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Shooting with Wireless Flash: Product Shots

Shooting with Wireless Flash: Product Shots

with Jim Sugar

 


In the Shooting with Wireless Flash series, award-winning photographer Jim Sugar demonstrates his approach to using off-camera flash in a variety of lighting scenarios, sharing practical tips along the way.

In this installment, Jim sets up and shoots a product shot. He demonstrates a variety of inexpensive lighting tools—clamps, gels, and other light modifiers—to light a product (in this course, a bicycle) in a way that accurately shows its color and other details. Next, he photographs the product using Adobe Lightroom's tethered shooting mode in order to be able to immediately assess his exposures on the computer screen. The course wraps up with a some tips that apply to product shots of all kinds. With its focus on lighting technique rather than specific strobe models and menu commands, these techniques are applicable to any brand of strobe and camera.
Topics include:
  • Topics include:
  • Preparing for a shoot
  • Positioning the product and wireless strobes
  • Using light modifiers, clamps, and other lighting accessories
  • Shooting in tethered mode
  • Assessing the results
  • Tips to remember for product shots

show more

author
Jim Sugar
subject
Photography, Cameras + Gear, Flash Photography, Lighting
level
Intermediate
duration
39m 34s
released
Jul 29, 2011

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Wireless Techniques for Products
Welcome
00:00Hi! I am Photographer Jim Sugar.
00:04Thanks for joining me in this look at Wireless Flash in action.
00:08I've been a working photographer for many years, and I've seen photographic
00:12technology evolve in a lot of different ways.
00:15For me, one of the most significant developments deals with lighting.
00:19Shooting with artificial lights used to mean in carrying a lot of bulky gear, and
00:23dealing with cumbersome wires,
00:26but not anymore. Today, you can use inexpensive compact strobes units like this
00:31one, which communicate wirelessly with a Digital SLR camera.
00:36These wireless strobes, along with a variety of accessories, make it easier than
00:41ever to get great results in a lot of different shooting scenarios.
00:47That's what this series is all about.
00:50In each installment I'm going to use a handful of wireless strobes, and some
00:55lighting accessories, to show you how I approach a particular kind of photograph.
01:01I'll describe the planning and the decisions that go into a shoot, and I'll share
01:05some lighting and shooting tips along the way.
01:09Now I'll be using Nikon cameras and strobes in this series, but the techniques
01:14I'll be employing apply to any brand of gear.
01:18In fact, I'm deliberately not going to describe specific buttons and menu commands.
01:24This series isn't about specific models and menus;
01:27it's about the art and the craft of lightning.
01:32My goal is to share my approach so that you can apply this information to your
01:37gear, and your subjects.
01:41In this installment our goal is to shoot a photo that makes a product look its very best.
01:46So let's get started and see how that happens.
Collapse this transcript
Setting the stage
00:00So we're here in the studio and our task is to shoot a really wonderful product
00:05shot of this beautiful new trek bicycle.
00:08And we're working in a cove, a really fantastic space that has a freshly painted
00:13white floor and we're going to take advantage of all the things that we can use
00:17today to make a great photograph of this bike.
00:21We want the photograph not only to be a really nice stand-alone image, but we
00:26also want to be able to remove the background using Adobe Photoshop and create
00:31what's called a knockout
00:32so that we can take this picture and create a mask of the bicycle and then put
00:38that into another background. But the first task is to make as good a picture of
00:42this bike showing all the details, all the features, all the shapes, all the
00:47relative sizes as we possibly can.
00:50So the first step was to take the bicycle and to hang it from the series of
00:54Matthew's arms and suspend the bike from these booms using fishing line.
01:01Monofilament line, which is what this is.
01:03And we've already got this in place. Plus, we've prepped the bike.
01:07It's virtually a brand new bike.
01:09We've cleaned it, we've shined it up, so the bike itself is perfect lying here right now.
01:14The other detail that we did was we suspended a light from a boom pole into an umbrella.
01:22So what we're going to do here is we're taking this really small light source,
01:27in this case it's a Nikon SB-900 strobe, and we're bouncing it into this
01:34umbrella, and the umbrella becomes the source of the light.
01:38The strobe head is the origin of the light.
01:40We've made it appear bigger to the object, and the object in this case is the
01:45bicycle, and we're going to diffuse this light by bouncing it over the entire
01:50length of the bicycle.
01:52So what we're going to do now is we're going to get some of the
01:56other lights, and we're going to put them in place.
01:59So we have here a total of five Nikon strobes from the Nikon Creative Lighting System.
02:07We have three Nikon SB-800s, and two Nikon SB-900s, and they're attached to a
02:16device called a Justin Clamp, which is what this is.
02:20And so we can use these clamps in a variety of ways to stand up the strobes, or
02:24to attach them to something else, and we've already got a pretty good idea of how
02:28we want to light that bicycle.
02:30So even though we haven't shot a frame yet, we've worked through a lot of the
02:34concepts in terms of what we want to do, how we want to shoot it, most
02:38importantly, how we want to light it.
02:40So this is a Nikon D3S. The device on the top for triggering all this is called
02:46an Nikon slave unit 800.
02:48And so this camera and this SU-800 will talk wirelessly to the five strobes
02:54that we have, and will fire them, and will give the proper exposure for each one of these strobes.
03:00So the drill is to make sure that we place the light in such a way that we
03:05define the shape of the bicycle as beautifully as we possibly can, not only
03:10to make a really good picture of the bike, but also to be able to drop out the background,
03:15and to take the image of the bike, and put it into potentially a location shot,
03:20because we know that this is a trek bike, and we might want to put it on a
03:24road, on a beach, in someone's hands, but we'll be able to take this and
03:30modify it in a variety of ways.
03:32So we're going to add one more element to this photo which is going to make it
03:37work really well and help us to judge the quality of the photos as we shoot
03:41them and make sure that the image is the picture that's frankly, that's already
03:45playing in my mind.
03:47So I've got a really good clear sense of what I want.
03:50By attaching this camera to a Macintosh 15-inch MacBook Pro by this wire, I'm
03:58going to be able to fire the camera from the computer and I'm going to see the
04:03image come up on the screen, and I'm going to see it in a much, much larger size
04:08than the tiny little LED that's on the back of the camera.
04:12This is often referred to a shooting in tethered mode and it's really fantastic.
04:16And so by just hitting one key on the computer, I'm able to fire the camera,
04:22the camera in turn is going to fire all the strobes, and one person working
04:27alone is going to be able to do a tremendous amount of work easily, efficiently, and quickly.
04:33So let's get started and put the strobes in place, and I'll show you where I put
04:37the lights, and then we'll test it on the computer and make sure that we're
04:41doing the right thing.
04:42And we'll be able to critique the placement of the lights, and the strength of
04:46the lights, and the distance of the lights all at the same time.
04:51So let's get started and put the lights in place.
Collapse this transcript
Placing the flash for product shots
00:00So our first task is to light the background.
00:03We're working in a beautiful new cove with a freshly painted floor, and in an
00:08unusual way, the most difficult task right now is to put the lights in place, so
00:13that we light the background evenly.
00:15And so what I want to do is I've taken these two strobes, and I've attached them
00:19to a Justin clamp, and they should each stand on the floor by themselves.
00:24Because I want to bring the light in from a very low angle, and point it up
00:27slightly, and bring them in from the side in such a way that I've lit the cove evenly.
00:33And once I've got that in place then I'll pay attention to lighting the bicycle itself.
00:37So the first step is to come over here and if you notice that I've got these
00:42little booties on my feet part of that is because the cove is so freshly painted
00:47that we don't want to put any marks on the floor.
00:50And so we've done it, this is the way that we have chosen to do it.
00:54So I bring this back, and I put it in place, and I aim it at about 45? angle
01:00into the cove. And I can also angle it up just a little bit, but these two
01:06lights, once they put in place they have to be symmetrical in every way, because
01:10I want soft even distribution of light.
01:13I want the background to appear to be endless: infinitely deep.
01:18So this light is already in place, and then let's put the other one in place and
01:22we'll do it the same way.
01:24So I come over to the other side of bike, and again I've got it attached to a Justin clamp.
01:31Usually, we would take the Justin clamp and we would physically attach it to
01:34something, but in this case, because it's such a nice device, and it works so
01:39easily, we can use it as a little mini light stand.
01:43So it's essentially a backlight, because that's how we're using it here.
01:48So I look over there and I reference that light, and I try to set this one up in
01:53such a way that it's at the same angle.
01:57And I've already got a fairly good idea of where the edge of the frame is.
02:01So I want these two lights to be right out of the frame, but pointed into
02:08the cove in such a way that we have an even distribution of light all the way around.
02:14And if we do that, then it's quite fantastic.
02:17So we're looking at three things for the positioning of the strobes.
02:21One: keeping it out of the edge of the frame, but just barely.
02:24Two: cranking the light up, and firing into the cove itself which is a white surface.
02:30So we want to make that to as bright as we possibly can. And
02:34three: we want the position of these two backlights to be symmetrical, so they're
02:39basically crossing each other or overlapping ever so slightly, and if we can
02:43make them overlap, then when you look at the photograph that background is going
02:48to be seamless or endless, and infinitely deep.
02:52And if I can do that, then I know that I'm on target, I know that I'm on my way.
02:56And this is the picture that's in my head.
02:58So the bike is in place, that overhead light's in place, and what we're going to do
03:03now, is we're going to focus on the other lights.
03:06So come and take a look at this with me.
03:08And we've put this light, it's an SB-900, and we fired it into a fairly large umbrella.
03:15Now we're bouncing the light into the umbrella. And the umbrella is
03:19placed in such a way that if the two backlights are on the edge of the frame
03:23there, this umbrella is going to be on the edge of the vertical or horizontal
03:28axis at the top of the image.
03:30So we're bouncing this very small origin of light, the strobe head, into an
03:36umbrella, and we're making it relatively large.
03:39And what's going to happen is the size of this arc of light coming out of the
03:44umbrella is going to be virtually the same size as the length of the bicycle.
03:50And I know from experience that if I can make the source of the light, in this
03:55case the umbrella, the same size as the object that I'm photographing, the
03:59bicycle, that the light is going to be very, very soft.
04:03So we know that we've lit the background, and we've lit the top of the bicycle
04:08evenly, and now what we have to do is have an equivalent way of lighting the
04:12bottom of the bicycle because the tires, and the spokes, and the chain, and the
04:18crank, all of these elements are a major part of seeing what the bike looks like;
04:23what the shape of it is.
04:25So rather than take the light and put it on the ground, and firing it up
04:30directly into the light, we have the wonderful ability to use the floor as a
04:36source for bouncing the light.
04:39So what we're going to do now is we're going to take a single light, we're going
04:42to start with just one, and it's also on this Justin clamp, and we're going to
04:47bounce it into the floor.
04:50So this is, again, this is the origin of the light, and the source of the
04:54light becomes the floor.
04:55So that the floor is going to do the same thing for the bottom of the bicycle as
05:01the umbrella does for the top of the bicycle.
05:04And if I've put the lights in place properly, I'm going to have --
05:08sometimes photographers will refer to this as butterfly lighting, or over
05:13and under lighting --
05:14so as opposed to doing portrait lighting, where you bring lights in from the side,
05:18which is fine, this time because of the nature of the object, we're going to use
05:23butterfly lighting and we've already got this light in place, and now we're
05:28going to bring another light in from down below.
05:31So the position of that light, just for starters, and we'll see how it looks. We
05:35may have to tweak it, but we'll see how it looks.
05:38But for starters, we're going to put this light on the ground in the center
05:41position on the bicycle, and we're bouncing it intentionally off the floor.
05:47That's the reason I have the booties on: I don't want to mark up the floor in any way.
05:50So the next step is to shoot a picture, and we'll see how close we are to the
05:55picture that's already in my mind's eye.
05:57I'm trying to put the lights in place that in a way that's going to match that
06:01shot that's already in my head.
06:03So I'm going to try to get this, and make it all work.
06:07Let's go back to the camera and the computer. We'll take a picture and we'll see
06:10how it all works.
Collapse this transcript
The shoot, part 1
00:00So we have the camera, into a USB cable, into a MacBook Pro, and we are going to
00:05shoot our first picture, and we are going to see how good we were in terms of
00:09putting these lights in place.
00:11So the amazing thing about the software with Lightroom3, with this new
00:16feature Tethered mode:
00:17I go File>Tethered Capture, and so I am now in Tethered Capture. And the
00:23camera, and the computer talk to each other, and the computer sees the fact
00:28that it's a Nikon D3S.
00:30And all I have to do is press this single button and it fires the camera. And the
00:35camera in turns fires all the strobes. And the only wire in the whole process is
00:40this little wire here that connects the camera to the computer.
00:44So I now get a chance to see this image, and my first reaction of looking at the
00:48image is that number one, it's a pretty good start, it's not bad at all.
00:53The background is evenly lit, and the bike looks pretty good, but the ratio
00:58between the exposure on the bike and the exposure on the background is wrong.
01:03The bike is too dark and too gray, and the background isn't bright enough.
01:08So I want to make two changes.
01:10We are now going to tweak it. And this ability, or this requirement, to be able to
01:15look at the photograph on the fly is really important.
01:19In the upper right-hand corner of Lightroom, there's a device here called a
01:23Histogram, and the Histogram is essentially my electronic strobe meter, so it's
01:28telling me that I am already in the ballpark.
01:30Now I want to tweak it a little bit, and get it better.
01:34Although I'm in the ballpark, you can see there's very little information on the
01:38right-hand side of the Histogram.
01:41That, and my eyes, are telling me the image is not bright enough. And I not only
01:48have to make sure that the bicycle is right, but I also have to make sure that
01:53the background is lit properly. And I have to make sure that the ratio between
01:58the bicycle and the background is about three stops different.
02:02I want the background to be significantly brighter than the bike, because I
02:06want it to both stand alone as an image, but I also want to be able to create
02:11a knockout to be able to drop it into a catalogue for, in this case the
02:17bicycle manufacturer.
02:19So the amazing thing about this technique is that I can now change the strobe
02:25settings directly from the camera, and I know that the image is going to be
02:30reflected back on the screen in just a second.
02:32So I go into the SU800, and I crank up the exposure.
02:38There are three channels on here, and I increase the exposure on all three of them.
02:45You'll see that on the Nikon strobes, the display shows EV, which stands
02:50for Exposure Value, and refers to the light output. And then I press Select to confirm it.
02:58So I'm using the camera in Manual mode, and I'm adjusting the exposure in
03:03what's called TTL mode or Through The Lens mode, and this is going to set the
03:08strobes for me, in this case 4-strobes.
03:11And I am going to adjust both the shutter speed, and the F-Stop manually.
03:16So I want to make sure that I have a fairly high shutter speed, in this case
03:22about a 60th to a 90th of a second.
03:24I need the strobes to overpower the bright video lights in the studio.
03:28So I've got this setup in such a way.
03:31I have now cranked it up more.
03:32I have got more like bouncing off the floor into the bicycle.
03:37I've also got more light bouncing off the cove, and it should light that up evenly.
03:44And now what I have to do, is I can now take another picture.
03:47So with just making an adjustment, with just seconds, and I didn't even have to
03:51go back to the strobes at all, but by going back here and making another
03:56exposure, I should see if these adjustments have been done properly.
04:01So all I do is I press the button.
04:03My camera fires, and not only does the camera fire, but the strobes fire. And
04:10within seconds, I have got this confirming image, and I can see that the bike
04:14is darker forest green.
04:17I can see that the background is a lot brighter than it was on the previous one.
04:21Let me just show you the previous one briefly, so you can see the difference.
04:24So that was the first shot and here's the second shot.
04:29So I know from experience that I'm awfully close, because I can now see the
04:36definition on the top of the bike.
04:37If I go into Lightroom, and I increase it, I can see that there's really nice
04:45definition on the top of the bicycle on this top bar, and I can look at the seat
04:50and there is really nice definition on the top of the seat, sometimes called the saddle.
04:55And then when I come back, and I look at the top of the tire, the top of the
04:58tire is really well lit.
04:59Well this is a convex surface, a round tire, and yet despite that the top light
05:06over the bicycle was in such a way that it gave me a nice diffused shape.
05:13And again now when I look at the bottom of the tire, the tire here is a nice
05:18diffused shape and I've got a couple of catch lights in the wheel.
05:22And then if I come over and look at the front, I can see that this tire is also
05:28nicely lit, and it's lit identically to the front one. So I have good balance from
05:34the front of the bike to the back. It wouldn't work very well if the front
05:37light were too light or too dark, or the back light were too light or too dark.
05:41The light on the wheels has to be even.
05:44Think of it this way:
05:45in doing the picture like this, we are essentially building a tent of
05:49light around the object.
05:51So we've surrounded the bike with light and we have done it by large
05:56diffused light sources.
05:58Not tiny, little, pointy light sources, but large, diffused light sources.
06:02We started with the small origin of light, the strobe heads, and we have bounced
06:07it in multiple ways, and now we have large, diffused light sources.
06:11And we take this really complicated shape called a bicycle, and we've lit it in
06:16such a way that it looks even and natural, and we can see into the details of
06:21the bike. Because it's really important to me as a potential bike buyer that I
06:26know what I crank is made of, or maybe what kind of tires are on it, or what kind
06:30of wheels are on it.
06:31And the advantage of doing it like this is that I can see these details.
06:36So if I go back again, I would like to try this one more time, and I would like
06:40to see if I can make it brighter just once more.
06:43So this is the last exposure, and as much as I increased it from the first one to
06:48the second one, I'd like to try it one more time.
06:51I may go slightly overboard with it, but that's okay, that's part of the
06:54tweaking process. But I want to make sure that I have done it as well as I
06:59can, and that all these shapes are defined, and that the exposure on the bicycle
07:06is separate from the exposure on the background.
07:08So let's try it one more time, just once more.
07:11So I come back to the camera, and I go back to the SU800, this is the only thing
07:16that I need to switch.
07:17So the lights that I am changing now are the two lights on the floor bouncing
07:23into the cove, and the third light on the floor bouncing into the floor. The top
07:29light into the umbrella is staying the same.
07:33And that's a good thing because this particular strobe controller unit only
07:38allows me to do three channels at once.
07:40So I've got it set up, so I have got one, two, three lights that are being
07:44controlled directly by this.
07:46I haven't touched the light in the umbrella, the overhead top light, I have left that alone.
07:52So now I've got it set, and we are going to shoot one more picture, and I may have
07:57overdone it and that's fine. But what I want to do is to take it as far as I can
08:01take it and see what it looks like.
08:03So now I go back to Lightroom.
08:06I hit the Capture button, one click, it fires the camera.
08:12The cameras fire 4 strobes.
08:14I wait 10 seconds, and there it is.
Collapse this transcript
The shoot, part 2
00:00I have only short three exposures so far, but each exposure is better than
00:04the preceding photo.
00:06But I want to try it one more time just to see if I can make it better one more
00:09time yet, and I think I can.
00:11And the advantage is, I still have one more strobe left.
00:14So now what I would like to do, is to take this strobe, and put it on the floor,
00:20take the one in dead center that's lined up with the center of the bicycle on the
00:23foreground, and move it over, and have two parallel strobes on either side,
00:29firing into the four, And seeing what I can do, by adding a single light.
00:35And I think by adding a single light, I can take the photograph and make it
00:39better still one more time.
00:41And by better, I mean brighter, more accurate in terms of color, and just a
00:46better representation of the product.
00:48So let's just try that.
00:50So I have one last SP800, because we only have five strobes at our disposal.
00:56And again it's attached to this Justin clamp.
00:59So all four of the strobes on the floor are working on Justin clamps, and I
01:04put it in place, and now I aim it down.
01:08Again, I want to keep it out of the frame, and so I know that at this distance
01:15from here to here, that this strobe will be out of the frame.
01:19So I have got this light bouncing into the floor, and now I am going to take
01:24this light and move it over, and put it at an equivalent distance on this side.
01:32And by doing that, I think that I have got a symmetrical positioning of the
01:38lights in the foreground, and symmetrical positioning of the lights in the
01:42background. But I now have more light coming from the bottom.
01:46So again, it's butterfly lighting: top or bottom lighting.
01:50We have light coming from the top; we have the light coming from the bottom: sources.
01:55One large source from an umbrella, and a single source from the bottom with
01:59two origins of light.
02:01And I go back to the computer, and I go up to the Capture button. Hit it with a
02:08one click, and this photograph looks awfully good.
02:13Now I think that by adding the light a couple of things happened.
02:18I have created greater detail on each of the two wheels at the bottom, which I like a lot.
02:24So here, if I go up and look at the bottom of the wheel, the wheels look really
02:32great, and the spikes are really well defined.
02:35And if I go over and look at the other side, it looks great, but it's also balanced.
02:42The two wheels are balanced.
02:44I like what the light did on the overall look of the photo.
02:47I left the light on the top alone, and now I've added just light from the bottom.
02:53I think I can make it just slightly better. And what I want to do is to
02:57take the exposure down on the bicycle, and leave the exposure on the background alone.
03:03So if I go back to the camera, and I go back up here to the SU-800, I can go up
03:09here and I can change these buttons in such a way that I have affected only
03:16the two floor lights that are bouncing up into the bicycle, but I have left the
03:21backlights alone, which is what I have just done.
03:24So I am going to take a picture one more time, and this time, if I have gotten it
03:28right, the bicycle is going to get slightly darker. The bicycle got slightly
03:36darker by about a half stop, and the white stayed the same.
03:40So with the slightest change, the fifth exposure, the image looks great.
03:45The bike looks great. The background is clean. It's very white. The photograph
03:50works well as a stand-alone image, and it also will work well if the client
03:56chooses to put it into a background.
03:58So if I magnify the image, and look at it carefully, I can see that I've
04:03gotten really nice limelight over all the horizontal surfaces here. And then
04:08I come down to the wheel, and the front wheel looks good, the spokes look
04:13good. Each one is individually lit. I come back, and I've got a nice catch light
04:18here on the bottom.
04:19I come back to the rear wheel; I can see that the light looks really great. And
04:24I know that I was able to make this very simply, and I was able to light the
04:29bike in such a way that the products looks great.
04:32And the product was made to look great through the light.
04:35So we had four lights on the floor: two of them bouncing into the foreground
04:40that was lighting the floor. The floor in turn was, the light was reflected up
04:44or bounced up, and lighting the bicycle.
04:47Two more lights lighting the cove in the background. And the fifth light was
04:52a light from overhead, a bounce light, that was coming into this umbrella that's
04:57brought in very, very close to the top of the bicycle, And it's lighting the
05:01bike, from top to bottom. And I was able to do it five lights.
Collapse this transcript
Tips to remember for product shots
00:01So we made a great product shot of a bicycle.
00:04Now you may never have to photograph a brand new bike, but there are
00:07certain techniques that apply no matter what kind of product you are
00:11shooting using Wireless Flash.
00:14Here are some tips to keep in mind.
00:16First tip: do your homework. Browse some magazines, catalogues, the web, and
00:23look at photos of other similar products.
00:26Study how other photographers approached the task. How do they position the
00:30product? How did they light it?
00:33Try to reverse engineer the shots.
00:36Your goal is not to copy another photographer's style, but to get a feeling for
00:41how other photographers have approached similar jobs.
00:45Next tip: plan your shot.
00:48Choose a lens and a camera position that accommodates the product you're
00:52shooting, and the space where you're shooting it.
00:55The size of your working space, and the size of the product, will determine the
01:00focal length of the lens you can use.
01:03For large items like a bicycle, you'll need to make sure that your working
01:08space is large enough that you can shoot the product without having to use a
01:13wide-angle lens that might introduce distortion.
01:16If you're shooting using Seamless Background Paper, you'll also want to make
01:20sure that the background is wide enough to include the entire product from left to right.
01:28For the bicycle product shot, I worked in a TV studio that has large wrap around
01:33cove walls and a high ceiling.
01:36It was perfect for shooting a large item like a bicycle, and because of the
01:41curved walls, we didn't need seamless background paper.
01:45Now a space like this is a luxury that I don't usually have, and it was a
01:49great place to work.
01:51But it presented its own challenge:
01:53bright video lights. I had to make sure that my strobes could light the bicycle,
01:59and overpower the ambient light created by the TV lights.
02:03To do that, I measured the ambient light using the light meter in the camera.
02:09Then I set up the strobes and cranked up their power, so that their output was
02:14at least one or two F-stops brighter than the video lights.
02:19Now you may never have to shoot in a brightly lit TV studio, but you might have
02:24to shoot a product in a space that has bright ambient window light.
02:29If you don't have the luxury of finding a darker location, you still have
02:33a couple of options.
02:35One option is to move the strobes closer to the subject to increase the
02:40relative brightness.
02:41Another option is to reduce the window light.
02:45Cover the window with something: a dark cloth, a piece of seamless
02:49background paper, a window blind, a bed sheet, or even a shower curtain
02:55stolen from the bathroom.
02:56At one time or another, I've done all of these things.
03:01The bottom line is that lowering the ambient light in the space reduces the
03:06need to crank up the power of the strobes. Because remember, asking small
03:11strobes to fire at full power, or even close to it, increases the recycling time,
03:18and drains the battery's faster.
03:20Next tip: use a tripod.
03:24Take advantage of the fact that you're shooting something that doesn't move.
03:27Put your camera on a tripod.
03:30This makes it easier to compose your shot with more precision, and make
03:34adjustments to your lighting.
03:36No need to put down and pick up your camera, and recompose your shot over and over again.
03:42Also think about shooting in Tethered mode. As I described when we did the
03:47bicycle shot, this lets you view your photos on a big screen instead of your
03:53camera's tiny LCD screen.
03:55The large view can make it much easier to adjust lighting and exposure settings
04:00since you can really see the details of your photo.
04:04Next tip: compose your shot carefully.
04:08In product photography, your goal is to create good-looking photos that show
04:13the item accurately.
04:15To get that accuracy, make sure you compose the shot in a way that doesn't
04:20distort parts of the product.
04:22For example, you might get unwanted distortion if you use a wide-angle lens, and
04:29get too close to the product.
04:31For the bicycle shot, it was important that the wheels appeared perfectly round,
04:36because it turns out that it's hard to sell a bicycle that has warped wheels.
04:41The solution was to suspend the bicycle using fishing line.
04:46This allowed me to shoot straight on, and eliminate distortion and shadows that
04:51would've taken a long time to fix in Photoshop.
04:55And finally, one last tip.
04:58Estimate how many lights you will need, and estimate where to place those lights.
05:03Your goal is to light the product evenly, and in a way that shows details, and
05:08avoids unwanted reflections or hotspots.
05:11Often, adding just a single strobe to the ambient light can make a big change in
05:16the look and feel of the image.
05:18But if you think you'll need a lot of artificial light sources, then by all
05:23means use them. Bring every strobe you own, and borrow or rent additional
05:28ones if you need to.
05:30And, ultimately, this is why it's important to do your homework.
05:34Get to know the space where you are working.
05:37A logical, consistent approach will help you minimize problems, and shoot better photos.
05:43Thank you so much for watching!
Collapse this transcript
About the Author
An interview with Jim Sugar
00:01Photography was something that from an early age it felt right to me, and more
00:06importantly it made me happy.
00:08And one of the very, very earliest pictures that I shot got published in the New
00:13York Times Sunday Book Review, and the Times paid me the princely sum of $25,
00:18which at that time was a fortune and that was a great experience.
00:22And I also had a chance to photograph William Manchester, who at that time was
00:27writing Death of a President about John F. Kennedy who had been assassinated
00:33about two years earlier, and those pictures got published.
00:37So I learned very early on, A, that I was good at photography and I shot nice
00:42pictures and that there was a market to do the kind of work that I did.
00:46Even though I was living in a relatively small place like Middletown, but it was
00:50halfway between Boston and New York.
00:52And so I made a lot of weekend trips back and forth between Boston and New York.
00:56Fairly early on during a geographic story I had a chance to meet the man who I
01:02consider to be the smartest human being I've ever met, the absolutely great
01:07Burt Rutan, the brilliant airplane designer who up until about a month ago
01:12lived in Mojave, California.
01:15His most famous project was the X- Prize where he actually built two aircraft,
01:21the White Knight One and SpaceShipOne, and it went up to 100,000 feet and came
01:28
01:28back down again, SpaceShipOne did, and landed.
01:32And then that same aircraft had to be refueled and flown again less than 10 days
01:37later in order to win 10 million bucks, and Burt designed these airplanes.
01:44I was lucky enough with Burt that at a time when his company was producing a
01:51huge number of aircraft, sometimes they would be working on multiple designs at any one time.
01:58Because my connections within the aviation industry were pretty good, sometimes
02:03I'd be able to do a story for Popular Mechanics on one of Rutan's planes,
02:07sometimes I would do -- I had a lot of Rutan's airplanes in the Geographic,
02:12sometimes it's just a single picture in a bigger story or story in a book.
02:17But when I got a chance to photograph Burt Rutan's airplanes there were two
02:21things that were happening;
02:23one were air to air photos of the airplanes in the air.
02:25How do you take a picture of an airplane in the air?
02:28And you come to realize very early that just because you're 3000 feet up in the
02:32air you still have to think and act like a photographer.
02:35You've got to be able to see pictures.
02:37You still have to tell the story of that airplane.
02:40But then when the airplane was down on the ground, that same airplane whether
02:44you did it the night before or the next day, it was a big piece of modern art.
02:50It was really sophisticated either sheet metal, or carbon epoxy fiber, that had
02:56been formed into this thing that we call an airplane.
03:00With Rutan airplanes each one was the mark of a generation, and so what were the
03:04features of that airplane that were distinctive, and how much time would they
03:08give you to photograph the plane, and where on that airport can you take the
03:14plane in order to photograph it?
03:17And mostly we worked at twilight.
03:19So the pictures of the airplanes on the ramp at twilight, and each plane was
03:23different, the thought process, the way of working, the way of seeing that
03:27airplane, of telling the story of that airplane was exactly the same process as
03:32photographing our friend Tony holding the pizza in front of Tony's Pizzeria,
03:38right at the magic hour in Ventura, California.
03:42One guy happened to be in Mojave, the other guy happened to be in Ventura, but
03:46it was all about telling stories and illustrating this concept.
03:51Later I got involved with some friends of mine at the Geographic, mostly
03:55Rick Gore who was a great science writer at that point, and I started to do science stories.
04:01So as a result of doing science stories they had a different requirement and
04:05I learned how to light, and learning how to light and learning how to tell
04:09the story of complex subject. The most difficult one was gravity.
04:14I did a story on gravity for the Geographic and that was really, when I got that
04:18assignment it was really a gut shot for me.
04:21How do you photograph something that you can't see, smell, touch,
04:27put your hands on, do anything to it? But it's there all the time and you're
04:30surrounded by it and you -- it's your job to illustrate that. How do you that?
04:35In order to photograph gravity I had to show the effects of gravity or
04:39the things that it did,
04:41because I couldn't take a picture of it directly. And I had a great picture
04:45editor at the Geographic, Bill Douthitt, who is a very close friend of mine to
04:49this day, I'm happy to say.
04:51And he and I decided that in order to do gravity one of the things we needed to
04:55show was we needed to illustrate Sir Isaac Newton's concept of a feather and an
05:01apple dropping at the same rate.
05:04And that lead to doing a photo which again to this day was the hardest
05:09photograph I've ever done.
05:11And I was able to find a vacuum chamber at NASA Ames in Mountain View,
05:17California and we build a trap door and got a feather and an apple and I
05:24collected them very carefully, and then I got a special set of lights that
05:30fired about 20 frames a second.
05:33And I was able to figure out how to fire these strobes, and we took all the air
05:40out of the vacuum chamber and we put the feather and the apple at the top.
05:44And then when I pulled the release on the trap door, the feather and the apple
05:49fell in the vacuum chamber and it took about three days to get it right.
05:55I didn't get it right the first time, but at that time we were shooting this on
05:59Kodachrome and there was a Kodak dealership right down the street where we could
06:02get the film processed overnight.
06:04It's not like using one of these digital cameras where you can see that -- I
06:08didn't know that I had the picture or not had the picture until the next morning literally.
06:13And the second day I still didn't have it right, but by the third day I had
06:17everything dialed in, and frame after frame after frame was perfect.
06:22There was no manipulation of the image, the image was very, very carefully set
06:26up, but we did it right and we did it honestly.
06:29That was the kind of shot that occurred at a point when I was learning
06:32photography that I couldn't have done that as an earlier photographer, but at
06:36that time it was really a breakthrough shot for me.
06:39And so photography for me became problem-solving.
06:43Are you doing street people down in South San Francisco under the freeway
06:47somewhere next to the railroad tracks?
06:49Okay, you can do that, but at the same time somebody may ask you to go out the
06:53next day and do a CEO of a corporation, or a CEO of a company where the photo
06:59has to be lit, or you may have to go out and photograph a feather and an apple
07:03dropping in a vacuum chamber, and do it honestly, it can't be done in Photoshop.
07:09So there were other people who were done similar things before that, but for me
07:13the level of complexity for that shot gave me a lot of confidence that almost no
07:19matter what was thrown at me photographically I could figure it out.
Collapse this transcript


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