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In this course, Rich Harrington and Abba Shapiro give beginning photographers a brisk look at using strobe lights in a studio setting—lessons that easily translate to the field and locations, inside and out. Learn why shooting with strobes and continuous lighting makes such a big impact on your photographs, and how to buy a good, affordable starter kit. Rich and Abba also show how to set your gear up, trigger your lights, and make modifications with accessories like reflectors, umbrellas, and soft boxes. Finally, learn how to make the most of what you have in a series of lighting challenges.
Well, up until now we've kind of been eyeballing the shot seeing if it's bright enough or if it's too dark, but that's not the best way to shoot. As a matter of fact, there are some great in camera options that can help you make sure that your image isn't too dark. Or too bright, or in other words properly exposed. So the first thing I'm going to do is quickly take another picture of Valerie. And when I look at the playback I want to look at the histogram. Now I can get to the histogram on my camera by just pressing the info button a couple of times.
You may need to check your manual to see how to enable it on playback. So the nice thing about a histogram, and you don't have to be a rocket scientist to be able to read one. Is the left side of the image shows me all the dark pixels and the right side of the image shows me all the bright pixels. Now if I look at this histogram I can tell myself, yeah it's a little bit dark. I know there's a lot of black elements in here. There is the black background, there's the black dress, Valerie has black hair so I'm definitely going to see some more areas on the darker side, but I think I can open this up a little bit.
I can shoot to the right, overexpose it or open up the exposure and I'm using this as a reference. So to do that, I'm simply going to open up my aperture instead of messing with all the lights. So I'm bringing it down to 4.5. And you'll notice the histogram in this shot is more to the right. There is more light falling on to Valerie's face. And I can really control this in the post to make it exactly the luminance levels and the skin tone that I want. But I have a lot more material to work with.
There's another feature that I like to use, and a lot of people refer to this as the annoying blinkies or that black flashing thing. And they don't know how it got turned on, and they don't know how to turn it off. Well, this is actually very useful because what it can do is show you if parts of the image are overexposed. And if they're overexposed, you've lost the detail in that image, which most of the time you can never recover. So I'm going to switch over to my Menu settings, and it's called Highlight alert. And I'm going to simply select it, enable it, and now when we go back and we take a picture the good thing is no blinkies, which means it's properly exposed, but let's turn it up a little bit.
Rich, could you do me a favor? And we're going to take the, the octagon light that you had turned down earlier and crank that all the way up to ten. >> At ten. >> Okay. So I'm going to go ahead and take this picture. And now we have two types of feedback. Not only is my histogram pushed all the way to the right but you'll notice the areas that are over-exposed have that black, flashing part of the image. Now this is to the extreme. Now let's change the power output of the light. We're going to slowly dial it down. Just until those little blinkies go away.
So Rich, let's try splitting the difference. We went from say five to ten. What would seven, seven and a half look like? >> There you go. >> Pretty good, no blinkies. If I wanted to bring up the luminance, I could keep tweaking it and turning it up just until I start seeing those black flashes and turn it down a little bit. We'll give it one more shot, Rich. So, maybe eight and a half? >> 8.5. >> Now, even with that adjustment, it's still is a little bit overexposed.
I can see that from my histogram. I have a spike on the far right, and I have parts of the image that are blinking black. So, I know that it's not exactly what I want, but these are two great features that I always use to make sure that my picture is properly exposed in camera.
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