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Join photographer and teacher Ben Long as he describes the tools, creative options, and special considerations involved in shooting with a DSLR camera at night or in low-light conditions, such as sunset or candlelight. The course addresses exposure decisions such as choice of aperture and shutter speed and how they impact depth of field and the camera’s ability to freeze motion.
Ben also shows how to obtain accurate color balance in tungsten and fluorescent lighting situations, and how to postprocess the images in Photoshop to remove noise caused by higher ISO settings. He also demonstrates accessories that can greatly expand your low-light photography options.
Color can be tricky in low light. Your eyes, of course, lose the ability to perceive color as light levels drop. Given a long enough exposure, your camera can pick out color details that are invisible to your eye, but getting accurate color in low light requires some work. Most of the time, you'll find that your low-light images shift to having a very warm orange or reddish cast. This is because the camera is not accurately white balancing for the available light. White balance is the process of calibrating your camera for the type of light that you're shooting in, so that colors appear accurate.
In low light, it's very difficult for your camera's auto white balance mechanism to get an accurate white balance. If correct color is important to your shot, then you'll need to take some additional white balance action. You'll need to either manually white balance or you'll need to shoot RAW so that you can alter the white balance later. If you choose to shoot RAW, I recommend using a white balance card so that you can have a good record of an actual gray tone, which you can use later for your white-balance adjustment. We'll be looking at how to use all of these techniques at various times throughout this course.
So if you've been frustrated that your low-light images always look red or orange, don't worry; we're going to fix that.
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