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Let's take a look at shooting a time lapse. Now, this is just a quick overview of the time lapse process. I do have a full-length training title available here on lynda.com, but I do love the ability to shoot time lapse tethered, because it lets me really dial in precise control, not have to keep popping out the card and putting it in the computer to check. You see, I want to make sure that the shot is properly exposed, and in focus. Now in this case, we're shooting a time lapse of things pretty far away. I'm just going to get the trees that are over there. And I've got the clouds are passing through.
So, I've set my focus point to pretty much infinity because that's what I'm focusing on. And everything's locked down solid on the tripod. We don't want any vibration or shake. I've tethered the CamRanger to the device so I can tether this. I could use a remote as well, but this should work pretty well. Everything's all fine, I've gone ahead and put the camera into manual focus. I've also popped the ring on the lens to manual focus. This way, nothing is changing. And I'll just check real quick. Yep, everything's fine.
I'm not set up for bracketing. I'm on manual exposure, so nothing is going to change once I set the camera. Alright, I think this looks pretty good. Let's head over and take a look at the actual camera settings. Let's start by going to the live data here and I could see a live histogram. Just take a base capture there. It's coming in a bit overexposed. Let's take that ISO down and we'll stop down the image significantly to that F18.
There we go. It's downloading the raw file, because at this point I'm shooting just raw. I'd prefer to shoot raw for timelapse. That's looking pretty solid. The histogram's smashed a little bit to the left there, so I'm going to open things up just a bit more. Let's go to ISO200 and we'll take that down to a 100th. Takes the test captures, transfers the file. And that's looking really good. I can see the trees, I've got nice detail, I can see the clouds. Now, at this point, I'm happy with the actual exposure. What I want to do is set up an interval.
Typically, with time lapse, what you're going to do is, record a frame maybe every one or two or five or ten seconds, and then you assemble those frames and put them back into a movie. Well normally with a movie you're shooting 24 frames a second but with time lapse we might be shooting a second over several minutes, so what happens is the sense of time seems to move much quicker. And things like the clouds up that are up there are going to float through the sky and we'll see some other things really come out of this. So this looks pretty good. Let's switch on over to the timer mode.
All my settings are fine and what I'm going to do is dial in the number of shots. So I could touch here on the number of shots and typically speaking, you're going to use somewhere between 24 and 30 frames a second. Well if I want a 20 second shot, at 24 frames a second, I need about 480 shots. So let's look for around 500 here or so. Well, there's 480 if I want to be precise, but I'll be a little bit safer and we'll overshoot slightly at 600.
I can hit OK. Next it asks me for the delay, how much time is going to happen in between each shot. My initial delay is how long until the time lapse starts to record. So what's cool about this is you could set up a shot and then walk away. Maybe sunset doesn't happen for another two hours. You can delay the shot by hours if you'd like. Now, I'm just going to dial that in here and say, you know what, I don't need any initial delay. So I'll hit OK. But I do want a delay between each shot.
So I'll take that interval delay, and I'm going to dial that in at five seconds. But you know you've got total control here, up to minutes that you can dial in for how long it takes in between each shot. Maybe you want to shoot one shot an hour of something long term, like a building being built. You can do that. Juts tether your iPad, and tether the camera, plugging it into the wall so there's constant power, and you could run for a long time. Alright, that's looking pretty good. We've set the interval at five seconds. I've got 600 shots. And looks all set.
I'm going to have no shot delay there. Everything's good. You know, I do have the ability right from here to invoke an HDR timelapse. That's super cool. The fact that's built in here, I can combine two types of shooting. High dynamic range with time lapse, without having to do anything crazy. So this is really quite nice. Everything looks good. So at this point, I'll just check it over once more. Take a test capture. Make sure nothing changed substantially while we were adjusting things. Looking at that downloaded image, it's taking a preview here.
Looks good, let's double tap to zoom. Yep. Everything seems to be holding up well. So, let's just check our white balance, I'm going to switch that to cloudy. Looks good and tap the Start button to invoke it. Now, it asks you to confirm everything before you start to run, so, look at everything over there, it says it's going to to have no delay, it's going to take 600 shots, with a five second delay between each shot. Looks good. I'll hit Start. Now at this point, the camera's on autopilot and starts the time lapse process.
You could hear it going right over there. Now the best thing to do right now is not touch anything. Don't touch your camera. Don't touch the iPad. This is a perfect time to get lunch or a cup of coffee. Don't of course walk away and leave your gear unattended. But all in all, we're in pretty good shape here. So I'll just let this time lapse go ahead and build. And then we'll take a look at it and put the pieces together a little bit later.
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