four times in a row in order to increase that
03:28value to +40 and so now we are doing a better job of bringing out those
03:32background hues as well. So this what the scene looked like before at the
03:37outset of this exercise, kind of tepid really by comparison and this is what it
03:43looks like now, thanks to two powerful Adjustment Layers that are affecting the
03:47entire composition.
03:49In the next exercise, we are going to create something that we are currently
03:52lacking, a dark and stormy sky.
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Creating a dark and stormy sky
00:00All right, in this exercise I am going to show you how to create a dark and
00:03stormy sky, and in our case we are not really talking about a dark and stormy
00:08night, it's more like a dark and stormy afternoon. But still, we will have dark
00:13and stormy, those will be our operative words. Now just to be safe, I have gone
00:17ahead and saved my progress so far as a file called Enhanced colors.psd but you
00:23don't actually care about that because you are not working along with me. You
00:26are just watching me show you what Photoshop can do.
00:29So I am going to Shift+Tab back to my palettes and notice that I have hidden
00:32the Adjustments palette, I am just looking the Layers palette. And I am going
00:36to add a new layer by clicking on this little Page Icon down here at the bottom
00:40of the Layers palette and I will call this new layer Moodiness like so and I am
00:45going to add a gradient actually to this layer. So I will go over here to the
00:49Gradient tool, which is sandwiched between the Eraser and this little droplet,
00:54which is the Blur tool.
00:55I will go ahead and grab the Gradient tool and by default its set to Foreground
00:58to Background. I am going to change it to Foreground to Transparent by clicking
01:02on this icon and then I am going drag from roughly here, I figure down to here,
01:09like so and I have got the Shift key down, just to constraint the angle of my
01:12drag to exactly vertical and then I will release.
01:14Now, that doesn't look so much like a dark and stormy sky as our real planetary
01:21problem. But we are going to change that by going over here to this Blend mode
01:25option, here in the upper left corner of the Layers palette and I will change
01:28this Setting from Normal to Overlay like so and now we will go ahead and drop
01:33that gradient into the image and then we will create an interaction between the
01:37gradient and the background colors of the sky. So just to give you a sense of
01:41what we have done, here's the composition without that Moodiness Layer, here's
01:45the composition with the Moodiness Layer. So it makes a nice difference I think.
01:48Now, it's darkening the tops of the hills. You may be able to see that and I
01:52don't want that, I don't want this strange top darkness going on. So I will
01:56switch to my Eraser tool and I will go ahead and not only increase the size of
02:02my Eraser, I might work with something like a 50 pixel eraser here, but also
02:06reduce the Hardness value from a 100% to 0% like so.
02:10Actually that's still too small, let's go ahead and raise that up to a 100, why
02:13don't we. I think that will work better for us and then I will paint away the
02:17mount top like so. So we don't have that darkness bearing down on the hills and
02:21I might as well make these guy a little lighter as well. Just trying to make
02:24sure that we are erasing those areas out. All right, that looks pretty good to me.
02:27Now I want to go ahead and burn the sky using the Burn tools, we saw few
02:32exercises back. So I am going to click on the Background Layer to make it
02:35active here in the Layers palette. And then I am going Shift+Tab away my
02:39palette so that I can see all of my images at once. And then I am going to grab
02:42my Burn tool and I am going to increase the Diameter from 400 to something like
02:47700, actually it's going to work better for this. And I will change the
02:50Exposure value to 50% and then I am going to paint across the sky.
02:55Look at that. That darkens it up quite nicely I think. Adds quite a bit of
02:59moodiness to the setting and I might as well make the hills a little darker as
03:03well by dragging over them and then I am going to drag just once over the
03:07Stanley. Not much but I just want to darken it up too and if I feel like I want
03:12further darkening of the sky, I really want to make it nice and moody, then I
03:15will turn off Protect Tones for a moment, because I am just trying to bring out
03:19a lot of noise inside of the sky.
03:21And if I turn that off, I am going to restore the previous behavior of the Burn
03:25tool back in the old days of Photoshop CS3 and earlier behavior, and I will
03:29reduce that Exposure value to 20% because once you start working in the old
03:33school, this tool does a lot of damage very quickly. So let's keep it fairly
03:37subtle and I will just drag over this region of the sky right there, just one
03:40drag over the right hand area maybe a little bit down here as well and that's
03:45good, I like this quite a bit.
03:47Now we still have a problem that I want to address, which is all this noise
03:50that's going on in the sky, for example, I will zoom in on the sky here and you
03:54can see that there is a lot of random color variations going on. This is known
03:58as Digital Noise and we will address it in the very next exercise.
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Reducing the noise in the sky
00:00All right gang, we have come a long way in terms of making our image more
00:03menacing, more malignant, which is a good thing, of course in our case. But we
00:08have also brought out a lot of colored noise. So if I go ahead and zoom into
00:11the top of the image, so that's where you really see it. We are not seeing it
00:14so much down below, because up here towards the top is where we have done the most damage.
00:19We have applied the most modifications that is to say, and the more you modify an
00:23image, the more you destroy its details, this happens to be one of those
00:27things. And then you need to go in and repair the details sometimes, as we do
00:31in the case of this sky. So notice, we have got this Digital Noise, meaning we
00:36have random variations between neighboring pixels. Most of our random
00:40variations are in the color department but some of our variations happen in the
00:45brightness department as well.
00:47So here's what we are going to do. I am going to press Shift+Tab to bring up my
00:50Layers palette and I am going to make sure the Background layer is active and I
00:53want to apply a non-destructive filter to this layer and the best way to do
00:57that is to go up to the Layer menu, choose Smart Objects and choose Convert to
01:02Smart Object. And Smart Objects are very powerful also quite advanced. But we
01:08are going to take advantage of it because it enables us to apply a filter and
01:12then mask away the areas that we don't want to modify.
01:14I will go ahead and change this new layer, which is now Smart Object, I will go
01:19ahead and change its name to Stanley, since that's what it is The Stanley Hotel
01:23there. Just so that we have enough room to work here, I am going to move my
01:26image up and to the left, just so I can see as much of the sky detail as
01:31possible because the filter that we are about to choose brings up a really big dialog box.
01:35All right, so I am going to go the Filter menu, choose Noise and choose Reduce
01:40Noise right here and this is a very powerful feature inside the software. Now
01:45for starter's I am going to increase the Reduce Color Noise value to a 100%.
01:49Now we are not going to really see what we are doing here inside of this
01:53preview, because the original image doesn't really appear to have any noise and
01:57we are really not seeing that much noise inside of this Background layer.
02:01But when we see it in the context of the Adjustment Layers and that Gradient
02:06Moodiness layer and all that, that's when we really see the color and noise
02:09coming out. So by virtue of the fact that I just took that Color Noise value up
02:13to a 100%, we have got rid of a lot of the noise in the background. So I want
02:17you to keep your eye over here in this left region. If I turn the Preview check
02:21box off this is the way the noise looked before, this is the way it looks after
02:25and hopefully you can perceive that. I will go ahead and zoom in a little bit
02:28more in just a moment but before I do I want to change a couple of other values.
02:32First of all, I don't want to sharpen any details inside of this dialog. So I
02:36will take that value down to zero. I am going to increase the Strength value,
02:41which is the amount of brightness noise that we are depleting, I will increase
02:44this Brightness value up to 10, so we are setting it to its maximum setting and
02:49then I will take Preserve Details down to 10 as well. So these happen to be the
02:53best settings for this image. Obliviously, each and every image requires a
02:57different manipulation. I will go ahead and click OK in order to accept that modification.
03:01Now I will zoom in just so that we can really see how there is very little on
03:05the way of noise left. So this is what that image looked like before, if I just
03:08press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on a Mac and this what it looks like now. So pretty
03:13big difference where the Color Noise is concerned.
03:15Now notice that we have gone ahead and added this Smart Filter to this Stanley
03:20layer and there it is, Reduce Noise. I could double click on it to modify the
03:24settings or I can click inside of this Filter Mask right there and I definitely
03:29want to do that because if I scroll down to The Stanley Hotel itself and I were
03:35to turn off this effect, notice how much crisper the detail inside The Stanley
03:40Hotel is before than it is after, if I turn the effect back on. So we have a
03:45lot of color bleeding, a lot of problems.
03:48So this effect that we have applied is good for the sky but bad for the hotel.
03:51So again, I am going to go ahead and click in the Filter Mask in order to make
03:54it active, then I am going to zoom out from the image so that I can see more of
03:57it at a time. I am going to grab my Gradient tool once again and I am drawing
04:02not inside the image but inside this Filter Mask and notice that my Foreground
04:06to Background Colors are set to White as Foreground and Black as Background.
04:09I will change my Gradient to Foreground to Background once again, and I am
04:15going to drag from right about here downward like so and I have got the Shift
04:19key down once again so that I am constraining the angle of my drag to exactly
04:23vertical and then I will release and that goes ahead and protects the building.
04:27So this is before, let's go ahead and zoom in on that building once again. This
04:31is the before version where the colors are bleeding all over the place, this is
04:34the after version with the crisper detail and yet we are still getting rid of
04:39the noise up there in the sky. Thanks to a combination of a Smart Object, a
04:43Smart Filter, and a Filter Mask, all of which you will learn more about much,
04:47much later inside of part three of this series.
04:51In the next exercise, we are going to bring out more of the detail inside of
04:56the image by sharpening it using a strangely named but powerful filter called
05:00Unsharp Mask. Stay tuned.
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Sharpening the detail
00:00All right, fellow lovers of the dark and the sinister. In this exercise we are
00:04going to sharpen the detail inside of this composition and we are going to do
00:09that by creating a yet another Smart Object and applying yet another Smart Filter to it.
00:14Now one of the things you can do inside a Photoshop is roll Smart Objects
00:18inside Smart Objects and that's exactly what we are going to do in this case.
00:21So I have got the Stanley layer selected here inside my Layers palette, this is
00:25the rear layer in the stack. And I am going to Shift-click on this layer right
00:29there. That's the Hue/Saturation layer, which you may recall we created several
00:33exercises ago now.
00:34And by Shift-clicking and then I select this entire range of layers. This way
00:38by rolling all these guys into a single Smart Object I will be able to sharpen
00:42the contents of the Stanley and the Rolling Hills layers, while at the same
00:46time maintaining the appearance of those Adjustments layers that are applied to
00:50just the Rolling Hills layer and nothing else.
00:52So there is some fairly twisted logic going on here and this will make more and
00:56more sense as you work your way through the series. All right, so with these
00:59layers I am going to go up to the Layer menu. I am going to choose Smart
01:02Objects and I am going to choose Convert to Smart Object just like before and
01:06now we get a single Smart Object layer, where once we had several layers inside
01:11that stack. All right, so I will just go ahead and name this Image comp or
01:15something along those lines, where comp stands for composition. Composition
01:19being something of a coverall name for a multi-layered image.
01:23All right, so I am going to go ahead and make the Layers palette more narrow,
01:26like it was before just by dragging that edge. Then I am going to go on to the
01:30Filter menu, I am going to choose Sharpen and I am going to choose Unsharp
01:34Mask, one of the core filters available to you inside Photoshop. And I will
01:40increase the Amount value to 200% and I will leave the Radius value set to 1, I
01:44will leave Threshold set to zero as well. And then I will click OK in order to
01:48accept that modification and you can see now I have got a Smart Filter and that
01:52Smart Filter happens to be on Sharp Mask. I have got a Filter Mask, but I am
01:56not going to use it, so we will ignore it that for now.
01:58I am just going to zoom in on the Stanley here and just give you a sense of
02:02what we just accomplished. This is before and this is after, so we have some
02:07very, very tactile detail inside of this image. It brings out some of the
02:11roughness inside the image as well, but that's all right. That's a good
02:14tradeoff because after all a sharper hotel is a more dangerous hotel. But if I
02:20Shift+Tab away my palettes, we can see that there is just too much of it, we
02:24have got too much sky up above, we have got way too much landscape down below.
02:28I really want to hone in on the hotel itself and we are going to do that using
02:33cropping as I will explain in the next exercise.
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Cropping the artwork
00:00All right, so we have made a lot of progress inside of this image composition
00:04here, and the only problem is that there's too much of it. We are too distant
00:08from the main character, which is the hotel, the scary hotel here. And so I
00:13want to hone in on the hotel. Put it right there in a foreground so that our
00:17attention is absolutely monopolized by it and we are going to do that by
00:22cropping the image using this tool right here the Crop tool.
00:25So I will go ahead and select the Crop tool and then I am going to drag across
00:29the image in order to set a crop boundary and the idea behind the crop boundary
00:34is that anything that falls inside of the boundary here, inside of this
00:37rectangle, will remain a part of the cropped image. Anything outside of the
00:42crop boundary will be cropped away. So I am going to make some modifications to
00:46this crop boundary just by dragging these edge handles, as you see me doing now
00:51and you can resize the crop boundary as much as you want before you apply it.
00:55And then once I get the crop boundary exactly the way I want it, I will go up
00:59to the Option Bar and I will turn on the Hide radio button right there to make
01:03sure that we don't end up completely cropping away the contents of the layers
01:08but we are just hiding them, so that we can retrieve them later on if we want
01:11to. Meaning that we are applying a non-destructive crop.
01:14So we give ourselves as much flexibility as possible. Then I can apply the crop
01:19by either pressing the Enter key or the Return key on the Mac or I could go
01:22ahead and click on this Check box up here in the Options bar and that's what I
01:26am going to do, I am going to click on the Check box and then we have cropped
01:29away the extraneous portion of the image. If I zoom in here by pressing
01:32Ctrl+Plus or Command+Plus on the Mac, you can see how we are really directing
01:36the viewers' attention on the hotel itself.
01:39All right, so we are nearly done. In the next and the final exercise of this
01:43chapter we are going to add the scary text. Stay tuned.
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Working with text layers
00:00In this final exercise of the chapter, I am going to add some scary text to
00:04this composition and you will see how Photoshop lets you do things to text
00:08that you just can't do inside other applications. All right, so I have got a
00:12new version of my image open here, it's called Dark and stormy text.psd. Once
00:17again, found inside the 01_hello_ Photoshop folder. Just in case you feel like
00:22inspecting it for whatever reason.
00:24I am going to Shift+Tab my palettes back up on screen and I am going to click
00:28this Triangle in front of the folder called Type Layers and this is a Layer
00:34Group by the way. Now when you click a Triangle, you expand the layer group.
00:38You sometimes hear people call this little triangle a twirly triangle because
00:41we are twirling open the folder. And I have got two text layers that contain
00:44editable text. That's what's meant by that T inside the layer thumbnail.
00:48I am going to turn on the Shine Layer so that we can see these big huge letters
00:54right there and you know just to give myself a little more room to work, I am
00:56going to switch screen modes. So I am going to go up to the Screen Mode icon
01:00up here in the Application bar and I am going to click and I am going to switch
01:03to Full Screen with Menu Bar. So that we have little more room to work inside
01:07of this image.
01:08Then I am going to click on the Shine layer to select it and I want to give
01:12this big huge Shine layer here, this big huge text. I want to give it a scary
01:17glow around the edges, and you do that by going out to this Effects icon down
01:21at the bottom of the Layers palette, clicking and choosing Outer Glow.
01:27Now we are seeing a fair number of options that are associated with this Outer
01:30Glow effect, but they only add up to this tiny little glow around the letters.
01:35Not very threatening at all, I don't think. So let's increase the Size value
01:40like crazy, I am going to take the Size value up to a 100, so that we have this
01:44bright vivid glow coming at us and I am also going to increase the Opacity
01:48value to a 100%. So the letters are glowing in full strength and I am going to
01:52click OK in order to accept that effect.
01:55Now you might look at this and say, Gosh! Deke, you know that's quite the glow
01:59all right and those letters are enormous thus covering up all this hard work
02:03that you have done, you are just completely obliterating the Stanley Hotel on
02:07the background. Aha ha! Not so, because I can go ahead and drop these letters
02:11out using this Fill value right here. I could have actually drop those letters
02:15out entirely, if I took the Fill value down to 0% while leaving the Glow a 100% intact.
02:21But I am going to go ahead and take that Fill value to 40%, so that we can see
02:25a little bit of darkening inside the letters and I also take the Opacity value,
02:29which will affect both the letters and the glow at the same time down to 60%.
02:35So we have got an Opacity value of 60%, a Fill value of 40% looking pretty good.
02:39Now, I want these letters to sort of emerge from these sort of mountainous
02:44crags right here, the rocks in the background. So that we are not affecting the
02:48hotel at all and we can still keep the letters nice and legible. So I am going
02:53to add a Mask to my text and I am going to do that by going down once again to
02:57the bottom of the Layers palette and clicking on this next icon over, which is
03:01the Add a Layer Mask icon and that will add this Mask as you can see. And then
03:06I will go ahead and grab my Brush tool, here from the Tool Box, and I will
03:10increase the Diameter of this Brush to 400 pixels off we have done it big. And
03:14I also make sure that my Foreground color is set to Black, so that I am
03:18painting away portions of the letters.
03:20So I will go ahead and click on this little double arrow icon to make the
03:22Foreground Color Black and then I am going to paint like so in order to expose
03:27those rocks in the hotel and the Foreground. And notice as I do this that I am
03:31exposing the hotel to a certain extent but the glow from the letters is kind of
03:35interrupting things. So in other words, the glow is tracing around these fuzzy
03:39edge that I am painting in the place.
03:41Well, there's a way to solve that problem, I will go back over here to Layers
03:44palette and with this Top Text layer selected I will click on this little icon
03:48in the upper right corner of the Layers palette in order to bring out the
03:51palette menu and then I will choose Blending options, which brings up probably
03:56the most complicated dialog box in all of Photoshop.
03:59Later of course, you will think nothing of it, you will it's a pussy cat, but
04:03now it's a little threatening and I am going to turn on this check box right
04:06there, Layer Mask Hides Effects and that takes care of our problem. It allows
04:09us to mask away both the letters and the effect in one operation. How would you
04:14know that this check box is even here, let alone serves this purpose? Well you
04:18will know that because you are going stick with this series and you are going
04:21to know everything about the software once we are done with it.
04:24All right, I will click OK in order to accept that modification and then I will
04:28scroll over to the right a little bit, so that I can go ahead and paint away
04:33this area as well. All right, this is looking pretty good me and maybe a little
04:37more painting inside of these regions, let's paint up into those rocks there.
04:41All right, grand. Now that I have got one more layer at the bottom of this
04:46group, I will go ahead and turn it on and that adds this layer at the bottom of
04:51the composition.
04:52All right, I am going to press the Tab key in order to hide all of my palettes
04:55and focus in just on the composition itself. This is the final piece of art
05:00work right here. Just to give you a sense of what we have achieved here,
05:04this is the original version of the photograph and this is our final layered
05:09composition. Once you achieve a certain degree of proficiency, there really is
05:14nothing you can't do inside a Photoshop and you will become proficient if you
05:18stick with me over the course of Photoshop CS4 One-on-One.
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2. Open and Organize
The Adobe Bridge
00:01Strange as it may sound, much of our first hands-on look at Photoshop will be
00:05spent inside a completely different application, which goes by the name Bridge.
00:10Included with every copy of Photoshop, whether you bought it alone or as part
00:14of the Creative Suite, the Bridge is a full-blown Digital Asset Manager.
00:19By that, I mean you can review image thumbnails, rotate them, delete them, move
00:24them to different folders, assign star ratings and keywords and group them into
00:29stacks. Inside the revamped Bridge CS4, you can preview an image full screen,
00:35compare images in the Review mode and collect images from different folders
00:39according to search criteria.
00:42If you have just a few dozen images lying around, this may seem like overkill
00:46but if you have a few hundred, a thousand or a hundred thousand, it is an
00:51absolute necessity. Where else can you whip through a folder of images or
00:55illustrations and view scalable, high quality thumbnails or rename a group of
01:00files in a single operation? The Bridge even lets you preview sound and movie
01:05files without the need to open them in a separate program. It is a media
01:09manager's dream and it is your primary method for reviewing images and opening
01:14them in Photoshop. Let us see how it works.
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Opening an image
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to open an image directly inside
00:04Photoshop. Now among the CS4 applications, Photoshop is unusual in that it
00:08does not greet you with a helpful, friendly welcome screen. Instead, the first
00:13time you launch it, it greets you with what you are seeing right now. Just this
00:17empty grayness and that is it.
00:19So a couple of things that you can do. One, you can go up to the File menu and
00:22you can choose the New command or press Ctr+N, Command+N on the Mac, and that
00:26is a pretty common operation. In other applications, it is a very unusual
00:30operation inside of Photoshop because you typically do not create this new
00:34empty file and then start painting inside of it. You can but that is not the
00:39most typical way to work.
00:41I mostly use the new command in order to capture data from the Clipboard, so if
00:45I take a screen-shot for example and then come over to Photoshop and choose the
00:49new command, I will see the dimensions of my screen image, then I will click OK
00:53and then I will Paste that image into the new canvas but if you are just
00:58creating a new image, just so you have a bunch of different presets to choose
01:02from here, so you can choose a common paper size or you can choose a typical
01:06web page size, something along those lines. I do not find any of those to be
01:09super useful but there in case you want to take advantage of them. Then notice
01:13that Photoshop, by default, wants to create an image, say, 7 inches wide, 5
01:17inches tall and a resolution of just 72 pixels per inch. We will be discussing
01:21resolution in more detail through our future chapters of this series but 72 is
01:25really super low and then you can choose your color mode, which could be for
01:30example, RGB, if you are going to make a color image, gray scale, if you just
01:34want to work with the single monochrome image. You can do CMYK for print and so
01:40on. Again, we will be discussing those in more detail in future chapters.
01:43I am just going to go ahead and click OK in order to create a default image and
01:48this is a really dinky image. We are seeing the image at the 100% view size, so
01:53we are seeing the every single pixel inside of this blank image. The fact that
01:57it fits on my screen at this recording resolution, which is just 1027/768, so
02:03it is dinky. The fact that this image fits just goes to show you, you have very
02:07little on way of pixels to work with.
02:09Anyway, as I said, that is not really the common way to work. Just wanted to
02:12show that it is an option. I am going to close this image, either by clicking
02:16in its Close button, here inside of this tab title and I will be discussing the
02:22new Tab window interface in more detail a couple of chapters from now but you
02:26can click this Close box to close the image or you can go up to the File menu
02:29and choose the Close command. You also have keyboard shortcuts. Ctr+W here on
02:33the PC or Command+W on the Mac.
02:36A more common way to work is to open an image that already exists and this
02:40could be an image that you have scanned using a desktop scanner or drum scanner
02:43or what have you, or it could be an image that you captured with a digital
02:47camera. And to open it, you go up to the File menu and choose the Open command
02:51or press Ctr+O, Command+O on the Mac.
02:54Pretty common stuff and then notice that I have gone ahead and given you a
02:59folder of images to Open. Let me just show you where these are and this is for
03:03those of you who are premium members or have access to the DVD, then you can go
03:07on to your Exercise Files folder, go into the folder called O2open organize and
03:11there is a sub-folder called Tom Young and inside of that folder, I will go
03:15ahead and make these thumbnails bigger by switching the large icons here and
03:18this works differently on the two operating systems. I am working under Windows Vista here.
03:23But now I can see fairly large thumbnails of each one of these images from
03:28photographer Tom Young of www. iStockPhoto.com and I am going to go ahead and
03:32open this first one alphabetically anyway. Beautifuleyes.jpg. And then I will
03:37click the Open button in order to open that image inside of a new window and we
03:42can see the title of the image up here in this tab and we can also see the Zoom
03:47Ratio, which is 33%, meaning that we are zoomed out far enough to take in the
03:51entire image on screen at a glance.
03:54That is the basics of opening an image inside Photoshop. In the next exercise,
03:59I am going to show you to open multiple images at a time.
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Opening multiple images
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to open multiple images at a time,
00:04either inside of a tabbed window or inside independent windows, if you
00:09prefer. I am going to go up to the File menu and choose the Open command or
00:13press Ctrl+O, Command+O on the Mac, in order to bring up the open dialog box.
00:18I have already navigated my way into the Tom Young folder, so named after the photographer of these images.
00:25Now first of all, note that I am seeing these images as thumbnails, these large
00:30thumbnails and I can switch to thumbnails over here on the PC by choosing large
00:35icons. Also on the Mac, you have a trio of icons up toward the top left corner
00:41of the dialog box and if you click on the first of the three, you will switch
00:45to the thumbnail this way. Now, I am going to click on Beautiful eyes and then
00:49Shift-click on Young couple and if I do that I select all four of these images.
00:55So by Shift clicking, I select a range of images and then you click on the Open
00:59button in order to open all four of them.
01:02Another way to work is to select not adjacent images. So I will click off of
01:06the thumbnails in order to deselect them, then I could click on California
01:10coastline and Ctrl click on Young couple. If I was on the Mac, I would press
01:15the Command key and click on Young couple and then I will select those two
01:19images independently of the other two. So Ctrl or Command-click for
01:23non-adjacent images. One other way to work, I will click off these images. You
01:27can also marquee just by dragging from an empty portion of the preview area and
01:32any of the images that fall inside of this marquee will become selected. Then,
01:37I am going to click on the Open button in order to open all four of the images
01:41inside of this folder and you can see that all four of them are now open and
01:46represented by separated tabs at the top of the image window and if I wanted to
01:51switch to any one of the images, I will just click on it's tab like so.
01:55Now, you may prefer not to work in the tabbed window interface and if you
02:00prefer to work old school as in Photoshop CS3 in earlier in independent window,
02:05so let me show you how to pull that off. I am going up to the File menu and
02:08choose Close All, or I could press that keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Alt+W,
02:12Command+Option+W on the Mac to close all the open images. Then, I will go to
02:17the Edit menu. Those of you who are working on the Mac, you would go to the
02:20Photoshop menu, then choose the Preferences command, it's not this far down the
02:25list on the Mac, it's much closer to the top of the menu and then choose this
02:29guy right there, Interface, from the sub-menu and notice this option right
02:34there, Open Documents as Tabs. If you turn that off and then click OK, then go
02:40back to the File menu, choose Open once again and then once again grab all four
02:45of these images and click on the Open button, then you will see each one of the
02:49images in an independent image window, like so.
02:54Now, if at any time, you decide you want to switch back to having all of these
02:57images inside of the same window, so that each image gets its own tab, then you
03:03can go up here to the Application bar and this Application bar is new to
03:07Photoshop CS4. On the Mac it's located underneath the menu bar; on a PC it's
03:12located to the right of the menu bar. I will go ahead and click on Arrange
03:16Documents and then I will click on this icon right there, Consolidate All and
03:20all the images are restored to tabs here inside of a single window. Now, if
03:26that's the way you prefer to work and that's the way I prefer to work, make
03:29sure to go back to Preferences and turn that check box on again and this time I
03:34am going to do it from the keyboard. I am going to show you how to get to that
03:36Preferences panel from the keyboard here. Press Ctrl+k or Command+K on the Mac
03:42to bring up the Preferences dialog box. Now Ctrl+K or Command+K as a keyboard
03:46shortcut may not make a lot of sense at first, but here is the good news. It
03:50works across all of the Adobe applications.
03:53So learn it inside a Photoshop, you know it inside the other apps as well. Now
03:57I can click on Interface, inside of this list right there, in order to switch
04:00to the Interface panel or I will go back to General. I could press Ctrl+2 or
04:06Command+2 on the Mac because you can switch between each one of these by
04:09pressing Ctrl or Command along with a number. So Ctrl or Command+1 for General,
04:142 for Interface, 3 for File Handing and so on. All right, now I will turn back
04:19on Open Documents as Tabs. I will click OK and now in the future when I open
04:24an image, it will appear as a tab inside of this new tabbed window interface.
04:30That's how you open multiple images using the Open command here inside Photoshop.
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Adding file information
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to annotate an image by adding
00:03File Info. Now this may seem like sort of a tacky topic, something that we are
00:08getting into a little too early but it's a really great idea to do it early.
00:14When your are shooting your photographs, there is always the chance that they
00:17are going to get out of there in to the larger world, whether you push them out
00:21there by posting them to say Flicker or some other file sharing site or whether
00:26you just email them to friends and you send them off to clients in any of those
00:30cases, they are liable to get into other people's hands and when they do, you
00:35want those people to know where your image came from. So that if these are
00:40people of good will, they can get in touch with you to ask your permission to
00:43use your photographs and so on and here is how that works.
00:46Notice that I have all four of those images from Tom Young open on screen here,
00:52and I have actually taken the time to annotate these images. I am going to
00:55switch over to Young couple.jpg here and I am going up to the File menu and I
01:01am going to choose this command right there, File Info, which has a big
01:04keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+shift+Alt+I/ Command+Shift+Option+I. So regardless of
01:10platform you just kind of match your fist down on the lower left corner of the
01:13keyboard and then you press the I key for Info and I have to admit that I am
01:17actually responsible for this keyboard shortcut, because I petitioned Adobe to
01:22make a keyboard shortcut for this command. That's a little involved, but it
01:25makes sense I think, and it brings up this lopping big File Info dialog box. It
01:30has multiple panels as you can see right here and you can find out for example
01:33but clicking on Camera Data, you can find out what kind of camera was used to
01:37capture this image. It's SONY, DSC+R1, for example and the Aperture and all
01:43sorts of additional information, we can find out at the Flash Fired, so there
01:47is just tons and tons information here that can be garnered inside of this File
01:53Info dialog box. We want to stick here inside of Description because that's
01:57where we can add Copyright and Author information. And you can see that I have
02:02gone ahead and said that the File Number because this file comes from the
02:07iStockPhoto.com image library.
02:09I have gone ahead and added the File Number, I have gone ahead and credited the
02:12Author, I have gone ahead and included his original description of the image. I
02:17have marked the images Copyrighted. Notice that, you can click on this option
02:21right here and choose Copyrighted from this pop up menu. Now by default its set
02:25to Unknown. You would want to presumably go ahead and mark your Copyrighted.
02:29And to enter a Copyright symbol like we have right there, let me move back up.
02:34In order to enter that little Copyright symbol on the Mac, all you have to do
02:38is press Option+G. Option+G for the copyright symbol. Why it's option G, I
02:45don't know, but it is. On the PC it's a little more complicated. So you need a
02:50keyboard that has a keypad, a numerical keypad on the right side of the
02:53keyboard. Then you need to press and hold the Alt key, so press that key, keep
02:58it down and dial in this sequence of numbers on the keypad. So don't press all
03:03the keys at once, dial in this sequence. So you dial in 0169 has to be on a
03:10keypad and then release the Alt key. So once again, in case that was little
03:15difficult to track. Press and hold Alt+ 0169 on the keypad and then release the
03:22Alt key. So I am going to go ahead and delete those extra copyright symbols.
03:26I have also gone ahead and included a URL. That is a web address and this is
03:31this fellow's handle, GreenPimp in iStockPhoto.com, so that will take you to
03:36the Tom Green's landing page. If you go ahead and click on Go to URL, so you
03:40really make it convenient for people to look you up, if you include your web
03:45address. All right, now I have one image. I will go ahead and move this all the
03:49way here. I have got one image, Beautiful eyes that I haven't fully annotated.
03:53All the other ones are completely annotated, Beautiful eyes is not and I could
03:57go ahead and reenter all this information if I wanted to or I could save off a
04:02template and that's what I am going to do. I am going to go down to his option,
04:06it's not super intuitive, but it allows you to go ahead and save off all of the
04:10File Info for a specific photographer for example. You click on this down
04:15pointing arrow ahead, don't click on the word Import, click on the down
04:18pointing arrow ahead and choose Export and then I am going to go ahead and
04:22Export this information and allow it to go to where the Photoshop thinks it
04:27should be. Inside of this Metadata Templates folder that inside this XMP
04:30folder, etcetera. Don't care about that. That's up to Photoshop.
04:34I am just going to go ahead and call this GreenPimp and that may seem like an
04:38odd choice but that's his choice. That's his handle that iStockPhoto.com and as
04:43an art director that's how I keep track of these photographers. All right, so I
04:46will go ahead and call it that, then click Save and now I will click Cancel
04:51because I didn't really do anything inside this dialog box. Then I will switch
04:54over to Beautiful eyes.jpg by clicking on it's tab. Let's go back up to the
04:59File menu, choose the File Info command and notice that I have gone ahead and
05:04included the Document title, because this image has a unique file number and I
05:08have also included the unique description for this image but otherwise I
05:12haven't included any annotations, including the Copyright Status is still set
05:16to Unknown.
05:18All right, now I will go over here to this option and I will click on the
05:21down-pointing arrowhead and I could choose and then locate a file and open it
05:24up. Or notice that I have got GreenPimp on my list now. All I have to do is
05:29click on it. Now Photoshop is going to ask me hey, I went ahead and saved
05:34Document Title Info and Description Info, this is Photoshop saying I did this.
05:38What do you want to do about this? Do you want to overwrite this information or
05:41you want to Keep the original metadata, but append matching properties from
05:45template and that's what I want to go ahead and do. So I am going to keep what
05:48I got and then just fill in the stuff I am missing and I will click OK and sure
05:52enough Brunette Looking because she is looking at us, I guess. Brunette Looking
05:57is still retained. The unique File Number is retained but now I also have the
06:01Author, the Copyright Status, the Copyright Notice and the URL and I will go
06:06ahead and click OK in order to update this image and that's how you assign File
06:11Info to your images including copyright, authorship and URL information here
06:17inside Photoshop.
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Introducing Bridge
00:00Now it's all very well and good to open images directly from inside Photoshop
00:04as we have done with these four images from photographer Tom Young. However
00:09it's just as likely and I dare to say even more likely in fact that you will be
00:13opening images from a separate application that ships along with Photoshop
00:17known as the Adobe Bridge. The Bridge ships with all versions of Photoshop.
00:21Whether you buy Photoshop alone or as part of one of the created suites you
00:24still get the Bridge is what's known as a Digital Asset Manager or DAM, which
00:31is of course the initials DAM, Digital Asset Manager. And what that means at
00:35least in the case of the Bridge is that you can preview the contents of an
00:39entire folder.
00:40You can see all of the photographs in that folder. You can see
00:42all the illustrations, all of the InDesign files. All your PDF files, you can
00:46see Flash content, you can see Dreamweaver content, you can even see and
00:50preview movies inside of the Bridge. And then if you double click on one of
00:54those items you will open it up in its respective applications. So if you
00:57double click on an image for example you will open it up inside Photoshop. But
01:01you can also organize those assets, as we will see. So the Bridge is so
01:06important to working with Photoshop. I mean we really haven't seen how to work
01:09with Photoshop yet and yet I am going to show you how to work in a Bridge for
01:12the remainder of this chapter.
01:15So to get to the Bridge you go on to the File menu and you
01:18choose this command right there Browse and Bridge so called because back in
01:23Photoshop seven in CS there used to be as part of Photoshop. There used to be
01:28this thing called the File Browser. And it ended up spinning off into the
01:32Bridge in Photoshop CS2 and it's remained in an independent application ever
01:37since. And it just keeps getting better and better. You can also press
01:40Ctrl+Alt+O or Command+Option+O on the Mac. Or you have got this little icon up
01:45here in the applications part that will also launch the Bridge, if you prefer.
01:48All right, so however you decide to do it go ahead and open up
01:52that Bridge and if the Bridge wasn't already running it will take a moment or
01:56two to start up. And then you will end up seeing either the contents of your
02:00desktop or your computer something along these lines. So if you are not seeing
02:04the folders, definitely go ahead and switch over to it by clicking on this
02:07folders tab right there. Then assuming that you have access to My Sample Files
02:11and that you Copy them to your desktop you will click this triangle over here
02:15to twirl open the desktop like so.
02:18And that desktop represents the files and folders that you have
02:21placed on to the desktop of your computer. And then somewhere you should have
02:25those exercise files. You can go ahead and click that triangle to twirl the
02:28exercise files open or if you prefer to expand that folder. And then I am going
02:33to go ahead and click on this side right there, O2 Open Organize, in order to
02:38see the contents of this folder, which is a pretty ad hoc collection, and you
02:42will see all of these thumbnails inside of the Content panel right here. Just a
02:48random bunch of junk that I am sharing with you. We have a few additional sub
02:53folders as well and I am not implying for a second that this is the way you
02:56organize your files or that you should organize your files this way.
02:59I have just gone ahead and assembled a collection of files in
03:02what appears to be a fairly random way here in the interest of best
03:06demonstrating how the Bridge works.
03:08All right so there's your very first look at the Bridge. In the next exercise I
03:12will take you on a little tour and show you what some of these icons mean and
03:16so on, so that you have an idea of how the program works. Stay tuned.
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A whirlwind tour of Bridge CS4
00:00In this exercise, I am going take you on the whirlwind tour of the Bridge and
00:04it's going to go by fairly fast. But don't worry, we will revisit the most
00:08important options in more detail in future exercises. Now, I want to make it
00:13clear the Bridge is a fully functioning independent application. It has a lot
00:17of stuff going on inside of it. I don't want to pretend for a moment that I am
00:20going to explain every single nook and cranny of this application. I am just
00:24going to cover the stuff that you need to know in order to make the most
00:27effective use of Photoshop, which turns out to be most of the program but not
00:31quite all of it. All right so here I am working inside the Adobe Bridge and I
00:36have got the O2 open organized folder targeted here inside the exercise files
00:42folder, which is on the desktop. And you can see that entire path right here in
00:46Path Bar and if you can't see the Path Bar go to the Window menu and make sure
00:50pat bar is turned on.
00:52Because the Path Bar is a really useful part of the program. For example if I
00:56double click on Ton Young in order to see the Contents of that folder
01:01represented this tiny thumbnails here. Then I can go back to open organize just
01:05by clicking on it like so. Or I can click on exercise files folder to go back
01:09yet another step. And then, I could go up to this icon right there, which
01:13allows me to visit the most recent items. The most recent files and folders and
01:18you can tell what's it is going to do because it has a tiny clock in the icon.
01:22If I click on it then I can go ahead and choose open and organize to revisit
01:26that folder and I can see several other folders that I visited as well. I can
01:30also see any files that I have opened up recently and in my case since we
01:35rebuilt the systems here the only files that I have opened are these guys right
01:40there. These hand full of files and we have opened them inside a Photoshop. We
01:44just saw that in fact a couple of exercises ago. All right so I am going to
01:48switch back to the O2 open organize folder and by the way if you don't want to
01:53be plagued by your recent whereabouts or somebody else's recent whereabouts for
01:57that matter, you can clear the recent files and you can also clear the list of
02:01recent folders. So that's an option as well. And if you choose Reveal All
02:05Recent Files you will see all your recent files inside of a kind of a virtual folder.
02:10All right, these guys allow you to go back and forward through recently visited
02:16folders. This one right here allows you to go to parent folder so you can see I
02:20could go to exercise files on the desktop as well as Favorites, we will discuss
02:24Favorites later. And if you want to get images from a digital camera you can
02:28click on this icon and that will bring up the photo downloader utility, which
02:34allows you to copy images from say a memory card that you have loaded into a
02:40media reader. This icon right there Refine allows you to choose from a few
02:44different commands that allow you to Review Images and Modify their File Names
02:49and Access File Info. That same File Info command that we saw couple of
02:52exercises ago. You can get to here inside of the Bridge as well. This icon
02:58allows you to open any image inside of Camera Raw.
03:01So either an image captured in your digital Camera Raw file format or a jpeg or
03:05tiff image. And we will be discussing Camera Raw at length. I devoted an entire
03:10chapter to the topic in the later Photoshop CS4 One on One series and it's one of the
03:16best parts of Photoshop, actually it's really great feature.
03:19And then we have got these output controls that allow you to output images to
03:23the web or PDF. And we will be seeing these functions in a later chapter as
03:26well. These guys right here are your Work Spaces and I will show you Work
03:32Spaces in a later exercise. But they allow you to change which panels are you
03:35seeing on screen at any given time and yes in the Bridge, I do call these
03:40panels because they are not free floating. They can't float freely the way they
03:43can in Photoshop. This option allows you to search for files inside of the
03:48current folder and its sub folders. This is a Compact mode icon. If you will
03:53click on it, you will switch to a compact version of Photoshop, which is great
03:57for dragging images into for example InDesign and other applications that
04:02support drag and droppable images. And then once you are done doing that you
04:06can click on this icon again to switch back to the Standard mode and this icon
04:11has a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+Enter on the PC or Command+Return on the Mac.
04:17And yes, I realized, I am reviewing these very quickly. But as I said we will
04:21revisit the most important stuff in later exercises.
04:24This icon right there allows you to change the quality of the thumbnail
04:28previews here inside the Content panel. Unless things are
04:32going really, really slowly for you, leave this set to always high quality.
04:36This next option allows you to filter the images that you see inside the
04:40Content panel according to their star ratings. Then we have the Sort controls.
04:44You can sort the images by file name or any of several other criteria. And this
04:50guy will change who's on top.
04:52So basically right now we are seeing the images in alphabetical order. If you
04:55want to see them in reverse alpha order then you will change this from
04:59Ascending Order to Descending Order, as I have done here.
05:02All right I am going to change it back to the way it was. These icons allow you
05:05to rotate images that are on their sides. This guy here allows you yet another
05:10means for opening recent images. So I could go ahead and choose one of these
05:14images to open it up inside a Photoshop. This option allows you to create a new
05:18sub folder inside the active folder here. And then this icon allows you to
05:23delete the selected item. Now I don't have anything selected at this point. So
05:26many of these options are deemed. If I click on a thumbnail here inside the
05:30Content panel then Open a Camera Raw becomes active, the Rotate option become
05:35active, the Trash Can icon becomes active an so on. All right so this folder
05:40panel right there shows you all the sub folders that are located inside the
05:43active folder.
05:44I call this the folder tree because we are seeing how the folders branch out
05:49.You also have the filtering collection panels down here that I will visit in
05:53greater detail later. But Filter allows you to determine exactly, which images
05:58you are seeing inside a Content panel selections allows you to create your own
06:01custom collections that are outside of the folder structure. If you want to
06:06make one of the panels bigger or smaller you can drag on these divider line. So
06:11I am dragging the vertical divider line over to the left in order to expand the
06:15Content panel and smoosh these panels a little bit. They have more than enough
06:18room. You can also change the height of the panel by dragging one of these
06:22horizontal dividers. I am going to move this one over as well so again we have
06:27more room for the Content panel. Here is my preview, which shows me an enlarged
06:30preview of the active thumbnail. Metadata shows me all the extra data beyond
06:35the pixels inside the image. Extremely useful as you will see. And then
06:39Keywords you can assign Keywords to serve as additional search criteria. And if
06:45that wasn't a whirlwind tour I don't know what it was. We will revisit the most
06:50important items as I say in future exercises. That's just gives you a sense of
06:54what's going on here inside the Bridge. In the next exercise, I am going to show
06:58you how to customize the display and how to manage your thumbnails here inside
07:04the Content panel.
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Adjusting the interface and thumbnails
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to get comfortable inside the
00:03Bridge by customizing the interface ever so slightly. It's not like we are
00:07going to attack the program, we are just kind of make a few tweaks here and
00:10there. Starting with these thumbnails, they are just so damn dinky, and when I
00:15say DAM, you know I mean Digital Asset Manager, dinky.
00:19So I want to make them bigger and you can make the thumbnails bigger by
00:22dropping down to the slider bar here and dragging this control over to the
00:27right and notice that as you drag the control back and forth, the thumbnails
00:31get incrementally bigger or smaller, and then if they get too big, for example,
00:36three thumbnails to set a browse, then we will drop down to two thumbnails, two
00:40columns of thumbnails.
00:42Compare that to, if you turn this guy on, this lock thumbnail grid, if you turn
00:47on that control then you jump suddenly between various displays like we are
00:51seeing here. So you don't get that incremental increase in the thumbnail size.
00:55You are just actually just dropping down very rapidly from one size to another
00:59and if you like that then turn it on, if you don't then turn it off. It depends
01:03on you how much structure you want and I am going to go ahead and give myself
01:06little more room for the thumbnails here by dragging this right hand divider line over.
01:11Another thing you can do is press Ctrl+ Plus in order to zoom in or Ctrl+Minus
01:16to zoom out. That's Command+Plus and Minus on the Mac and here's just a
01:21delightful one in my opinion. You can use your scroll wheel, the scroll wheel
01:24on your mouse if you have one in order to scroll down the list or in order to
01:28scroll up the list and the Bridge is pretty smart about this kind of stuff. If
01:32you move your cursor over to the Folders panel and you scroll down or you
01:36scroll up, notice that you will scroll the contents of the Folders panel. Then
01:39if you move your cursor in the contents, you can scroll down and up to scroll
01:43it instead, so that's great. That's just the way it ought to be.
01:46You can also, however, use the scroll wheel to magnify the thumbnails so if you
01:50press the Ctrl key and scroll up then you are going to make the thumbnails
01:54bigger and that would be Command + Scroll up on the Mac. If you press the Ctrl
01:58key and scroll down then you will make the thumbnail smaller and that's the
02:02Command+Scroll down on the Mac. Anyway I think thumbnails of about this size
02:07serves my purpose pretty nicely.
02:09Now then there is also two other displays that are available to you where the
02:13Content panel is concerned and they are available down here in the bottom,
02:16bottom right hand corner of the Bridge window. You can view the content as
02:21details like so, so I click this middle icon right there, which is great if you
02:26want to be able to see the Metadata that's associated with your images, so you
02:30are now going to see very many images at a time, but you are going to see a lot
02:32of detail associated with those images and then we have the List View right
02:36here, which allows you to see the files in the standard list view like here,
02:40you use to see in them on computer's desktop. All right, I am going to switch
02:43back however to the Thumbnail View because that's the one I prefer.
02:46Now you can modify things further. I am going to go up to the Edit menu and I
02:52am going to choose the Preferences Command. On the Mac, you would go up to the
02:55Bridge menu and choose the Preferences Command, either way you have got a
02:59keyboard shortcut Ctrl+K on the PC or Command K on the Mac, brings up the
03:04General panel of the Preferences dialog box here.
03:07So notice the first two options, this is the Interface Brightness and the Image
03:12Backdrops, so you can make the backdrop behind the images here inside the
03:16Content panel as well as inside the Preview panel darker by dragging this
03:21slider control to the left and I think about here it works pretty nicely for me
03:25anyway, you could also make the interface darker and I don't like it the way it
03:29is. I don't' like it this light because I think it competes with the images too
03:32much, so I like to darken it up and I am going to take it down sufficiently
03:36dark that the text goes ahead and reverses out and then changes like we are
03:40seeing it here.
03:41I like this better, again I think it makes for a better light box when we
03:45trying to view our images and decide, which ones are good, which ones aren't so
03:49good and so on and then finally you can change the Accent Color. Currently it's
03:53this flat, yellow and you can change it to something like Crystal, which is
03:59going to make it silvery and again this way we are not going to be competing
04:04with the images so much because we are going to lose that color ingredient. I
04:08wish we could also lose the color of the folders, but that's not an option.
04:13One another thing I recommend you change, I am going to actually click OK for a
04:16moment so I can show you this one, so I'll accept my changes there. Notice if I
04:20move my cursor into the Preview panel, of course, my preview is very dinky and
04:25I have got this little magnifying glass. So if I click, you get what's known as
04:30the loupe, which is this tiny area of magnification here and you can drag it to
04:34a different location in order to see that area magnified and the idea behind
04:39the loupe is not that it's going to zoom in on the entire image or anything
04:42along this lines, but rather that it's going to allow you to evaluate areas of
04:47focus, inside of your image.
04:49So you can see if the proper portion of your image is focused in the first
04:53place, thing is it is so small as to be virtually useless in my opinion. Now
04:59you may choose to disagree and if so great, me, I agree with me. I am going to
05:04go ahead and close this loupe by clicking on a little close box, let's close
05:08this tiny little close box right there, I am covering up with my gigantic hand,
05:11so it's right down there or you can just click inside the loupe again to get rid
05:14of it, but I just hate the fact that you can accidentally loupe things, so I
05:18prefer to be more deliberate. I am going to press Ctrl+K or Command+K to
05:23re-display the Preferences dialog box, so it's same is choosing the Preferences
05:26command from either the Edit or Photoshop menu.
05:29Okay I am going to turn on this checked box, Ctrl-click opens a loupe when
05:33previewing or reviewing, on the Mac that's going to say Command-click and that
05:36way you still have access to the option and you just won't find yourself doing
05:39it accidentally. Something else I want to do, I am going to switch over to
05:42thumbnails here and I want to show some additional items, currently we are just
05:47seeing the file name below the thumbnail.
05:50I also want to see the dimensions of the image, you notice as soon as I turn it
05:54on I can see those dimensions in the background and I want to see yet another
05:57option here right now it's Date Created. That's what it is by default but
06:01instead of seeing Date Created, I want to see Author. So I will go ahead and
06:04change it to that. Now author sometimes is going to be blank if you haven't
06:08assign in author inside the file and for dialog box, then that area is going to
06:12be blank, but for those places where I have assigned an author I will be able
06:15to see them.
06:16You can also turn on Tool Tips, which will show you a big tip, essentially a
06:21big hint that contains all sorts of information about that file when you hover
06:25over the file. But I find that really, really gets in a way so I don't
06:28recommend it. And now I am going to click OK in order to accept my
06:32modifications and now if I scroll down my list to these Johanne images here, I
06:37can see that they were shot by this fellow named Pascal Genest, once again of
06:41iStockPhoto.com, and one more thing I want to show you.
06:44Currently we are seeing the contents of the O2_open_organize folder that's
06:49inside the Exercise Files folder and then we see the Subfolders just
06:53represented as additional folders here, but we are not seeing into the
06:57subfolders. If you want to see into those subfolders, so you want to see all of
07:01the contents of this folder and its subfolder, go up to the View menu and
07:05choose Show Items in Subfolders and now you will dig all the way into the
07:10folder structure here and all these images that I am scrolling through here are
07:14inside of subfolders and towards the bottom you can see that Welcome to Vegas
07:18has an author Tom Young and so this Young Couple, so once again we are seeing
07:22the author information as well.
07:25So many different ways to work inside of the Bridge. I am going to go ahead and
07:29switch back to the previous view where I was only seeing the items inside of this
07:34folder so I will turn on Show Items from Subfolders off and we are left with
07:39these. Again, these are just options that are available to you. I want you to
07:44set up the Bridge the way that is most comfortable for you.
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Full-screen preview and rotating
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to preview your images in greater
00:04detail and also rotate images that are on their sides. Now I am still looking
00:09at the contents of the 02_open_ organize folder inside of the Exercise Files
00:13folder and in the previous exercise I was telling you how I don't really like
00:17that loupe function that allows you to magnify a certain area of an image and
00:22I went ahead and kind of turned it off. I made it so it's a more deliberate action.
00:26I now have to press the Ctrl key or the Command key and click inside of the
00:32preview panel in order to see in a large detail, but there are some things that
00:37are fairly nifty about the loupe. It always magnifying the area that this little
00:43thing points to, so if you move it to different location you are going to get a
00:47different area of magnification. If you drag it over too far, it's going to
00:51automatically rotate to compensate like we just saw there.
00:54You can also press the Plus key in order to zoom in on an area or the Minus key
01:00to zoom out or you can use your scroll wheel to zoom in and out, if you prefer,
01:04and you can see the amount of magnification right down there, next to the file
01:09name. So currently the loupe is magnified to 200%, but I still hate the
01:12function. That's just me, I just don't like it and I will show you why because
01:16there is much better ways to work.
01:18Instead of getting that dinky little loupe, you can go up to the View menu and
01:22you can choose this Command, Full Screen Preview, which is new to the Bridge in
01:26CS4 and notice that it has a keyboard shortcut of Space, so you just have to
01:30tab the Spacebar and you get this massive preview of your image. I mean that's
01:36awesome. That's much more useful than a loupe and if you want to see the preview
01:41at a 100% you just click inside of it and that will give you a 100% view of
01:45your image, meaning that we are seeing one image pixel for every screen pixel
01:50and then if you want to pan to a different location inside of the image you
01:53just drag like so.
01:55Now you are going to notice that the image is little fuzzy as you drag it, as
01:59soon as you release the Bridge goes ahead and shows you the image in full
02:02clarity. All of these features, these high detail features are going to work
02:07better if you let the Bridge go ahead and render up the thumbnails before you
02:12start working too much inside of a folder and I will go ahead and escape out of
02:17this view for a moment by pressing the Escape key.
02:20Down here in the lower left corner of the window, when you first arrive inside
02:24of a folder you will see all kinds of activity down here. You will see this
02:26little sort of rotating items that's showing you that the Bridge is generating
02:31thumbnails. In my experience, the best thing to do when you see that happening
02:35is wait it out, just go work inside of a different application for a few
02:39seconds often times. In most even if you have you know several 100 images
02:43inside of a folder, it's going to take maybe a minute and then you can come
02:47back here and work without a lot of delays.
02:50So again if I want to display an image in greater detail, I just go ahead and
02:56click inside of that image like so, actually I want to click inside this one
02:59right here and then press the Spacebar in order to see the full screen preview,
03:04click inside the image in order to see the 100% view, drag the image around in
03:10order to see a different detail inside of that image and you can also take
03:15advantage of those tricks, I just showed a moment ago with the loupe.
03:17So you can press the Plus key to zoom to 200%, see it tells you, press Plus
03:21again for 400% all the way up to 800% by the way and that's good for evaluating
03:27noise and just general sort of bad stuff inside of the image and you can also
03:32zoom out by pressing the Minus key or you can use your scroll wheel on your
03:36mouse and you can even go all the way out so that the image fits on screen as
03:41it does here and when we are done examining the image, just go ahead and press
03:44the Escape key in order to return to the Bridge. All right, so that's a
03:48fantastic thing in my opinion.
03:50Now what do we do about images that are on their size like this guy down here.
03:54So I will scroll down to the image called L1030713 and in case you are
03:58wondering where I got this image's name from, these are all names that were
04:02captured by the cameras themselves. So I am using a variety of cameras here and
04:06these images were shot over a very long period of time.
04:09So I have got two views of these towers and for some reason my camera, which
04:13happens in this case to be like a Deluxe 3. It got it right on the rotation of
04:19this tower, but on the next tower over it got it wrong. By the way in addition
04:23to clicking of thumbnails, you can just press the arrow keys in order to
04:27advance from one thumbnail to the next and it works just like you think it
04:30would, left arrow takes you left, up arrow takes you up and so on.
04:33All right so this one, the camera didn't rotate automatically so we are going
04:37to have to do it manually using either of these icons up here in the upper
04:42right hand corner of the window. So in my case I want to rotate this image 90
04:47degrees clockwise, like so. You can also rotate an image from the keyboard by
04:52pressing Ctrl or Command on the Mac along with a square bracket key. Those
04:57bracket keys just to the right of the P as on pull key on American keyboard. So
05:02Ctrl+Left Bracket rotates the image counter clockwise, Ctrl+Right Bracket
05:06rotates the image clockwise.
05:09And just to confirm that the image has been rotated, I am going to go over here
05:13to the Metadata panel and if I am not seeing it I could just click on its tab
05:17in order to bring it up or if you are just missing a panel, in general, you can
05:20go up to the Window menu and choose one of these panel commands.
05:23All right, I am going to go ahead and press the Escape key there. I want to be
05:27able to see a setting here in the Camera Data, the EXIF data as it's called,
05:33which is the information that the camera recorded at the moment you shot the
05:37photo, but we are not seeing Orientation, which is something I do want to see.
05:40So I am going to go over here to this little icon right there and click on it
05:44and that brings up the panels flyout menu and I am going to choose Preferences
05:48and that brings up the Metadata panel of the larger preferences dialog box and
05:52I am going to go ahead and tour close IPTC and IPTC Core just to make my life
05:58easier, it doesn't actually close any of the settings here inside of the
06:01Metadata panel, but I just want to make quicker progress down this list and
06:05then I will scroll down through this EXIF data, notice that I am looking at
06:09Camera Data EXIF and somewhere in this list, there it is right there, I should
06:13see Orientation and I will go ahead and turn it on. So it's just above EXIF
06:17Color Space and below Metering mode and I will click OK.
06:21Now I can see that this image was rotate at 90 degree so the image before it
06:25has a rotation of normal because a camera took care of this one, but since the
06:29camera didn't take care of this one, I had to rotate it and I can see it's
06:33rotating at 90 degree. So the beautiful thing is this rotation information has
06:37been saved to the image so it's now part of the image. So if I were to open
06:42this image up in Photoshop or any other application that can read this certain
06:46brand of Camera Data then it will come in upright.
06:50All right just one more thing to notice about rotation; I am going to scroll
06:55down here to this little toys and notice that I do have a couple of images on
06:59their size here so I am going to go ahead and click on this image right there,
07:03which is P329073, fine and then I will press the Spacebar in order to switch to
07:09that full screen preview mode and then I will press the right arrow key to
07:14advance to the next image. That's something you can do in this mode. So you can
07:17switch images. This guy is on his side. This time around, I don't have to press
07:21Ctrl or Command. I can just press this square bracket key by itself. So I will
07:25press the right bracket key, like goes a hand rotates the image. Then I will
07:29press the right arrow key, this is guy looks fine. Right arrow key again. Ah!
07:33He is on his side and so I press the right bracket key in order to rotate him
07:37and so on and so on and so on.
07:41That's how you preview images at full size and of course, you can zoom into
07:46them in order to take in more detail and how you rotate images that are on
07:50their sides, here inside the Bridge.
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Ratings and labels
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to Ratings and Labels inside of
00:04the Bridge, which allow you to separate the wheat from the chaff. In other
00:08words, you go ahead and open up the folder that contains a day's shoot of several
00:11100 photographs, let's say, and you now need to go through all those photos and
00:16decide, which ones demand more of your attention and, which ones you are just
00:19going rule out, right off of the bat.
00:21You can do that using Ratings and to a lesser extent Labels, so it depends how
00:25you want to work. I still have the Bridge directed on the contents of the
00:2902_open_organize folder here inside of the Exercise Files folder. I am looking
00:33at these little geo-tracks toy images here. If I want it to assign a star
00:38rating to this first one, which is the control center for the trains, these
00:41guys actually make the trains go, then I could go up to the Label menu right
00:45here and I could choose one of these commands and notice that we have, for the
00:49star ratings we have Control 1 for one star, Control 2 for 2 star and so on,
00:54you can also decrease the rating or increase the rating if you care to take
00:57advantage of those keyboard shortcuts, you may. To assign No Rating is Ctrl+0
01:02on the PC, Command+0 on the Mac.
01:04You can also reject an image, which means that under certain circumstances, it
01:08will be hidden and you can control whether you see a rejected image or not from
01:11the View menu, but the way I like to work when I am working with thumbnails, I
01:15should say, the way I like to work is to just click on one of these little dots
01:20here. Notice these five dots; these are basically incipient star ratings. So if
01:24I like this image I could go ahead and give it a one star rating, not meaning
01:28that it's only one out of five stars, but meaning that I am beginning to
01:31evaluate it; at least it falls in the star rating group as opposed to not
01:35deserving a star at all.
01:37Now if you want to later assign a higher rating then you would just click on
01:40one of these dots to do it or you can click over here to the left of the first
01:46star in order to get these ghost busters icon right there and then you release
01:50and then you have no star rating like so and I am going to go ahead and give
01:53this guy 3 stars. I am just being completely arbitrary at this point. I am not
01:57offering any advice in terms of digital asset management. I am just showing you
02:02how the tools work.
02:03But let's say you want to be able to see the star ratings here inside the
02:07Metadata panel then you could go over to this icon in the upper right corner of
02:11the panel, click on it to bring up the panels flyout menu, choose the
02:14Preferences command, scroll to the top of the list, and then under File
02:20Properties, you can turn on Label and Rating, and then click OK and you will
02:25now see if I scroll up here, you will now see that I have assigned a 3 star
02:29rating to this image.
02:30All right I am going to go ahead and scroll down a little bit here then I could
02:33go to this guy and say you know he gets a one star and this guy, he gets a 4
02:36star, what have you, even better, is to work in that full screen preview mode
02:41that I showed you in the previous exercise, so I will go ahead and press the
02:44Spacebar in order to enter the full screen preview mode and then what I am in
02:49this mode, let's say I press the down arrow key to go to the next image, I
02:52think oh! My gosh, that image looks great. I will go ahead and give it a 5 star
02:56rating, let's say, then I would just have to hit the 5 key and notice that this
03:00little rating item jumps up in the lower left corner of the window, so that's 5
03:05for a 5 star.
03:06If I decide I want a 3 star, I press the 3 key. If I decide I don't want any
03:10stars, I press the 0 key, but I like this image so I am going to say 5 and then
03:14I press the down arrow key for the next image, no I don't worry about that one,
03:17that guy, just give that a 3 star rating by pressing the 3 key, then I go down
03:22to this image, 4 stars for sure, press down arrow that one looks great to me, I
03:27like all of them actually. Press down arrow. Okay, that's a 5 star image if
03:32there was one. This thing taking coal out of a cave, awesome and so on. So I
03:37could do this all to, oh! There is my 5 star image, gosh! I love that image.
03:41All right and then when you are done, you just go ahead and press the Esc key
03:45to escape out.
03:46Now what about Labels inside of the Bridge? Well, labels serve different
03:51purposes. They are designed for basically when you are working in a group
03:55environment and you are passing images back and forth, and you could mark
03:59images for a first select and for a second and for a larger approval or for
04:04just review by another party, for example, and every one of these items each
04:09of, which has a keyboard shortcut associated with it, and by the way, these
04:12names are new to this particular version of the Bridge, they will also assign a
04:16color. So if I choose the Review command right there, I get a color of cyan
04:20assigned to this image and then if I switch over to this guy, let's go ahead
04:24and select this image right here since we haven't played with him before. I
04:27will go over to Label and this time I will choose Approved, which will assign a
04:32Green Label to the item and you can change the meaning of these colored labels
04:37if you want to by going up to the Edit menu and choosing the Preferences
04:41command and then switching over to labels.
04:45If you don't want blue to be a Review, you want it to be something like
04:48Published, you know, with an exclamation point to indicate that it's completely
04:52ready to go then go ahead and click OK. Here's the thing though. That label was
04:58associated with the name that was assigned to it. So this image right here is
05:03still associated with the Review label, which no longer exists inside of my
05:07specific version of the Bridge.
05:09So if I wanted to give it a colored label then I would need to go back to label
05:14and choose Published like so. The only danger there is that when you hand it
05:19out to somebody else who isn't using that Published label then it will appear
05:23white for them but at least they will know it means something and they will see
05:27the label here inside of the File Properties region of the Metadata panel, if
05:32they have that setting turned on.
05:34All right just one other thing about Labels. Let's say I go to this one right
05:38here, which I have set to Approved and then I decide no, not really. Take it
05:43off that list. You can choose the No Label command there, but there doesn't
05:47seem to be any keyboard shortcut for it. Well, in fact there is. The keyboard
05:51shortcut for approved is Ctrl+8 or Command+8 on the Mac. If I go ahead and
05:56press Ctrl+8 or Command+8 again then I will disapprove that image and it will
06:01be assigned No Label. So there you have it. Various ways to assign Ratings and
06:06Labels here inside the Bridge.
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Filtering thumbnails in the Contents panel
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to hide and show various images
00:04here inside the Content panel by filtering the display, so the idea is this.
00:10The Bridge is really designed to allow you to organize and evaluate hundreds of
00:15images at a time, a full-day shoot or even a multi-day shoot if you like, but
00:20if you are sitting here sifting through all these images and assigning star
00:23ratings and even assigning labels, and just trying to get a sense of what to
00:27keep and what to ignore, it can get pretty darn confusing trying to evaluate
00:31all of the images at the same time, which is why we have these filtering
00:35options and there are two of them.
00:36One is the Filter panel over here by default in the lower left region of the
00:42screen, and the other is this little star icon up here in the Path bar. So I am
00:47still working inside the 02_open_ organize folder, which is inside the Exercise
00:51files folder and I have taken a moment off stage here in the background, to go
00:55ahead and assign star ratings to every single one of my toys.
00:59So all of the toy images, these geotrack images have ratings of 1 star or
01:03higher and they all have labels. Meanwhile none of the other images have star
01:08ratings or labels and this is just the way I have set things up for purposes of
01:12this specific exercise. So if I want to evaluate these toy images independently
01:17of the other ones, I can go up here to the Star icon, click on it and I can say
01:22Show 1 or More Stars and it's got a keyboard shortcut in case you want to take
01:26advantage of it, Ctrl+Alt+1, Command+ Option+1 on the Mac, but notice this isn't
01:30Show 1 Star Images, this is Show 1 or More Stars, so anything that has a star
01:35rating and I am only now going to see the toys because I didn't assign star
01:40ratings to any of the other images.
01:41You also have the option of upping the ante. I could say you know what, I just
01:45want to see the 5 Star images and that's it and there are my three beauty
01:51shots. Now let's say I decide, all right, I have labels assigned to all of the
01:56toy images. I have not assigned labels to anything else. Let's say I just want
01:59to look at the other images. I will go up to the Star icon and I would say Show
02:04Unlabeled Items Only, expecting of course to rule out the toy images, but I end
02:09up ruling out everything. Now why is that?
02:12Well, because they have two competing interest going on here. I am saying Show
02:155 Stars, which is just three images that have labels assigned to them and Show
02:20Unlabeled Items Only, which means I am not going to see anything. So I need to
02:23turn-off my star ratings, which I could do by clicking on this option once
02:28again and that will turn off its check- mark. And now I can see just the images
02:33that aren't toy images, the ones that don't have labels assigned, and then if I
02:37want to see everybody again, I could either choose Show Unlabeled Items Only to
02:41turn it off or I could just say Clear Filter and that has a keyboard shortcut
02:45of Ctrl+Alt+A, Command+Option+A. So that shortcut Ctrl+Alt+A, Command+Option+A
02:50on the Mac is going to get rid off all filtering and then you have to see all
02:53of the images inside of a given folder here on the Content panel.
02:57Now the Filter panel down here has a lot more options associated with it and it
03:01auto-populates, meaning that the Filter panel will go ahead and evaluate
03:06everything that's going on with the images inside this specific folder and it
03:10takes a while to populate by the way, you have to wait it out, you have to wait
03:13for the little progress message down here in the lower left corner of the
03:16window, but once it does populate, you have all sorts of information to work with.
03:20For example, it knows exactly which labels you have assigned. So instead of
03:25just saying labeled versus unlabeled, the Filter panel knows that you have
03:30assigned the Select label to some of the images, these guys right here and then
03:34if you want to see all the images again, you just go ahead and turn Select off.
03:38If you want to see Select and Second, then you click on 1 and then the other
03:43and you are not going to see No Label and you are not going to see Approved,
03:46but you could then say no I do want to see No Label, but I don't want to see
03:50Select and I don't want to see Second. So just click on those options to turn
03:54them on or off and if you click to turn them all off then you disable all
03:59filtering for that specific category.
04:01Notice that you also have a Ratings category. This time if I were to click on 1
04:05Star, I am not seeing 1 Star or higher, I am just seeing the seven 1 Star
04:10images and that's it. If I wanted to see something like 4 Star and higher, I
04:14would turn-off 1 and I would turn-on 4 and 5 in order to see the 4 and 5 Star
04:20images. All right, so just bear that in mind.
04:22I am going to go and turn all of those guys off as well and I am going to skip
04:25down here, File Types is actually really useful. All of my images that I am
04:29providing to you are JPEG files inside of this specific folder, however, if you
04:34are the kind of person who shots through RAW and JPEG, so you capture every
04:37photograph to both RAW and JPEG at the same time, then you will see your RAW
04:42file format whatever it is, and the JPEG format side by side here and if you
04:46just click on JPEG, you can rule out the RAWs, which is a great way to be able
04:51to move through the images more quickly because JPEG images require less
04:54processing on the part of the Bridge and then once you choose the ones you
04:58like, then you would turn-off JPEG and you would turn-on RAW and just focus
05:02your attention on the RAW files and I'll explain how that works later when we
05:06take a look at Camera Raw.
05:07I am going to go ahead and choose close File Type. Another really interesting
05:11one for purposes of this specific group of images here is Camera model. If I go
05:16ahead and tour open Camera model, you can see I am looking at images shot with
05:20four different models of cameras and if wanted to see exactly, which ones were
05:23the Olympus E-1 shots, I could turn-on E-1, and there are the toy shots, I'll
05:28go ahead and turn that off. If I just want to see the E-300's, there are these
05:31images from Lake Powell. I will turn that off, the D-Lux 3's are the two tower
05:35images, and then finally the Canon EOS 20D's are the six Johanne images from
05:40photographer Pascal Genest. All right, so you get the idea. You can play with
05:44those as much as you want. Obviously you can assign multiple filters at the
05:47same time to get even more granularity if you like. I will leave you to
05:52discover that on your own.
05:54In the next exercise, I am going to show you how to move copy and delete images
05:58here inside the Bridge.
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Moving, copying, and deleting files
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to move and copy and delete
00:04images, so all that stuff that you can do at the desktop level on your computer
00:08where you can open a folder and you can say now I want to move these files over
00:11to this location, I want to copy these guys over here, I want to delete these
00:15files and I don't need them many more, all that stuff is possible inside of the
00:19Bridge as well and having said that, that's pretty much all you need to know.
00:23You can run with that or you can watch me show you how to do it.
00:27For example, here I am working inside the 02_open_organize folder inside the
00:30Exercise files folder and let's say that these two images of the towers here,
00:35they don't really belong with these other guys, they are just kind of sitting
00:38here by themselves. Well, I could grab these two images and it's not like they
00:42belong anywhere else frankly, but I could go ahead and drag them into the Sammy
00:48jumps folder right there, which is the first sub-folder in alphabetical order
00:52and I could release in order to move those two images into the Sammy jumps
00:57folder, and then I will go to Sammy jumps and soon enough we have got a couple of towers.
01:01Now I can see it sort of go with this image, these are all pictures of my
01:04youngest son Sammy jumping up a high cement wall that's much taller than he is.
01:08Notice that. And of course, I am just standing here advocating it and telling
01:12him to jump some more so I can shoot photographs of him, but I wouldn't tell
01:15him to jump off these towers. So I guess there are here stark contrast, that at
01:20least I am a good enough father to make sure my son doesn't jump off of a
01:23mile-high tower, whatever that is.
01:25All right, so let's say though now, having moved them to this new location and
01:30I did actually moved the files, of I look at the folder at the desktop level of
01:34computer, I would see that I have moved these files to this location. I could
01:38decide instead that I want to copy them and you copy files by selecting a
01:43couple of files like so and you know what? I should tell you something. I
01:46haven't really told you this, but you select multiple images inside the Bridge
01:50in exactly the same way you do inside the Open dialog box. So in other words,
01:54if you want to select a range of images, you click on one and then you
01:58Shift-click on another, and that gets you that range or you can select non
02:03adjacent images by clicking on one and Ctrl-clicking on another. On the Mac,
02:07that would be a Command-click.
02:08All right, so having said that, I am going to go and select both of these tower
02:12images by clicking on one, Shift- clicking on the other and then to copy these
02:17images to a different folder, like I'll go ahead and move them backup here to
02:19the 02_open_organize folder, before you release, you press and hold the Ctrl
02:25key here on the PC or the Option Key on the Mac, so totally different keys,
02:30Ctrl on the PC, Option on the Mac, and then you release your mouse button and
02:36then you release the key. Now I will go back to the 02_open_organize folder and
02:41I will note that I have indeed copied my towers, great, but I don't need them
02:46in two different locations, so I am going to go back to Sammy jumps. So I click
02:50on one, Shift-click on the other and then press the Delete key and notice when
02:54I do, I will get this alert message, which is assuming that what I want to do
02:58is reject the images.
02:59Let me show you what rejecting an image looks like. I will just go ahead and
03:02click on Reject and it will add the words Reject to those thumbnails, and the
03:08images don't leave, we are not actually throwing them away, we are just saying
03:11these images are no good whatsoever and then if I go up to the View menu and
03:16choose Show Reject Files to turn that function off, then those files are
03:20hidden, which is good because I don't want to Sammy to see them, right and if I
03:25ever want to see them again then I would go back up to the View menu and choose
03:28Show Reject Files to turn them back on.
03:31But I don't want to just reject these files I want to delete them. After all, I
03:34already have duplicates in a different location. So if I wanted to un-reject
03:38the images, I could go up to the Edit menu and choose Undo Rating or press
03:42Ctrl+Z, Command+Z on the Mac, and that will get rid of the reject rating that I
03:48had assigned. So it's something like the Star Rating inside the Bridge. Now I
03:51will go and click on one of the images, Shift-click on the other and press the
03:55Delete key once again, I get the same message plus a little bit of helpful advice.
04:00You can also use Ctrl+Delete to delete an item. Okay, that's good to know, so
04:04I'll cancel out of here. By the way, on the Mac, that's going to say
04:07Command+Delete. So press Ctrl+Delete or on the Mac, press Command+Delete and
04:12you will get this warning. Are you sure you want to send these 2 items to the
04:15Recycle Bin or on the Mac to the Trash? And if you never want to see this
04:20warning again, you could say Don't show again and then click OK. If you are not
04:24so sure about that, if you do want to have the warning then leave the check-box
04:28off and then click OK and that's what I am going to do in my case and then
04:31these two images are going to disappear, and now I will have a couple of items
04:36sitting in my Recycle Bin here on the PC or in my Trash Can on the Mac and that
04:40my friends, is how you move, copy, and delete images inside the Bridge.
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Creating and assigning keywords
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to create keywords and assign them
00:04to images from the Bridge. And I cannot stress the utility of keywords enough.
00:09They are your way of identifying the subjects of your photographs, the events
00:14that you are shooting, the locations of your shots, and so on. All of this
00:18information that the Bridge has no way of sussing out.
00:21And then later you can actually run searches based on those keywords as I'll be
00:25showing you in a future exercise. So here I am in the Sammy jumps sub-folder
00:29inside the 02_open_organize folder. So I am going to press Ctrl+A or Command+A
00:33on a Mac to select all of these images. And incidentally, if you ever find
00:37yourself wanting to de- select all images, you can press
00:39Ctrl+Shift+A/Cmd+Shift+A on a Mac. But I want to select them all. And then I'll
00:45go to the Keywords panel right here. And I want to create a new People Keyword.
00:49I am going to go to People here and right-click in order to bring up this
00:53shortcut menu.
00:54If you don't have a right mouse button on the Mac, you can press the Ctrl key
00:57and click. And then I am going to choose New Sub Keyword, and I am going to
01:01make the keyword for Sammy, like so. Then I am going to go ahead and select the
01:05check box to turn that keyword on and assign it to the selected images. And
01:09while I am here, I might as well make a keyword for my other son because he'll
01:12be employing it in just a moment. And I will right-click on People once again,
01:15choose New Sub Keyword, and I will name this one Max, and then press the Enter
01:21or Return key.
01:21This time I am not going to check it though because this is not Max, this is
01:24Sammy. And I want to create a new place, so I'll right-click on Places, and
01:29I'll choose New Sub Keyword, and I'll enter Boston, and then I'll turn On that
01:33check box. And now, I want to create a keyword for the wall. But we don't
01:38really have a category for that keyword to go into. So I am going to drop down
01:42to this icon right there that says, New Keyword, and click on it. And I am
01:45going to name this new keyword Objects, like so. And then I'll make a new sub
01:50keyword for Objects by clicking on this icon, New Sub Keyword, another way to
01:55work. And I'll name this one Wall, and then I'll go ahead and turn it on.
01:59So we have the Wall but we don't have what's Sammy is doing from the wall in
02:02this case so we need an action. So I am going to click on New Keyword once
02:06again, and I'll call this one Actions. And then I'll click New Sub Keyword, and
02:11I'll called this one Jumping, like so. So now we have a full sentence of Sammy
02:16is jumping off a wall in Boston, awesome.
02:20Now, if you want to make sure that everything is documented exactly right. Then
02:23you'll click on this image right here, the one that's L1030761.jpg, which also
02:30features Max, and you would turn on Max just to make sure that he is properly
02:34represented. Now I am going to switch over to The River, which features lots of
02:38images of my kids. And I am going to go ahead and press Ctrl+A, or Cmd+A on the
02:43Mac to select all of these images. Now they don't all contain either Sammy or
02:47Max, they all were however captured in the UP of Michigan so I am going to
02:52right-click on Places, I am going to choose New Sub Keyword, and I'll just say,
02:57UP Michigan, like so. And then I will go and press the Enter key or the Return
03:02key on the Mac, and I will turn on that check box.
03:05Now if I scroll down this list, I can see that often a lot of the images
03:09contain Sammy not every single one of them. But why not may I just go ahead and
03:12turn On the Sammy check box? And then I could decide, Gosh! You know what? This
03:17image right here, I'll go ahead and click on it to select it independently of
03:20the others; this image right here doesn't have Sammy so I'll turn that off. And
03:24then these images that just contain Max, I will go ahead and click on one, and
03:28then just Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on the others, like so. And I am going to go
03:33ahead and select all the ones that just contain Max and don't contain any Sammy
03:37whatsoever. And I'll turn On the Max check box for those ones, and turn Off the
03:44Sammy check box because he is not in any of those photographs.
03:46Now I am going to find the ones and I get all of them incidentally, I think I
03:50did. Now I am going to find, Oops! There is this guy right there. And I'll turn
03:54Off Sammy and I'll turn On Max. And then I am going to go ahead and select all
03:58the ones that contain both of them. And you can do this or you can just watch
04:02me, I realize its might be a little bit difficult to keep up with me. I'll go
04:06ahead and Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on all these images that contain both of the
04:10kids and I'll turn On the Max check box so that I have both Max and Sammy
04:14active. And then notice that there happens to be, right here, an image of Max
04:20jumping. So I'll go ahead and turn On the Jumping check box as well. And I have
04:24now properly keyworded all of the images inside of these two folders.
04:29In the next exercise I am going to show you how we can use these keywords in
04:33order to create a smart collection. Stay tuned.
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Searches and collections
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to take advantage of a couple of
00:03new features inside of the Bridge3, which is the one that happens to ship along
00:09with Photoshop CS4. And those are collections and smart collections, which
00:14permit you to assemble images from different folders. And these are virtual
00:20assemblies. You are not going to copy them to a different location; it's just
00:23your way of tagging images from different folders as you'll see.
00:27So I am going to start things off by going to the 02_open_organize folder
00:30inside the exercise_files folder. And as you may recall from the previous
00:34exercise, I am sort of working through these exercises in order. And as you may
00:38recall I want ahead and copiously keyworded some images of my sons, Sammy and
00:43Max. So let's say, I want to start things up just by searching the contents of
00:48this folder right here and its sub- folders for any of the images that I tagged
00:53is having Sammy in them. So I will go up to this Search option in the upper
00:57right hand corner of the Application Window. And all I enter Sammy, and then
01:01I'll press the Enter or Return key. And a moment or two later I will see a list
01:06of images that match this search criteria inside of this display.
01:11Now none of these images happen to be in the 02_open_organize folder. They are
01:16all in sub-folders. But the Search function is smart enough to look in
01:20sub-folders by default. So notice that we have a bunch of images of Sammy. And
01:26if I have done my work right, we shouldn't see any images that don't have Sammy
01:29in them. So thanks, it look pretty good. Plus we see this folder Sammy jumps,
01:33now what gives there? Well, I can check up on exactly what the Bridge has done
01:37by clicking on this New Search button. And what it did was it searched
01:40filenames that contain Sammy as well any images tagged with the keyword Sammy.
01:45So it's looking for both, which is why it ended up giving me this folder.
01:49All right, so fair enough. It Included All Subfolders, notice that you could
01:52turn that off if you wanted to. And we also have the option of searching for
01:57Non-indexed Files, which are files that have not been inspected by the
02:00Operating System. Indexing is something that happens automatically when your
02:04Computer has nothing better to do. But anyway, this option is turned off by
02:08default. I am going to go ahead and Cancel out of this dialog box. And I am
02:11also going to cancel out of my search, I am going to go ahead and click the
02:14Close button there to return to the standard contents of my 02_open_organize folder.
02:19Let's say, I want to make a smart collection no that just contains images of
02:22Sammy but that contain images of both my children. So I'll go over to the
02:26Collections panel right there, and there is this icon down here on the lower
02:30right corner of this panel that says, New Smart Collection. I am going to go
02:33ahead and click on it. So I want the Smart Collection, not the Collection, the
02:37Smart Collection this time around. And we are going to look inside the
02:4002_open_organize folder. And notice that the Bridge is lifting the last search attributes.
02:45I am going to go ahead and change this first one from Filename to Keywords, and
02:51then I am going to say, it contains Max in this case. And I already have the
02:55second one set to a keyword of Sammy because I have no meaningful filenames at
02:59this point. I want to get a Match, if any of the criteria are met, meaning
03:03either a keyword of Max or Sammy. If I wanted to find only those images that
03:07contain both Max and Sammy, I would say If all criteria are met. But I am
03:12looking for any, all right. And then I am going to include all sub-folders. And
03:16if I want to just be doubly sure, I could say, Include Non-indexed Files, which
03:21may be slow but in our case it not going to be that slow. And then I'll click
03:24on Save. And we now have this Smart Collection that contains all of these
03:28images of Sammy and Max; that quickly too; notice that even though we were
03:33looking for Non-indexed Files.
03:35And I'll just go ahead and call this New Smart Collection, Max & Sammy, and
03:39that will be it. And then if I want to run another one where I am searching for
03:42just those photographs that contain both of my children together, then I will
03:46click on this icon once again, and then I would just change this option to If
03:49all criteria are met, and I'll click Save. And notice that we just have those
03:53images that contain the two boys. All right, now I'll just call this one
03:58Brothers, Oh! It's adorable.
04:00Now, we also have the option of creating collections, which aren't so smart,
04:05which are collections in other words that you put together. You are not putting
04:08the Bridge in charge of creating the collection; you are going to do it. So for
04:12example, I will go over to the 02_open_ organize folder and I have got all of
04:17these images that I shot in Lake Powell right here. And let's say, I want to
04:21put them into a collection.
04:23Well, I will go ahead and select those images. This is one way to work anyway.
04:26I'll select them by clicking on the first one and Shift-clicking on the last
04:29one. Then I'll click on the New Collection button, and the Bridge is going to
04:33ask me, should it include the selected files in the new collection? Absolutely,
04:37I'll click Yes. And then I'll call this collection Lake Powell and there you
04:43have it. And I now have a regular old collection, which looks like a standard
04:47folder there. And then I have a couple of smart collections, which have gears
04:50next to them just to show how smart they are.
04:53And you can do the standard stuff where you delete one of these collections,
04:56you can also by the way, if I went to the Brothers Collection right there, I
04:59could Edit this Smart Collections so I can say, No, I don't want it to be
05:03images that contain both Max and Sammy. I want to instead find photographs of
05:08either of my sons jumping so' I'll go ahead and set this first Keyword to
05:12jumping. I'll delete the second Keyword because it's not going to do me any
05:16good, and I'll click on Save. And now I get a completely different collection
05:20of images. These are the images of the jumpers, of course.
05:23All right, so Collections and Smart Collections new to the CS4 edition of the Bridge.
Collapse this transcript
Batch renaming
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to batch rename images, that is
00:04how to change the names of multiple images in a single operation. Now you may
00:09recall at the end of the previous exercise I went ahead and modified my Smart
00:14Collection to search just for the jumpers. But I forgot to rename the
00:18collection. So because it's active I can just click on its name to make it
00:22editable. And then I'll go ahead and change the name to Jumpers, and press the
00:25Enter key or the Return key on the Mac.
00:28Now I am going to switch to my Lake Powell Collection here. And you may have
00:32noticed that most of my images do not have meaningful names; they are just the
00:36names as they were captured by the digital camera. And I am going to change
00:41that for these specific images all of, which were captured in and around The
00:45Forgotten Canyon in Lake Powell. So I am going to go ahead and press Ctrl+A or
00:50Cmd+A on the Mac to select all the images. Then I'll go up here to the Refine
00:54icon, click on it. That's one way to get to this function, you can also go to
00:59the Tools menu, so there is Batch Rename right there, and there it is with
01:03Refine, either way its fine. And then I'll choose Batch Rename or I can press
01:08Ctrl+Shift+R/Cmd+Shift+R on the Mac.
01:11By default the Batch Rename function suggests that you assign this name of
01:16Project, and the date, and a bunch of digits, which I think is a terrible idea.
01:22So I am going to go ahead and change this first item, Text, to something like
01:27Forgotten canyon, like that. And then I'll go ahead and delete the second item
01:32because I am not interested in assigning a date to the filename. So I'll go and
01:36take that out by clicking on the minus (-) button. And I'll leave in this text
01:40right here an underscore and then I will permit a sequence number. And that
01:43sequence number though is going to be two digits long.
01:46So I'll go ahead and choose Two Digits and notice we'll get a filename of
01:49Forgotten canyon_01 for the very first file. So that is just previewing the
01:53first filename in a group, 15 files will be renamed. If you want to preserve
01:58the current filename in the XMP file data, you can. Meaning that you want to go
02:02ahead and preserve the filename as it was assigned by the digital camera.
02:06That's really a bad thing as it turns out. Often times, it can be very helpful
02:11to you later. Do you want it to be compatible with both Mac OS X and UNIX? And
02:15I am going to say Yes to both of those. And I am also just to be doubly
02:19careful; I am going to replace this space character with an underscore so that
02:24I don't have any space characters in my filename. That's not absolutely
02:28necessary for Unix but it's a good idea I think, in our case. And I am going to
02:32go ahead and rename these items in the same folder. I could move them to a
02:35different folder or copy them if I prefer, but I am just going to say Rename.
02:39And all of those files get renamed just like that in one fell swoop.
02:44Now let's say, for summaries and you decide half of these images need to have
02:48different sequence numbers like this last group right here from 08 down to 15.
02:54So I will go ahead and click on Forgotten canyon_08.jpg and Shift-click on
02:56Forgotten canyon_15.jpg. And really, I know I am going to want to insert some
02:59other files at this location, or something along those lines, or these are
03:02figures in a book and I have got my figures misnumbered. I run into this
03:06problem all the time.
03:07I want to assign a different serial number here. So I am going to go up to that
03:12same command once again, Batch Rename. It's going to present me with my last
03:16applied settings, which is great. And I want the Sequence Number not to begin
03:21at 16 because that's not nearly far enough along. I want it to begin at
03:24something like 42. You can enter any Sequence Number as a start position you
03:28would like. And notice 16 by the way, took up automatically after 15 so that's
03:33where that came from. Other options available to you, you could do a sequence
03:36letter, you could preserve the current filename, there is all kind of things
03:39you can do here, just so you know.
03:41All right, I am going to go and stick with the Sequence Number though and we
03:45are going to start at 42. I'll click Rename and sure enough, what was formerly
03:498 becomes 42, then 43, 44, all the way down to 49, and so on. So it's not
03:55essential that you name your files when you are working inside the Bridge. You
03:59can go ahead and leave them set to the original digital camera names, if you
04:03want to. But if you want to be a little more organized about your approach to
04:07your images, you can go ahead and rename images on mass using the Batch Rename
04:13command. And I'll show you it gets even better.
04:15I am going to go ahead and return to that 02_open_organize folder right there.
04:20Then inside of that folder as well this is a real change to these files, even
04:24though I performed the Rename inside of the Lake Powell Collection. They still
04:29exist, these images still exist inside the 02_open_organize folder and they now
04:33have new filenames. Once again thanks to the Batch Rename command here inside the Bridge.
Collapse this transcript
Grouping images into stacks
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to stacks, which allow you to
00:04group related images together to eliminate clutter here inside of the Content
00:09panel. I am currently looking at the contents of the 02_open_organize folder
00:13inside the exercise_files folder. I have made a lot of changes to these images
00:18over the span of the last few exercises.
00:20Now I've got all these photographs from Forgotten_canyon, which is of course is
00:23part of the Lake Powell Collection. And they already appear inside the Lake
00:27Powell Collection as independent images. I don't need them to also appear--
00:31notice by switching to the collection I have collapsed my folder tree. I don't
00:35need them to also appear here inside of 02_open_organize, which I am choosing
00:39from my recent folders as independent images. So I am going to go ahead and
00:44stack them together by clicking on the first of the images, and then
00:49Shift-clicking on the last of them. So I have selected all of them, the entire range.
00:54And now I am going to up to the Stacks menu and I am going to choose Group as
00:57Stack in order to group all those images into a single stack like so. Awesome!
01:03Let's do the same thing with the toys. I'll click on the first of the toys and
01:06then Shift-click on the last of the toys to select all the toys here. And then
01:11I'll go up to Stacks and I'll choose Group as Stack again, which also has a
01:14keyboard shortcut. Notice Ctrl+G or Cmd+G on the Mac, which is a fairly
01:18standard keyboard shortcut for grouping.
01:21Now I have got this stack of images, which appears as a couple of slides,
01:25notice that. And if I hover the slides, I can tell in addition to the fact that
01:29I have 20 images here inside the stack, I have this little Play button. Well,
01:34that's useful if all of your images are frames that you have separated out of a
01:38movie. And that way, you can then play them in sequence. But if I play my
01:42images because they are all still images, we will see just them rat-a-tat-tat
01:45by. And that actually, probably went too fast for my frame record here so it
01:50will probably look like a mess. Anyways, it's of no use to me is what I am
01:53saying. What is of use to me is to change the Poster Thumbnail. That is the
01:56thumbnail that represents the stack.
01:58I want it to be the one shot that I just love so much. So I am going to start
02:03by expanding my stack by going up to the Stacks menu and choosing Open Stack. I
02:07could also press Ctrl+Right Arrow or Cmd+Right Arrow on the Mac, which is
02:11useful to know because then you can turn around and collapse the stack or close
02:15it if you prefer by pressing Ctrl+Left Arrow or Cmd+Left Arrow on the Mac. Now
02:19I am going to go ahead and expand my stack. Here is all the images inside the
02:23stack. I'll click on that one shot that I love so much in order to select it.
02:27Then I'll go up to the Stacks menu and I'll choose Promote to Top of Stake. It
02:31actually moves to the top of the stack. And then if I will press Ctrl+Left
02:36Arrow or Cmd+Left Arrow on a Mac in order to collapse the stack. Then this
02:40becomes the poster frame.
02:43Let's say, at this point I want to move this stack right next to the first
02:48stack. And you can't actually move images; you can drag-and-drop images inside
02:52of the Content panel to change their sort order, which is great for
02:56prioritizing shots. For example, let's say these two towers, which I have
03:00messed about with so much, I want to move them to the very tippy top of the
03:03Content panel. I'll go ahead and drag them all the way up the list like so. And
03:07notice I've invoked an auto scroll, which is nice. Now, I don't want to drop
03:10them inside of the folder. That would actually move them to that folder. I want
03:14to move them all the way to the top, the very first item until I see that
03:19vertical line right there. Now the thing is I am trying to move these images
03:24before the folders. That's not going to work. The folders always appear at the
03:27top of the stack. I will then see these two thumbnails as the first images
03:32inside of the Content panel.
03:34Notice up here in the upper right-hand corner of the application, my Sort Order
03:38has changed to Sort Manually automatically. That indicate I now have a manual
03:41sort going. Which means that I can switch back and forth between this and the
03:46Filename sort for example. So I'll choose By Filename. Now the towers are
03:50appearing near the end as per of an alphabetical sort By Filename. And then I
03:55can switch again to Manually, which will load my last Manual Sort Order.
04:00Now this can be tricky. If you switch back to Filename for example, and you
04:04care about your Manual Sort, you have got to be watchful because now if I drag
04:09anything to a different location, I'll wipe out my previous Manual Sort and
04:13I'll replace it with my new one. For example, I want to grab this stack right
04:17here and move it up the list. But I don't want to do it by just dragging a
04:21single thumbnail. Notice right now that I have just one item in the stack
04:26selected. That what's indicated by the fact that the forward slide is active
04:30but the rear slide is inactive. If I were to drag now, I would move this guy
04:35out of the stack. And I don't even want to do that so I am not going to show
04:38that to you. Instead I want to make sure I grab the entire stack, which I can
04:42do in one of two ways. Either I can click on this little sliver, see the sliver
04:47of a slide on the right hand side and at the bottom; If I click anywhere in
04:50that sliver, I'll select the entire stack like so. Or, I can Alt-click or
04:55Option-click on the thumbnail in order to select the entire thing.
04:59Now, we'll go ahead and drag it up the list taking care not to drag it into a
05:03folder like so or into another stack. You can move images in the stacks that
05:07way. I want to drag it next to that first stack like so and drop it in place.
05:11And now notice if I switch back to Filename, I'll restore the alphabetical sort
05:17of course. And then I go back to Manually, and the two towers appear at the end
05:21because their Manual Sort Order was forgotten.
05:24All right, so there you have it. Ways to manually sort images as well as how to
05:29work with stacks here inside the Bridge.
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Comparing images in Review mode
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to compare related images in the
00:04Review mode, which is new in Bridge 3.0, which as you may recall is the one
00:08that ships with CS4. I've got the Bridge trained on the contents of the
00:1202_open_organize folders inside the exercise_files folder.
00:15And let's say I want to compare these six images shot by Pascal Genest of
00:20iStockphoto.com. So I'll click on Johanne-1.jpg and I'll Shift-click on
00:24Johanne-6.jpg. And I now have these six images selected and they are all
00:29visible in the Preview panel, notice that. And I can exaggerate the size of the
00:33Preview panel if I want to by going to this down pointing arrow-head right
00:36here, which allows me to select from all of the predefined workspaces and I'll
00:40choose Preview. And that gives me this gigantic Preview panel at the expense of
00:46the other panels.
00:47Now for what it's worth, it looks better on a large screen. I am just happening
00:50to be working on this tiny 1024X768 display. But even so while these thumbnails
00:55are much bigger than they were before, they are not big enough. So I am going
00:59to switch back to my Essentials Workspace by clicking on the word ESSENTIALS up
01:03here at the top of the screen. And that's better. And now I want to take a look
01:07at the Review mode. I can get to the Review mode in one of three ways actually.
01:11I can go to this little Refine Icon, click on it, and choose Review mode, I can
01:15take advantage of the keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+B or Cmd+B on the Mac, or I can
01:20go to the View menu and choose Review mode. They will all get you to the same
01:24place, which is here.
01:25Now if you have enough images selected as I do, it tends to be we have five or
01:29more images selected. Then you are going to see the images in this Lazy-Susan
01:33fashion right here where they kind of spin around. And I am clicking on an
01:37Arrow icon down here in the lower left hand corner of the window in order to
01:41switch from one image to another.
01:43Notice the crazy thing about this is I am clicking on the right pointing
01:47Arrowhead in order to rotate the Lazy- Susan to the left or so it seem because
01:53we are seeing the bottom of the Lazy- Susan as it was coming out toward us. So
01:58even though we are moving in a clockwise fashion, we are sending the forward
02:02image to the left when I am clicking the right button. And so the way to think
02:06of this is that that Right Arrow icon or the Right Arrow key on your keyboard
02:11activates the image to the right. So pressing the right arrow goes ahead and
02:15brings this one in. Next I bring this one in like so. Or if I press the Left
02:20Arrow key, I would bring the image on the left of front. So that's one way to
02:24work is to sort of spin around with the left and right arrow keys.
02:27You also have the option of just clicking on one of these. Notice you get
02:31this Hand tool right there but you don't really have to like drag the image in
02:34to place. You just click and that becomes the active image. You also have the
02:40option of assigning star ratings just like we could when we were looking at the
02:44full-screen preview. So if I will press the 1 key, I will go ahead and assign a
02:48one star rating. If I will press the 0 key, zero stars; 5 of course gives me five stars.
02:54All right, so in my case I am just going to give it zero because this is too
02:58much of a low angle shot for me and we are getting too much lens flair. So I am
03:02just going to get rid of this image, I am going to remove it from this group by
03:05either clicking this down pointing Arrowhead or pressing the Down Arrow key on
03:09my keyboard. That goes ahead and takes us down to five. All right, so this
03:13image I like. I am going to go to the next one, the one to the right that is by
03:17pressing the Right Arrow key. It's a little white for me but I'll come back to
03:22it and I am not sure about it. This one where we can see the light I am not a
03:25fan of, so I'll go ahead and press the Down Arrow key to get rid of it.
03:28And notice once we get down to four images that we switch out of Lazy-Susan
03:32style and we are seeing this straight on comparative view. And then I have to
03:37decide, which of the images is active. It's a little more difficult to decide
03:41who is active now because it's not the image that's right down here in front of
03:44us, it's the image that has a highlighted title. So in this case, it's
03:48Johanne-2.jpg, which I also don't really care for, I mean it's not my favorite,
03:52so I'll press the Down Arrow key to get rid of that one.
03:54And now we can see three images side by side in full view here. Johanne-3.jpg
03:58is active, again I don't want it because I am seeing the light in the lens
04:02flair, Down Arrow key and I am left with these two. Perfect, they are both
04:06great shots. So I'll go ahead and give them both three star ratings. And
04:10Johanne-5.jpg is selected right now so I'll press the three key. Then I'll
04:13press the Right Arrow key to make the image on the right active and I'll press
04:16the three key for it as well.
04:17Now I am going to show you a couple of other things that you can do here inside
04:20the Review mode. For one, you can add loupes. You know, that Magnification
04:24option. You can add loupes in each one of your previewed images. And because I
04:28change the behavior of the Loupe option inside the Preferences dialog box, I am
04:31going to have to press the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on a Mac and click, let's
04:35say in her sunglasses in order to bring up the Loupe function right there. And
04:40then I'll go to the other image and I'll Ctrl-click or Cmd-click inside of it
04:44as well. And notice now, I have louped her face inside both of these images. If
04:49I were to drag either one of these loupes I had moved just that one loupe, or I
04:54could press the Ctrl key and drag the loupe, this would be Cmd dragging the
04:59loupe. But if I press the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on the Mac and drag inside of
05:04either loupe, then I'll move both of the loupes together as I am doing right here.
05:08So for example, I could focus on a totally different portion of the image such
05:12as her knees or her feet. If I can get them both on frame at the same time
05:17something along those lines just to check out the focus of the specific details
05:21inside of the image.
05:22So that's one of the promised things. You can do the other thing is you can go
05:25ahead and add all of the remaining images, the ones you haven't ruled out, you
05:30can add them to a collection by clicking on this button right there. And as
05:33soon as you do, you will close out of the Review mode and you will go directly
05:38to the Collections panel as I have here and it just says Collections from Review
05:42mode, and I'll say, Best of Pascal and press the Enter key or the Return key on
05:48the Mac. And I now have two images sitting inside of a new collection, thanks
05:52to my ability to compare and evaluate images inside of the new Review mode.
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Playing images in a slideshow
00:00Thus far we've seen three different methods for inspecting images on a
00:03detailed level. We saw the Loupe function, which is only so good in my opinion.
00:09We saw the Full Screen Preview, which absolutely rocks, and we saw the Review
00:13function, which pretty much rocks. I think it's definitely a quality feature.
00:17It's great for comparing images for example.
00:19There is one other way to see your images up close and personal inside the
00:22Bridge. And that's the Slideshow function. So I am going to switch to the River
00:27sub-folder inside the 02_open_ organize folder. And I am going to select the
00:31images that I want to add to my slideshow, which would be these. I am going to
00:34click on the first image and then go ahead and Shift-click on the sixth image.
00:38And that contains all these images with Sam in the foreground and Max in the
00:42deep background up here on this dock. Then I am going to scroll down and
00:45Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on each one of these two low angle images of Sammy
00:51sitting here in the dock.
00:52Now let's go ahead and play through these images in the slideshow mode by going
00:55to the View menu and choosing Slideshow, which you should note has a keyboard
00:59shortcut of the second letter in Slideshow, which is L. So Ctr+L here on the
01:04PC, Cmd+L on a Mac. And now all I need to do is just wait for these images to
01:09play by here. And by default they are going to play at five-second intervals.
01:14You are also seeing these automatic transitions between each one of the images.
01:18If you want to change the interval, or you want to change the transition, or
01:22you want the slideshow to repeat after it gets done playing, then you press the
01:27L key by itself. Again, the second letter in the word Slideshow. And in my
01:32case, I am going to go ahead and Repeat the Slideshow. I don't want it to play
01:35any faster than this but I do want the transitions to go a little more slowly.
01:40I am going to stick with the transition of Dissolve though you could play with
01:43something different, if you want to. And then I'll go ahead and click on the OK
01:46button in order to continue playing the slideshow like so.
01:50There are other things you can do on a slideshow. It's not just a matter of
01:54sitting here and watching it. And to find out what those things are; you can
01:57press the H key, H for Help. And you'll see a variety of options that are
02:02available to you here. For example, I can press the B key to blank out a frame
02:07so that I am not seeing anything on screen for whatever reason. And if I press
02:12the B key again, then I will restore whatever image I was seeing. I am going to
02:16press the H key again so that we can see our other options that are available
02:20to us. You can see that you can set a star rating with 1-5, you can toggle a
02:24label with 6-9, you can rotate the image with the square bracket keys, you can
02:29increase the Rating with period, decrease it with comma. And that's because
02:32those are also the greater than and lesser than keys. You can open an image
02:36just by pressing the O key, or Open in Camera Raw with R, and so on, and so on.
02:41I am going to press the Spacebar in order to Pause my playback. And I am also
02:45going to show you how you can Zoom In on the image by pressing the + key that
02:48will take you to the 100% view at, which point you can just go ahead and drag
02:53the image on screen in order to look at a different part of it. And you can go
02:57even further in it if want to using all those several techniques +(plus) to go
03:00to the 200%, scroll up to go to 400%, scroll down to go to 200%, minus to go
03:06to 100%, you can click to go all the way out, you can click again to come back
03:10in. As I say, drag around, press the Down Arrow key to advance to the next
03:15slide if you want to like so. Or you could press the Up Arrow key to go back to
03:21the previous slide. I actually like this image right here quiet a bit so I'll
03:24press the Down Arrow key.
03:26And then at any given time if you want to get out of this slideshow, all you
03:29have to do is press the Escape key and you'll be returned to the Bridge. So yet
03:34another method to inspect your images inside the Bridge. An oldy, but a goody,
03:38the Slideshow mode.
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Customizing and saving the workspace
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to switch between workspaces in
00:03the Bridge and how to create your own custom workspace. Now a workspace is a
00:08saved panel configuration, so where the panels are located, how big they are,
00:12which panels are visible, which ones are hidden, how big the thumbnails are
00:16inside the Content panel and so on.
00:19The Bridge ships with a handful of workspaces, many of which are listed at the
00:23top of the screen here. I can change exactly how many are listed by dragging
00:27this little bit of scrub over here to the left of the word Essentials. So I
00:31will drag it to the left to expose more workspaces, drag it to the right to
00:34expose fewer.
00:36To see all the workspaces you click this down pointing arrowhead and there they
00:40are, the first six have keyboard shortcuts, after that they don't, just
00:43something worth noting there. So now I am going to switch from my Essentials
00:47workspace, which I have modified quite heavily, I am going to switch over to
00:50Filmstrip, which takes you to the traditional horizontal filmstrip view.
00:54Now, these thumbnails are way too small, so I will go ahead and increase their
00:59size by dragging that slider control right there. Now, let's say I don't want
01:03this horizontal filmstrip with a big landscape preview on top of it, I want a
01:07vertical filmstrip instead.
01:09Well, unlike in previous versions of the Bridge, you don't have a vertical
01:12filmstrip command; instead you just go ahead and make one. I will do that by
01:17giving myself some room over here on the right hand side of the screen. I will
01:20drag this vertical divider line over to the left and now I have this area to play with.
01:25Then I will grab the Content tab and I will drag it and drop it into this new
01:30location. Now, I have a vertical filmstrip instead and I will go ahead and make
01:34it narrower like so, so that we are still leaving plenty of room for the
01:38preview. Then I will switch from Favorites over to Folders, so then I can see
01:42my folder tree once again.
01:44So these are the panels I want to be able to see. I also would like to be able
01:49to see Metadata. I don't see any reason not to have that up on screen and that
01:53appears up here. So I will drag it down here with Filter and Collections and
01:58then I would also like to bring up my Keywords panel.
02:00So I will go ahead and choose it, again it appears over here with Content, I
02:04will drag it over here, with Metadata in the rest. Then I will move Collection
02:08from the cramp quarters down left to the more expensive quarters up left like so.
02:13I think that makes a lot of sense. We have Favorites and Folders and
02:16Collections together. I will switch to Folders to make it active. Then we have
02:20Filter, Metadata and Keywords together, I will switch over to Metadata in this
02:24case and this is the configuration I want to use, now check this out.
02:28In order to save my settings to Filmstrip, all I need to do is click on
02:32Essentials to switch back to the Essentials display, which brings up my last
02:37modified view of the Essentials workspace. Now when I click on Filmstrip, I see
02:42my last modified view of the Filmstrip workspace.
02:46So the Bridge is constantly updating a name to workspace, but you should bear
02:49in mind that the Bridge is only temporarily remembering your customized
02:53filmstrip view, until such time as you click this down pointing arrowhead and
02:57choose Reset Standard Workspaces, at, which point you are going to restore the
03:01original settings for all of the predefined workspaces. So that's just
03:05something to bear in mind.
03:06So if you want to make doubly certain that you are saving your work, you want
03:10to go ahead and create a new workspace. However, I am not really then
03:14interested in saving a workspace around this vertical filmstrip, I am happy to
03:20take my chances in this case. Because what I want to do is I want to create a
03:23new really super custom workspace based on Essentials, so that I have some
03:28really big thumbnails to work with.
03:29I am not too interested in the Preview, for example, so in fact, I am going to
03:33go up to the Window menu and I am going to turn the Preview panel off. Then I
03:38am going to grab Metadata, which I always feel like I need and I will drag it
03:41over into the lower left region. I will grab Keywords, move it lower left. I
03:45will go ahead and grab Collections and I will move it up into the upper left region.
03:49I am also going to turn off the Favorites panel. I just want Folders and
03:53Collections up here; I will make sure Folders is active. I want Filter,
03:57Metadata active and Keywords right there. Then I am going to double-click on
04:00this vertical divider to hide this right hand region of panels. Now I have just
04:06this huge Content panel to work with and I am going to save that off.
04:09I will go up to the down pointing arrowhead, I will choose New Workspace, and I
04:15will call it Big Thumbs, which is what I always call this, very descriptive I
04:20think. Save Window Location as Part of Workspace, absolutely that's fine and
04:24that just saves a maximized view of my screen in this case. Save Sort Order as
04:28Part of Workspace, not so much on that one, I am not going to save the sort order.
04:32I will click Save in order to create my new Big Thumbs Workspace, and notice
04:36where it appears, first in order, so guess what? It gets that first keyboard
04:42shortcut, so it's going to be Ctrl+F1 for Big Thumbs, Ctrl+F2 for Essentials,
04:46and Ctrl+F3 for Filmstrip. That's Command+F1, Command+F2, and Command+F3 on the Mac.
04:52This is beautiful! This is exactly what I want; I want to be able to see these
04:55three guys as well. Also bear in mind, if you make some modifications to Big
04:59Thumbs, it's going to be temporarily saved until such event as you choose Reset
05:03Standard Workspaces, which is going to reset to your original definition of Big
05:08Thumbs in this case.
05:10One more thing I want to show you. If you press the Tab key, you get rid of
05:13everything but the Content panel. So that's Tab to hide everything but the
05:18Content panel, Tab to bring back whatever other panels you had on screen.
05:23That is even savable as part of the workspace, here inside the highly customizable Bridge.
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3. Setting Up 'Shop'
Preferences, color settings, and shortcuts
00:01In this chapter, I will familiarize you with the basics of Photoshop:
00:05establishing preferences, locking down some very important color settings,
00:10loading a few handy keyboard shortcuts, customizing the interface, and saving your workspace.
00:16It's all about coming to terms of Photoshop so that you can work inside the
00:20program at maximum efficiency and minimum frustration. Plus you and I will be
00:26on the same page so that future exercises will make that much more sense.
00:31Trust me, it's fast and it's worth it.
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Setting general preferences
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to the General Preference
00:02settings inside of Photoshop. Now note that I am not going to show you how
00:05every single one of the Preference settings work. That would be incredibly
00:10boring for one thing. You would have to be quite the propellerhead to care
00:13about every single one of the Preference settings. Plus it will be a massive waste of time.
00:18Most of the Preference settings are not even the kinds of settings that we want
00:21access to, just fine by default. But there are a few that are set, in my
00:26opinion, wrong by default. And by changing those settings, it's my hope that
00:30you are going to have a smoother experience here inside Photoshop, and of
00:33course you and I will be on the same page.
00:35Now I have an image open on screen. I have not provided this image for you.
00:39It's just a little bit of eye candy here. Just something to brighten up the
00:42video as we work inside the otherwise dull Preferences dialog box. So here is
00:46how you get to it? Go up to Edit menu or if you are working on a Mac, go to the
00:50Photoshop menu, then drop down to the Preferences command. This command is
00:54higher in the menu on the Mac. And then choose General or you can press Ctrl+K
01:00or Cmd+K on the Mac. And that keyboard shortcut is universal throughout the
01:04Creative Suite applications. That brings up the General panel of the massive
01:08Preferences dialog box.
01:09Now a note about dialog boxes inside Photoshop CS4. They are non-modal and they
01:15are more non-modal than ever. And what I mean by that is that you can actually
01:20control other things on the screen as you are working inside the dialog box.
01:24For example, let's say that I want to be able to see the woman's face in the
01:27background here. Then I would press and hold the Spacebar and that's gets me
01:30the Hand tool. And we'll be discussing the Hand tool in more detail in the next
01:34chapter when we will discuss navigation. And then by Spacebar dragging this
01:38woman like so, I can drag her down, so that she is looking at the dialog box
01:43along with us.
01:44I can also control my palettes over here in the right side of the screen. For
01:47example, I can click on this Double Arrow Icon to collapse the palette, or I
01:51can click again to expand the palette. So you have a fair amount of control and
01:55if you have a couple of different dialog boxes open at the same time, you can
01:59move one in the background; it's pretty amazing actually.
02:02All right, now let's begin discussing the actual Preference settings. Most of
02:07these guys are fine. The first one that's a problem is Export Clipboard and
02:11this one is pretty technical. Here is how it works. Every application, every
02:16program, has it's own clipboard and by default the applications are setup to
02:21trade information between each other's clipboard. For example, let's say you go
02:24into Microsoft Word, and you copy a paragraph, and then you switch over to
02:28Photoshop. Word goes ahead and hand that paragraph off to Photoshop and then
02:33you can paste that paragraph into Photoshop if you want to. So that's really
02:37handy, if you are working with text. It's not so handy, if you are working with images.
02:42For example, this image right here if you look down here in the lower left
02:45corner of the screen is 36 megabytes. If I where to copy this entire image and
02:50then switch over to Word, Word would choke, Word cannot handle 36 Megabyte
02:55image. So what's going to happen is it's going to spend a lot of time trying to
02:59give Word the clipboard where it is going to sit and go, ha! Ha! Ha! I can't
03:03deal with it and finally, it's going to get an error message. And you are going
03:07to get involved and it's going to ask you, hey! I couldn't convert the
03:10clipboards. And it is not going to even ask you anything; it's just going to
03:12tell you, it couldn't do it.
03:14In other words, it's going to waste your time. And you don't want that, it just
03:17makes for an unpleasant experience. So long way of saying, turn this option
03:21off. Unless you know that you want to copy things from Photoshop then they
03:25would have to be tiny little images and then hand them off to Word or some
03:29other program.
03:30Use Shift Key for Tool Switch; I recommend you turn that off as well. You can
03:34access just about every tool by pressing a key and you can cycle between tools
03:38that occupy the same slots here by pressing Shift along with the key. But I
03:42think it's easier just to get Shift out of the equation and just press the
03:45alphabetic key instead.
03:47All right? So I am going to turn that check box off. Notice the Animated Zoom
03:51and Enable Flick Planning. Hopefully both of those options are available to you
03:55and turned on. They should be turned on; these are Open Geo Functions, new to
04:00Photoshop CS4 and they are wicked cool. We'll see more about them in the next chapter.
04:05Zoom Resizes Windows right here is turned off by default on a PC and on by
04:09default on the Mac. I used to recommend that you turn it on both platforms. I
04:13now recommend that you turn it off on both platforms as you see it here. And I
04:18will be explaining why that is there is some new behavior inside of Photoshop
04:21CS4 and I'll be explaining that new behavior in an exercise in the next
04:26chapter, in Chapter 4 when we will discuss Navigation.
04:29Otherwise, these guys are fine. So these are the settings that I recommend you
04:32to use. I also recommend you leave History Log Off. Reset All Warnings, by the
04:37way, that is just in case you've told a bunch of dialog boxes not to show again
04:42if there is a little don't show again check box on many dialog boxes, on many
04:45alert messages. And if you have turned a lot of alerts off and then you decide,
04:50you know what? Some other person is going to be working on this computer inside
04:53Photoshop, they might want to see those alerts. Then you can reset them all by
04:56clicking on this button right there.
04:58That's it for now for this exercise. In the next exercise, we'll review all of
05:02the other Preference settings that I want you to change. Not that many more,
05:06these were the main ones. But in any event, stay tuned.
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Setting interface preferences
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to a new panel of preference
00:03settings here inside of Photoshop and these are the Interface settings. Now I
00:08happen to have any old image open on screen. It happens to be a beautiful any
00:12old image. This image comes to us from photographer Alexander Alexis of
00:16iStockPhoto.com. But you can open up any image you like.
00:20And notice that I am zoomed out from this image sufficiently that I can see
00:24this neutral light gray pasteboard in the background. And also notice how the
00:29image is casting a drop shadow onto that pasteboard. You can change that along
00:33with a lot of other Interface settings by going up to the Edit menu. That would
00:38be the Photoshop menu on the Mac. Choosing the Preferences command, and then
00:42choosing Interface. And that will bring up these many, many options inside of
00:48the dialog box.
00:48Now I am going to go ahead and move it over so that we can see the image in the
00:51background. And normally, I was telling you that you can Spacebar drag the
00:55image but you can't do that when you are this far zoomed out inside of the
00:59Standard Screen mode. So we are going to have to move the dialog box as well.
01:02Then notice while working inside the Standard Screen mode, I will just tell you
01:05that. And you can see how you could change the Color of the pasteboard if you
01:09want to. For example, I could change it to Black. And notice that we are seeing
01:13a preview on the fly so we can gauge whether that's what we want or not.
01:16Or I could change it to a Custom Color, which in my case is going to be Blue. I
01:20don't know if that is the way it is for you. That's very dangerous to use a
01:24colored background, in my opinion, because it distracts your eye from gazing
01:29accurately the colors inside the image. You want to keep that background nice
01:32and neutral, that pasteboard there. So I am going to switch it back to Gray. I
01:35will show you a better way to change the pasteboard in the very next exercise.
01:39But for now, just leave it set to its default.
01:43Then we have Border control. Now watch the border that is the delineation
01:47between the image and the pasteboard here. As I change this setting from Drop
01:51Shadow to Line, and you can see it update on the fly. So you might prefer a
01:54Line or you might prefer None. Because once again, in having anything there can
02:01detract from your ability to gauge the image. Now when I recommend, for what
02:06it's worth, is that you leave for the Standard Screen mode, you leave the
02:10Border set to Drop Shadow. And then for Full Screen with Menus, you go ahead
02:14and change it to None, and then leave it set to None for Full Screen. That's
02:18just my recommendation. You can go any way you want.
02:21Now you have just this infinitesimal control over what's going on. For example,
02:26see this blue Ps right there? That is the Photoshop icon. Watch it as I turn On
02:31Use Grayscale Application Icon, it goes gray. So if you just don't want to see
02:35any color other than image color on screen, then you can gray out that icon as
02:40well. I am going to go ahead and leave the color on because that's not really
02:42that intrusive.
02:44Otherwise, I am going to go ahead and drop down here. You could turn Off Tool
02:48Tips if they are getting in your face. For example, you will notice these Tool
02:50Tips that keep coming up to describe the option that I am hovering over. That's
02:55a function of this option right there. So if you don't like those Tool Tips you
02:58can turn it off. However, for my purposes, for training purposes here,
03:02it's useful to have the Tool Tips. So I am going to leave it turned on.
03:05Next, we have control over all kinds of new aspects of the interface inside of
03:11Photoshop CS4. These control panels, what I am calling palettes & documents,
03:17because I call these guys, as we move through the dialog box, I call them
03:21panels because that's what they are called. These guys over here are palettes.
03:25Anyway, Photoshop calls them panels for what it's worth. That's a new thing.
03:30And you have the option of auto- collapsing Iconic palettes. So the idea is when
03:34you go ahead and collapse the palettes to icons like this and then you click on
03:39one of these guys in order to bring up the palette, does it stay visible on
03:44screen as you work inside of an image? I say it shouldn't, I say it rather that
03:49guy go away when I start working inside of the image. So I am going to turn On
03:52Auto-Collapse Iconic panels so it does go way in the future.
03:56And then the other options I will say just leave them set to their defaults.
04:00The only thing you might want to change is those of you who are Macintosh users
04:03and really prefer to work inside a free floating windows, then you could go
04:07ahead and turn Off Open Documents as Tabs. So that every time you will open an
04:11image it opens inside of a free- floating window. Totally up to you but I am
04:15going to go ahead and open my images as tabs. And we will be discussing tabs in
04:18more detail throughout the entire series in fact.
04:22Now I am going to go ahead and click OK in order to accept those modifications.
04:25And now notice if I click on this option in order to bring up the palette, and
04:30then I start working inside of the image, the palette automatically goes away.
04:33All right, so there you have it. Some useful Interface Preference settings.
04:37In the next exercise, I am going to show you a better way to change the color of
04:41the pasteboard. Stick with me.
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Changing the color of the pasteboard
00:00As you may recall in the previous exercise, I was showing you how you can
00:03change the color of the neural gray pasteboard that appears around the image,
00:08from the Interface panel of the Preferences dialog box. In this exercise, I am
00:12going to show you a better way to change the pasteboard color and this is
00:15something I recommend you do, because I find, speaking personally, I find that
00:20the pasteboard is too bright and it competes too much with the image itself. So
00:24I would like to darken it up a little bit, but I don't want to send it all the
00:26way to black.
00:27So this is what you do, make sure you have zoomed out far enough from the
00:30image, so that you can take in the pasteboard. Then right-click inside of that
00:35pasteboard and that brings up this Shortcut menu right there. If you are
00:39working on a Mac and you don't have a right mouse button, go ahead and press
00:42the Ctrl key and Click, and then you can choose one of these presets here,
00:45Gray, which is very light, Black, which obviously is extremely dark and then
00:48Custom, which is blue for me anyway, or you can dial in your own color by
00:53choosing Select Custom Color and that brings up the color picker dialog box and
00:58here is what you want to do, you don't need to worry about the Hue Value, you
01:02can just leave it set to whatever it is.
01:04You want to go ahead and change the Saturation Value though, this is very
01:07important, to zero. So it's S for Saturation, it should be zero and then B for
01:13Brightness, you want it to be whatever brightness value it is you want to work
01:16with. For example, let's say, I want 25%, which is a pretty dark gray and then
01:21Click OK, you don't need to worry about any of the other options, just these
01:25two, Saturation and Brightness and then Click OK, and that switches you out to
01:30a pretty dull dark gray. Well, now at this point let's say you think, no it's a
01:35little bit too dark. Here is another way to work.
01:38Go to this Gradient tool right here in the Toolbox. Click and hold on it and
01:42then choose the Paint Bucket tool. Now the Paint Bucket tool isn't the greatest
01:45tool on Earth when working inside of continuous tone images, but it's great for
01:49changing the color of the pasteboard. Now I want you to go over to the Color
01:53palette and I want you to Click on this icon in the upper right hand corner of
01:56the Color palette, which brings up a fly out menu for this specific palette.
02:00And I want you to switch over to HSB sliders. You should see zeros all the way
02:05around, if your foreground color is black.
02:07Make sure that your Saturation Value is set to zero and then change your
02:11Brightness Value to whatever it is you just want to use. Let's say, I think,
02:14you know something about 10% brighter than what we have. We dialed in 25% just
02:18a moment ago, so let's go with 35% instead. Then I will press the Enter key or
02:22the Return key on the Mac and I will, this is the important part here. You want
02:26to press the Shift key and Click with a Paint Bucket tool. So a Shift-click in
02:31the background inside this pasteboard will change its color and that brightens
02:35it up a little bit, so this is 35%.
02:38Now then, each one of the screen modes has its own background color, so for
02:43example, if I switch to a different screen mode and you do that by going up to
02:46the Application Bar to the Screen mode icon right there and Clicking on it.
02:50This icon by the way is going to be located underneath the menu bar on the Mac.
02:55Anyway when you click on it, you get this menu here. We are working inside the
02:58Standard Screen mode. I will show you the Full Screen mode later, not right
03:02now. We are not quite ready for that one. Just go ahead and choose Full Screen
03:05mode With Menu Bar, and that will switch you out to this mode here. And then
03:09note that our Drop Shadow went away because we asked not to have a Drop Shadow
03:14in this full screen mode in the previous exercise.
03:17We also have a lighter shade of gray going in the pasteboard, I am going to go
03:20ahead and spacebar drag the image over there in order to center it. And then, I
03:25will dial in, let's say a different brightness value, something darker this
03:28time, let's do go over to 25% for this one, then press the Enter key or the
03:32Return key on the Mac and Shift- click with the Paint Bucket once again.
03:35And now we have different values associated with these different screen modes.
03:41So if I go back up here and choose Standard Screen mode then I am going to see
03:46a slightly different background color as well, and we have the drop shadow, so
03:49each one of the modes is completely customizable, it is basically where it
03:53comes down to.
03:54So just remember the Paint Bucket tool right here shares the slot with the
03:57Gradient tool and if you Shift Click with this tool or with the Paint Bucket
04:01tool, you will change the color of the pasteboard here inside Photoshop.
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Other preferences
00:00In this exercise, we are going to whip through the remaining preference
00:02settings that I recommend you to change. I am going up to the Edit menu or the
00:06Photoshop menu on the Mac, choose Preferences and choose File Handling, in
00:11order to bring up the File Handling panel inside the Preferences dialog box,
00:14you can also switch between panels just by clicking on these items in the left
00:18hand list or if you like keyboard shortcuts, you can press Ctrl+1 for General,
00:22Ctrl+2 for Interface, Ctrl+3 for File Handling and so on. That would be
00:27Command+1, Command+2, and Command+3, and so on down the list on the Mac.
00:32All right, here inside File Handling, there are two things I recommend you to
00:35change. First of all, I am going to ask you a question; do you use Version Cue
00:39at your office place? If your answer is yes, I do, then leave Enable Version
00:43Cue turned on. If your answer is "what the heck are you talking about? I don't
00:48know what Version Cue is, my office place what?" then turn this off. Because if
00:53you are not using Version Cue and the over whelming majority of you aren't, for
00:57a very good reason, I don't recommend you to use it, then go ahead and turn
01:00that off. That will save a little processing inside the Photoshop.
01:04Then, Maximize PSD and PSB File Compatibility, the idea here is when you save a
01:09layered image, an image with lots of layers in it, we will see lots of examples
01:12of that as we work through Photoshop. When you save that as a native PSD
01:17document, which is a way to go, then Photoshop once do not only save the layers
01:21but also save a flat version of the file where all the layers are merged
01:24together and that expands the size of the file on the hard drive. And it means
01:29you are eating through your hard drive that much faster.
01:32You want smaller files presumably, so you want to set this to Never. Now Never
01:36is a great choice if the only application that you are going to be using to
01:40look at layered images is Photoshop or the Bridge, both of, which can see
01:45layers just fine without Maximize Compatibility, without that overhead.
01:49However, if you are working with an application that doesn't see layers and you
01:53want to look at layered images, then you are going to have to turn it on. Now,
01:56examples are, if you do a lot of work in Premier, which is the video editor
02:01application from Adobe or if you work with Lightroom. Lightroom, for those of
02:07you who know Adobe Lightroom, cannot see Photoshop layers. So if you want to be
02:11able to see a layered document in Lightroom, you have got to set it to either
02:14Ask, in, which case you are going to be bugged every time you save one of these
02:17files or just set it to Always. But there are going to be bigger files, I am
02:21going with Never.
02:22All right, next Performance, this gets a little technical but it's worth
02:27discussing here. Scratch Disks, if you are working on a laptop, nothing to
02:32worry about, no reason for us to even discuss Scratch Disks. It's only an issue
02:37if you have multiple hard drives installed inside of your tower style computer.
02:42The idea in that case is when Photoshop runs out of memory, so that is RAM,
02:48Random Access Memory, when it runs out of that, it needs to go somewhere or it
02:51would crash, or it would tell you it couldn't finish you know doing something
02:55for you, then it goes to the hard drive in order to sort of, off load pieces of
03:00imagery and stuff and swap things back and forth.
03:03The more hard drive space you can give Photoshop the better and the speedier
03:07that hard drive is then the faster that the program will work and the best way
03:11to get more and speedier hard drive space, is to turn on this second option,
03:16whatever it is. On the PC it's liable to be D but it could be some other
03:19letter. On the Mac it's going to be a named drive but you want to go ahead and
03:23turn it on, then Click on that drive, this is presumably your data drive, this
03:27is your system drive C on top. On the Mac, whatever it is on top on the Mac,
03:31that's going to be your system drive and then your data drive is going to be
03:34the second one. You want your second one first, so click on it and then click
03:38on this Up Arrow icon in order to move that Scratch Disk into the first
03:42location there. In that way your system drive is going to get hit second,
03:46that's going to be the speediest solution.
03:48Next, GPU Settings right here, Photoshop is telling you that it detects a video
03:54card and this is the name of your video card. Hopefully you will see this
03:58Enable OpenGL Drawing option live and turned on. If it's not turned on, try to
04:03turn it on, if the option is dimmed, meaning it's grayed out. That means there
04:07is a problem with your video driver and you need to download a new version of
04:12your video driver, you would actually figure out, what your video driver is.
04:15You can see that this is an NVIDIA card and this is the kind of card GeForce
04:188800. Then I would go to the NVIDIA site and I would download the newest driver
04:23for my GeForce 8800 and install it and then probably you have to restart your
04:28computer and then restart Photoshop and this option should be available to you.
04:33There are some kinds of video cards out there that do not support OpenGL; they
04:38tend to be low-end cards. If you have a very cheap computer then you may not be
04:42able to turn on OpenGL at all. Oh! And why does it matter? Just very briefly,
04:46because you want to take advantage of the new navigation functions inside
04:49Photoshop CS4 that we are going to be discussing in the next chapter, stay tuned.
04:53All right, next Cursors, these next guys are really easy, so if you are sitting
04:57and going, please stop talking, I will in just a moment, go to Cursors and turn
05:03on Show Crosshair in Brush Tip. Normal brush tip is fine, turn on this check
05:07box, it's even finer. You will get a little cross right there. That's great for
05:11alignment purposes inside of your brush cursors, which is a great thing. Then
05:16switch down to Units & Rulers, and I want you to change your Rulers to pixels.
05:21It shouldn't be anything else, shouldn't be centimeters, it shouldn't be any of
05:24these other guys. It should be pixels inside Photoshop. Pixels are your buddies.
05:29And that is it, folks. Go ahead and click on OK and we are out. We have modified
05:34our Preference Settings.
05:35All right, good job, take a breather, and then join me in the next exercise
05:39when we discuss, very important, color settings inside Photoshop.
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Installing the CS4 color settings
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to install some color settings
00:03that I have created for you in advance and then apply those settings inside
00:06Photoshop and across the Creative Suite applications, if indeed you own one of
00:11the many versions of Creative Suite 4.
00:14This is a very important thing to do, because it ensures that all of your
00:18applications are in alignment with each other, so that they are all displaying
00:21images in the same way, so that you can take an image inside of Photoshop and
00:26then place it into InDesign or Flash or what have you and have that image show
00:31up in exactly the same way it showed up in Photoshop.
00:34Color settings also ensure that your images print properly. So here is what I
00:39want you to do. I would like you to go ahead and open up, if you have access to
00:43it, the 03_set_up_shop folder. There in you will find two files that we are
00:47going to be working with, one is the Best Workflow CS4.csf file, and you may or
00:52may not see that extension, that is the .csf, but you will see this document.
00:57That is the actual color settings file that I have created for you.
01:00Then we have got this document here, Instructions.tif, and you can open that up
01:05inside of Photoshop. The instructions show you where to install this Best
01:09Workflow file. So here are the instructions right there. Notice that it's
01:13telling you to copy that document, that orange file; we saw just a moment ago,
01:18to a location on your hard drive depending on your platform. So depending on,
01:21which platform you are using, you are going to copy it to a different location.
01:25Under Windows XP, the location is this and each of the backslashes indicates
01:30that we are going deeper and deeper into the folder structure here. So you go,
01:34for example, to the C drive and then go into the Documents and Settings folder,
01:37then go into the User folder. That's going to be your computer login name, by
01:42the way. Then descend into the Application Data folder and then into the
01:46Adobe's folder, the Color folder and the Settings folder, and that's where you
01:51will copy this document.
01:52Under Windows Vista, it's going to be this folder path right there, and I will
01:57actually show you that one because I am working on Vista. Then on the Mac, you
02:01would go to the Finder label of your computer. That is the Desktop label and
02:04there is a menu up in the menu bar that's called Go and you would choose Home.
02:08That takes you to the Home folder and then you will dig inside the Home folder.
02:12You will go to Library > Application Support > Adobe > Color > Settings.
02:17So let's see how it works inside of Vista. I am going to go ahead and switch
02:21over to the contents of my C drive right here. Now I can't see everything I
02:25need to see, so I am going to have to turn on Hidden Files. This is something
02:29you have to do under Vista and Windows XP. So in order to bring up the menu
02:34here, inside of this folder. I will press the Alt key and that of course then
02:39brings up the menu here. I will go to Tools and then I will choose Folder
02:42Options. Those of who are working on the Mac, you really don't have to do this.
02:45You can just sit tight for a moment. You are just going to copy your file to
02:49this folder right here.
02:50So I am going to go to Folder Options and I am going to switch to View and then
02:56I am going to say Show hidden files and folders. I definitely want that and if
03:00you are not seeing extensions, the . tif and the .csf, that kind of stuff, at
03:05the end of your file names, then turn off Hide extensions for known file types.
03:08I find it to be very useful to see those extensions.
03:11Finally, if you want to, you can turn off Hide protected operating system
03:15files, so that you can see all of the files on your computer. But notice, if
03:20you do turn that checkbox off, Windows is going to get mad at you. It's going
03:23to say gosh! Do you really want to do that? Then you would click Yes if you
03:26really want to do it or No if you are scared and you think you are going to go
03:29delete files that you shouldn't be deleting.
03:31But that's really up to you; you don't have to do this. I am just going to say
03:34No, but you definitely need to turn on Show hidden files and folders. Then
03:39click Apply to make that happen. Then click OK in order to close the dialog box
03:44and now you can see all of the folders that you need to see.
03:47Now, we just need to follow the instructions that we are seeing in the
03:50background here. So it's saying, under Windows Vista, I should go into the
03:54Users folder that I got right there, and then to User and I would guess that's
03:59me right there, bunch of other guys, but let's work with me because I am logged
04:03in as me right now.
04:05Then I will go to AppData and then I will go to Roaming, double-click on that,
04:09and then I will go to Adobe, double- click on it. Then I will double-click on
04:13Color and I will see the Settings folder, I will double-click on it. So we are
04:17just burrowing our way into the folders here. Then I won't see anything.
04:22Once I come to the end of the line, that is the folder into which I need to
04:26copy the files. So let's go ahead and bring up that folder, which is the
04:3003_set_up_shop folder right there. I will just run a copy and I am going to do
04:34that by right-dragging, so I am pressing the right mouse button and dragging
04:38this file into the other folder, just to make sure that I am copying it instead
04:42of moving it.
04:44Then it will ask me what I want to do as soon as I drop, and I will say Copy
04:47Here and then we have gone ahead and copied the file to the right location. So
04:52we are now ready to apply these color settings inside Photoshop and inside the
04:59Adobe Bridge and I will show you how that works in the very next exercise.
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Applying color settings in Photoshop and CS4
00:00Now that we have installed the Color Settings in the previous exercise, we are
00:04going to apply them inside of Photoshop. If you own one of the many variations
00:10of the full Creative Suite, you can apply them across all the applications
00:15inside the Adobe Bridge as well. So I will show you both.
00:18Starting in Photoshop, I want you to go up to the Edit menu, and this is the
00:22Edit menu on the Mac or the PC, and then choose the Color Settings command.
00:25Notice it's got a keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+Shift+K, Command+Shift+K on the Mac.
00:29You may recall that Ctrl+K or Command+ K gets you Preferences. Ctrl+Shift+K or
00:34Command+Shift+K gets you Color Settings, a different kind of preference.
00:38So I will go ahead and choose that command and then if you go up here to the
00:41Settings option, you should be able to click on it. In this list, will be Best
00:46Workflow CS4, if you've installed it properly, it will be there. You don't have
00:49to restart the application or anything. You will see Best Workflow CS4, go
00:53ahead and choose it and that will slightly somewhat adjust your settings inside
00:58the dialog box.
00:59Now I do want to show you something. If I hover over Best Workflow CS4, you
01:03will see a description down at the bottom of the dialog box that tells you how
01:05this works. I actually recommend to use these settings whether you are working
01:10in Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign or any of the other programs. I include
01:14them along with the Photoshop Illustrator and InDesign CS4 One-On-One series.
01:18So, that's a description for this. What we have done is we have changed the RGB
01:23working space from sRGB, which is a pretty low-rent space. It's a good space if
01:29you are a consumer, it's not a great space if you have higher aspirations, much
01:33better is this guy right there, Adobe RGB.
01:35So that's what we have applied using Best Workflow. Otherwise, we have just
01:39made sure that we're not going to get irritated by Photoshop on a regular
01:42basis. If I click on More Options in order to see more options down here at the
01:46bottom, you can see that we have shifted the Intent to Perceptual, which is
01:50great for imagery. It's a best way to convert images from one color space to
01:56another inside of Photoshop.
01:58Otherwise, we are good to go here, so just go ahead and there is really nothing
02:01you need to do, except for just change your settings to Best Workflow CS4, but
02:05I do want to show you this. Notice, it's now telling me that my applications
02:08are unsynchronized. And that's because I changed Photoshop CS4 to Best Workflow
02:13CS4, but I didn't change any of the other applications in the Suite.
02:17So, I will click OK. If you have other applications, you need to own the full
02:22Creative Suite or this next step will not work. So if you bought Photoshop
02:25alone, this next step is not something you need to do, you can just stop
02:29watching the movie and go to the next one.
02:31But, if you have the full Creative Suite, then go to File menu and choose
02:35Browse in Bridge in order to open the Bridge right here. I have the Bridge
02:39trained on the 04_navigation folder, just because the images look better than
02:43those inside of the set_up_shop folder. Then I am going to go to the Edit menu
02:47and again choose Color Settings. This time it's called Creative Suite Color
02:50Settings. Ctrl+Shift+K or Command+Shift+K on the Mac.
02:53Now if you can't see this command or you choose the Command and you get an
02:56error message. That means that you don't have the full Creative Suite installed
03:00or at least your computer thinks you don't. I will go ahead and choose this. If
03:04you get this dialog box, you are in good shape. That means you have a version
03:08of the Creative Suite and you should see right there Best Workflow CS4 in this
03:12list. If not, if you can't find it then turn on this checkbox show expanded
03:15list of Color Settings files and that will show you more settings file that are
03:19available to you.
03:20I am going to go ahead and click on Best Workflow CS4 and then I will click --
03:24notice it's saying Not Synchronized. Then I will click Apply and that closes
03:29the dialog box, which is a little frustrating, because I would like to be able
03:32to see that everything is working. To see that everything is working go back to
03:35the Edit menu, choose Creative Suite Color Settings again and this time you
03:39should see Synchronized, because you have synchronized all of the applications
03:43so that they are all displaying color in the same way, very important! Now I
03:47can just cancel out because I have already done it.
03:49So that's it. That's how you apply the Color Settings that you installed in the
03:53previous exercise. In the next exercise, I am going to show you how to work
03:58with custom keyboard shortcuts in Photoshop.
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Installing the dekeKeys keyboard shortcuts
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to install some custom keyboard
00:03shortcuts. Now, these keyboard shortcuts goes by the name Deke Keys and I have
00:07been working on them years and years, trying to hone them down to the best
00:10keyboard shortcuts possible, so that we are taking full advantage of the keys
00:14on the keyboard and gaining access to some terrific commands inside Photoshop.
00:19So if you have access yourself to the 03_set_up_shop folder that's inside the
00:23exercise_files folder. You will find a folder called dekeKeys PsCS41on1. Go
00:29ahead and double-click on it to open it up and you will see that we have two
00:31files, one for the Mac and one for Windows. The Windows file is compatible with
00:36both Windows XP and Windows Vista and the Mac file is compatible with any old
00:41Macintosh platform.
00:42Next, what you want you to do is make sure Photoshop is running. If it is, you
00:45can see this woman in the background still coolly regarding our progress,
00:48telling us that Photoshop is open, of course. And then you would double-click
00:52on the file that matches your platform, in order to open it inside a Photoshop.
00:58So, just give it a double-click. Now, if something goes wrong, when you
01:02double-click in a file, for example, all of a sudden, you launch Adobe
01:05Premiere, very common scenario. That means that Premiere was installed later
01:10and it's grabbing the KYS format right there.
01:13Then in that case, you would right- click on the file and then say Open With and
01:18then find Photoshop. You can also just grab the file and do a drag-and-drop, if
01:23you would like to drag and drop it into Photoshop and open it up there. Okay,
01:27so one way or other, you are going to double-click, you are going to drag and
01:29drop, what have you and you will find yourself inside Photoshop.
01:32It won't look like anything is different but something is different. And to
01:36find that difference, go up to the Edit menu and then choose the Keyboard
01:40Shortcuts command, which itself has a keyboard shortcut, and notice what that
01:43keyboard shortcut is. Ctrl+Shift+Alt+K, Command+Shift+Option+K on the Mac, so
01:47yet another variation on Ctrl+ K or Command+K for Preferences.
01:51All right, that brings up the Keyboard Shortcuts dialog box right here and you
01:55should see that your Set is now set to Photoshop Defaults (modified). That
02:01indicates that we have modified the default keyboard shortcuts inside the
02:04program and just to check that everything is cool, I want you to twirl open
02:08File. So, click on that little triangle to expand the file item and then I am
02:14going to advance downward a little bit and you should see the Place command at
02:18a point and it has a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+Shift+Alt+D or
02:23Command+Shift+Option+D on the Mac. And I am reading these keys, by the way, in
02:27the order that you should read them, Ctrl is the first one, Command on the Mac;
02:31Shift is the second one, and then Alt or Option is the third one. For some
02:34reason, Adobe lists them in backward order but I am not going to, just so you know.
02:39All right, so this is the right file, this is the file we are looking for. You
02:43know, what I would like to do is add your own keyboard shortcut, just so you
02:46get a feel for how it works. Okay, so go ahead and twirl close the File, go
02:50back up there, and then twirl open Image like so. And then let's advance
02:55downward quite a bit and you can use the scroll wheel on your mouse if you
02:59prefer, until we come to Image Rotation. So, it's going to be fairly far down
03:03the list and then there is this item, Arbitrary, which isn't arbitrary at all.
03:08This is a very specific rotation we would be applying.
03:11Then I want you to press all those modifier keys. So, that would be
03:16Ctrl+Shift+Alt on the PC, Command+Shift +Option on the Mac. So, mash your fist
03:20down in the lower left corner of the keyboard and then press R and you will
03:25then go ahead and create a keyboard shortcut for Arbitrary. Now, it may get a
03:29little grumpy at you because this is something that could happen with the Warp
03:33command where you duplicate and create Warp, we are not interested. Just go
03:37ahead and click Accept in order to overwrite that complaint and you now have
03:41the keyboard shortcut for this command. Awesome, which is a really great thing
03:44to have, you will find out in a later exercise, in a chapter.
03:47All right, let's go back up the list, close that guy just for the sake of
03:51tidiness. Then I want you to click on this little Save button, this little
03:55floppy disk icon indicates that we are going to save because we all save to
03:59floppy disk these days. So click on the little icon and then you will name your
04:05file and I suggest you call it dekeKeys, but if your name is Mike and you want
04:11to call them mikeKeys or if your name is Sally and you want to call them
04:13sallyKeys, totally fine with me. I don't care what you call them.
04:16But I am going to call them dekeKeys, because my name is Deke, CS4 and then I
04:20will click Save. Make sure you are saving it into a folder called Keyboard
04:23Shortcuts, then click Save and you are ready to go. Look! You have got your own
04:27custom set of keyboard shortcuts, click OK and you are now part of the Custom
04:32Keyboard generation, my friend, and you will be able to work right along with
04:35me in future exercises.
04:36All right, so in the next exercise, we are going to move on here, we are going
04:41to shift our attention from Preferences to organizing the palettes, here inside
04:46Photoshop CS4.
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Organizing the palettes
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to organize palettes inside of
00:03Photoshop, how to collapse them and expand them and bring up new palettes.
00:07I have still got this image from Alexander Alexis open on screen; I did not make
00:12this image available to you because it's just here to serve as window
00:15dressing for the video. But notice that I am seeing what's called a workspace
00:20inside the Photoshop. The default workspace, which is the Essentials workspace
00:25right there and it's a good place for us to start.
00:28So, I am seeing the Color palette that's combined with the Swatches and Styles
00:33palette. They are grouped together and I have got Adjustments and Masks grouped
00:36together and then I have Layers, Channels and Paths. Now, I am working on this
00:40dinky screen; 1024x768 for filming purposes here and I want to give the Layers
00:46palette more room. So, I am going to collapse the Color, Swatches, and Styles
00:51palette here by clicking right there in this empty area, right there. Then I
00:55will collapse the palettes vertically, if I ever want to un-collapse the
00:59palettes that is expand them again, then I would click again and that will
01:03expand them. So, that's pretty simple thing to do.
01:06By the way, you can also drag tabs out of a group in order to create free
01:10floating palettes like this one right here, and then if you decide later, you
01:13want to put it back, then you can just drag it back into the group like so.
01:17Just watch for those blue lines and in this case, I am seeing a blue rectangle
01:20around the entire group. That's a good thing because if I am seeing a blue
01:23horizontal line like so, then I am going to drop the Color palette above
01:28Swatches and Styles. To put it in the group, I need to see a rectangle, blue
01:33rectangle around the entire thing.
01:34Then drop and that's going to make Color the last palette, then I will go ahead
01:38and drag it over like so to make it the first palette again. Now, if you ever
01:42see one of these things, you probably won't because you are working on a bigger
01:45screen but this plagues me on this 1024x768. It's just that the Layers and
01:49Channels and Paths palettes got collapsed for no good reason. They have got
01:52room to exist down here at the bottom of the screen. So, I will just click next
01:57to Paths in order to expand that palette once again.
02:00All right, so I am going to go back up here to Color, Swatches and Styles.
02:03Click to the right in order to collapse those palettes, so I have more room to
02:05work these gargantuan guys down here. You also have the option of collapsing
02:12your palettes all the way to icons by clicking on this double arrow icon right
02:15there. So, that will collapse the palettes, then click again to expand them.
02:19You can also just click anywhere in this dark bar. That will collapse, that
02:23will expand.
02:24In Photoshop CS4, you can also drag that bar around to move the entire super
02:29group of palettes into a different location. Notice that they are now floating
02:33as a gargantuan group here. If you want to put them back, drag them back over
02:37here to the right side. You can also drag them over to the left if you want to,
02:40they can be right next to the Tool Box if you prefer, but wherever you decide
02:44to drop them, look for that blue vertical lines. So, as soon as you drop, then
02:48they get anchored in the place and this is called docking, by the way. We are
02:51docking these palettes in a place. I don't want them over here; I want them
02:55back over here. So, I will just drag by the dark gray bar once again and drag
02:58them into this place here.
03:00You can -- oops! Look at that. I dragged that Tool Box along with because it
03:04became part of my super group. So, in order to get the Tool Box away from these
03:09guys, I need to drag by this little sort of bit of sand paper right there
03:12that's above the Move tool. This guy right there in the light gray area, drag
03:16only the Tool Box by itself, drop it over here in the left side of the screen
03:19when I see the vertical blue bar.
03:22All right, now things are back to the way they need to be and by the way, you
03:25can expand the Tool Box to make it two columns if you like. I don't know why
03:29you would do that but you can and then click again to make it a single-column
03:33Tool Box. Notice that a single-column Tool Box fits very nicely even on a tiny
03:37screen like mine.
03:38Another thing you can do just so that you know all of your options, you can
03:41drag just a single group, if you want to, instead of the super group, just a
03:45single group by dragging to the right of the word, Styles. See, I just dragged
03:49those guys and I create this little group that's collapsed. I would click right
03:54there in order to expand it. Click again to collapse it and let's just go ahead
03:58and put it back. Up at the top, notice I have the horizontal blue bar, which is
04:02going to allow me just to drop these guys into place instead of adding them to
04:06this group here.
04:07Now, you can also go ahead and bring up other palettes, there are palettes that
04:10we are not seeing on screen right now and to get to any palette inside a
04:14Photoshop, you go up to the Window menu and if nothing else, you want to make
04:17sure to bring up the History palette. You just cannot survive in Photoshop
04:20without the History palette. So, I will go ahead and choose that command and
04:23notice that it goes ahead and adds for me; it adds these palettes over on the
04:28right-hand side, which is not what I want.
04:30So, I will go ahead and drag this little guy right there, the little scrubber,
04:35drag it over to the left, so that I see a vertical bar, blue bar on left side
04:41of the palettes and then drop. So, it should be right there and if you want to
04:44expand the palettes, you just click on the dark bar and that would go ahead and
04:48expand those palettes like so and then click again in order to collapse them.
04:52Now, you may wonder why we just see these icons in the case of History and the
04:56Actions palette as well, it comes up as part of that group. But if I were to
05:00collapse these palettes, we see icons and names. That's a function of this.
05:04So now you can just drag that edge and expose the names if you want to or drag
05:09again to collapse them. I am going to drag this edge to collapse these guys all
05:14the way down to icons and then I will click up here in order to expand them. In
05:17that way, when I click back and forth, I get the maximum collapse-tion out of
05:22these palettes. That's not a word, but still, I think you know what I mean.
05:25Now, I am going to go up to the Window menu and I am going to choose Info to
05:29bring up the Info palette and that's going to appear right there. Go ahead and
05:34click on the I for Info in order to hide that palette from view. Now, I will go
05:39up to the Window menu once again and I will choose Brushes and that should add
05:45the palette to a ridiculous location like this. That's fine. Let's go ahead and
05:48drag it away from there and drop it into this location, so that we can see this
05:53tiny little blue bar, drop. That's good. Just a few more that I want to add; I
05:59am going to add the Character palette that may come in, in totally the wrong
06:01location, it most certainly is. You know, in fact, I will show you something
06:05else you can do here.
06:06Let's just keep adding the palettes in wrong location, I will choose Layer
06:10Comps in order to bring up this group and then finally, I will choose Tool
06:15Presets down here and this way, we are seeing all of the palettes now. Choose
06:19Tool Presets and that's going to move this guy to the top but where I want it
06:23to be is down at the bottom here. So, I will drag its little scrubby and I will
06:26drop it into this group like so.
06:30Then we have three in a row and now we can take these little guys right here
06:34and drag each one of them over to this location like so. All right, we now have
06:39everything set up the way that I want it to be. In the next exercise, I am
06:44going to show you how to save this configuration of palettes as a custom
06:49workspace, stay tuned.
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Saving your workspace
00:00In the previous exercise, I've showed you ad nauseam how to organize palettes
00:04inside of Photoshop. In this exercise, I am going to show you how to save your
00:08impeccably organized palettes as a custom workspace, which is something you
00:12want to do. If you are going to spend the time doing the work, you want to save
00:15the work, after all just to protect yourself. So, here is how to do just that,
00:19but first, I want to show you one more thing that you can do with palettes,
00:22actually two more things as we'll see.
00:24One is how do you close the palette, or close an entire group of palettes.
00:29Let's say, I want to close the group that includes Adjustments and Masks. I
00:33would go to that palette, notice that there is an icon in the upper right-hand
00:36corner here that gives us access to a flyout menu. So, click on it and then you
00:40would choose Close to close just the Adjustments palette and choose Close Tab
00:44Group to close both Adjustments and Masks.
00:47That's what I am going to choose, they go away, you want to bring them backup,
00:50you go to the Window menu and choose either Adjustments or Masks. So, if they
00:55are group together, they are going to come up together, and there they are. So,
00:58you are good to go.
00:59Now, what about these guys? They are collapsed so we don't have access to the
01:03flyout menu. Well, for example, with Info, I'll click on the Eye button there
01:06in order to expand the palette, so we can see it, there is the flyout menu
01:10icon, click on it and then choose Close or Close Tab Group, up to you. In my
01:15case, I am just going to click on the double-arrow icon to collapse the
01:19palette, once again, because I want to keep it on screen.
01:21All right, we are just about ready to save our workspace but there is one more
01:25thing about the palettes that you can save along with the workspace and that's
01:29the size of the thumbnails that are associated with the Layers, Channels and
01:33Paths palette. By default, they are extremely dinky, way too small in my
01:38opinion. So, here is how you make them bigger.
01:40You go to this empty area down here that's below the one layer inside of this
01:45image, just a new image that I've opened for the sake of variety, by the way,
01:49and I'll right-click in this empty area, or if you don't have a right mouse
01:53button on the Mac, you would press the Ctrl key and click and then choose Large
01:57Thumbnails, in order to display the large thumbnail right there.
02:01Then I'll go over to Channels and I will right-click down in this area and
02:05choose Large in this case, and now we see large versions of the Channels and
02:09you've learned all about what Layers and Channels and Paths are in later
02:13chapters, but for now, let's just get things setup right.
02:16Click on Paths, there's the Paths tab. There are no paths inside of this image,
02:19fine, just right-click in this empty area and choose Large. One day when there
02:23are paths, they will appear large, which is good. Then click on Layers to make
02:27layers active, then click on Adjustments to make it active, just so then I have
02:31all the right palettes up on screen, everything is now configured the way I
02:34want it to be.
02:35Now, I'll go up to the Applications bar at the top of the screen here, where I
02:39see the word Essentials. That's what you want. Go ahead and click on the word,
02:42Essentials, there and then choose Save Workspace. If you started with some
02:46other workspace, you just click on its name.
02:48In any event, choose Save Workspace brings up the Save Workspace dialog box
02:53right there, and I am going to go ahead and name this workspace One-on-One
02:57because after all, this is the one-on- one workspace by golly. You can go ahead
03:01and associate keyboard shortcuts in menu items, but I don't recommend you do
03:05that. Over the years, I've learned that that's just not the way to go.
03:08Panel Locations, which are the palette locations that you do want to save, so
03:12make sure that check box is on and then click on the Save button and now, we
03:16have One-on-One, look at that. Now check it out, I can switch back and forth. I
03:19can click up here and choose Essentials and I'll now see the original
03:24Essentials Workspace. I can click up here and then choose something like What's
03:27New in Photoshop CS4 and not only will I change the palettes, but also see that
03:33I am going to change my keyboard sets and I might change my menus as well.
03:38I don't want to do that. I'll wipe out dekeKeys if I do, so I am going to say
03:42No. You could say Yes if you want to but then you're going to have to
03:45reestablish dekeKeys. Well, you know what, I'll show you Yes, I'll show what
03:49happens if you click Yes. All right, we'll say Yes, this is what's new in
03:52Photoshop CS4 and I'll go over to the Edit menu so you can see that it's
03:56highlighting commands that are new, such as Content-Aware Scale; totally new
03:59command. Auto-Align Layers has been updated; Auto-Blend Layers has been
04:02updated. We have got some new preferences, for example, Interface. I was
04:06telling you that's new. We've got some new preferences inside of General as well.
04:09All right, but that's not what I want; I want to switch back to my goodness
04:12there, One-on-One. So, I'll click on it, choose it. That takes me back to where
04:17I want to be, but I think we might still and we still have some menu problems
04:22here. So, let me show you how to work those out and to resolve those.
04:24Let's go ahead and choose Keyboard Shortcuts under the Edit menu and then make
04:29sure that Set is set to dekeKeys CS4. So, if you have any concerns about that,
04:34which I do, so I am going to switch back to Photoshop Defaults, then I'll click
04:37OK. Now, I'll go back go up to the Edit menu, choose Keyboard Shortcuts again
04:42and I'll choose this time dekeKeys CS4, just to make sure it's active. Good, it is.
04:47Now, let's go over to Menus and instead of having the menus set to What's New
04:51in CS4, let's just set it back to Photoshop Defaults, so that we are
04:55reestablishing all of our menus being visible without any special coloring or
04:59any of that stuff that get in way and then click OK. All right, so we've come
05:03full spectrum, you can do whatever you want. But this is the workspace I
05:07recommend, the workspace that's going to match my workspace as we work through the series.
05:10All right, friends, that is how I recommend you set up shop. We've now
05:14customized the program to work at its very best. In the next chapter, I will
05:18show you how to navigate inside of your images, how to get around inside of Photoshop CS4.
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4. Navigation
Getting around with OpenGL
00:01In this chapter, I am going to show you how to get around the image window: how
00:05to zoom in, pan around, even rotate the view, so that you can paint inside the
00:10image at different angles.
00:12If this sounds a little dull, rest assured it's not. In fact, these are some of
00:16the most exciting new features in Photoshop CS4. Assuming that you have an
00:21OpenGL-savvy graphics card, as you most likely do, Photoshop permits you to
00:26take advantage of smooth continuous zooms, birds eye panning, image tossing
00:32for fast pans and screen accurate renderings at any zoom level.
00:37Photoshop CS4 also supports a new tabbed window interface, which makes
00:41switching between open images easier than ever before. Here is how to navigate
00:46inside Photoshop CS4.
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The tabbed-window interface
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to the tabbed window interface,
00:03which is new to Photoshop CS4 and just by way of background, this is part of an
00:08ongoing interface initiative called OWL. O-W-L, which stands for Operating
00:13System Widget Library for what little of that's worth.
00:16The idea though is Adobe is trying to establish a consistent interface across
00:20all the Creative Suite applications. So, if you feel at home in Photoshop, you
00:23will feel that much more at home inside of Flash or InDesign, etcetera. And the
00:28interface is pretty well established across the various applications. There are
00:31some differences here and there. But almost to a program, they share these
00:35tabbed windows.
00:36Now, the idea is I have got several images open on screen right now, and each
00:41one of them gets its own tab here at the top of the screen, just below the
00:45Options bar. So, if I wanted to switch to a different open image, I could just
00:48click on its tab like so, and every single one of these images incidentally is
00:53available to you inside the 04_navigation folder.
00:57More importantly, they come to us courtesy of photographer Alexander Alexis who
01:01does just exceptional work for iStockPhoto.com. So, as I say, click on a tab to
01:07switch to that window, or you can switch to window from the keyboard and this
01:11is different on the Mac and the PC. So, here on the PC, I press Ctrl+Tab to
01:15move from one open image to another. If I were to press Ctrl+Shift+Tab, I would
01:20move backward through the list.
01:22On the Mac, I press Command+Tilde, the Tilde key is that key in the top-left
01:28corner of an American keyboard, just to the left of the 1 key and above the Tab
01:32key. So Command+Tilde moves you forward through the open images.
01:36Command+Shift+Tilde moves you backward through the open images.
01:40If you have too many images open to see all of their tabs as I do, then you can
01:44click on this double right pointing arrow icon and you can choose the image
01:47that you want to look at from the list. Now, currently all of my images, if you
01:52take a look at them, all but the last one are in alphabetical order, but that's
01:56because I open them in alphabetical order. I could change the order of my
02:00images if I want to, I can re- prioritize my images by grabbing a tab and
02:05dragging it to a different location.
02:07Now, you can't auto scroll, once you get to the end of the visible tabs, if you
02:10want to go farther, you have to choose a different image from the list like so,
02:13I'll choose Beige beauty and then I would grab Woman with orchids and move it
02:18to the very beginning, so that she is the first open image. And then if I go
02:22over to my Image menu right here, you'll see that Woman with orchids has been
02:26moved to the top of the list.
02:27All right, now one final note. When I am working under Windows, as I am here,
02:33Photoshop goes ahead and takes over the entire screen. Now, I can change that
02:37if I want to, by going up to this icon in the top-right corner of the window
02:40and clicking on it and that way I can actually drag the application window
02:45around to a different location, I can resize it and so on, but I prefer to work
02:50in that mode where I see Photoshop and only Photoshop. So, I'll go ahead and
02:54click on this icon again in order to maximize the application.
02:58Now, you probably know, you can switch applications on the PC by pressing
03:01Alt+Tab. So it works really beautifully, it's great to have every single
03:05application taking over the entire window, in my opinion for the most part.
03:09Now, on the Mac though, we are used to being able to see through one
03:12application to another application in the background, so you can just click on
03:15a Window to switch to it.
03:17So on a Mac; you can switch in and out of being able to see multiple
03:20applications at the same time, using this thing called the Application Frame.
03:23So, I am going to go and click on this double arrow icon right there and choose
03:26Application Frame. This is a screen shot of Photoshop on the Mac because this
03:31command doesn't exist on the PC.
03:32What you do is you go to Window menu and you choose this command right there,
03:35Application Frame. When the Application Frame is on, you see Photoshop and only
03:40Photoshop in much of the same way as you see it here on the PC. In fact, it's
03:45virtually indistinguishable from the PC version that way.
03:48If however you want to be able to see through Photoshop to other applications
03:51and mix and match windows, then you want to turn the Application Frame off and
03:55you'll see each image open in its own independent window. So, I just want you
03:59to know that that Application Frame command is available to you under the
04:03Window menu on the Mac.
04:05All right, so there you have it, the new tabbed window display here inside of
04:10Photoshop CS4. In the next exercise, I am going to introduce you to the
04:14application bar and this icon right there, Arrange Documents. Stay tuned!
Collapse this transcript
Arranging image windows
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to arrange windows inside of
00:03Photoshop CS4, using this new option called the Arrange Documents icon. I have
00:08got those same six images open from photographer Alexander Alexis of
00:13iStockPhoto.com and of course, every single one of these images is available to
00:17you in the 04_navigation folder. And I am just cycling between them by pressing
00:21Ctrl+Tab on the PC or Command+Tilde on the Mac.
00:24Now, let's say, I want to be able to view four of these images at the same
00:28time, so in four independent image windows. Then I'll go up here to this icon,
00:33Arrange Documents, in the applications bar, so it would be located below the
00:37menu bar on the Mac in this General region over here and I am going to click on
00:41that icon and I am going to choose this option right there, 4 Up, and you can
00:45see, there is a ton of different ways to configure your windows here. You can
00:50experiment with all those options if you like.
00:52I am going to choose 4 Up, so I can see four different images at the same time
00:56and I want to be able to see meaningful portions of my images. So, I am going
01:00to go ahead and select this tool near the bottom of the Tool Box, the Hand tool
01:04and I am going to drag inside each one of these windows here in order to
01:09determine the portion of the image that I am seeing inside of the Image window.
01:13So, you can see, I have four independent Image windows. Only one of the images
01:17is active at any given time and you can tell which image is active by the
01:21highlighted tab. Notice that this tab for Radial motion.jpg is bright, while
01:27the tabs for the other windows are dark.
01:29All right, now let's say, I am not seeing the four images that I want to see. I
01:33don't really want to see the White towell women and I don't want to see the
01:36Women with orchids, as beautiful as they are. I want to see some other images,
01:39for example, I want to be able to see Copper profile; this one right here. So,
01:43I am going drag this tab and drop it into this quadrant like so and then she is
01:50available as well as the White towell image. It just happens to be hidden right now.
01:54So, I can see Copper profile in this upper right area, and then I want to take
01:58this Night creature image right there, and I want to bring her down into the
02:02lower left quadrant like so. Now, I miss, now that's an interesting thing that
02:06happens there. Let's go ahead and do that again. I want you to see when you
02:09miss and when you actually target it. It's when the Image window turns blue
02:14that you've successfully targeted it and you are going go ahead and put the new
02:19image into the proper location. So, I wanted to make sure that I've targeted
02:23this window right here, which I successfully did this time around.
02:26However, if you end up missing, you get this number where you end up with a
02:30floating window like so and I'll go ahead and scale it larger, so that you can
02:34see that the window floats in front of everything; you can even float out
02:37screen like so, but it floats in front of the palettes. It even floats here on
02:42the PC, it floats above the menu bar and what's totally amazing about this in
02:45my opinion, I am going to go ahead and move this over to the right a little
02:48bit, is I could then take a group of palettes right here, like I'll go ahead
02:52and drag by this little top scrubby thing and drop the palette, so that they
02:57are floating and independent and I'll go ahead and expand them by clicking on
03:00that dark bar at the top of the palettes.
03:03Notice that now I have an image window that's floating in front of some docked
03:07palettes and floating in front of the Image window is a free floating palette.
03:11So, you have this amazing degree of control over exactly what you are seeing
03:17inside of the Photoshop CS4 interface; this is all new stuff. This is not how
03:22it worked in the past. All right, I am going to go ahead and put these palettes
03:25back where they were and I am also going to put this image back down here into
03:31the lower left quadrant.
03:32Now, I like to go ahead and keep the images organized this way because they've
03:35automatically scaled to fit the interface. If I were to press the Tab key in
03:40order to hide all the palettes on screen, then my windows will automatically
03:45scale in order to fill that newly opened space. Notice that each one of these
03:49windows is exactly the same size. So every one of them scaled, and then if I
03:53press Tab again to bring back the palettes, that's the Tab key in the keyboard,
03:57then all my windows are going to go smaller. Again to compensate for what's on
04:01screen, I could also press Shift+Tab in order to open up these windows and then
04:06press Shift+Tab again in order to reduce the size of the windows.
04:10So, you really do have this amazing degree of control and you can even build
04:13your own sort of pattern of tiled windows here. For example, I'll go ahead and
04:18grab that vertical White towell image and I am going to drag it and I will drop
04:23it right between. Notice right now that we have this blue vertical line that's
04:28running right down the center of all the windows and if I drop this window into
04:31place, I will have a fifth image at this new location right there. And again,
04:37it goes in and scales automatically if I were to tab away all my palettes like
04:42so. Just amazing for those of you who are trying to work with multiple images
04:46at the same time.
04:47All right and finally, if you want to restore that single grouped image window,
04:52then you go back up here to the Arrange Documents icon, click on it and then
04:57choose the very first option, Consolidate All, and then you will once again see
05:01that one overarching window with a series of tabs across the top of it and your
05:08images may no longer be centered inside of that area. That's perfectly fine.
05:12You can once again drag with this Hand tool in order to move them to a
05:15different location.
05:16All right, I am going to go ahead and press the Tab key in order to bring back
05:20up my palettes. That is how you arrange windows inside a Photoshop CS4. In the
05:26next exercise, I am going to show you everything you need to know about panning
05:29with the Hand tool.
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Scrolling (aka panning) images
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to move the image inside of the
00:04image window, which is variously known as scrolling or panning, either one is
00:09just fine. And you can scroll the image if you want to, using the scroll
00:13handles that are available to you in the scroll bars. So, there is a scroll bar
00:17over here in the right side of the window and one at the bottom of the window as well.
00:21But while the scroll bars are sometimes useful, you are generally better off
00:25using this tool right here, the Hand tool, and you can select a Hand tool
00:28either by clicking on it or by pressing the H key and then you can just drag
00:32the image to move it around inside the Image window.
00:35In Photoshop CS4, you can also toss the image. So, notice this; if I drag it
00:39and then release, it will move under its own momentum for a moment or two and
00:45you can either give the image a little toss like so or you can give it a big
00:48toss in order to move at a great distance. While this may seem like just sort
00:53of a goofy technique, just that kind of thing that's great for showing off the
00:57program and little else, I actually find it to be enormously helpful, because
01:01it means that I can get from one portion of an image to another portion of an
01:04image very, very quickly.
01:06Now, something you should know about the tossing method is that it requires
01:12OpenGL. So, you have to have a video card that supports OpenGL, you also need
01:16to have a system that supports OpenGL, which means the latest Macintosh system
01:21or Windows Vista or something along those lines.
01:24If you are finding that you can't toss the image, it just means that for
01:27whatever reason, Photoshop is not extending the OpenGL support and that may
01:32mean that your combination of video card and system and Photoshop just don't
01:36support OpenGL or it may mean that you are out of memory, you have got too many
01:40images open, you never know.
01:42All right, so another way to use the Hand tool is to select it using the
01:45Spacebar. So, if I have some tool other than the Hand tool selected, such as
01:49the default tool, the Rectangular Marquee tool here and I press and hold the
01:53Spacebar, I will get the Hand tool on the fly and then I can drag the image
01:57around. I can also go ahead and toss it so I have got the Spacebar down the
02:01entire time I am doing the stuff.
02:03The second I release the Spacebar, I go back to the previously active tool and
02:07this works regardless of, which tool is selected as long as you don't have text
02:11active, because if there is text active then pressing the Spacebar enters a
02:15space character, of course.
02:15All right, a couple of other things I want to show you. I am going to go up to
02:18this Arrange Documents icon here and I am going to switch over to the 4 Up view
02:23so that I can see four of my images at the same time and in this first window,
02:27I want to see Beige beauty. So, these are once again these images from
02:31photographer Alexander Alexis of iStockPhoto.com. The other image that I want
02:37to see, let's see, where is it? It's right there, Night creature. I want to
02:40have it available in one of these four windows.
02:43All right, so I now have these four images on display but I can't really see
02:49the correct portions of each one of these images. This little girl, notice, her
02:53face is in view, so that's great and I could sort of adjust it little bit if I
02:57wanted to by Spacebar dragging.
02:59Now, with this image active, you can see that Radial motion.jpg is indeed the
03:04highlighted tab. With this image active, I can go up to Arrange Documents once
03:08again and I can choose this command, Match Location, and that will go ahead and
03:14scroll the other images into that same relative location. Now, that may work or
03:19it may not work. For example, it works great for Night creature but it doesn't
03:23work so well for Copper profile and then Beige beauty is at a different zoom
03:27ratio. So, she is not working up very well either.
03:29So, I will click in Copper profile and then go ahead and Spacebar drag her into
03:34view and then I will click inside the Beige beauty and Spacebar drag her into
03:38view like so and I might as well click inside Night creature and adjust it as
03:41well. But I just want you to see, you have these Match Location and Match Zoom
03:46available to you as well and we will discuss zooming in a later exercise.
03:50I have gone and clicked inside of Copper profile, so it's now active. I want to
03:53show you one final panning technique. This has been around for a while but
03:58very, very few people know about it. If you press both the Spacebar and the
04:02Shift keys at the same time, so Shift+ Spacebar, and drag inside of an image,
04:07all of the visible images will pan at the same time, which is great if you want
04:15to be able to keep those faces in view but drag them to different locations.
04:20It's especially great if you are looking at multiple versions of the same photo
04:25shoot. You will be amazed how useful this technique is and of course, I can
04:28press Shift+Tab to get rid of my right side palettes right there and I could
04:32Shift+Spacebar-drag some more in order to view more of my images at the same time.
04:37All right, so there you have it. Several different ways to zoom and/or pan
04:42images inside of Photoshop. In the next exercise, we are going to take a look
04:47at zooming. Stay tuned!
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Common ways to zoom
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you some of the most common ways to zoom
00:03an image inside Photoshop. I happened to be looking at the image called White
00:08towell.jpg found inside the 04_navigation folder.
00:12Whenever you first open an image, Photoshop goes ahead and zooms it out far
00:16enough so that you can see the entire image at a glance. To get a sense of what
00:21zoom level you are seeing, you can either look to the value in a lower left
00:24corner of the screen or you can check out the value that's listed in the tab
00:29here and both of them are listing 25%. That means that I am seeing one out of
00:35every four pixels horizontally and one out of every four pixels vertically,
00:41meaning that I am only seeing one out of every 16 pixels.
00:44But Photoshop isn't dropping pixels; it's showing you an average of the real
00:49pixels inside the image in order to give you the best view of the image
00:53possible and this averaging is known as interpolation. Now, the beauty of
00:58Photoshop CS4 is that every zoom is interpolated assuming OpenGL support.
01:04So, let me show you what I mean. If you are feeling like you are too far out
01:08from the image, which aren't real, I mean we are away, too far way from this
01:11image. So, I am going to go the View menu and I would choose the Zoom In
01:15command in order to zoom in and I could choose the command again to zoom in
01:19even farther or I could choose Zoom Out in order to zoom out. Well, now that's
01:25a pain in the neck to have to sit there and choose that command over and over
01:28again all the time.
01:29So, you should definitely memorize a few keyboard shortcuts. Ctrl+Plus or
01:33Command+Plus on the Mac will zoom in; Ctrl+Minus or Command+Minus on the Mac is
01:39going to zoom out. And I am going to go ahead and zoom in pretty far here so
01:43that we are seeing the image at the 100% zoom level, which means that we are
01:46seeing one image pixel for every screen pixel. So it's a 1:1 ratio and of
01:52course, we are getting a great view at that level.
01:54However, I will go ahead and zoom out one click here by pressing Ctrl+Minus or
01:57Command+Minus on the Mac. In Photoshop CS3, 66.7% right here used to be a
02:04terrible view. What would happen is Photoshop would just go ahead and drop
02:08pixels. So, it show you two out of three pixels horizontally and two out of
02:12three pixels vertically but that's only four out of nine pixels. So, it's
02:16showing you four pixels and dropping five for every nine-pixel block and it
02:20would just drop them away and as a result, you would have these really jagged
02:23transitions inside of your screen image but not inside of your real image.
02:28Now, assuming OpenGL support, so assuming Photoshop combined along with your
02:32video card and system supports OpenGL, you are going to see smooth displays at
02:37all zoom ratios. It's really a wonderful thing. A few other options that are
02:42available to you.
02:43You can fit the image on screen by choosing this command right here. Now, we
02:48will go ahead and most likely zoom you out to a point where you can see the
02:51entire image or you can view the image at the 100% view size by choosing Actual
02:57Pixels and you also have keyboard shortcuts for both of those options. It's
03:01Ctrl+0 or Command+0 on the Mac in order to fit the image on screen and it's
03:05Ctrl+1 or Command+1 on the Mac in order to zoom to a 100% and that's new, by
03:11the way. That later keyboard shortcut is new to Photoshop CS4.
03:15You also have the option of double clicking on the Hand tool in order to get to
03:19the fit in window display or double clicking on the Zoom tool right here in
03:24order to get to the 100% zoom ratio. So, a variety of options available to you
03:30for zooming. In the next exercise, I will show you how to zoom into a specific
03:34location using the Zoom tool.
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The smooth, continuous Zoom tool
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to zoom with more precision using
00:03the Zoom tool. I am looking at that Woman with orchids.jpg file that's found
00:09inside the 04_navigation folder and let's say I want to zoom in on this left eye, her right eye, of course.
00:15If I were to press Ctrl+Plus or Command+ Plus to zoom in, I would zoom in on the
00:20center of the image, which happens to be a little bit up and left from one of
00:25her nostrils there. And then I would have to Spacebar+drag in order to center
00:30the eye inside the image window. Not the worst thing on earth but still less
00:34efficient than it might be and definitely less efficient than working with the Zoom tool.
00:38So, I will go ahead and press Ctrl+0 or Command+0 on the Mac to zoom back out
00:42to that Fit in Window view and I will select the Zoom tool at the bottom of the
00:46toolbox, keyboard shortcut Z and then I will click on her eye and notice, every
00:52time I click on her eye, I am centering that eye inside of the Image window.
00:57And if I want to zoom out, I would press the Alt key and click or I were
01:03working on the Mac, I would press the Option key and click like so.
01:06Now, another way to use the Zoom tool is to drag with it. So, let's say, I want
01:10to zoom way in on that eye, I could draw a marquee around it like so, just by
01:15dragging and then everything that's inside of that marquee will zoom in to fill
01:20the window as soon as I release, like so. I could even zoom farther in on her
01:25pupil, for example.
01:27If I zoom in beyond 500%, I will get this pixel grid. Again, this is a function
01:32of OpenGL support inside Photoshop and the pixel grid shows you where one pixel
01:37ends and its neighbor begins, just so that you can keep your pixels straight
01:40when you are doing detailed work on an image.
01:43All right, I am going to press Ctrl+0 or Command+0 on the Mac to zoom out to
01:47that Fit in Window view once again. You can also get to the Zoom tool when some
01:52other tool is selected. So, I will return to my Rectangular Marquee tool, which
01:56has a keyboard shortcut of M incidentally, and then to get the Zoom tool on the
02:02fly, you press Ctrl+Spacebar or at least that's the way it's been.
02:06I will show you a new way inside CS4 in just a moment, but Ctrl and Spacebar
02:11and then click to zoom in. On the Mac, of course, that's
02:15Command+Spacebar-click. And then if you want to zoom out, you press Alt and
02:20Spacebar at the same time and click, or on the Mac you'd press Option and
02:24Spacebar and click.
02:26Now, if you are new to Adobe applications, that's kind of a weird keyboard
02:30shortcut. The good news is that it's consistent across InDesign, Illustrator
02:35and the other applications. The bad news is its just plain weird. There is a
02:39new way of working inside Photoshop CS4 that only works inside Photoshop and
02:44that's to press and hold the Z key.
02:47So, if you just press the Z key, you are going to select the Zoom tool and then
02:52you would have to, for example, press the M key to return to the Rectangular
02:56Marquee. But if you press and hold the Z key, you get the Zoom tool temporarily
03:01as we are seeing here in the Tool Box and then notice this tool up here. All
03:05right, as soon as I release the Z key, it becomes active again.
03:09So, pressing and holding the Z key just gets you to the Zoom tool temporarily
03:13and if I press and hold Z and click, I will zoom in and if I press Z along with
03:19Alt, I could click to zoom out. And that would be Z+Option-click on the Mac in
03:25order to zoom out.
03:27All right, here is a really cool thing. Once again, it requires OpenGL, so
03:32somehow Photoshop and your system need to get together on OpenGL support and if
03:36they do, then you can take advantage of continuous zooms. Check this out; I
03:41will go ahead and click and hold while pressing the Z key and that's zooms in
03:46on the image continuously and now I am seeing the pixel grid as soon as I cross
03:50500%. Of course, you can press Z and Alt at the same time, Z and Option on the
03:58Mac and click and hold to zoom out continuously.
04:02Here is my favorite thing about this technique. If I have the Z key down and I
04:06click and hold, you will start zooming in but then if I add Option or Alt to
04:10the mix, it will zoom back out and then if I release Option or Alt, I will zoom
04:14back in. So, you can do all the stuff on the fly and then go ahead and release
04:18your mouse button when you get to the level of zoomery that you like and then
04:22release the Z key in order to return to your previously active tool.
04:27Every single zoom level, by the way, thanks to OpenGL support, is going to be
04:31absolutely fabulously smooth. One other thing, I am going to press Ctrl+0 or
04:37Command+0 on the Mac to again go out to Fit in Window view, then I will go to
04:40the Edit menu, this would be the Photoshop menu on the Mac. Go down to
04:44Preferences and then choose General or you could just press Ctrl+K, Command+K
04:49on the Mac and notice this option right there, which says, Zoom Clicked Point
04:54to Center.
04:56Now, if you turn it on, then you are going to force Photoshop no matter what,
05:00when you click with the Zoom tool on a point to center the image at that view
05:05and let me show you what that means. I will leave it off for a moment, so you
05:08can see if I were to press the Z key and click on her shoulder, it's not going
05:12to center her shoulder because it's too far down there to the lower region of the image.
05:17So, it's going to take me as far down as it can without exposing any of the
05:22pasteboard back here. So, it's doing what it considers to be a reasonable job
05:27of centering. Let's go ahead and press Ctrl+0 again. Whereas if I press Ctrl+K
05:34or Command+K on the Mac and say, you know what, I really want this. I want to
05:38go ahead and center it no matter what and click OK. Then if I Z-click down in
05:44the lower right region of the image, I am going to go ahead and center that
05:47location. So, I force a centering.
05:49So, it's completely up to you how you decide to work. I have found over time, I
05:54prefer to have this option turned off, which is its default setting. So, I am
05:58going to press Ctrl+K, Command+K on the Mac and turn off this option. Look!
06:02There is your Flick Panning. That's what Photoshop calls that function where
06:05you can toss the image with the Hand tool.
06:08All right, I will go ahead and click OK in order to accept that default setting
06:14and that is everything there is to know about using the Zoom tool in Photoshop CS4.
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Zooming inside free-floating windows
00:00So far I have showed you a variety of ways in which Adobe has improved the
00:04navigation experience here inside Photoshop CS4. Now I am going to show you a
00:08way in which they have gummed things up. They have changed the behavior of
00:12zooming inside a free-floating window in a way that I do not condone at all. So
00:17I will show you what the new behavior is and then I will show you a workaround.
00:20Now I want to make sure that we are all in the same page here. So I am going to
00:23press Ctrl+K or Command+K on the Mac in order to bring up the Preferences
00:27dialog box. Recall that in the previous chapter, I recommended you turn off
00:31Zoom Resizes Windows. So turn that check box off on both the Mac and the PC.
00:36That way things are ironically going to work better for you. You see will what I mean.
00:39And the thing is this option, this check box right here, not only affects the
00:44zoom commands, the way it has in the past but it also affects the behavior of
00:49the Zoom tool. That's why it's important to have it turned off. But I am going
00:52to turn it on for just a moment, so I can show you how wacky things will become.
00:57So I will go and turn that check box on, click OK and now I am going to grab
01:01this tab right here and I am going to drag it. Notice that I only have Women
01:06with orchids open. That's the only image I have opened for this exercise just
01:10for the sake of simplicity. And I going to drop the tab in order to create a
01:14free floating window right there and now note, if I were to press Ctrl+Minus or
01:18Command - on the Mac, I am not only zooming out from the image but I am also
01:22reducing the size of the window and then if I were to press Ctrl+Plus or
01:26Command + on the Mac, I would both zoom in and increase the size of window to
01:31accommodate.
01:32Now this also affects the behavior of the Zoom tool. So I will grab the Zoom
01:36tool by clicking on it, just so that we can see its option up here in the
01:39Option Bar. And you will see that Resize Windows To Fit is turned on just as it
01:44is inside of the Preferences dialog box. All right, so now if I zoom in on her,
01:49she expands, she and the window get bigger and then if I Alt-click or
01:54Option-click on the Mac in order to zoom out, the window zooms out too.
01:58Now the commands, that is, the Ctrl+ Plus and the Ctrl+Minus in the Zoom tool,
02:02didn't used to be in lock step with each other. So you could zoom the window by
02:06pressing Ctrl+Plus but then if you wanted to keep the window the same size and
02:10then zoom in with the Zoom tool, you could just click with the Zoom tool. So
02:13that you have that option, nowadays you don't.
02:15So notice if I go up here to the Options Bar and turn off Resize Windows To Fit
02:20and then I press Ctrl+K or Command+K on the Mac in order to bring up the
02:24Preferences dialog box once again, this check box got turned off as well. So as
02:28I say, now they are in lock step with each other. I can't believe they made
02:32this decision, I just think it's absolutely backwards but I am going to go
02:35ahead and cancel out. So they basically took a great function and they fixed it.
02:40So now we now have the proper behavior and so far as I am concerned with the
02:44Zoom tool, so I can click to zoom in without affecting the window size or I can
02:48Alt-click or Option-click in order to zoom out again without affecting the
02:53window size. But if I press Ctrl+Minus or Command+Minus on the Mac or Ctrl+Plus
02:58or Command+Plus on the Mac, I am not affecting the window size either.
03:02So how do you get the old behavior back, in other words you want to zoom
03:06without affecting the window with the Zoom tool but you want to be able to zoom
03:11both the window and the image when you are using your keyboard shortcuts. Well
03:16let me show you. We now turned off the check box, so the Zoom tool is taking
03:19care of this. We can zoom with the Zoom tool without resizing the window.
03:22All right, I will go back to a different tool now and I am going to show you
03:25the keyboard shortcut that you want to be aware of. Ctrl+Alt+Minus or
03:29Command+Option+Minus on the Mac will zoom both the image and the window. And
03:35then Ctrl+Alt+Plus or Command+Option+ Plus on the Mac is going to zoom in and
03:41expand the window as well. So those are your new keyboard tricks that you want
03:45to bear in mind anytime. Now that we have turned off that check box, we need to
03:49use the Option or Alt key in order to resize that window.
03:52So once again, just to make sure we all understand, Ctrl+Alt+Minus to zoom out
03:57with the window, Ctrl+Alt+Plus to zoom in with the window. And on the Mac that's
04:02Command+Option+Minus and Command+Option +Plus. And there you have it. For those
04:07of you who are working inside of the independent windows, that's how you
04:09control the size of the window as you zoom inside of Photoshop CS4.
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Viewing the image at print size
00:00Photoshop offers one more command under the View menu that allows you to zoom
00:04the image. And it is this command right there, the Print Size command, which
00:08ostensibly shows you the image as the exact size it will print. All right, so
00:14before I choose the command, I want to figure out how big it is in the first
00:17place, just to give you a sense of what's going on here.
00:19So, I am going to go up to the Image menu and choose the Image Size command,
00:24which is one of the core features inside of the software. It shows you the
00:28resolution of the image, it shows you the physical dimensions of, which it will
00:32output. It allows you to scale the image if you want to. And we are going to be
00:36discussing this command at length in the future chapter, but for now, I am just
00:40going to go ahead and choose it.
00:42I see that the resolution of the image is 300 pixels/inch, which is all very
00:46well and good. You'll learn more about what that means later. But here is the
00:49important stuff where this demonstration is concerned. The image measures 12
00:53inches wide by 8 inches tall. All right, so good to know, I'll cancel out this
00:58dialog box.
00:59Now, let's go up to the View menu and choose the Print Size command. Now,
01:05Photoshop, are you really telling me that, that is 12 inches wide? I mean I
01:10could get out of ruler and I could prove you wrong. That is not a 12 inches
01:14wide image that I am seeing on screen there and if you were to actually print
01:18the image and then hold it up to your screen image, you would see that the two
01:22don't match at all. In fact, the screen image will look much smaller than the
01:26output image. The reason is that Photoshop is assuming quite foolishly that the
01:32resolution of your screen is 72 pixels/inch, which hasn't been the case
01:37forever, since the Macintosh Classic back in the 80s.
01:42Modern day screens can display somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-120
01:45pixels/inch, which means that the image is going to look a lot bigger than this
01:51when it actually prints. So, if you are interested in using the Print Size
01:55command and using it accurately, then you have to do a little legwork; you have
01:59to figure out exactly what your screen resolution is and then plug that
02:03information into Photoshop. Here is how you do it.
02:06I've got this image open called Screen resolution.tif and I am going to go
02:10ahead and switch to the full-screen display here. I'll tell you how I did that
02:13later before we finish off this chapter. But for now, this is a diagram of how
02:18you go about figuring out the resolution of your screen. So, this information
02:21up here just repeats stuff I've already told you. What we are looking at here
02:25is a diagram of a MacBook Pro, a 17- inch MacBook Pro. So, it measures 17 inches
02:31diagonally, which means that it measures, and I had to figure this out by
02:35getting out of ruler and measuring it. And I am measuring the imageable area,
02:38by the way, the area that actually shows the image. Part of that screen is
02:43black as you can see, so you don't measure that; you measure the part that is
02:47capable of displaying the image. And that happens to be 14.4 inches wide for
02:51this particular screen, and 9 inches tall.
02:53All right, so, then you check what the resolution of your screen is. In other
02:59words, this is a different use of the word Resolution, but in another words,
03:03how many pixels it's displaying. And you can figure that out viewing your
03:07Display Control panel on the PC, or your Display System perhaps on the Mac. And
03:12the default setting for a MacBook Pro is 1680X1050 pixels.
03:17So, we know that the width of the screen in inches is 14.4 and the pixels is
03:211680. So, we take 1680 and divide it by 14.4, and that's 117 pixels fitting in
03:29an inch. And then if you want to just confirm things, you would run that same
03:33calculation with the height. So, if I divide 1050 by 9 inches, I'll get again
03:39something in the neighborhood of 117 pixels/inch. I believe it's actually 116
03:44and two-thirds or something along those lines. So, that's our resolution, a 117
03:48pixels/inch, imagining that I am working on a MacBook Pro, which of course I am
03:52not, because I am showing you Window Vista, but still.
03:54All right, so let's go back to our Woman with Orchids image right there. Let's
03:59plug in that value. I'll go to the Edit menu; on the Mac, you would go to the
04:03Photoshop menu. Choose the Preferences command and then choose Units & Rulers.
04:08And then notice this option right there, Screen Resolution, 72 pixels/inch sure
04:14enough. Change it to 117 or whatever you find to be the resolution of your
04:19screen and if you don't get it exactly right, don't sweat it. As long as you
04:22are in the right vicinity, as long as you are within a couple of 3 pixels/inch
04:28of the exact accurate number, then you'll be just fine, and click OK.
04:34Now, notice if I go to the View menu and choose Print Size, I get a very
04:39different impression of my image and this is now accurate for that specific
04:45screen. So, that's how you use the Print Size command to gauge the actual
04:50printed appearance of your image inside Photoshop.
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Contextualized (bird's-eye) scrolling
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you two different methods of
00:04contextualized scrolling. That is, how do you scroll around inside of an image
00:08while having a sense of where in the world you are. Allow me to demonstrate.
00:13I am working inside of this Woman with orchids.jpg image, found inside the
00:1604_navigation folder. Let's say, I go ahead and do that Z-click and Hold
00:22technique, where I am zooming continuously on this women's eye. I zoom in to
00:28400% as it turns out, just a little bit over, 400.22% in my case. Now, I want
00:34to take a look at one of the flowers.
00:37Now, I was just like seconds ago was looking at the entire image. I couldn't
00:41even tell you how many flowers there are, let alone where they are inside the
00:44image. I think there is one that's down into the right of where of I am.
00:47So what I'll do is Spacebar toss, and yup! They are over here in some place, I
00:51keep tossing it around and I finally find the center of the flower right there
00:55at the pistil or the stem and whatever in the world it is. But, now let's say,
01:00I want to move to a different flower or I just want to figure out what I am
01:03looking at, so I need some contacts at this point.
01:06Well, what we tend to do is zoom out and then kind of scroll around a little
01:11bit and then zoom back in to a different location. But there are more efficient
01:14ways to work, one of, which is Old School, and the other of, which is new to
01:19Photoshop CS4, and I think knock you socks off if you haven't seen it before.
01:23So we'll start with the Old School technique, because I'm all about the drama.
01:27There is this Navigator palette right there, which you can get by clicking on
01:31this ship's wheel right here, or you can go up to the Window menu and you can
01:36choose Navigator.
01:38Notice that we are seeing this tiny red rectangle. If I press Ctrl+Minus or
01:44Command+Minus on the Mac a couple of times to zoom further out, you'll see that
01:48rectangle little larger. That little red rectangle demonstrates the boundaries
01:52of my image window. To get in even better sense of what's going on inside that
01:57tiny little preview there, I can make it bigger. I can actually, drag this
02:00lower left corner in order to get a big navigator view of my image.
02:06Now, I know exactly where I am. I can just go ahead and drag the view to a
02:11different location, to this flower right here for example, and there it is on
02:14screen. Then I would bring the Navigator palette back up on screen and I would
02:18drag this item to this location right there. Then I would hide the Navigator
02:22palette once again so I can see what I am doing, and there is that flower. So
02:26that's one way to work. That's especially useful if you have a second monitor
02:30and you can put the Navigator palette over on that other monitor.
02:34You also have this technique available to you right here; with the Navigator
02:39palette open, you can press and hold the Ctrl key or the Command key on the
02:42Mac, and then marquee the portion of the image that you want to zoom in on. So
02:48notice when I press Ctrl or Command, I get this little Zoom tool. Then drag to
02:51define a marquee and then you will zoom and scroll to that location.
02:56Navigator palette, all very wonderful, been there forever. I am going to go
02:59ahead and zoom further in because I want to show you the new function. This at
03:04one point was known as the Bird's Eye View, and I don't know why they decided
03:07to change it to what they are calling it now. But I think Bird's Eye is a
03:10fantastic name for it, because that's what it does. It gives you a bird's eye
03:13view of the image.
03:14You press and hold the H key, funky technique by the way, but it works. Press
03:19and hold the H key, which temporally gets you the Hand tool. But when you click
03:23with this particular variation of the Hand tool, you are going to zoom out from
03:27the image like so, and you get this like Navigator palette on the fly and then
03:32you drag your view of the image to a different location and release, and there you go.
03:37If that's not where you want to be, you press and hold the H key again, click
03:40and then go to a different location inside the image and release. Then, of
03:45course, release the H key in order to return to your previously active tool.
03:50So there is your wacky but highly useful Bird's Eye function new to Photoshop CS4.
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Nudging the screen image
00:00All right, now for a handful of obscure zooming and scrolling techniques that
00:04are nonetheless useful, we will start with how you can nudge the screen image
00:08using the Page Up and Page Down keys. So this is a scrolling technique. I am
00:13taking up where I left off at the end of the previous exercise that is zoomed
00:17in on one of the flowers from the Women with orchid.jpeg file from the
00:2104_navigation folder and I am zoomed in to the 300% zoom level.
00:26If I press the Page Up key, I will jump exactly one screen image up inside of
00:32the image. If I press Page down, I will scroll exactly one screen downward. If
00:38I want to go left or right, then I press Ctrl+Page Up to go left one screen or
00:44I press Ctrl+Page Down to go right one screen. On the Mac this is Command+Page
00:49Up to go left and Command+Page Down to go right.
00:53What if you want to move in smaller increments? Then you add the Shift Key to
00:56the mix. So this is Shift+Page Up and I am pressing it several times in a row
01:00here and this is Shift+Page Down and you can incidentally press and hold these
01:05keys. So this is what happens if you press and hold Shift+Page Up, this is what
01:10happens if you press and hold Shift+Page Down.
01:13You can also press Ctrl+Shift+Page Up to nudge to the left or Ctrl+Shift+Page
01:19Down to nudge to the right. This would be Command+Shift+Page Up and
01:24Command+Shift+Page Down on the Mac and of course you can press and hold those
01:27keys as well if you like.
01:29And finally, if you want to go to the top left corner of the image, you press
01:32the Home key. And so we are all the way zoomed in to the top left corner,
01:37although it's a little hard to tell. Let's go ahead and zoom out just a little
01:40bit so that we can tell where in the world we are and I will press the Home key again.
01:43All right, so this is the top left corner at this zoom level. If I want to go
01:47to the bottom right corner of the image I press the End key and so there you
01:52have it. That's how you nudge the screen image using your Page Up, Page Down,
01:57Home and End keys.
01:59In the next exercise, I am going to show you all the stuff you can do with the
02:02scroll wheel on your mouse, which as it turns out is a lot. Stay tuned.
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Scroll wheel tricks
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how you can scroll and zoom an image
00:04using the scroll wheel on your mouse, assuming of course that you have a scroll
00:08wheel on your mouse.
00:09I am still working inside the Woman with orchids.jpg file inside the
00:1404_navigation folder. I am zoomed in to the 100% zoom ratio. And we will start
00:19with the basics. If you will scroll up with your mouse wheel, you will scroll
00:23up inside the image. And if you will scroll down, you will scroll down. So
00:26there is not big surprises there. Now if you are working with one of those
00:30fancy mice that you can push the wheel back and forth, that is to the left or
00:34to the right, including that little blister that's at the top of the Apple
00:38Mighty Mouse. Then Photoshop is smart enough to scroll lest and right. However,
00:43if your mouse doesn't do that, then you will press and hold the Ctrl key or the
00:47Cmd key on the Mac, and you will scroll up to go to the left and you will
00:50scroll down to go to the right.
00:53What if you want to scroll fast? Then you will press the Shift key. So this is
00:57going up with Shift, this is going down with Shift. And you can add the Ctrl
01:02key or the Cmd key to scroll wicked fast to the left or to the right. So I have
01:07got both Ctrl and Shift down. This would be Cmd and Shift down on the Macintosh
01:13side of things. All right, so I have scrolled a little too far to the right in
01:16this case. So I will go ahead and press the Ctrl key or the Cmd on the Mac and
01:19scroll upward a little bit in order to center her eyes on screen.
01:24Now it's telling you that you can also zoom with the scroll wheel. That's a
01:28function of pressing the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac. So if I have Alt
01:32or Option down and I will scroll up, I will zoom in. And if I scroll down, I
01:37will zoom out. So those are myriad ways you can scroll and zoom using the
01:41scroll wheel on your mouse.
01:42If you want to reverse the behavior, by the way, of what I just showed you, you
01:46would like the scroll wheel to zoom by default and then you have to press the
01:49Alt key or the Option key in order to scroll. Then go ahead and press Ctrl+K or
01:54Cmd+K on the Mac because that's the easiest way to get to the Preferences
01:57dialog box. And then turn on this check box right there, Zoom with Scroll Wheel
02:02and that will become your default action. Anyway, I am not going to do that but
02:05I just want you to know that that's available to those of you who would like to
02:08work that way. And I will go ahead and cancel out of this dialog box because I
02:11didn't do anything. There you have it.
02:14Your ways to scroll with the scroll wheel. In the next exercise, I am going to
02:17show you how to use this little zoom value down here in the lower left hand
02:21corner of the screen.
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Using the numerical zoom value
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to take advantage of this zoom
00:04value down here in the lower left hand corner of the Image window.
00:07Now I happen to be looking at the image called Beige beauty.jpg, found inside
00:11the 04-navigation folder. Once again, from photographer Alexander Alexis of
00:16iStockPhoto.com. And I happen to be zoomed in to the 50% zoom level. And if I
00:21know a zoom level that I want to use, I could go down here to this value,
00:26double click on it in order to select the entire value because otherwise,
00:30if you will just click, then you have to press the Backspace key a few times
00:33to get rid of the old value. So double click on the value to select it and then
00:36replace it with a value that you prefer to use, which can be highly accurate. I
00:40could enter 77.77% and then press the Enter key or the Return key on a Mac. And
00:46long behold, I have zoomed in to exactly that level. Here the thing though.
00:50Who in the World knows that information? You never know that you want to zoom
00:54in exactly to 77.77%. That's not the way we work. So it might seem like this
01:01particular zooming function is a little bit too obscure. Well, I tend to use it
01:05to find that exact zoom level that's going to be a perfect match of showing the
01:10image inside of the Image window. So in other words, we are showing as much of
01:15the image as possible without showing any excess gray pasteboard.
01:19So if I would have pressed Ctrl+0 or Command+0 on the Mac in order to that fit
01:23in window view, then Photoshop is going to take me a little farther out than it
01:28really needs to. It's not only going to show me, in my case, a bunch of excess
01:33paste board at the top and the bottom of the image, it can't really get around
01:36that; but it's going to show me a little extra on the left and right hand side
01:40as if to tell me, hey! By the way, I have got you covered; you really can't see
01:44your entire image. And it happens to have zoomed out to this custom level, in
01:48my case, of 24.17%.
01:51So you might think well, zoom in. When I will press Ctrl+ (+) or Command+(+) on
01:55the Mac, well, my first zoom in here gets me to 25%. So it's just a tiny zoom.
02:02And then if I press Ctrl+ (+) or Command + (+) again, I will go too far. I mean
02:06there is something in the middle there that's actually going to work out for
02:09me. So here is what you will do. You will double click on the value for
02:13starters because if you just click and you just set the insertion marker, then
02:16you are going to have to do some backspacing. So double click in it to select
02:20the entire value and then try a different value if you want to like I enter 30,
02:24and press the Enter key, and I don't know if that works or not. And of course,
02:28that switches me to the 30% view size but I don't know if that's the right zoom
02:32level or not. So I will double click inside there again, and I will press the
02:36Down Arrow key to nudge that value down 1% or you can press the Up Arrow key to
02:41nudge it up a percent. You also can press Shift+Down Arrow to nudge it down 10%
02:45or Shift+Up Arrow to nudge it up 10% just FYI.
02:49But notice that changing the value, I am nudging it down here, doesn't actually
02:52have an immediate effect on the image. You will have to apply this percentage
02:56by pressing the Enter key on a PC or the Return key on a Mac. And I have gone
03:00out too far. So here is the best way to work. Double click inside that value
03:05once again, I am going to nudge it up by pressing the Up Arrow key a couple of
03:08times. I don't know if 28% is going to be right so I'll press Shift+Enter or
03:13Shift+Return on the Mac to apply that value without deactivating it.
03:19And then if I decide Gosh! I wonder 28% definitely works but I wonder if 20%
03:24would still work. So I will press the Down Arrow key to nudge it down and then
03:28press Shift+Enter or Shift+Return. And I see nope! That reveals some stuff at
03:32the top there so I will stick with 28%. And I will go ahead and nudge it up
03:36again. And I will press the Enter key or the Return key on a Mac to not only
03:40apply the value but also deactivate this option. Then I will just go ahead
03:44Spacebar+Drag the image up a little bit in order to nudge into the desired location.
03:50So it's sort of nit-picky but I just want you to know if you ever decide to use
03:54that value, that's how you would best apply it. Double click, use the Up and
03:58Down Arrow keys to nudge that value and then press Shift+Enter or Shift+Return
04:03on the Mac to apply that value while keeping it active.
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The new Rotate View tool
00:00All right, that's it for scrolling and zooming inside of Photoshop, but there is
00:03one remaining navigation feature that's new to Photoshop CS4 and that's the Rotate View tool.
00:10I am working inside this image called White towell.jpg found inside the
00:1304_navigation folder. But I still have open all those other images from
00:17photographer Alexander Alexis as well. Now notice up here in the Applications
00:21bar that we have this Hand tool, which is exactly the same Hand tool that's
00:26available to us inside of the Toolbox. And then there is a Zoom tool, which is
00:29exactly the same Zoom tool that's available to us inside of the Toolbox. And
00:33then there is a new Rotate View tool. I am going to click on it in order to
00:36select it. And that's the same as clicking and holding on what was formerly the
00:41Hand tool here inside the Toolbox, and then selecting Rotate View tool from the
00:46flyout menu. Notice is has a keyboard shortcut of R.
00:48Now as I rotate the image, I want you to watch the Rotation Angle value up here
00:53in Options bar because it updates on the fly. And it's showing us that I have
00:58now rotated the image to 30 degrees, for example. I am also seeing a compass in
01:03the center of the image, which is telling me that I have got something
01:07resembling a 30-degree rotation. So there is different ways to confirm the
01:11angle of your rotation. When you will release, you have now rotated the image
01:16on screen, you haven't rotated the actual image. It's still going to print
01:20upright, it's still going to save upright, it's still going to export upright,
01:24which means that everything you do at this 30 degree angle inside of the image
01:29is going to occur at an angle.
01:31So, for example, if I will grab my rectangular Marquee tool here, which draws
01:36rectangular selections, upright rectangles, and I drag. We are seeing an angled
01:42rectangle because we are operating inside of a rotated view. So that's just
01:47something to bear in mind, your task is going to be at an angle, everything,
01:50everything is going to occur at an angle at this point.
01:53So you may find it a little confusing at first but here is where I think this
01:56view is just phenomenally useful. If you are painting inside of an image, you
01:59can get into certain areas. That's pretty obvious. So it's just like rotating a
02:03physical page on a physical desktop. It also comes in handy when you are
02:08editing an image using the likes of the Dodge and Burn tools as we will see in
02:11later chapters.
02:13And then finally, if you are trying to gauge the proper angle for a crooked
02:16image, you can preview the rotation on the fly using this tool. All right, so I
02:21am going to go ahead and click outside this selection to de-select it. A few
02:26other things we should note about this tool. I am going to go ahead and select
02:29it once again. And notice that we have got up here in the Options bar, this
02:33Rotate All Windows checkbox. So if I switch to a different image window, you
02:37will see that it remains upright. This Copper profile.jpg file, she is straight
02:42up and down.
02:42I will switch back White towell. If I will turn On Rotate All Windows that end
02:49of itself isn't going to do anything. So I will switch back to the White
02:52towell.jpg. It's if I now apply a little bit of rotation, any degree of
02:57rotation at all, and I am still working at an angle of 30 degrees, notice that.
03:01Now if I go over the Copper profile, it is indeed rotated, as is my Radial
03:06motion image. So it's harder to tell with her because she is sort of in the
03:09process of rotating her head anyway. And then we have got Woman with orchids at
03:13an obvious angle, we have seen so much of her.
03:16All right, so back to White towell.jpg. Your other options for rotating the
03:20image are to modify the Rotation Angle value, or you can drag this little guy
03:25right there in order to change the angle of rotation. And of course, I am
03:29rotating all open images right now on screen, nothing is really happening to
03:35them. To reset the images to straight up and down; if I want to affect all of
03:39the images as I do, then make sure the Rotate All Windows checkbox is On; and
03:43then click on Reset View. And now not only she is restored to straight up and
03:47down but so is Copper profile, so is Radial motion, so is Woman with orchids,
03:51and so on.
03:52All right back to White towell. Here is how do all that stuff from the keyboard
03:57so without having to switch tools like I just did. I am going to go ahead reset
04:01this tool to the Hand tool, for example. And then I will click on the
04:04rectangular Marquee tool so I have some other tool selected. Press and hold the
04:09R key to get the Rotate View tool on a fly. Now as long as you have that R key
04:13down, you can see the options up here in the Options bar and you can see that
04:16Rotate All Windows is turned on. If you want to leave it that way, fine. You
04:20can also turn it off though. But just keep that R key down as long as you want
04:24to work with the tool.
04:24All right, I am going to leave this checkbox on for just a moment because I
04:27want you to see something. And I am now going to drag, I still have the R key
04:31down, I am going to drag with the tool in order to apply a 35% rotation in this
04:36case. Then I will release the mouse button. And then as soon as I release the R
04:40key, I go back to my previously selected tool. Now I go to Copper profile, she
04:45is rotated, Radial motion is rotated, Woman with orchids is rotated, and so on.
04:50Back to White towell once again.
04:52Now at this point, how in the World do I restore her to rightness because we
04:58don't have a Reset View button anymore? Well, here is all you will do. You will
05:02just press the Esc key. Just pressing Escape under normal circumstances, that
05:07is there is no task to active, nothing like that going on, we don't have a
05:10dialog box open. In absence of anything else to escape out of when you will
05:15press the Esc key, you will restore the image to straight up and down. But only
05:19the active image. If I switch back to Copper profile, she is still rotated. And
05:23if I switch back to Radial motion, and so on here, they are still rotated as
05:27well. How do I get them back to straight up and down?
05:32Then what you will need to do is press and hold the R key, and make sure that
05:36the Rotate All Windows checkbox is on, and then click on Reset View. And now
05:41you can release the R key in order to return to your previously selected tool.
05:45And now go back and look at each one of these images is restored to it's
05:50straight up and down appearance. And then if you decide in the future you don't
05:54actually want to rotate all open images, you will press and hold the R key and
05:58go ahead and turn off that Rotate All Windows checkbox, and then release
06:02the R key once again.
06:04So that R key is pretty powerful when you are rotating the view of your image
06:09here inside Photoshop CS4.
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Cycling between screen modes
00:00In this final exercise, I am going to show you the screen modes that are
00:03available to you inside of Photoshop CS4, and I mention CS4 because things have
00:09changed since CS3.
00:11Now, I have the usual suspects opened here, those same six images that are found
00:15inside the 04_navigation folder that come to us from photographer Alexander
00:19Alexis of iStockphoto.com, and I am currently at the image called white
00:23towell.jpeg for what that's worth.
00:26Now first you should note, if you have any experience with Photoshop
00:29whatsoever, the screen modes used to be available to us at the bottom of the
00:32toolbox. They have moved. And they have moved up here to the Application bar.
00:38So it's going to be more like in this region of the screen on the Mac.
00:41And if I click on the Screen Mode icon right there, notice we have the Standard
00:45screen mode, which allows me to see the tabs for all of my image titles as well
00:50as the scroll bars and this little empty area down here below this column of
00:55palette buttons.
00:57And then, we have the Full Screen With Menu Bar, which goes ahead and hides all
01:01of that stuff, so we are no longer seeing the names of our opened images nor we
01:05are seeing the scroll bars, and we are allowing the image to tuck under the
01:08palettes.
01:10And then, we have this final Full Screen mode, which goes ahead and wipes out
01:14everything, except for the image itself, and if you choose this command, you
01:19are going to get this alert message that tells you what's happening, which is
01:24to say that you are entering this mode or you are not going to see anything on
01:27screen, and if you want to bring things back, here is how you do it, but I am
01:30going to tell you so.
01:31You can go ahead and say Don't Show Again to this message and click on Full
01:35Screen. And now you are going to see the image take up the entire screen, and
01:39the interesting thing is I can still work inside of the image if I want to, as
01:44long as I know, for example, my keyboard shortcuts, and all the other stuff
01:47that you are going to learn over the course of the series, or you can just take
01:50in the image.
01:51Now of course, you don't want to freak out at this point because you are going
01:54to always restore everything that's gone, and there is two ways to restore
01:58things. One is to press the Tab key, which will bring back the palettes and the
02:03menu bar, notice that. So everything that we just get rid off a moment ago got
02:06restored. And if you want to go ahead and hide that stuff, you press the Tab
02:10key again.
02:11If you want to bring back just the right side palettes, then you press
02:15Shift+Tab, and of course, you can press Shift+Tab again to make those go away.
02:19To get out of this mode inside Photoshop CS4, you press the Esc key, so that
02:25will take you back into the tabbed window display. Now I have tabbed away my
02:30palettes, so I need to bring them back as well by pressing the Tab key, and we
02:34are now back in what is known as the Standard screen mode here inside Photoshop CS4.
02:39Now if you come from CS3, you might remember that there used to be yet another
02:44mode that allowed you to see the images inside floating windows, and that
02:49appears to be gone. Well, it's actually still there, but it's available to you
02:53from the Arrange Documents icon.
02:55So if I click in that icon and I choose Float All in Windows, then I am going
03:00to see every single one of the images in an independent floating Image window,
03:05and I can drag it to a different location like so. And of course, these Image
03:08windows are going to appear on top of the docked palettes. Only floating
03:13palettes are going to be allowed to appear in front of the floating windows.
03:17If that's not what you want, and I am telling you, I don't think you are going
03:20to want to work this way. It's the old school way, as might be comfortable to a
03:25lot of you, but the new way in my opinion is much better, and to get back to
03:29it, you go back up to that Arranged Documents icon, and you choose Consolidate
03:33All to put everybody back inside of the tabbed window.
03:37You can do what I showed you a moment ago. That is, switch between the various
03:40screen modes from the keyboard just by pressing the F key and that's F as in
03:45Full Screen. So pressing F once switches you to the Full Screen With Menu Bar
03:50as it's known, and then pressing F again switches you to the radical Full
03:54Screen where everything else goes away. And then press F again to advance back
03:59to where we started. Or you can go directly from the tabbed window display to
04:04the dangerous Full Screen display where you see nothing by pressing Shift+F.
04:09And so Shift+F goes the opposite direction in other words.
04:12Now what's great about this is you can show images like a mad person, right?
04:17You can sit here and once you have hidden all of the falderal and you
04:20want to show up your images to somebody, I would press Ctrl+Tab here on the PC
04:25in order to advance from one image to the next. Or on the Mac, I could press
04:30Command+Tilde in order to go from one image to the next here.
04:34It's a great way to work, and then just all you need to remember is that you
04:37can bring everything back just by pressing either Esc or the F key and that
04:43will take you back to your save tabbed window view, where you have excess to
04:47all of your palettes, and all of your menu functions as well.
04:51There you have it in a nutshell how to navigate inside of Photoshop. In the
04:57next chapter, we will take a look at a few basic color corrections.
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5. Basic Color Correction
Making drab colors look better
00:01Over the course of this series, we will examine the many different ways to
00:04correct a photograph in the order these corrections are best applied.
00:08This means that in addition to telling you how to use Photoshop tools and
00:12commands to their utmost ability, I will answer a rarely addressed question,
00:16when should you do what? Because every change you make to an image builds on the
00:21previous adjustments, sequence makes the difference.
00:25The most basic corrections you will need to make are brightness and color
00:28corrections. We will start with a look at the Brightness/Contrast command.
00:32Traditionally it's been something of an image destroyer but now it's quite good.
00:36Then I will demonstrate how to read and use a Histogram. After that, we will
00:41see ways to correct color cast using the Color Balance and Variations commands.
00:46Then, we will wrap things up with Hue, Saturation, Vibrance, and the new Target
00:51Adjustment tool, which lets you adjust the range of colors just by clicking and dragging.
00:57All of these adjustments are best applied before you resize or crop a photo,
01:02which is why I wait to discuss resizing and cropping until the next two chapters.
01:07Amend each attribute of your troubled photograph in the order suggested by
01:11these chapters and I swear to you, the results will look as good as they
01:15possibly can. This is how the pros do it.
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Brightness and contrast
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you what has to be the most basic of the
00:04basic color correction functions inside Photoshop, which is the
00:08Brightness/Contrast command.
00:10It allows you to modify the Brightness with one slider and the Contrast with
00:14the other and bang! You are done. Very easy command to use. Possibly, given
00:18that this is the first sort of venture into actually correcting an image in the software.
00:23A typical trainer I think would just go up there and he would say, you know,
00:26here is this image, got it open, go up to the Image menu, we will choose
00:29Adjustments, we will choose Brightness/Contrast and look at this.
00:33Lickety split. You can just change the Brightness with this slider, you can change
00:37the Contrast with this slider. You have got a beautiful looking image.
00:39It's much better than it was before. Here is before, here is after. Isn't that an
00:44easy command to use?
00:45I could do that and I just did for all intents and purposes but I don't think
00:49that's the best way to show you what's going on. So, we are going to delve into
00:53this command a little bit.
00:54First I am going to start off by just showing how it works in this exercise. In
00:58the next exercise, we are going to look under the hood a little bit. And it
01:01gets a little scary when we do that but I am doing it for a specific reason; I
01:05want you to learn how to use Photoshop correctly in the first place so that you
01:09are not having that undo bad habits later on down the line or regret the
01:13decisions you made in the past because when an image needs help like this one
01:17right here, it's very easy to overcompensate and give it too much help and when
01:22you overcompensate in Photoshop, you damage the image.
01:25All right, so let's start over again, I have got this image open, beautiful
01:29image from photographer Sue McDonald of iStockPhoto.com. It's a little washed
01:34out though. It has a very ethereal feel to it of course, and the name of the
01:39image is Ethereal dove.jpeg.
01:42So you do want to go up to the Image menu, you do want to choose the
01:45Adjustments command, and notice the Adjustments command gives you access to all
01:49of the color adjustment functions here inside Photoshop, and then you will
01:53choose this very first one, Brightness/Contrast.
01:56Now I like this command so much these days; it used to be a stinker of a
01:59command back in the old days but the last version of Photoshop made it
02:02considerably better. I like it so much that I have gone ahead and given it a
02:06keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+Alt+B or Command+Option+B on the Mac. And that brings
02:12up this dialog box right here.
02:14As I said two simple sliders, it got a checkbox, this Preview checkbox to keep
02:18an eye on what's going on back here in the background so that's what your
02:21preview is and your preview is a 100% accurate. It's actually just applying the
02:25command on the fly. So it's not some kind of proxy preview. You really are
02:28seeing what you are doing.
02:29Now we have got this Use Legacy checkbox, leave that off. By the way if you
02:34turn it on, all you do is you make Brightness/Contrast perform like it used to
02:37in the old days back when it was a terrible command. So better to leave it off.
02:41So it's performing well.
02:43And then, we have got Brightness and Contrast sliders. In Brightness, what it's
02:47really doing, it's elevating the middle colors inside the image. So you have
02:53the brightest colors, which are known as highlights and you have the darkest
02:56colors, which are known as shadows and then you have the colors in between and
03:01brightness is changing the colors in between it.
03:03It anchors down the brightest colors, so highlights it, anchors down the
03:06shadows, the darkest colors, so that it doesn't really know colors and then it
03:10just modifies everything in between, squeezes them.
03:12So if you make the image brighter, you are going to elevate those middle
03:16colors. Well, we don't need that inside of this image. We elevate the middle
03:20colors and we are just losing all kinds of definition inside this image. We
03:24want to make those middle colors so as mid-tones as they are known. We want to
03:27make them darker and so I am going to go ahead and drag the sky down and I can
03:31actually go pretty far. I can go all the way in fact to -150 for this image and
03:37still it retains a lot of detail. But if I do that, I am going to create what's
03:40known as posterization.
03:42I will go ahead and zoom in here and I am doing this by pressing Ctrl+Spacebar
03:46and clicking, or Command+Spacebar- clicking on the Mac. I will go ahead and
03:49actually zoom in way far. And you can see that weird green that's showing up
03:54right there inside of this cloud and this weird red and so on? That's
03:59posterization, which is incredibly sharp transitions between neighboring
04:04colors and it's a very bad thing and it means you've wounded the image is basically what it comes down to.
04:09You have taken this area of that already had probably too much contrast
04:12associated with it and you just made a complete mess of it. All right, so
04:16let's draw back here. Let's take this back up to something like -75, which
04:21works out pretty well for this image. We still have a little bit of
04:24posterization going on down here, but that's all right. I think we can live with that.
04:28All right, let's go ahead and zoom back out take in a more of the more of the
04:31bird at a time here. Now I am going to play with the contrast. Now I could
04:36either reduce the contrast inside of the image and if I do reduce the contrast,
04:41I am going to get rid of some of that posterization down there in the clouds
04:44but I am also going to make the image look flatter. So more drape if you will
04:48or I could punch that contrast upward. But don't go too far with it, you really
04:54want to go as high as a 100; even if it looks pretty nice on screen, you are
04:58probably starting to bring out noise and other weird artifacts inside of an
05:03image, which are random color transitions that shouldn't be there.
05:07So I am going to go ahead and take this value down to 75 and this I think is a
05:11good fix for this specific image. So - 75 for brightness, +75 for contrast,
05:17click OK. That's a long winded way of saying you messed with the brightness to
05:21make the image brighter or darker and you mess with the contrast to elevate the
05:25contrast or decrease the contrast. I realize that but for good reason I want
05:29you to have a real firm understanding of what's going on.
05:32In the next exercise, I am going to show you a few different ways to play with
05:36numerical values inside of Photoshop and then we will move on to the Histogram
05:40and a few other things that you need to know about right up front. Stay with me.
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Adjusting numerical values in Photoshop
00:00As promised I am going to show you how to work with numerical values inside of
00:06Photoshop, inside of many of the dialog boxes that are available to you inside
00:09Photoshop. I want to know this up front so that you can tweak your values to
00:13your heart's content, figure out how you would like to work and work quickly
00:16through these dialog boxes, of course.
00:18So I am still working in this modified version now of the Ethereal dove.jpg
00:23file that's found inside the 05_color_ correct folder. Just as you know what we
00:28were able to accomplish, this is before, and this is after. I am invoking the
00:33before and after views just by pressing Ctrl+Z, or Command+Z on the Mac.
00:38So Ctrl+Z to go back to Before, Ctrl+Z to go back to After, which might make
00:43you think if you are new to Photoshop is that, there is only level of undo,
00:46because Ctrl+Z undoes and then it redoes. But in fact, that's just the way the
00:51keyboard shortcut works. Photoshop has multiple levels of Undo as we will see over time.
00:58So I am going to return to the previous version of the dove by pressing Ctrl+Z,
01:02Command+Z on the Mac. Let's go back to the Brightness/Contrast command here, so
01:07Image > Adjustments > Brightness/ Contrast. Notice that the brightness value is
01:12highlighted right now.
01:13If I wanted to switch to Contrast, I could either press the Tab key in order to
01:18move up to Contrast. You can also press Shift+Tab to move backward, by the way,
01:22or you can just click on the name of an item. If I click on the word Contrast,
01:27it will make that value active; if I click on word Brightness, it will make
01:30that value active.
01:30Now, we know of course that we can modify the slider triangles by dragging them
01:36around and that will change the value, or some other things you can do. You can
01:40actually scrub, this is called Scrubbing, drag directly on the word Brightness
01:46in order to make the value higher in this case or lower like so, and that works
01:51for Contrast as well.
01:53If you want to scrub more quickly, you press and hold the Shift key. So a
01:57Shift+Scrub will scrub in increments of 10, notice that. So each pixel of the
02:01scrub is changing the value by an increment of 10, which is great if you want
02:05to go quickly one way or the other. If you want to go all the way to 150, or
02:09all the way to -150 and you just want to check out what it looks like, then you
02:12can use that Shift+Scrubbing technique.
02:15Another thing you can do is you can click inside the value to make it active,
02:20and you can press the Up Arrow key to increase the value in increments of 1, or
02:25you can press the Down Arrow key to reduce that value in increments of 1; or if
02:30you want to move in increments of 10, you do the same thing we did with the
02:34scrubber, you press the Shift key.
02:36So Shift+Up Arrow takes this up in increments of 10. Shift+Down Arrow takes
02:40this down in increments of 10, and that's it. Those are your basic options that
02:46are available to you when you are altering numerical details inside of Photoshop.
02:50So, if I wanted to change this value to -75%, the simplest way to do it
02:56probably, if I was just sort of working through the image, testing out
02:59different settings. Then I press Shift+ Down Arrow until I was starting to hone
03:04in on a value that looked good. Then if I went to -70 and then press Shift+Down
03:09Arrow to -80, and I feel like, well, - 70 wasn't enough but -80 is too much.
03:14Then I could back it up just by pressing the Up Arrow key a few times to raise
03:18that value to -75.
03:18Of course, I could Tab to Contrast and just enter the value too. I can also
03:24just change the numerical value by entering your own, and that is it. So, same
03:29modification invoked this time, however, using various numerical keyboard
03:33tricks. I will click OK in order to apply my change and again, before and after
03:40on the dove. Beautiful!
03:42In the next exercise, I am going to show you yet another way to approach
03:45Brightness/Contrast as an Adjustment Layer.
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Introducing adjustment layers
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to another way to correct colors
00:04inside of Photoshop and that's using an adjustment layer. We will still be
00:08working with the Brightness/Contrast function but we'll be applying it as an
00:12adjustment layer instead of a static command.
00:14Now, so far I've gone ahead and modified this Ethereal dove.jpg file. I went
00:20ahead and applied the Brightness/ Contrast to it. All of these commands here
00:24under the Image menu, under the Adjustments submenu, all of these commands are
00:28static color adjustments, meaning that they permanently alter the colors of the
00:32pixels inside the image.
00:35Notice, here in the Layers palette, if you have your Layers palette on screen,
00:38down here in the lower right corner of the screen, notice that we have just a
00:42single layer called Background. It's not really a layer at all; it's just a
00:46flat image. So nothing special going on inside this image, which means that, I
00:51could save over my original.
00:53This file is saved as a JPG file, and JPG is a flat image file format. So I
00:59could go up to the File menu and just choose the Save command to save over the
01:03original. Lots of places work this way, especially at big magazines, where
01:08they're just churning through images. They'll open an image, apply one or more
01:12static color adjustments and save over the original.
01:14However, I don't recommend you work that way. If you are going to apply a
01:18static color adjustment, then you want to turn around and choose the Save As
01:22command, so you don't save over that original.
01:26That way if you ever need to come back to the original, because as I say, it's
01:29very tempting in Photoshop to overcompensate. So if you find yourself
01:32overcompensating in the early days and then like a year later you've learned a
01:35lot more, you know the program better, you can go back to those original images
01:40and recorrect them and make them that much better still.
01:43Anyway, I'll choose Save As, and because this is a flat image, I would go ahead
01:47and stick with the JPG file format. That's perfectly fine and we would call it
01:51something like Corrected dove.jpg and then click on the Save button. Then it
01:56will ask me what quality I want to use, what's the quality setting? I would
02:00maximize that.
02:01I'll go ahead and set to its maximum value, which is 12. Set this item right
02:05here to Baseline Optimized. That's your best bet. These are your best settings,
02:09in fact, throughout. Then click OK in order to save that image. So, that's one
02:14way to work. That's the static color adjustment.
02:16Another way to work is to work with an adjustment layer. So I am going to go
02:20ahead and open up that original version of the dove, which I should be able to
02:26by going to the Open Recent command, and there is Ethereal dove.jpg right
02:29there. So I can open up that guy.
02:32Now, let's apply an adjustment layer to this image instead. First of all, make
02:38sure that you have your Adjustments palette open on screen, and if you don't
02:41see it here in this middle position, then go up to the Window menu and choose
02:46Adjustments. Of course, all of the palettes are available to you in the Window menu.
02:50Then you go ahead and click on one of these icons. So you sort to have to hover
02:54over them to figure out what the icons mean. This very first guy right there is
02:58Brightness/Contrast. You can see, because we've got this tooltip that's coming
03:02up, the yellow thing that tells us. But also right there, in the upper left
03:07corner of the palette, you can see the words Brightness/Contrast.
03:08As soon as you click, you actually make a layer here inside the Layers palette.
03:16That layer contains this Brightness/ Contrast adjustment. So I'll just go ahead
03:20and enter the same values as we were using before, +75, Tab, +75 for
03:25Contrast. Do not turn the Use Legacy on, and we apply our modification as an
03:31adjustment layer.
03:32Now, to preview on or off I could turn off, there is this eyeball right here in
03:37front of this layer, I could turn it off in order to see the original and I
03:41could turn it back on in order to see the modification.
03:44In the next exercise, I'll show you some of the advantages of adjustment layers
03:48and a few different ways to use them as well.
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Editing and saving adjustment layers
00:00In this exercise, I am going to give you a sense for the advantages that are
00:04afforded to you by an Adjustment Layer. I am working inside of my corrected
00:09version of Ethereal dove.jpg, and I just went ahead and added an Adjustment
00:14Layer in the previous exercise. One advantage of an Adjustment Layer is you can
00:18just click on it to find out what's going on.
00:20So for example, if I click on the Background layer here inside the Layers
00:23palette, and I am going to go ahead and make that Layers palette wider by
00:27dragging this left edge right there of the Layers palette so that we can see
00:31everything. I want to see the full name of this layer.
00:33You will then see up here inside the Adjustments palette, you'll see all those
00:37Adjustment icons, and you'll see a series of presets that you can choose from
00:41as well. But if I were to click on the Brightness/Contrast 1 layer right there,
00:46then suddenly, I am presented with the options for this command. So, I don't
00:50have to go digging and hunting anywhere, it's right there inside the
00:53Adjustments palette.
00:54I can also change my settings if I want to. Let's say, I want to brighten this
00:58up a little bit, I feel like I have gone too far in the darkening, and I want
01:02to back up the Contrast as well. Then I could do that. I can change my mind at
01:06any point in time, because the original image is still here 100% intact. It
01:12hasn't been damaged or modified at all; all the changes are happening on the fly.
01:17Now, here is a couple of other things you can do. There are some buttons down
01:19here, these little eyeballs down at the bottom. If you click on this eyeball,
01:23you'll turn the layer off. Notice that turns the eyeball for the layer off as
01:26well. If you click again, when it's got a red flash to it, you'll turn it back on.
01:31Or if you just want to sort of do it off quick Before After preview, you click
01:36and hold on this guy right there. So this is before, this is the previous state
01:42for the adjustment, and this is after. So this is the modification we've made
01:47this time around. So this is the way I had corrected it at the end of the
01:50previous exercise. This is how it looks now.
01:53You've also got a keyboard shortcut for that little guy and it's the Backslash
01:57key. So if I press and hold the Backslash key, I'll see the before version.
02:01Then as soon as I release that Backslash key, I see the current version. Then
02:05if you want to reset to the previous state of the image, you would click on
02:09this little icon and notice that restores my values to -75 and +75.
02:15Couple of other things you might want to do just in terms of tiding things up
02:19here, you might want to rename your layer. You might not want to have it called
02:22Brightness/Contrast 1. If you do, just double-click on its name right there
02:27inside the Layers palette, that will make that name active and then enter a
02:31different name, such as Deeper sky, let's say.
02:34And then when you are done, press the Enter key or the Return key on the Mac in
02:37order to accept that modification. This guy right there is the Layer Mask, so
02:41it allows you to brush in your changes if you want to. So you can brush away
02:45certain areas and brush in other areas. If you are not using it, we aren't using it.
02:49You can just go ahead and click on it in order to make it active, and then
02:54click on the Trashcan. If you do that, then it will ask you if you want to
02:57delete that layer mask and you would say, yes I want to delete it, and then it
03:01goes away. That just allows you to do this number where you can actually make
03:05the Layers palette narrower and still be able to see the name and what's going
03:09on with it.
03:11One more thing I've got to tell you about Adjustment Layer is how you go about
03:14saving them. If you want to save an image that contains an Adjustment Layer,
03:18you can't just go up to the File menu and choose the Save command, or you can,
03:22but if you do, you'll get to Save dialog box, because Photoshop is incapable of
03:27saving a layered image into the JPG file format, which is where we started. You
03:32have to use the native PSD file format, which is the Photoshop document format,
03:37which is great! That saves your layers and saves everything else that you can
03:40do inside Photoshop as well.
03:41So I would just go ahead and save mine, add something along lines of Corrected
03:45dove.psd, click Save, and everything is good to go. Then I can edit that image
03:51to my heart's content in the future. That is to say, I could change these
03:56settings weeks, months, years from now, it's that flexible. So Adjustment
04:00layers are definitely the more flexible way to work. It's completely up to you
04:04how you work, however.
04:06I'll be mostly focusing on static adjustments, just because they are easier to
04:11apply and we need to get a sense of how those commands work. And not all of the
04:15commands are available as Adjustment layers as you'll see. There is an entire
04:18Adjustment Layers chapter waiting for you in part two of this series.
04:23In the next exercise, I am going to introduce you to one of the scarier
04:27functions inside of Photoshop, but it's a good one to learn early on and that's
04:31the Histogram. Stay tuned.
Collapse this transcript
Introducing the Histogram
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to a special kind of graph that's
00:04available to you inside of Photoshop, and it's called a Histogram. Now, it's a
00:09little bit technical, and it may seem even a little bit scary at first.
00:13But it's a great tool to have in your arsenal when you are applying even the
00:17most basic color adjustments. Because it helps you gauge whether you are
00:21applying good adjustments or bad ones, whether you're pushing an adjustment too
00:26far, for example, so far you are going to hurt the image, or whether you are
00:29doing it just right.
00:31So, I've got two images open. One is called Royal Gorge.jpg, which features
00:35this photograph of a suspension bridge that goes across an enormous deep chasm
00:41in Southern Colorado. It's like the highest suspension bridge in the world. If
00:44you fell off it, you would definitely break your leg. Then we have this image
00:49called Histogram.psd. Do not be scared. I know it's a scary image. This is a
00:53diagram of a Histogram, we will come back to it in just a moment, but it's
00:57going to help us out enormously.
00:59So let's go back to Royal Gorge.jpg, and I am going to Shift+Tab back my
01:04palette. This little icon is the Histogram icon. If you click on it, you'll
01:08bring up the Histogram palette, or you could go to Window menu and choose
01:12Histogram, if you prefer. I am going to go ahead and take this guy and drag him
01:16out of the group so that he is an independent, free-floating palette, and I'll
01:20expand it so that we can see the Histogram.
01:23Now, I am going to press Shift+Tab. Now, when I do that, when I press
01:26Shift+Tab, I am going to get rid of everything. Now I have got to go to the
01:29back up to the Window menu and choose Histogram to bring just it back up on
01:33screen. All right, good! That's what we want; we want just the Histogram
01:36palette for now, because we don't have a lot of width on the screen to work
01:39with, and these are very wide images.
01:41So there is the Histogram for this specific image. I you have a little yellow
01:45caution icon over there, just click on it to update the Histogram. You will see
01:50the distribution of brightness values inside this image starting with shadows
01:54over here on the left, and moving up to highlights over here on the right.
01:59So what am I talking about, and why and who cares? Let's go over to the
02:03Histogram.psd file. I just want you to see what a little histogram looks like.
02:07Now, let's look at a big one. Let's collapse that Histogram palette for a
02:10moment and move it out of the way.
02:11So this is a big view of a histogram, and it's a bar graph. So these little
02:18tiny bars going upward, and you can see that there is a ton of them. You can
02:22see the little lines between them now. Every single line of those bars
02:27represents the brightness value inside the image. So we start with Black, just
02:31completely dead black over here on the left. And the reason I say dead black is
02:36because there is no luminance whatsoever coming out of your monitor. It would
02:39just be a pixel that's basically off.
02:42So from Black, all the way over to White, which would be all the way on, here
02:47on the right hand side. The various luminance levels, you can call them
02:52brightness values or luminance levels if you like in between. Photoshop
02:56commonly refers to them as Levels.
02:58Think of this graph is being divided into four equal parts. So the lightest
03:03quarter of the colors are the Highlights right here. Then the darkest quarter
03:09of the colors are the Shadows. Then the middle two quarters are the Midtones.
03:15That's basically how it works.
03:16Now, they are kind of slop off over into each other. They are sort of catchall
03:21terms; they don't mean specific color values. It is just that we have the
03:25lightest colors, the darkest colors. Then there is big range of middle colors
03:29here that are the Midtones.
03:31Now, what you are seeing in this graph right here, the one I've drawn up is
03:35that we have very few dark colors going on. Notice there is no Blacks, because
03:39if there was a Black we would be able to see a little bit of a bar there. The
03:43height of the bar indicates the number of pixels. Notice this label right
03:48there, the number of pixels at this location, at this specific brightness value.
03:52So, some place there is this very bright color in this all over the image, just
03:57probably the blue of the skies, for example, in the Royal Gorge image, because
04:01this more or less matches that image.
04:03We have some darkness starting right about there, so we have some medium
04:08shadows inside this image but not many shadows. Then we have a fair number of
04:13Midtones inside of this image, because these guys are pretty tall. Then we have
04:16just gobs of Highlights, a very bright image. Then dropping down here we don't
04:20have any Whites.
04:22Now, this is a good Histogram, because it's fairly smooth, so that indicates
04:26that we have some smooth color transitions going on inside the image. Also, we
04:29have some area between where the colors drop off in White. We have some area
04:35between where the colors drop off in Black.
04:38That's great, because what you don't want to see is this spike over here on
04:41Black, or a big spike over here on White. If you have too many Blacks or
04:44Whites, it means the image is clipped. Which means, it's ratty, it's in pretty
04:48bad shape and you don't have a lot of detail left inside that image.
04:53So that's how Histogram works. I don't expect you to all of a sudden have a PhD
04:57in Histogram, or even particularly get it at this point. I just want you to
05:01just sort of have this image in front of you, sort of etched into your brain,
05:05for just a moment stare at it, all right.
05:07Then in the next exercise, I'll show you how to actually take advantage of the
05:12Histogram palette as we apply the Brightness/Contrast command.
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Using the Histogram palette
00:00Now that we have a vague idea of what a histogram is inside Photoshop, let's
00:04see how we can use it to gauge the best Brightness/Contrast settings for an
00:08image. I am looking at that image Royal Gorge.jpg found inside the
00:1205_color_correct folder. I have got my Histogram palette on screen; I am going
00:16to move it all the way, out of the way of the image. So it's not overlapping
00:20the image at all.
00:21Notice, you can move these free- floating palettes over the menu bar even. It's
00:25just amazing! But I'll go ahead and tuck it up here; this is a pretty good
00:28place. By the way, notice that I am seeing a single black histogram here inside
00:32the Histogram palette. It's possible you may be seeing something else, such as
00:36three overlapping colored histograms. If so, here's what I want you to do.
00:40Go to the little palette menu icon, click on it to bring up the flyout menu and
00:44choose Expanded View. Then, here inside the Expanded View, I want you to change
00:50your channel to RGB. So it could end up looking like this. These are the colors
00:54I was telling you about a moment ago.
00:55We don't want to see that, not for this image. I'll explain exactly what's
00:58going on with all the histograms and the various colors. We've got the Red,
01:02Green and Blue channels overlapping each other here. That's to come. I will be
01:06explaining all that in future exercises of future chapters.
01:09But for now, go ahead and choose RGB, just because it's simplest. Then, go back
01:14to the palette menu and choose Compact View to restore your little Histogram
01:18palette here. Then, I am going up to the Image menu, I am going to choose
01:22Adjustments and I am going to choose Brightness/Contrast.
01:24The reason I am applying Brightness/ Contrast as the static adjustment is
01:27because it's good enough for this image for one thing. The Layers palette is
01:31hidden and this is such a wide image, I want to leave it hidden. But you would
01:35use the same settings if you were working with an Adjustment Layer.
01:38All right, so first I want to show you, just keep an eye, actually I'll move
01:42these guys closer together, because I want you to see what's happening to the
01:45histogram as we modify these adjustments. So if I increase the brightness of
01:50the image, notice that that scoots over the Midtones, squishes the Highlights
01:54over here and draws out the Shadows. So it stretches the Shadows inside the
01:59image and it brightens the image as well, of course.
02:01If I were to darken the image, then I would move the Midtones over this
02:06direction, I would stretch out the Highlights and then I would squish the
02:10Shadows. Also, let's just take a look, I just want you get a sense of what you
02:14are looking at here with the Histogram.
02:16If I increase the Contrast, I am going to spread that Histogram out, notice
02:21that, so I am spreading it in these two directions here. If there was a little
02:24bit of an opening in the middle, then we would create more of a value on that
02:27Histogram. If I reduce the Contrast value, notice that I reduce the size of the
02:32Histogram, so it actually shrinks. So that we have fewer Shadows and fewer
02:36Highlights and more Midtones inside of the image.
02:39I want you to compare that just so that you get a sense of what is going on
02:42here to what used to happen in the old days. This was in Photoshop CS2 and
02:47earlier. I'll turn on Use Legacy so you can see. Notice, if I were to increase
02:51the brightness value in the old days, it moves the entire histogram. It just
02:55moved it over to the right, like this.
02:57That means, we would end up clipping colors, we would end up just shoving some
03:01colors into white, because you can't go beyond white. A lot of the image would
03:05end up looking just terrible as it is right now. If you were to go even farther
03:10with it, look at that, we are just moving the histogram over here. It hits the
03:12wall and goes splat and we have a ton of whites inside the image.
03:16Meanwhile, if I were to reduce the Brightness value exactly the opposite, we
03:19move the entire histogram to the left and splat it against black and we have
03:23just a ton of blacks now going on inside the image. Contrast would just kind of
03:28spread out the colors like this. So in other words, you really couldn't get
03:31good results with the command back then. Anyway, now you can, let's turn Use
03:35Legacy off, so we can actually get something done here.
03:38Let's see how we go about correcting this image. I am going to start, notice
03:41that this is a low-contrast image, because it doesn't have a lot of Shadows
03:44there, and notice a lot of Shadows are missing, and a lot of Highlights are
03:47missing as well. So we need to spread out this histogram, so we need to
03:50increase the Contrast of the image. That's where we need to start. And that's
03:53what the histogram tells us. Start with Contrast, because there is not enough
03:57contrast going on right now. So I'll go ahead and increase the Contrast to
04:01about 80 for this image, it actually happens to work out pretty well.
04:04Now, I can see that if anything, I have got some decent shadows going on here,
04:09not great but pretty good, but I don't have Highlights. So what I need to do is
04:13brighten up the image. So I am going to move this Brightness value up.
04:17Somewhere around about 25, I think for this image, looks pretty good.
04:22I'll go ahead and tweak that down. This look pretty darn good to me, and I'll
04:25go ahead and click OK, in order to accept that modification. So just to get a
04:30sense of what we were able to accomplish here, and we can watch our Histogram
04:33tool, go ahead and update that histogram so we can see what it looks like. This
04:36is the after version of the image, both histogram and image on screen. This is
04:40before and this after. So we are probably going to get better results out of
04:44this after image.
04:45Now, the one place in, which I might think, gosh! This area right here, notice
04:51this sort of shaded area right there, I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z again. We
04:54used to have better detail going on inside this image; I'll zoom in on it. We
04:58used to have better detail going on inside this portion of the image back
05:02before we applied the color correction, and now, after, it gets pretty darn
05:08dark. What do we do about that? How do we draw out of a single detail if we go
05:11too far in a certain area? How do we draw it back?
05:15I will show you the answer; we are going to take advantage of this thing called
05:17the History Brush in the next exercise.
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Restoring details with the History brush
00:00So here we are looking at that image that we just gone through correcting in
00:04the previous exercise. This is the before version of the Royal Gorge.jpg image
00:09and this is the after version of the image. So the Before version a little bit
00:14dark, very low in contrast, the After version a little bit brighter, a lot more
00:19contrast going on.
00:20However, thanks to the fact that we are making the Highlights lighter and the
00:24Shadows darker. We are losing some information in the Shadow area. So this is
00:29the before version of this rock shadow right there and this is the after
00:33version. So we are losing some detail here. We are also losing some detail
00:37around here as well.
00:39How do we bring that detail back? Well, we can take advantage of a feature
00:42called the history brush. It's this tool right there, it allows you to paint
00:46with an older state of the image. So I am going to go ahead and click on
00:50History Brush to select it. You can also press the Y key, which is the last
00:54letter in History, of course.
00:56Now the brush is a little smaller. You can see this circle is just too small to
00:59get much of any work done. So a couple of different ways to change it, one is
01:03to go up here to the Options Bar and click on this down pointing arrowhead and
01:06then I could change the Master Diameter value. Or I can get that little
01:10dropdown palette on the fly by right- clicking anywhere inside of the image
01:15window when the History Brush is active.
01:17Then I can change that Master Diameter value and then I can move my cursor out
01:21here and see if it's big enough and if it's not, now that the value is active,
01:25right, I could press Shift+Up Arrow a couple of times in order to grow that
01:29brush on the fly. This looks pretty good to me. So something around a 100 and
01:33then I will just start painting in order to paint with the older lighter
01:38version of the shaded side of the rock there. Then I will paint inside of this
01:42area as well in order to bring it back.
01:46Now, if you are having any sort of problems, you are seeing some error message,
01:49something along those lines, then you can bring up the History palette. Go to
01:53the Window menu and choose the History command in order to bring up the History
01:57pallet. It will show you all of the operations that you have applied inside the image.
02:01So History is really about multiple Undos. You can just click on a state in
02:05order to back up like so. This is the original version that opened. This is the
02:09Brightness/Contrast version of the image. This is the first History Brush
02:13stroke, this is the second one.
02:15Now this little guy right there, indicates what we are painting back to, what
02:19the History Brush will paint to, the source for the History Brush, is what it's
02:22called. It's right now associated with the snapshot and this is the snapshot
02:27that was automatically created when we opened the image.
02:30If you wanted to paint back to some other state, then you would just click in
02:33front of it. Like if I wanted to paint the Brightness/Contrast modification
02:36back in, I would click in front there and paint over this area in order to
02:40paint it back high-contrast, like so. I don't want that, but that's what I could do.
02:45So, I might just decide, this area round, I kind of went out it too much. So
02:49maybe I will go with a smaller brush this time around, like something in the 60
02:54pixel range. Then I will press the Enter key a couple of times there and I will
02:58paint around this area just to make sure that I am not creating a bad edit.
03:03This looks really good to me. I will go ahead and zoom out.
03:06So, now we can do a big after version of the image here. We can go over to the
03:13History palette and I could click on Royal Gorge.jpg right there in order to
03:17see the original version of the image. Now let's go ahead and close that
03:20History palette. So that's the before version, the very original version that
03:24is. Then if I go up to the Edit menu, I can undo that state change by pressing
03:28Ctrl+Z. So that takes me back to the fully modified version, the last state I
03:32was working on.
03:33So now I just press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on the Mac in order to switch back and
03:37forth. You can see that everything about the image except for these shadows
03:41right here is changing. Thanks to my combination of Brightness/Contrast working
03:46in coordination with the Histogram palette and the History Brush, here inside Photoshop.
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Using the Color Balance feature
00:00In this exercise, we are going to switch our focus from Brightness/Contrast to
00:04correcting for color cast. You can see the image before us here, which is
00:08called Count Maxula.jpg, found inside the 05_color_correct folder, has quite
00:14the color cast.
00:15By color cast I mean a predominant color that's throwing off the natural order
00:20of things inside of the image. In Max's case here, he is far too red and orange
00:26and yellow. So he has a very pronounced warm color cast to him and we are going
00:31to take care of that.
00:32So, step number one is to put the Histogram palette back away. So I am going to
00:36press Shift+Tab to bring back my right side palettes and I am going drag this
00:40Histogram tab right here and I am going to drop it between the little Navigator
00:44and Info icons, like so. Now that's where it ought to be.
00:49You can correct for color cast using one of two commands and here they are. I
00:53will go up to the Image menu, choose Adjustments. The first command is Color
00:56Balance and the second command is Variations. Now by default, Color Balance has
01:02a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+B or Command+B on the Mac. But I went ahead to
01:06install it. If you loaded my deke keys, I transferred Ctrl+B or Command+B on
01:11the Mac to Variations because I prefer working with that command. I think it
01:15makes a lot more sense, it gives you more control.
01:17However, we will start things off with Color Balance. It has one advantage,
01:21which is that, it's available as an Adjustment Layer here inside the
01:24Adjustments palette. So we are going to apply it as an Adjustment Layer since
01:28we can. So here is Color Balance right there. That's the Color Balance icon.
01:32But before you click on it, recall few exercises ago when we added a
01:36Brightness/Contrast Adjustment Layer. We added not only the layer, but also a
01:40layer mask, which sort of just cluttered up the palette. Generally speaking,
01:44you don't need layer mask. And when you do, it's very easy to add one after the fact.
01:48So here is what I would like you to do. Go up to this little icon in the upper
01:52right corner of the Adjustments palette. Click on it to bring up the flyout
01:55menu and turn off Add Mask by Default. Now we will not have a layer mask
02:00cluttering up our palette.
02:01Go ahead now and click on Color Balance. Or, if you want to name the layer as
02:06you are creating it, press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac and click.
02:11That will force to display off the dialog box. I am going to call this anti-red
02:16or something like that and then click OK. Now we have an anti-red layer.
02:20Now, it's not doing anything, because I haven't added any settings. Let's do
02:23that. Then notice that I am offered three different slider bars here, each of,
02:27which represents a different color axis. So we start off with Cyan versus Red.
02:34These guys are theoretical color opposites or color complements, if you prefer.
02:38We will be discussing what that means in detail just a few exercises from now.
02:43But anyway, if you have got too much red, then you want to take the slider into
02:48cyan territory. And in our case, we have way too much red, so I am going to
02:52take this guy all the way over to -100, which is all the way cyan.
02:57The next slider is Magenta versus Green. Magenta being kind of a purplish pink
03:02color and green is its theoretical opposite. Now this image has a little bit
03:09too much magenta. If you take a look at Max's mouth, you can see that it's kind
03:12of a hot pink. So let's go ahead and drag this slider over little bit toward
03:17green, so maybe about +30. The finally, the image is way too yellow. So let's
03:23add some blue to the image by taking this value up to say, about +40. I think,
03:29it works out pretty nicely.
03:30Now this is not a perfect color adjustment. We're not going to get completely,
03:33absolutely great colors for two reasons. One, we start off with pretty bad
03:39image in the first place. It had a really bad color cast. Secondly, this isn't
03:43the best command for this purpose, like I was saying, Variations is better.
03:47Next though, we do have this other option here, which is to either preserve the
03:52luminance levels, the natural luminance levels in the image or let them drift.
03:56Right now we are preserving them, which I think makes the image look lighter. I
04:00will show you what I mean. I will go ahead and click and hold on this little
04:02eye icon or you could press and hold the Backslash key if you prefer. Then
04:06release in order to see the after version.
04:08So, again this is before, this is after. To me, the after version looks
04:13lighter. So I am going to turn off Preserve Luminosity to let the image decline
04:18a little bit. It gets a little bit darker when I turn off that checkbox and I
04:21think that looks better.
04:23So, that is our final correction. Again, this is before and this is after.
04:28Thanks to the addition of a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. In the next
04:32exercise, we will see how we can take on this same image using the Variations command.
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Introducing the Variations command
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to the Variations command and the
00:03many options that are available to us inside the Variations dialog box. Notice
00:08I have open two images, Balanced Maxula.psd, which is the color balanced
00:13version of the image that I created in the previous exercise, and the original
00:17Count Maxula.jpg that has not been corrected. They are both found inside the
00:2305_color_correct folder.
00:24We will be working in Count Maxula.jpg. So if you had gone ahead and created an
00:29adjustment layer in the previous exercise, just go and throw it away or turn it
00:32off for now and then click on the Background layer to make sure it's active.
00:35Then, I am going to move Max over to the left here a little bit, so that we can
00:40keep an eye on him as I bring up the Variations dialog box. So I am going to
00:43choose Image > Adjustments > Variations, or if you loaded Deke keys, you can
00:48press Ctrl+B or Command+B on the Mac.
00:51You may wonder, hey! Why not use an adjustment layer? Because we can't. The
00:55Variations command is not a standard color adjustment. It doesn't use the same
00:59approach to an image. You can apply a non-destructive way to smart objects. But
01:03smart objects are quite complicated. We won't be getting to them till Part 3 of
01:07this series.
01:08So for now, we will just apply it as the static adjustment. Choose Variations
01:12command, up comes the Variations dialog box right here. A brilliant thing about
01:15this dialog box is that it allows you to click on these thumbnails, which show
01:20you what the image will look like if you click on them. So there is not quite
01:24as much guesswork involved with this command. Meanwhile however, it does not
01:28preview in the background image. So the background image remains unchanged
01:32until you click the OK button.
01:34So, if you want to make the image more cyan, you would click on More Cyan. If
01:38you make it more blue, you will click on More Blue, and so on. If you want it
01:40darker, you will click on Darker. You can see that each of these thumbnails
01:45sort of add to each other. So if I keep clicking on More Magenta, I am going to
01:48make this image very magenta indeed after a while.
01:51If I want to restore the original version of the image, I come up to Original
01:55and click on it. You also have this Fine Coarse slider, so if you want very
01:59coarse adjustments, you can move it all the way over to the right and you can
02:04see that we are indeed going to create some coarse adjustments.
02:07Now what's funny about this is they all look ridiculous except for More Cyan.
02:11More Cyan looks not right, but it does look better actually than the original image.
02:16So that just goes to show you how much red is going on inside of that right
02:20now. Then if you want to take things back, if you want to rein them in a
02:24little, you would send this slider more towards Fine. But you can see all the
02:27way toward Fine, you can barely tell the difference between these thumbnails.
02:31So it's a little bit hard to gauge.
02:32What I typically do is start off in the middle or approximately in the middle
02:37on the Mac, and then make my larger modifications and then back it off as I am
02:42trying to fine-tune my adjustments. But we will start in the middle there.
02:46Now right now, we are changing just the Midtones inside the image, so just the
02:50middle colors. We also have the option of balancing the colors of the Shadows
02:53and the Highlights if we want to, so the darkest and the lightest colors. And
02:57we can change the Saturation, that is, the intensity of the colors. We will see
03:01how that works in a future exercise.
03:03But here are a couple of things to consider. We have got these various
03:08thumbnails that are set up around the image, and they are all set to different
03:12colors. So we have got More Red, More Yellow, More Green, More Cyan, More Blue
03:16and More Magenta. And then over here, we have got Lighter and Darker.
03:20But why don't we have less of anything, why just more of the colors? So instead
03:25of having a Less Red, which is what we need, we just have More Red. And then
03:29why these specific colors? Why is it red, yellow? Where the heck is orange?
03:34Where is violet, the purple colors, for example? It turns out, this is the best
03:39way for this dialog box to be structured, because of the way that color works
03:43in the digital round.
03:44I will tell you all about color primaries and complements so that you
03:48understand everything we are seeing inside of this dialog box, in the next exercise.
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Color primaries and complements
00:00So I posed two questions related to the Variations dialog box here in the
00:04previous exercise. First, why these colors, why red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta?
00:10And then why more, more, more, more, more, more, more? The reasons are as follows.
00:16I am going to Alt+Tab over to the Bridge, which I have running. On the Mac,
00:20that would be a Command+Tab. I am going to burrow my way into the
00:2405_color_correct folder, here inside the exercise_files folder, and I am going
00:28to click on the file called Color Graph.psd and I am going to press the
00:32Spacebar in order to take advantage of that Full Screen Preview option.
00:36Here is how colors are organized in the digital realm. We start with Red. The
00:41colors are actually mapped on to a circle like we are seeing in here. So they
00:44go all the way around. We start with red and we wrap all the way back around to
00:48red. So it's like we are taking a rainbow and wrapping it around on itself.
00:52Now this is the entire visible color spectrum that we are seeing here. We start
00:56things off with red at zero degrees, for what it's worth on the circle and, of
01:00course, the circle has 360 degrees. When we are measuring color on the circle,
01:04we measure it in a counterclockwise direction.
01:08So our next big color is Yellow right there at 60 degrees. Then 60 degrees from
01:12that, we have Green. Another 60 degrees, we have Cyan. Then we have blue, then
01:17we have Magenta and then we wrap all the way back as I say, to Red. Now midway,
01:2230 degrees away from Red, is Orange.
01:24So Orange is a secondary color. So the colors that are at the 60-degree marks
01:28are primary colors. The colors that are at the 30-degree marks are secondary.
01:33So we have got Orange, we have got Lime, Turquoise, Cobalt, Violet and Crimson.
01:39Now these are my color names, I should say that. The big ones, the primaries,
01:43those are universal standards, those names there. But I have gone ahead and
01:48names to the secondary and tertiary colors. The reason being that there are no
01:54industry standards for these colors. I came up with these names based on other
01:58industry colors, such as crayons and paints and other pigments that are out there.
02:04So notice where the primaries are concerned, that we have red at this location.
02:09Then 120 degrees later, we have Green, and then 120 degrees after that we have
02:14Blue. And you may have heard of the Red, Green, Blue, RGB color space. This is
02:19the color space of light.
02:21It's the color space that's used to display colors on your computer screen or
02:26some other projection device. It's the colors that are used by your digital
02:29camera in order to capture the colors in the first place. It's also used by scanners.
02:34Then if we take a look at the missing colors, the colors I didn't mention, the
02:37missing primaries, we have got Yellow, Cyan and Magenta. You may have heard of
02:42Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, used for printing, CMYK. That's because those
02:49colors are used to absorb the other colors.
02:51So in the natural world, white light is made up of a combination of red, green
02:56and blue. The function of cyan is to absorb red light and bounce back blue and
03:01green, and the function of magenta is to absorb green light and bounce back red
03:06and blue, and the purpose of yellow is to absorb blue light and reflect back
03:11red and green.
03:13Truly, by the way, when you mix red and green, you get yellow. Because these
03:17are lights, the colors grow brighter as you mix them. That's the way things
03:22work. So that is why, if I go ahead and switch back to Variations, that's why
03:26we are seeing red at the zero degree position. We are seeing yellow at 60
03:30degrees, green at 120 degrees, cyan at 180 degrees, blue at 240 degrees and
03:36then magenta at 300 degrees.
03:38Everyone who is across from somebody else is the color complement. So red and
03:43cyan are complements to each other, so theoretical opposites. Yellow is across
03:47from blue, so they are complements or theoretical opposites. And green and
03:52magenta across from each other, so they too are complements/theoretical opposites.
03:58So here's the thing. We have More Red, where is Less Red, right here. More Cyan
04:03is the same as Less Red, More Red is the same as Less Cyan. More Yellow is the
04:08same as Less Blue, More Blue is the same as Less Yellow. More Magenta is the
04:13same as Less Green and More Green is the same as Less Magenta. I just want to
04:18make sure we are covering all of our bases there.
04:20So what does that mean in terms of correcting this image of Max? Stay tuned for
04:25the next exercise and I will tell you.
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Correcting the color cast
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to correct this image of Max here,
00:04Count Maxula.jpg. This is my elder son by the way, and we are going to correct
00:08this image using the Variations command.
00:12First of all, let's evaluate what we've got. We could just sit here and click
00:15on thumbnails until we get something better than what we have right now. But
00:18first, I would like to step back and say, "What is wrong with the image?" Well,
00:23it's got a color cast. What kind of color cast? Let's evaluate that.
00:26Let's look at the image. Memorize what we are seeing here, the various hues,
00:30that is, core colors that we are seeing inside the image. Then I will switch
00:34back to this Color Graph.psd file that I am viewing inside the Full Screen
00:37Preview mode that's available to us in the Bridge.
00:40Now I would say that Max's colors, his color cast that is, the badness of his
00:45color falls inside of this range right here. So I would identify his color cast
00:50as being scarlet. We don't have a more or less scarlet button to work with.
00:54Instead, we are going to have to work with the buttons we have, which are red
00:58and yellow and their complements, cyan and blue.
01:01So if we were saying that he's got a scarlet color cast right now, that means
01:05that he is three parts red compared to one part yellow, because he is three
01:10increments away from yellow and one increment away from red. So he is more red
01:15than yellow, three times as much red, in fact, as he is yellow. If he were
01:19amber, then he would be three parts yellow and one part red, do you understand?
01:22So, three parts red, one part yellow. Let's go back to Max and I did that by
01:29pressing Alt+Tab or Command+Tab on the Mac. Now, that means that we need to get
01:35rid of the red three times as much as we need to get rid of the yellow. I am
01:40going to do that by setting my Fine Coarse slider right there in the middle or
01:43whatever its default setting is on the Mac, because it's slightly off center.
01:47Then you want to click once, twice, three times on More Cyan. Notice, I didn't
01:53triple-click, I didn't go click, click, click, because if you do, the
01:56Variations command will track you properly and you won't really know how far it
02:00did track you. It might take two of them, it might just take one, you don't
02:03know. Then you've got to start over by clicking on Original.
02:06Do it again, so just click slowly, click, pause, click, pause, click, pause.
02:11It's sort of pain in the neck, but it's the way it works. We have given him
02:15three cyans here, so three less reds. And now we need to do one less yellow by
02:20clicking on More Blue and we get this effect right there. It's pretty darn
02:25good. It looks promising!
02:26Now, go up here to the Fine Coarse slider and I am going to move this triangle
02:31just one click toward Fine, so just one tick mark toward Fine. Then, I will
02:36just look at these thumbnails, just to see what I think of them. This is pretty
02:38much the way I work. Do what I think is going to solve the problems with the
02:42image. Then back off of the coarseness. Then take a look at my thumbnails and
02:46see if one of the thumbnails looks better than current pick.
02:49In my opinion, More Green looks a little bit better. So I am going to click on
02:54More Green, just once. Then I would like to darken up the image a little bit.
02:57It's looking too light to me. So I will go to Darker here and I will click on
03:01it once and then I will click twice, because it looks better that way.
03:05So, so far, we had Fine Coarse set right in the middle. We clicked three times
03:10on Cyan, once on Blue. Then we moved this guy over to Fine just one increment,
03:14clicked once on Green and twice on Darker.
03:17Now then, what about these radio buttons up here? They allow us to balance the
03:22colors in the Shadows and the Highlights. Those are available to us with a
03:25Color Balance command as well, just that they don't really work all that
03:28terribly well. If I turn on Shadows, notice right away, I am seeing all these
03:32aberrant colors right here.
03:35And the reason is that Photoshop is trying to show me, if you print this image,
03:39these colors aren't going to print properly and they are going to clip. Hence,
03:44we have got this Show Clipping option turned on. It means that they are going
03:46to map to the wrong color values in the world of CMYK.
03:50Well, the problem is it's only for CMYK, only for commercial output. Secondly,
03:54not terribly accurate. Third, doesn't have anything to do with Inkjet printers,
03:58it just really, doesn't do us any good. It's very primitive, old-fashioned.
04:02Turn it off, because it's just getting in our face at this point.
04:06So, let's go ahead and crank up the coarseness, just so that we can see what
04:09might happen and you can see how we would be imbuing the Shadows with different
04:14colors. So the darkest colors in the image would be imbued with different
04:16colors, were we to click on one of these thumbnails.
04:19Not really something that's going to work out for us too terribly well, because
04:23the colors in the Shadows actually look pretty darn good to me. They might be a
04:26little greenish, in, which case I could set this down to Fine or something like
04:31that and I could click on Magenta in order to make it rosier inside the
04:36Shadows. But I don't really think we are going to get very far doing that.
04:38Now I am going to make this Coarse again, so we can see Highlights. Here is
04:42Highlights and you can see we are really imbuing the lightest colors with a
04:45different color this way. We are basically colorizing the image overall. You
04:49may find that a little bit useful again. If I go to Fine, I may be able to get
04:54rid of the blueness inside of his eyes. Maybe I will take this up just a little
04:58bit higher and click.
05:01But see, that's a problem. We're staring to get all these weird colors inside
05:05the flush tones too. I just don't like it. No, not doing it. I always try to
05:09like this function. You can hear me trying to like it, I think. But I have
05:12never found it to be useful to change the colors of the Highlights.
05:16But here is something I do find useful, Saturation. I'm going to go ahead and
05:19switch over to that. This allows me to either make the colors more intense or
05:23less intense. I am going to back things off. Notice I have my little slider
05:28triangle just a little bit over from middle toward Fine and I will click on
05:32Less Saturation. And that looks pretty darn good to me.
05:35Now, let's see how it works. I am going to go ahead and click OK in order to
05:39apply that color modification to the image and there it is. This is before and
05:44this is after. So certainly quite a bit better.
05:48If we wanted to get a sense of how it compares to the Color Balanced version of
05:51the image, this is the Color Balanced version, a little rosier, as it turns out.
05:55This is the Variations version, a little bluer. You can, of course, decide
05:58which one you like better. It's completely up to you at this point.
06:01Now, in the next exercise, I am going to show you how we can back off of our
06:05Variations effect using the Fade command and then we will really be able to
06:09judge. Stay tuned.
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Fading a static adjustment
00:00In this exercise, I am going to show you how to fade the last color
00:03modification that you have applied to the image, the last static modification.
00:07So here I am working inside the Count Maxula.jpg image that's found inside the
00:1205_color_correct folder.
00:14I just got done applying the Variations command. So I should be able now to go
00:18up to the Edit menu and choose the Fade command. But Fade is dimmed. Now this
00:22sometimes happens. If you click around between different windows like I just
00:25got done doing in the previous exercise, it can mess things up.
00:28So, I need to go ahead and undo that last modification. So I am going to go up
00:33to the Edit menu and I'm going to choose Step Backward, or I could press
00:37Ctrl+Alt+Z, Command+Option+Z on the Mac, in order to make sure that I have
00:43restored the original version of the image prior to applying the Variations command.
00:47Then, I will go up to the Image menu, choose Adjustments and choose Variations,
00:51or I could press Ctrl+B, Command+B on the Mac, in order to bring back the
00:55Variations dialog box. The wonderful thing about Variations is it always keeps
00:58track of the last modification you applied.
01:01Now it's showing us here inside the Saturation area, I could click on Midtones
01:04to go back to the more familiar controls with the hue values and the luminance
01:09values over here on the right hand side. In any event, this current pick item
01:13here, that is the last modification we applied. Let's go ahead and click OK in
01:17order to apply it to the image.
01:18Now, I can go up to the Edit menu and choose Fade Variations or I could press
01:24Ctrl+Shift+F, Command+Shift+F on the Mac. Now what you can do is you can back
01:29off of your opacity. You can also mix the image using a Blend mode, but that
01:33gets pretty darn complicated. It's not something we are going to do right now.
01:37But notice with opacity at 100% opacity, I am seeing the after version of the
01:41image. If I take the opacity value down to 0%, I see the before version of the
01:46image, so the original version, and then I can mix the two together using any
01:50other opacity value.
01:51Now this isn't some kind of incremental undo or something along those lines,
01:56where it reduces the mathematical effect of the Variations command. All it's
02:00doing is taking the after version of the image and mixing it with the before
02:04version of the image. That's it.
02:06So, if I were to change it to 50%, it would be a 50-50 mix of the two. Or I am
02:12going to go ahead and take this value up, because I want to mostly keep the
02:15results of my modification. I am pressing Shift+Up Arrow, of course, and then I
02:19will go ahead and nudge this value by pressing the Up Arrow key to 85%.
02:23So that's what I like, anyway. You could try something else. So click OK in
02:27order to apply that modification. Now we can run a good comparison between
02:31Balanced Maxula.psd, which is the version that I corrected using the Color
02:36Balance command.
02:37Now, he does have some rosier skin detail going on here, but we are not going
02:41far enough in terms of getting the yellow out of this image, notice that. Even
02:46if I were to increase this blue value, then we just start getting these pink colors.
02:50So we are really never able to get something that is exactly what I wanted to
02:54be and I just, by the way, modified the yellow blue value here inside the
02:58Adjustments palette, because the anti-red adjustment layer is active.
03:02So I just don't feel like we can get the yellow out of here to the degree that
03:06I want to. Let's try something like 50%, perhaps. It's like halfway decent, but
03:10still not what I want. Whereas Count Maxula.jpg, the colors are in a lot better
03:15shape in my opinion. We have done a better job of getting rid of those yellows,
03:19the cheeks and stuff are quite so rosy, but they are looking awfully darn good.
03:24This I would say is a pretty well balanced image.
03:27Now, just one other thing, his eyes to me are too blue. So I am going to grab
03:32the History Brush tool. So I could get by pressing the Y key, of course, and I
03:36will right-click inside the image and change the Master Diameter. I will just
03:39bring it up a little bit to maybe about 70. Actually, it might work out pretty nicely.
03:43Press the Enter key a couple of times, Return key on the Mac, and then I should
03:46just be able to paint inside of those eyes to get rid of that blueness and
03:52that's way too much. Now he's got these really evil red eyes that I don't think
03:58they suit him. So I will go ahead and undo that modification.
04:01First of all, let's make sure things are right inside the History palette. They
04:04are. We are identifying the original version of Max as the source for our
04:10painting, so that's good. So I'll put that back away. But the opacity value is
04:13too high, I think. So let's go ahead and reduce that opacity value to 50% and
04:17now let's see what happens when we paint inside of the eyes.
04:20It's starting to look better. I will go ahead and paint this back as well. This
04:26looks pretty darn good. Now I have gone too far, I have painted too much into
04:29the edges of the eyes. Let's go and zoom in so we can inspect these details a
04:33little more closely.
04:34I will go back to the History palette, and this time I am going to identify
04:38this item right here, Fade Variations, which was the After version of Max. I am
04:43going to identify that is the source for my History Brush modifications by
04:48clicking on at there.
04:49Then I will put that palette away once again. I will make my brush just a
04:52little bigger by increasing that Master Diameter value, let's say to about
04:57something like a 100, I think, it will work out nicely for us. Press the Enter
05:00key a couple of times.
05:01Now I am also going to reinstate the opacity value back up to a 100% and then I
05:06will paint right up next to the edge of that eye and up here as well. Then do
05:12the same thing over in this eye, including not only the iris, but also the
05:16underside of the eye and top area as well.
05:19There we have it, a corrected version of the image. It looks so good! Now I
05:22will zoom out, so we can take in the entire image. Oh my gosh! It looks so good!
05:25Now the final thing I would like to do is to do a before and after
05:29comparison. I want to see the original version of the image and compare it to
05:32this version of the image.
05:34We will do that, taking advantage of a special technique that involves the
05:38Revert command, in the very next exercise.
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Revert and Undo (for before and after)
00:00I am looking at the final corrected version of the Count Maxula.jpeg image and
00:04at this point I would like to do a before and after preview. I would like to
00:07see how far we have come. So take a look at the original image, compare it to
00:11our modified version of the image. But that's no easy feat or one would think,
00:16because this is been a multi-step procedure. So I can't just press Ctrl+Z or
00:20Command+Z on the Mac, right.
00:21Now I could bring up the History palette, if I wanted to, either by clicking on
00:26this icon or choosing History from the Window menu and then I could click on
00:29the snapshot right at the top, which was generated when we first open the
00:33image, and then click on History Brush to look at the after version or after
00:37clicking here I could press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on the Mac to go back and forth.
00:41But that's a little bit cumbersome especially compared to this wicked cool
00:46technique that I am going to show you right now. So let's go ahead and switch
00:48back to the last state. Go ahead and hide the History palette and then I am
00:52going to go up to the File menu and choose the Revert command.
00:56Now, in any other software this would be dangerous, this is like a third real
01:00command, not one you want to touch lightly and you get a warning message that
01:04would say, hey! Are you sure, you want to through away all of your edits and
01:07reload the original image from disc? But, Photoshop not only does it not give
01:13you an air message as we will see in just a moment, it gives you a keyboard
01:15shortcut, it says hey! Go ahead and press F12 by accident and revert your image.
01:20All right, so it's really handy keyboard shortcut by the way F12 remember it
01:24and I will go ahead and choose Revert and no air message, no alert, no nothing
01:29just goes ahead and reloads the original image from disc and that's because --
01:34take a look at this. I will go up to the History palette. That's because this
01:36is just another operation, another state, that's been added to the History
01:41palette here.
01:41So I will go ahead and hide the History palette once again. That means it's
01:44undoable. Go up to the Edit menu and you can see Undo Revert, Ctrl+Z and if I
01:49choose that command or press the keyboard shortcut Command+Z on the Mac, of
01:52course, then the command now becomes Redo Revert, so I can just go back and
01:55forth. So this is the before version. I get to it by pressing Ctrl+Z or
02:00Command+Z on the Mac, and this is the after version.
02:03So obviously we have made an extraordinary amount of progress using variations
02:08combined with the Fade command, combined with the History Brush and of course,
02:12the Revert command in order to do a before and after preview.
02:16That, my friends, is how you address the color cast here inside Photoshop.
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Hue and saturation
00:00In this exercise, we are going to take on another one of the old men of
00:03color correction inside of Photoshop and this is the Hue/Saturation command.
00:08Now I have opened an image called Yellow slats.psd, found inside the
00:1105_color_correct folder and there is two ways that we could approach this
00:16image. One is to go up to the Image menu and choose-- notice that the
00:20Adjustments Command is dimmed. That's because nothing is selected in the Layers
00:24palette. Every once in a while that happens to you, that is no layer is selected.
00:28I will go ahead and click on Wheel, which is what I would like you to do as
00:31well. See? Notice if I click underneath that deselects it. Kind of odd because
00:35you never want nothing selected, but anyway, I will go ahead and click on Wheel
00:39to make it active. Then go up to the Image menu. Now these commands are
00:42available. I could choose Adjustments and then choose Hue/Saturation and notice
00:46that it has a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+U or Command+U on the Mac.
00:51The idea behind Hue/Saturation is that you can modify the hues, which are the
00:55core color values independently from the saturation, which is the intensity of
00:59those colors independently of the lightness, which is how bright the colors are
01:03and I will show you what I mean by all that in just a moment. But I could apply
01:07a static color adjustment or I could apply Hue/Saturation as in Adjustment
01:11Layer and I am going to do the later because I want to go ahead and affect both
01:14of these layers at the same time. Let me show you what I mean.
01:18Notice first of all that we have this underlying layer, right here. I will turn
01:21off the Wheel layer for a moment. This underlying layer and these are slats of
01:25wood painted yellow, but let's say I want to change it to some other color and
01:29then on top of that I have this Color Wheel right here, which is that exact
01:34same color wheel that we saw inside the colorgraph.psd file, which I have
01:38opened inside the Bridge. And this is the wheel that goes from red to yellow to
01:42green and all the way back to red again.
01:45And that's exactly the same wheel that I have added to this wheel layer, just
01:48without the text. So we still have red at zero degrees, yellow at 60 degrees
01:53and so on. This will afford us the ability to see exactly what's going on as we
01:57are changing the color of the slats.
01:58All right go to Adjustments palette, right here, make sure it's on screen, make
02:02sure the wheel layer is active. That's very important because in Adjustment
02:06Layer will change all layers below it. So that means both wheel and background
02:11in our case. Then go to this icon right there, see how we have got
02:15Hue/Saturation in the upper left corner of the Adjustments palette, click on it
02:19or if you wanted to name the layer, you could Alt-click or Option-click on it,
02:22I am not too concerned about the layer name this time around.
02:25Now here are our slider bars, Hue, Saturation and Lightness. Now of the three,
02:30Hue and Saturation are by far the better controls hence the name of the command
02:33is Hue/Saturation. Lightness is so bad as to be of almost no value whatsoever.
02:39Let me show you what lightness does, might I will start off with the odd guy
02:42out. I am going to bring up the Histogram palette and bring it over here once
02:45again, so we can keep an eye on it. Then hide these guys.
02:48All right, let's update the histogram. Watch what happens to the histogram when
02:52I darken the light. See how it just gets squished over there. So basically
02:57black stays black but white moves all the way over from where it was, to this
03:01new position.
03:02So it's just compressing the brightness range, it's not doing anything good for
03:06the image. It just making white darker and squishing the other colors and if I
03:11increase the Lightness value, we get exactly the opposite effect. I make black
03:15lighter and then squish everything in between. Either way when we are working
03:19with the continuous tone photographs as we are in this case, we get bad results.
03:23All right let's grab Mr. Histogram, put him back over here inside of this
03:27column, change Lightness back to zero or I could just click on this icon right
03:33there in order to reset my adjustments to the defaults.
03:37Now let's take a look at the really great commands. I am going to zoom in on my
03:40image, a couple of clicks here and drag it to a different location, so that we
03:45can see the color wheel up close as well as the slats of yellow wood in the
03:49background. Now, watch what happens with Hue, if I change this hue we are going
03:54to see the colors revolve around the wheel. Do you see that happening? The red
03:59is revolving in a counterclockwise direction here as I am reducing the hue
04:03value, as I am dragging the slider triangle to the left.
04:06And then I could move it clockwise, if I increase the hue value and all of the
04:13other colors rotate along with and you can see that by this point when I change
04:17the hue value to +167, we are changing the slats of wood to blue, so that's
04:22kind of interesting. Then the saturation value is going to change the intensity
04:25of the colors. I want you to watch this center area where we have the low
04:28intensity colors where the colors are going to gray.
04:31When I increase that Saturation value, look at those hues, start to expand into
04:35that region so that we have high saturation values all the way to the center of
04:40that circle and if I decrease the Saturation value, notice that all of the
04:44colors are declining toward gray, over time. So a Saturation value of -100
04:49always results in gray, that is no hue whatsoever, and a saturation value of
04:54+100 always results in the screaming hue value, just these rainbow colors
04:59throughout the image.
05:00All right, so that's what's happening with Hue and Saturation. In the next
05:04exercise, I am going to show you how to change these slats of yellow wood to
05:08red along with our paint drips and everything else but this time we are going
05:12to use the Static Hue/Saturation command, just for the sake of variety.
Collapse this transcript
Changing the color of paint
00:00Here we are looking at the modified version of the Yellow slats.psd image
00:04that's found inside the 05_color_ correct folder. Now I went ahead and added
00:08this absurd Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. I say absurd because there is no
00:12reason we would want to change the entire image to highly saturated blue as I
00:16have done here. So I might as well get rid of that adjustment layer.
00:19So if you have been working along with me, here is the easiest way to get rid
00:21of it. Just press the Backspace or Delete key and on the Mac that would just be
00:25the Delete key because there is no Backspace key, to get rid of the layer.
00:28If you don't get a warning or anything here inside Photoshop CS4. If you did it
00:32by mistake you just press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on the Mac in order to bring back
00:36the layer. Anyway, I am going to press Backspace or Delete. That guy is gone
00:39and then I am going to turn off the Wheel layer and click on the Background
00:43layer to make it active.
00:44Now in this exercise, we are going to change these yellow slats of wood to red
00:49using the static Hue/Saturation command. And the only reason we are using the
00:53static command, is I want to show you a couple things about how the command
00:56works. It's a little different.
00:57All right, so we are going up to Image menu, choosing Adjustments, choosing
01:01Hue/Saturation. You have got a keyboard shortcut Ctrl+U, Command U on a Mac.
01:05Choose it; here is the dialog box right there. Now first thing I am going to do
01:09is just make an absurd adjustment like so. Just goof around with the Hue,
01:14Saturation and Lightness values.
01:16I was showing you how inside the Adjustments palette, we have an option that's
01:21available right about here that allows you to restore the previously used
01:24settings. In the Hue/Saturation dialog box you can also reset the values but in
01:29a different way. You press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac and notice
01:33your Cancel button turns into a Reset button. So with Alt or Option down, click
01:37on Reset and then you have got your old values back. Then release Alt or Option
01:41to restore the Cancel button.
01:43All right, here is what we want to do. We want to send the colors toward red
01:48and you can see that going from yellow to red is a negative modification. It's
01:52a clockwise adjustment on the big color wheel. Here I will go ahead and bring
01:56up the color wheel for a moment, so we can see that going from yellow to red is
01:59a clockwise adjustment. That means it's a negative adjustment.
02:03So all of the counterclockwise adjustments are positive, all of the clockwise
02:09ones are negative. And I don't really expect you to remember that, just
02:12something to bear in mind if you can remember it, if not, just play around with
02:15the value here or just look at these color bars down here, you will see that
02:19they are showing you the way to go.
02:21So to go from yellow to red is to leftward. So let's drag this guy leftward.
02:26That is a negative modification as you can see. Now as I drag this slider
02:29triangle over to the left, I have got a negative value and you can see that the
02:33second rainbow bar is changing. It's transforming to represent our
02:36modification. So it's telling me that anything that used to be yellow is now
02:39going to be mapped to this color, red. Anything that used to be green is going
02:43to go to yellow and anything cyan is going to go to green and anything that's
02:46like magenta is going to blue and so on and so on.
02:49I will go ahead and increase that value a little bit because I want the slats
02:53to look like this. This very vivid red. Well, I don't really want them to be
02:57that vivid, of course. So I am going to have to go ahead and reduce the
03:01saturation. So when you change the Hue of your colors, they may end up becoming
03:06more saturated or less saturated.
03:09As a result in our case, these particular slats happened to be growing more
03:12saturated on us. So we need to reduce the Saturation value and notice as I do,
03:18if I would take that saturation value way down, I am also changing this second
03:21color ramp. It's also growing dimmer to represent my changes.
03:24So again, it's telling me yellow is going to go to whatever color this is, that
03:28murky red right there. I am going to take this up to about -40, it actually
03:33works out nicely and you have those same options of scrubbing by the way and
03:37Shift+Scrubbing and using the arrow keys and on and on. But these are the
03:41values I want, -50, -40. That's it. Click OK and then when I zoom in you can
03:46see that not only have we changed the slats of wood here from yellow to red, we
03:51have also changed the paint drips in kind.
03:53So we have a very realistic modification. So just to give you an idea, this is
03:57before and this is after. It has also affected this plastic just a little bit.
04:01So it used to be a yellower plastic as you could see here, now it's pretty reddish.
04:06Now this stuff here, in case it looks like noise, that is to say random
04:11variations between neighboring pixels, it's not. This is actually image data
04:15that was captured by the digital camera. These are the original grains of wood
04:19poking through the texture, that is of the wood, showing through the paint and
04:23that's a good thing. So this is a very realistic modification. Thanks to the
04:27Hue/Saturation command.
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Adjusting hues selectively
00:00So far we have seen how you can use the Hue/Saturation command to change all
00:04the colors inside of an image, but what if you just want to change one group of
00:08colors to a different group of colors.
00:10For example, I want to take this little girl's violet turtleneck and change it
00:14to some other color. Well, that is something that we can do. You can isolate
00:18color ranges inside of Hue /Saturation. Here is how.
00:22Go ahead and open up the Girl in violet.jpg image. It's found inside the
00:2505_color_correct folder and this image comes to us from the PhotoSpin image
00:30library and you can learn all about that library by going to PhotoSpin.com.
00:34Now I want to replay the last color settings that I applied, and you can do
00:39that by pressing and holding the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac as you
00:44choose one of the color correction commands.
00:46For example, if while I have Alt or Option down, I choose Hue/Saturation, or if
00:51I press the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Alt+ U or Command+Option+U on a Mac, I will
00:56revisit my last settings, which were a Hue value of -50 and a Saturation value
01:01of -40.
01:02The only reason, I am bringing those back up is just to show you that I am
01:05changing all of the colors inside of this image in kind, using this Hue value
01:12here. So you can see at a Hue of -99, I am changing her flesh to this sort of
01:18lilac color, as well as, her turtleneck to a kind of turquoise. That's not what
01:22I want of course, so I will press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac and
01:25click on this Reset button in order to restore my values of 0 across the board.
01:30Notice this guy right there, Master. If I click on this down pointing
01:33arrowhead, I can change to some other range of colors including one of our
01:38primaries, Reds, Yellows, Greens, Cyans, Blues, Magentas, all of which are
01:42expressed as plurals because this is a range of magentas, for example, and this
01:47is a range of blues.
01:49And blues, by the way, I will go ahead and choose Blues for a moment and then
01:52let's go back to the big color wheel right here. Blues is going to include
01:57everything in this area right there, dropping off into magenta and dropping off
02:02into cyan. So it starts at blue and then it slowly drops off in this region here.
02:09Whereas if I choose magenta, it would include this range of colors and then
02:12slowly drop off along here and here. I really want a nail-violet, which is
02:18right in between the two, but if anything the little girl's turtleneck is more
02:22in the magenta side of things than the blue side of things. So we will go ahead
02:25and choose Magenta for now.
02:26So I am going to Alt+Tab or Option+ Tab my way back into Photoshop. Let's go
02:31ahead and set this option to Magenta, and notice that all of these options have
02:36keyboard shortcuts. If you are interested in learning them, you can, there they are.
02:40All right, so I will go ahead and select Magentas, and now I am going to change
02:44my Hue value. We will see what happens, and note that I am doing a fair job of
02:49just changing the colors inside of her blouse. I went ahead and raised that
02:53value to +180, just so that we are making the biggest color modification we
02:57can, by spinning the colors 180 degrees there. But we are picking up some
03:02colors inside of her flesh tones.
03:05So inside this jowls for example, if a child can have jowls, and above her lip,
03:09and on the bridge of her nose, and I think inside of her glasses too. I think
03:13we are picking up some stuff there. Yup, we sure are and that's no good. We
03:16want to isolate it just to her turtleneck, how in the world do we do that?
03:20Well, I will show you in the next exercise.
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Refining your color range
00:00Okay, so I am working inside the Girl in violet.jpg image found inside the
00:0405_color_correct folder. I have set the Hue/Saturation command to Magentas and
00:10changed the Magentas to Hue of +180. So I have rotated all of the Magentas half
00:15way around the color circle for maximum effect here. And I am picking up colors
00:20all throughout the image. I just want to isolate my changes, however, to her turtleneck.
00:26So here is what you do. Notice, if you move your cursor out of the dialog box,
00:29when any of these items are selected except for Master. So I could even go to
00:34Yellows for all of that. I could make Yellows active and then well actually if
00:39I do that; however, I better go ahead and Alt or Option+Reset. So press the Alt
00:44or Option button and click on Reset to get rid of the bad color modification. I
00:48will switch to Yellows; it's just something that's completely not what I want.
00:52So that you will see what happens here.
00:54And now, if I move my cursor out, when anything but Master is selected, I go
00:58ahead and move my cursor out, then it changes into a little eyedropper, notice
01:02that, and I will move over to her shoulder and click on it. And notice that
01:07Photoshop is smart enough to say, you don't mean Yellows, you mean Magentas and
01:11a very specific range of Magentas as well. So it's gone ahead and isolated this
01:16region of Magentas right here, which is centered and notice that's centered on
01:20violet. So that's very different than the standard Magentas, which is now
01:24called Magentas 2. See how that shifted over? This range here is centered on
01:28Magenta, and now this Magenta is centered on Violet.
01:32So now, it's not smart enough to know that it should call them Violets; it just
01:35knows that it's closer to be in Magentas and Blues at this point. All right, so
01:39let's see what kind of job it's done. I will go ahead and change the Hue value
01:43to +180 and look at that, first of all, different colors. This is showing up as
01:47green now, but also no jowls affected, no bridge of the nose, no above the
01:52lips, nothing inside the glasses, brilliant, except for you can see we are
01:56missing half of her shirt in the background here.
01:58So to fix this, I press and hold the Shift key. If you look very closely at the
02:02eyedropper, notice that has a little + sign next to it now. That shows you that
02:05we are going to add colors to the mix. So press and hold the Shift key and then
02:10click and drag across this area of colors back here. See how that works and we
02:16have just gone ahead and incorporated all of these colors inside of her shirt
02:20and we went ahead and expanded the range of colors that's covered here.
02:25Now this area between the straight little guys that's dark grey, that
02:30represents the colors that are getting completely changed. So everything from
02:33cyan over here to magenta is getting absolutely changed, and then this area is
02:39the soft drop-off, so that we don't have any hard transitions. So this area is
02:43getting just slightly changed over here and this area over here is getting
02:48slightly changed as well and we had to go ahead and send this triangle to the
02:51other side of the ramp because it ran out of room.
02:55The Cyans are basically taped together though. You can think of this as going
02:58around in a circle. All right, actually this looks really, really great. Now we
03:03have isolated the colors very nicely. I don't think she should be wearing a
03:06green shirt, however, so I am going to bring this Hue value back to about 80. I
03:12think it's going to work out pretty nicely. What that does is that makes her
03:15turtleneck match her glasses and her lips, which is so important of course.
03:19We are excesserising (or) and then I think it's a little too saturated, so I
03:23click in the Saturation value there, and I will press Shift+Down Arrow twice.
03:28So we have got a +80, -20. Here is our range, wonderful job of isolating that
03:34turtleneck. I will go ahead and click OK, and now let's press Ctrl+Z for the
03:38before view and Ctrl+Z again for after. That's Command+Z on the Mac and
03:42Command+Z again, and you can see that there we are changing the highlights
03:44inside of those glasses as well, but that doesn't bother me at all. This looks dynamite.
03:50In the next exercise, we are going to take a look at something of a more real
03:53world example, how you might actually use everything I showed you to really
03:57correct, not apply a special effect, but correct an image that needs a lot of
04:02correction, coming right up.
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Enhancing a low-saturation image
00:00So here is this spooky image. It's called The treehouse.tif and this is a tree house,
00:05a rickety old tree house. And as you can see this night shot came
00:09up pretty done well but we're losing all kinds of saturation and who knows if
00:13the hues are accurate or not because we can't see them.
00:16So let's go ahead and apply the Hue/ Saturation command. It's brilliant for
00:20these purposes and you can either apply the command as a static adjustment,
00:23which is what I am going to do, or you can apply it from the Adjustments
00:28palette right there as an Adjustment layer.
00:30I am going to go up to the Image menu, choose Adjustments, and choose
00:34Hue/Saturation. And then, I am going to crank that saturation value way up
00:40through the roof up to +100, so we can see what in world is going on here. And
00:44there are saturation values inside of this image; they were just so subtle in
00:48the past, now we are really bringing them out. This is too much, though this is
00:53radioactive and we are really increasing the differences between neighboring
00:58pixels or bringing out all kinds of noise and other garbage inside of the image.
01:02So I am going to press Shift+Down arrow for a value of +90, and that works out
01:07brilliantly. It looks great. Then I am going to go ahead and adjust the Hue
01:12value as well. Notice that, the colors inside of the wood are too red, I want
01:17to make it more yellow, and you may recall that yellow is located at 60 degrees
01:22versus red at 0 degrees. So that means we need to make a positive adjustment to
01:27the Hue value. So I am going to press Shift+Up arrow to get a Hue value of +10
01:32and that looks great.
01:33So we have made quite of the modification. The only problem is that the sky
01:39now, where the wood is looking really great I think, this sky is looking too
01:43violet and a little too saturated as well. I think we have set it too high.
01:48So I would like to modify the sky independently of everything else in the
01:51image and I am going to do that using this tool right here, new to Photoshop
01:55CS4 in the next exercise.
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The new Target Adjustment tool
00:00So here I am looking at this corrected version of this tree house, which is
00:04called The treehouse.tif, and I have applied a Hue value of +10 and a
00:08Saturation value of +90 and incidentally I should say, just in case you are
00:13curious, so it's this Colorize check box down here. Just in case you have been
00:16seeing here, wondering why I have been ignoring it and what it does.
00:19If you turn it on, you are going to colorize the whole image with a single Hue
00:22value, notice that, it right there and you can just change the Hue in order to
00:26infuse whatever color you like in to the image or you are just going to get
00:29this monochrome image, that is black and white plus one other color. We don't
00:33want that so turned Colorize back off and notice it goes ahead and restores our
00:37original Hue and Saturation values. That's nice.
00:40Here is what we want to do. We want to change the sky selectively off the wood.
00:44So right now the values that we have applied were great for the wood coloring
00:48throughout the image, not so good for the sky. So we want to change that sky a
00:52little bit, make it a lower saturation sky, a little less violet as well.
00:56And I could of course, go up here to this pop up menu and choose Blues instead
01:01and then use my eyedropper to find exactly, which blues we are going to work
01:04with and then modify the values, but you can do all of that, all three of those
01:08step using this new tool right here, new to Photoshop CS4, so here is what we
01:13are going to do. I want you to click on that tool to make it active and the
01:16name of this tool is the Target Adjustment tool. Now you will know that from
01:19the tip it just tells you how to use the tool.
01:22The reason I know it's called the Target Adjustment tool it's because that's
01:24what it called inside of Light Room, Adobe Light Room, which is where this tool
01:29hales from and incidentally this tool is also available to you if you are
01:32working along with me inside the Adjustments palette.
01:35So go ahead and select the tool and notice that it will appear selected, it's
01:38pressed in other words. Then I want you to move your cursor below the wood,
01:43down in this area below the treehouse. That is, into this open area of sky and
01:46I want you to click and hold and then go ahead and drag. Notice that we've got
01:51this little finger cursor with arrows going to the left and the right and
01:54that's because that's where you drag. You drag either to the left or to the
01:57right to change the Saturation value.
02:00So if I drag to the right, I am going to increase the saturation, if I drag to
02:04the left I am going to decrease the saturation and I am just kind of eyeballing
02:08it here to above let's say -40, looks pretty nicely and you can see the value
02:13up there inside the dialog box. Notice that the Saturation value now set to -40
02:17and that top-left pop menu here is set to Blues. But it's a special group of
02:22blues and we did that all in one operation. That's so awesome.
02:25Now, let's say, I also want to spin the Hue values. I could change the Hue
02:29value, of course if I wanted to or I could press the Ctrl key or the Command
02:34key on the Mac and drag again with this eyedropper in the same location. So I
02:38have got the Ctrl key down on the PC, the Command key down on the Mac, then
02:41drag to the left to rotate the Hues in the clockwise direction or drag in the
02:45right to rotate the Hues in the counterclockwise direction.
02:49What that means in our case is that we want to drag or Ctrl+Drag actually,
02:53Ctrl+Drag or Command+Drag slightly to the left, until the Hue value up there
02:57inside the Hue/Saturation dialog box says -10 and that's going to go ahead and
03:02rotate our Hues ever so slightly away from purple into blue and now we are
03:08done. That is the modification. I will go ahead and click OK in order to accept
03:11that change and now just to give you sense of how much we have accomplished in
03:15this image, this is before and this is after.
03:19It's amazing that this image, here the before version of the image actually has
03:23that color in it. It looks almost like a black and white image, but it does
03:26it's got all the stuff that we are able to draw forth, which still needs a
03:30little bit of adjustment. I still feel like the Saturation is too low,
03:34the Color Intensity is still less than I would like to see and we are going to bring
03:37out that Color Intensity using a new command inside of Photoshop CS4 called
03:42Vibrance, in the next exercise.
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Boosting colors with Vibrance
00:00In this final exercise, I am going to show you a new color adjustment command
00:04inside Photoshop CS4, which goes by the name of Vibrance, and you can apply it
00:08in one of two ways.
00:09Now I am working in a modified version of The treehouse.tif file. We have done
00:12a terrific job of converting the image from this almost to black and white
00:16image to this a color accurate version of the scene that I actually saw when I
00:22was snapping the photo, using just the Hue/Saturation command. But we already
00:25have those saturation values pumped up to +90. We couldn't go any farther
00:29without ripping the image apart. We still need more saturation, let's say.
00:33So I can achieve that effect using the Vibrance command and you can apply
00:38Vibrance in one or two ways. One is to go this option here inside the
00:42Adjustments palette, this sort of sort of upside down purple cone right here,
00:46which allows you to apply a Vibrance Adjustment Layer or you go up to the Image
00:50menu, you choose Adjustments and you choose Vibrance right there. And that's
00:53what I am going to do, just because I have already approach this image on a
00:56static basis so far.
00:57So I will choose Vibrance, and I have got two sliders, one is the Vibrance
01:02slider. Now Vibrance is very much like a saturation adjustment. It's a color
01:07intensity adjustment except that it affects low saturation colors more than
01:11high saturation colors. So it's basically an equal opportunity saturation
01:16lender. It's going to favor those colors that need saturation the most.
01:20Then we also have the Saturation slider. Now the saturation value inside the
01:24Hue/Saturation dialog box can end up affecting luminance. So the brightness of
01:29the colors where saturation is designed not to change luminance at all. But
01:34they both can be heaped on to the changes we have already applied.
01:38So I am going to take the Saturation value way up all the way to +100 and
01:43notice we are not having problems with the colors getting ripped apart, we are
01:46not having problems with noise inside of the image or any of that. It does a
01:50beautiful job just bringing out the rich olors that are in here, that's inside this image.
01:54Now I think I am bringing out too much. So let's go ahead and press Shift+Down
01:58Arrow a couple of times to take that Vibrance value down to -80 and then just
02:03because we can, I am going to raise the saturation value as well. I am going to
02:07take it up by pressing Shift+Up Arrow. I am going to take it up to +30 and now
02:11it looks like we are shining a yellow light up into this tree house here. So
02:16that it's under lit, which I think is really cool, make it spooky or I think.
02:20So that's what I am applying. You can go your own way, of course, but I have
02:23got +80, +30, click OK. Now let's see how far we have come, this is how far we
02:28have come adjust that command. This was before I applied the command just a
02:31moment ago, this is after and just to see the original, original image, I will
02:37press the F12 key, which you may recall reverts the image. So F12 followed by
02:42Ctrl+Z or Command+Z on the Mac, is that not outstanding.
02:46You know it's so outstanding. Then I am going to switch to the Full Screen mode
02:51and then I am going to scroll the image down a little bit. So again here is the
02:54original version of the image almost gray scale and this is the final version
02:59of the image with this rich array of beautiful hues. Thanks to the
03:02Hue/Saturation command working along with the Target Adjustment tool and the
03:06Vibrance command, the latter two of which are new to Photoshop CS4.
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6. Image Size and Resolution
Imaging fundamentals
00:01This chapter deals with one of the most fundamental topics in all of Photoshop,
00:05changing and managing the number of pixels inside an image, and to fully
00:09understand this topic, you need to come to terms with the concept of image
00:13size. Image size refers to the dimensions of an image, how many pixels wide by
00:18how many tall. As we will see, image size also includes print size, how many
00:23inches or if you prefer millimeters wide by tall. Print size ultimately
00:28informs the resolution, which is how many pixels print inside an inch.
00:33Scaling an image often involves changing the number of pixels. This means
00:37throwing away pixels or making up new ones, otherwise known as resampling.
00:43Resampling is best performed after you get the colors in line, for two reasons.
00:47First, you will get the best results when color correcting full resolution
00:51photos and second, resampling can help smooth out the rough transitions
00:56sometimes produced by commands like Brightness/Contrast and Hue/Saturation.
01:01Here is how it works.
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What is image size?
00:00In this exercise, I am going to introduce you to the concept of image size,
00:04which is a very simple fundamental topic. Basically Image Size is the physical
00:10dimensions of the image, how many pixels wide by how many pixels tall. That's
00:15all there is to it and in case you are not quite clear on what a pixel is,
00:18you will see in just a moment. But that very simple concept goes to the core of
00:25Photoshop, it goes to the very heart of how you work with digital images and
00:29it introduces a lot of questions.
00:30For example, how many pixels do you need? How many pixels should you be
00:34capturing with your digital camera? How many pixels should you be capturing
00:37with your scanner? What resolution should you be using? How many pixels does it
00:41take to print an image successfully? What if you don't have enough pixels? Can
00:45you add pixels to an image? Should you ever subtract pixels from an image or
00:48should you just be changing the resolution and leaving the pixels alone?
00:52What is resolution in the first place? Every one of those questions I will answer
00:57over the course of this chapter.
01:00So here is what I want you to do for starters. I would like you to open this
01:03image. It's called Picture puzzle-lo. jpg and it's a piece of grayscale artwork
01:08that I scanned at a very low resolution, as we will learn in a moment, and this
01:12is a scan of a cartoon that I drew years and years ago, back when I used to do
01:17this kind of work on a regular basis. Back when I was a stripling and I would
01:21draw cartoons for clients as commercial work and this happens to be a fairly
01:25elaborate picture puzzle that ends up spelling out a quote by Samuel Butler.
01:31That's what this end part is, and in case you are trying to do this, this is a
01:34cab, just so you know and this is a cat going purr and these are cities. This
01:40area, these three guys, they are mob, and this I think is the hardest one to
01:44identify, it's a mission, not a church, but a mission, but otherwise I think it
01:48is fairly straightforward. In any event it's not really about the puzzle; it's
01:52about the pixels inside that puzzle.
01:54So notice that we are seeing the image at 100% view size, which means that we
01:59are seeing one image pixel for very screen pixel. So there is a one to one
02:02ratio, which means we are seeing the image, at the most accurate size possible,
02:07but let's say that we wanted to zoom in on the image, I will press and hold the
02:10Z key, in order to get the zoom tool on the fly and click and hold inside the
02:15queen and notice as we zoom in, we don't gain more clarity, we just get bigger
02:21and bigger pixels, because we were already maxed out at the 100% view size,
02:25there were no more pixels to see by zooming in, so the pixels just get bigger
02:29and bigger and there they are.
02:30You can actually see these pixels distinguish from each other by this pixel
02:35grid right here. So that's a single pixel right there, so that's what's going
02:39on with Photoshop in general and with digital imagery in general, is that you
02:43have these colored pixels and they just appear to blend together like this
02:48massively complex mosaic essentially and all these pixels when we zoom out from
02:53them, before into thinking that we are seeing continuous detail.
02:57Now in our case because we are working with a grayscale image and this is an
03:01eight bit per channel image as we can see by the 8 after the slash inside the
03:07title tab right there that tells us that we have two to eighth power of
03:12different shades of color going on, which means that we have 256. Two to eighth
03:17power is 256. So we have black and we have white and then we have got 254
03:23different shades of grey inside of this image.
03:25So that's a lot of color actually to work with, a fair amount of color. We just
03:29don't have many pixels and to see exactly how many pixels we have, I am going
03:33to bring up the Info palette, which I could do by clicking on this little info
03:37button right there or I could go to the Window menu and choose the Info command
03:41or I could press F8 that's a keyboard shortcut that Photoshop gives you and
03:46notice that brings up the Info palette right there and I can see that the size
03:50of my image is 325.6k in RAM, which is not very big. That's a very small image.
03:58So Photoshop can handle this image, very, very easily. It doesn't take much
04:02time to process anything.
04:03Now you want to make sure that you are working with pixels, it's very
04:06important. So you could click on this Plus sign right there and just make sure
04:08it's set to pixels, like so. It is, so that's good. I want to be able to see,
04:13however, the pixel dimensions of my image inside the Info palette. Also I don't
04:16really care about seeing this little tool tip. You may find it helpful that
04:21every time you select a different tool, you can see some tricks for using the
04:24tool over here at the bottom of the Info palette, but I am going to get rid of that.
04:28So here's what I want you to do. Go ahead and click on this menu icon right
04:32there, to bring up the fly out menu, and I will choose panel Options and then I
04:37am going to turn on Document Profile and Document Dimensions, I would like you
04:40to do that as well. Document Profile will show you the color profile that's
04:43associated with an image, which can be helpful, especially if you are images
04:47are coming from different sources and then Document Dimensions will show you
04:51the image size.
04:52I am going to turn off Tool Hints, like I said I don't find them to be very
04:55useful, you can turn them off or not, it's up to you, I will click OK, now. Now
05:00I can see that this image measures 702 pixels wide, by 475 pixels tall and if
05:06you do the math, if you multiply 704 by 475, you will see that you will have a
05:10total of 333,450 pixels inside this image. Now that may seem like a lot,
05:16333,450 pixels, where we are talking about anything else like, packs of gum or
05:22cigarettes or dollar bills, 333,450 would be a lot. It lasts you quite a while,
05:27but when we are talking about pixels, it's nothing.
05:30I mean think about it. That's not even one mega pixel. That's like a third of a
05:35mega pixel. That's it. Also our resolution value is 100 PPI. That's pixels per inch.
05:41That's what PPI stands for and that's pixels per linear inch
05:45incidentally, which means that were we to print this image inside of any inch,
05:49we would have 100 pixels wide and a 100 pixels tall, so a total of 100 times of
05:54100, which is 10,000 pixels inside of that inch. Again, that sounds like a lot.
05:59That's nothing, that's not nearly not we want. We want many more pixels than
06:03that. So how do we go about doing that? How do we go about gaining more pixels
06:07in an image? How do we go about gaining more clarity? That's a question that I
06:12am going to begin to answer for you starting in the next exercise.
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The Image Size command
00:00In this exercise I am going to introduce you to the Image Size command, which
00:05may be Photoshop's most essential command, bar none. So I am still inside this
00:11Picture puzzle-lo.jpg image. I am going to Ctrl+1 or Command+1 on the Mac to go
00:16ahead and zoom back out to the 100% zoom ratio, so that we are seeing one image
00:21pixel per each screen pixel and this also gives you a sense of how dinky this image is.
00:26I mean, I am working at a 1024X768 pixel screen, which is a postage stamp of a
00:31monitor frankly, and yet I can still see this entire image and then some. Plenty
00:36of pasteboard around the edges. So let's say that we want to add pixels to
00:41the image. We would go up to the Image menu and choose the Image Size command
00:45or you can press this keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+Alt+I, Command+Option+I on the
00:49Mac and here is the Image Size dialog box now.
00:53So you can see that stuff that we saw in the previous exercise in the Info
00:57palette, you can see that the image takes up 325.6k in RAM and the reason I
01:02mention that is because on disk when you actually save the image, it's going
01:06to be smaller than that, thanks to compression. Regardless of what file format
01:10you use, its going to be smaller.
01:12So we have got a width of 702 pixels, we knew that, a height of 475 pixels as
01:17well. Here is the Document Size, which is the size at which the image will
01:21print. All of this stuff is exclusively related to the print dimensions. It has
01:25nothing to do with the dimensions of the image, if you were to view it on
01:29screen, or if you were to email to somebody or if you were to post it on a
01:32website, that's all accommodated by the Pixel dimensions up here.
01:36The Document Size is only about print, so we can see that the image when
01:41printed will have a resolution of a 100 pixels per inch and I was telling you
01:44that's not much. That's 10,000 pixels per square inch, but that's still not
01:48very much at all and then that means that the image is going to measure 7.02
01:53inches wide by 4.75 inches tall, which isn't much of a surprise actually
01:58because 702 divided by 100 is 7.02 and 475 divided by 100 is 4.75, so this all
02:05makes a lot of sense.
02:06Now let's say that I want to make this image print at a higher resolution. I am
02:13okay with the fact that it measures 7 .02 inches wide by 4.75 inches tall.
02:17That's fine by me, but this resolution value is just no good. Now what
02:21resolution do we need? There is a lot of conjecture about that and frankly,
02:26some experience goes a long way in that department. As you start to print out
02:29your images, you will find out what kinds of resolutions work out well for you,
02:33but here's some basic information.
02:36You will hear people bandy about the resolution of 267 pixels per inch. That's
02:42actually something of a commercial standard and the reason is because 267 is
02:46twice 133.3, which is a standard half tone frequency, the frequency of little
02:53half tone dots inside of an image. So if you are printing to glossy paper, for
02:58example, on a magazine or something along those lines, your half tones
03:01frequency is either going to be 133.3, in which case you want a resolution,
03:05267, so twice that. Which will mean a total four pixels for every half tone dot
03:11and if you are going with a half tone frequency of a 150 lpi or lines per inch,
03:17which is pretty much the maximum you will see out there, then you would go with
03:22a resolution value of 300. And if you are printing to an inkjet printer, you
03:27are looking at resolution value of about 360 pixels per inch at the high end.
03:31You don't have to go that high, you can get away with resolutions as low as
03:36220, often times.
03:38Now that's all for photographic imagery. What we are looking at here is the
03:41piece of line art, so we would actually like to take the resolution higher than
03:45that. For the sake of demonstration here, I am going to take the resolution to
03:49600 pixels per inch. So that is going to be a very high-resolution value and
03:54notice that I have Resample Image turned on. That's very important.
03:59If you have Resample Image turned on, you will change the number of pixels
04:03inside the image and that's what we want to do and by adding pixels, we are up
04:07sampling. If we were to reduce a number of pixels, we would be down sampling.
04:12Anyway so make sure that checkbox is on, make sure Constraint Proportions is
04:15turned on as well and Scale Styles just refers to layer styles, which we don't
04:19have inside of this image. We will be discussing those in the later chapter. At
04:23any rate you might as well have all the three checkboxes on now and this will
04:27increase the size of the image dramatically.
04:29The image is now going to measure 4212 pixels wide by 2850 pixels tall. That's
04:36the total. If you do the math once again, 4212 times 2850, you will see that
04:41there is now going to be 12 million pixels inside the image, it will be a 12
04:45mega pixel image, which is more like it and the image will grow to be 11.4 megabytes in memory.
04:53So the only things we haven't discussed about this dialog box now at this point
04:56is these options right here, which determines how Photoshop decides to go ahead
05:01and generate the new pixels inside the image. So for every one pixel that we
05:05have right now, it's going to generate 36 pixels. Six times as many pixels
05:09wide, six times as many pixels tall. So how does Photoshop determine how to
05:14convert one pixel into 36 pixels? And I am going to answer that question in the next exercise.
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Selecting an interpolation option
00:00In the previous exercise, we went ahead and chose the Image Size command from
00:04the Image menu and we turned on all these checkboxes down here and changed the
00:08resolution value to 600 pixels per inch, which means that we are making the
00:12image 600% as wide as it previously was and 600% as tall as it previously was.
00:19So six times six equals to 36 times as big as it previously was, one pixel has
00:25to grow to become 36 pixels. How does that happen?
00:29Well, that's determined by the so- called Interpolation Options down here and I
00:34will explain each one of them, just so that you have a sense of how they work.
00:37Now the most primitive of the interpolation options is Nearest Neighbor, which
00:41just takes one pixel and blows it up into 36 pixels. So it doesn't do any
00:45averaging, it doesn't try to figure out how to smooth out the differences
00:50between the pixels, it just blows up those pixels. That's it.
00:52Now that can be really useful when you are blowing up screenshots, for example
00:57and I will do this thing where I will take a screenshot of a dialog box or a
01:00window let's say and then I will blow it up to 200%, so every pixel becomes
01:05four pixels, so two times as wide, two times as tall and then I will put a high
01:09resolution inside of that. That's how I will craft my screenshots for my book.
01:13So that the images look really great and the screens look nice and sharp, but
01:17for typical day-to-day image work, you are not going to use Nearest Neighbor at
01:20all. The next line is absolutely useless in my opinion. It's a next step up,
01:25but it's just kind of right there in the middle where it serves no function
01:29whatsoever. It will go ahead and average out the pixels, it just doesn't do
01:33particularly a good job.
01:35It's quicker than the next step up, Bicubic; however, it's not that much
01:40quicker. If we were doing a massive scaling that was going to take a full
01:45minute for Photoshop to pull off then we might shave off a couple of seconds
01:49with Bilinear. In this case, we are not going to shave up, maybe a microsecond
01:53we are not going to be able to measure it.
01:54So bilinear is for the birds, Bicubic though, this next one is quite useful.
01:59Now, Bicubic is a better averaging algorithm. It looks at more pixels at a time
02:04as it's trying to generate the new pixels inside the image. Now it's saying
02:09that it's best for smooth gradients. What I want you to do is to ignore the
02:12parenthetical information, for Bicubic, Bicubic Smoother and Bicubic Sharper
02:15because they are just not accurate and I will tell you what's really going on here.
02:19Basically Bicubic as I say, looks at a lot of pixels when generating its new
02:23pixels, so it looks at the total of nine pixels at a time whereas Bicubic
02:27Smoother and Sharper, they do the same thing and then afterwards, after that
02:31operation is done, they go ahead and apply a softening function or a sharpening
02:35function, just very subtle in both cases and basically where they come in handy
02:40is if you have a lot of digital noise or film grain or other weird little
02:44artifacts inside of an image.
02:45If you do have a lot of noise, random variations between neighboring pixels
02:49then you want to go ahead and choose Bicubic Smoother, regardless of whether
02:52you are enlarging the image or reducing it. If you don't have much noise, then
02:57you want to go ahead and choose Bicubic Sharper, because that will make those
03:01edges that much crisper and in our case, we don't have any noise in this image.
03:05This is a scanned piece of line art. I have already gone ahead and made sure we
03:09don't have any noise in the image and any of the garbage that was in the image
03:13in the first place by getting rid of it, using like of the brightness contrast command.
03:17So we have a very clean image to start with, so let's go ahead and try the
03:21Bicubic Sharper, even though we are increasing the size of the image and by the
03:25way for just day-to-day resampling, you are best off using Bicubic. When in
03:30doubt, just stick with the Bicubic Option. All right but I am going with this
03:33just for the sake of demonstration here and then we are going to go ahead and
03:37increase the size of that image and we are going to do that in the very next exercise.
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Upsampling vs. "real" pixels
00:00All right gang, we are now poised to upsample the image, to add pixels to this
00:05piece of scanned artwork right here. I have requested that we send the
00:08resolution value from 100 pixels per inch to 600 pixels per inch. I have the
00:12Resample Image checkbox turned on, which means we are going to add pixels to
00:16the image. We are going to make the image six times as wide and six times as
00:20tall. Because Constraint Proportions is turned on, both values are changing in a
00:25kind. That means we are going to have six times six equals 36 times as many
00:30pixels in this image.
00:31So for every one pixel we are going to add 35 and we are going to add those 35
00:36pixels using this interpolation method right there, Bicubic Sharper, which
00:40employs Photoshop's best interpolation algorithm, which is Bicubic and then
00:44adds a little bit of sharpening on top of it. All right so here go. I am going
00:49to click on the OK button in order to apply that modification.
00:53Now we have actually grown the size of the image as you can see here, we are
00:56still looking at the image at the 100% zoom ratio, but we are looking in kind
01:00of an odd detail here. So I am going to press and hold the H key and click and
01:04hold to take advantage of that bird's eye function and I am going to scoot over
01:08to the queen right there and then release in order to pan over to that detail
01:14and you can see that we do have some smoother information going on here.
01:19It's smoother. That is than where we did simply zoom in on the image, to take
01:24her in at 600%, so we don't have six by six pixels on screen, but nor do we
01:30have very much in a way of detail. I am going to go ahead and zoom in just a
01:33little farther here to the 200% zoom ratio and you can see that what we have
01:37really done is, I guess, you could call this smoothing; I would call it gumming
01:41up the details.
01:43So notice that we have these goopy edges going on here and we are not really
01:47able to clearly distinguish what's happening in terms of the way that the image
01:52was drawn. For example what are these things underneath her jaw, right there?
01:58Well, we don't really know, do we, because Photoshop is not capable of
02:02generating detail. It is capable of taking the existing detail inside of an
02:06image and smoothing it over and gumming it up, but it is not capable of giving
02:11us more information, because it doesn't know. It doesn't know what was there in
02:14first place; it only knows what you give it.
02:16So how do we go about getting a better- looking image, something that has more
02:20clarity? Well, we scan it in a higher resolution in the first place. For
02:25example, I have got this other image up in Picture puzzle-hi.jpg. I go ahead
02:29and click on its tab in order to view it and then I am going to press Ctrl+1 or
02:34Command+1 on a Mac to zoom in to the 100% zoom ratio, and we are at that same
02:38part of the image we were at before inside of the other scan. So I am going to
02:42press and hold the H key once again in order to get that bird's eye view and
02:46then I will scoot the view over here to the queen's face and now we can see
02:50exactly what's going on underneath her jaw. We have four lines that I drew
02:54using a pen and so we have a much better depiction of what this line art looks like.
03:00So this is what we got by just blowing up that low-resolution image. It looks
03:05like crud and this is what we would get by scanning the image at a decent
03:09resolution in the first place. So to answer that question that I posed at the
03:12outside of the chapter, how many pixels do you need? You need as many pixels as
03:17you can get, so when you are photographing an image with a digital camera,
03:21forget that stuff about shooting at a lower resolution. That way you can
03:26squeeze more images on media card, what have you, never ever do that. Always
03:31photograph at the highest resolution your camera supports, because that way you
03:35have a more flexible image that you can crop if you want to, you can zoom in on
03:39it. You can do anything you want. You can turn it into poster art if you so desire.
03:43What about scanning? How big should you scan your images, whether they are
03:47photographic or line art like this? I recommend that you scan at the highest
03:51optical resolution afforded by your scanners. So go to your documentation, in
03:55the tech information you will find what the maximum optical resolution is
03:59that's the resolution that you should use.
04:01It means that you are going to get whoppingly big images, but it also means
04:05that you are going to have extremely flexible images and you are going to have
04:09all the detail you need in order to make that image print its absolute best.
04:14All right, in the next exercise I am going to show you how to change the print
04:17resolution of the image without adding or subtracting pixels, so stay tuned.
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Changing the print resolution
00:00In this exercise, we are going to change the print resolution of the image,
00:03which affects how big the image is, the actual dimensions of the image when we
00:08output it. I am looking at this image called Picture puzzle-hi found inside the
00:1206_image_size folder. So this is one that I went ahead and scanned at a
00:16reasonable resolution in the first place.
00:18Now to get a sense of how big an image is going to print, you can actually go
00:22to the File menu and choose the Print command. We won't follow through with
00:25printing here, we are just going to see the preview here inside the Print
00:29dialog box and I discussed the many options inside this dialog box in a later
00:33chapter, but for now, notice this wonderful preview that we have right there.
00:37We are seeing how the image, in this case, fits on a vertically formatted
00:41letter size page and it fits beautifully. But what if we want the image to be bigger?
00:45What if we want it to fit, let's say on a horizontally formatted page?
00:49In which case we have lots more paper to work with here. Or let's say we are
00:53sending the image out for commercial output, in which case paper size really
00:57doesn't matter. We can make that image as big or small as we wanted to be. So,
01:00let's just cancel out of here.
01:03Let's say I know that I want the image to be eight inches tall and however many
01:07inches wide. We will see what the resolution turns out to be as well, but we
01:11are really mostly concerned about eight inches tall for whatever reason. All
01:14right so we would go to the Image command and choose the Image Size command, so
01:17whether you are trying to change the number of pixels inside of an image, or
01:20the printed size of an image to print resolution, you would go to the Image
01:23Size command and notice now, I just want you to see how big this image is. It
01:28measures 8422 pixels wide by 5700 pixels tall.
01:33If you do the math, 8422 by 5700, you will see that the image contains a total
01:38of 48 million pixels. That's a 48 mega pixel image. That's like 10 times as big
01:46as an image shot by a top of the line digital camera. So scanners can give you
01:52extremely high resolution images, which is a great thing, and by the way
01:57because this is a grayscale image, every pixel takes up one byte of data. You
02:01don't have to know this; this is just an FYI. It takes up one byte of data, so
02:05that would be 48 million bytes.
02:08So why is it 46 megabytes here? Well, because there is 1024 bytes in a kilobyte
02:14and a 1024 kilobytes in a megabyte and so and so on. When the math works itself out,
02:18we drop down to 46 megabytes right there, but still a whopping image.
02:22That's a huge image to be working with. Now let's say that I think all right I
02:26want the image to be eight inches tall, so I will change the Height value to
02:30eight and notice that the Resolution value in our case is staying the same, so
02:35we are still having this 1200 pixel per inch image. Oh my Gosh! It's a huge
02:40resolution. That's the resolution at which I scanned the image because that's
02:42the top optical resolution afforded by this specific scanner, wouldn't
02:47necessarily I will have to print the image to that resolution, it's a little
02:49bit of overkill.
02:50You will typically hear people say that you don't need any more than 300 or 360
02:53pixel per inch when printing images anything more, it's wasted and that tends
02:59to be true when you are printing continuous tone photographic images, but this
03:03is line art, so we have these very harsh contrasts, these rapid contrasts
03:07inside of this image. So higher resolutions tend to work better, something like
03:12in the neighborhood of 300 to 600 pixels per inch might work out very nicely
03:15for you, 1200 is genuinely overkill, but still.
03:19All right so I have gone ahead and changed the Height value to eight inches and
03:22that just drove up the pixel dimensions of my image. Notice that it's now going
03:26to be 14000 pixels wide and we are taking the size of the image in memory from
03:3146 megabytes up to 130 megabyte. So we are upsampling the image once again.
03:35There is no sense in doing that. We don't need to upsample the image. So what
03:39we want to do is we want to turn off Resample Image so that we are not doing
03:43any resampling at all.
03:44So just turn off that checkbox. Now that resets the values, notice that and it
03:49also prevents you from accessing the pixel dimensions anymore, because you
03:53can't change the number of pixels when resample is turned off. Instead you can
03:57just change these Document Size options. So I will go ahead and change the
04:00Height value to eight inches once again and notice that both Width and
04:04Resolution change in kind. So the Width expands to 11.82 just as it did before
04:09because Constraint Proportions is turned on. It's basically locked on when you
04:13are not resampling because you have to have square pixels, so the proportions
04:17have to stay the same and the Resolution value is now going to go up and down,
04:21depending on how many pixels are fitting into the new Document Size, and notice
04:26that all three of these options are locked into agreement with each other.
04:29That's what this little chain icon pointing to all three means.
04:32So change anyone and the other two are going to change as well. So now I am
04:36noting that this is going to be eight inches tall, 11.82 inches wide, so almost
04:4012 inches wide with the Resolution of 712.5 pixels per inch. I might not care
04:46about that. I might say, gosh, all right, let the resolution do what the
04:49resolution is going to do because that way I am not going to change the number
04:53of pixels in the image. That way I am not losing anything. That way I am
04:56leaving it up to Photoshop to figure out how it's going to print. All of these
04:59pixels inside of an inch and then I would just go ahead and click on OK in
05:04order to accept that modification now what do you notice? You notice nothing, right?
05:08Nothing happens inside of the image, it just zipped. It didn't even choose the
05:11Image Size command in the first place. Well, that's because we didn't change
05:15the number of pixels inside the image, but we did change the size at, which the
05:18image is going to print. If I go to the File menu and choose the Print command
05:21again, just to preview things here, then notice how big that image is on the
05:26page. In fact, it's going to get cropped if we send it out to a letter size
05:29page, but I am going to send it out for a commercial output, so I am not going
05:32to have that problem.
05:33So we have in fact changed the image, you can see that the Height is 7.999,
05:39don't worry about that, 11.82 wide and there is our print resolution at 712
05:44pixels per inch. Go ahead and Cancel out of there. So we have now successfully
05:48changed the print resolution. So anytime you want to change resolution without
05:51affecting the number of pixels inside the image without resampling, make sure
05:55to turn that Resampling checkbox off.
05:58In the next exercise, we will turn that Resample checkbox back on and we will
06:02downsample the image and we will learn why in the world you would ever want to
06:06do such a thing.
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Downsampling your artwork
00:00All right gang, in this exercise we are going to downsample this image to a
00:06more reasonable resolution. When we last left off, we had set the resolution to
00:10712 pixels per inch, which is sky high. We don't really need that many pixels
00:16and it's just going to make Photoshop work harder and that's really Photoshop's
00:19business, but we don't want to slow down the process and we want to be able to
00:22work through the image fairly efficiently.
00:24So let's go ahead and downsample. I'm going to go up to the Image menu and
00:28choose the Image Size command. And by downsample, I mean reduce the number of
00:32pixels inside of an image, which is great by the way. Let's say not only if you
00:37wanted to print the image effectively here, but also you want to email the
00:41image to somebody or you want to post the image on a website or something along
00:44those lines.
00:45This image is way too massive for any of that stuff, because it's still 46
00:49megabytes in RAM, so it will probably get down to a much smaller size on disk
00:54because these big areas of white and these big areas of black are going to
00:56compress very nicely. But still you're probably not going to want to email a two
01:00or three megabyte file to somebody because it just won't look right when they
01:03open it up in some other piece of software and they don't know what they are
01:05doing and the details will get all choppy because the pixels are getting
01:08squished and all that stuff.
01:10So let's downsample and here is what I am going to do. I am going to turn on
01:14the Resample Image checkbox right there. In the previous exercise we set it to
01:18a Width of 11.82 inches and a Height of eight inches, turn on Resample Image.
01:23Go ahead and turn on Constraint Proportions, when in doubt turn on Scale
01:26Styles, in our case it doesn't matter because this is a flat image that does
01:29not have any layer files associated with it, but it is good habit to get into
01:33it and just go and turn that on and then let's change the Resolution value.
01:37Now let's say I am going to print this to my inkjet printer and I want it to
01:43look its very best and the top side of the inkjet printing where resolution is
01:47concerned is 360. So I will change the Resolution to 360 pixels per inch. Then
01:52the question becomes, which form of interpolation, do we want to apply. I told
01:56you never Bilinear, so just don't even worry about that one. Nearest Neighbor
01:59is great for increasing the size of the screenshots. You almost never want to
02:03use it for decreasing the size of an image, for downsampling, because it can
02:07lead to very jagged results.
02:08Bicubic is your good when in doubt choice and that is the default choice and
02:13it's a great one to work with and if you had nothing else, but Bicubic inside
02:16of Photoshop that would actually be a really good thing. Bicubic Smoother is
02:19good if you are trying to get rid of noise inside the image as you downsample
02:24it. We are not. We don't have noise inside this image to speak off. Bicubic
02:28Sharper would be good if we want to really sharpen the details as we make the
02:33image smaller, which can be good for web graphics, especially web imagery.
02:37But the thing is it can also create little tiny halos around your artwork and
02:42we want to avoid that. So for this image here, we just want plain old Bicubic
02:46for downsampling. We are downsampling this line art as concerned. So here
02:51are our settings, notice that it's going to drop from 46 megabytes down to 12
02:56megabytes, which is considerably smaller and I will click OK in order to apply
03:00that modification.
03:01Now, we have kind of lost track of the image, so let's go over here and press
03:03the H key in order to get that bird's eye function. Drag this over and there is
03:08our downsampled queen. She still looks really great. Let's compare her to that
03:14upsampled version of that low- resolution artwork that we started off with at
03:19the beginning of this chapter.
03:20So there is the modified version of Picture puzzle-lo.jpg and here is the
03:25downsampled version of Picture puzzle- hi, so again, here is the moral, right?
03:32Starting with a low-resolution image and upsampling gives you crud. Starting
03:37with a high-resolution image and downsampling gives you great results. So
03:41contrary to what you might think, you are better off reducing the number of
03:45pixels inside Photoshop as opposed to adding pixels inside of Photoshop.
03:50Another great thing about downsampling, like what we have done right here, is
03:53it clarifies that remaining detail. So it takes too much information and
03:58distills it into just the right amount of information, which is what we have
04:02here. Now, should you now go to the File menu and choose the Save command?
04:06Absolutely not. Do not do that because you will save over your high resolution original.
04:11Instead go to Save As and call this something different. You can still use the
04:16JPEG file format in this case, but definitely use the highest quality setting,
04:20use a different name, save it in a different location or whatever, just don't
04:23save over the original.
04:25In the next exercise we are going to address that issue. So how do you take a
04:29small image and make it big? Coming right up.
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The mythology of upsampling
00:00All right, it's usually this stage of the training that I get this question,
00:04which is something to the effect of, Okay, yes Deke, I totally get it. It's
00:09better to start with a high resolution image and then downsample it if
00:13necessary than to start with a squalid little low resolution image and
00:17up-sample it and expect to get good results, but what if I don't have a choice?
00:22What if all I have is a squalid little low resolution image and I need to make
00:26it look halfway decent or I am starting with a normal resolution image,
00:30something like a 12 megapixel, 14 megapixel image and I need to blow it up to
00:34fit on the side of a bus. What do I do?
00:36Well, I am going to answer that question in two parts. First of all I am going
00:39to show you what not to do. I am going to try to dispel some of the mythology
00:44that surrounds up-sampling and then in next exercise, I'll show you what I
00:47recommend you actually do and I am going to do that with the help of these two
00:51images. One is called Snow on Branch.jpg, the other is called Test case-1.jpg.
00:56They are both copies of the same image, just with different resolutions.
01:00Snow on branch.jpg is the actual 12- megapixel image that I shot several years
01:05ago, and Test case-1.jpg is that same image downsampled. So it's only a 10th as
01:10wide, and a 10th as tall, so just a 100th of the size over all. So we just have
01:14a dramatic comparison that is waiting for us here. So let's go back to Snow on
01:19Branch.jpg. Right now we are seeing it's at the 20% zoom ratio. I am going to
01:24go ahead and zoom it into a 100% by pressing Ctrl+1 or Command+1 on the Mac and
01:29then I'll do that, press the H key technique, that bird's eye thing. So I'll
01:33press the H key, drag this over and then release in order to see this pine
01:38cone, which is obviously a pine cone and it's surrounded by these pine needles
01:42and there's a little bit of ice on this one needle here.
01:44All right, now let's zoom in on this image to the same level, which means by
01:49the way, zooming into a 1000%. I am just going to enter a 1000% into the Zoom
01:54option down here in the lower left corner of the Image window and then press
01:58the Enter or the Return key on the Mac and I am going to take advantage of that
02:01H key technique. So I am pressing it, holding the H key, dragging this view to
02:04this location and releasing and there's my pinecone.
02:08Now it's hard to tell what's going on with this Pixel Grid in the way. So I am
02:12going to turn the Pixel Grid off, and you do that by pressing Ctrl+H or
02:15Command+H on the Mac. So that same time-tested technique, that keyboard
02:19shortcut that allows you to hide the extras, like selection outlines and so on.
02:23We'll see more of it if you are not familiar with it, but that's Ctrl+H,
02:26Command+H on the Mac and now I'll switch back to this image, so we can compare
02:30them nose to nose here. So this is the good version of the pinecone. We can
02:35tell it to a pinecone for example and here's the low-resolution version. We
02:38can't tell what in the world it is.
02:40So no surprise that it looks like garbage because we have a low-resolution
02:45image in the first place. Well, let's take this image and up-sample it and see
02:49if it looks any better. So I am going to go to the Image menu and I am going to
02:52choose the Duplicate command and I am going to call this duplicate version of
02:57the image Test case-2 and click OK, and there it is and now let's go and
03:02up-sample it by going to the Image menu, choosing the Image Size command, make
03:06sure that resample image is turned on, I might make sure that these other
03:10options are turned on as well. Really all that matters is that Resample Image
03:13is turned on and you want to set to Bicubic. You could try to sharpen it up a
03:17little bit by Bicubic Sharpener, but that's not going to help you and you could
03:22smooth out, gum up the edges a little bit if you are worried about noise, but
03:26that's a least of our concerns with this kind of enlargement, let's just stick with Bicubic.
03:29What I am really telling you is it doesn't matter which one you choose. And
03:33then, this is an interesting technique. You go to the Window menu and you
03:36choose Snow on Branch in order to match its size, so that we are upsampling to
03:41exactly match the size with Snow on Branch. Now what you are going to see here
03:45is the Constrain Proportions checkbox turned off and that's because Photoshop
03:49is inserting values for both width and height and it doesn't even know. It's
03:54not aware of whether they are proportional or not. They are proportional, but
03:57Photoshop doesn't know so it turns that checkbox off. You don't care. Just make
04:01sure Resample Image is turned on, then click OK and don't try to turn it back
04:04on because that will ruin your values.
04:06All right, click OK and that will apply the resampling. Let's press the H key,
04:11in order to find our pinecone there and there it is. All right, so there's the
04:15original, obviously better. There's the high pixel one and there's the smooth
04:21resampled one. I don't know. You can tell me that that's way better than that,
04:26if you want to, and say yup, I am convinced. Up-sampling is a good thing. If
04:30you look at that and you say, yup, Up- sampling is a good thing, then more the
04:34power to you. Up-sample your images. I look at that and I say, that's just
04:38fuzzy. That isn't any better and it's not going to look any better in print
04:41than this is. This is a little more jagged, but otherwise there's no clarity here.
04:46All right, now this is other technique. I am going to zoom out from this image.
04:50Actually, I'll press Ctrl+1 or Command+ 1 to go out all the way. This is very
04:54mythological technique. The technique says that you are going to get better
04:58results if you up-sample in small increments. So in increments of a 110%, so
05:02you just up-sample a little bit, a little bit, a little bit and to demonstrate
05:07how that works, I have gone ahead and created an action.
05:09Here's my Actions palette by the way. You go to the Windows menu and you'll
05:12choose Actions and I'll save this action up for you, it's in the 06_imagesize
05:17folder. So all you need to do is choose Load Actions and you can load it on up.
05:22I have already got it in here, and so I am going to click, so you want to twirl
05:25open the myth and then click on a 110%X10. So they are 10 instances of
05:32up-sampling this image to a 110% and that's how that's supposed to work, it
05:36doesn't, but it's supposed to. So I am going to click on 110%X10 and I am going
05:41to go ahead and play that action and it's going to go ahead and up-sample that
05:47many times, a 110%X10, so it's 10 times in a row.
05:50Now that doesn't happen to match Test case-2, which is up-sampled farther than
05:53that. So let's go ahead and press Ctrl+ Alt+Z or Command+Option+Z on the Mac, in
05:57order to back step and then I'll go to the Image menu, choose the Image Size
06:00command, and I am going to change the size of this image. Turn Resample on,
06:07turn Constrain Proportions on, all checkboxes on in fact and I'll change the
06:11percent to 259% because if you take a 110X10 times, 10 times, run it 10 times
06:17in a row, then you get the same thing as a 259% increase in the image and I'll
06:22click OK.
06:24So here are the two images. Let's just go ahead and zoom in a little bit on
06:27this pinecone, so that we can see it in detail here and these are the two
06:32versions. So this is the one that we ran the operations 10 times on, the one
06:35that's supposed to be so much better, and here's the one that we just did it
06:38once and in truth this Test case-1 guy right here is a little bit smoother, but
06:44once again, smooth isn't our problem. We are going to get softness and
06:49goopyness no matter what we do. What we'd like to get is some nice detail in this image.
06:54So this super softening stuff that we are doing here just isn't serving any
06:57purpose and if you want super softening, then just go ahead and undo that one
07:01operation. Go back to the Image menu, choose the Image Size command. So this is
07:05the one that we just resampled in the single path of the Image Size command.
07:09I'll go ahead and change it to 259% and if you want it to be smoother, then you
07:14change this from Bicubic to Bicubic smoother. And click OK and you are going
07:18to get a smoother result without having to run the operation 10 times in a row.
07:22They are nearly identical to each other. They are slightly different, but they
07:26are not different in any meaningful, helpful way.
07:29So what in the world do you do? Having proved that this really isn't a good
07:33approach, what is the better approach? I will show you two better approaches in
07:38the next exercise.
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Better ways to make an image big
00:00All right, so what do you do if you are trying to print an image bigger, if
00:05you want to take a low resolution image or less than ideal resolution image and
00:10make it a decent size or really truly big? Let's start off with that second
00:16option, where you want to take a normal size image and print it on the side of
00:19a bus, or print it really, really large.
00:21So for example, I have got this Snow on Branch.jpg image, which as you may
00:26recall is the 12 megapixel version of this image. If I go up to the Image menu
00:31and choose the Image Size command, it's going to show me that this image at a
00:35resolution of 300 pixels per inch is going to measure 13 inches wide,
00:3913 and change and 10 inches tall and let's say, I wanted to be 40 inches wide and
00:4530 inches tall. That's going to take this image up to 12,000 pixels wide, at 300
00:51pixels per inch. So we are going to have 309 megabytes. This image is just
00:56going to be enormous and we are not going to worry about the Interpolation
00:59setting because it's not going to help us regardless. So click OK in order to
01:04accept that modification.
01:05Now let's go ahead press the H key, and find our way over here to this pine
01:09cone so that we can look at the detail inside the pine cone. Is it all that
01:13great, did we gain anything? I mean this is a really whopping huge image. This
01:17is going to be a chore to print. It's going to be hard to do anything with it
01:20because we are going to be waiting forever for the commands to complete, and we
01:24really don't have anything to show for it. So if I press Ctrl+Z, or Command+Z
01:27on the Mac, to undo that modification and then press the H key in order to find
01:31that detail and zoom in on it. This is now about the same size as it was
01:35before, now that we are zoomed in to 200%, 300% something in that range and yet
01:40it doesn't look any better or worse, it just looks, all right, we just don't
01:45have enough detail going on and this is a much easier image to work with. It's
01:49just 36 megs instead of being that whopping 309 megs.
01:52So here's what I would do where this image is concerned. If I wanted to print
01:55it that big, I would go up to the Image menu. I would choose Image Size
01:59command. I would turn off Resample image and I would change the width to 40
02:04inches and then I would let it change to 30 inches high, and then I wouldn't
02:08worry about the resolution values. It's going to drop down to a 102 pixels per
02:11inch. If that bothers you then don't look at that value, ignore it and click OK.
02:16The image is going to look the same as it did before, but it's going to output
02:1840 inches wide now and 30 inches tall and the thing is you are not going to be
02:23putting your nose about one inch from this image in order to check out it's
02:26resolution. You are going to have to backup to take in the entire thing and as
02:30a result, the pixels are going to blend together and it's going to look like a
02:33smooth image. I do this all the time. I have a large format Epson printer and
02:38I'll print out these gargantuan prints with it, and we'll mount them onto
02:41walls, sort of high up on the walls. No body gets close enough to them to see
02:45the actual resolution of the images and they look absolutely great, and I have
02:48all sorts of other stories.
02:49I mean this is the way it actually works. When you print an image on the side
02:52of a bus or on a Billboard or that kind of thing, they are not up-sampling;
02:56they are just changing the physical dimensions of the image and letting the
02:59resolution ride. Sometimes very low, sometimes we are talking about 30 pixels
03:03per inch and stuff like that. All right, but what about the other scenario
03:06where you are taking a tiny little image and you want to make it look normal.
03:09All right, so I have got a bunch of test cases now. It is now flooded my screen.
03:13Here's Test case-1, which was that little version of the image, the itty-bitty
03:17version that we up-sample 10 times in a row, at a 110% each time. So it's
03:22ostensibly better than Test case-2. We just saw this in a previous exercise,
03:26it's ostensibly better according to the myth than Test case-2, which we just
03:31up-sampled in one fell of swoop to 259%, and actually I don't think there's any
03:36qualitative difference between these two images at all. The first image is a
03:39little bit sharper, it's got a little bit what's called clarity because there's
03:44a little bit more edge contrast, but we can apply that after the fact using a
03:48number of different techniques if we wanted to, but I don't think it makes a difference.
03:51Here's what makes a difference. I'll go to Test case-3. This is the original
03:54version of the image. I just duplicated it once again. If you are interested in
03:58this thing but you are going to have to buy a different piece of software.
04:00Here's the website. It's a product called Genuine Fractals and it's available
04:04from this group called onOne Software. You can go to ononesoftware.com or you
04:09can just Google Genuine Fractals and you'll find that information about it, but
04:13let me just show it to you. I am not going to show you how to use Genuine
04:15Fractals. I'll just demo it, so you get a sense what it can do.
04:19With this image here I am going to go to the File menu. This is the original
04:22low-resolution image, so I have zoomed to 200%. I am going to go to the File
04:25menu, choose Automate, and then choose the Pro Version of Genuine Fractals and
04:31then I am going to change the pixel dimensions as a percent. I want to make
04:35sure it's set to percent, and I am going to change it to 259% and then press
04:39the Tab key to make sure we are changing both values and kind and then I'll
04:42click on the Apply button and it will go ahead and resize this image to 259%
04:47and now let's go ahead and scroll it over so that we are looking at the image
04:52at about the same location.
04:53So this is the 110%X10 modification. This is scaled to 259% inside Photoshop in
05:01one fell of swoop as I said before and this is Genuine Fractals. Now what I
05:06want you to look for is the smooth contouring that's going on here, especially
05:10around this ice. Notice those very smooth contoured edges, compared with either
05:15these examples. Very gummy in the first case, very gummy in the second case,
05:21just sort of gooey, gummy indistinct edges, compared with Genuine Fractals,
05:25which actually goes in there and tries to rebuild edges where to confine them,
05:30so it's fairly amazing for this kind of stuff.
05:33So again if you do a lot of it because it's fairly expensive software, Genuine
05:36Fractals is worth looking into, just again to give you a sense around the same
05:40task with the puzzle image. So this is a 110%X10 technique. This is the 259%X1
05:49technique. These two are virtually indistinguishable from each other. Again,
05:53there's no qualitative difference and then this is the Genuine Fractals
05:56version, which does produce a qualitative difference. It's a much better
05:59looking image and it's actually going through there and trying to make up
06:03detail, which is pretty amazing. Sometimes it gets it right, sometimes it
06:06doesn't, but always it's delivering these smooth contoured edges.
06:11So there you go. Either if you are going way, way big just go ahead and turn
06:15off resample image and let the resolution do its thing or if you are just
06:19trying to take a little image and make it reasonable then go with Genuine
06:22Fractals. And that my friends, is my discussion of image size inside Photoshop.
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7. Cropping and Straightening
Frame wide, crop tight
00:01Long before computers were widely available, eons before Photoshop hit the
00:06market, it was common practice for the professional photographer to frame a
00:10shot and then back up a step or two to permit room for cropping. By cropping, I
00:15mean taking in the boundaries of a photograph to make for a tighter shot.
00:19In other words, even back in the old days, the photographer shot the image with
00:24editing in mind because doing so ensured a wider range of post photography
00:29options or as we say now, the photographer knew in advance that he or she could
00:34fix the image in post.
00:36Cropping an image means adding or subtracting pixels around the perimeter of
00:40the image, a measurement that Photoshop refers to as Canvas Size. Straightening
00:45a crooked photo requires re-mapping pixels, which involves resampling. So again
00:51it's best to perform these operations after correcting the colors. Pretty
00:55simple topics. What's amazing is how many options Photoshop gives you and the
01:00degree of automation the program provides.
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Using the Crop tool
00:00In this exercise, I am going to provide you with a demonstration of how you use
00:04the Crop tool here inside Photoshop and not only does the Crop tool allow you
00:09to hone in on just that portion of the photo that you want to keep, but it also
00:13allows you to straighten a crooked image like this one here. The name of this
00:16image is Crooked slide.jpg and this is a scan of a 35-millimeter slide that
00:21features both my sister here and I back in the day. So there's a lot of garbage
00:27sort of inside of this slide but it's of course of immense nostalgic value. So
00:32I would like to go ahead and crop in on this image, while keeping, by the way,
00:36while keeping a little bit of this black edge because I like it.
00:39So I am going to go ahead and Shift+ Tab away my palettes so I have a little
00:42more room to work and then I am going to grab my Crop tool and notice that the
00:47Crop tool has a keyboard shortcut as many of the tools do. In this case you
00:50press the C key to get to Crop tool. You don't have to press anything else. You
00:54don't have to press Ctrl or Command or Shift or any of that stuff.
00:58Then just go ahead and drag with the tool like so, in order to encircle or
01:04enrectangle the portion of the image that you want to keep. And if you like as
01:10you are drawing the crop boundary, you can press the Spacebar in order to move
01:14it on the fly and that's a little trick that we'll see over and over again with
01:18some of these basic sort of geometric tools.
01:21Anyway now I have released the Spacebar and I am just scaling the crop boundary
01:24again. As soon as I release, you don't have to get away the first time, because
01:28as soon as you release you still have the option of modifying this crop
01:31boundary. Now I am in what's called the Crop mode, and here's what I can do.
01:36There's a lot of stuff I can't do now, inside of the software, a lot of
01:39features that I can't access, but I can modify the crop boundary by dragging
01:44inside of it to move it.
01:46I can drag anyone of these handles, either the corner handles or one of the
01:50side handles or the top or bottom handles in order to change the size of this
01:55crop boundary or if I move my cursor outside of the crop boundary, you will see
02:00that I have this bidirectional arrow cursor right there, and that allows me to
02:06rotate the boundaries. So just drag outside the boundary to rotate it, like so
02:11and you want to rotate the boundaries so it matches the angle of the image itself.
02:15All right, now if you want to get a sense of what that angle is, you have to
02:20bring up the Info palette and so I go to the Window menu and choose Info and
02:25then I can see right there that I am looking at an angle of -23.1 degrees. I
02:29can't modify that angle, I can't enter a different numerical angle, but I can
02:33see what the angle is just in case I am curious. I can also see the width and
02:37the height of my crop boundary. This is not a particularly high-resolution
02:41image that we are looking at here.
02:42All right, I am going to go ahead and hide the info palette for now, and
02:46continue to drag. Now, it's a little difficult to see what in the world I am
02:49doing at this point because I am covering up my cropped area, which is mostly
02:56black out there, with a Shield. That's what it's called, with a shield of
03:01black. And you can see up here in the Options bar, there's Shield, you can turn
03:04it off if you don't want it, so that you can just see the crop boundary without
03:08anything outside of it, or you can turn it back on and change it's color and in
03:12my case I am going to change the color to white.
03:15So I click on that black swatch, up comes the color picker. I go ahead and drag
03:20inside of this big field until I get to white, which is going to be in the
03:23upper left hand corner, assuming that H is selected here, that the H radio
03:27button is active. Or you can just go ahead and enter a Saturation value of
03:31zero, and a Brightness there of a 100%, those two will conspire to create
03:36white, so well RGB is set to 255, lots of different ways to enter in White here.
03:41I'll go and click OK, and of course it's not essential that I get it exactly
03:45white. This is just for screen display purposes here. Then I am going to change
03:50my Opacity from 75% to a 100%, so I am absolutely covering up the stuff in the
03:53background. In that way I can get a really good sense of what this image is
03:58going to look like when it's printed on white paper. So I can see that I need
04:02to still rotate it a little bit, I am going to drag this down. Actually I
04:05didn't rotate it, did I? I just went ahead and scaled it a little bit. I don't want that.
04:09So I'll drag outside in order to rotate. I am going to try and see if I can get
04:15this at the right angle and I just want this to screw at the top. It looks like
04:17it needs to be rotated just a little bit more, it's hard to finesse this tool
04:22sometimes, and drag this guy in along the edge there, move this out a little
04:27bit. I just want it to be equidistant from all these edges and I don't know if
04:32you can tell I am -- if you can tell by the sense of my voice, I have got my
04:35head tilted as I am looking at the monitor to try to make sure that I am doing this right.
04:40I'll show you a better way to work in the future exercise, a way to preview the
04:45angle of your image so that you don't have to do this twist your head thing,
04:50but for now we are just getting a sense of how the tools works. This is looking
04:53pretty good to me and so I have gone with, it doesn't it look good, let's see,
04:59this is a struggle obviously. Let's go to here. Let's see if this works out
05:03just a little better. I want to make sure we are getting it exactly right. No
05:07it's pretty good I guess.
05:08All right I'll drag this up and now let's go ahead and bring up the Info
05:12palette again, so I can see I have got an angle of about -24.1 degrees. All
05:17right, fair enough, and I go ahead and move that a little more and I think
05:21that's good. All right, so I can of course zoom out if I want to, or zoom in
05:26using Ctrl+Minus or Ctrl+Plus that would Command+Minus Command+Plus on Mac, so
05:31you can do all that stuff.
05:32Now at this point once you have decided you have gotten this where it wants to
05:36be, that you have it cropped properly, and of course I haven't decided that
05:41because here I am modifying it some more, but once you are done, good lord,
05:44finish up there. Once you are done then go ahead and click on this check mark
05:48if you want to. That's one way or you just press the Enter key or the Return
05:52key on the Mac in order to apply your crop and that looks good to me. So that's
05:57the basics of using the Crop tool here inside of Photoshop.
06:01In the next exercise, I am going to show you how to work with Crop tool presets.
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Crop tool presets
00:00In this exercise I am going to show you how to work with Crop tool presets,
00:03which are predefined combinations of width and height and resolution values
00:07that you can assign to an image as you crop it and presets are available to a
00:11lot of different tools inside of Photoshop. So this is just one of many
00:15examples of how you can select and save your own presets. I am working inside
00:20of this image called Jedi cub.jpg. It's called Jedi cub because my son Sammy
00:25here is a Cub Scout and an authentic Jedi knight as well, as you can see by the
00:29fact he's wielding that $15 toy that we bought at a restaurant.
00:34So I am going to go ahead and grab my Crop tool because I do want to crop down
00:38on just of the area around his face here. I don't want to see all this extra
00:42stuff. This plastic right here gives away that it's not really a light saber
00:47and the top of the light saber is running out of juice. So... you can't laugh at this thing. I am going to go
00:54grab my Crop tool and notice when I have the Crop tool selected, I can go up to
00:59this little down pointing arrowhead at the outside of the Options bar and I can
01:02click on it, and then I can choose from several different presets.
01:06For example, let's say that I want to go ahead and crop this image to a
01:094x6x300ppi. So I'll go ahead and select that one and after that all you need to
01:16do is go ahead and drag with the tool like so in order to draw the crop
01:21boundary. Now, notice that it's constrained, so I can't make it any wider than
01:25it is right now. If I wanted to include a little more width for example inside
01:29of this image, I wouldn't be able to do that because I can't violate the
01:33constrains that I have applied of 4X6, I have to go ahead and stick with those
01:37values there and then I could drag this to a different location and so on.
01:42If I don't like that, I can't change it after the fact. Notice I am now in this
01:46Crop mode, which precludes me from changing the proportions. I would have to
01:50click on this little Ghost Busters icon there, or I would have to press the
01:54Escape key to abandon the Crop operation and to modify my values right here. So
02:00notice one of the things I can do is swap the Width and Height values, like so,
02:04just by click on this icon, so I am making an image set 6 inches wide, and 4
02:08inches tall which is also not what I want. So I'll go ahead and escape out of
02:12there. Go ahead and click on that again in order to swap them back.
02:15Let's say I want 5X6 inches, and I also happen to know that I am working with a
02:21printer, this little die sublimation printer that I have that has a very
02:25specific resolution of 316 pixels per inch, and I want to exactly match that
02:29resolution. So I am not doing any resampling during the printing process. So
02:33I'll go ahead and enter that value like so. Then press the Enter or Return key,
02:37in order to accept it and now I'll draw a new crop boundary and see this one
02:42ends up looking and this one looks pretty darn good to me, and if I want to I
02:47can change my shield color and all that jazz right here.
02:50I think just because image is so dark, it might be lighter shield color. So
02:54I'll go again and switch that back to white once again, and I'll leave the
02:58Opacity at 75%, so I can see it through to the background, and then I press the
03:01Enter key or the Return key on the Mac in order to accept that modification and
03:06then you can see that it went from larger, this is Undo, I just press Ctrl+Z or
03:11Command+Z on the Mac to smaller if I press Ctrl+Z or Command+Z again, so I know
03:15that I have down sampled the image which is a good thing, right? We want to
03:19avoid up sampling the image if we can.
03:21All right, and that looks pretty darn great and then of course I could go up to
03:25the Image menu, if I wanted to confirm that the image is so sized and I think
03:28it is. I can go up to Image menu, choose the Image Size command or press
03:32Ctrl+Alt+I, Command+Option+I on the Mac, and I can see that yes indeed, the
03:36Width of the image is 5 inches, the Height is 6 inches and the resolution is
03:39316 pixels per inch. Awesome, and that is how you go about employing a preset
03:45along with the Crop tool. But now that we have created this preset, I would
03:48like to go ahead and save it.
03:49And I am going to do that by going to the Window menu and choosing the Tool
03:53Presets command in order to bring up the Tool Presets palette right here. And
03:57notice that I also have this little icon I could have clicked on. I will go
04:01ahead and click on this New icon, this little page icon which allows me to
04:05create a new item, in this case a new tool preset. And notice that it's smart
04:10enough to go ahead and call this Crop tool. I don't know what it has to insert
04:13tool when none of these guys have it. So, crop 5 inches by 6 inches. That's good.
04:18And just to make sure that everything correlates to the other presets, I'll go
04:23ahead and use the same language that they are using down here and then I'll say
04:27316ppi, and I'll click OK and there is my new preset in alphabetic order as
04:34well, which is nice. Then I'll go ahead and hide that palette and it's going to
04:38show up here as well.
04:39So if I click this down-pointing arrowhead, notice there it is and so I have
04:43not only used the preset, I have gone ahead and modified the preset and saved
04:47it out for future use as well here inside Photoshop.
Collapse this transcript
Previewing the crop angle
00:00All right now let's say on further reflection, I decided I don't really like
00:03this cropped version of the image and I don't care whether it's constrained
00:08to 5 inches wide by 6 inches tall with a resolution of 316 pixels per inch.
00:12I just want to clear all that stuff out. Well, a few things we can do. One, you
00:16can press Ctrl+Z, or Command+Z on the Mac in order to undo the crop that I
00:21applied to this Jedi Cub.jpg image. So I have now restored the original version
00:26of the image, as it appears inside the 07_Crop straighten folder.
00:31Notice however that I still have my preset, so I didn't undo the addition of
00:36the preset there, just the application of the preset to the image. Then notice
00:41we have got a couple of different buttons here. One is front image and what
00:44that does is if you have a lot of images that you are trying to crop to the
00:48exact same specifications and you have one image that's serving as an example,
00:53then you would have that example image open and click Front Image in order to
00:56load it's settings into the Options bar and then crop the other images accordingly.
01:01You also have this Clear button that allows you to clear out the settings or
01:05another way to work, you can also clear the settings and restore the factory
01:09default settings for any given tool by going over to the tool icon on the far
01:13left side of the Options bar, right- clicking on it or if you don't have a right
01:17mouse button on the Mac, you would press the Ctrl key and click, and then
01:20choose the Reset tool command. You can reset all the tools as well if you want
01:24to by choosing Reset All Tools and that will not only reset the Crop tool in
01:28our case, but all the other tools here inside of the tool box. Then I'll click
01:31OK, sure I want to go ahead and do that. So Photoshop thankfully warns you in
01:36advance for that one because it's a pretty big operation.
01:39All right, now let's say, I notice not only do I want to crop Sammy of course
01:44but I also want to rotate him a little bit. He's at a little bit of an angle,
01:47but it's hard to judge what that angle is. Do I want to rotate them for