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Douglas Kirkland on Photography: Editorial Assignment

Douglas Kirkland on Photography: Editorial Assignment

with Douglas Kirkland

 


In the Douglas Kirkland on Photography series, well-known photographer Douglas Kirkland explores a variety of real-world photographic scenarios, sharing technique insights and critiquing the results.

In this installment of the series, Douglas goes on location and shows how to shoot photographs for publications. He begins with a look at the planning and packing involved in an on-location editorial shoot. Next, he shows how to construct a photo that tells a story about its subject. He demonstrates how to light and position the subject and use props to best tell the story. After getting the shot that will be on the article’s opening pages, he shoots documentary photos that show the subject in action.

Finally, he reviews the best images from the shoot and shows how he uses Photoshop to complete his workflow and refine the images. Douglas also shows how the final images were used by the magazine’s art director and describes how editorial photographers must compose shots with page design in mind by leaving space for typography and other elements.

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author
Douglas Kirkland
subject
Photography, Cameras + Gear
level
Appropriate for all
duration
41m 36s
released
Apr 15, 2011

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Introduction
Course highlights
00:06Hi! My name is Douglas Kirkland.
00:08Thanks for joining us today for On Photography.
00:11Today we are going to be talking about the editorial assignment.
00:14Our job was to go into her home, watch her work, but also to get a very strong
00:19lead picture, and this is the lead picture we got.
00:21When you go on location as photographer, it's an entirely different ball game
00:26because you must have everything there.
00:29You can't say oh, if I only had another da, da, da.
00:33You must bring it with you.
00:34We are working here in her home.
00:36We will really do a very clean picture, which would be-- is probably the
00:40picture that the publication wants more than anything else.
00:44This is building a picture.
00:45Basically, you have the art and the artist.
00:47You have to feel good about the colors and the forms and shapes.
00:51It's very exciting.
00:52I get a buzz on, because I know we have got a good picture going.
00:55Then make yourself comfortable, you will find your spot.
00:57Ah, I love that!
00:59I love it.
01:04First thing I had to do is have the lighting right, however.
01:06There was a window in front of the table where she worked and there was a
01:09quite a bit of light coming through it and I had the choice of maybe putting
01:12something over the window to stop the light, and I said no, let's use what's there.
01:15I wanted her to relax a little, so I suggested that she lean on her hand just to
01:21give her something to do. It's a very simple gesture.
01:23And this is all for me part of telling a story with my pictures and the
01:28pictures that we take for an editorial layout.
01:31I hope you've enjoyed this portion of On Photography and editorial photography.
Collapse this transcript
Welcome
00:01Hi, my name is Douglas Kirkland.
00:03Thanks for joining us today for On Photography.
00:06Today, we're going to be talking about the editorial assignment, something I
00:09care very much about. I have been doing it a long time.
00:12And when you are doing an editorial assignment, your head must be in a
00:16slightly different place.
00:17I am going to show you some of the reasons, but in a few words, you have to be
00:21evaluating and you are reporting through your pictures.
00:25Frankly, that's how it works.
00:27Whereas if you are doing advertising or promotional work, you're thinking
00:30through your client's eyes.
00:31So, as a photo reporter or a journalistic type photographer, you are evaluating
00:36and you make pictures in a different way.
00:38Let me show you some of them.
00:40This is Frank Garry, the prominent worldwide known architect who design
00:45among others, well, so many buildings around the world, but in this case he was still
00:50working on the Disney Center in Los Angeles and this was in assignment done for
00:56an Italian magazine called Max.
00:58And this picture here is basically a single image, which probably could be an
01:02environmental portrait and do the job alone.
01:05But there was so much more to talk about Frank and so here we have images like
01:09this up him at work, within this model that he has created of what would
01:13become the Disney Center and he is checking the acoustics and everything.
01:17But that's exciting. You are giving information and that's what editorial is about.
01:21Now, here's another example.
01:23Here's a portrait but with information.
01:25This is a lead picture again stands up because this is a wonderful French
01:29actress and director named Julie Delpy.
01:32She normally is in Europe and France but here she was working in LA. So what did we do?
01:38I took her out to near the Hollywood sign which you can see in the background
01:43at sunset.
01:44I'm using a strobe on her as well just to get some of the feel of the light and
01:49the place and one picture does so much, gives you information.
01:53I could write a caption for this very easily.
01:55And then we go a little further.
01:57I go walking around LA with her, around Hollywood, and just picking up
02:01pictures quickly.
02:02Nothing really planned,.I was just walking down the street and I am doing sort
02:06of a photo report on her real world and this part of the excitement about all of
02:10this type of work.
02:11Now this is a wonderful artist named Ed Moses and here is for me the lead picture.
02:17It's very significant because this is all his wonderful artwork and so I've put
02:22these pieces together so they form a comfortable design.
02:25I have an enormous respect for this man and I wanted it to be very good but we also,
02:30being editorial, we have allowed space up here because frequently editors will
02:34want to put words in their explaining.
02:37So, this is a good solid lead picture and once you get your lead picture,
02:41all the others seem to just speak for themselves.
02:43Now here is Ed just outside of his studio preparing some of these stencils and
02:49again it's Ed at work and this is very important as an image because he's in his
02:54environment and we are seeing him in closer now.
02:56We get a good close look at his face.
02:58And he's a great master and I have an enormous respect for him.
03:02Now, I want to take you to another place.
03:04We got an assignment about the last ten days to photograph for an American
03:10publication called American Craft and it was with this wonderful artist named
03:15Hannie Goldgewicht and she is a great artist, a ceramic artist, and she creates
03:20these wonderful pieces.
03:21And our job was to go into her home, which is also her studio, and watch her work
03:28but also to get a very strong lead picture and this is the lead picture we got.
03:32Now, I want you to come with us and see how that all happened.
Collapse this transcript
Editorial Assignment
Planning gear for location shoots
00:00Douglas Kirkland> The shoot is today.
00:03Basically it's for the Craft Magazine.
00:06We are doing the lead picture and what-- well, in their case, what they wanted,
00:14the art directors, is that they wanted a Hollywood look of this lady and glamorize her.
00:18So, what it's going to mean is taking a main soft box and the low light.
00:23We should have a 9-foot seamless with us and the stands for the seamless.
00:32This is a good example of a typical day where we're going on a
00:36magazine assignment.
00:37And it's a slightly different type of shoot. This is not like a portrait shoot,
00:41a traditional portrait shoot.
00:43She is a crafts person and she's going to be making something with clay, which
00:49she is a great artist at, and what they want is a forceful lead picture and then
00:54they said "Keep your eyes open for anything else."
00:59When you go on location as photographer, it's an entirely different ball game
01:04because you must have everything there.
01:06You can't say, "Oh, if I only had another da, da, da." You have must bring it with you.
01:12And again, it's a strobe day for a number of reasons.
01:15First, that's a type of lighting the client basically wants.
01:18They don't want the sense of available light, which I love often, but
01:22the look that we are going for is this radiant, beautiful image and we have to
01:27have everything there.
01:28We have to have the spot grids, we have to have make sure that the holders are
01:32there for the grids, the radio transmitters for our strobe lights. We have in
01:37what we call our blue case, we have three heads and two 1000 watt packs.
01:44So, you have to structure in your mind and you have to make choices.
01:50Especially this is one thing when we are in town, but it's even more complex,
01:55if you are going away as I've had to. For example, I was working on the film Australia.
01:58I was away for seven weeks.
01:59And you have to stop and think, what is everything I am going to need for
02:02the next seven weeks?
02:04And you better have it, because when you are out in the outback,
02:07thousands of miles, the other side of the Europe, you can't say "Gee, If I only
02:12had my special lens." You better bring it with you but at the same time, it's
02:17even more complicated because you can't take excess weight, because you have to
02:22drag all the stuff along.
02:23Some people make a mistake of taking too much.
02:26So, the decisions are made, what you need, what you are going to use.
02:31Be practical. It's part of the game. Very, very important.
02:36This case is what we call the number one.
02:38Why do we call it the number one? Because it's the one that always goes.
02:41It's the one we put our meter in, our principal camera. See some of the
02:45transmitters are here.
02:47And in the side front pockets here we have lots of little tricks and things like
02:50there is a special screwdriver to tighten our tripod.
02:53There is a certain type of wrench that we require.
02:55Here is a wonderful star and a mist filters that fit on our principal lenses.
03:04With adapters and otherwise.
03:06Sometimes, we can't take it if we are going certain parts the world but normally
03:09it's with us and has our meter in here. Anumber of our lenses are in here.
03:14Here's our 1DS Mark III here.
03:16That's the camera we're going to be principally using today and then there is
03:19a backup camera.
03:21I wouldn't go out without a backup camera.
03:23I don't want to go anywhere without one, because even though this equipment,
03:27modern equipment from I guess just about all manufacturers today but especially
03:32Canon, is highly reliable,
03:34weird things can happen and as a professional you cannot say "Hey I would gotten it,
03:41 but the camera broke."
03:42The camera never breaks if you're really doing the job, whether you are
03:45professional or a serious amateur.
03:47Bring back the goods. Again, I say, I repeat it, because that is what I must do today.
03:53No excuses! Just get the picture and make it good.
Collapse this transcript
The setup
00:02Douglas Kirkland> First of all I want Hannie to look wonderful, that's my
00:06first obligation, and the picture specifically that I'm going after is, and it's
00:10the most important one, which is the one we're doing first, is going to be almost
00:14like a studio picture.
00:15We're working here in her home, so I bring this seamless paper.
00:19We have a 9-foot wide, 3-meter wide white and we're putting that behind her,
00:24which would look like she was really in our studio, but of course we're here
00:27at her place.
00:28And so we're going to really do a very clean picture, which would be probably
00:33the picture the publication wants more than anything else.
00:36Beyond that and after that I hope to get maybe some pictures of her working.
00:42She said she might actually create something for us.
00:45I'd love to see her working. And then I like to look in very closely at number of
00:49her pieces possibly too.
00:50So all of these things are all the possibilities, but mainly the picture I
00:55must come away with, so we're doing it first, is this classic portrait of the
01:00artist with her work.
01:01We'll put the seamless against--once they're finished--put it up to the ceiling,
01:08because I want to be able to back up here and what we're going to do
01:13is get some glorious pieces specifically, and maybe move the table slightly
01:19this way too so we have more space behind the background, and Hannie will sit
01:24behind it and we can move out that way in terms of getting enough distance with
01:30the camera and we'll use a soft box, which will probably be about, could be
01:33about what Jeremy is. Or it will be here and I'll probably be
01:38shooting past it.
01:39Okay, now meter.
01:42Female Speaker> 8.
01:43Douglas Kirkland> 8, okay. I'm going to 8 and I'm going to a 15th, so set yourself
01:49to a 15th please.
01:57We are getting a nice effect.
01:59I mean you want to come in and look at it?
02:00Female Speaker> That's cool. Douglas Kirkland> I like the slight grayness of the background.
02:06Technically what I'm doing is I'm shooting in a way that might
02:08seem strange to you. I could be at f/22 if I wanted, but I'm not.
02:13I am shooting at f/8 and because the amount of light coming through the paper.
02:17It's doing part of our lighting for us. I weakened the modeling light here, which
02:23I can do, and I weakened it so I could shoot at-- I'm shooting at a 15th at 8 and the
02:30strobe is doing-- there again, you see exactly what's happened.
02:35So the daylight is coming through this paper a little and giving some of that
02:39illumination in the background.
02:40It's a question of working with what you find and being sensitive to it, but
02:45she's going to look wonderful and the bright colors look great. And now I will do one
02:50more time please.
02:53Female speaker> 8.
02:54Douglas Kirkland> Okay, thank you.
02:56Okay, Francoise, you can do some more moving for me because I'd like to see as
03:00many of these pieces as possible.
03:02I move them back because what's happening, Francoise, just so you understand,
03:08it's getting too big.
03:09I want to move them back closer to the background.
03:12Yeah, you're doing the right thing there, Miranda, and of yeah, yeah that's right.
03:17And this highest one, Miranda, see if you can move it camera right more.
03:22It's better already what you've just done. Okay good. It's excellent.
03:27This is building a picture.
03:28We've got wonderful pieces of art here and basically have the art and the
03:35artist and they're wonderful forms and you have to be a sensitive to this.
03:40We also have to create images that will fit shapes.
03:44And if you're shooting a cover you obviously have to it so it's vertical because
03:48covers are vertical 99 times out of 100 and they can have space to put type on.
03:54Now they also might like that for their lead picture. They might put her--
03:59the name of the story up there.
04:01So you're allowing space sometimes and so that's why we have large amounts of
04:05space like you see here available. And you have to feel good about the colors and
04:11the forms and shapes and this is very symbolic.
04:16These, I don't know what you call them, needles. That's very much involved in
04:21her work and if you look at the top of her pieces she has incorporated that
04:25in a masterful way.
04:27It's very exciting.
04:28I get a buzz on because I know we got a good picture going, and I want to
04:31get as much prepared right now as possible because when she comes in I'm going
04:36to have to work in a slightly different way.
04:39I won't make as many changes, at first at least. That's it.
Collapse this transcript
Environmental portrait
00:00Douglas Kirkland> Doing editorial work, you are coming in and almost asking a
00:05favor of people, because she is not being paid to do this. She is being sort of...
00:10It's a salute to her, and because she is a genius, an expert at what she does,
00:16a master if you will.
00:17The magazine wants to convey that, but we are a guest in their home here and they
00:25are very, very polite, nice people.
00:28We want to upset things as little as possible, as always.
00:34When we leave at the end of the day we want her to feel good and them to feel good,
00:38she and her husband.
00:40We brought a book for them, which I am going to sign.
00:43It's the book of my movie work, our movie work.
00:47Why have I worked for more than 50 years in the game? It's because I try to be
00:52sensitive to everything, including starting with Hanie herself.
00:57That who really is important.
00:59It all revolves around her and we must not do anything that extends any
01:06discomfort of any kind.
01:07I'm sure it's going to work. I feel good about this.
01:10All right! Now, this is good, this is good, this is good. Yes, yes, yes, yes,
01:14yes, wonderful! Great!
01:16I coming over right away to show you, because I know it's such a
01:20nice beginning.
01:21That's the second frame we took.
01:25That's good, okay, just a second.
01:29Okay, now turn again your shoulders, yes, yes, yes, yes, that's nice, then lean
01:35forward a little that way, yes. Beautiful, beautiful.
01:37Okay, yes, wonderful.
01:41I am just going to go down a little lower, excuse me.
01:47Good, wonderful!
01:49Great!
01:50Yes, it's pretty special.
01:53I am going to take my shoes off, if you don't mind.
01:54To be an artist like you who creates these. You know, you are the best
01:59of all worlds, because you create beauty but you are beautiful and it makes my
02:05job much easier.
02:11You're wonderful, okay. Yes, great, very good, yes, yes, yes.
02:17Sit up a little higher now.
02:21Now, can we raise that stool up please?
02:30Female Speaker> Do you want more? Douglas Kirkland> I like where it is.
02:32I like what you're doing.
02:32I like what you're doing very much, very, very much.
02:35Yes, wonderful, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, fantastic!
02:40Wow! You are good.
02:44I've got to show you this.
02:45I can't keep it to myself.
02:49You are good, you are very good.
02:58Yeah, I like what you're doing here, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes.
03:04A slight smile would be nice. Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!
03:08I am backing up a little again.
03:12What happens is when I back up, the purpose is I go to a longer lens and
03:16that makes you bigger.
03:17Sometimes when I come in I am emphasizing your work more. That's with the camera
03:23thatt's what I am doing.
03:24But I love your position you're in, yes.
03:26You've got it such delicate? You remind me of Renaissance painting.
03:30You do, you really do.
03:32Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. You have a very beautiful, classical look, wow!
03:37We will try something different here. Try the other hand maybe.
03:42Make yourself comfortable, you find your spot.
03:43Oh! I love that.
03:47I love it, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes.
03:54I've been doing this a long time, Hannie. You will see some pictures in those books but
03:58honestly I get the same buzz.
04:01I know it's a beautiful image being created as I did with Marilyn Monroe or any
04:04of the rest of them, yes, yes, yes.
04:08Leo!
04:09I am going to ask you a favor.
04:12Could you just walk in around behind the scene?
04:15I want to take a picture of two of you together for you. Just have to stand
04:19there, maybe get your heads fairly close together.
04:21Yeah, put your arm around her, yeah.
04:24Yeah, that's the idea, yes, yes, yes. This is for you.
04:31Okay, nice.
04:33Okay, thank you Leo!
04:34I wanted to get a few with you there.
04:35This is not for the magazine. It's for you.
04:41Is there any other thing you want to do?
04:42You can't think of anything. You've done it all.
04:44Okay, I think we have done this picture.
04:46If you said you didn't like something there, honestly if you saw something,
04:49I would change it. We could do more pictures.
04:50But if you are comfortable here, and I am very comfortable. See all these seams here,
04:56these are bleeding into the picture and I love this form of this piece.
05:00I love the colors.
05:01Female Speaker> Yeah I like that one. Close up.
05:03Douglas Kirkland> Yeah, that's really cool.
Collapse this transcript
Documentary coverage
00:00Douglas Kirkland> This is a working picture versus the other one which was a
00:02portrait of you with your work.
00:05And this time the difference is I am letting you leave and I am just following.
00:09I am watching and enjoying it very much.
00:11So I am an observer here.
00:13I was asking you to do things before. I don't want to now.
00:16Camera meter? Thank you.
00:19Okay, let's go meter reading sitting in there.
00:22Female Speaker> Do you want me to sit in or you want me to?
00:25Douglas Kirkland> What's that? Female Speaker> 11.
00:27Douglas Kirkland> Okay, now I am going to weaken this.
00:28I am shooting at 200 ISO at 5-6 and a half.
00:41Between 8 and 5-6.
00:43And the shutter speed is a 20th of a second.
00:46That may sound odd to you.
00:48Now I can handhold comfortably at a 20th. Especially with strobes. So the only
00:53place that's really getting the 20th is like the lights.
00:56And then why am I shooting at a 20th? Because I want the lights to look like
01:00normal room lights.
01:02So you're going to really up the strobe doing any overall illumination and they're
01:08shooting at a thousandth or whatever.
01:10This gives me a lot of flexibility for shooting.
01:12Female Speaker> You don't have to get that in...
01:15Douglas Kirkland> Whatever you think is right.
01:17Female Speaker> Where do you want me to sit?
01:20Douglas Kirkland> Where you would like to sit.
01:21Female Speaker> I will sit wherever.
01:23Douglas Kirkland> So I am watching her natural thing and I want her to -
01:27She will basically create the picture.
01:29If something was wrong I would say something.
01:30But basically this is Hannie's picture.
01:37Female Speaker> Is the piece behind you yours?
01:40Douglas Kirkland> On the wall? Oh, it's fantastic!
01:43It's getting better.
01:44Female Speaker> Unfortunately, we can't afford anybody else's artwork.
01:46So it's all we have around the house.
02:27Douglas Kirkland> It's beautiful to watch somebody do something they do well and
02:33caringly and that's what I feel..
02:40You become impatient if it goes too slowly?
02:41Female Speaker> Yeah, I get from a lot of people when I do shows,
02:45when they see it they will say, "Oh. you must be so patient" and I think it's completely the opposite.
02:51Douglas Kirkland> You want to get on with it?
02:52Female Speaker> I am so impatient that I have to be like doing something.
02:56I can't just sit here like watching TV or anything.
02:59I have to be working and making something. So I think it's...
03:03Douglas Kirkland> Well, you certainly use your time well.
03:07Now I could probably photograph you doing this all afternoon but I feel
03:12photographically I have what I need.
03:14But so I am watching the detail as you work.
03:19Female Speaker> Oh, that's nice.
03:20Douglas Kirkland> Then I have some here, seeing what you're working with
03:24as well which I think is quite nice.
03:26Female Speaker> Yeah, that's nice, the fingers working.
03:30Douglas Kirkland> Coming in the detail here, your hands.
03:34And it's your backlight, backside light, from as far back in the corners.
03:38Let me walk over there.
03:42Curious what it looks like, Charamy.
03:44Shine it through this sheet from the opposite side. Let's see what happens.
03:50Female Speaker> It's not going to be nice for awhile but..
03:53Douglas Kirkland> Whatever you do, Hannie, will be nice for me.
03:57You can do whatever you want.
04:05You're great! I love everything you are doing. I love the way you look.
04:09I love the way you're working.
04:11I feel like I am really watching the process.
04:31It's a very intimate work as you're-- It's the touch.
04:34Do you feel a bit like that?
04:38Not too many types of work can you really handle something like you do.
04:42Female Speaker> It's magical, how it is just a clump.
04:43Douglas Kirkland> Well, yeah exactly.
04:46Douglas Kirkland> You give birth to something, a new form. Female Speaker> Yeah.
04:53Douglas Kirkland> I don't want to be disappointing but I think unless there is
04:55something I don't know about, that I probably photographed this.
04:59My obligation basically was to do the first picture we did.
05:03But having the opportunity to be near you and watching you work is something
05:07that I just couldn't walk away from.
05:08That's all they asked me to do.
05:10Is get that one great picture.
05:11But I get inspired by being around inspiring people.
05:15People who are creative. Creative.
05:17Truly creative people. And you've made something. Essentially you've taken
05:20something and given birth to it.
05:21You've made something out of nothing.
05:22And that's very inspiring and I love just to watch it.
05:26And what I am seeing with the camera is I am seeing first you and the essence of
05:30everything here moving and doing and I've become very sensitive to your atmosphere.
05:35And what I am doing with the camera is I am seeing your forms, the forms, and
05:39even I love watching your hands close as they touch. But at the same time in my
05:44photograph I want to see the overall forms.
05:47I am doing two things in it. But again it's you.
05:51This is your day, not mine.
05:52I am just here recording it.
Collapse this transcript
Reviewing the lighting
00:00Douglas Kirkland> Here is the situation. I went into Hannie's house and her work
00:04area and I realized that I had to make a picture on the level of-- We had to
00:10make her look like a Hollywood star because that's what the magazine said they
00:13wanted most ideally.
00:14They wanted her not only to look like a star, but to feel it good.
00:17So I was going to do everything I could to make that happen.
00:20First thing I had to do was have the lighting right, however, and it
00:23wasn't ideal.
00:24And what happened was there was a window in front of the table where she worked
00:28and I said let's put a white seamless up there, and there was quite a bit of
00:31light coming through it and I had the choice of maybe putting something over the
00:34window to stop the light but I said no, let's use what's there.
00:38Let's let that light come from the back from, through her, and but what I
00:42realized is all we have is the silhouette there. That's fine, but you've to
00:46do something.
00:47So this is where the strobe comes in.
00:48Bring the soft box on the front. We switched it on at maximum and what happens?
00:54We have too much light and suddenly you're not getting the effect
00:57from the outside because it was a rather dark day and there wasn't a lot of
01:00light coming through it.
01:01So what we did was we cut down the power of the strobe and so it balanced, and
01:08when it was balanced, then we were able to start making pictures frankly.
01:14I did a number of things here.
01:16I had to cut down the shutter speed in order to get the background.
01:21I was shooting it only at 20th of a second. That may sound alarming to you,
01:24but frankly it's not as a 20th as you might think of it, because the front if
01:29you will remember is all lit by the strobe light, which is going at a 1000th or faster.
01:34This is the only area that's illuminated by the 20th and I hold the camera quite
01:38steady, and I am at f/9, at 100 ISO.
01:42But that was fine at this point.
01:44But notice the lighting is a little flat and dull.
01:47So what I did then was raised the light and put it on an angle so I have more
01:53sculpturing and more form.
01:55This is a much more desirable kind of light and in addition to that,
02:00I pulled the table further from the background to let it go just a little gray
02:04which I like very much.
02:06But I did a couple of other things.
02:07You'll notice I am still on a 20th of a second, because I want this
02:10background to show.
02:12It's slightly grayer because I've pulled the table away from the background,
02:16and now I am down to f/16.
02:18Why would I want to go to f/16? Because I want what we call depth of field or
02:23focus all clear everywhere and I was able to do that by one very elementary
02:28thing that we can do with digital photography today very easily.
02:32I changed the ISO from 100 to 400.
02:35That gave me two stops smaller and all this clarity.
02:39And it's all the devices we have available to us and again with digital it's
02:44wonderful because you can experiment and try.
02:46I urge you to do that because you will make new discoveries and you too will
02:51keep finding your way and making your studio wherever you're working.
Collapse this transcript
Environmental portrait critique
00:00Douglas Kirkland> Okay, now I knew the lighting was right. We had that wired.
00:05The next thing that I had to think about as a photographer on this editorial
00:09assignment, as I would on any, is working with Hannie who is not accustomed of
00:14being in front of the camera everyday.
00:15She is not a pro and she is what we call in the business "real people." She is a
00:19very much a real person.
00:21In any case that requires her feeling confident, feeling good, and certain of
00:26what she is doing and that's my job as a photographer at this point, or it will
00:29be yours if you're shooting.
00:30Let's take a look.
00:31So what I did is quickly took a few images, just to warm things up.
00:37She felt the flash go off and she felt the environment but I did everything just to
00:42show her how great she was.
00:43I mean I compared her with my movie stars, which for me at that moment she was
00:49the most important person in my world and she has to feel that.
00:52Now, at certain point, I wanted her to relax a little, so I suggested that she
00:58lean on her hand just to give her something to do.
01:00It's a very simple gesture, and make sure that she doesn't push too hard, distort
01:04her face or anything like that.
01:06She did it beautifully.
01:07And I let her know I was pleased and it was working well.
01:10But the shoot went on. We kept going and I saw her after a certain point, she slouched.
01:15And you know what it is? You as a photographer have to see that and
01:20you have to realize it's happened in your mind, but don't say to them, "Hey!
01:24You are slouching! Get up!"
01:26No, that's not the way.
01:27You say, "You look wonderful but I think you're just a little lower
01:31You can look even more beautiful if you will just stretch up and you
01:35will look statuesque."
01:37"You will look beautiful" and here's what happens. She feels beautiful and she
01:40is more beautiful.
01:41That's a great part of it.
01:43The psychology of shooting and frankly it's three-quarters of what I do,
01:49because they have to feel good.
01:50And at a certain point I was aware of her husband Leo in the back of the room
01:54watching everything and the psychology is that he has to feel okay too, because if
02:01he feels good she will feel good. And so I asked him to come on in and I took
02:07this picture of him.
02:08I asked him to first put arm around her and then give her a kiss.
02:12And that's it and we have sent a print of that to them and they love it of course.
02:16And I am glad to do that.
02:18I love to work with people, and it's all part of the process.
02:21She glowed as you can see here. And then we went on to this picture, which
02:25really was her final image, the one that the editors chose and I like it very, very much.
02:30A couple of little things I want to show you.
02:33As she leaned, and they decided to use one of the leaning pictures, she leaned
02:37just a little too hard.
02:38I saw it at the time in little camera but I would not stop the positive process
02:44that was going on, because I knew it was a very easy fix for me later.
02:47So I want to quickly show you. Also there were couple lines here because of
02:51the position, but overall, she was glorious and I wanted to get that in my
02:56camera and it was a very easy fix, just to fix these things.
03:00You see I have fixed that. Very simple in Photoshop and this was the picture that
03:05became the lead in the story, although I did many many others.
03:08I did a lot of documentation, which helped fill the story out.
03:11This was the lead picture but in documentary work or editorial work we do
03:16much more, because as I have told you earlier we are telling a story through our images.
Collapse this transcript
Documentary coverage critique
00:00Douglas Kirkland> You have seen my process in making an editorial portrait, but
00:04there's so much more required in an editorial story such as we're telling here.
00:09You have got to tell how it happens, because you're giving information in
00:13your pictures.
00:14So let me take you through a process.
00:16Here is Hannie working and actually stitching these needles under the edge of
00:23her work. Part of her process.
00:25It's tremendously exciting to watch her.
00:27But are there different ways you could look at this?
00:29I made some close-ups, yes!
00:31But I thought it was more interesting to see the environment she was in,
00:35because she works on her sofa in her living room, very simple.
00:39I got up a box that I had there with a wide-angle lens, and did the best I could
00:44to frame it and get what I felt was right.
00:47Very simple lighting. I just have two strobes going off the ceiling, because
00:50I wanted it all to look very natural, not like it was setup or too overly dramatic.
00:57So I was able to get this image, but ultimately I felt that it should be
01:01tighter because I want to have always a great sense of design.
01:04So with some Photoshop simple work I created this.
01:09This is the final image I gave them.
01:11I took that cushion away.
01:13I should have taken it away myself at the time of shooting, but I didn't.
01:16We're not all perfect.
01:17But what we have here now is everything is symmetrical.
01:23This is where photography gets exciting for me.
01:27The elements that she's working with, the pine needles that she stitches into
01:32her pieces, and then this is just a carpet at the side.
01:35But again it's all very clean and I made the top so you didn't see the
01:39white wall above it.
01:41Not a lot of Photoshop work, but it's how I see and how I feel.
01:45And truthfully, for me, it's an extension of my photography and who I am as
01:49a photographer.
01:50But ultimately, others don't always choose the one that you like the most.
01:55They needed a vertical.
01:56So here is the picture we ultimately used, and that is part of the process.
02:01So in addition to my favorite horizontal, which you just saw our landscape,
02:05I took some vertically or, if you want to call it, in portrait node.
02:11There it is!
02:12Again, the same elements, and she's working.
02:15I'm not looking to see her face here. I'm looking to see her art being created,
02:20and that to me again is the process.
02:23It's all part of telling a story and there's so much more.
02:27You have to think of yourself as a storyteller, not just taking a lead,
02:32wonderful lead picture.
02:33So much more.
Collapse this transcript
Reviewing an editorial layout
00:00Douglas Kirkland> I've been doing editorial work for a long time.
00:03In fact it's more than 50 years, if you can believe that.
00:06And I worked at Life and Look, and many other publications, Holiday, you name it.
00:10A long string of publications.
00:12It's not new to me, doing this work, but what is interesting is to see how
00:16your material is used.
00:17We're all are gratified as a rule when we see the layouts come.
00:21I mean I'm delighted to see this opening spread.
00:24They call it a spread; sometimes they called it double truck. It goes across two
00:27pages and it's interesting to observe how your open space is used here at the
00:32top to put a title in.
00:34And since it's two pages, if you're designing pages and I have done page design as well,
00:39you have to make sure that what we call the gutter, a separation between the
00:43two pages, does not go through the middle of the lady's face.
00:46So here it's coming here in a area that won't bother you to see it and this
00:51is all part of the artwork of putting spreads, as we call them, together for a publication.
00:57So here's the second spread in the layout and again editorial work is about
01:03talking and telling and showing, and these wonderful images of Hannie's work are here.
01:10They were preexisting images.
01:11I was unable to photograph them because she's very much in demand and they've
01:15already been sold and they are long gone, but I would show her working.
01:21So there is a logical contrast here or combination I should call it, better than contrast,
01:25with everything together with text with explanation in the center.
01:29Very comfortable for a reader to look at.
01:32I want to just take you inside in my mind as I took this picture for a second, if I may.
01:37As I shot I, I would question always can I get vertical or horizontal and I did
01:44some very close pictures of her like just like that with just her hands because
01:48it's wonderful to watch her hands craft.
01:50That is tremendously exciting, because you are seeing creation, really creativity
01:55at least at its best.
01:57And after a certain point a little bell goes off my head. I'd say "I think I've
02:02got this" but then somebody says before you quit, Kirkland, is there something else
02:06you can do to make it even better? And frankly in my peripheral vision I saw
02:11this finished piece she had here.
02:13And so I just gently pushed it over into the frame and that ended up being the
02:17winner, because it gives you so much more information.
02:20It's again the overall spread that's telling a story, giving information,
02:24and is giving satisfaction to people who know this world, care about it, and
02:29this is American Craft Magazine. Always keep that in mind.
02:32Let's look at the final spread in the story.
02:34Again, used the picture of the existing material and I have this
02:40picture of Hannie at work.
02:42For me, I love the fact that she had this color of sweater. It helped. She showed us
02:46a couple of different possibilities but this one seemed right to me, especially
02:50with the blue jeans and the color of the table here.
02:53And then we have the all the elements of that she was working with and you
02:57see her stitching and interestingly, I said to her, do you enjoy this?
03:01She said, well this is okay, but my favorite part is really throwing because I
03:05become impatient when I'm doing the stitching, and I do it very rapidly.
03:09But still she looks wonderful and it's part of the magic she creates.
03:13And this is all for me part of telling a story with my pictures and the
03:17pictures that we take for an editorial layout.
03:21I hope you've enjoyed this portion of On Photography and Editorial Photography.
Collapse this transcript
About the Author
Meet Douglas Kirkland
00:06I grew up in a small town in Canada.
00:08Only 7000 people.
00:11The first picture I ever took was taken with a box camera, a Brownie box camera,
00:16and I remember pushing it into my chest, 10 years of age at the time, and
00:20pushing that device down and it went clunk.
00:24I got the buzz right then and it's never stopped since.
00:27Speed Graphic was the camera of the time and if you had this in your hand as a
00:34young man, I have to tell you, you really felt you were hot.
00:38Turn this way, that way.
00:40I mean, that was a charge of like nothing else.
00:45I got a call from Look magazine.
00:49I was basically hired to shoot fashion and I was the new generation.
00:54I was in my mid 20s.
00:56The year was 1960.
00:58And then my boss in New York called me and he said, "We'd like you to go to Las Vegas
01:03with our movie editor because Elizabeth Taylor, who hasn't been
01:06photographed or had a story done on her in about 2 or 3 years now, has said
01:11she'll give us an interview."
01:12I sat quietly in the back of the room as the journalists interviewed her and
01:19I went up to her at the end and I took her hand and said, "Elizabeth, I'm new with
01:25this magazine," looking her straight in the eye just like I am you.
01:30"Could you imagine what it would mean to me if you'd give me an opportunity
01:34to photograph you?"
01:35I was holding her hand still. Pause.
01:37She probably thought she was never going to be released.
01:42And then she said, "Okay... Come tomorrow night at 8:30."
01:47To make a long story short, I did.
01:50And I got pictures that ended up really starting my career
01:54photographing celebrities.
01:56I had the cover of Look magazine, my first cover, and from then it was like an
02:01explosion of possibilities.
02:04This camera is the one that I actually used to photograph Marilyn Monroe, this
02:08very camera, this 500C.
02:11We went to visit her in her Hollywood home.
02:14It was this camera, myself, Marilyn.
02:17A wonderful photo session that went on for about three or four hours.
02:21And I feel a great attachment to this.
02:25I've been very careful to hold onto my images.
02:29Ever since I was always able to keep my pictures, so that's why I have all these books.
02:3315 in all at the moment I believe.
02:36I'm best known for my work around entertainment and these are work from the movies.
02:41You know they're different times, different places.
02:45I've worked on 160 films in all by our last count.
02:50For me, one the most significant and important areas of working with people is
02:55to know your subject, feel sympathetic toward them.
02:59You have to feel that I care about you, and I do.
03:03Boy do I ever!
03:04Because I know that what you have in you is going to make a great image.
03:09And honestly, you can have any lens in the world or any type of camera, but if
03:13you do not have a subject who is connecting with you, your chances are
03:17substantially reduced of getting a good image.
03:22I learned from a lot of different sources and resources certainly, in
03:27photography in the early days and later on with computers.
03:30I asked a lot of people a lot of questions.
03:33And I had a lot of wonderful people help me.
03:35And frankly, years ago, somebody gave me a lesson I've really held onto and
03:40I feel this this way very strongly.
03:43Do the same for somebody else.
03:47Wen you receive something good just pass it along.
03:50And I hope that you get out of this something special.
03:53And I'm trying to pass it along to you.
03:55I care about it.
03:56I hope you do.
Collapse this transcript


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