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In this course, Rich Harrington and Abba Shapiro give beginning photographers a brisk look at using strobe lights in a studio setting—lessons that easily translate to the field and locations, inside and out. Learn why shooting with strobes and continuous lighting makes such a big impact on your photographs, and how to buy a good, affordable starter kit. Rich and Abba also show how to set your gear up, trigger your lights, and make modifications with accessories like reflectors, umbrellas, and soft boxes. Finally, learn how to make the most of what you have in a series of lighting challenges.
>> You've already learned that you can use a dedicated cable, or perhaps a remote trigger, but a lot of folks don't realize that they could already use the gear they own. And in this case, you're going to use your speed light, right? >> Absolutely. I can use the flash from my speed light to trigger the slave units here, as long as the room's not too bright, or that I'm not outside. And the sun is overpowering my flash. >> But there is a setting that you want to change. >> That's right. It's almost perfect, but there is a little problem in that all of these new cameras have these special settings which is E-TTL on a CAnon and TTL on a Nikon.
>> Now we're going to step in here and show you how to do this on a Canon camera as well as a Nikon. Cameras will vary slightly, from one camera version to another, but usually it's in a similar place within the menus and once you find it, you'll know where it's at. I do encourage you to consider adding this to your quick menu or your custom menu so you can easily access this to turn it off and on. When you're shooting with strobes, you're going to want to go ahead and turn it off. When you're doing your normal shooting, if you want the most control from your flash, you'll likely leave it on. So Abba, where are we here? >> Well, I just went over to External Speedlite control and I'm going to step inside here.
And I'm going to scroll down to my flash function settings. And by default, these cameras like to be on that E-TTL mode that I talked about. I don't want that as my default. I'm going to go ahead and select that, and you see there's a bunch of different options, and I'm just going to step over to the manual mode. Choose manual flash, and now, I don't have that pre-flash that's going to set off my lights too early. >> Okay, you show me that it works? >> Sure. >> Now I think it's pretty amazing. This camera is pointing this way with the flash going out that way. But it's still sensitive enough to trigger the light back here.
So this is really a sort of, a 360 sensor. It picks up quite a bit. >> Absolutely, it's picking up all of the bounced light throughout the room. And it still is trigger the, at least one flash, and of course, that would go ahead and trigger any other flashes in the area. >> Great, well hand me that HDMI cable back, and let's take a look at this. Now, Abba showed you using a speed light, easy enough. Very similar, I'll go down to my bracketing and flash control. And you see that in this case I'm just going to use the built in flash which is fine. I'll pop that up. And if we go in there we have the ability to choose if we want to use it or in a manual mode or I'm just going to basically use it in a commander mode which is the same idea.
And I could adjust that, which is fine. Or if we did have a speed light hooked up, you would see that there are actually additional controls in here. And you can go in with your flash controls and set it. It'll depend upon what's attached. Or perhaps you have to step into the actual menu for the flash itself. It will vary by manufacturer but just look for either the E-TTL or ITTL TTL. Look to that and get to the manual. >> Now one thing to keep in mind is when you're in manual mode and I think we saw it earlier. >> Yeah. >> Is that you can how bright that flash is.
>> Yeah. >> And if you have it at full, that flash is going to effect the look of your scene in addition to your strobes. So sometimes you may want to turn that all the way down to say 130 second and that way it's a very minimal effect on the overall look of your scene. >> And this actually went all the way down to 128 for the built in flash, so when I trigger that you know, it's putting that off and it's going to go ahead and do the trigger. Now make sure I'm not blocking. And in this case, not as powerful or bouncing as much light from there. But if I just take that off and let's say, I was shooting in the same general direction, it is triggering that.
So if we were shooting our subject, here we go. It is going ahead and invoking that. And that's fine, built-in flash, pop-up flash. Everyone says, oh that's terrible, never use it. Well. It works great for this, and you've got that build in. Or there. Or you have one more idea, like. >> This is. >> It's so cute. >> This is good. This is, this a little, almost like a point and shoot. It, it, it is an interchangeable lens, but it probably has one of the smallest flashes I've ever seen. And even using this, I can simply power it on. And literally, every time I take a picture.
I can cause it to pop the big flash. Now you do want to be in manual mode for your aperture and shutter speed settings. And we'll get into that a little bit later. But even a pocket camera can trigger your a strobe lights. >> Yeah, so just make sure you've got something that's going to invoke that whether that be, be the dedicated speed light, built in pop-up flash, or a small point-shoot camera. Whatever you are using is usually sensitive enough to get you the results you need.
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