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Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)

From: Up and Running with Studio Strobes

Video: Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)

Now comes the math and science section. Now, don't freak out. And you'll notice we have a very different image because Now we've moved it past its original position to twice the distance And as you notice, in this image, we have all the light on

Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)

Now comes the math and science section. Now, don't freak out. We're not going to really blow your mind and, if you hated math and science, don't worry about this one. Don't fast forward. I want to explain another way you can adjust your lights very easily and very effectively. Now, you'll hear a term called the inverse square law, and already your head's probably getting bigger, but it's simply this. If my light is not bright enough, instead of playing with the knobs I can actually move it closer or further away. Now if i move it closer it's not like a one-to-one relationship where, you know I move it half the distance it gets twice as bright, it actually is the squaring.

So if I move it closer. Half the distance, it actually gets four times brighter. And conversely, if I move it backwards twice the distance, it actually gets a quarter as bright as it was. Let's go and look at this in practice and show you three shots where all we're doing is moving the light in closer or further away. So our primary shot. This is a nicely balanced image, but I really want it to pop on the right side of her face, so Rich, just go ahead and bring in about half the distance.

We'll quickly take another shot, and instead of it being twice as bright, it should be about four times brighter on her face. And you'll notice we have a very different image because the right side is now more of a fill light and we have a much stronger light, on the right side of her face without me having to change anything. Rich, let's bring that back. Now we've moved it past its original position to twice the distance it was originally, so the light should actually be one-quarter the power than we saw in the very first shot.

And as you notice, in this image, we have all the light on the left side of her face, and the right side is just a fill. And maybe a little bit of an eye light. So as you see, by just moving the light closer or further and not changing any other settings, I can get three different looks very easily.

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This video is part of

Image for Up and Running with Studio Strobes
Up and Running with Studio Strobes

62 video lessons · 5300 viewers

Richard Harrington and Abba Shapiro
Author

 
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  1. 4m 6s
    1. Welcome
      2m 4s
    2. What you should know to get the most from this course
      2m 2s
  2. 6m 26s
    1. Shooting with strobes
      1m 23s
    2. Strobe lighting allows you to shoot with an increased depth of field
      58s
    3. Strobe lighting has faster recharge times than flashes
      1m 39s
    4. Strobe lighting is good at freezing action
      48s
    5. Strobe lighting offers many modifiers to shape light
      1m 38s
  3. 7m 34s
    1. Continuous lighting is easier for a beginner to understand
      1m 47s
    2. Continuous lighting makes it easier to achieve soft-light looks
      2m 57s
    3. Continuous lighting is useful if mixing video into the shoot
      2m 50s
  4. 20m 47s
    1. Buying piecemeal vs. buying a kit
      2m 29s
    2. Criteria for selecting lights
      5m 57s
    3. How many lights do you need?
      3m 0s
    4. How much power do you need
      5m 37s
    5. Mixing brands
      3m 44s
  5. 16m 40s
    1. Monolights and flash heads
      2m 22s
    2. Reflectors and diffusers
      3m 54s
    3. Lighting stands and booms
      3m 49s
    4. Power pack or power supplies
      4m 29s
    5. Sync cable
      2m 6s
  6. 19m 7s
    1. Handling the lamp or bulb
      2m 52s
    2. The role of the modeling light
      4m 36s
    3. Keeping lights cool
      1m 46s
    4. The master and slave relationship for lighting
      4m 5s
    5. Essential controls
      5m 48s
  7. 14m 59s
    1. Connecting the sync cable
      3m 16s
    2. Using a wireless transmitter
      7m 7s
    3. Slaving with a speedlight
      4m 36s
  8. 34m 6s
    1. Setting shutter sync speed
      4m 56s
    2. Setting an initial aperture and ISO
      2m 28s
    3. Controlling power output
      3m 1s
    4. Moving lights (the inverse-square rule)
      2m 8s
    5. Using a light meter in camera
      4m 4s
    6. Using an external light meter
      1m 45s
    7. Test shooting with one light at a time
      2m 5s
    8. Putting it all together
      1m 39s
    9. Controlling exposure with power or aperture
      1m 6s
    10. Refining exposure with ISO
      1m 39s
    11. Tethering to a laptop
      5m 22s
    12. Checking the shots on a computer
      3m 53s
  9. 31m 38s
    1. Modifying strobe lights
      1m 9s
    2. Bouncing the light with a reflector
      4m 26s
    3. Bouncing the light with a bounce card
      1m 12s
    4. Shaping the light with a beauty dish
      3m 5s
    5. Diffusing the light with an umbrella
      5m 50s
    6. Diffusing the light with a softbox
      4m 49s
    7. Focusing the light with a snoot
      6m 58s
    8. Modeling the light with grids and honeycombs
      2m 2s
    9. Using flags to restrict the light
      2m 7s
  10. 14m 50s
    1. Three-light setup
      6m 52s
    2. Three-light dramatic portrait
      4m 59s
    3. Four-light setup
      2m 59s
  11. 46m 56s
    1. Take the challenge
      55s
    2. Solution
      29s
    3. Portrait challenge 1
      8m 6s
    4. Portrait challenge 2
      3m 10s
    5. Portrait challenge 3
      12m 55s
    6. Portrait challenge 4
      3m 19s
    7. Portrait challenge 5
      4m 28s
    8. Portrait challenge 6
      9m 5s
    9. Portrait challenge 7
      4m 29s
  12. 39s
    1. Next steps
      39s

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