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Hyperlapse = time lapse + camera movement. You can get the effect by moving your tripod manually or along a track, but shooting hyperlapse from a moving vehicle is the one guaranteed way to get really dramatic time-lapse footage. And it doesn't take a lot of gear. In this course, Rich Harrington introduces the equipment you need and the techniques you should use to capture great hyperlapse sequences, as he travels around the Nevada desert during the day and captures the bright lights/big city of Vegas at night. When he returns to the studio, he shares his post-processing tips in Adobe Camera Raw, Premiere Pro, and After Effects.
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One of the challenges you'll always face when shooting through a glass window is reflections. And I have to be careful in a moving car. Sure, sometimes when shooting through glass I'll use things like a lens skirt, or I'll build up some sort of way to build a cone for it to shoot through. But this was kind of tough. I couldn't get the camera close enough to the glass, so I had to be a bit further back. So finding the right balance was tricky. Same thing here with the GoPro. Now, hopefully, the reflections aren't going to be too bad.
We've got a couple of strategies that we can take advantage of. First off, because we're shooting through the glass here, one of the things that works out well is that I'm at the same angle as the line of sight. This is naturally going to work pretty well, because the glass is actually designed to minimize reflections because it's at an angle, and that's going to help. Additionally, if you do have problems with reflections, you can try a polarizer or a circle polarizer to adjust until you get the proper reflections knocked out. That's alright.
And then the rest of the way is just a matter of making sure that the area in front of the camera doesn't have a lot of reflections. Now the good news with this car is we got one that had sort of a black surface. But even still there was a bit of reflections up there of some of the vents reflecting into the glass. So, what I did was real simple. I just took a piece of felt and pushed it into the dash there, to sort of cut down on the reflections. This way, some of the little textures, the speaker grills, the air-conditioning vents, aren't reflected up into the glass.
Makes it really easy to control what's happening. Looks like that's going to work pretty well. And as I look at some of my test shots here, I'm really seein' no problems. Remember, after you take that test shot, you can open it up and zoom into the image a bit and use the controls on your camera to pan around. What I'm looking for is to make sure that there are no major reflections. And I must say, I'm pretty happy with what's going on here. The good news is, is that most dashboard windows, by their very nature of working well for the driver, are not going to be prone to reflections.
And if you have any problems, just buff out the window to remove any smudges that you might have on the glass, so you've got a clean surface to shoot through.
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