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Douglas Kirkland on Photography: Shooting with a Medium-Format Camera

Douglas Kirkland on Photography: Shooting with a Medium-Format Camera

with Douglas Kirkland

 


In the Douglas Kirkland on Photography series, well-known photographer Douglas Kirkland explores a variety of real-world photographic scenarios, sharing technique insights and critiquing the results.

This installment follows Douglas as creates a portrait for Kodak's "On Film" series, which features portraits of directors, cinematographers, and other major players in the film industry. Douglas has shot nearly 250 portraits for this series over the past 20 years.

The course begins with a discussion of the unique qualities of film—its clarity, definition, and tonal range—and of film’s enduring importance in today’s digital world. Next, Douglas tours the Mamiya RZ67 medium-format camera, demonstrating its components and comparing its format to 35mm film. He then demonstrates a variety of lighting, posing, and styling techniques while photographing Owen Roizman, an award-winning cinematographer, in the Kirkland studio in Los Angeles, California.

The course concludes with a critique of the resulting photographs. Douglas also shows how he resized and cropped the image to fit a print advertisement.

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author
Douglas Kirkland
subject
Photography, Cameras + Gear
level
Intermediate
duration
41m 36s
released
Jul 15, 2011

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Introduction
Course highlights
00:00(music playing)
00:06Today I'd like to show you some of my portrait work done with medium format film.
00:12Through the past 20 years, I've photographed individuals like this for Eastman
00:16Kodak for their On Film series.
00:18It's used in various places, but American Cinematographer is one of the
00:23magazines that you'll always find a cover, a back cover rather, from this work.
00:28A camera like this is a little different than what you are accustomed to seeing.
00:31For one thing, we are looking straight down like that, and you might have a
00:34little trouble at first with it, because things tend to move the opposite way,
00:37because there is mirror inside here that you are looking at.
00:40I want you to come with us as we spend the afternoon working with a great
00:44cinematographer who's renowned and a legend in the world of motion pictures.
00:49His name is Owen Roizman.
00:51This is our blocking shot, so to speak, but this basically shows you what our square one is.
00:57Oh, what you did, I just observed what you did there. Yeah, I love that.
01:01I love that. Yes, yes, yes. This is beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.
01:04I just saw a natural move and it's a wonderful one. I love that.
01:09I am coming in tight.
01:11Pull your glasses off and just hold them near your face, if you don't mind.
01:15Drop them a little there in front of your face, Yes, yes, yes. Nice, nice, nice, nice.
01:17I had to bring his hand in again to fit the format, and again you get this
01:24wonderful warmth again that you can get with film.
01:27You can't quite match that any other way. And then it goes on to the final image.
01:32I feel it all works.
01:33It's the look of the direct light on Owen, and it's really a profile, and again
01:38I just watched the light come into his eyes, and I feel that for me is the success
01:43of this image.
01:45(music playing)
Collapse this transcript
Welcome
00:00Hi! My name is Douglas Kirkland.
00:03Welcome to On Photography.
00:05Today I'd like to show you some of my portrait work done with medium format film.
00:10Through the past 20 years, I've photographed individuals like this for Eastman
00:14Kodak for their On Film series.
00:17These are cinematographers and directors and others in the industry.
00:21"Why film?" you might say.
00:22Well, 6x7 film with a Mamiya RZ-- it's all been done that way--has a great
00:28clarity to it and definition, and many people feel that the tonal range and
00:33everything that we see with film has other possibilities.
00:37And as I've photographed this series, 250 ads so far in all, people have
00:42gotten to really look forward to seeing what will be next, because we try to get
00:46variation in everything.
00:48Most of these are done in our studio in Los Angeles, but we also do go on location.
00:53This is a wonderful French cinematographer, Philippe Rousselot, photographed in
00:56Poland in a hotel room, because you make the studio; you make the event happen
01:02wherever you are and they are, and that's what the joy of it is. Or here again,
01:07another cinematographer photographed outside.
01:10Each picture, each ad, each feel has to have its own special character.
01:15And here's my friend Owen Roizman, award-winning cinematographer.
01:19I'd like to take you with me today as we go into the studio and do his ad with a
01:24medium format camera.
Collapse this transcript
Shooting with a Medium-Format Camera
The Kodak "OnFilm" series
00:00So I started my career shooting film, and I'm still doing it today.
00:04I love digital, yes, but I shoot film frequently.
00:07I do it with a big 8x10 camera, but I also do it with the medium format.
00:11The individuals whom we photograph for Kodak are all people who have worked
00:15with Kodak motion picture film, and do continue to today.
00:19For this series, which is called On Film, we've been doing one of them a
00:22month for 20 years.
00:24They are about 250 of them almost at this point, and it's quite a history, but
00:29it's all been done with film, and they've chosen to do it all in black and white.
00:34It's used in various places, but American Cinematographer is one of the
00:39magazines that you'll always find a cover, a back cover rather, from this work.
00:45Now we have different individuals here.
00:47These are the contact prints. Look at that.
00:49That's the size of the film.
00:51We use a loop, because we look down and we can see, make choices, and then
00:57when we make choices
00:59we mark them this way. And then our finals, we take a set of these to
01:05the client over at Kodak. We have got duplicates.
01:10We've made two contacts of each.
01:12I keep one, she keeps the other, and we both mark up our choices. And when the
01:17choice is made, I bring it back here,
01:20we scan it, and we do whatever retouching is necessary. And then what we do--and
01:25you'll watch me do it a little later-- is we size it exactly to the size that's
01:29going to be used, and we take it to them, and we deliver it to them, as they used to
01:33say as an old-fashioned expression, camera ready.
01:35I want you to come with us as we spend the afternoon working with a great
01:40cinematographer who is renowned and a legend in the world of motion pictures.
01:45His name is Owen Roizman.
01:48He is responsible for films such as French Connection and The Exorcist and
01:56many, many more, a great man. And you will watch as I come in and work with
02:01him and try to keep it fluid because my ultimate job is to get a great image.
02:07I must be able to do it with this camera, and the camera must be part of me,
02:11so I can concentrate on Owen and speak with him as I shoot. And part of the key
02:16will be being able to put your head into two places. You know what you have to
02:21do technically and you should do it, but you also have to connect with your
02:27subject--very, very important.
Collapse this transcript
Getting to know the Mamiya RZ67
00:00So here we are in our studio, and today I want to show you something about
00:04medium format, something that's been very important to me through my career.
00:08And today we are going to start with the RZ Mamiya, or some people call it the
00:11R Zed, and this is the basic camera.
00:15A camera like this is a little different than what you are accustomed to seeing.
00:18For one thing, we are looking straight down like that, and you might have a
00:21little trouble at first with it because things tend to move the opposite way,
00:24because there is a mirror inside here that you're looking at.
00:27However, we can use a pentaprism and make it the same as what you are accustomed
00:31to seeing with your 35 millimeters or similar digital camera.
00:36The way I do it is I have focus here and my finger is over here on this button.
00:41That's where I take the pictures from. And with this version of the camera, you
00:45do that and that moves the film forward and cocks the shutter each time. But this
00:50is the really cool thing, look at this.
00:53This is a bellows, and this is how we can shoot and focus, and we can get very close.
00:59I mean I can get in like that close, which is fantastic.
01:04And the other thing is the wheels are on both sides, so you can focus from
01:08either side. And beyond that, what's super cool is if you have a locked-down
01:14shot, like you are shooting a wonderful landscape or something, you can actually
01:18lock this, so it won't focus at all.
01:21That's at times, again with a landscape or something like that, very
01:25comfortable to know you can do it. Focus it perfectly and then lock it down.
01:29So let me show you what the back looks like.
01:32Here's the size of the film, 6x7 centimeters.
01:35If you want to call it inches, it's about 2 1/4 x 2 3/4 inches in size, but
01:41typically called 6x7 today.
01:43So on a 120 roll we get 10 frames each time we put a roll in.
01:48Let me show you one of those roll.
01:49This is a standard 120 film, probably the most common film used, and that's what
01:54we put in this. Or you can use the same film--
01:56it looks very similar to this--called 220.
01:59We simply put it in here, very simple, and not complicated.
02:04There it is, and you tear this and pull it around and slide it into the little slot
02:11here. Okay, it's there.
02:12See there are little arrows on the film? At that point, I'm ready to go.
02:17I bring it to there, and then I put this, the back, back on to the frame, close
02:22up, put the locks on.
02:25Now I simply roll it forward, like that, or there is a button I can push and
02:30have it done automatically, and it will stop at the right position.
02:34Now, this film which I've just loaded can go on to another camera. I can swap
02:38it with another back.
02:40I've got the slide in there.
02:42There is a little lever on the bottom. Lift it off and I can just swap the back
02:46that rapidly. And just some other things.
02:49Let's put a lens on this camera. Very simple. And I just put this on here.
02:54We have a little dot, very similar to all your SLRs, a similar camera, but
03:00one thing is different.
03:01There's a 50 on this 6x7 format, because the film is about twice the size of a 35-
03:07millimeter frame, the image created by a 50-millimeter lens would emulate
03:13or be very similar to what you get with a 25 on your 35-millimeter camera.
03:17Much wider, so this is a wide-angle lens.
03:21Let me show you the version that we actually use of this camera.
03:24I'm going to get one of them out, and once more, I'll put it back on the camera,
03:28Nothing complicated about it, a little lock down there in the bottom.
03:32There is a slide we pull out, put it in the back.
03:37Now, what do we have here?
03:38We have the same camera, with the same movements, but we have a motor on the
03:43bottom which advances the film.
03:45That's my secret, one of the secrets, because we can shoot just bing, bing, bing
03:49like that, and no time lost advancing the film. And this is a pentaprism up on top,
03:54which is how I prefer to work.
03:56Let me put on the lens we use more than anything else.
03:59You will see me use it when I shoot our subject in a few minutes.
04:04This is a zoom lens.
04:05Lenses like this are not that typical on a camera this size, but this one--
04:10remember the focal lengths, the numbers
04:12are all different--goes between 100 and 200 millimeter. And what that does,
04:18it allows me to work quite quickly and easily. And as I am doing here, I can
04:25focus very easily with this, and then I can also zoom. It's great.
04:31One lens does just about everything. And then ultimately, I want to show you the
04:36last very cool little trick here.
04:40We have the possibility just of rotating the back.
04:44So I am shooting horizontally.
04:46I instantly want it vertical. That's it.
04:48I don't even have to mention it with my subject.
04:50Now you might wonder why I work with a camera like this medium format film
04:55camera versus my 5D Mark II or similar digital camera, or why not put a
05:01digital back on here?
05:03Well, some clients want film--yes, believe it or not, they want film, I mean
05:08from all over the world. And don't walk away from film.
05:11Some people say, "Oh, you still have to shoot film? Do you know how to shoot film?"
05:15I urge you, if you're really interested in photography and want to take it the
05:19full max, know how it all works.
05:22So that's a quick tour of what we are going to be working with today. Very good.
05:27It's been very good to me and I love it.
05:29I've used Rolleiflexes and Hasselblads very well in the past, but I love this,
05:34and I love not having a square format.
05:37This is not digital.
05:39Yes, you can put a digital back on it, but I love it with its medium format film.
05:44That's the way I generally use this camera.
Collapse this transcript
Preparing for the shoot
00:00So here is our setup.
00:01This is the wonderful camera we are going to work with, which I have done
00:05through the years, always, on these images.
00:08We have a special tripod here.
00:10It's good for medium format because the camera is heavier, and this is the 100 to 200 zoom.
00:17It allows me to make more than one picture very quickly.
00:20I can shoot one waist and up and then quickly just swing over and I have his
00:24head and shoulders in a second. And frequently something like that really helps,
00:28because again, I hate to stop and be changing lenses if it's avoidable.
00:33I will stop if I need to get like a 50 wide-angle or something, but short of that
00:38I try to do most of it here, because again, always, Owen is the one who is going
00:43to get my attention here today.
00:44Actually, Jer, could you push the table and chair from the camera to your right?
00:51Okay, thank you. I am good.
00:52I just wanted to do that so I have a little more room here in this space.
00:56Normally, I don't have my subject-- today it's Owen--sit in until we are pretty
01:02much ready, because I don't want to wear him out with this. Sometimes people
01:06say, "I'd like to sit in," but I mean I want to save Owen his energy and everything
01:11for when we start shooting.
01:13So Jer, would you sit up a little higher please, maybe turn to the side.
01:15Yeah, that's cool, and lean your arm on there.
01:18That's good. See, there is a possibility of a picture right there.
01:21Since this is film, the only way we can fully anticipate what everything
01:25will look like, how the nuances of lightning and everything will work, is
01:29with the Polaroid back.
01:31Since this camera allows the magazines to come off and on, we just put the
01:34Polaroid on like this and there, it's locked.
01:38We pull the slide out, and we have a Polaroid camera basically here.
01:43Now, I want to say some of the reasons I do this.
01:46One, I don't worry about exposure.
01:48We get the exposure pretty accurately with our meter. So we know the exposure,
01:52but I wanted to see how the lights are working, because we are working with
01:55electronic flash, with spotlights, and various power from different heads
02:00coming from the power pack.
02:02Ultimately, I want to see exactly what all the lighting looks like, but you
02:06know, the other remaining thing, very important: Frankly, I can often enthuse
02:11a subject about the picture as I get excited and I look at the Polaroid and say, "Look at this.
02:16This is great, take a look!"
02:17And I give it to them to look at and that's part of it.
02:20So okay, okay, great!
02:23Okay, now I think it's about 20 seconds or something. What is that, 30 seconds?
02:27Female speaker: Yeah. Douglas: Might be slightly gray, because I'm pulling it too soon.
02:29Douglas: No, it looks good. Jeremy, you should go in the movies.
02:32You see, so there is the effect, right there.
02:34You can see the effect of the
02:35spot on the background, and so we are up and ready to go.
Collapse this transcript
Shooting a softbox portrait
00:00Douglas Kirkland: Hi Owen! Owen Roizman: Hey Douglas!
00:01Douglas: Hey how are you? I am glad we can do this today.
00:03Owen: Oh yeah. Douglas: We have done once or twice before;
00:05Douglas: I've been in front of your lens I think a few times.
00:07So Owen, we are going to do a Polaroid.
00:09Turn away from me just a little, yeah.
00:11That's right, maybe a little more, yeah. That's cool.
00:13That's nice, nice, nice, nice, great!
00:16If you don't mind, try the opposite side, swing the other way.
00:18You know, by the way, it's interesting,
00:20I like this side of Owen, because you will see a different look on different people.
00:25Frequently, like I have with my part I think on my hair this way, and if I was
00:30on this side, it might not be as good as if I was on that side. But you don't
00:34have to tell your subject about that; just observe it. Say to yourself, "Which is
00:39the best side?" Don't get into a big conversation about it, because remember,
00:43your subject may be very nervous.
00:45Nice, one, two, three, good. See how easy that was?
00:48Okay, this time I am timing 30 seconds, this time, so in a half a minute we'll
00:53see the result. And I feel pretty secure that this is going to work, so Miranda,
00:59could I have, yes, reset the diaphragm a little lower, and give me a roll please.
01:04Thank you Jeremy. And now, if Owen, or I, or anybody who is working with me
01:13doesn't like the Polaroid, we will make changes.
01:16The Polaroid is square.
01:18It's not framed vertically, as I am doing here, because most of the work that
01:23I do on this campaign, in fact, I think almost all of it--oh, there we are--has been vertical.
01:31Okay, here we are.
01:32Okay, what I like is this is our blocking shot, so to speak, because
01:39I will allow you to move around a little and everything as we get moving and shooting.
01:43I like the separation we are getting from the back light, and it's gray over here,
01:48just from the distance it is for marquee. And yes, you are right to observe
01:54that reflection on your glasses.
01:55I have been watching it very carefully, and how much fill light do we want?
01:59I want some, but I don't want it to be a one-to-one.
02:02I don't want you to be flat.
02:03But what I will do probably with my camera as we shoot is come in tighter,
02:08and you will be free to move around, but this basically shows you what our square one is.
02:16Owen: Great! Looks good to me Douglas.
02:18Douglas: Thank you. Am I hired? Can I keep my job? Owen: Yeah.
02:21Douglas: Thanks. Now what happens if you lean on a hand? No, I mean like so. Yeah, don't--
02:30by the away, anything I ask you to do that does not feel comfortable, just let
02:34me know, because the object here is to make you feel comfortable. Okay, just, that's good, that's good, that's good.
02:39There is frame one, now, okay great!
02:42And notice, I keep talking. I am not quiet.
02:45Oh, what you did, I just observed what you did there. Yeah, I love that. I love that. Yes, yes, yes.
02:50Now this is beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.
02:52Yeah, I just saw a natural move, and it's a wonderful one. I love that.
02:56I am coming in tight, because I want to get it really tight.
03:00I am on the long end.
03:01I am at 200 on the zoom, and you will see me focusing out there. Okay.
03:07This is good! This is a hotbed.
03:09I feel good! Oh, I feel really good.
03:11And Miranda, can you give me the 1x4 multiplier, please?
03:14I want to just go to a slightly longer lens.
03:15I am putting the 1x4 multiplier in, and I'll increase the
03:19exposure one stop with it. What does it do?
03:21It makes the 200-millimeter lens become a 280,
03:28Douglas: okay, and so one stop open. Miranda: So you're on eleven and half,
03:31Miranda: so I'm thinking you want eight and a half,
03:32Douglas: Yeah, thank you. You know, it's interesting how things evolve. And again, I am talking to you
03:38Owen, as well as my other friends out there, because--this is nice. This is nice.
03:43This is what really excites me about photography.
03:46I am may be photographing the most beautiful woman in the world, or a friend like
03:50Owen, but at this moment when it's really clicking, I really truly get excited.
03:57See, you'll notice me tipping the camera.
04:00Nowhere is it written that everything has to be up and down, because especially
04:04on a portrait like this, it's where the excitement--just imagine if you were
04:09cropping a print or something. Well, I am doing that in the camera.
04:12This is very, very special. Okay.
04:15Now ask yourself Mr. Photographer-- that's me at this moment--
04:18I always do, everything is locked down and wonderful. Owen is great.
04:23Everything he is doing--if you stay there, I'd appreciate it, but I am
04:26watching everything he does.
04:27Oh, consider what else, what happens if you push your glasses up for a
04:31moment? Just push them up.
04:33Look, yeah, yeah or put them up. Just lift them up, just lift them,
04:39Yeah, yes, yes, one hand, that's nice. That's nice, that's nice, that's nice.
04:43Now we found another picture here.
04:45And so, ask yourself a number of questions as you're shooting at this point.
04:50You say, is there something? Lift a little higher please, push them up
04:54a little. Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, that's wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!
04:58I am going to go wider. Just stay there, Owen, if you can, and then I'll do a Polaroid.
05:02What I am doing is seeing the great picture, but I am also saying to myself at
05:08all times, is there something I should be looking for beyond this?
05:12And that's part of the key. I am happy
05:16again once we see the crop vertically, and I've got a closer version as well.
05:22Douglas: I hope you like it--I do. Owen: Yeah!
05:28Douglas: and then we have a closer version when we come in
05:30really just on your face, because you have a great warmth in here which I love.
05:36Owen: It's very nice. Terrific, thank you. Douglas: So, thank you!
05:37Douglas: You know, we have done this two or three times before.
05:41I think today, strangely, and I mean this genuinely, we are going to have the
05:45best pictures ever.
05:46Owen: Thanks, well, we're finally learning. Douglas: Yeah, exactly, we keep practicing.
05:50Douglas: Here I am 20 years later, I should, because I think you were one of the first
05:53guys I photographed in this series, an early one, and then I photographed you
05:57Douglas: once or twice later, Owen: Yeah.
05:58Douglas: with your son, Eric, is that his name? Yeah, it was great! Owen: Yeah, yeah.
06:01Douglas: Eric, his son, is a wonderful cinematographer as well. It runs in the family. Anyway, great!
06:07Okay, let's go out. Let's take a break and do another setup.
Collapse this transcript
Shooting a profile portrait
00:00Douglas Kirkland: So what we are doing here is quite a different look than we have done with
00:04the soft boxes a few minutes ago.
00:06We have one soft box here on the bottom acting as a fill light, but fundamentally,
00:12we have this one sort of lighting, I'll call it coming-from-heaven-up-above
00:17lighting, which will become Owen's profile.
00:20One and a half there, and I want this much weaker.
00:25Douglas: Now, would you weaken this? Have you weakened this to a maximum? Miranda: Are they split?
00:28(inaudible speech)
00:30Douglas: Okay, then the next thing we will do is walk away with this. It's that simple.
00:35You have all of these controls.
00:36Actually, as strange as it may seem, our key is really right there.
00:41It's 11 1/2 there, in the shadow here.
00:44Now, it's more like it, it's 8.3.
00:47That's what I want, a full stop less there.
00:50And now let's see what we have here in the background.
00:51It's going to be pretty bright. It is bright.
00:55It's 16.3, which will be just fine.
00:59Okay, I think we are ready for--first let's bring our subject in. Okay, this is,
01:05I like what you are doing very much, very much, yes.
01:07Okay, now pull your glasses off and just keep them in your hand there.
01:12Yeah, that's great. That's nice, nice.
01:14I love what you are doing. You can even look down there, like you just did there.
01:17Owen Roizman: Do you have this in the shot?
01:18Douglas: Yeah, it is okay. It's fine. It's fine. It's okay, nothing is wrong. Okay, nice, wonderful.
01:23There is the Polaroid.
01:24I want you to see what we were doing.
01:27Douglas: It's a different look. Owen: Yeah. Mmhm.
01:30Douglas: It is going to be quite nice. Owen: Yeah, it is nice.
01:34It's a very different type of lighting.
01:36This key light up here gives us this back-light look, and of course, Owen sat
01:41down in an absolutely perfect way, and I love it. Guys, can you give
01:46me one grid wider on the background please, one click wider?
01:50I want to make this background spotlight bigger, which we can do.
01:55But I love the way you are seated there, so it's a very elegant, very special look.
02:02I hope you are not uncomfortable without your glasses.
02:04I mean you can wear glasses too. Let's do a few both ways.
02:08Owen: Most of the time the only time I put them on when I am in front of a camera is
02:12just to hide the bags a little more, but I know you've got that well taken care of.
02:17Douglas: Great, nice!
02:18Look up a little higher Owen. Yes, yes, even higher. Yeah, yeah, even up on the
02:21wall, yes, yes, nice, nice, nice, yeah, yeah.
02:24Now you can look a little happier for me, yes, yes, nice, nice.
02:28Now bring your glasses over and put them on actually, if you don't mind, since you--God!
02:34You look like you could be President of this company in a minute.
02:38Okay, now pull your glasses off and just hold them near your face, if you don't
02:43mind, and yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, a little happier, drop them a
02:47little there in front of your face, yes, yes, yes, nice, nice, nice, nice.
02:50I am going wide to the wide shot again.
02:53I am using that zoom lens, and I am going to see Owen's hand, even on the table.
03:00I love it, so I am getting two pictures out of one, basically.
03:04Now I see on my left I am just running out of background, and I am electing
03:08to cut it as close as I can because I know either I can also fix it in the
03:13Photoshop if I have to.
03:15Okay, now let's put a Polaroid in right now.
03:17I want everybody to see what we're-- if you don't mind, stay there for just a
03:20second, Owen, please.
03:22I want to do a Polaroid immediately, so everybody can share what we've done
03:26and immediately see it.
03:28I wouldn't necessarily do that again if I had a nervous young man or lady there,
03:35but with you--yes, yes, yes, yes. Okay, great, 30 seconds please.
03:42Okay, Owen there you are in the Polaroids.
03:44I am cropping this as it will be cropped, but I think it looks pretty cool.
03:48And then I get in, I zoomed in, again just to your head and shoulders, but
03:52these are the early ones, because I wanted to check the overall light. And this
03:56is, I mentioned that there was something on the edge.
03:59Douglas: When it's cropped vertically, you won't see that. Owen: Right.
04:02Douglas: But that's where we began.
04:05You know, the interesting thing is I've been doing this for 20 years--here, take that one home,
04:10Douglas: it isn't folded, if you like to. Owen: Thank you!
04:12Douglas: What's your impression of this overall campaign that Kodak has conducted?
04:19Owen: Yeah, I think it was wonderful!
04:20I mean especially in the light of the fact that we like to all see film stay in vogue.
04:27It was such a great medium.
04:28It is such a great medium still, and you made it so comfortable for everybody.
04:32I wanted to ask you a question. Were you ever intimidated by the fact that you
04:35are photographing people like cinematographers, like us, who really know what you are doing?
04:42Douglas: Truly no. You know what I do if I feel a moment of intimidation?
04:47I think to myself, my gosh!
04:50I handled Dietrich when she was kind of wild, and I was certainly nervous as a
04:55very young man in 1961 when I photographed Marilyn Monroe. And then I've
04:59gone all over the world, and if I can manage those days, I can certainly get through today.
05:05And so I do talk to myself that way in my head.
05:09Now what do you think?
05:10You've been on both ends of it, as cinematographer as well as stills. Do you have any
05:15philosophies like that?
05:16Owen: Well, I mean the main thing I am going for is I want to get the personalities.
05:20I want to get into their souls.
05:22To me, the way you do that is through the eyes. The eyes are the most important thing.
05:28So I always try to light in--when I am lighting, I try to have in mind how the
05:34eyes are going to look.
05:34Douglas: It's interesting! I was watching your eyes.
05:36That's why I kept moving this light and everything, because I wanted to see the
05:39Douglas: sparkle in both eyes, not just in one, and I did. Owen: Right.
05:43Owen: Then of course, I think okay, what's going to be the best light for this face?
05:48Because every face is different, as you know. And so I start with the eyes,
05:53then I think about the face and the personality, and what kind of expression
05:58is going to bring out that personality that I know?
06:01If it's somebody whose personality I am not sure of, I'll start to play around
06:05with them and ask them to do silly things and things like that, to see how
06:08their expressions look.
06:09Douglas: Did you find some of your subjects are nervous and stiff?
06:12Owen: Most of them are. It's amazing that cinematographers get in front of a camera and they
06:18don't know what to do.
06:19They are stiff, and it's a matter of loosening them up.
06:23Douglas: You've got a harder job than I have Owen. You really do.
06:26Douglas: You have head, and anyway-- Owen: It's all relative.
06:30Douglas: Anyway, it's On photography. We love it, and the On Film series that I've worked with Kodak on, and with
06:36friends such as Owen, has been very gratifying for me.
06:41Anyway, so we want to make the most of the opportunities we have, and I want to
06:45say one other thing.
06:46You make the images. Just lighting Owen today, I feel really energized.
06:52I mean, the soft boxes were great, and that's a wonderful look.
06:57But again, there is a different type creativity in what we've just used.
07:00You have such possibilities.
07:01Use them, make the most of it, and keep enjoying photography.
Collapse this transcript
Softbox portrait critique
00:00I feel the shoot with Owen went really well. He is a great subject, and I
00:05want to really just show you some of the things that we did, and go through the process.
00:09We shot with a Polaroid to begin with, because that's the only way you can
00:13really see what you are getting with a film camera.
00:15Let can't look in the back of the camera. It's not there.
00:19So we do Polaroids like this, and when we do Polaroids, we look at a number of
00:23things--first the lighting.
00:25Here I'm using two soft boxes. There is one, the key soft box,
00:28that's really just above the lens, and that's the overall light. And then there is
00:33another one that's very weak down below, and you can just see a little twinkle
00:36in his eye from that one. But in the background, about two or three yards back, we
00:41have a spotlight on the background, just to give this slightly bright glow and
00:46darken the edges slightly.
00:48But there is one remaining element that I want to talk about because I felt it
00:52very much as I was looking through the camera, and I had to make choices.
00:58Right here you'll see a shine on his glasses.
01:01Now 20 or 30 years ago, before we had Photoshop, like we have it today, or maybe a
01:06little more than that,
01:09I would've had to make a choice: can I accept that or would I try it and get him
01:13to wiggle the glasses around or take the glasses off?
01:17I wanted to keep the shoot going smoothly because I knew that later with
01:21Photoshop, I can remove that shine on his glasses.
01:24So that's an elected choice, and it keeps the continuity going.
01:28So that was what I got on a Polaroid.
01:31So there is the lighting, and then we had the film processed, and we made what we
01:37call--or had the lab make at least--what they call a contact sheet.
01:41What is a contact sheet?
01:42Basically it's when they lay all the negatives on photographic paper, put it in
01:47a printer, and make a group shot like this of all the pictures you took.
01:52And you get these back and you have a loop, or magnifying glass, and you look at them carefully.
01:57I like these very much, and my choices were these three.
02:02And the interesting thing, I like the tightness of these, but some are them, when I
02:06was looking through the loop, I saw that there was slightly more warmth coming
02:11in that picture here, so that was my choice.
02:15It wasn't quite as close an image as I would've liked that I had in some of the
02:19others that I'd shot.
02:20Those didn't have quite the same feel. But again since it was medium format, I
02:25knew I could safely crop in without a problem, and that's exactly what I did.
02:31And this is our scan here, and now we've digitized it.
02:33We are into the digital world, and this is where we can do our tweaks and refinements.
02:38So the first thing I knew I needed to do was fix this little shine in the
02:43glasses because that gave me this wonderful image.
02:46Now what I wanted to do is lighten all these lines, not take them away, but keep it real.
02:52Just make them, diminish them and make them more gentle, because we don't want
02:57people to look like an egg. We want them to look real, but we don't--
03:01The interesting thing is the human eye tends to see fewer wrinkles than the camera,
03:06so that's where we delicately use retouching to soften them.
03:10At this point, the most major change I thought I should make was to add
03:14vignetting because it directs the eye in the center.
03:16That is the final refinement, or elevation, of an image.
03:20This gives it a very special professional artistic feeling.
03:25It gives me this solid black down here, and you see that little shine is
03:29removed from the watch.
03:30This is the final image.
03:32I am giving Owen a print that he'll probably have on his coffee table for, or
03:36piano, for many years, because I know he'll like it.
03:39This is my favorite image, but let's look at what it looked like in the ad.
03:44It looks really cool because we've got the shape,
03:46we have the space here to put his signature in, and there is the ad.
03:51That's what I care about, and this is the wonderful thing.
03:53I'm so delighted to be a work with medium format and make pictures like this of Owen.
Collapse this transcript
Profile portrait critique
00:00Another of the looks I created with Owen was what I call a classic profile
00:05look, done with direct light.
00:07Here's one of our Polaroids, and I did this first with his glasses off, and
00:10there's just a very kind look on his face.
00:12I love this man, and that's the kind of a guy he is, but that's what we want to get.
00:16So here's another version, for example. But ultimately, I decided it was probably
00:20better without the glasses on. But I tried them both ways, so here it is, and the
00:25Polaroid is our last look before we take pictures. Unlike the digital camera,
00:29there is nothing looking in the back. So let's go and look at what the contact
00:32sheet looked like when it came through.
00:34But at a certain point I thought, "Let's try his glasses on, because maybe it looks
00:39more natural with his glasses," and I looked with a loop, or magnifying glass, and
00:44ultimately, I look carefully obviously and always focus and everything, and I
00:49selected this one. And what I loved about it was there is a warmth and a
00:54naturalness about his face. And when I was shooting I remember vividly bringing
00:59this back spotlight in so it just got the light into his eyes.
01:04There is a sense of twinkle, and that's-- you know, often when you're at the camera,
01:09you can sense just one little millimeter one way or number makes a difference,
01:14and that's what I felt in the camera. And that's also what I felt this image
01:18brought is that warmth that this man really has.
01:21So from this point, we did a scan on it, we used an Imacon scanner. And this is
01:27basically image, but I want to share with you is now something special, as a
01:31photographer, photogrative photographer, that I looked at Owen, whom I have a
01:36great affection for, and as I have mentioned also, I always want everybody to look
01:40as good as possible.
01:41So I want to mention a couple of things that I did, why I did them,
01:45and you know another thing is I will never normally tell anybody that I've done these things.
01:49So I look critically with a critical eye, as I do through the camera often, and I
01:54saw that Owen's ear there looked a little big.
01:56Now when I was shooting it maybe I would have, could have put that in a little
01:59more shadow or something.
02:00I can still do it here. And the another thing I had to think about was, will it
02:05fit the format, because the image space that I have available is comparatively
02:11narrow, but more importantly than anything, anybody who is over 40, which I
02:17am kind of over 40, little of this happens.
02:19So the ear is made small.
02:21Now again, I don't talk about these things; I just do them.
02:24If somebody says to me, "Did you do any work with my picture?" I always deny it.
02:27I say, "No, no, no. That's just you, you're wonderful," because truthfully they don't want
02:31to see the unretouched version. Don't show it to them.
02:34I had to bring his hand in, again, to fit the format, and again you get this
02:38wonderful warmth again that you can get with film.
02:41You can't quite match that any other way.
02:44And then it goes on to the final image.
02:46I feel it all works.
02:47I unfortunately had to cut off the fingers a little to fit into this
02:50shape, and that's one of the things we as professionals really realize when you
02:54are working sometimes for publications, and certainly advertising: you do have
02:57to conform to a specific format, and we've done, we added some black to the
03:02bottom so we could expand it. And then of course I always get a signature to
03:07put in, and I was able to put that in quite easily after the fact. And I feel this works.
03:13This is my friend Owen, and this picture, this ad will be seen worldwide
03:19and I feel it's successful. It's the look of the direct light on Owen, and it's a
03:26really a profile. And again, I just watch the light come into his eyes, and I feel
03:31that, for me, is the success of this image.
03:33I love working with the medium format camera on an image like this, a great
03:37picture like this, and it really always works.
03:40That's the beauty of film and the medium format.
Collapse this transcript
Composing an image for layout
00:00In publishing you have to think of the final destination of your image.
00:04I want to give you an example.
00:06We start with a template on the Kodak series, and frankly, what we do is this
00:12helps us recompose and get the refinement of the final image.
00:16I give you as an example, we have a mask, a channel mask, which is here.
00:21Now what this means is the picture will fit into this precise area, and that's
00:26what we are working around. And this is really quite empowering and wonderful
00:30to be able to do this.
00:31This is like a dream for me, because this did not always exist.
00:34So there is the image, the final retouched image that I have all the way I like.
00:40Now we can put this into the ad, and there you have it, but what I don't like is
00:47that it's too big, but we still have the capability of moving it around and
00:51recomposing. For example, we can make it smaller.
00:54Now, this works better, and we have space to put his signature across the bottom,
00:58which we need to do. And again, you're seeing this kind, beautiful face right in
01:03the center where I like it.
01:04Great, it is so empowering, and these are the best of times, and again, with the
01:096x7 format, you have such capability.
01:13I want to show you something else that's really wonderful and truly exciting.
01:17See that picture we had there a second ago?
01:20We have the capability to recompose it, and we can enlarge it without any real
01:25loss, because we're starting with this large piece of film, by today's terms,
01:30and we can bring it up.
01:31You have no grain, or noise if you prefer, and no deterioration of image because
01:37probably this piece of film was even bigger than 35 millimeter, coming from a
01:40medium format in the beginning.
01:43So we have the image here, as I love, except there's one thing that I care
01:49about, artistically.
01:50I know that something isn't quite right because this line here, from a
01:55composition standpoint, should commence right here and come up here, but we can do that.
02:00We can rotate the image. We have all that capability.
02:04It's quite extraordinary what we can do, and again this is a result of starting
02:09with a medium format image, and this is where the richness and power is of what
02:13we have available to us today.
Collapse this transcript
About the Author
Meet Douglas Kirkland
00:00(music playing)
00:06I grew up in a small town in Canada, only 7,000 people.
00:11The first picture I ever took was taken with a box camera, a Brownie box camera,
00:16and I remember pushing it into my chest, ten years of age at the time, and
00:20pushing that device down, and it went clunk. I got the buzz right then and it's
00:26never stopped since.
00:27Now Speed Graphic was the camera of the time, and if you had this in your hand,
00:34as a young man, I have to tell you, you really felt you were hot.
00:38Turn this way, that way.
00:40I mean that was a charge like nothing else.
00:45I got a call from Look magazine, and I was basically hired to shoot fashion, and I
00:53was the new generation.
00:54I was in my mid-20s. The year was 1960. And then my boss in New York called me
01:00and he said, "We'd like you to go Las Vegas with our movie editor because
01:05Elizabeth Taylor, who hasn't been photographed or had a story done on her for
01:08about two or three years now, has said she will give us an interview."
01:12I sat quietly in the back of the room as the journalist interviewed her, and I
01:19went up to her at the end and I took her hand and I said, "Elizabeth, I am new
01:25with this magazine," looking straight here straight in the eye, just like I am you, "could
01:30you imagine what it would mean to me if you would give me an opportunity to photograph you?"
01:35I was holding her hand still.
01:37Pause. She probably thought she was never going to be released, and then she said,
01:44"Okay, come tomorrow night at 8:30."
01:47To make a long story short, I did, and I got pictures that ended up really
01:53starting my career of photographing celebrities.
01:56I had the cover of Look magazine, my first cover, and from then it was like an
02:01explosion of possibilities.
02:04This camera is the one that I actually used to photograph Marilyn Monroe, this
02:08very camera, this 500C.
02:11We went to visit her in her Hollywood home.
02:14It was this camera, myself, Marilyn, a wonderful photo session that went on for
02:19about three or four hours.
02:21I feel a great attachment to this.
02:22I have been very careful to hold on to my images. Ever since then, I was always
02:30able to keep my pictures, so that's why I have all these books, 15 in all at
02:35the moment, I believe.
02:36I am best known for my work around entertainment, and these are work from the movies.
02:41They are different times, different places.
02:44I have worked on 160 films in all, by our last count.
02:50For me, one of the most significant and important areas of working with people is
02:55to know your subject, feel sympathetic toward them.
02:59You have to feel that I care about you, and I do. Boy do I ever!
03:04Because I know that what you have in you is going to make a great image, and
03:09honestly, you can have any lens in the world or any type of camera, but if you
03:14don't have a subject who's connecting with you, your chances are
03:17substantially reduced of getting a good image.
03:22I learned from a lot of different sources and resources certainly and
03:27photography in the early days and later on with computers.
03:30I asked a lot of people a lot of questions, and I had a lot of wonderful people
03:34help me. And frankly, years ago, somebody gave me a lesson that I've really held
03:39on to, and I feel this way very strongly:
03:43do the same for somebody else.
03:46When you receive something good, just pass it along, and I hope that you get out
03:51of this something special, and I am trying to pass it along to you. I care about it.
03:56I hope you do.
03:57(music playing)
Collapse this transcript


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