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Matting and framing is relatively simple, and doing it yourself costs less and is more rewarding than using a framing service. In this course, photographer and professional framer Konrad Eek describes the tools, techniques, and creative decisions involved in matting, framing, and hanging photographs.
The course begins with an overview of framing concepts, terms, and tools and then shows how to choose and work with the various components of a framed print: matboard, frame, glazing, wire hangers, and more. The course also examines the issues and creative options behind hanging an exhibit, whether in a gallery or in a home.
So on the demonstrations we done so far, we either had an Easel back frame which needed no hanging and hardware, or I have shown you how to use wired hardware on both metal frame and the wood frame. What I'd like to show you now are a couple of alternative methods for hanging the work. These generally are good for high-traffic areas where the work might be bumped or extremely heavy pieces, and in the case of the security hardware, they can help with theft deterrent as well. For a double D ring mounting method which is used a lot in museums because it's so stable, first thing I'll do is take these D rings, you can see they're similar to the ones we used in our previous movie, but they have two holes rather than one.
This makes a little bit stronger, and you can get these in heavier duty depending on the scale of the work you're hanging. I'm going to measure down from the top of the piece exactly 3 inches, and I'm going to make a crosswise pencil mark, and I'm going to do it on the other side as well. Once again, that's coming down 3 inches and a crosswise pencil mark. Then I'm going to measure across, and I'm going to burn an inch just to make it easier for me to hold this in place, and I'm going to try to come up with a nice whole number.
In this case, 14 inches looks like it. So I'm going to make a vertical mark there. So what I'll do then once I have established, these are going to be 3 inches down and 14 inches on center, I'll actually write on the paper on the back. 14 inch with an arrow that's horizontal and 3 with an arrow that's vertical. That way if someone's in the know they will look at this and will go, okay, I need to come down 3 inches from the top of where I want the frame and hang it on 14-inch centers.
So then I'll take the D ring, and I'll carefully align it where that crosshatch is coming right in the point of the D ring. That's where we will rest on the screw or the hook. So once again the crosshatch is aligned precisely in the point of the D ring, and then I'll take wood screws and carefully line it up and drive the screws home. Once again, it's a fairly softwood frame, so I don't need to do any pre-drilling.
I'm just going to double check alignment, put both the screws in. Then to mount this at this point what I'd do is I'd measure the height on the wall that I want the top of the print to be, I'd measure it down from that 3 inches, and I'd make a mark where I wanted the print to be centered, and then I'd use my laser level and shine it across that line and 7 inches on each side of that center mark I'd make my cross-hatch, and then I'd put screws on anchors and each one of those points, and then I just bring this up to those two screws who are coming out of the wall, and the D rings hang directly on the screws.
It's a very stable mounting system where you'll get very little movement of the art. So once again, that's double D rings. Another method that you can use is using security hardware. The security hardware is really pretty simple. It consists of two brackets that have a little L-shape hook at the top and then a flat section with a rectangular opening that allows you to adjust them upwards or downwards for perfect positioning. They're held on the wall by putting a screw through this slot into a screw anchor that's set in drywall.
If you happen to work on a wood surface, you don't need to use the anchors. The way these work is you take these two brackets and mount them side by side on the wall and then the top of this metal frame actually interlocks with them. So the weight of the frame will be hanging on these. You're looking at the wall-side view here. Then once those are in position, you have another hole that's directly on center of the channel where you in split the corner brackets when you assemble the frame, and this T-shaped screw was at the top as T-shape that's got a little flat area here.
You screw this into yet another screw anchor, and when you bring the work down so you put on the brackets on the top. As you fold the work flat on the wall, you have this T set up parallel to the base of the frame. So when that groove used to set the corner braces hits that, this T will slide inside it and then you use this tool to reach around and grab the flat side, and you turn it 90 degrees, and when you make that 90 degree turn it locks the bottom of the frame in place so it can't be moved.
So this is a very secure way to mount work on the wall. If somebody was determined they could still rip it out of the wall, but they have to take out the screw anchors. So it's a pretty theft deterrent, but it also prevents the art from moving around if it just happens to get bumped. So here are two nice secure ways to mount your work on the wall.
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