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In this course, Rich Harrington and Abba Shapiro give beginning photographers a brisk look at using strobe lights in a studio setting—lessons that easily translate to the field and locations, inside and out. Learn why shooting with strobes and continuous lighting makes such a big impact on your photographs, and how to buy a good, affordable starter kit. Rich and Abba also show how to set your gear up, trigger your lights, and make modifications with accessories like reflectors, umbrellas, and soft boxes. Finally, learn how to make the most of what you have in a series of lighting challenges.
We're going to start off pretty simple. We have a nice shot here of Valerie, I just want to tweak it a little bit, there's not a lot of work I want to do on this one. But this is just to show you how easy it is to fine-tune an image that you've already lit well. So the first thing I like to do is I like to make sure that my black levels and my white levels are at their best. So, I'm going to hold down the Option key, this is the Alt key on Windows, and I can grab the Blacks slider in Lightroom, and I can slide that over just until I start seeing an image.
And that tells me that that is the lowest levels that I want for my blacks. And I can do the same thing for my whites. So again, I'm going to hold down the Option key, and that's the Alt key on a Windows machine. And I'm going to move this over to the right just until I start seeing some image. And when I let go, I now know that I have the full range available to me. Now, this isn't always necessary. As a matter of fact, if your image is mostly dark or mostly light, you may not hit that 0 100 point. But this is a good way to start, now I look at this image and if I want to zoom in, I can simply press the space bar key and that will bring me to 100%.
And I can see that I have a little bit more light on Valerie's face than I want, so I'm going to go ahead, hit the space bar, bring it back down and I'm going to grab the Highlight slider and bring that down just a little bit. Just so she doesn't feel over exposed. And I want to take my shadows and get a little bit of separation. We didn't use a lot of lights on this shot, but I can open up the shadows a little bit and that gives me a nice balance to my shot. I always like to add a little bit of Clarity, it makes the focus feel that much sharper.
I don't want to go crazy, if you go crazy it actually looks like a bad HDR. So just a little bit of sharpening works really nice and then because there's not a lot of color in the blouse, I'm going to bring up the Vibrance, this is going to actually bring up the color in the non-skin tone areas and make the image pop just a little bit. The last two things I want to do is I want to make sure that i go down here and I enable the profile correction. And what this does is it looks at the lens, and if it was a wide angle lens, it will adjust for that.
And in case there's chromatic aberration, I will turn that on. And that's usually the case where you get that fringing on the edge of an image. With that done, I'm going to simply go in and do a crop. And this is going to be a free form crop. I don't have a specification, that it has to be an eight by ten, or a five by seven. I'm just going to use the rule of thirds, crop it, till I have a nice balance. I'll hit the Return or the Enter key, and I think we have a pretty good image there. I may pull down the highlights just a hair.
Just to make sure that it doesn't feel like we have a blown out image. So that's one quick way I would process this picture of Valerie.
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