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Now I want to show you how to do acrylic cutting whereas opposed to glass cutting. When you order your acrylic they will offer it to you two different ways. It's the same product, but they will ask you if you wanted with paper or film. And I typically ask for paper for a couple of reasons. It seems to be a better adhered, which provides greater protection than the film does. The film tends to peel up at the edge, so if I have usable scrap, it's not as well protected in the studio. So we're going to score acrylic based on paper packaging.
The first thing you need to do is remove the paper from the packaging, you want to score an unprotected surface. Now the tool we're going to use for the scoring is this little cutter right here. You can see it has a hook shaped blade and what that does is that little hook, we will actually put that on the surface of the acrylic and draw it towards yourself, and that hook will allow it score pretty deeply with each pass. Unlike glass, acrylic you typically score two, maybe use as many as four times, making a deeper score for a cleaner break.
It's not about the molecular vibration like glass is. So I'm going to quickly remove the paper covering here, and you just reach up, find the corner that's loose--and like the glass, I'm going to glove up just to protect myself. The edges of this acrylic are very sharp, and like glass you can give yourself a pretty serious cut with them. So I'm going to glove up and remove the paper, and just pull it towards myself.
One thing too, you want to keep in mind, see how I am kind of rolling this up on top of itself. The surface of this is sticky, it does have adhesive on it, and while it leaves the Plexiglass clean when we remove it, you have got to remember it's a sticky surface, and you don't want to allow that to be anywhere near any of the artwork in your studio. So by rolling like this, I have kind of protected that stickiness and then I'm just going to dispose of it immediately. So now we have exposed one side of the acrylic here. And like I did when cutting the glass, I can use the production stop.
But I need to allow a slight offset for the thickness of the blade. Now this blade doesn't have near the offset that the glass cutter does. It's just about a ooch. So to cut it down on my 12-inch dimension, I'm going to set my production stop at 12 and a ooch. A notch is about 1/32 of an inch. Then I'm going to line it up and make sure it's square. And then I'm going to position the cutter so that that hook digs into the acrylic. And I'm going to apply a reasonable amount of pressure.
And you can see little ribbons of acrylic coming off as I make the score. Let me go ahead and give it one more. And then I'm going to inspect it just take a quick look to see if it looks like it's deep enough, and it's clean and straight, and that all looks good. So then I'm going to move that film covered piece out of the way and just slide this over here to the edge of the table. Apply a little pressure. You can see I get a real clean break.
And I'm going to take my X-Acto knife and just cut down through the backing paper. And here we have our piece of plex. Notice it's a nice clean cut. We still have the backing paper on one side to protect that, and we will leave that on there until we are ready to put it in the frame. You need to remember that this, unlike glass, this surface will scratch, so you need to take care with this. And what we're going to do now, in the next movie, we're going to make the second cut in our Plexiglass using a table saw.
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