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The Elements of Effective Photographs

The Elements of Effective Photographs

with Natalie Fobes

 


In this course, Pulitzer-nominated photographer Natalie Fobes takes viewers into the studio and on location to explore the many elements that combine to make an effective photo.

The course explores compositional elements that guide a viewer's eye, including the rule of thirds; leading lines, patterns, and curves; and depth of field. Natalie then details the roles of color and light in a photo. She shows how to work with the natural light in a room or outdoor location, and how to enhance it using reflectors, newspapers, a T-shirt, or whatever might be handy. She also shows some simple indoor lighting setups that can replicate the look of natural light.

The course continues with a look at movement and how a photographer can convey a sense of motion by blurring part of the image or freezing a fast-moving subject. Next, Natalie explores the concepts of peak action and the decisive moment—those split seconds that capture the essence or emotion of a subject or scene. The course wraps up with a discussion of the roles of planning and research in creating effective photos.

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author
Natalie Fobes
subject
Photography, Photography Foundations
level
Beginner
duration
1h 36m
released
Aug 30, 2011

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Introduction
Welcome
00:04Hi! I am Natalie Fobes, and welcome to the Elements of Effective Photographs.
00:10You have probably shot some photographs that really stand out and others that
00:14just didn't quite work.
00:16You may have wondered, why?
00:18In this course, we will explore the essentials of composition, including the
00:23rule of thirds, leading lines, depth of field, and the use of foreground, middle
00:29ground, and background.
00:30We will kick off our study of color by reviewing the color temperature of
00:35different light sources and then learn how to adjust white balance in the camera.
00:40There's no better way to learn about lighting than in the studio with a model,
00:45and we will do just that, using both one- and two-light setups.
00:49We will study motion and peak action and show how to freeze, blur, and pan to add impact.
00:57We will explore the decisive moment and discuss how to recognize these images
01:03that sum up the action or event.
01:05We will also get our RAW images off the camera to create and correct
01:10color, light, and motion.
01:13So get your camera ready and let's get started exploring the elements of
01:18effective photographs.
Collapse this transcript
What makes an effective photograph?
00:00What makes an effective photograph?
00:03For me, a successful photograph is one where you achieve your intent in a
00:07thoughtful skilled way.
00:09These photographs combine intelligent light and motion, skilled composition and
00:14color, and ideally a message that educates or moves the viewer.
00:20Not all photographs live up to this standard and yet they can be effective too--
00:23and I am talking about photos I call happy snaps.
00:27By that, I mean the quick photographs we take of family and friends and events
00:33that we want to remember.
00:35In fact, these photographs are downright priceless, but when you show them to
00:41other people, that's a different story.
00:44When was the last time you really enjoyed looking at someone else's
00:48vacation snapshots?
00:50It comes down to the decisions you make before, during, and after the shoot.
00:55Our cameras give us lots of technical choices:
00:59what exposure, what ISO, what shooting mode, and what lens? And then there are
01:05the creative choices. Where is the best vantage point?
01:09How will you compose that shot or pose your subject?
01:13Will you try to capture peak action or the decisive moment?
01:17How much depth of field do you want?
01:19Will you try to add special effects in post? And if so, what?
01:26As a photographer trying to create photographs that really work, your job is to answer them.
01:33Let me show you what I mean with one of my recent assignments.
01:37Riley is a very talented young musician who needed professional portraits for promotion.
01:43He plays in symphony halls as well as jazz clubs, so the photographs had to work for both.
01:49He needed two kinds of photos:
01:51a standard headshot and ones more like a CD cover.
01:55The message we wanted the photographs to send was that Riley is sophisticated,
02:00cool, incredibly talented, and artistic.
02:04I did the headshot series first, because most people are more comfortable
02:08posing for these and I wanted to get it out of the way before we went to the
02:13more creative stuff.
02:15I shot it in my garage with a concrete wall as a backdrop.
02:19I opened my garage door to create a soft sidelight that wrapped around his features.
02:25I set the camera in the manual mode, so I could have maximum control.
02:30My focal length was 105 and the aperture was f/4.
02:34This combination of telephoto lens and wide aperture threw the
02:39background out of focus.
02:42I asked Riley to dip one shoulder forward to create that nice diagonal
02:46line through the composition.
02:48Then we worked with his expressions and his head positions.
02:52This last shot is the winner.
02:54It is the moment when it all came together.
02:58His eyes, expression, the turn of his head, the lighting, the composition, and
03:05the selective focus make it the most effective photograph of this series.
03:11The portrait works well in color, in black and white, in sepia, or in selenium tone.
03:19Next, I wanted to create a feeling of him being on stage. Still in the
03:23garage, but now with the door closed, I set up a single strobe to replicate a stage spotlight.
03:32I wanted the light to give hard shadows, and I wanted those shadows to be on the wall.
03:38I wasn't sure at the beginning what pose I would like the most,
03:41so I took lots of photographs with a lot of variations.
03:46These photographs are my notes.
03:48They are like the notes for a reporter.
03:51I keep working the situation by photographing until I can clearly see the best photo.
03:58Many of these work well, but this one is the one that I think is the most effective.
04:04The message of the light is late night and jazzy. The greater depth of field
04:09shows the detail in the concrete.
04:12Even though all of the horn isn't visible, there is enough that you know he is a trumpet player.
04:17His expression is thoughtful. He raised his arm and it made it look like he was thinking.
04:23And by tilting the camera, the composition comes together.
04:28This last shot was taken outside on a cloudy day.
04:33I wanted to emphasize Riley's face while still including the horn.
04:38I used 180 at 2.8 to give me a very shallow depth of field.
04:44The focus is on Riley's eyes and the horn and vegetation is out.
04:49I pushed Riley way over to the side of the frame.
04:53Now, to keep this from being awkward, I positioned the horn on an angle so that
04:57the line brings your eye right back to Riley.
05:01It holds the composition together. And check out how beautiful the texture of the background is.
05:08This is called bokeh, and we'll get into that later in the course.
05:13The photograph works fine in color, but in this case, it's much more
05:17effective in black and white.
05:19The background isn't distracting, so your eye goes right back to Riley's.
05:24Riley and I were both very happy with the photographs.
05:30So what sets these photos apart from happy snaps?
05:34Planning and forethought--
05:36before I press the shutter I thought about each photo and the message I
05:40wanted it to convey.
05:42After that, I chose the lens and the aperture that would give me the right depth of field.
05:47I created my lighting, and played with the composition and pose to make sure I
05:52achieved the message.
05:54So yes, you are right;
05:56that's a lot to think about! But with practice and experience, this kind of
06:01thought becomes second nature.
Collapse this transcript
1. The Essentials of Composition
The rule of thirds
00:00Great photography moves, intrigues, informs, and sometimes challenges the viewer.
00:06We as artists have a message we want to communicate.
00:10It may be as simple as the emotional grandeur of the Grand Canyon or as
00:14complicated as the impact of culture on the environment.
00:17But no matter what kind of photography you enjoy, there are elements of design
00:22that are common to all:
00:24composition, movement, texture, depth of field, light, and color, all weave
00:30through the tapestry of a fine photograph.
00:33How you use these in your photographs is your eye.
00:36So let's start with composition.
00:39Composition is simply the art of interpreting a three-dimensional scene and
00:43creating a two-dimensional design, and there are many rules that can help take
00:48your photography from snapshots to the next level.
00:51The granddaddy of them all is the Rule of Thirds.
00:55This is the first rule taught in art classes.
00:58In fact, I learned it way back in Mr.
01:00John Schlechter's eighth grade art class in Ottumwa, Iowa.
01:04Divide the frame into thirds, both vertically and horizontally.
01:08Check out where the lines intersect.
01:11One of these interactions is a great place to put something of interest.
01:14Let me show you what I mean.
01:17I took lots of photographs of this harbor in Vietnam.
01:20They are all pretty but not nearly as interesting as this one of the boy pulling anchor.
01:25Now let's put the grid over that photo and see how I positioned him where
01:30the lines intersected?
01:32Here's another one taken in Vietnam about an hour later.
01:35The fisherman is placed on the intersection, and the boat and the horizon are
01:40right on the horizontal lines.
01:43After all these years, I didn't even think about composing when I was
01:47shooting this photograph.
01:49Until I put the grid on this shot, I didn't even realize how well I had
01:54captured the rule of thirds.
01:55A few years ago, I spent some time photographing a family at their subsistence
02:01fishing camp on the Yukon River in Alaska.
02:03I took this shot as their boy ran down to the river.
02:07You can see how the rule of thirds works in this photograph.
02:10But you know what? There are times I like to break the rule of thirds, and this
02:15photograph allows for a number of different crops.
02:18This would be a good one for a two-page spread in the magazine, and this one
02:23would be great for a magazine cover because there is room at the top for the
02:27masthead and room on the side for the story teasers. And this extreme crop pulls
02:34your eye right to the child while still giving information about the place.
02:38These crops are very popular with my portrait clients.
02:42So learn how and when to compose using the rule of thirds, but don't be afraid
02:47of being a rule breaker too.
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Creating movement and interest
00:00Close relatives of the rule of thirds include leading lines, mirroring,
00:05and repeating shapes.
00:07All are designed for one thing, and that is to guide the viewer's eyes through the frame.
00:13Remember that as artists, we choose what is included in the photograph and we
00:17want our viewer to see all of it.
00:19So how is this for a leading line?
00:22Route 50 in Nevada is known as the loneliest road in America.
00:27This line really helps get across that feeling of the great expanse of this area.
00:33Diagonal lines add a dynamic element to the photographs.
00:37Your eye probably landed on the snorkeler and then went back on this nice
00:44diagonal line of the creek to the forest behind.
00:48This really helps you get to the information in that photograph about the
00:52habitat of the salmon, and I use that diagonal line to help you move around the photograph.
00:58Now, you can use diagonal lines in portraits too--
01:01I do it all the time; by simply tilting my camera and the model's head I created
01:08a beautiful diagonal with her eyes and her hand.
01:12Another tool of composition is the S curve.
01:14My eye normally lands here at the top, and then I go down through the frame, and
01:21exit out the bottom.
01:23But some of my friends tell me that they actually enter here and go this way.
01:27Either way, it's okay because you see everything I want you to see in the frame.
01:33Now, this time the light formed the S curve, and it lets your eye really enjoy
01:40the texture of the forest in Canada.
01:43I love those partly cloudy days, just love them.
01:47Mirroring is another great technique that you can use in your composition.
01:52This is a bird that was taking a drink in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta in Alaska,
01:57and I love how the form of the bird is actually repeated in a reflection in the water.
02:03So remember, you want to help people see everything in the frame and you do
02:08that by guiding them through the image with the rule of thirds, guiding lines,
02:13and repetitive shapes.
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Foreground, background, and in-between
00:01A common mistake photographers make is creating a flat photo, and what I mean
00:06by this is that the image doesn't explore the relationship between the
00:09foreground and the background.
00:11It doesn't have the depth.
00:13So let's analyze this photograph of a kayaker that I did in Alaska.
00:17The kayak is on a diagonal--
00:19remember, diagonals are our friends-- and there are repetitive shapes in the
00:24mountains, and there is mirroring of the sky and the mountains in the water.
00:29So a lot of compositional elements are already in play here.
00:33Now, the foreground subject feels really close to the camera.
00:37When looking at the kayak, you can almost have a feeling that you can reach out and touch it.
00:43This perspective is created by using a 20-millimeter lens.
00:48Wide angles often make you feel like you're part of the scene.
00:51This feeling is really enhanced if you are able to use a great depth of field to
00:56make everything in focus from the foreground to the horizon.
01:01It's funny, because this is really how our brains interpret what we see in this world.
01:05Now, here's another example of using wide-angle lenses and a diagonal line to
01:12create a relationship between the foreground and background.
01:15You can almost feel the wind that is making the tundra grass move on the
01:20Yukon Kuskokwim Delta.
01:22Here's an early morning shot that I did in Russia at a reindeer herders camp. Yeah, it was cold.
01:29It was really cold.
01:30So your eye probably landed on the sun, and traveled to the left through the
01:35repetitive shapes of the Yaranga.
01:37The wide angle really adds to the sense of place in this photograph.
01:43Now, when creating a foreground-and- background relationship in a composition
01:47don't forget about the rule of thirds.
01:50This plant is exactly where you would expect it to be if you were following the
01:54rule of thirds, and what's more is the diagonals of its leaves lead the eye back
02:01into the mountains and throughout the frame.
02:03Now, not only can you use this technique with landscapes, but you can use it too with people.
02:11You almost feel like you are riding off into the hills with the ranchers as they
02:16check on their cattle.
02:18Don't think that you have to shoot only wide angles to get this relationship.
02:22You can also use telephotos too, like this shot that I took in Prince William
02:27Sound with a 200-millimeter lens, and a great depth of field.
02:32And speaking of depth of field, we will cover that next.
Collapse this transcript
Depth of field as a composing tool
00:00You hear photographers talk all the time about depth of field.
00:05What they're talking about is simply how much of the photograph is in focus in
00:09front of, and behind their subject.
00:11This is called the zone of acceptable focus.
00:15Because of the physics of lenses, this zone extends forward a short distance
00:20from your point of focus and twice that distance behind.
00:24But in reality, it's not just a point of focus, but rather a plane of focus that
00:30is parallel with your camera's sensor.
00:32If you're in focus in one point on this plane, you will be in focus
00:36throughout the entire plane.
00:38Depth of field is controlled by the aperture, lens, and the distance to the subject.
00:44When just a little bit is sharp, it's called a shallow depth of field,
00:49or selective Focus.
00:51When everything is sharp, it's called a great depth of field.
00:56Whether you have a shallow or great depth of field will depend on what you're
01:00shooting and the message of your photograph.
01:03When I'm shooting landscapes I normally choose to have a great depth of field.
01:07I want everything to be sharp from the foreground to the middle ground to the background.
01:14This allows the viewer to enjoy the fine details in the landscape as well as
01:19seeing the broader composition of the scene.
01:22In this photograph I set my aperture to f/16.
01:27I didn't focus at infinity.
01:29I focused in the foreground.
01:31Remember that the zone of acceptable focus will extend forward and twice as far
01:37back from the point of focus.
01:40I used a wide-angle lens.
01:42Wide angles increase the appearance of sharpness in photographs.
01:46But when I shoot portraits, a wide angle and great depth of field sometimes
01:50gives me too much information, and that distracts from the point of the
01:55photograph: the person.
01:57Instead, I want to emphasize the person and isolate him or her from the background.
02:03I do this by using a telephoto lens with a wide aperture, like 2.8 or 4, and I'll
02:10move in as close as the lens will focus,
02:13like in this shot of my daughter.
02:15My focal length was 160, my aperture f/4.
02:19You can see that her eye and part of the tattoo is tack sharp, but then the
02:25focus falls off so that by the time you get to her shoulder, it's just a nice
02:29line in the composition.
02:32I did this shot for a magazine assignment about Apollo butterflies.
02:35I used a macro lens at f/8, but I am so close to the butterfly that my depth of
02:41field is about a 16th of an inch.
02:43I made sure the head of the butterfly was sharp by checking it with the Depth
02:48of Field Preview button that most SLRs have.
02:52This, by the way, is a handy tool when you're working with shallow depth of field.
02:58In this one I needed to show the tiny transmitter antenna that scientists put on
03:04the butterfly so they could track it in the wild.
03:07I wanted everything in focus and it is. How come?
03:12The aperture is the same as the meadow shot. The distance is pretty close, too.
03:17The only difference is the camera sensor and the butterfly are now parallel.
03:23Depth of field is all about controlling what the viewer sees in your photographs.
03:28It's the third dimension in composition, not up or down, left or right, but
03:33rather near and far.
03:37In the next movie we will demonstrate how depth of field can change the feeling
03:41of a photo and answer the age old question: what the heck is bokeh?
Collapse this transcript
Depth of field and bokeh
00:01As I have mentioned before, depth of field is the third dimension of composition.
00:05With it you guide your viewer to what you think is important.
00:09How you use it also affects the message in your photograph.
00:13To demonstrate, I've set up a simple still life in the studio.
00:16I have connected my camera to the monitor, so that you can see in real time what
00:22my camera is seeing.
00:24Remember that focal length, aperture, and distance to the subject
00:28determines depth of field.
00:31For the demonstration, I'll be using a 100 macro lens and varying the aperture
00:35and distance to the subject.
00:37I'll be taking several photos.
00:40Now you'll see we have a rather unique background here that will come into play
00:45later in this movie when we talk about bokeh.
00:48For our first shot, I want a great depth of field, so I will be shooting an
00:52f/22 from 10 feet away.
00:59Everything is sharp in the frame, including the flowers and the background.
01:04Now my aperture is 2.8, and I will take another shot.
01:10You can see the background is a little softer this time, but still you can
01:14make out the shapes.
01:16Here they are, side by side.
01:18There is definitely a visible difference, but nothing too significant.
01:24Now I've repositioned the camera, so I can show you how distance affects depth of field.
01:29I am a foot away from the calla lilies.
01:31I will shoot this at f/22.
01:37The flower is in focus, and the green fern is pretty sharp.
01:42This time I've changed my aperture to 2.8.
01:49This composition sings. All of the soft creamy lines bring you right back to
01:54the one thing that is in focus. Even the fern has been reduced to a soft line of green.
02:01Now let's compare all four of them.
02:03The aperture made less difference in the first set of pictures where the
02:06distance between the flowers and camera was 10 feet.
02:10In the second series we are much closer, only a foot away.
02:15Because of this you can really see the difference when I changed my
02:18aperture from 22 to 2.8.
02:21Now keep in mind, I was using a prime lens for this demo.
02:24Had I been using a zoom lens, I could have remained in the original position,
02:29zoomed in, and achieved a shallower depth of field as well.
02:34So remember, it's not just your aperture that affects your depth of field;
02:38your focal length and distance from the subject also play a role. And now, the
02:44moment you have been waiting for, bokeh.
02:47Bokeh is simply the quality of blur in your photos.
02:50Out-of-focus shapes and lines can actually help or hurt the photo.
02:55Bokeh is affected by the mechanics of your lens, the lighting, the aperture, and
03:00the background and foreground shapes.
03:03Let's check it out.
03:09Even at 2.8 I can't get rid of this distracting background.
03:13Rigid patterns like this play havoc with your bokeh.
03:16This really doesn't work for me.
03:18Now we will use this other background and see what we get.
03:26Broader shapes create pleasing bokeh that add complexity to the image.
03:31Look at the two, side by side.
03:33Which one do you prefer?
03:36Don't think that bokeh is used only in still-life compositions;
03:40look at the beautiful bokeh in this shot of the bear standing in a field.
03:43The texture of the grass gradually blurs until it becomes a palette of soft colors.
03:49That bank of color holds the composition of the photograph together.
03:54Or this portrait of a girl.
03:56I wanted her face to be the center of attention,
03:59so I shot with a 200-millimeter lens at f/4.
04:02I moved until I was able to place her face so it was surrounded by
04:06beautiful creamy color.
04:09And do you see the subtle diagonal line that blurred grass makes?
04:12It helps to lead you through the frame.
04:15Through thoughtful manipulation of the depth of field, I took a simple situation
04:19and created a compelling portrait, and you can too.
04:24Just remember to look at all things in front of and behind your subject.
04:28Figure out if they help or hurt your photograph. Decide if you want them sharp
04:34or out of focus and then adjust your camera accordingly.
04:38Controlling your depth of field is yet another powerful tool to help you create
04:43more effective photographs.
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2. The Role of Color
Sunrise and sunset: The Kelvin scale
00:01We all know that beautiful use of color can make or break a photograph.
00:06In the next few movies we will take a look at how to do that.
00:09Let's start by talking about the color of light and white balance.
00:13Simply put, this means that the whites in your photographs are white.
00:16They don't have a colorcast of blue or orange or green.
00:20Your eye naturally ignores these color shifts, but not your camera;
00:24you have to tell it what is white.
00:26The color of light changes all the time.
00:29The time of day makes a big difference, but also the time of year, weather
00:33conditions, and smog levels.
00:36The Kelvin scale measures the temperature of light.
00:39The lower the number, say around 2400, the warmer the light; the higher
00:44the colder the light.
00:46To show this, Luke Deming shot this nifty series of well over a thousand images
00:51taken from 6:00 in the morning until 8:00 at night.
00:55All of the photographs were taken at 5500 Kelvin, which is considered the
00:59temperature of light at high noon in July.
01:03Watch how the white surfboard, water, and sand, all change color, and check
01:08out the shadows too.
01:11The sky has a beautiful shade of blue/purple right before sunrise.
01:16The surfboard has a magenta cast and the shadows are soft.
01:20This is a great time to photograph.
01:22The surfboard is in shadow when the sun first comes up,
01:25but look at the warm colorcast of the sand and the waves, and watch how the
01:30board becomes whiter as the morning progresses.
01:34Around noon, the shadows are short. The sand and board are at their most neutral tone.
01:40As we move into late afternoon, the board is now backlit, but you can see how
01:44the sand has started to warm up again. And as the sun sets over the Pacific, the
01:50sand and waves are golden. The shadow is long.
01:54Photographers call the hour around sunrise and sunset the golden hour, and for good reason.
02:00It's a dramatic time to photograph.
02:02Don't only shoot the sunset, but remember to turn around and photograph the
02:06scene that is bathed in that beautiful warm light.
02:10Stay around after sunset too.
02:11You will often have that amazing warm glow lingering for another half hour or
02:16so, especially if there are any clouds in the sky.
02:20So what if you're shooting indoors?
02:22You have got to be aware of the color of light inside too.
02:25We'll explore that in the next movie.
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White balance: Beyond natural light
00:00We introduced you to the Kelvin scale in the last movie, but it's used in
00:04artificial light too.
00:06Different light sources give off different colors of light.
00:09Tungsten and daylight-balanced bulbs are the two most common.
00:13The house lights in the studio are daylight balanced, or 5500 Kelvin.
00:18The camera is set to the daylight setting.
00:21Let's turn on the studio light and turn down the house lights.
00:25These bulbs are also daylight, so their color still looks good.
00:29Now this light has tungsten bulbs.
00:32Tungsten is warmer light, about 2500.
00:36Check out how orange my face looks.
00:39It's not because the light is orange.
00:41It's because the camera is still set for daylight.
00:44Now let's switch to a camera that is set for tungsten, and notice that the
00:48daylight-balanced bulbs now appear blue.
00:51Let's turn this light off to get a better look at how the light from the
00:54tungsten bulbs appear.
00:56Your camera has settings for different light sources.
00:59In the next video we will show you more about what these settings do.
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White balance in camera
00:00No matter what you plan to do with an image in post-production, it's always a
00:05good idea to start with as true a white balance as possible.
00:09Almost all cameras nowadays give you a number of ways to do this.
00:13The first and easiest way is to set your camera in the automatic white balance mode.
00:18The camera figures out what color the light is and how to compensate for it.
00:23So why not use this all the time?
00:24It's simple and you don't have to worry about it. And I use it at times too,
00:29usually when things are happening so quickly that I don't want to be readjusting
00:33as I go. But most of the time I avoid using it, and here is why:
00:39the camera measures reflected light.
00:41If the light is reflected off of something that changes, it will affect the color.
00:47Two photographs under the same lighting may have two different colorcasts.
00:52This is a real drag if you're shooting a series of photographs or an
00:55event like a wedding.
00:57Instead, I like to use one of the camera presets.
01:00It ensures that all of the photographs you take will have the same white balance setting.
01:05Now here's a tip:
01:06when shooting people in sunny conditions or when I'm using my flash, I like to
01:11use the cloudy preset.
01:13It adds just a little bit of warmth to a person's skin.
01:17We've set up a very simple still live to show you the different settings, and
01:21we've hooked my camera up to the monitor, so you can actually see what my
01:26viewfinder is seeing.
01:27The lights in the room have been balanced for 5500 Kelvin, or daylight.
01:33So what you'll see is what the camera does to compensate for the colorcast.
01:38It pumps in warm or cool tones depending on the reflected light it perceives.
01:43Right now I'm in auto white balance, and I'll switch it over to daylight, a
01:50little bit of a difference.
01:52Now shade has a blue cast to it. The camera adds warm tones. And look what
01:57happens when I change it to the cloudy setting.
02:00Again, it's adding a little bit of warm tones to bring it back to a neutral white.
02:06Tungsten light is notoriously orange, and in this case the camera is going to
02:11add blue to compensate for it.
02:15The florescent setting is designed to pump in the right color, but look at how
02:19it adds just a little bit of magenta. And camera flash tends to be very
02:25minimally blue, so the white balance setting, again, adds just a little bit of a warm tone to it.
02:32The best thing about using one of these presets is that you know all your
02:36exposures will have the same color of light;
02:39you're starting at the same base temperature.
02:42For even more control over colorcasts, you can set your custom color balance or
02:49go into Kelvin and actually manually set the Kelvin temperature.
02:54Now here's one of my favorite pieces of equipment, a gray card.
02:59This has saved my bacon so many times, I can't count.
03:03The way you use this is to take a shot of it in the same light that you'll be
03:07photographing in. Then just put it away.
03:10You don't need it for every situation--only when the lighting changes.
03:14And with a few quick clicks in your image processing software, you can adjust
03:19the white balance for every photograph taken under the same lighting conditions.
03:24I'll show you how to do this later in the chapter.
03:28Okay, so now we've done what we can to ensure accurate white balance in the camera.
03:32That will make post-production a lot easier--not only easier, but way faster.
03:39Later on I'll show you some of my techniques for adjusting color in post.
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Using color according to color theory
00:01Color is a dynamic tool, no matter how you use it.
00:04Artists have known this forever, and photographers discovered it when color film
00:08was invented in 1907.
00:10In this video I'll go over how to use color to create compositional movement and
00:15mood in your photographs.
00:18So let's start with a little color theory.
00:20You're probably familiar with the color wheel.
00:23The primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. For reflective art, like paintings,
00:28you use these colors to mix all others.
00:31In photography, our computer monitors mix color with red, green, and blue, but
00:36don't worry--the theory is the same for all of them.
00:39Colors that are opposite of each other on a color wheel work very well together.
00:44These are called complementary colors.
00:46Blue is opposite orange, violet is opposite yellow.
00:50Colors are not all equal when it comes to how our mind interprets them.
00:54Warm colors advance, while cool colors recede.
00:57You can use this to create depth and movement in your photographs.
01:01Yellow and orange are much more in-your-face than blue and purple.
01:06And according to some theories, the photograph will seem off balance if you have
01:10more area in yellow than blue or purple.
01:13These theories state that the yellow should be no more than 33% of the photograph.
01:18Colors that are next to each other on the color wheel create unity.
01:25Vibrant colors like these work well together because they're the same intensity.
01:30Composing a photograph in cooler shade creates a sense of calmness.
01:36Blues and greens work well together to enhance this feeling of serenity.
01:41Sometimes the absence of color can communicate the message you want, or add a
01:47splash of color for an entirely different message.
01:50If you're working with pastels, don't put in a super-saturated color.
01:55The intensity of the red just overwhelms the rest of the tones.
02:00Be aware of how colors work with each other when they're touching each other.
02:03Right now I'm blending into the background, but now I really pop out from the background.
02:12Just as you'd use repeating shapes to move the eyes through your frame, you can
02:16use repeating color to do the same thing.
02:19Classic artists would often place the swatches of color in three places in their
02:23paintings, so that they formed a triangle.
02:26No matter if you are composing for black and white or color, brighter light
02:31regions in your photographs will be the first place people look.
02:35I use these guidelines on assignment all the time.
02:39See how the area of orange light seems to advance against the purple blue of the
02:43sky, and your eye landed on that area of brighter light first.
02:48I didn't know this at the time I was shooting this photograph, but the area of
02:52the yellow is 31% of the frame, almost exactly what the theory calls for.
02:58The photo of these salmon smolts has a calming feel to it because the entire
03:02photograph is in shades of blue.
03:05I moved your eye through this composition of reflected light on a river by
03:09repeating the colors in the rocks.
03:12The many shades of tan, brown, and yellow and the texture of the grass and the
03:17bear's fur create a subtle, but a resting, image.
03:22Now according to art theory guidelines, this photograph shouldn't work.
03:26The yellow area of the photograph is way out of proportion to the blue, but it does work.
03:33The lines in the sand push your eye to the ocean at the top of the photograph.
03:38The blue anchors the yellow and adds another point of interest.
03:42Try covering the blue with your finger.
03:44The photograph is not nearly as intriguing.
03:47So learn the rules. Incorporate them in your work.
03:50But remember to experiment, to create photographs that truly embody your vision.
03:57We've looked at color in theory and in practice, and we've shown you some basic rules.
04:02We've also shown you that you can break those rules. But the main thing is that
04:06you recognize and utilize color to create movement and mood in your photography.
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Color in post
00:00In the last couple of videos we've learned about the color of light and how to
00:04correct your white balance in camera.
00:06Now we've put our captures into our editing software and we are ready to make
00:10the final adjustments.
00:12I'll be demonstrating in Adobe's Lightroom, but the principles translate
00:16for other software too.
00:19So the first thing I do is go into the Develop mode.
00:22It gives you a lot more ability to adjust the photograph.
00:28The photograph is the one that we are using to chart our color temperature for the day.
00:35I'm having the model hold a gray card.
00:38Now what's going to happen is I will take the Eyedropper and come over here and
00:43get a white balance that is correct.
00:46So now that the white balance is correct, I would be able to in just a couple of
00:51clicks get a correct white balance for all of these photographs, and there it is!
00:58All of these photographs have the correct white balance on them at this time.
01:04Now, I would go in and individually work on them a little bit, depending on what
01:09the situation is like, to really finesse them, or I could do a global adjustment
01:14by adjusting the blacks and the contrast and maybe the exposure too and again
01:20sinking this across all of the photographs.
01:25So let's take a look at another example.
01:28This is a pretty nice looking photograph, pretty straight on, but I want to see
01:32what the color balance really is on this, and I don't have a gray card.
01:37So the way to do this is to grab onto your Eyedropper tool and find a Neutral.
01:43Look at the numbers on the bottom of the target.
01:46You can see that they are very close.
01:48That means that you have got a good neutral going.
01:51It looks a little bit blue.
01:54Let's try that again.
01:55I want to see if this girl's pants will give us what we need.
01:59No, that's definitely not the look I am going for,
02:02so we will go back and get a nice clean neutral, and there it is.
02:08At this point I can decide whether or not I want to warm it up a little bit or
02:11leave it correctly balanced, as it is now.
02:14I think I am going to warm it up a little bit to really bring out some of the
02:18jewel tones in the vegetation. All right!
02:23So that's looking pretty nice.
02:24Now, I notice that the red of the girl's top is a little bit too intense,
02:31so I'm going to go down and take the saturation down on just the reds. There it is!
02:39And that will print nicely at this point.
02:41Now, the other thing that I would like to do is I would like to darken the
02:46greens, so again in the Hue, Saturation, and Luminance panel, I will go to
02:51Luminance, click on that, and click on the Target Adjustment tool.
02:56This is a wonderful tool where if you bring it out into the color that you want
03:00to darken, mouse down, and then drag your mouse down,
03:06you'll darken those greens and only the greens.
03:10Everything else is left okay.
03:13Now, you may be noticing that there is blue in the shadows.
03:17This is simply a warning to me that whatever is blue is not going to have any
03:23detail in the blacks, and it's just a nice way to let you know when you're
03:28adjusting that you've lost the detail there.
03:31I don't mind if the detail is lost in those blacks because there's really not
03:35that much detail that I want to see there.
03:37So I am not going to worry about it at this time.
03:40Now this is looking pretty good, but there is something I want to do to add a
03:44little bit of a creative adjustment to it.
03:48I want to darken down the stairway and the steps, because I want all the
03:52attention to be brought down this beautiful diagonal line and into the girls.
03:57So I'm going to go up into the Adjustment Brush, click on that, and adjust my Exposure.
04:05I think about that will work.
04:07Come out with my brush and darken down those stairs.
04:13I want to also darken down a little bit of here, around here, and in this area too.
04:19It's just a little bright.
04:20Now, if I want to increase the darkness, I come back here and pull the Exposure
04:28down until I like it, and I think that works very nicely there.
04:33So Lightroom has a lot of great tools for you to adjust your RAWs in, but don't
04:41think of them only as ways to adjust something that went wrong, but think of
04:46these tools as something that you can do to be very creative.
04:50Let's take a look at a shot that I did.
04:54So you can see that I have the warning on that I'm clipping some of the whites.
05:01That is one thing I never ever want to do,
05:03so I am going to come down here and work with the Recovery mode, and that
05:10takes it right away.
05:11But the main thing about this photograph is that I knew the color was not
05:15going to look very good.
05:17I knew what I wanted to do with it, and what I wanted to do with it was to create
05:21more of an artistic feel to it.
05:23I love the texture in the grass and I love the reflection of the sky in his
05:28trumpet and his posture.
05:30I loved everything about this, but I did not like the color, and so what I did
05:34was I went in and added some warm temperature to it and pulled the Saturation back,
05:40so I could create something that was more on the fine arts side than the
05:44photojournalistic side.
05:46So that's what you should remember about Lightroom, is not only can you use it to
05:51make adjustments, to do corrections, but you can also use it to really unleash
05:56the creative artist within.
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Black and white
00:00I love black-and-white photography.
00:03It's all I shot for years.
00:05I learned to see in black and white while watching an old black-and-white TV
00:10set in my living room.
00:12I discovered how different colors translate into different shades of gray.
00:17Do you remember the colors of these folders?
00:20The conversion may not be quite what you expect.
00:23The blues are lighter, the reds are darker, and in the old days of film, we
00:28adjusted for this with filters.
00:29For example, to darken a blue sky, we would use the yellow or red filter.
00:35Now, this is still possible if you choose to capture in a black-and-white mode
00:39of your digital camera. But you know what?
00:41With digital photography you can turn any photograph into a black-and-white
00:46image simply by adjusting the saturation in your processing software.
00:51So for this reason, I recommend that you shoot RAW in color to have the maximum
00:56flexibility when you process your images.
00:59The question you should ask yourself though is, why do you want your photo
01:03in black and white?
01:05Here are some of the reasons I choose black-and-white.
01:08The message in my photograph will have much more impact.
01:12This photograph is so striking that I think color would've gotten in the way.
01:18The lighting is so bad that it distracts from the image.
01:21Evenly lit florescent rooms are a killer.
01:26The textures and shapes will support the composition and add interest.
01:30The texture of the ivy contrasts very nicely with that of the doll's face.
01:36Another reason is that the treatment will add artistic value to the final print.
01:41This looked, felt, and smelt like a scene from the 1940s.
01:48Now if you're going to convert your images to black and white, there are some
01:51things you should consider when you're shooting.
01:53Black-and-white photos can be made under any light, but you will probably be a
01:58bit more successful if you shoot in soft light without intense shadows, like on
02:03a cloudy day or after sunset or before sunrise.
02:08But please, don't get me wrong.
02:10I'm not saying that high-contrast light never produces great black and white--it does.
02:16This shot was taken at 3 in the afternoon.
02:19You just have to make sure that your exposure gives you details in the shadows
02:23without overexposing the highlights.
02:26So now that we've talked about the why, let's talk about the how.
02:30In the next video I will show you some ways to convert your RAWs to black
02:34and white.
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Black and white in post
00:00Most imaging software programs give you a couple ways to convert
00:04to black and white.
00:05I'll be demonstrating in Adobe Lightroom, but the techniques will apply to others too.
00:10The first thing I do is go into the Develop Module.
00:14I really like the control it gives you.
00:16You have much more control than when you're working in the Library alone.
00:21One simple way is to go over here and click on the Black & White, and you
00:26immediately get a nice conversion.
00:29Once you've done that, you can adjust it a little bit by using the sliders.
00:33Increase the Exposure, decrease it.
00:37I like to add blacks.
00:39I like a beefy print,
00:41so I pull that over a little bit.
00:44Another way is to go down to Saturation and pull the slider all the way over to -100.
00:51Again, at that point you can go back in and adjust your Blacks, your Brightness,
00:57whatever you want to do with this particular photograph.
01:01Now, Lightroom has all sorts of great presets.
01:04Watch the preview up here as I scroll through them.
01:08It gives you an idea of what that kind of technique is.
01:12Which one you choose will really depend on your preference.
01:17Let's take a look at the High Contrast.
01:19Now this one, to my mind, is a little bit too contrasty.
01:23So I am just going to go over here and I am going to adjust it a little bit,
01:26drop down the Contrast, and I will brighten it up a little bit too.
01:32But the best way for me to convert is to go down to the Hue, Saturation,
01:37and Luminance panel.
01:40I go into Saturation and I pull each of the colors down to -100.
01:48The photograph is still in color, but I'm just taking the saturation out of the colors.
01:55After that's done, I go to the Luminance. And this is a wonderful tool,
02:00the Target Adjustment tool. Click on that, go over to the area in the photograph
02:06that you want to darken or lighten, and it will catch only the color that is the
02:11dominant color there.
02:13So in this case I want to darken the blue, so I am clicking and holding and
02:17pulling down, and see how that's darkening the blue up there in the sky?
02:22If I want to lighten it, I can just push it back up and it's lightened up.
02:28So let's take that back down. We'll pull it down, pull it down.
02:33Yeah, that's where I want it.
02:36Now I also want to darken this area.
02:38This was a day where there was a little bit of smog in the Seattle skyline,
02:43so I'm pulling down this a little bit to kind of bring that down in value.
02:50Now, down here, the greens, I want to raise them up just to give a little bit
02:54more detail in them.
02:55So I am clicking and holding and pushing up, and it is just very subtle, what I
03:02have done down here, but I think it adds to the photograph.
03:05Okay, that looks pretty good.
03:08Now, I am going to go back up and take the Adjustment brush and darken the sky even more.
03:15So I will go in here.
03:17I have got -.61. I'm going to bring the Contrast back to 0, because I like to
03:24adjust individual brushes.
03:26That way I can mess with them a little bit later, as far as the intensity.
03:30I am going to do the right bracket to increase my brush size and then start
03:37painting the sky a little darker.
03:41So I think that's just a little bit heavy.
03:43I am going to pull it back up just a little bit.
03:46Now I want to increase contrast.
03:48So I am going to go to a new brush, and I am going to increase that contrast.
03:53Again, I'll put it up to 46, 51, see what it looks like.
03:57Using the same big brush, I will go in and paint the sky.
04:03Increase the contrast a little more, and the clouds are really popping out
04:08from that nice blue sky. All right!
04:11That looks pretty good.
04:12At this point, I think that I'm going to just go back and do a little bit more
04:16adjustment on the Exposure.
04:21That looks pretty good. I'm going to go in and beef up the blacks a little bit. That looks good.
04:28So I like what's happened here.
04:30This is going to look really dynamic as a print.
04:33Let's take a look at where I started and where I finished.
04:38This is the started. This is the finished. Compare them side to side. Pretty nice!
04:44I like the black and white a lot better than I like the color.
04:47There are a lot of ways to convert to black and white, but in the end it really
04:51boils down to what works for your creative eye.
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3. Light and Lighting
The message of light
00:00The scientific definition of light is "electromagnetic radiation that has a
00:07wavelength in a range from 4000 to 7700 angstroms and may be perceived by the
00:13normal unaided human eye."
00:17But does that really describe the beauty and wonder of light we experience?
00:22Does it take into account how our moods are affected by light?
00:25It tells us nothing of why we sometimes describe light as sweet or caressing.
00:31Photography is poetry with light.
00:34Our cameras capture the light that dances off the subject in front of us.
00:39We can choose to leave it natural or manipulate it.
00:42We can even create it.
00:44These choices are based on the mood that you want to set with your lighting.
00:48Here are few principles of light:
00:51contrasty light creates a somber serious mood; even lighting creates a happier
00:56feel; flat lighting minimizes features; and side lighting can add depth.
01:03Sometimes the lighting is so interesting that it just pulls you in.
01:07It poses a question.
01:09No matter if you're photographing people or landscapes, think about what kind of
01:13lighting message you want to send.
01:17Take a look at this photograph I did over in Russia. I love the light.
01:22The message of her expression and the message of the light is the same.
01:27This one I took just a few seconds later.
01:31She has a beautiful smile and the light is still beautiful,
01:35but does it work as well? I don't think so.
01:38The message of her expression and the message of the light conflicts.
01:44Here are a few more examples.
01:47I photographed this Native American drummer in the longhouse before a ceremony.
01:51The beautiful shaft of light in his expression creates a thoughtful and
01:56serious photograph.
01:58The message is clean and this one is too.
02:02This little six year old is celebrating her birthday.
02:05The even lighting accentuates the happy expression on her face.
02:10So the next time you're composing a photograph, ask yourself if the message of
02:15the lighting and the message of the photograph is the same.
02:18If it isn't, you need to adjust your lighting.
02:22In the next few videos, we will show you some basic lighting techniques that
02:25will help you develop your lighting message.
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One-light setup
00:01We've talked about the message of light, but now let's take a look at how to create it.
00:05This is Margo, and she's going to be helping us out today.
00:09Thank you so much for coming in.
00:12We'll start with a simple one-light setup.
00:14This will be our main, or key, light.
00:17To better illustrate this, let's bring down the house lights and I'll fire this one up.
00:24You can see, as I move this light around, how the contours in her face really change.
00:36Now this is what's known as a hair light and you can see that it eliminates the
00:40hair and separates her from the background.
00:43This is more of a silhouette.
00:46Now Margo, could you please turn toward the right.
00:48There we go, and see how pretty that is on her face.
00:52We've got kind of a room light.
00:54I'll bring it a little bit further. Very, very pretty!
00:58Now this is the kind of light-- go ahead and look straight please--
01:02this is the kind of light that our flashes create--
01:06not nearly as pretty. It's very flat.
01:10You lose the depth and the contouring around her face, and this was the glamour
01:16light that often Hollywood would use on their actresses.
01:20Now one thing to look at, too, is the sharp line between the highlights and the shadows.
01:29As I move the light back, you can see how that line kind of diffuses; it becomes softer.
01:37The closer the light source to the subject, the harder, more contrasty the light;
01:41the further away, the softer the light.
01:45So go ahead and smile for me,
01:47a bigger smile, even bigger.
01:51Now her smile is beautiful, but the lighting message we're sending is a more serious one,
01:57so go ahead and just kind of be a little serious, a little somber.
02:01So now her expression is fitting the lighting message that we're trying to send.
02:07With a softer and more even light, you can have that big happy smile.
02:13So far we've been using a direct light source, but other examples of a direct
02:17light source might be a flash or the sun.
02:21You can also make your light source indirect, meaning that the light bounces off
02:25something before it hits the subject.
02:27For this, you would use a reflector, a white card, a concrete driveway;
02:33basically anything that reflects light will work.
02:35So I'm going to have my assistant come in here and lend me a hand of this demo.
02:40I'm also going to increase her light source, because we are bouncing it
02:46a greater distance.
02:49So check out this and how the light really becomes softer on her face.
02:59Look at how the line between the highlights and the shadows really has become
03:04softer and more diffused. And see that beautiful triangle?
03:09Turn your head just a little and now bring it back this way please, even a little bit more.
03:15See that beautiful triangle that's highlighting her eye?
03:18It creates all sorts of depths in her face, and really is just a
03:23lovely caressing light.
03:26So give me a little bit of a smile. There you go.
03:30I love the smile still,
03:32I love the light, but I'm still thinking that the smile is not matching
03:36our lighting message.
03:38So go ahead and just a small smile though.
03:42There you go, much better.
03:46So you can achieve this same soft light by adding a diffusion between your
03:53light and the subject.
03:55I'm going to point this back at you.
04:00Again, look at how harsh those shadows are and look at that triangle by her eye. Now watch this.
04:08Oh, is that sweet?
04:11So if you had a choice, which kind of light would you like to be
04:15photographed under: this or this?
04:21Definitely this one.
04:23Now this is a commercial product, but there are a lots of other things that can work for you:
04:28a bed sheet, a shower curtain, a window sheer.
04:32Now that you've got a working understanding of a single light source, let's take
04:36a look at adding a second light source in the next movie.
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Two-light setup
00:01So this is where we ended the last movie, with a key, or main, light.
00:05Now we're going to add a second light.
00:07It will be filling in the shadows.
00:10That's why we call it a fill light.
00:15The exposure for both of them is about F/11, and they're placed about three
00:20feet away from Margo.
00:21Now see how the shadows have disappeared? Everything is evenly lit.
00:25Now Margo, can you smile for me? Oh!
00:27That's great! That's very nice.
00:31Her smile really works with this lighting.
00:34Now I'm going to move the second light, the fill light, back to about twice the
00:39distance, and we can see how the shadows are starting to change.
00:46They're a little bit deeper, but very beautiful, very dimensional in their look on her face.
00:54Now go ahead and smile again. There you go.
00:57Big smile! There you go.
00:58Okay, it works so well with her expression.
01:05Now I'm going to move a little bit back further, and you can see that the
01:10shadows are starting to deepen and look at the line between the highlights and the shadows.
01:16It's really starting to get contrasty again.
01:19Now give me another smile please, yeah.
01:21The expression is still beautiful, but with the lighting message that I'm
01:28starting to give, it's not quite as good.
01:30I'm really going to move back.
01:36So now, you can really see how the shadows have deepened and check out again
01:41that line between highlight and shadow.
01:43Okay, now give me a smile.
01:46You know it's a little bit too contrasty for that expression, and so with this
01:50lightning, I think I want a more subtle look.
01:53Can you just a little, and now let's try a serious look. There you go.
02:01So what is the right lighting for this portrait?
02:04As with everything in lighting, it's subjective, and it really depends on
02:08your lighting message.
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Seeing and enhancing natural light
00:00Natural light comes in three ways:
00:03amazing, okay-with-potential, and awful.
00:06I'm a natural light junkie.
00:08I love it when I walk into a situation and the light is so wonderful I
00:12just start shooting.
00:13Unfortunately, that happens about 10% of the time.
00:17The rest of the time I have to enhance it or create it, and that's the first
00:21thing I determine when I walk into any situation.
00:24So let's take a look at this in action.
00:27Here we have amazing, beautiful natural light.
00:31I love the diagonals that come down from the blinds, and I'm putting this in my
00:35okay-with-potential category.
00:38The problem is that the difference and intensity between highlight and shadow is
00:42just too great for our cameras to capture.
00:44So if I expose for the highlights then I have shadows without details;
00:48if I expose for the shadows I've blown out the highlights.
00:52Our brains interpret the scene with detail in the shadows, but our sensors can't.
00:56The good news is that I can change this without affecting the overall light
01:02message of the portrait.
01:03The easiest way is to bring in a reflector to fill in the shadows.
01:07I want to just kiss the light right in there.
01:10So Josh, would you please bring that in please?
01:14And look what's happening on her cheek: it's just adding just a little bit more light.
01:20Now you can change it by moving it closer or bringing it further away,
01:27or changing the angle. Let me take a few shots here.
01:30Okay, so tilt your head just a little bit and a little bit of a smile.
01:37Oh, that's nice. Thank you! Okay, see how that works?
01:44When using a reflector, remember that light bounces off a surface at the same
01:48angle that it strikes it.
01:50This knowledge will help you figure out where to put the reflector, and now you
01:54don't have to spend a lot of money on reflectors;
01:57white cardboard works just fine.
02:00We've pulled the blinds and now we have straight light coming in the window. It's very harsh.
02:06Let me take a few shots here.
02:08Can you go ahead and tilt and look at the window?
02:16Look how harsh the shadows are and how deep the shadows are, and that separation
02:21between highlight and shadow is very sharp. But look what happens when we bring
02:27a sheer white curtain across it.
02:28See how the light is softened? The shadow is less intense and the highlight shadow
02:33edge is broader and softer.
02:36Let me take another couple of shots. Oh, I like this light.
02:39Okay and go ahead and tilt your head.
02:41All right, and now smile, give me a smile. Oh, sweet!
02:48Thank you!
02:49See how the sheer has softened the shadows and also note the contrast between
02:56the highlight and the shadow is much softer.
03:00Now we have lace across the window, and it totally changes the whole message of
03:04the lighting in this photograph.
03:06Go ahead and look out the window this time.
03:10Oh, that's beautiful.
03:16I really love how the lace is on her face and also on the tablecloth.
03:20It gives it a beautiful message.
03:22So get creative when you're working with light, and remember, you have three choices:
03:28leave it alone, enhance it, or create it.
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Changing and replicating natural light
00:01I'm from Seattle, where we have consistent light year round:
00:04three months of bright sunshine and nine months of flat gray.
00:09It's a challenge to get the beautiful sunlight streaming through the window in
00:13December, but with a little bit of light know-how, you can create that dazzling sunshine.
00:19Put your main light outside the window, adjust your light, flash, or reflector to
00:24fill the subject, and voila!
00:26You have a sunny day.
00:28Remember the photographs we took in the last movie of Margo near a sunlit window?
00:33Look how they compare to photographs taken of her when using our artificial
00:37sunlight setup, or maybe you want to recreate the natural light of a lamp.
00:42Most bulbs are pretty dim in our cameras.
00:45You can increase your ISO, risking a little bit of noise, or replace the bulbs
00:49with brighter ones for the duration of the shoot.
00:52I often use a slaved flash in lamps.
00:55I love this equipment.
00:57It's a flash with a sensor that is triggered when another flash is set off.
01:01I simply put it in the lamp, take an exposure reading, get my subject in position,
01:06and trigger it with an on-camera flash bounced off the ceiling. Check this out.
01:16The settings on my on-camera flash are determined by how much I want it to fill the scene.
01:20When blending natural light in flash, the natural light determines the
01:24settings on your flash.
01:27I used this piece of equipment to illuminate a cross in a chapel in
01:31Mexico's Copper Canyon.
01:34I had beautiful light coming in from the window.
01:36I had plenty of exposure for the room, but the cross was lost in the shadows.
01:41So I put my slave flash behind it and popped on an on-camera flash to trigger it,
01:47and the result was an image where the cross dominated the scene.
01:52In a thatched roof hut in Guatemala, I wanted to recreate the glow of a cooking
01:56fire as a woman made tortillas.
01:59The hut was so dark I could hardly see to focus.
02:02I put an orange gel over the slave and triggered it with my on-camera flash.
02:07Now the light looks like it's coming from the fire.
02:11My goal in almost all of my lighting is to create beautiful and believable light
02:16that enforces the message I want to create in my photographs.
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4. Motion
The role of motion in photography
00:00Our cameras are designed to give you the choice of blurring or stopping the action,
00:05but it's really up to us to decide which one would be more effective to the
00:08message and the subject of our photograph.
00:11If the point of your photograph is to show a bear lunging for a salmon, then you
00:15may want to stop the action.
00:17If you want to create a sense of speed, then panning is the way to go.
00:22But if you want a more poetic message, then let the subject move through the
00:26frame or jiggle the camera a little bit.
00:28If you want to create interest and use perceived motion as a tool of
00:32composition, you can try zooming.
00:35The point is that your use of motion is yet one more of the decisions you make
00:39when creating a photograph.
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Camera settings for freezing or blurring motion
00:01As you know, there are three components to exposure:
00:04one is aperture, one is ISO, and one is shutter speed.
00:08Before we talked about aperture and how it affects your depth of field, today
00:12we're going to talk about your shutter speed and how that affects your motion
00:15in your photograph.
00:18We have a helper here, Margo, who is going to help us with a series of
00:21photographs at different shutter speeds, to see exactly when we can stop the action.
00:26The first one we're going to do is that 1/2000th of a second.
00:32That should stop just about anything.
00:35The aperture will be probably around 2.8 to 4, and I'm working at an ISO of 100,
00:42because it's such a beautiful day here.
00:44So, let's see what happens here.
00:46Okay Margo!
00:56Yup, just as I expected.
00:59The motion is completely frozen.
01:01I think we will try it again at 1/250th of a second.
01:05I am still going to be in the shutter priority mode, in automatic.
01:09Okay Margo!
01:19Oh yeah, now I am starting to see a little bit of motion in the photograph,
01:24just barely a little bit in her hands and her feet in some of these.
01:29So now we are going to drop down to 1/60th of a second.
01:32We are really going to start to see the motion here.
01:35Okay. Using a 60th of a second with a runner who is so fast means that her
01:50body is a blur as it goes through the photograph, so think about what we've done today.
01:56We started at 1/2000th of a second, where we showed that the action
02:01is completely stopped.
02:03At 1/250th of a second, the action is starting to be kind of blurry.
02:08The motion is starting to get into there, and then of course 1/60th of a
02:12second, there is no stop action there at all.
02:15So it's kind of subjective, when you start thinking about which one is better.
02:20For my taste, I like the one where all the action is stopped.
02:24I think that her gait is so lovely and her face is so great.
02:29I like that one a lot.
02:31You know I could also go a little bit with 1/250th of a second too.
02:35It's got just a little bit of motion in it that I think indicates speed.
02:39What I do know is that I do not like the 60th of a second for what I'm trying
02:44to accomplish here, which is to create a sense of speed, and showing this
02:50young runner at her best.
02:52So with a little bit of experience, you'll start to figure out what shutter
02:56speed really works best for the topic that you're photographing and the
03:01subject's power as they move through the frame.
03:06It takes a little bit of time, but with practice you'll get it.
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Techniques for panning
00:00There are times that you want to stop action and yet still convey motion,
00:05so the answer for you is to pan.
00:08A pan is simply to follow the action with your camera at a slow shutter speed.
00:13There are lots of ways to mess up a pan, and believe me, I haven't done them all.
00:19But with a few tips it will help bring up your percentage of success, with this technique.
00:25So the first thing that we are going to do is look for a background that has a
00:29nice texture to it or gradations of black and white or great color.
00:34That will really add interest to your background.
00:37The next thing is to figure out how fast the subject is actually going and
00:43adjust your shutter speed accordingly.
00:45I like to use between the 1/15th and 1/60th of a second for my shutter speeds
00:50when I'm doing a pan.
00:51And then the next thing to do is to figure out your focus situation.
00:57Now I've found that using a servo, the automatic focus in servo mode, is really
01:04all I need to do, and that is always recalculating the focus as we go along.
01:10And then the final tip, and probably the most important tip that I can give
01:14you, is to think about where the action is going to start and where the
01:18action is going to end.
01:21Take your feet and point it at where you think the action is going to end,
01:26and then you can curve your body around and look at where the action is going to start.
01:33As these runners go by us, I will be very smoothly photographing as my
01:39body naturally unwinds.
01:41Okay, so let's try it out.
01:44I'm shooting at 1/60th of a second, and I am at an ISO of 100.
01:49I am on shutter priority, and I think we are ready to go.
01:54Are you guys ready? All right, let's do it. Great!
02:05Now did you see how smooth that was, to just follow them as they came by me?
02:11It works really well.
02:12Oh yeah, okay, so I'm seeing some of the pans in there.
02:16I am seeing some of the streaks from the background.
02:19But I think that we can try it a little bit slower.
02:22I am going to move my camera back down to 1/30th of a second and see what we can get from that.
02:28Okay, gentlemen, are you ready?
02:38Okay. Oh yeah. Okay, that's working. The streaks from the bleachers are really cool.
02:46They are really nice and long, and yet I still have the action stopped on one of the runners.
02:53This is going to be fun.
02:55I think I am going to take it down to 1/15th of a second and just see what that will do.
03:00All right, are you ready to roll?
03:14Okay, yeah, I think maybe the 15th of a second was a little bit slow for the
03:19message that I'm trying to send.
03:21It certainly was artistic, but there was nothing in focus.
03:24I'm not quite sure that gets across the message of speed that I was hoping for.
03:29Now remember the 30th of a second was really nice.
03:33The streaks of the bleachers were really long and yet parts of the athletes were
03:38sharp, and the action had been stopped.
03:40So I am going to take a look at that again.
03:42That one was the best one so far.
03:45Now the thing with pans is, don't expect to get it on your first try.
03:51Just keep working at it. Keep trying.
03:53Keep experimenting with different shutter speeds.
03:55I mean eventually, you'll get to a point where your percentage of success goes
04:00up, but nobody, no matter how experienced they are, gets it on the
04:05first try. Have fun with it.
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Other ways to create motion
00:00We have reviewed some of the more common ways to handle motion on our shots,
00:05but there are an endless number of other possibilities for creating a sense of motion too.
00:10Let your subject move through the photograph.
00:13This can really send a cool, edgy message.
00:16Have your subject stand still and let the action move around your subject. Move your camera.
00:23You can move it to create a zoom effect, or sideways for a bit of motion blur,
00:27or jiggle it for just that hint of edgy.
00:31Zoom in or out while you're taking the shot.
00:33It's a bit poetic in my mind.
00:36As with all photo techniques, these will eventually become easier to execute,
00:41and you'll have yet another tool for enhancing your compositions.
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Creating blur in Photoshop
00:01So you've tried the pan or zoom techniques and you just can't get them to work
00:04for you--at least not yet. Or you might have an existing shot that you think
00:09would look really good with motion added.
00:11Well, there is another option.
00:13You can recreate blur in Photoshop using the blur filters.
00:17I'll go over a couple techniques that I find practical in my work.
00:20But as you know, if you've ever used the software, there are a million other
00:24ways to do this too.
00:26So let's head over to the computer and check it out.
00:28The very first thing I do is to create a new layer in Photoshop.
00:36I'm going to name this blur.
00:38It's important to name your layers so you can remember what you did with them.
00:44Now let's go up to the Filter and go down to the Blur and down to the Radial Blur.
00:49Now you'll notice it's on the Spin Blur Method.
00:54I want this to be Zoom, so I'll click that.
00:57And I want to change the Amount of zoom that I get in this effect,
01:02so I will move the slider until I find one area that I think will look kind of cool.
01:08And I think it will be right there.
01:10You can also move the center of the zoom, that is, where the zoom starts.
01:15And I think I'm going to try to make it right where the main front flower is. All right!
01:20That looks good, and there it is.
01:23So I've got the effect.
01:25But I want to have this foreground flower to be in focus,
01:29and so I'm going to make a mask.
01:32And the purpose of this mask is that everywhere I paint with black, I will let
01:38the bottom layer show through.
01:40So I'll go over and get a brush, check to make sure the Opacity is at 100%.
01:46I'm going to make the photograph a little bit bigger by hitting Command+Plus so
01:52that I can see a little bit better where I'm working. Isn't that great?
01:57You can see the flower is being revealed underneath where I am brushing black on the mask.
02:02Okay. So I did a little bit too much in one area.
02:07It's easy to fix when you're working with masks.
02:09I'm just going to change the foreground color to white and go back in, and you
02:16can see when I go back in that the photograph becomes blurry again, that the
02:22effect of the zoom blur is coming back.
02:25Very easy to fix your mistakes when you're working with a mask.
02:29Okay, now I'm changing back to a foreground color of black.
02:34I'm going up here to the Opacity because I want to pull back the opacity so that
02:40the sharpness is not abrupt.
02:43I want to create kind of a soft edge.
02:46I'm increasing the size of the photograph, so I can really see what I'm doing.
02:51And I'm coming in here with an Opacity of 58 and just pulling in some of the
02:56detail around the edge of the flower, something like that.
03:03I'm going to lower my Opacity even more and go out and make that transition a
03:09little bit smoother out in this area. All right!
03:14Command+Minus to get it back to where I can see the total effect, and I think
03:19that looks pretty good.
03:21So I'll go back up to the layers and we'll flatten the Image.
03:26I'm going to do a Save As and I'll put an identifier on here saying radial.
03:34Save it, and there you go.
03:40Next up we're going to look at motion blur on a photo of an athlete.
03:44So here we are with a photo of Trishana running.
03:47I made a pan shot by using a slow shutter speed.
03:50I also shot ones where I stopped the action.
03:54Now I'm going to demonstrate how to put the motion into your photograph in Photoshop.
03:59So the first thing you do is to make a layer.
04:02I'm going to title that layer blur.
04:05Then go up to Filter, go down to Blur, and down to Motion Blur.
04:14Now the Distance can be affected depending on how much blur you want in there.
04:19You can see the preview in both the photo and the Preview box. And I think about
04:24that is where I want to go today.
04:27Now the Angle I'm going to keep at 0 because it's a pan shot.
04:31I want the motion to go across horizontally and not any kind of up or down motion in it.
04:38Click OK. I'm going to increase the size of the photograph so I can see what I'm doing, and
04:45I will make a mask out of this.
04:47I'm going over to the brush.
04:51I'm checking to make sure that the Opacity is 100%, and I'm going to go down
04:57and change the foreground color to black.
05:00You can do that by clicking on the arrow or hitting the X on the keyboard.
05:05Still, I'm going to make it a little bit bigger, and this is so I can really see
05:10what my edges are doing.
05:11I'm going to make my brush smaller by hitting the left bracket key.
05:17So I don't want to get too far out into the background.
05:24Just bring this down.
05:26What you're seeing is the layer below this one coming in nice and sharp.
05:32That looks pretty good to me at this point.
05:34Maybe a little arms, again make the brush a little smaller by doing bracket,
05:41and just bringing it in anywhere that I want to kind of have the photograph sharp.
05:47We'll go into her face and do that the last.
05:53In a natural pan caught in camera, not everything is sharp when you're in your subject.
05:59And so I'm leaving a lot of it kind of blurry just for that reason, just to make
06:04it a little bit more believable.
06:06Now I've lowered my Opacity to about 39%, and this will allow me to come in and
06:11do a little bit less intense sharpening of the image.
06:16And with this, I can start bringing in a little bit more of her arm.
06:20What I'm trying to do is not going to the background too much, because that
06:26would really destroy the effect if the background is sharp, like down here
06:31where I made a mistake.
06:32The nice thing about masks: very easy to correct this mistake.
06:36I'm just going to change the foreground color to white by pressing the X. I'm
06:41going in there and just restoring that area.
06:45Now I'll press the X to bring it back to black because I want to have some of
06:49her shoes sharp, and little bit more on this shoe on this side. There you go!
06:57So let's see how we're looking now.
07:01It's looking pretty good.
07:02I'm going to go in and just touch up a little bit more here.
07:06But overall I think it's getting there. All right!
07:10So let's take a look at what happens when I take off the blur layer.
07:14We're totally sharp.
07:15Put it back on and you really are beginning to have that sense of motion.
07:21Let's look at the original one that I captured in camera and see how it compares.
07:26Bring this up a little bit so you can see it, and let's compare them side by side.
07:31So you're getting to see a little bit of that motion that replicates the real
07:38motion in the photograph that I did in camera.
07:40So I'm sure you're wondering why I still do my pans and motion in camera, if I
07:46can do them so easily in Photoshop.
07:48The answer is simple:
07:50I love the challenge of mastering these techniques and getting it right in camera.
07:55To me, photographing is the fun part of being a photographer.
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5. The Decisive Moment
Peak action
00:00At first glance it may not seem like photographing sports and photographing
00:05wildlife have anything in common.
00:08One takes place out in the wild and the other usually takes place in a town or a city.
00:13But there is an important similarity: with both types of photography you
00:18can't control the action.
00:20You're relegated to the sidelines where you wait for the action to happen,
00:25and when it does, you've got to be ready to capture it; you may not get a second chance.
00:31In every active situation there is a moment called peak action.
00:36It's the one photograph from a series that can stand alone, that tells the story.
00:41It may be the longjumper at the top of our arc, or your daughter as she
00:46kicks the winning goal, or a bear just missing a salmon, or the driver flying out of the hydroplane.
00:54Let's take a closer look at peak action.
00:57I spent a wonderful day at Oso Ranch photographing Sue jumping on horse.
01:02Before I even took a shot, I asked Sue what I should look for in this peak action
01:07photo. Then I watched her jump a couple times, paying close attention to how the
01:12horse approached the jump and Sue's posture.
01:16The point of my research was to help me know a bit more about the activity, so I
01:20could anticipate the action.
01:23Now the best tip I can give you when shooting peak action is to take a lot of photographs.
01:29It increases your chances of getting everything right.
01:32To show you what I mean, here's my entire take from the horse jumping
01:36assignment: a total of 54 images.
01:40My exposure was at 1/2000th of a second to make sure I stopped the action.
01:44My aperture was f/4.5.
01:47Using my Depth of Field preview button, I knew that the jump would be in focus.
01:52I put my camera shutter in Burst mode so I could shoot continuously, and I set
01:57my camera's Auto-focus feature to Continuous mode so that the lens would
02:01constantly keep the subject in focus.
02:04On Canon cameras this feature is called AI Servo; on Nikons it's
02:09called Continuous focus.
02:12As soon as the horse began its approach, I pressed the shutter button and held it
02:16down to shoot a burst of photos.
02:19Let's check them out. No, no--Oh!
02:22Here it is: of this series this image is the peak action shot.
02:28The horse's legs are up and it's jumping over the rail.
02:32It's okay, but based on what I learned from Sue, this is not great form.
02:37I want the horse's front legs to be raised a little bit more.
02:41I missed it by only a split second.
02:45That can be a problem in Burst mode: the best peak action sometimes
02:49happens between shots.
02:52This time I waited to start continuous shooting.
02:55I figured that my instincts would do a better job.
02:58I kept the same settings as before except that I pre-focused on the rail.
03:05Now I still used auto-focus, but this gave the camera a starting point close to the action.
03:12This is helpful because not all cameras and lenses are the same when it comes to
03:16auto-focus speed or burst speed.
03:19By holding the shutter button down part way it makes a camera's job of focusing
03:24a little bit faster.
03:26Burst speed is affected by your camera,
03:30your Flash card's write speed, the buffer, and the size of the capture. Here we go.
03:38The first one is definitely the best peak action.
03:41I was able to anticipate the moment and catch it.
03:45In this situation I know exactly where the action was going to happen,
03:48but what about shooting wildlife or sports like football or soccer.
03:54You've really got to do the research so you can anticipate the action and then
03:58be in position when it happens.
04:01Before I shoot wildlife, I learn about the animal behavior.
04:04For example, where do bears fish for salmon?
04:08With sports, too, knowing the behavior of the athletes is important, but also
04:13study the rules so you'll be able to anticipate the plays of the game.
04:19You get the idea. The more you understand the action, the better chance you have
04:24of capturing the peak action.
04:27Here are some general tips to remember when you're going for peak action.
04:31Set your shutter speed to 1/500th of a second or faster.
04:35If you're shooting in dim light, increase your ISO to allow for the fast shutter speeds.
04:40Follow the action with your auto-focus set to continuous.
04:45Shoot a little bit looser than you normally would to allow for the animal
04:49or athlete's movement.
04:51Shoot in high speed burst mode.
04:54You'll shoot a lot of images, but what the heck. As photographers used to say
05:00film is cheap, opportunity is expensive.
05:03And keep your head in your game. Don't be distracted by who is winning or losing.
05:10So next time your kid's playing a soccer match, head out and get some practice in.
05:16If you can get great shots from the unpredictable action of a junior soccer
05:20game, you can shoot just about anything.
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Capturing the decisive moment
00:00In the last movie we talked about peak action in sports and
00:04wildlife photography.
00:06Photojournalism has an equivalent.
00:08It's called the decisive moment, and I often refer to this as moments of life.
00:14Like peak action the decisive moment is the single image that captures the
00:19action or essence of what you're photographing.
00:22This photograph sums up the story and can stand alone without supporting images
00:27or words, but there's a difference between peak action and decisive moment.
00:32With peak action the photograph can be judged by sharp focus, stopped action, or
00:39whether the ball is in the frame.
00:42With the decisive moment the standard of success is more emotional and subtle,
00:48and sometimes it depends on the viewer's reaction to the photograph.
00:52You might not know for sure what the decisive moment is until after you've had a
00:57chance to look at the images.
00:59Here is an example.
01:01I wanted to photograph the excitement of horses when they were first let out to run.
01:06I started shooting as their handler released them.
01:08The horses immediately raced to the far end of the corral and never came back.
01:14I was disappointed at the time, but when I looked at the photographs from the
01:19shoot I realized the decisive moment was one of the first shots I took.
01:25You can almost feel the intensity of the horses as the handler scrambled out of the way.
01:31It sums up the excitement and danger that none of the other
01:34photographs captured.
01:37A reporter takes notes with a notepad.
01:39I take notes with my camera.
01:42When I'm in a situation with potential I really work it until I'm confident
01:47I've got it covered.
01:49One day during the Exxon Valdez oil spill I photographed workers cleaning up a
01:54beach, and then went back with them on their boat. Some sat,
02:00some stood; all were physically exhausted from the 12-hour day.
02:06I tried several different angles and watched for different expressions.
02:10Out of the 10 shots I did before we docked, this is the decisive moment.
02:16It's subtle, but the downcast eyes on this man and his coworker's slumping
02:22shoulder really communicate their emotions.
02:26My editor thought so too. The magazine ran this photograph across two pages.
02:32And you know if I had stopped taking pictures after the first couple shots I'd
02:36never have gotten an image with such power.
02:40The bottom line is this, moments happen all around you all the time.
02:46The trick is to be looking for them, be ready for them, and then capture them by
02:52taking lots of notes with your camera.
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Conclusion
The importance of research
00:00The success or failure of your photo shoot is affected by the work you do before
00:05you leave the house.
00:07No matter if you're shooting landscapes, wildlife, or people, you've just got to
00:12know what you're getting into and prepare for all possibilities.
00:16For me, research is a joy.
00:18I love to learn about new places or animals or cultures, and I find out the
00:24answers to any questions I might have before I go shoot.
00:28For example, when are the fall colors at their peak?
00:32What will access be like at the time you want to photograph.
00:36You certainly don't want to show up and find out you can't get there.
00:41What are the months when you're most likely to get the great light?
00:44I am from the Northwest.
00:46We have basically about three months in the summer when we have sunny days.
00:51If I want to photograph in the bright sun, then that's the best time to go--
00:55that is the only time to go.
00:59If my intention is to create a moody shot of clouds or mist or storms, then I
01:05can go any time between November and March.
01:08Scope out your locations before hand, walk the trails looking for the right scenes.
01:15If you can, return when you know the light will be better.
01:19Check out the official viewpoints from the road.
01:22They're always located in a beautiful spot.
01:25Before I go, I often talk to the people who live in the area.
01:29They're full of great ideas.
01:32Or talk to the experts who study the area, like biologists and park rangers.
01:37They are great sources of information too.
01:40Do an Internet search to find out what other photographers have shot. Look for
01:45postcards and pamphlets of the area. Don't copy the photographs, but use them as
01:51a reference for possible locations.
01:53I spend all the time researching, because I want to know what's important to
01:59the people I photograph;
02:01this helps me tell their story.
02:03Are there any ceremonies or traditions? Where can I shoot? More importantly,
02:09where shouldn't I shoot?
02:12I learned this the hard way. During a religious ceremony
02:15I offended the local residents when I sat in a place reserved for their Gods.
02:22Fortunately, they forgave my ignorance and allowed me to continue shooting.
02:26So before you leave, think about what can go wrong, think about what you want to
02:32communicate, and do your research. You'll be glad you did.
Collapse this transcript
Planning for your shoot
00:01Plan to fail, but be prepared with a backup plan.
00:05There is always a problem when you're shooting.
00:08I can think of only one assignment where there wasn't, and we're talking about
00:12thousands of assignments.
00:14The worst-case scenario happened to me when I was in the middle of nowhere in
00:18Alaska photographing salmon.
00:20Both my underwater camera housing and my dry suit started leaking.
00:26Fortunately, I had a backup Nikonos that I was able to use until the new housing
00:30was flown in from Washington, D.C., a week later.
00:34No luck with the dry suit though. I just covered it with duct tape and got used to the cold.
00:40Even above water I always shoot with two cameras, and I often bring a third or a
00:45fourth just in case.
00:47The extra bodies came in really handy in eastern Siberia when I was camping out
00:53in a tent in the winter for a story on reindeer herders.
00:57Three of my cameras failed, because of the extreme cold;
01:01it was 30 below zero.
01:03My fourth one kept on clicking.
01:05Now I put a lot of thought in to packing my gear.
01:09The first obvious question is, what are the conditions?
01:12But a really important consideration is whether I'll have an assistant or a
01:16guide to help carry the gear.
01:17The reality is that I can't bring all the gear I want to bring on my assignments.
01:23It's always a balance between weight and the essential equipment.
01:27For example, I'd love to have an extreme telephoto on every shoot, but it's
01:34heavy and it's not practical for the remote shots.
01:37So a compromise is to bring my 70 to 200 mm lens.
01:41It's an F28, and also bring along the 2X tele extender.
01:46That way if I need a longer telephoto, I can get it up to a 400 focal length.
01:52With the 2X, I do lose two stops, but I'll tell you, I gain a lot in flexibility.
01:58When I'm shooting weddings, I use my 70-200 f/4. It's even lighter.
02:04Again, I lose a stop, but it's so easy to hold that I can lower my shutter
02:08speed to compensate.
02:10So you've probably noticed that I shoot Canon gear, but I'm an equal
02:14opportunity photographer when it comes to cameras.
02:17I use the Canon above water and a Nikon below, and there are lots of other great
02:22manufacturers out there too.
02:25The main thing to remember is that your equipment is a tool. A carpenter needs a
02:30hammer to build a house, and you need a camera to make pictures.
02:34So whatever system you use, just make sure you know how to get the most out of it.
02:40I am a just-in-case photographer.
02:42I make three copies of every photograph I take: two are on my hard drives in my
02:47studio and one copy is stored offsite, just in case.
02:52I make a list of all the gear a need for every assignment I shoot, and I double-
02:57check it right before I leave, just in case.
03:00I literally have nightmares about showing up without flash cards, so I keep a
03:07couple in my purse, just in case.
03:11My gear list will change depending on what I'm shooting.
03:14For landscape and nature, it will include long lenses, wide angles, a macro
03:20and a close-up ring,
03:21speed lights, a monopod, a tripod, and a remote trigger.
03:27Now it also will be essential for me to bring lens tissue, a couple of towels,
03:33boots, rain gear, a tarp, plastic garbage bags, food, and water, and three or more
03:40containers of mosquito repellent, especially in Alaska.
03:44You do not want to be caught without it.
03:47Some of these lists might be kind of short, like the one I used when I
03:50photograph weddings.
03:51I don't need the long telephoto lenses, but I do need reflectors and a cloth
03:56that I can use to protect the dress from the grass.
04:00So the bottom line is, the more thought and research you put into it before you
04:05leave the house, the better your chance is for success.
Collapse this transcript
Goodbye
00:00In this course I've covered many of the tools of composition, color, and light
00:05that I've learned over my career.
00:07While at first you may have trouble remembering to incorporate them into your
00:10photography, keep at it.
00:13Each time you look at a photograph, whether it's yours or someone
00:16else's, analyze it.
00:18Ask yourself, what rules of composition are in a photograph?
00:21Where is the light coming from?
00:23What is the main subject?
00:25And how did your eye travel through the image?
00:27What is the lighting message?
00:30You will train your eyes simply by analyzing photographs, and while at first
00:34it may feel really cumbersome to implement some of the things you studied in
00:38this tutorial, with practice it'll become second nature.
00:43So that's it for now.
00:44Good luck and good shooting!
Collapse this transcript


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