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One of the things that excites me about hyper lapse, is the ability to get a consistent rate. Now with normal hyper lapse, folks will usually mark out their distance on the ground and move the tripod a set number of positions. With a moving vehicle, I want to go a set distance as well. Now remember with traffic sometimes you're going to slow down. Sometimes you're going to speed up. We went and tested this last night, driving around on the highway around Las Vegas, and this was a perfect test. We had stop and go traffic.
There was lots of issues getting on and off the highway. This always affected the speed in which the car was going. Now, as we drove around Las Vegas with different types of speed, what would happen with the traditional time lapse is it would feel like you were jittery. Because as we came to stoplights we could have been sitting there for two, three minutes. Well, that'd be boring if it just kept firing a shot every five seconds. On the other hand, as we started going faster we would miss cool things. So, we're going to do a time lapse, a hyper lapse that's tied to the distance or position of the car.
And most of you these days are walking around with a mobile GPS receiver, your smartphone. Alright. I'm connected with trigger trap. This is a very affordable solution. Connects to your smartphone. Very simple. You get this little dongle here. And they make these for different type of smartphones. And then you get a cable specific to your camera. They make these for all major camera brands. So this is a solution that should work for just about all of you. You get it connected and launch the application. Now, there's lots of methods in here, but what I'm going to use is the Distance Lap and when I choose that, up pops a dial.
For the distance in number of meters. Now, what I'm going to do here is dial it in. We are going pretty fast. And for me, as I think about this, I'm going to experiment a little bit. I'm not sure what exactly the right distance is, but I'm going to try every 100 meters as a starting point. I'm not driving the car. We're having some speed ups and slow downs as we go through different zones, but that seems like a good place to start. I'll hit okay. It's going to take a little bit, and you see there that it's starting to measure distance.
And as we cover that distance, it's just triggering the shock. Now the camera seems to be holding up. It's not missing the shots but, that's pretty fast. I think I'm going to slow that down a little bit. So let me stop. And it's generally a good idea if you make a break to give yourself a visual indicator. So, I'll put that in front. And just take a quick shot. So let's just dial in a new thing, 150. Hit OK, and we'll give it another test. Seems good. Let's let that roll for a little bit, and we'll check the results.
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