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Connecting a computer to your DSLR camera opens up a brand-new world of opportunities in image making. You can gain greater control over your in-camera adjustments and get a more accurate picture of your lighting and setup. In this course, Rich Harrington introduces the tethered shooting workflow and shows how to connect your camera to a computer, an external monitor, and even an iPad or mobile device. He'll review the shooting environment, building the tethered station, software solutions for tethering, and wireless shooting with a CamRanger or GoPro camera. These techniques work well both in the studio and in the field, so you'll be prepared for all tethered shooting scenarios.
This course was created and produced by Rich Harrington. We are honored to host this content in our library.
I've had it outside just to get a few practical experiences with tethering. I've just gone out and we're going to take advantage of a beautiful fall day. We're going to capture some colors changing in the leaves. And then we'll shoot another HDR shot. This is just a good chance to really see how all the pieces come together. I've got everything connected, and I've started up the CamRanger. And, under my wi-fi connections, I've gone ahead and connected to it. Let's just check that real quick. Yep, you see I'm successfully connected to the CamRanger.
Alright, let's switch over into a live view mode and frame up the shot. Now, I can see through and look through the actual view finder, or I could see wirelessly what I'm doing here. And I just want to capture some of the fall colors. And I'm going to temporarily flip the camera into auto focus mode, which is going to allow me to click to set focus. Now at this point I could turn that off in the software, or if I just really want to be sure I'll actually flip it off at the camera level.
That just gives me a little bit of extra control. Let's go ahead and turn live view off. And we'll take a look at the raw data coming in. Now it's a little overexposed for my liking, take that down a bit. I can see that with the live view. And let's stop down a bit to increase depth or feel. I'm going to fire off a test capture just to see what I have Wirelessly it transfers to my laptop. And definitely dark. Let's make that shutter a little faster. We'll go with 250th. And looking at the histogram that's a pretty solid base exposure.
Now, I say base exposure, because I'm going to shoot a high dynamic range series of images. Normally, my camera will only do a three image range, but I can go ahead and change this up, and because I'm tethered, I could actually shoot additional images. So let's switch over to the HDR controls and really set things up. To start, I'm going to disable Live View and then switch on over to HDR. There we go. Let's lower the base exposure a bit to 640. I'll check my light balance.
I'm going to go with, sunny, because that's pretty much what it is today. There's, really no clouds in the sky whatsoever, which is unfortunate because I was hoping to get some good time lapse today. And checking my settings here, I'm on raw plus jpeg. Everything looks good. So I will dial in a couple of preferences. Now first thing I do is check my overall preferences to say where should the HDR image series start? Does it start with the base exposure and then go and down, or do we start with the darkest image first which is shot to preserve the highlights.
That's usually my preference because that's the fastest image to take. That way the camera goes through the series pretty quickly. And if some of the longer exposures have too much motion or wind breeze in them, I could drop them from the HDR series. Alright, so let's just check that, we're starting at the shadows. Looks good, close that. And I will set in the starting values. So let's go with a darker image to begin with. I'll dial in the number of stops. And when ready, I simply click start.
Now, I'm going to step away from the tripod so I don't add any vibration, and the wind's pretty calm right now, so this should work. Let's engage. So I've already started the series. You can see the images are downloading. In this case I'm shooting RAW plus JPEG. But only the JPEG files are transferring. Alright. It finished the advanced bracket. Let's go ahead and dial that in again. We'll start a little darker. Let's open the image up a bit, and start the series. At the high end, that's definitely blown out, but let's switch subjects for a moment here.
We've been shooting the trees, which is a bit tough as an HDR subject, because what's going to happen is that there's wind. Now, as things calm down, the wind changes, I'm going to shoot a couple of series on and off, but then we're going to switch up and we're going to shoot a car, which isn't going to be prone to any wind. Let me take one more HDR series of this tree. Things look pretty calm. Set the starting value, go nice and low, and engage. Now I'm seeing subtle movement from the wind but that's to be expected.
The good news is, we could take advantage of Ghost reduction inside of the HDR software to minimize that. Alright, that series is done, let me go ahead and switch lenses, take the camera off, power it down. As I change the lens, I tend to keep things pointed down to minimize dust. We've swapped here from a 70 to 200 down to a 35. Let's also get the tripod a little lower to the ground since we're not shooting up into our subject, but we're going to be shooting an automobile at a lower level.
Now, since I swapped lenses there, I just did a restart on the application. When you swap out a lens, CamRanger may need to successfully reconnect and detect everything, so not a bad idea to just give it a fresh start. Let's take a base capture. Good. Going a bit on the dark side there, but that's Okay. We're going to do an HDR here, and I really want to get a nice wide range. Let's give that a shot. Alright, that series successfully worked but I want to push the stops a bit further apart. Instead of a third of a part, let's go a full stop.
And I'll set that base exposure really low. Let's do 11 stops. And we'll go from there. Now I could see that the darkest image definitely preserves the highlights. And as it's opening up, we're getting more of those shadows in there. Alright. That was a successful series. I'm going to run just a couple more with a few variations in settings to give me some options during post production, but that's the basics on shooting an HDR series. What's nice about tethering, is that you get much greater control than you can dial in with the camera itself or with a remote.
Because essentially you get the power of the computer to take advantage of controlling the camera and remember, you don't have to lug the laptop out, you can absolutely do this with the iPad or the mobile phone application as well.
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