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Connecting a computer to your DSLR camera opens up a brand-new world of opportunities in image making. You can gain greater control over your in-camera adjustments and get a more accurate picture of your lighting and setup. In this course, Rich Harrington introduces the tethered shooting workflow and shows how to connect your camera to a computer, an external monitor, and even an iPad or mobile device. He'll review the shooting environment, building the tethered station, software solutions for tethering, and wireless shooting with a CamRanger or GoPro camera. These techniques work well both in the studio and in the field, so you'll be prepared for all tethered shooting scenarios.
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Lets take a look at another popular application that sort of an all around tool, that's Apple Aperture. Now of course it only runs on a Mac, and I actually switched out my camera body from the D600 to my D7000 because Aperture tends to take a little bit longer to often update their camera profiles. But that's okay, it's still working, and for purposes of showing you tethering, you're going to see that this is all going to come together. But this does point out an important lesson. Make sure that as you're looking at cameras and software combinations, as well as operating systems, that all of the pieces are properly supported.
You might find that just because your camera and files work with one type of equipment, doesn't mean that it's going to work throughout the entire pipeline. So, changing one part could be the difference between shooting and not shooting. Alright, I've got Aperture launched. Let's go ahead and switch over and connect the camera. We've connected it here with the tether cable, into the computer itself. I've launched Apple Aperture. At this point, I'll just choose File> Tether> Start New Session. You now choose where you want to store the projects. You can make a Aperture library and store them in the library, or you can actually choose a dedicated folder, which is what I've done here on my hard drive.
I've made a folder and selected it. You can now give it a version name, or a custom name. I'm going to go ahead and add a custom name with index. There we go. Have it update the actual file names as well, and let's add some metadata. And I could add some information about me as a creator. There we go. Click OK to store that, and you see the fields have been added. At this point, you can also choose a second location, if you want to shoot to two drives, which is not a bad idea.
And you'll notice that you can apply some basic effects, just like we saw over in Lightroom. When ready, I click Start Session. And you see it identifies the camera that's connected, as well as a destination. I can now capture, and it fires off the shot. In this case, it's bringing in both shots, and that's because I'm shooting RAW, plus JPEG. If I come over to the camera here, I can adjust my quality settings. And I flip back to just plain RAW. There we go. And now when I capture, you'll see that just one file comes in. Much like Lightroom and the other applications we're looking at, you can now actually dig into the image and start to make changes, which is one of major benefits of being right here, in the application.
I could double-click on that image to open it up, and this allows me to see the focus points. If I want to check focus, I could use the loop here, and it makes it really easy to see how I'm doing. It's looking pretty good, but I want to double check my focus here, it's just a tad soft. Let's load it in, and that's looking better. Alright, let's close the loop, and start to make some adjustments. Note, I could re-white balance if needed, I could adjust the overall exposure, and do some recovery on the mids.
I could add definition, helps pop some of those shadows with a little bit of vibrancy to bring out the colors. And I can even lift those shadows a little bit, to get better separation where it's getting a little muddy in the dark green leaves. Here we go. Alright. Let's turn the vignette off, and take a look at that. Let's hide the focus points. Checking it at 100%, focus looks good. We'll press F for a full screen view. You can really see the image, and of course you can still zoom in or zoom out with Cmd + Plus or Minus if you want to take a look around.
I like the little heads up navigator there to let me know where I am in the photo, as I explore. So you see here, pretty straight forward. The functionality between Lightroom and Aperture is virtually identical. Just make sure that the camera you want to use is fully supported by the application. But once you're in, whether your a Lightroom user, or an Aperture user, it's pretty much the same sort of work flow. You get basic controls to basically trigger the shot, but then you're immediately in your post-production environment. But, when it comes to tethering, there are more options and dedicated software packages that add additional controls. We'll take a look at those next.
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