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Using flags to restrict the light

From: Up and Running with Studio Strobes

Video: Using flags to restrict the light

One of the easiest tools to use Okay, Valarie. Three, two, one.

Using flags to restrict the light

One of the easiest tools to use when controlling light is something called a flag, and it allows you to block light so it doesn't fall into areas you don't want. Now, Rich, you have a, a flag set up there, and what really is a flag? It sounds complicated. >> No it's super easy. I mean, all it is in this case is fabric that's pretty much completely opaque. It's usually black, a lot like a blackout curtain that you might have if you worked nights and you wanted to sleep in the day, or you've seen these sometimes in hotel rooms to cut down on light pollution. If you've ever stayed, like, say, in Las Vegas, a lot of hotels will have' em.

It just really blocks out the light. And this particular one just happens to be an easy frame. And up top here, we used a piece of grip equipment just called a knuckle that attaches to just a normal lighting stand. And so it's really easy to put that in there. If I needed to, I could adjust this. I could angle it. In this case, it's going to be really simple. You were seeming to be getting a little spill on your backdrop, right? >> Yeah, as a matter of fact, the way we set up the lights, it lit Valerie very nicely, but I'm getting a little bit of overflow. Let me take a shot so they can see exactly what that overflow looks like, and then Rich is going to fix it for me.

Okay, Valarie. Three, two, one. And her lighting is great, but I'm losing that rich black on the back wall. >> All right, so why don't I walk this in. Abi, you'll have to let me know if I'm out of your shot. >> You're in my shot a little bit. We could mask it out, but let's see if we can block it by bringing it a little bit closer to the light, maybe. >> Go ahead, Alan. >> Okay. And as you see, with the flag in place, I still keep a nice, rich, black background, yet I have all the power of both my key and my fill light.

And it may seem like I have a lot of favorite modifiers, because I do. But flags are absolutely awesome because I can block light when I don't want it to hit a certain subject. And you can see how easy it was to fix a problem in about 10 to 15 seconds.

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This video is part of

Image for Up and Running with Studio Strobes
Up and Running with Studio Strobes

62 video lessons · 5388 viewers

Richard Harrington and Abba Shapiro
Author

 
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  1. 4m 6s
    1. Welcome
      2m 4s
    2. What you should know to get the most from this course
      2m 2s
  2. 6m 26s
    1. Shooting with strobes
      1m 23s
    2. Strobe lighting allows you to shoot with an increased depth of field
      58s
    3. Strobe lighting has faster recharge times than flashes
      1m 39s
    4. Strobe lighting is good at freezing action
      48s
    5. Strobe lighting offers many modifiers to shape light
      1m 38s
  3. 7m 34s
    1. Continuous lighting is easier for a beginner to understand
      1m 47s
    2. Continuous lighting makes it easier to achieve soft-light looks
      2m 57s
    3. Continuous lighting is useful if mixing video into the shoot
      2m 50s
  4. 20m 47s
    1. Buying piecemeal vs. buying a kit
      2m 29s
    2. Criteria for selecting lights
      5m 57s
    3. How many lights do you need?
      3m 0s
    4. How much power do you need
      5m 37s
    5. Mixing brands
      3m 44s
  5. 16m 40s
    1. Monolights and flash heads
      2m 22s
    2. Reflectors and diffusers
      3m 54s
    3. Lighting stands and booms
      3m 49s
    4. Power pack or power supplies
      4m 29s
    5. Sync cable
      2m 6s
  6. 19m 7s
    1. Handling the lamp or bulb
      2m 52s
    2. The role of the modeling light
      4m 36s
    3. Keeping lights cool
      1m 46s
    4. The master and slave relationship for lighting
      4m 5s
    5. Essential controls
      5m 48s
  7. 14m 59s
    1. Connecting the sync cable
      3m 16s
    2. Using a wireless transmitter
      7m 7s
    3. Slaving with a speedlight
      4m 36s
  8. 34m 6s
    1. Setting shutter sync speed
      4m 56s
    2. Setting an initial aperture and ISO
      2m 28s
    3. Controlling power output
      3m 1s
    4. Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)
      2m 8s
    5. Using a light meter in camera
      4m 4s
    6. Using an external light meter
      1m 45s
    7. Test shooting with one light at a time
      2m 5s
    8. Putting it all together
      1m 39s
    9. Controlling exposure with power or aperture
      1m 6s
    10. Refining exposure with ISO
      1m 39s
    11. Tethering to a laptop
      5m 22s
    12. Checking the shots on a computer
      3m 53s
  9. 31m 38s
    1. Modifying strobe lights
      1m 9s
    2. Bouncing the light with a reflector
      4m 26s
    3. Bouncing the light with a bounce card
      1m 12s
    4. Shaping the light with a beauty dish
      3m 5s
    5. Diffusing the light with an umbrella
      5m 50s
    6. Diffusing the light with a softbox
      4m 49s
    7. Focusing the light with a snoot
      6m 58s
    8. Modeling the light with grids and honeycombs
      2m 2s
    9. Using flags to restrict the light
      2m 7s
  10. 14m 50s
    1. Three-light setup
      6m 52s
    2. Three-light dramatic portrait
      4m 59s
    3. Four-light setup
      2m 59s
  11. 46m 56s
    1. Take the challenge
      55s
    2. Solution
      29s
    3. Portrait challenge 1
      8m 6s
    4. Portrait challenge 2
      3m 10s
    5. Portrait challenge 3
      12m 55s
    6. Portrait challenge 4
      3m 19s
    7. Portrait challenge 5
      4m 28s
    8. Portrait challenge 6
      9m 5s
    9. Portrait challenge 7
      4m 29s
  12. 39s
    1. Next steps
      39s

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