Up and Running with Studio Strobes
Illustration by

Up and Running with Studio Strobes

with Richard Harrington and Abba Shapiro

Video: Slaving with a speedlight

>> You've already learned that you can use And by default, >> Now I think it's pretty amazing.
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  1. 4m 6s
    1. Welcome
      2m 4s
    2. What you should know to get the most from this course
      2m 2s
  2. 6m 26s
    1. Shooting with strobes
      1m 23s
    2. Strobe lighting allows you to shoot with an increased depth of field
    3. Strobe lighting has faster recharge times than flashes
      1m 39s
    4. Strobe lighting is good at freezing action
    5. Strobe lighting offers many modifiers to shape light
      1m 38s
  3. 7m 34s
    1. Continuous lighting is easier for a beginner to understand
      1m 47s
    2. Continuous lighting makes it easier to achieve soft-light looks
      2m 57s
    3. Continuous lighting is useful if mixing video into the shoot
      2m 50s
  4. 20m 47s
    1. Buying piecemeal vs. buying a kit
      2m 29s
    2. Criteria for selecting lights
      5m 57s
    3. How many lights do you need?
      3m 0s
    4. How much power do you need
      5m 37s
    5. Mixing brands
      3m 44s
  5. 16m 40s
    1. Monolights and flash heads
      2m 22s
    2. Reflectors and diffusers
      3m 54s
    3. Lighting stands and booms
      3m 49s
    4. Power pack or power supplies
      4m 29s
    5. Sync cable
      2m 6s
  6. 19m 7s
    1. Handling the lamp or bulb
      2m 52s
    2. The role of the modeling light
      4m 36s
    3. Keeping lights cool
      1m 46s
    4. The master and slave relationship for lighting
      4m 5s
    5. Essential controls
      5m 48s
  7. 14m 59s
    1. Connecting the sync cable
      3m 16s
    2. Using a wireless transmitter
      7m 7s
    3. Slaving with a speedlight
      4m 36s
  8. 34m 6s
    1. Setting shutter sync speed
      4m 56s
    2. Setting an initial aperture and ISO
      2m 28s
    3. Controlling power output
      3m 1s
    4. Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)
      2m 8s
    5. Using a light meter in camera
      4m 4s
    6. Using an external light meter
      1m 45s
    7. Test shooting with one light at a time
      2m 5s
    8. Putting it all together
      1m 39s
    9. Controlling exposure with power or aperture
      1m 6s
    10. Refining exposure with ISO
      1m 39s
    11. Tethering to a laptop
      5m 22s
    12. Checking the shots on a computer
      3m 53s
  9. 31m 38s
    1. Modifying strobe lights
      1m 9s
    2. Bouncing the light with a reflector
      4m 26s
    3. Bouncing the light with a bounce card
      1m 12s
    4. Shaping the light with a beauty dish
      3m 5s
    5. Diffusing the light with an umbrella
      5m 50s
    6. Diffusing the light with a softbox
      4m 49s
    7. Focusing the light with a snoot
      6m 58s
    8. Modeling the light with grids and honeycombs
      2m 2s
    9. Using flags to restrict the light
      2m 7s
  10. 14m 50s
    1. Three-light setup
      6m 52s
    2. Three-light dramatic portrait
      4m 59s
    3. Four-light setup
      2m 59s
  11. 46m 56s
    1. Take the challenge
    2. Solution
    3. Portrait challenge 1
      8m 6s
    4. Portrait challenge 2
      3m 10s
    5. Portrait challenge 3
      12m 55s
    6. Portrait challenge 4
      3m 19s
    7. Portrait challenge 5
      4m 28s
    8. Portrait challenge 6
      9m 5s
    9. Portrait challenge 7
      4m 29s
  12. 39s
    1. Next steps

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Watch the Online Video Course Up and Running with Studio Strobes
3h 37m Beginner Nov 15, 2013

Viewers: in countries Watching now:

In this course, Rich Harrington and Abba Shapiro give beginning photographers a brisk look at using strobe lights in a studio setting—lessons that easily translate to the field and locations, inside and out. Learn why shooting with strobes and continuous lighting makes such a big impact on your photographs, and how to buy a good, affordable starter kit. Rich and Abba also show how to set your gear up, trigger your lights, and make modifications with accessories like reflectors, umbrellas, and soft boxes. Finally, learn how to make the most of what you have in a series of lighting challenges.

Topics include:
  • Why shoot with strobes?
  • Buying a lighting setup or parts
  • Mixing brands
  • Understanding the components of a studio strobe kit
  • Getting to know your lights
  • Triggering a light
  • Setting up your lights effectively
  • Testing your strobes
  • Modifying strobe lights
Richard Harrington Abba Shapiro

Slaving with a speedlight

>> You've already learned that you can use a dedicated cable, or perhaps a remote trigger, but a lot of folks don't realize that they could already use the gear they own. And in this case, you're going to use your speed light, right? >> Absolutely. I can use the flash from my speed light to trigger the slave units here, as long as the room's not too bright, or that I'm not outside. And the sun is overpowering my flash. >> But there is a setting that you want to change. >> That's right. It's almost perfect, but there is a little problem in that all of these new cameras have these special settings which is E-TTL on a CAnon and TTL on a Nikon.

>> Now we're going to step in here and show you how to do this on a Canon camera as well as a Nikon. Cameras will vary slightly, from one camera version to another, but usually it's in a similar place within the menus and once you find it, you'll know where it's at. I do encourage you to consider adding this to your quick menu or your custom menu so you can easily access this to turn it off and on. When you're shooting with strobes, you're going to want to go ahead and turn it off. When you're doing your normal shooting, if you want the most control from your flash, you'll likely leave it on. So Abba, where are we here? >> Well, I just went over to External Speedlite control and I'm going to step inside here.

And I'm going to scroll down to my flash function settings. And by default, these cameras like to be on that E-TTL mode that I talked about. I don't want that as my default. I'm going to go ahead and select that, and you see there's a bunch of different options, and I'm just going to step over to the manual mode. Choose manual flash, and now, I don't have that pre-flash that's going to set off my lights too early. >> Okay, you show me that it works? >> Sure. >> Now I think it's pretty amazing. This camera is pointing this way with the flash going out that way. But it's still sensitive enough to trigger the light back here.

So this is really a sort of, a 360 sensor. It picks up quite a bit. >> Absolutely, it's picking up all of the bounced light throughout the room. And it still is trigger the, at least one flash, and of course, that would go ahead and trigger any other flashes in the area. >> Great, well hand me that HDMI cable back, and let's take a look at this. Now, Abba showed you using a speed light, easy enough. Very similar, I'll go down to my bracketing and flash control. And you see that in this case I'm just going to use the built in flash which is fine. I'll pop that up. And if we go in there we have the ability to choose if we want to use it or in a manual mode or I'm just going to basically use it in a commander mode which is the same idea.

And I could adjust that, which is fine. Or if we did have a speed light hooked up, you would see that there are actually additional controls in here. And you can go in with your flash controls and set it. It'll depend upon what's attached. Or perhaps you have to step into the actual menu for the flash itself. It will vary by manufacturer but just look for either the E-TTL or ITTL TTL. Look to that and get to the manual. >> Now one thing to keep in mind is when you're in manual mode and I think we saw it earlier. >> Yeah. >> Is that you can how bright that flash is.

>> Yeah. >> And if you have it at full, that flash is going to effect the look of your scene in addition to your strobes. So sometimes you may want to turn that all the way down to say 130 second and that way it's a very minimal effect on the overall look of your scene. >> And this actually went all the way down to 128 for the built in flash, so when I trigger that you know, it's putting that off and it's going to go ahead and do the trigger. Now make sure I'm not blocking. And in this case, not as powerful or bouncing as much light from there. But if I just take that off and let's say, I was shooting in the same general direction, it is triggering that.

So if we were shooting our subject, here we go. It is going ahead and invoking that. And that's fine, built-in flash, pop-up flash. Everyone says, oh that's terrible, never use it. Well. It works great for this, and you've got that build in. Or there. Or you have one more idea, like. >> This is. >> It's so cute. >> This is good. This is, this a little, almost like a point and shoot. It, it, it is an interchangeable lens, but it probably has one of the smallest flashes I've ever seen. And even using this, I can simply power it on. And literally, every time I take a picture.

I can cause it to pop the big flash. Now you do want to be in manual mode for your aperture and shutter speed settings. And we'll get into that a little bit later. But even a pocket camera can trigger your a strobe lights. >> Yeah, so just make sure you've got something that's going to invoke that whether that be, be the dedicated speed light, built in pop-up flash, or a small point-shoot camera. Whatever you are using is usually sensitive enough to get you the results you need.

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