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In this course, Rich Harrington and Abba Shapiro give beginning photographers a brisk look at using strobe lights in a studio setting—lessons that easily translate to the field and locations, inside and out. Learn why shooting with strobes and continuous lighting makes such a big impact on your photographs, and how to buy a good, affordable starter kit. Rich and Abba also show how to set your gear up, trigger your lights, and make modifications with accessories like reflectors, umbrellas, and soft boxes. Finally, learn how to make the most of what you have in a series of lighting challenges.
Now one thing I haven't talked a lot about is ISO. Now, when I start shooting, I like to keep my ISO as low as possible, usually at 100 or 200 because I want to make sure the image is as clean and crisp as possible. But there are times that I need to increase the ISO because I don't have enough light even if I open my aperture all the way up, or I want to maintain depth of field. So in this case, I have a perfectly balanced image, but I want greater depth of field, so I'm going to notch it up to say, F11, or maybe even F16.
And you'll see that the image actually will be too dark, and then I'm going to use the ISO to fix that. Now this image is obviously too dark, and I might not have the ability to make my lights brighter. But I want the shot. So this is a case where I'm going to up the ISO and I'm going to get a brighter image, everything's going to work out. I might have a little bit more noise, but I'll still get the shot. Shutter noise Beep So as you see, I can just notch up my ISO in this case I took it up from 100 to 800, I get the shot that I want. I might be able to pull it back to 400.
I'll play with this just like we play with aperture and the power setting of the lights. But, I really love the fact that with today's technology I can crank up my ISO and still get pretty clean images. Very clean images. So, that gives me a lot of flexibility whether I'm in the studio or in the field and working with strobes.
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