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Advanced Craft Photography

Advanced Craft Photography

with Megan Andersen

 


The handmade nation is growing rapidly. Whether you are a blogger or a hobbyist, or thinking about taking the leap and becoming a professional crafter, you should know not only the basics of digital photography and product staging, but also the tips, tools, and tricks that professionals use to get the most compelling shots. In this workshop, Megan Andersen, aka Radmegan, shares advanced techniques for craft photography, diving deep into camera settings, composition, and staging. Learn how to use different lens options and effects, shoot outside or in low light, and work around common frustrations like greenish-yellow hues from fluorescent lighting and distracting reflections on shiny surfaces. The course doesn't just cover photography though—Megan also looks at image editing with Adobe Photoshop, discusses online portfolios and books, and shares lots of cool projects to help you have fun while you're learning.
Topics include:
  • Beyond the basic camera settings
  • Advanced composition and staging techniques
  • Image editing in Photoshop and Lightroom
  • Shooting for a client
  • Caring for your gear
  • Keeping it simple

show more

author
Megan Andersen
subject
Photography, Cameras + Gear, Lighting, video2brain
level
Advanced
duration
2h 33m
released
Oct 05, 2011

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Introduction
Welcome
00:00 (music playing)
00:04 Hi, I'm Megan Andersen-Reed. I'm a professional craft blogger,
00:07 instructor, writer and photographer. I've always loved taking photographs, but
00:11 when I decided to make a living off my first love, crafting, I knew I needed to
00:14 step up my photography in a big way. Making things by hand takes an awful lot
00:20 of skill, care, time and practice, but without a good photograph of your
00:23 handiwork to convey all that, prospective buyers will quickly move on to the next
00:27 big thing. One of the special things about handmade
00:31 crafts is the feeling they give you. Not necessarily the tactile experience of
00:35 the fibers against your skin, but the feeling you get when you look at a
00:38 handcrafted hat, a bowl, a candle, etcetera.
00:42 And you immediately understand where it was made, why, and how.
00:46 There's a story behind every project. And with several photographic techniques
00:50 and best practices, like how to read and understand light, finding the ideal
00:54 backdrop, or adding the element of motion.
00:57 You can provide that all-important, in-person feeling through a still image.
01:02 In these lessons, I'll take you step by step through the advanced techniques of
01:05 craft photography. We'll dive deep into camera settings,
01:09 composition and staging. We'll talk about color and light, and how
01:13 to work around some very common frustrations like greenish yellow hues
01:16 from fluorescent lighting and distracting reflections on shiny surfaces.
01:22 In fact, I'll share some great tips for staging crafts of all different textures.
01:27 We'll talk about different lens options and effects, animate some still images,
01:30 working low light, movie light, and I'll even show you some of my favorite image
01:34 editing tips and techniques. We'll even discuss shooting photos for
01:40 clients and creating portfolios. Most the images I use in these lessons
01:43 are included in the project files folder so you can follow along and practice the
01:47 techniques we'll learn. Whether you are trying to improve the
01:51 quality of your craft photos to sell or blog about, or looking for ways to really
01:54 take your craft photography to the next level.
01:57 I hope that after watching these lessons, you'll be excited to try out and practice
02:00 the techniques I've covered here. I've really enjoyed creating these video
02:05 tutorials and I hope you find them informative and interesting.
02:09 Thanks.
02:09
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1. Beyond the Basic Camera Settings
Foundations of composition and staging
00:01 Understanding the foundations of composition and how to really use staging
00:06 to your advantage are going to be things that really help you bring out the
00:10 personality and the care that you've put into your handmade crafts.
00:17 So In this movie, we're just going to briefly cover some of the composition
00:21 techniques that are taught in depth within the beginning craft photography course.
00:28 So, if any of these terms and techniques are either unfamiliar to you or if you
00:32 are looking for a refresher course, then I would check out maybe the beginning
00:36 craft photography class that I have also recorded.
00:41 That said, if you're not looking for a refresher, I'm just going to quickly go
00:44 over a couple of the foundations of composition that I like to use just to
00:48 really highlight my crafts. And the first one I want to discuss is framing.
00:55 And so, in this photograph on your screen right now, I have an image of a pumpkin
00:59 puzzle I created, and I frame this image in such a way that it's almost completely
01:03 out of the frame when you look through the viewfinder.
01:10 Now, I wanted to do that because I liked the bright vibrant colors of the craft.
01:15 But I also wanted to shoot it at this angle.
01:17 So that you could see it's got a little bit of dimension and depth.
01:21 And you'll notice, too, that there's a piece missing.
01:23 So you can see that it's a layered craft piece.
01:26 You can also see some little detail over here.
01:28 So you get a sense for how it's made. But after taking several photographs of
01:34 this individual craft, this flat craft. Framing became a very important component
01:40 when it came to finding the perfect composition to highlight this particular craft.
01:47 Now for another craft I have here, this Valentine's Day pop-up card, this has a
01:50 little bit of dimension to it and since it's a lighter craft I shot it against a
01:53 very dark background; I wanted to show that it was in the process of popping up.
02:00 And as I did that, I created this really interesting negative space.
02:05 And negative space is another foundation of composition that's really going to
02:09 help you set off your craft if you know how to use it.
02:14 In my opinion it's underutilized, but I think that using negative space when it's
02:18 appropriate is a really cool way to offset and highlight some of the features
02:21 of your individual crafts. Now, while framing has a lot to do with
02:27 how you hold the camera, and creating negative space has a lot to do with the
02:31 contrast of light and the background you choose.
02:36 When you create lines with your craft, you're physically staging them in a way
02:40 that when you look through the viewfinder, your viewer's eye is going to
02:44 travel through the composition of your image.
02:49 And I've got an example of that on screen right now.
02:51 I've made these little snail shell candles.
02:54 And I wanted to set them up just to kind of bring the viewer's eye all the way
02:57 through the composition. I also really like using lines in order
03:01 to show off, or highlight, a collection of crafts that I've made, so if I have
03:05 more than one or two, I'll often just line them up so that I can show off how
03:09 many there are. So creating lines is actually something
03:14 that you physically need to do. It's physically staged when you are
03:18 setting up the shot. And sometimes that can really bring an
03:22 extra component of artistic quality to the photograph.
03:27 Because you are an active participant. You 're deciding where each individual
03:32 craft needs to go. So by creating lines, you are, you're
03:36 participating even more within your craft photography.
03:40 Finally, by using the rule of thirds. You can create a really harmonious and
03:46 balanced composition of your crafts. And it does a very, very powerful job
03:52 leading the viewer's eye right to the focal point.
03:57 Right to the, the focus of your craft. And that can be a very powerful thing.
04:02 It's very easy to spot and to use once you understand it.
04:05 So that's just one of the many composition techniques that you can use
04:09 to improve your craft photography. And again, if any of these terms are
04:14 slightly unfamiliar, or you could use a refresher course and really go in depth
04:18 with each of these items, then I would encourage you to check out the beginning
04:21 course on craft photography.
04:25
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Foundations of ISO, aperture, and shutter speed
00:00 By understanding the foundations of Aperture, ISO, and Shutter Speed, you'll
00:04 be prepared for any and every photographic challenge.
00:08 In this video, I'm going to review these three topics.
00:11 Now, if you feel like you need a more in depth look at Aperture, Shutter Speed and
00:15 ISO, or if you feel like you need a refresher course perhaps.
00:20 I would suggest checking out the Beginning Craft Photography course that I
00:24 recorded, as well as this one. Now, if you think that you've got a good
00:29 grasp, then that's terrific. I'm just going to move on and just very
00:33 briefly cover each of these three items that makes up the exposure triangle, and
00:37 how it reflects on your craft photography.
00:41 The first example we're looking at right now is an image of some felted heart pins
00:45 that I created. And the reason I've got this photo up
00:49 right now is because it's a great example of a photograph with really, really deep
00:52 depth of field. Now, if we wanted to see a photograph of
00:57 the exact same scenario with a very shallow depth of field, we would look at this.
01:03 Now, of course, to achieve this very shallow depth of field, the only thing we
01:06 did was really change the Aperture Setting on our camera.
01:11 Everything else stayed the same. The Shutter Speed, the ISO, those were constant.
01:15 But by changing the Aperture, we were able to get this nice shallow depth of
01:18 field where the foreground is out of focus, as well as the background.
01:22 And really, the focus of the image is just the craft itself.
01:26 And while knowing how to adjust your Aperture can change your depth of field,
01:29 knowing how to change your ISO can really give you great results in low lighting.
01:35 For example, this pair of high heels was shot in a room with very, very limited light.
01:40 There was really only one light source. And by kicking up the ISO, we were able
01:45 to get a really nice detailed shot of the craft.
01:49 So, understanding how your ISO works can really help you achieve those nice,
01:53 finished craft photographs regardless of the lighting situation.
01:58 But there are a few things to think about when you're using high ISO.
02:02 And if you don't feel super comfortable changing your ISO, you might want to
02:05 check out the beginner course. But for everybody else, if you feel
02:10 comfortable using your ISO, you know which situations you need to change it in.
02:15 And what you want to look out for when you're using it, then we'll move right
02:18 along to the third factor in getting great exposure, which is Shutter Speed.
02:23 And of course, Shutter Speed does control time.
02:26 So, with a good understanding of how to use Shutter Speed, you can show the
02:30 movement of a craft. And that's always a great thing if you're
02:34 selling or just blogging about a craft that does have moving parts.
02:38 Showing off those moving parts is a really cool technique, and using Shutter
02:42 Speed to your full advantage is really going to get you some exciting shots.
02:47 So, these are the foundations of getting really good exposure, understanding ISO,
02:51 Aperture and Shutter Speed. And how you would use each one in
02:54 different situations to get the most out of your craft photography.
02:58
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Camera Raw: What? when? why?
00:01 I recently shot a craft. I was doing an article for a magazine,
00:05 and the theme was birthday crafts. So, the craft that I had set up was this
00:09 really cool banner. We figured out a way to make these two
00:13 posts, stick it in the ground. And the whole point was to thave this big
00:17 birthday banner so that the birthday boy could run through it, break through it.
00:21 And just have a very exciting way to enter his birthday party.
00:25 It was really cool. But since we had to stick the banner in
00:28 the ground and keep it in a static position, we were kind of at the mercy of
00:32 all the light around us. So, as we were taking pictures, we
00:37 noticed that this huge shadow started moving over the banner.
00:41 And it got very, very bright behind where the birthday boy was going to be.
00:47 In that situation, you really have to think about various exposure options but
00:52 one great solution for kind of tricky lighting is shooting in raw.
00:57 So, most, or actually all digital SLRs have the capability of shooting in raw.
01:03 And what that is, it's basically a way for your camera to receive all of the
01:08 light information into its digital sensor and give you that exact same raw data.
01:15 When we normally shoot crafts, we shoot in JPEG.
01:18 And JPEG is great. But it does a lot of compression in your camera.
01:23 The camera itself is shooting in raw. But when you flip the switch and choose
01:26 to shoot in JPEG, your camera is deciding to make all of these various compression changes.
01:32 It's accounting white balance, it's accounting for color saturation.
01:36 There's a lot of things going on behind the scenes to give you your JPG.
01:40 And what's great about that is that you can shoot a ton of pictures on one
01:43 individual card. But when you're shooting in raw, you're
01:47 getting exactly what the camera saw. And you have this huge file with so much data.
01:55 But it's up to you to figure out how to process it.
01:57 So, in the case of the birthday banner, since the lighting was so tricky, we
02:02 decided to shoot with raw so we could capture as much of that data as possible.
02:08 Now, the thing with shooting in raw is that you can't just plug your camera into
02:12 your computer and print that photo. A raw image is kind of like an image.
02:17 Well, it's kind of like a photographic negative, if you remember shooting in film.
02:23 That information is there, but it's up to you to develop it in your perfect
02:27 aesthetic way. And the cool thing about raw also is that
02:31 when you are editing it in your software afterwards, the raw file actually isn't compromised.
02:38 You can take one raw file and manipulate it in several different ways, and all
02:42 that original data stays intact. You do actually need to have a special
02:48 application to process a raw image. You can't just pop it into iPhoto or
02:54 Photoshop Elements, I'm not sure. But the, the Adobe Photoshop CS5 and
03:00 higher does have a raw converter built in.
03:04 If you don't have Photoshop at all or if you have a lower version of Photoshop,
03:07 then you might want to look online. There are bunch of different plugins and
03:11 different applications that you can buy to, to process your raw file.
03:15 I'm going to take a shot over here, though.
03:17 Because while I don't have a craft in front of me, I do, I am getting some
03:20 interesting different shades of grey. And the light is hitting the the bark of
03:26 this tree in an interesting way. So, I'm going to take a couple of shots.
03:30 And then, have fun processing those later.
03:32 It's not a craft, but it's just a fun way to show you the capabilities of shooting
03:35 in raw. So, let's zoom in here and see what we
03:38 can get. Now, I'm shooting and my image is just a
03:43 little bit darker than I'd like. So, I'm just going to change my setting a
03:48 little bit. But the great thing about raw is that all
03:52 of the data that is being captured, right here, I can manipulate later.
03:57 I can change, I can boost the contrast. I can make the colors really pop, and
04:02 it's all because everything is in my file.
04:05 So, the last thing I'm going to tell you is that when you're shooting in raw, if
04:09 you are not really sure you want to have that huge file because you don't know if
04:13 it's worth it or not. You don't know if that raw file is really
04:19 robust enough for you to decide to make the decision to just go from JPEG to raw.
04:25 There is an option on your, on your camera to shoot in raw and JPEG.
04:30 So, what's cool about that is that you can shoot in raw, but that it also gives
04:33 you a JPEG file in addition so you can play with both of those independently.
04:37 It's up to you. You can just switch it to raw and just
04:40 shoot in raw, you can stay in JPEG. Or if you want to try it out, you can
04:44 have that other option to shoot both and then see the difference for yourself.
04:49 It makes a really challenging craft photo setting a little bit easier to manage,
04:52 and it's a pretty cool tool. Camera Raw.
05:06
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How bracketing can save your exposure
00:00 Bracketing is a technique that photographers will use to ensure that
00:04 they're getting a good exposure in their photography.
00:08 And in our case, craft photography. So, I have an image here on the screen
00:13 that I took several photographs of before I found my perfect exposure.
00:18 And I know that I have a great exposure because if I open up the Curve palette, I
00:22 can see that it's got distribution between dark and light.
00:27 And if I open up my levels, I can also see here that in this histogram, there's
00:31 a nice distribution between the darks and the lights in this image.
00:35 But how did I achieve this? It took me awhile to figure out exactly
00:39 what exposure I wanted to get when I was shooting these rings.
00:43 Because I was in a very dark wooded area, and there was dappled light.
00:48 So, when you're in a situation with tricky lighting, bracketing is a
00:51 technique that can help you find your perfect exposure with just a few simple steps.
00:57 Now, the first image I took of these rings is obviously way too dark.
01:02 It's basically unusable. But there's some interesting information
01:07 here, and that helps me find out where I am in my exposure spectrum, and what I
01:12 need to change. By paying attention to my F-Stop, my ISO,
01:17 and my Shutter Speed, I can figure out exactly which way I want to go to get a
01:21 lighter brighter image. So, I was shooting on a tripod.
01:26 Because again, it was a very dark area. And I had my F-Stop fixed at 5.0.
01:32 I wanted a nice wide Aperture so I could get a good depth of field.
01:36 I kept my ISO at 100 just because I wanted to keep that constant as well, and
01:40 I only wanted to focus on changing the Shutter Speed.
01:44 So, my first image had a relatively quick Shutter Speed, and this was my result.
01:49 So I had a decision to make, too dark, what do I do?
01:52 Well, I wanted to slow down my Shutter Speed a little bit.
01:56 And it's okay to do this because I was shooting on a tripod.
01:59 So, it wasn't going to get terribly shaky.
02:02 So, the next image that I took is a little bit brighter.
02:05 And that's because I just slowed down my Shutter Speed just a little bit.
02:09 You can see now I'm shooting at a Shutter Speed of 100 and 25th of a second.
02:14 So, just a little bit slower but a considerable amount of brightness has
02:18 increased here. So, it's okay but not great, so we need
02:21 to slow down the Shutter Speed even more. Now, I mean business.
02:27 I didn't want to waste any more time just going down increment by increment, just
02:30 slowly changing my Shutter Speed. So, I thought I'd really give it a good
02:34 crank and see what I got. So, this is a much slower Shutter Speed
02:38 I'm shooting at a 40th of a second, and I really like what I'm seeing.
02:42 I'm just going to do a little bit more bracketing to see if I can get an even
02:45 better exposure. But from where I'm sitting now, I like
02:48 the way it looks, and I feel like I've got a very good balance of dark darks and
02:51 light lights. But I'm just going to take another shot
02:54 and see if I even like it better. And I could push the Shutter Speed even
02:58 slower and get into an extremely over exposed bracketing if I wanted to show
03:02 the full, full range. From very, very over exposed to very,
03:07 very under exposed and vice versa. But for the sake of this movie, we'll
03:11 just try one more setting and see if that's going to do the trick for us.
03:17 Now, in my opinion it does. I've slowed down the Shutter Speed just a
03:21 little bit more, and here I am at 1 32nd Shutter Speed, and I really like what I'm
03:24 seeing here. It's got a nice exposure.
03:28 I see a lot of dark darks, I see some nice light lights, but I'm not losing any
03:31 information, I'm not losing any data. Now, I'm keeping these settings on screen
03:35 just for the purpose of illustrating how we were changing the settings while we
03:39 were shooting. But this certainly is not something that
03:42 you should just live by. You know, you shouldn't just say oh,
03:46 well, I'm shooting in the forest, so of course, I need to have F-5, ISO 100, and
03:50 1 32nd Shutter Speed. That's not, that's not always going to be
03:55 the case. And in fact, while I was shooting this
03:58 series, the sun was changing, dappled light was, was a factor.
04:02 Areas of shade would pass through the frame.
04:05 Areas of light would pass through the frame.
04:06 So, while I think that this image looks better than it did at a 40th of a second,
04:11 1 40th of a second also looked a little bit too bright for me.
04:17 So, that could have been because things were changing, maybe it was brighter when
04:22 I snapped that shot in that instant. That's the thing with bracketing your
04:27 elements are always going to change. Your light is always going to be a
04:31 variable and the only thing that you have to have as a constant is your F-Stop and
04:35 your ISO. You just change your Shutter Speed, then
04:39 that's going to help you take in different amount of light and really try
04:42 and find a happy medium. Where you're getting what you think is a
04:46 good exposure. Also, you might not think that the image
04:50 that you've just taken on your camera is the perfect image until you get back and
04:54 download it to your computer. It might look much better on screen than
04:59 you thought it did in your View Finder or vice versa.
05:02 So definitely, when you're shooting when you're looking for your perfect exposure,
05:07 do try bracketing. It's an invaluable way to just find your
05:11 perfect exposure. And just remember that when you go out
05:14 and you're in a situation where your lighting is uncertain, or things are changing.
05:19 If you take your first photograph and it's extremely over exposed or underexposed.
05:24 There's no need to panic. It happens to all of us.
05:26 Just change your Shutter Speed one way or the other to see what kind of new results
05:29 you're going to get. It's called Bracketing, and everybody
05:33 does it. And it's a really helpful tool.
05:35 So hopefully, bracketing will help you find your perfect exposure when you're in
05:39 situations with less than perfect light or with light that's changing.
05:44
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Understanding key tones
00:02 Using key photography, referring to high key and low key, is a way to get really
00:06 cool results out of your craft photography.
00:10 Now, on screen right now, we have an example of low key photography.
00:15 And all that really means is that all the midtones.
00:20 All the middle grays, all the middle tones in your photo are pushed down
00:24 towards a darker range. And that can happen in a couple of ways.
00:31 You can either make this happen within your camera or you work on your image in
00:36 post production in some image editing software after you've taken your photographs.
00:43 It's much easier to achieve a nice high key or low key image as you're taking it,
00:47 but in this movie I'm going to show you how I've achieved a high key and low key
00:52 image both in the camera and on the computer.
00:58 Now, the image I have onscreen is one that I took by adjusting my camera settings.
01:05 I wanted to get a very low key picture, meaning I didn't want a lot of mid tones.
01:09 I wanted a very dark frame around the image and to achieve that, I set my
01:13 camera to a few different settings, and made sure that my lighting and background
01:18 were appropriate to get these results. So here are the settings I used to get
01:25 this nice, dark background, with these very low key tones.
01:31 I was shooting at f 1.8, so I had a nice wide aperture, and my shutter speed was
01:36 set to 1 200th of a second. Now, since I was inside, I wanted to use
01:42 a little bit of a higher ISO, just to increase my light sensitivity, so that
01:46 was at 400, and I was shooting with my 50 millimeter lens the lighting I was using
01:50 was natural and diffused light. And most importantly, I was shooting on a
01:57 black background. Now let me just talk about the lighting
02:00 that was going on in the kitchen that I was shooting in.
02:05 I set up my little portable studio in my kitchen.
02:08 And I had a black matte background. But because there was so much light in
02:14 the room, the background was being lit in addition to the craft itself.
02:20 So, that black background was really popping out in the photograph.
02:25 Right away, I could see that my black background was looking really nice.
02:30 Now, if I were lighting this scene with an actual lighting setup, I would have
02:34 one key light. And that would be set to illuminate my
02:38 backdrop so that the black really did stand out.
02:41 But I would want to keep my craft a few feet away from it at least.
02:45 Just so not a lot of light is reflecting off the background and hitting my craft.
02:50 Again, I wasn't using a lighting set up. I was just using the light from the kitchen.
02:54 It was nice and bright but I had my tripod out.
02:58 I had everything I needed as far as the aperture setting and the shutter speed.
03:03 And these were the results I got. Now, this isn't exactly what I got
03:06 straight out of the camera. I did do a tiny bit of post production.
03:10 So I'm going to show you what the original photograph looked like.
03:14 And when I switch to it, you can see it's not that dramatically different.
03:19 There is a little shadow being cast from, the natural light, but overall you get a
03:23 sense of where the background is. The craft is in focus, and, the only
03:28 contrast really apparent, is that of the craft itself.
03:35 And the dark, black background. Not a lot of mid-tones going on.
03:39 Although, you can very clearly see the definition of the outline of the craft.
03:43 So that's important. Again, this is the original image.
03:47 And this is just the image that I bumped the contrast a little bit more with my
03:52 curves level. So The post production that I did on this
03:57 image was very, very minimal. All I really did was just drag my Curves
04:01 tool over to the right just a tiny bit to increase the black and give it a more
04:06 dramatic look. But you can create a key tone using
04:11 Photoshop, or using your favorite image editing software.
04:16 But I have to warn you, it's not that easy.
04:19 I would much rather just set my apperture, set my shutter speed, and Set
04:23 up an appropriate lighting setting so that I can get a really nice high or low
04:27 key tone in the camera. And so, I took another photograph of this
04:32 fish with a white background and I'm going to show you that as well.
04:37 First, I'm going to start out with just the raw capture that I got, just the.
04:41 The image of my craft, my little needle felted fishy in a jar aquarium shot on a
04:46 white background. Now when I look at this I don't think
04:51 high key. When I think of high key photography it's
04:55 all white, very clean, crisp background. It's not over exposed but it's very
05:01 etheral looking, and just very crisp, and clear.
05:05 Now you can tell this has a bit of blue cast to it.
05:09 And it's just not quite as bright as I would like.
05:12 If I really wanted to have a nice high key tone with this image, I probably
05:16 should have lit it a lot better, instead of just relying on natural light.
05:21 So that's the drawback of shooting with natural light.
05:24 Now, I'm just going to show you really quickly a couple of things that I did to
05:28 get this image. So this is my high key fish image.
05:34 And this actually took a great deal of time with me just fiddling with settings,
05:38 with saturation, with curves. I really spent a lot of time masking out
05:44 certain areas because I wanted to get a nice, clean, crisp White image with a
05:48 nice defined line around the jar but without all that blue haze.
05:55 So it did take a while in post production.
05:58 In fact, I'm not going to show you every single step because this would end up
06:02 being quite a long video but I will show you using my original Capture of the fish
06:07 on the white background, a few steps, a few little tricks to making your already
06:11 light photograph a high key photograph. And again, I just want to say that I
06:19 would rather be taking this photograph in my camera, with the proper settings, but
06:23 if you've taken an image and it's got a very bright tone, you can in some cases
06:26 Where you've got this nice clean background.
06:31 Really bump up those midtones, those key tones to get a nice high key craft photo.
06:39 So let's take a look at a couple of those tips right now.
06:43 So here's my original capture and there were a couple of things that I wanted to
06:46 do to make this a very nice high key image.
06:50 I rotated my image and I wanted to adjust the saturation.
06:54 So, I went Image, Adjustments > Hue > Saturation.
06:58 And when that little panel pops up, you can adjust the saturation by this middle
07:02 slider, just sliding it one way or another, almost to the point where there
07:05 is absolutely no color in it at all. So it's up to you to decide how saturated
07:13 or unsatruated your image is, but I ended up going with something around this area.
07:19 Now, my next step was to adjust the curves within the Adjustment layer, and I
07:23 wanted to work within the Adjustment layer or the Adjustment palette so that I
07:27 could keep these background images pure and not actually degrade the content that
07:32 came straight out of my camera. So you can see that I just pushed my
07:39 mid-tones straight up. I brought in some brightness here.
07:43 And I'm going to turn on this layer and show you how much brighter this image got.
07:47 Now that's really bright. But when that happens, I'm noticing that
07:51 my color is now off. And I know that I desaturated my image
07:55 but I don't want it to look unfinished. I'm trying to go for a high key image.
08:00 And if my color is off then this whole thing is just going to look wrong.
08:05 So the last thing I did was balanced out my color by using this middle eye tone
08:09 eyedropper and making a selection of the background or an area that was middle
08:14 grey and when I did that I got a much warmer look.
08:19 I got a warmer feeling. This I was much happier with.
08:24 I can still see the definition here around my jar.
08:27 And my fishy still looks nice. And overall it's got a very etherial.
08:32 Very white bright background. But the only area that's really missing
08:36 any data. It's this one.
08:38 The little area of reflection. And frankly I think that, that was yup.
08:41 That was there when I first took my image, so I'm okay with this, and I'm
08:45 just going to go ahead and give this a crop so that we can get our little
08:48 rotated boo boo out of the way. And that is all I needed to do.
08:58 Now there are a few other tricks if this doesn't give you the result you want.
09:02 I would also suggest that you play around with Masking, you could try masking out
09:06 certain areas and brightening up your image that way.
09:11 You can of course come to the Adjustments panel, and just scroll through here, see
09:14 if you want to change the exposure. Sometimes overexposing your image by one
09:19 or two steps will give you a nicer high key image, you just want to be careful
09:23 that you're not getting a lot of clipping.
09:28 You don't want to lose a lot of data. So, it might seem like there's a whole
09:32 combination of things to try and experiment with if you're going for a
09:35 high key image in post production, and that's true.
09:39 So that's again why I would say definitely try to achieve your high and
09:43 low key photography, just by using an appropriate background and the correct
09:47 exposure to get the look that you're going for.
09:52 It is a lot of work to try to fix up your image in Photoshop afterwards, but you
09:55 still end up with pretty great results. So again, I'm just going to show you
10:00 really quickly, this is our high-key goldfish.
10:05 Meaning that there aren't a lot of mid-tones.
10:07 It's a bright and very white image. The center of focus is completely
10:12 surrounded by white. And there's not a whole lot of contrast
10:15 in the image. And then an example of low key
10:17 photography, would be our same needle felted fishy in his little glass aquarium.
10:24 Shot on a black background that was back-lit with only natural lighting and
10:29 at a very wide aperture with a shutter speed of 200 on a tripod and an ISO of 400.
10:38 So these are just a couple of ways that you can try to achieve high and low key
10:40 tones in your photography. They both give very different looks.
10:44 High key photography is often seen in a lot of wedding photography, and low key
10:49 photography I've actually seen quite a bit of with regards to pregnancy photography.
10:56 Because it really does extenuate the curve of a shape or a belly, or a craft.
11:02 So either way you can experiment with both techniques and see which one you
11:05 like the best when you are shooting your crafts.
11:09
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What is dynamic range?
00:02 You've probably heard the term dynamic range with regards to digital photography.
00:07 And in this movie, I just want to briefly talk about what dynamic range is, what
00:11 scenarios that it presents itself in, and then a couple of solutions for evening
00:15 things out a little bit. So, dynamic range simply refers to the
00:22 minimum and maximum amount of measurable light intensity.
00:27 So, that's basically a long way of saying the most dark darks, and the light lights
00:32 and then the range in between it. A very dynamic range of luminancy.
00:40 So, this would occur when you're either shooting in dappled sun, like I am here,
00:45 or if you're shooting in a place where a large shadow is being cast, and part of
00:51 your composition is shaded, and another part is in direct, bright sunlight.
01:00 And you've probably seen photographs like that, where half of the photo is just
01:03 completely washed out and the other half is pretty dark.
01:07 So dappled shade is a good example of, of dynamic range on a smaller scale.
01:12 But again, you've probably seen those photographs where you just, you've taken
01:16 a shot, you didn't realize there was a huge shadow in your way, and now you have
01:19 this really wonky, strange exposure. So that is what dynamic range is.
01:25 Now, how do we get around it? What are some solutions for working with
01:30 a scenario like that? Well, there are a couple of things that
01:33 you can do just with your exposure. When you're shooting photographs and you
01:37 notice that your light is uneven like that, you can take your camera off of
01:41 Automatic and try putting it on Manual Program Automatic or Shutter Priority,
01:46 and just try to do some bracketing, and see if you can change your exposure by
01:50 half a stop or a whole stop in either direction to see if that's going to help.
01:59 And if that doesn't solve your initial problem, put your camera on a tripod, if
02:03 you don't already have it on a tripod, and use bracketing to get several
02:07 exposures that you can later stitch together.
02:11 That's actually called HDR photography, or High Dynamic Range, where photographs
02:16 of multiple exposures are put together using third party software applications.
02:23 You can look online and find a few of those.
02:25 Or you can try to do it yourself, but it's easier with some of the third party applications.
02:30 And the results are really cool. They're very color saturated.
02:33 There's a lot of different highs and lows with regards to light.
02:36 Those are pretty interesting. But if you just want to get a nice even
02:39 shot and you're having some problems with the sun and shade and, and the dappled
02:42 light and the dynamic range is driving you crazy, then you can do a couple of things.
02:47 You can either use a reflector just underneath your craft, so in the
02:52 foreground adding some light. You could use a fill flash, which would
02:57 be the same principle as the reflector, really, because you just want to even out
03:00 the tone. Or, of course, you could just take your
03:03 craft inside, or find a light box, and shoot it in another spot where there is
03:07 even light. That's the nice thing about craft
03:10 photography is that you're usually going to be shooting something small and portable.
03:15 And so if you find yourself without access to a good flash that's going to
03:18 give you a nice soft light, if it's too harsh and it's not working out for you,
03:22 or if you don't have your reflector handy, you can move your craft to another
03:25 location where there is a nice even light.
03:31 Now, one quick thing I want to say about HDR photography and stitching your
03:35 photographs together. I think that that's a really cool effect.
03:39 I think it looks really awesome. But in my opinion, and this is just my
03:42 opinion, I can find it distracting sometimes too, because things look so
03:46 candy-colored and bright, and it can kind of take away from your craft if you're
03:50 not careful with it. It's, again, it's one of those tools like
03:55 a few of the Photoshop tools that are so alluring.
03:58 They're so seductive that you want to use them.
04:01 But you need to show a little restraint. So if you do decide to shoot your crafts
04:05 in HDR, just use caution. Don't go overboard to the point where
04:08 it's distracting from the integrity of your craft, and so that it's not
04:12 distracting from your overall photo. If you want to get some cool art shots,
04:17 and go just for the really neat aesthetic of it, then by all means.
04:21 But if you're using HDR for a product shot, I would really say to kind of reign
04:25 it in a little bit. So, that's what dynamic range is, just
04:28 the range between the darkest darks and the lightest lights.
04:32 And the scenarios that that would occur would be in dappled shade, or where
04:35 there's a huge shadow being cast across your craft.
04:39 And unfortunately, these things happen. It's just the way it is when you're
04:42 shooting outside. So try to evenly light your craft with a
04:45 fill flash or with a gold or silver reflector, and you're going to get much
04:49 better results. And of course, if you don't have those
04:53 items, take it inside.
04:55
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Reading and understanding histograms
00:02 One of the most convenient and helpful tools that you can find to measure your
00:07 overall tuning range and color range within your crow photography is the histogram.
00:15 And the histogram is basically just a graph.
00:19 And this graph is so helpful and so useful.
00:22 That there's one in Photoshop, Photoshop Elements Lightroom, Camera Raw plugins.
00:28 There's even histograms on your camera, on your digital SLR and most compact
00:33 cameras as well. So, when and why should you use a histogram?
00:40 What does it do? Well on our camera while we're taking a
00:42 photograph, while we're taking an exposure.
00:45 We can use a histogram to gauge whether or not we have a proper exposure because
00:49 it's going to give us the full tonal range.
00:53 Meaning the darkest darks and the lightest lights and everything in between.
00:57 And in Photoshop or any of the other image editing software applications, the
01:01 histogram works in the same way. So I have a few images open here.
01:06 And I just want to show you, the differences in the tonal range with these
01:10 photographs that I've already taken. So, on your screen right now, you see a
01:15 photograph of three little elves that I made out of marzipan.
01:20 Which is an edible almond paste, and quite delicious, by the way.
01:24 But these were little candies that I made for the holidays.
01:27 And so I wanted to take some photographs of them.
01:30 Now, I shot this picture in a very bright light box, on a very white plate.
01:38 So, you'll notice that in the histogram, there's a lot of information to the far right.
01:44 Meaning lots of bright, white values. And not a whole lot in the darker region.
01:51 So if I come on over here I can also drop down and look at the luminancy.
01:55 And again it's the same principle, there's a lot of bright values and not so
02:00 many dark values over here. So, If I come over to my next example.
02:09 This is sort of a flat image, and I know that just by looking at it, there are
02:12 only a few little shadows that are giving this paper orchid any definition.
02:17 But it's just paper on paper, really. Not a lot of brights, not a lot of darks, so.
02:22 The histogram is reflecting that. Both in luminancy and in colors.
02:27 There's not a huge range. So this tells me, yeah, if I want this to
02:31 be a really compelling image. I'm going to need to do some tweaking,
02:36 maybe within curves or levels, just to give myself a greater range of values.
02:44 Now, as you can probably guess, when you've got an image that's very white.
02:48 You're going to have a lot of values to the far right of your histogram.
02:51 And when you have, kind of, a flat image, you're going to have a lot of values
02:54 right in the middle. Well, this is a little workshop I did
02:57 with a few friends of mine while we were out camping in a ghost town.
03:01 And we set the camera on long exposure and used our little glow-in-the-dark
03:06 bracelets to write out the word, Spoooooky because it was very spooky.
03:12 But what we ended up with was a very cool long exposure photograph that has
03:18 virtually all dark values. There are very few midtones or very few
03:25 light, light, bright values. So within this capture there really are
03:31 only dark values to work with. Now the next example is actually kind of
03:36 a happy medium. This is another photograph that I took.
03:40 Where I'd staged a New Year's Eve party and wanted to break some confetti eggs on
03:44 a plate. And while I wanted it to have a nice dark
03:48 background, I wanted to have my little broken eggs on a white plate.
03:51 So you can see that there's a nice range here of both Luminancy and colors.
03:55 And so, with the historgram we can tell if we have a nice wide swath of values
04:01 within our tonal range. But we can also see if clipping is
04:07 occuring, where we've got data that's actually disappearing because we have so
04:12 much black, or so much white in our image, that we're losing data.
04:18 Which is the case with both the elf photograph, and the spooky night writing
04:22 photograph as well. So clipping is one thing to look out for,
04:27 but also just to verify that your overall composition has a nice balance of color
04:31 and luminancy. So when you're taking photographs, check
04:36 your camera, look for your histogram. In some cases, you'll have a histogram
04:41 option that can pop up while you're taking the photograph.
04:44 In other cases you'll have a histogram that can display on your LCD screen after
04:48 you've taken the photograph. And if you don't think about making that
04:52 option available to you while you're taking the photo.
04:57 You can of course come back and then open up your image within any number of image
05:02 editing software options to really get an idea for what kind of exposure you've taken.
05:09 And whether or not you need to do some additional image editing just to make it
05:13 a more balanced photo. I just want to mention that within the
05:19 histogram, you can also drop down to see individual colors within your image.
05:25 And there is also, in case you haven't seen this before, there are also a few
05:29 other graphs that are going to help you see the overall range of your photograph.
05:36 And those are the Curves pallet. As well as Levels.
05:42 So with these two other options, you have the ability to both see your overall
05:46 distribution of luminancy. And also alter it.
05:51 So those are a few things to look out for when you're taking photos.
05:54 And when you're looking to get a good idea of what your tonal range is within
05:58 your craft photography.
06:00
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Creating striking images with contrast
00:01 Using contrasting colors in your craft photography is a great way to really
00:04 offset what you've made. Pay attention to the backgrounds that you
00:08 can find. And think about what color your craft is.
00:11 In this case, I've got a little blue elephant, and I really want to make him
00:14 pop off my page. So I was walking around the garden
00:18 looking for something that would make him just stand out a little bit more, and I
00:21 found this great yellow bush. The hue of it is quite a bit li, lighter
00:26 than the elephant itself, but, right next to it is this red plant.
00:31 So, while the red bush is the same tone as the elephant, it's actually, you know,
00:34 quite a different color and the contrast is so nice.
00:37 So, I'm just going to nestle my elephant right between the red and the yellow.
00:42 And it's really making the blue pop out. It's actually also bringing out, kind of,
00:46 the blue in his eyes and his cute little eyelashes, so I'm really happy with this setting.
00:51 I'm going to take a couple of pictures and see how it looks.
00:54 Let's get in here nice and closeSOUND andSOUND, yeah, that's great.
01:05 (audio playing) Now, when I'm looking for backgrounds,
01:06 every craft is going to be different. So you're going to have to find the right
01:10 background that fits your craft. Maybe meets its personality.
01:15 It kind of makes sense in context. If not, that's fine, too.
01:17 Having a contrast in backgrounds is great as well.
01:20 Finding light contrast is, is great as well.
01:22 It kind of creates a, an interesting dimension.
01:25 Sometimes if you get really dramatic with contrasting light, then that can set a mood.
01:30 But contrasting color is just a great way to really offset your craft, and make it
01:33 pop off the page. So, I encourage you to look around, pay
01:36 attention to your surroundings, pay attention to your craft and just try a
01:39 few out. Get creative with color, I think you're
01:42 going to like the results.
01:43
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Shooting crafts in black and white
00:01 When people are looking to buy crafts online, color is a major factor.
00:05 accessories, clothes, jewelry, it's usually about what is this item going to match?
00:11 But I love shooting in black and white when it comes to craft photography and
00:16 I'll tell you why. (audio playing) I've got this knitted bag.
00:20 I made it out of jute fibers, and it's a natural plant based fiber.
00:25 So it's got this really great texture on it and it's perfect for black and white.
00:31 So, here we are. We're by this abandoned house.
00:35 There's a lot of rock that's falling apart, there's some old brick, exposed
00:39 wood that's full of termites. It's not a great place to live in, but
00:44 it's a fantastic place to shoot because the textural quality is so interesting.
00:49 And that's something that black and white far surpasses when you're comparing color
00:53 and black and white with craft photography.
00:56 Another thing that black and white photography can do for crafts is that it really.
01:01 In addition to the detail of the fibers, it also expresses the graphical nature of
01:06 the image. And it also gives you like an especially
01:10 good pattern that maybe would fade away in color.
01:13 So, I walked around this abandoned house a few times.
01:16 Trying to figure out what the best angle was.
01:18 And I ended up here. A couple of things I really liked about
01:21 this spot. One there was already a nail in the beam.
01:24 So we threw the hook over the, over the nail.
01:27 And we were able to hang it up. But what was perfect about it, is that
01:30 there's a nice shadow. That's being cast from the wood beam.
01:34 So, this bag is kind of a light fiber, and having a dark background behind it
01:38 really offsets it. So that's, that's step one.
01:43 Step two is because this bag is pretty light, we walked around and filled it
01:47 with rocks. That's just another little staging tip.
01:50 This is kind of how a bag would look if somebody was wearing it.
01:53 So presenting it in its natural form is a pretty good deal.
01:58 So here we are, and we're going to get ready to take some pictures.
02:02 Now I'm using a Canon today, but a lot of cameras, even point and shoot cameras
02:06 have a black and white function. If you don't see today how to turn your
02:11 own camera in black and white. Just check your user's manual, I promise
02:15 you, it's probably in there. So, to take our cannon from color to
02:19 black and white, we're simply going to come down to this little icon.
02:25 It kind of looks like a ceiling fan to me, but when you press it, it takes you
02:29 to the Picture Style panel. It's currently set to standard, so we're
02:34 just going to scroll on over to Monochrome, hit Set.
02:37 And we're ready to go with black and white.
02:39 So I'm going to take a step back, get a feel for the composition, and start shooting.
02:46 And I'm pressing down halfway on my shutter button just to get a good
02:50 exposure setting. I'm taking into consideration the shape
02:55 of the roof. There's a line being drawn by these beams
02:58 over here and it's creating a nice line right to the back, and so that's really great.
03:02 It's pointing at exactly what we're shooting.
03:04 (audio playing) And like always, we're going to take a bunch of photos and see which one
03:08 we like the best. (audio playing) So, we're going to get in really
03:13 tight, take some of those good fiber shots.
03:17 And kind of step away from it, just to see what we can get.
03:24 All different angles. Looking interesting in black and white.
03:31 (audio playing) So before you discount black and white craft photography, try it out for yourself.
03:36 Find a great textural background, find a nice color contrast, and just start shooting.
03:41 You'll be amazed at the texture that pops out, the detail that pops out.
03:46 I think you're going to be really pleased.
03:48 it could be exactly what prospective buyers are looking for, or just fascinate
03:51 your interested freinds. So, get to shooting.
03:56 You're going to find something great in black and white craft photography.
03:58
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Metering light to get it right
00:00 One of the ways to achieve proper exposure within your craft photography is
00:04 by metering light. Now, you can meter light with an external
00:09 handheld light meter, or one that connects to your camera with a a cord.
00:15 Or, you can just simply use the light meter that is built into your camera.
00:21 Every camera has a light meter built in, and that is what helps you find the
00:25 proper exposure. So, the photograph that we're looking at
00:29 on screen right now is underexposed. It's too dark.
00:33 So, what happened when I took this photograph is that I was metering in
00:37 these very bright light sky areas. And my camera was trying to compensate
00:42 for all that really bright information, so it resulted in a very dark photograph.
00:49 Now, in this next example, I was taking samples in the tree branch in much darker
00:54 areas and to try to find that balance of light, I ended up with a very
00:58 overexposed, way way too bright and very blown out in certain areas image.
01:06 And this is also unusable. So, what I needed to do was take a
01:11 metering of my photograph, right on the focus of the owl.
01:15 Now, this was a little tricky, because you can see, there are patches of light
01:19 and dark. The craft is situated in a dappled area,
01:23 so the light was changing, and I did need to continue metering throughout my entire
01:27 photo shoot. But as I did that, I could find my way.
01:34 I could find out what the best lighting conditions were, just by taking samples
01:38 through my camera. And you can take samples of the light.
01:43 You can meter the light by just locking down your exposure and then pressing your
01:46 shutter button halfway down, just to kind of take samples within the frame, and
01:50 tilt your camera in various directions, just so that you can get an overall feel
01:54 for what it's like to sample light in different areas.
02:00 And then you can see, when you take the exposure, that you're going to end up
02:03 with very different results. So by practicing metering, by taking
02:07 samples in various areas of your image, you're going to end up with really good results.
02:14 Now, if you wanted to be sure that you got a proper exposure, you could place a
02:18 gray card in your image and meter on that.
02:22 And your camera would see those midtones, and it would have a perfect exposure.
02:27 But lots of times, I will go out and shoot photos and I don't have a gray card
02:31 with me. So if you can try to find some middle
02:34 range to meter on, then that will work just as well.
02:39 And of course, if you are unsure if you've gotten a proper exposure as you've
02:43 metered light, then just keep your camera in the same place if it's on a tripod, or
02:46 just hold still. And then, just bracket your exposures.
02:51 Take several different exposures by changing the stop, either by one or a
02:55 half stop difference in either direction, just to be sure that you're getting the
02:58 best image that you can. Metering light should help you find your
03:04 way, and get a really great exposure when you're out shooting crafts.
03:08
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Minimizing and maximizing shadows
00:01 When you're shooting pictures of your crafts, light is going to be involved.
00:04 And your craft is going to cast a shadow. It's up to you to decide whether you
00:08 want to minimize that shadow, or maximize.
00:11 Right now I'm going to show you how, and why you might want to do both.
00:14 So, we've got this little set set up over here.
00:18 And my craft is this paper mache deer head.
00:21 I really like the way that taxidermy looks but I don't really like dead animals.
00:25 So I wanted to make one out of paper mache.
00:27 And I've staged this little set up with my leather chair and my little bowl of nuts.
00:33 So I think it looks like a nice appropriate place to take a photograph of
00:36 my craft. And I've got a spot over here.
00:40 And a giant diffuser. Of course if you're shooting crafts at
00:43 home, you're probably not going to have a gigantic spot and a diffuser, but if you
00:47 are in a situation where you were shooting outside and the light was
00:50 getting low, long shadows are being cast, or perhaps you're shooting inside and you
00:54 only have one light on. And again, a long shadow is being cast,
01:00 you can cut that down with this diffuser. This is just a store-bought model.
01:05 But you can use all kinds of materials to cut down light.
01:09 Fabric plastic, frosted glass, things like that.
01:13 this is really just taking that light and then pushing it out, so that the, the
01:16 light is nice and soft. I'm going to take a picture and see how
01:20 it looks. I mean, it looks pretty good from here,
01:22 but I'm just going to take a quick shot. (NOISE) And it looks okay.
01:27 It's nothing special but it looks all right.
01:30 So, what I want to do now, is try to get a little experimental, be brave with hard light.
01:35 So I'm going to get rid of this diffuser, and see what happens when we have a
01:39 really strong shadow that's being cast. So now you can see I've got one light,
01:46 and it's just pushing this shadow of the deer across the wall.
01:50 And a few things are happening. First of all, it's kind of changed the
01:54 mood in this room. It's got, like, a, a moody mystery
01:57 feeling to it, like some tension is being built.
02:02 some really nice negative space has shown up, because we've, we've created these
02:06 very interesting lines. And there's just a whole new dynamic
02:10 within our stage here. So I'm just going to take a photo here
02:14 and see what I get, and, ooh, I like that.
02:18 I'm going to keep I'm framing the entire image so that I've got my deer in, in the
02:22 shot, but I've also got the entire shadow because I'm really liking the line that's
02:27 being created. It's pushing the viewers eye all around
02:32 the image but it's also creating a tremendous amount of negative space so
02:36 this picture is way more dynamic. There is all kinds of tension going on
02:40 and it's really leading the viewer's eye to the craft which is cool.
02:45 So, if you want to be brave and try some new techniques with hard shadows.
02:51 I'd say don't be afraid of them. Don't always have the knee jerk reaction
02:55 to diffuse them. Think about how they relate to your image
02:59 and give it a nice graphic feeling. It really does add another element.
03:03 And you can achieve these hard shadows inside with one light or outside in late
03:08 afternoon sun. Whenever there is one light source, just
03:12 go for that, and put up your craft, and it's, you know, it's going to give you
03:15 some interesting results. So, try it out for yourself and see if
03:19 you like it.
03:20
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Getting awesome shots in low-light settings
00:01 We've all been there. We've just finished our craft.
00:03 It's after midnight and the available light is terrible.
00:06 But we still want to get a good photograph of what we, what we just made.
00:09 Before we either give it away or box it up to sell it.
00:13 Fortunately we can take really great shots with low lighting.
00:17 And I'm going to show you how to do that right now.
00:19 So I've got these two shoes that I've drawn on.
00:22 And while the composition doesn't look so great from this angle, I've set it up in
00:26 my camera to make it look really nice from this angle.
00:30 So and I've got some notes, because we're here in the studio right now shooting
00:33 this, and all the lights are down. the only light that we're actually using
00:37 is just from one window. And it's very low lighting, and so
00:41 this'd, this would be something that you could re-create if you were shooting at
00:44 your own home, late, late at night. Or even an outside in the evening with
00:48 just available light from stars, the moon, whatever.
00:52 Even when it's really, really dark, there's still going to be some light.
00:55 So I'm going to show you how to handle this situation right now.
00:59 I've got my notes, and let's come on over here.
01:01 So, the equipment that we're going to need for this particular project, is a tripod.
01:08 Absolutely, can, not, shoot in low light without a tripod, unless you are made of stone.
01:13 Also, I really like using my shutter release in this case.
01:18 It's not a super long cord so I wouldn't use this for a self portrait.
01:21 But I like using it for low light because if I touch my shutter when it's all set
01:25 up, there's a chance I could shake it and then potentially ruin my shot.
01:32 I also have my notebook because before we started rolling I wanted to get a good exposure.
01:37 So I was doing a little bit of bracketing, just changing the shutter
01:41 speed and playing with the, the proper exposure.
01:45 And even now I see the light is changing, so it might not be exactly what I had
01:48 written down. But at least I have a good place to start from.
01:52 And that's probably the biggest key and the biggest thing that I can say to you
01:54 about shooting in low light, is that you're going to have to keep playing with it.
01:58 It's okay to bracket, it's okay to change your exposure.
02:02 You might not get it right on the first time.
02:04 You might have a viewfinder that's completely black.
02:07 But just keep working with it until you get the right shot.
02:09 So, when you're ready to take your photograph think about composition too.
02:15 Since you don't have a lot of available light, you really want to focus on how
02:18 great you can make this photograph work just by using either the shape of your
02:22 craft or the available colors. I've got some gray high heels here, so
02:27 I've got this gray background. But then, the focal point of my, of my
02:31 image has some red in it, so I've chosen this red background.
02:35 Just because I want to give a little bit more excitement to it, since the light
02:38 isn't optimal. So, I'm going to turn on my camera here.
02:43 So the first setting that I'm starting in, is shutter priority.
02:46 I just want to change my shutter and see what I need to get a good exposure.
02:50 And I've taken my notes here, so I started at 0.8 to get a good exposure.
02:56 And my ISO was only at 100. It's not, not super sensitive, so I
03:01 want to see what's going to happen. But since I've got kind of a long exposure.
03:05 And let's see here. Okay, I'm happy with those results, but I
03:09 want to show you what happens when I bump up the ISO.
03:14 That was kind of a long exposure, even on a tripod, so there's a chance that
03:18 something could happen, if some wind comes and this is a flimsy tripod.
03:23 There's a chance that I could get a little bit of, of shake and I don't
03:26 want to do that, so I want to experiment. And so I'm going to just change my ISO here.
03:32 And I'm going to crank it almost, actually, all the way up on my camera
03:36 here to 6400. And so, that means I'm going to need to
03:41 change my shutter speed to a 50th of a second.
03:47 And these are not, these are not guidelines that you can necessarily apply
03:51 exactly to your photographs. But again, this was something that I was
03:56 experimenting with, writing my own notes just to keep, keep measure of what's
03:59 going on. So, okay, I'm all set up here.
04:03 And I'm going to take another shot. Okay.
04:06 I like this exposure, but there is actually, there's an open window behind me.
04:10 And it's, I'm getting one bright light right here, and not a whole lot of light
04:13 on the back shoe. So I've got my handy reflector.
04:17 And this is just something that you can use to just direct whatever available
04:20 light you have. And since the light is coming in from
04:24 over my left shoulder. I need, this is nice and sturdy and
04:28 strong, so I need to just change the light by bouncing it off.
04:32 Bouncing it right over here and I want to hit it onto this part of the shoe.
04:37 So the light is coming in over my shoulder and I'm going to diffuse and
04:40 reflect up to just get a little bit here. To just fill in that part of the photograph.
04:47 I'm going to come back and see what kind of difference that makes.
04:50 (audio playing) And now I'm just going to review, and see if I like that.
04:56 And I do. It's quite a difference and the key to
04:59 low lighting is really just taking notes, paying attention to your surroundings.
05:05 Certainly paying attention to your composition, and using the right gear,
05:07 like a tripod, and a shutter release. And also if you need to add a little bit
05:12 more light, adding a reflector, even if it's just a piece of foam core.
05:16 With those things, stay calm, just keep practicing, and you're bound to get a
05:20 good shot. It's worth it.
05:22 So, when you're crafting late, late at night please don't just like put your
05:26 craft away and ship it off. I really would encourage you to take a
05:30 photograph for yourself, for your friends, and potentially for your store.
05:34 You can get really nice shots that look good, good enough online to use as
05:37 product shots. So, good luck with that.
05:41
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Crafting moods with light
00:02 Creating moods with lighting can give you very different and dramatic effects.
00:06 Whether you're trying to silhouette an image to show off an unusual shape, and
00:10 casting long shadows to hint at drama. If you pay attention to the warmth, and
00:15 direction, and amount of available light, you can create a variety of emotions and moods.
00:21 Now, on the screen right now we have an image of just a row of little pinwheels
00:26 that I made out of book pages. I have it set up in bright sunlight, and
00:33 the overall tone of this photograph is very cheery, it's shot outdoors, it's
00:37 shot in a lovely setting. But if we took this same craft and shot
00:42 it in a different location with very different lighting situations, the
00:46 overall tone and mood of the image would change dramatically.
00:52 Now, while we've also created this image as a black and white, the overall feeling
00:58 of the image is much more solemn, much more lonely.
01:04 And that's becasue of the lighting. Now I shot this craft inside in the low
01:10 light studio. I did create this image as a black and
01:15 white because I didn't want the color of this particular background to compete too
01:19 much with the heavy pattern of the text on this pinwheel.
01:25 But by shooting this in a lower light situation, regardless of whether or not
01:29 it was in color or black and white, the overall feeling of this image is much
01:33 more solemn than the outdoor bright and sunny craft photo of the exact same craft.
01:41 So with the use of lighting we were able to establish a whole new tone to this
01:45 particular craft. So in this example I have a photograph of
01:51 my face with this drying facial mask that I made.
01:55 And I wanted to really show off the texture of this facial mask so I took
01:59 this photo with some side lighting so that you can really get a feel for the
02:03 texture of the mask, but It's such a dark and contrasty photograph, that it really
02:08 gives you a sense of something else going on.
02:15 There's more emotion to this photograph, just based on the lighting alone.
02:19 Now, this next photograph was taken just minutes later, at the point when you can
02:24 stretch out your face. And really break up the mask that was
02:29 really tight on your face. When you stretch it out you can break it
02:32 up a little bit, and I wanted this shot to sort of reflect that, like, joyful
02:36 moment when you're able to break out of your tight, painful facial mask.
02:42 So, this is actually shot with a lot more indirect light.
02:45 There's no direct light, and while you can still see some of the texture of the
02:49 facial mask, it's not nearly as noticeable.
02:52 It's more about the action, the expression and just the very soft light
02:56 of it. So I wanted to create this different
02:59 feeling just by using different lighting. And that technique can be used when
03:04 shooting a variety of different crafts. The more you play with lighting, the more
03:09 you can really establish a sense of joy, drama, sorrow, loss.
03:14 The entire range of emotions can really come through if you pay attention to your
03:19 light source, and the type of light, and how your craft responds to those things.
03:25 So, when you're shooting your craft photography, do consider the emotional
03:30 qualities of light, and play with as many different lighting options as possible,
03:34 to get some really cool emotional and moody affects.
03:39
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2. Advanced Composition and Staging Techniques
Understanding the golden section: ratio, triangles, and spirals
00:02 If you're not sure whether your craft photography is achieving a nice balance
00:05 and symmetry. One of the things that I sometimes do is
00:09 overlay geometric shapes that make up the Golden Ratio.
00:12 Now, you're probably familiar with the Rule of Thirds, but there are a few other
00:17 shapes that can help you achieve perfect symmetry and balance.
00:22 And while this movie is not going to be about all the math that goes on behind
00:26 these shapes. It is going to demonstrate how these
00:30 shapes, when overlayed on your craft, can really display the perfect sense of
00:33 harmony and balance within your craft photography.
00:37 So, I have my little needle felted elephant here.
00:40 And well, he looks pretty good. He looks like he's got a nice balance.
00:45 I just want to double check, and so I'm going to use what's called the Golden Rectangle.
00:51 So here, I've overlaid the golden rectangle, and it's kind of impossible to
00:54 see what our balance of our composition is below.
00:58 So, I'm just going to lower the Opacity on this and verify that my elephant
01:02 picture is, in fact, symmetrical and balanced.
01:07 So, when I bring down the opacity to 50%, I can see that yes, in fact, my elephant
01:11 portrait is balanced. This is another way besides using the
01:16 Rule of Thirds, which is very easy to identify.
01:19 It's basically just a rectangle broken up into equal parts, two parallel lines
01:25 horizontally, and two parallel lines vertically.
01:30 Now, the Golden Rectangle is basically just a rectangle with a square cut out of
01:34 it that has equal sides. And the remaining part, when duplicated,
01:38 would make up a perfect square as well. And while that's interesting, that is
01:44 certainly not the only geometric overlay that we can do.
01:48 So, I've got an image here that has a lot of nice motion and distance here, and
01:51 there's a vanishing point way off in the distance of this photograph.
01:57 And it's leading my eye in this direction and it's reminding me of another Golden
02:01 Rule, and that is the Golden Triangle. Now again, I'm not really going to go
02:08 into all the math behind this Golden Triangle.
02:11 But in an effort to make my dad and my geometry teacher proud, I will say that
02:15 the Golden Triangle is made up of an isosceles triangle that's bisected by
02:19 another triangle. And that the angles of the triangle add
02:25 up to 180 degrees. Of course, I'm not going to think about
02:29 this when I'm taking a photo. But it is interesting to overlay it after
02:34 the fact. And just kind of verify that I do have a
02:37 nice strong sense of balance within my craft photo.
02:41 So, there's one more I want to talk about and that is the last image that you see
02:45 on screen here. Now, if you did watch the intro craft
02:49 photography class, you may have seen that this was the bunny that I used when
02:53 shooting the Rule of Thirds. But I was thinking about the last
02:57 geometric shape that I wanted to mention in this course, and that is FibonaccI's
03:02 Golden Spiral. So, when I overlay the golden spiral onto
03:07 my bunny, it's not exactly the same layout that the Rule of Thirds was.
03:13 But when this image is just cropped slightly, you can see that there's still
03:17 the focus right on the center of the craft.
03:21 But also, I can see that the golden rectangle is also making an appearance
03:25 within the Golden Spiral. So, whether or not you choose to overlay
03:30 these geometric shapes onto your craft photography is completely up to you.
03:36 But I do find it interesting just to see that these fairly complex mathematical
03:40 equations and geometric shapes show up so frequently.
03:45 And so fluidly in various aspects of nature, and within our craft photography
03:50 so readily. So, as a fun exercise, you might be
03:53 interested in just pulling out some of these shapes and overlaying them onto
03:57 your craft photography just to get a sense of your preferred balance and
04:01 symmetry within your craft photography.
04:05
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Using vanishing points in craft photography
00:01 I'm here in the country, walking around, enjoying the view, and I happen to find
00:04 this awesome dirt road. What I like about it, is that it goes off
00:09 into the forest, and it's super beautiful over there.
00:12 But what else, is that it's a great example of a vanishing point.
00:16 These two individual dirt paths are parallel, all the way down the road.
00:22 But way off in the distance, way out, over by the tree line, the path kind of
00:27 winds and winds. But if you follow it, those two lines
00:31 come together into a single dot. A single point, a vanishing point.
00:38 It's a great way to lead your eye off into the distance to create a sense of motion.
00:44 And it's perfect for showing off crafts in craft photography.
00:49 What we've got here, are two parallel lines of little paper pinwheels.
00:54 It happens to be kind of a windy day, so you might see some of them blowing.
00:59 But we have these lined up to mimic the, the same path that the vanishing point creates.
01:07 Over in those forested areas. So, we're going to take this shot down on
01:10 the ground here and get a nice perspective, get a low angle so maybe you
01:14 can see some of the path in the background.
01:18 But the reason we are doing it is to lead the viewers eye, and to get that sense of
01:23 motion, and also to recreate a vanishing point.
01:29 So, let's try that right now. (audio playing) Great.
01:32 So to get a great photo of a vanishing point you really do want to have a low
01:36 vantage point, so that you can see the two parallel rows of crafts converge at
01:40 one single point. Now, if you want to see the entire rows
01:45 of your crafts, you're going to need to have a nice wide aperture.
01:50 I'm shooting at F22 right now. It's really bright out here, but it's
01:54 keeping everything in focus. My lens is also zoomed all the way out.
01:59 I'm shooting with a 17 to 40 millimeter, and right now it's at 17, so, down low.
02:07 it just looks so good. We've got the vanishing point of the
02:10 actual dirt road behind us with our two lines of crafts, in front of us.
02:14 This is a great way to shoot a collection of crafts, and keep the viewer's eye
02:18 traveling all around the composition. And again, it's a great way to just give
02:23 that little hint of motion. Which is kind of perfect if you have a
02:27 craft that really does have a, an aspect of motion in it.
02:34 I hope you'll give vanishing points in your craft photography a try.
02:38 (audio playing)
02:38
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Establishing the temperature of an image
00:02 Some crafts, just by their very nature, will lend themselves well to a specific
00:05 color temperature when you photograph them.
00:09 For instance, the example on screen is of a card that I made that is painted to
00:13 look like a night sky. And when you pull this tab down, it
00:18 reveals this halo around the moon. Now, while the halo around the moon is
00:24 yellow, the rest of the card is very dark midnight blue.
00:29 And it makes sense to me to have an overall blue cast in this photograph,
00:33 simply because it is a night sky scene when it's being photographed.
00:40 Likewise, these bunny-shaped needle felted Easter candies that I made to look
00:45 like a very popular and well-known marshmallow candy that comes out around
00:49 the holidays has an overall yellow soft warm color temperature to it.
00:56 And again, that's just based on the very nature of the craft.
01:00 I made these little needle felted yellow bunnies to look like the original candy.
01:05 And when they're all placed together, it's got a very warm feeling just by the
01:09 very nature of the craft itself. But what happens when you have a craft
01:15 that has kind of a neutral tone, a neutral background.
01:19 And you want to proactively alter the temperature of that individual craft.
01:24 I want to show you a couple of pictures I just took of some wooden necklaces I made
01:28 and I shot them in the forest. I hung them on the branches of the trees
01:34 since all of the pendants are made out of different kinds of wood.
01:39 And I just shot a few snaps. Now, I was in the woods, there was very
01:43 low light. I was shooting on a tripod, and my first
01:46 few shots had this overall cool feeling. And while I thought it was interesting, I
01:51 really wanted to see if I could change the overall temperature of this craft
01:55 photo even though I was in a cool, dark area.
02:01 So, instead of hopping a plane to a more tropical location with lots of sun
02:05 bathing down on my craft, which would be nice but is terribly impractical.
02:10 I pulled out my gold leaf reflector out of my 5-in-1 reflector case, and the gold
02:15 reflector was positioned over off on the right-hand side of the frame.
02:23 And you can see just a little bit of a golden light, it's kind of bathing over
02:26 the background branches. But it really has lightened up the entire
02:31 composition, and made it feel much, much warmer.
02:35 So, if you intentionally want to change the color temperature of your craft while
02:40 you're shooting it, then would recommend bringing a 5-in-1 diffuser.
02:46 Trying out the silver foil reflector, and then trying out the gold foil reflector
02:51 just to see the difference between the two light reflectors.
02:56 I'm going to show you the original photograph once again.
03:00 And now, I'll just do a quick side-by-side comparison so that you can
03:03 see how much variation there is between the temperature of these two photographs.
03:08 Simply by bringing our trusty 5-in-1 reflector with us.
03:12 So, when these two images are side-by-side, it's pretty easy to see
03:15 that the one on the right does have a much warmer overall color temperature
03:18 than the one on the left. The only change that was made during the
03:23 photographic process was the addition of the gold reflector.
03:28 Of course, you can change the color temperature of your craft photo in an
03:32 image editing application. But this is a really great way just to do
03:35 it while you're out in the field. And it doesn't end up needing a lot of
03:39 post production editing.
03:41
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Angling for the wow factor
00:01 One of the most common composition techniques is using the Rule of Thirds.
00:04 And once you know what you're looking for, you're going to see it everywhere.
00:07 Basically, when you look through your view finder, you're going to, you're
00:10 going to want to imagine your image being broken up into a grid of thirds.
00:15 Both horizontally and vertically. So, if you can imagine a grid with nine
00:19 individual squares, just put your image, your center of focus right on one of the
00:23 intersections of the grid and make that your focal point.
00:28 Everything else is less important, and that's the Rule of Thirds.
00:31 It might sound tricky, but once you take a look at a composition using the Rule of
00:35 Thirds, I guarantee you're going to see it everywhere.
00:38 And if you're having a hard time imagining what it might look like, most
00:41 cameras even these little compacts, have a great little grid that makes it very easy.
00:46 So, you just hold it right up. Place your subject on the intersection,
00:50 and snap away. And you get a great composition.
00:53 And why do people like the Rule of Thirds?
00:55 Just because it brings such a natural balance to your image.
00:58 Instead of putting something right in the center, and it seems so symmetrical, your
01:02 eye doesn't like looking at something like that.
01:06 It wants to travel around and figure out the image.
01:08 And by putting something in the lower third, the upper third, moving it around
01:11 a little bit, it's really a more interesting composition.
01:15 So, let's take a look at an example here. We've got our little bunny craft, up in
01:19 the tree where bunnies like to live. And we've got a beautiful blue sky behind
01:24 us and a nice green fore, foreground underneath him.
01:28 And so, I'm just going to take a shot. I'm metering on his face, and then I'm
01:33 just turning my camera slightly so that he's out of the center of the focus.
01:38 And (audio playing) taking a shot. It looks great.
01:40 What's happening is that the green, the green of the shrub is creating a nice
01:45 horizontal access point. And the, the image of the rabbit is just
01:49 coming up just off of center and it's making him my target.
01:54 That's where all the emphasis is going. So, when you want to use the Rule of
01:57 Thirds on your own, you just have to think about what's the subject of your photo.
02:01 And then, where do you want to place it in your view finder.
02:04 Once you have that figured out, you're using the Rule of Thirds, and you're
02:07 guaranteed a great well-balanced photo.
02:09
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Handy tools for staging
00:01 Oftentimes when you are crafting, you will make things that are not meant to be
00:04 just set on a table. They have some dimension to them, they
00:09 would actually look better maybe photographed in a more challenging position.
00:14 Maybe they don't stand upright. That's when you need to think about your
00:16 staging tools. I've got a couple of crafts over here, I
00:19 made these little snails, and, they actually do look fine when they're just
00:22 scooting along on the ground. But they look really cool in a photo when
00:26 they're stuck to a tree. So what I used was this earthquake putty.
00:31 This is a really cool tool for crafters. It's reusable, it's movable, and then you
00:36 can put your crafts just about anywhere you want to get a great shot.
00:44 It's actually one of my favorite staging tools.
00:47 I've got a little bag of, of treats I'm going to show with you today, share with
00:49 you today. That is the earthquake putty.
00:52 Like I said, it's great for anything that is tilted, anything that is even on a
00:56 vertical axis. It's really helpful keeping your crafts
01:00 in place. And because it's kind of a sticky, tacky texture.
01:05 You don't want to put it in fibrous crafts necessarily.
01:08 It's going to get stuck inside just like gum in your hair.
01:11 But anything that's got a smooth clean surface, it's perfect for.
01:14 So we'll put that in there. And my snails usually crawl around on the
01:19 ground, so we probably would not be using fishing line to stage them.
01:24 But if I had crafted a bird, or something that would be hanging from the sky, like
01:28 snowflakes, or whatever just regular fishing line is a great option, because
01:32 it's very easy to edit out in your image editing software after the shoot.
01:38 It's almost undetectable, really. And speaking of fishing line, you're
01:43 going to need to attach your fishing line somewhere or somehow.
01:47 You could just tie it in a knot, but I love these little clamps.
01:50 They're perfect for staging. They're small enough that you can just
01:52 throw them in your bag, in your purse, whatever.
01:55 And speaking of bags, the bag that we're using today Makes for a great light diffuser.
02:04 So, this is just a plastic trash bag, you would might, maybe find at the market or
02:08 any, any cheap shop. And right now we're in kind of a shady
02:13 situation, so, I am not going to be able to give great example of this but I do
02:17 see a shadow being cast and, if I were to come over here, I could just diffuse the
02:21 sunlight and get a really nice soft shot if it were just coming down and casting
02:25 hard shadows. Just a regular trash bag.
02:33 Clear would, would be perfect and the way that I would photograph that is that I
02:37 would come over here to my camera and I would turn it on.
02:42 And then I would set it to, I would go into drive mode, and I would set it to
02:46 self timer or remote control. So I'm just going to set it to two
02:51 seconds, because I'm right here, and depress the shutter.
02:55 And let's see. Perfectly diffused light.
03:08 That's fantastic, and it's just a trash bag.
03:10 And I did see one more goody while I was in here I didn't mention.
03:13 This is just, it's actually jewelry wire, but I use it for propping things up that
03:18 maybe are a little flimsy, a little floppy.
03:22 This is great because you can really manipulate it.
03:24 So this is another staging tool that is fantastic.
03:27 But while we're talking about light, we've got two more things with us here.
03:33 Just about every crafter I know has a stockpile of foam core.
03:39 It's a great crafting tool, but it's also a great photography tool because it can
03:43 add more light to a shady situation. So, we are here in this forest where
03:48 there's not a ton of light. And I can kind of reflect some light up
03:52 and give that a boost, and I can also do the same thing with this white tea towel,
03:56 just from my kitchen, nothing special. I'm going to show you how that works with
04:01 this foam core. So, turn on my camera, and I'm going to
04:04 put it on self timer yet again. Get into position here.
04:12 And add some light. Now let's see how it looks with no light
04:20 on it. Just so that I can get a good comparison.
04:28 Yep, with the light, it's much, much brighter, without it, it's very, very
04:31 dark and almost hard to see the snails. So, we can use trash bag or tea towel to
04:37 kind of diffuse the light. We can also use tea towel from below.
04:44 Or foam core, to reflect the light. And then we have all of our handy staging
04:49 tools here. We've got our earthquake putty, our
04:54 fishing line, and our handy-dandy wire, and our handy-dandy hook.
05:01 And with these tools. You should be able to get a really
05:03 interesting perspective and a really interesting staging for all of your
05:07 crafts when you're doing your photography
05:10
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Hinting at motion in a static image
00:01 When you've made a craft that has moving parts, it's usually a good idea to show
00:04 that it has moving parts to prospective buyers who might be interested.
00:08 The way that we control motion, is actually through shutter speed.
00:12 Our good old friend. One of the three main components to
00:15 getting great exposure. So we've got these paper pinwheels here.
00:19 And I want to take a couple of shots. That show off how the range of motion in
00:23 the pinwheel works. And so I have a little setup here,
00:26 going to put this one away. And we've got our trusty fan in the
00:30 background that's going to provide some wind, so we don't have to pass out
00:33 blowing on our pinwheels while we're taking a shot.
00:36 And I've got my tripod because I want to be sure that everything else in the frame
00:39 is perfectly still. That way it doesn't look like the
00:43 pinwheels are moving just because of an accident or because I had a little camera
00:46 shake, I was feeling wobbly. The tripod's a great tool for showing
00:50 motion with shutter speed. So, I'm going to grab my fan and take
00:53 some test shots and see what we come up with.
00:56 (audio playing) Turn it up to turbo speed. And one of the staging tips that we've
01:04 had, or staging tricks we've had to use in this particular craft, is that while
01:09 we're taking our photograph I want to just have the, the paper pinwheels spinning.
01:17 I don't want to have anything else moving.
01:18 And when I was taking some test shots earlier, the toothpick was wobbling.
01:22 It wasn't, well sticking em into this knitted cap just wasn't enough so we had
01:26 to get resourceful, look around. Couldn't find my earthquake putty but I
01:31 could find a banana. So whatever you need to use in order to
01:34 keep your craft steady is really going to make the difference in the scene.
01:38 So, I mean using fruit to keep your craft in place might be a little bit
01:41 unconventional but it's working for what we've got here, so we're just going to go
01:45 with that. We wanted to have a little bit of a
01:49 visual landscape, so. That still looks pretty nice.
01:54 The pinwheels are moving. The fan is blowing, and we are about to
01:57 slow down our shutter speed so that the only thing that's moving in our image is
02:02 the pinwheels. So, camera on.
02:06 I'm in shutter priority mode. I've already checked my exposure.
02:11 So that looks good. And when I take a shot, since I've got a
02:13 slower shutter speed right now, everything is perfectly clear.
02:17 I've already focused in on the little, the center pin, and so the paper is just moving.
02:21 It looks really nice and swirly. And that's going to let prospective
02:25 buyers know that, yes, this is a functional pinwheel, it doesn't, it's not
02:28 just for show. So that's good.
02:31 let's see, what else. If I wanted to just hint at motion with
02:34 these, I could really, really slow it down and maybe adjust the ISO, kick it up
02:37 a little bit since it's kind of dark in here.
02:40 And it would just look like a perfectly blurred halo around a crystal clear point.
02:46 But I don't want it to be so blurry that you can't tell what it is.
02:49 So just a hint of motion, just find that balance, that sweet spot when you're
02:53 looking through your shutter speed. Keep an eye on your exposure but, really
02:58 test out a whole range of, of motion blurs.
03:01 Everything else should be perfectly crystal clear, but just keep the moving
03:05 part moving, and if you can achieve that then you should end up with a great
03:08 photograph that has your moving parts in place.
03:13 Your craft looks good and then your buyers and your craft photo viewers will
03:16 know what they're looking at.
03:19
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Creating simple animations with still images
00:01 In this movie, we're going to take a series of still images that we can
00:03 animate to make a really simple movie. And the reason we would want to do this
00:07 is just to show the motion that would complement our individual craft.
00:12 And I don't mean show motion by just slowing down shutter speed for one single image.
00:17 I mean taking a series of single images that we can put together, and make kind
00:20 of a flip-book style movie. So I've got this craft here, this little
00:25 needle felted octopus that I made. And I wanted to really give him a little
00:30 home, not just create a habitat shop. But really put it all together and give
00:34 this whole project some fun, dynamic elements and also just get a little crafty.
00:40 So what I've done here is, first of all, crafted a light box.
00:45 And I did this because I don't always have the optimal lighting situation at my
00:51 home or studio. So, this is just a simple project.
00:55 It's basically just taking a cardboard box, cutting out a side here, a side
00:59 here, an open area here. And for, the purposes of this animation,
01:04 when we're going to be moving our craft, I've left it, open on top.
01:08 But if you wanted to just have it as a functional light box, you would probably
01:11 just cut a single fold here, and cover. Cover the hole with a plastic bag just to
01:16 diffuse the light. We also have a background in this box and
01:20 it's a thick heavy stock piece of art paper.
01:25 Now, inside the box we have a few things going on.
01:29 using some of our staging techniques and our staging tools, I've made this seascape.
01:36 And there's a lot going on underneath it. It might just look like a cute little
01:40 seascape up front, and that's what I hope it looks like.
01:43 But below I'm using all kinds of little tricks like clips on raw wools makes seaweed.
01:49 And I've got a stack of books under here just to kind of raise the height of this
01:53 drop cloth. And give, give the entire scene kind of
01:57 like a little bit of a visual landscape, more interesting visual landscape when I
02:01 look through my viewfinder on my camera. And we're also using wire that I have put
02:08 through the head of my octopus, unfortunately.
02:11 But I need to have something that I can control him as I'm moving him through the
02:15 scene, so wire is work, worked well for me.
02:19 You can also use fishing line. Both of these tools are really easy to
02:23 edit out in your image editing software before you animate.
02:28 So I just like using something thin and something non obstructive or non intrusive.
02:33 also in front of our drop cloth I've got some of these little sea rocks and these
02:38 are just used in aquariums. You can find them at pet stores or in
02:44 garden shops I'm using a rubber band to keep the octopuses tentacles together.
02:50 When he starts out in his animation. And then I'm going to slowly release them.
02:55 And that's pretty much what's going on within the stage.
02:59 Now to actually take the series of photographs.
03:04 I have a couple of tools that I'm using. First I have my Shutter Release button.
03:08 And this is important just because, I am going to check and see what the
03:12 composition looks like. But it's going to be hard for me to keep
03:16 running back and forth as I moving my octopus through the scene.
03:20 So, I want to be able to hold him take a shot, reposition him, take another shot
03:25 And so on and so forth. Until I have a nice sequential series of
03:30 photographs that's going to look great once I animate them.
03:33 So right now I'm just going to check out the scene, see how much of this light box
03:37 is visible, because I don't really want to have these green walls in the shot.
03:43 That would be really distracting. So ideally I would only have this area to
03:46 this area just, the plain background and the nice drop cloth.
03:51 So I'm going to give that a look see what I've got here.
03:54 And zoom in just a little bit because I see some of the corners of my seascape
04:00 and I don't like that very much. And now I'm going to place my octopus and
04:06 right now I just want him to be slightly visible, so he's just peeking out.
04:12 And I'm going to check one more time and make sure I'm focused on him, that is
04:16 going to be important. Yes, okay.
04:20 So, now that I know my camera setup, I feel secure about that.
04:25 I like my backdrop. I like my lightbox.
04:28 I've also got some lighting up here because while my light box in the studio
04:32 is pretty useful. We've also got these studio lights going
04:36 on while we're filming. So there's some shadows being cast, and I
04:40 needed an added light above my light box just to shine down.
04:45 And prevent any other distracting shadows.
04:47 So we're looking good. And I'm going to start moving my guy.
04:51 So I just took one shot, but I'm going to take another one.
04:54 And then I'm going to lift him up, so that he looks like he's in the process of
04:59 swimming through the scene. Take another one.
05:06 Release some more of his tentacles. Take another one.
05:10 While you're also taking these shots, it's wise to think about where you want
05:14 your craft to end up. This is going to become a movie, so if
05:18 you want a starting point and an ending point, that's going to make for a much
05:21 more cohesive. flip book style movie.
05:26 And then we'll give him a landing point. And I'm just going to quickly check
05:30 through here and see how those look. Clicking through.
05:34 Oh, it looks great. I'm really excited about that.
05:37 So, now I have my content and what I would do next is download these photographs.
05:42 I would mask out my wire. And then, I would use iMovie which is
05:46 really easy just to import all the movies and then, you can animate them straight away.
05:52 Or I would maybe make an animated gift with Photoshop.
05:55 There's all kinds of options for animating your still images.
05:58 So you can look online and see there is some free application.
06:02 But I use iMovie and make animated just some photoshop all the times.
06:06 So either one of those options is going to give you really results for
06:09 animating your still images into a core movie.
06:13 And one more thing you can really boost the coolness of this craft.
06:18 By just changing slightly, as you're moving your octopus, or whatever it is
06:22 you're special craft. You can move the elements within your
06:26 stage just slightly as you take each photograph.
06:28 I've done this project, this exact project, where I've had a school of fish,
06:31 on a white piece of paper. And I just moved it, took a picture,
06:35 moved it, took a picture. And as I was moving my octopus, as I was
06:38 moving the sea grass, I was also moving the fish.
06:41 It just gives the whole thing a more natural feeling.
06:44 It's a little bit more work when you're staging it, and you kind of wish you had
06:47 more hands. But the end result is super cool.
06:51 So I totally recommend that you try making a movie out of animated stills.
06:57 And maybe start with the basic one, but see how creative you can get with it.
07:01 Make all kinds of different changes. As you go along, and I think you're
07:04 going to be really pleased with the results.
07:05 (MUSICMUSIC)
07:32
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Lenses: Choosing the right one for the job
00:01 Like every craft project, there are different tools that you need to get the
00:04 job done. Same thing goes with photography.
00:09 This is not a movie about how to make a needle felted owl.
00:13 This is a movie about how to shoot a needle felted owl.
00:17 There are different tools for every project, there are different lenses for
00:20 every project. I'm going to talk about three that I use
00:22 all the time. They're really versatile, and they're
00:25 really different too. So, this first lens is something that I love.
00:31 I've, I've used it ever since I got my digital SLR's, actually a 17 to 40
00:34 millimeter focal length, and it's a zoom lens so that's really great for me
00:38 because I can get a nice versatile shot. I use this anytime I'm shooting a craft.
00:46 And I'm in a position where it's not a fixed location.
00:50 I can move around, or I can stay in one spot.
00:53 There could be action happening. In fact, I use this all week when I was
00:56 shooting little pictures of my owl here. I could with the zoom lens I could really
01:01 get in close, or pull back. Kind of take into consideration the
01:05 different frames. And that's one of the nice things about this.
01:09 It's also it's for me it was kind of an expensive lens.
01:14 I do shoot on a budget. I craft on a budget.
01:18 But it is worth it sometimes to invest in something that's just a little bit more
01:21 high end. This is one of the red line L series.
01:26 Canon lenses and it's so crisp, it's so clear, and like I said, it's really versatile.
01:31 The downside to this is that it's a bit heavy.
01:33 So if you're going to be shooting all day long just remember to put your camera
01:37 down or have a nice comfortable bag that you can wear over your shoulders when
01:40 you're carrying it. Because that is one of the things about
01:44 these bigger lenses and the zoom lenses, there's a lot more glass in there to
01:48 accommodate for the changes in focal length.
01:51 So it's much, much heavier. But my second favorite lens of all time
01:56 is the 50 millimeter lens. And this is a fixed lens, meaning you
02:00 can't zoom in or out. You need to move around if you want to
02:04 get a different if you want to get a different composition.
02:08 And the, the fixed lenses are typically much faster.
02:12 They have a wider aperture. So it's great for getting depth of field shots.
02:16 In fact, if I wanted to take some really nice shots of these different snail shell
02:20 candles, I could line them up. And I would probably use my 50 millimeter
02:24 lens, just because I can get a really great sense of depth just by using this lens.
02:30 This is also something that whenever I"m shooting a specific product shot, or one
02:35 specific craft, I will, I will use my little light box set up.
02:41 And just when things are static, when things are set in one place, I will use
02:45 just my fixed lense because. This isn't changing.
02:51 This is a constant. And so I can be creative with my angles.
02:54 And I can move around. But my lens is going to stay the same.
02:57 And I always get great shots. I love this lens so much.
03:01 The last lens that I is actually pretty new to me, is the wide angle lens.
03:05 It's a 24 millimeter. What it does that is, is different from
03:09 the 50 millimeter, is that because it's a wider angle lens, you can get, kind of
03:12 get creative with your composition. You can, sort of be more playful with
03:17 your images almost, because, you have more to work with in the frame.
03:22 So, whereas this, the drawback is that, you always have to move around to get a
03:26 different, you know, shot through your viewfinder This is neat even though it's
03:29 fixed and doesn't zoom, it's just got more in the frame.
03:34 So, it's kind of like a whole new perspective, and if you do go with a 24,
03:38 or a 50 millimeter lens just to try things out.
03:42 I recommend just stick one of these lenses on your camera and then just shoot
03:46 for like a week solid because, your eye is going to start to train itself in
03:50 finding really neat compositions, and understanding how you need to work as a
03:54 photographer with a fixed lens. It, it is a little bit of a discipline
04:00 that you need to learn. But it's so worth it, because the results
04:03 are really interesting, and, while it can be frustrating if you're shooting with
04:07 one of these lenses and you really want to zoom in and you just can't, I
04:10 really, really, really love how crystal clear these images are, and the great
04:13 versatility with depth of field. Of course that said, if I want to go
04:19 versatility, I do stick with my zoom lens.
04:23 So, for different examples of when I would use these, the zoom lens I use,
04:27 again, when I'm shooting and I'm all over the place.
04:31 I'm looking for different locations, I want to get in and out and, and, you
04:35 know, just try different things. For these, if I just want to get a nice,
04:39 quick shot with an open aperture, then I would go with a fixed lens, specifically
04:43 the 50 millimeter, just because it has such a really nice framing and it's, it's
04:48 very similar to how your eye sees things. And then for the wide angle, I would
04:55 probably use this, either again in a, a probably a larger light box situation
04:58 than this since it has more to, more to see in the view finder.
05:04 But maybe if I were outside, you know, shooting a craft.
05:07 One individual craft within a field, and you kind of had to like look around at
05:10 the composition, get your eye moving to find that individual craft, you would,
05:14 you would use something like this just because there is more to work with.
05:19 So, different options, and obviously there are, thousands of lenses.
05:25 You could spend so much money buying different camera lenses, and that's fine
05:28 if you can. I am on a budget, so I only have a few
05:31 lenses that I really want to get to know before I add more to my collection.
05:37 But you know, you can also rent lenses from a lot of different photography
05:41 stores and studios, so check your local photo stores just to see what's available.
05:47 You might be able to just rent a lens and check, and just try it out for awhile
05:49 before you make the commitment. But yeah.
05:53 Those are about, these are the lenses that I use and why I use them, and when I
05:56 use them. So as you're buying lenses, think about
06:00 what you're interested in. If it's just versatility, or if it's just
06:03 product shots. And you can make the call yourself.
06:06
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Project: Shooting a highly reflective handmade craft
00:00 (audio playing)
00:02 So I'm just here in the garden taking some photographs of a craft I've made.
00:06 And it's really, really sunny out. The craft I've made has some glass around it.
00:12 And it's actually sitting on a pond. So there's a lot of reflection going on.
00:17 Now, reflection can be used in ways to enhance a photograph as well as distract
00:21 from it. So it's up to you to decide if you like
00:24 the, the reflection you're getting, or if you think it's too much.
00:29 Actually, if you start looking around in catalogs and advertisements, you're
00:32 probably going to see a lot more reflections than you ever noticed before.
00:36 I'm a total sucker for photographs of vases and mirrors.
00:40 Things like that I see in catalogs I'm always looking for the reflection.
00:44 Can I see part of the stage that's. That's supposed to be off camera.
00:48 Can I see the photographer? I find that it's really interesting.
00:51 But if you think it's distracting, we can diffuse light.
00:54 Like we have in some previous movies. For this movie, however, I'm getting a
00:59 reflection of the goldfish in the water of the pond.
01:03 And it's making a really cool mirrored effect.
01:06 And because the pond is black down below, it's really enhancing the mirrored effect.
01:10 And it's making the composition look really cool.
01:12 It's like the fish is looking down at itself.
01:14 So I'm going to take a few shots, but. Something that I'm using to help me out
01:19 is that I've got this little filter on the end of my lens.
01:24 And it's just a UV filter but it's cutting back on a little bit of glare.
01:27 These are great. You can pick these up anywhere.
01:30 And if you don't have the money to buy one, or if you're not that interested in it.
01:35 You can also try shooting a craft through a pair of sunglasses.
01:38 And that's also going to cut back on the reflection that you're getting off the
01:41 water and make for a nice photograph. But for this photograph, because we've
01:45 got a dark surface underneath the reflective light surface, we're getting a
01:48 really cool image. So it's just up to you to decide whether
01:52 the reflections you get in your crafts are beneficial or distracting from the image.
01:58 And then, plan accordingly. In this case I like it so I'm just
02:01 going to keep on shooting.
02:03 (audio playing)
02:15
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Project: Shooting an extremely fibrous handmade craft
00:01 When you're shooting a really fibrous craft, something soft and fuzzy like this
00:04 knitted baby cap, you have a couple of options as far as how you want to shoot it.
00:08 And right now, I'm going to show you a quick tip to really bring out the fibers
00:13 and show off the texture of the hat. And one way to do that is by lighting it
00:18 from the side. You can also light it from the top.
00:20 The same thing is going to happen. But as we do that, you can see that
00:23 within this ribbed hat, every single ribbing, every single knit stitch I've
00:27 got here is casting its own individual shadow.
00:32 And that's going to really pop out on my camera.
00:34 In fact, I'm going to take a picture of this and just make sureSOUND I like it.
00:40 I do. You know, one other thing about bringing
00:43 out the the fibers here. This craft is orange, it's got some white
00:47 in it, some light colors, so I opted to shoot it on a black background.
00:51 And if I wanted to get in really close and get a nice detail shot of this, I
00:54 would be able to see all those fibers in perfect detail against the nice, black background.
01:01 So having some contrast with your craft is a really great way to bring out the
01:04 fibers of it. Now, if I wanted to shoot this craft in
01:08 the opposite way, if I wanted to, kind of, not wash it out but just soften it up
01:13 a little bit, all I would do is move my light straight to the front.
01:20 And that's just going to soften everything up.
01:22 It's going to kind of get rid of the hard lines.
01:24 And it's going to give us a different effect.
01:26 So I'm going to move my light and show you what I mean by that.
01:28 Okay. All right.
01:40 So now I'm, I've got my craft lit straight on.
01:42 I'm going to take a quick shot and see if I like this.
01:48 And already the effect is really different.
01:50 So, this is just a really quick way to take a look at two different options as
01:54 far as shooting your fibrous craft, but one other thing that I would want to
01:58 mention is this craft is overall soft. There are no hard parts, no little
02:04 plastic bits or googly eyes or anything like that.
02:07 If I was shooting a craft that was, say, a stuffed animal, or a toy that had
02:11 little bright eyes, I would consider shooting with a very shallow depth of
02:15 field so that the focus is on the eyes, and then the rest of the craft is nice
02:19 and soft. That actually brings out the eye, but it
02:24 makes the rest of the craft kind of soften up even more, so that's another option.
02:29 You can just, you can focus on one point within your craft and then everything
02:32 else falls away, that's the way depth of field works, but it works really well
02:35 when you've got a nice soft craft. And if I were shooting something that
02:40 were super, super light, like something white or yellow, I would probably want to
02:43 put that on a light background if I was going for a shallow depth of field.
02:48 So, you have a couple of options. You can shoot from the side or from above
02:51 and get that nice hard shadow, which is going to give you the really nice, fine
02:54 texture of the individual craft. Or you can swing your light around and
03:00 shoot it from the front. It's just going to soften everything up
03:03 and give you a completely different texture.
03:05 Right now, I'm using the black background on the light craft, so you could go for
03:09 that, or you could also go light on light, play with depth of field, focus on
03:12 one little area, one eyeball. And you're going to have all kinds of
03:17 options for shooting your really soft and fluffy crafts.
03:21 Either way you're going to get great results, so practice, play around with
03:23 it, see what you like, but either way, I think you're going to enjoy, and I think
03:26 you're going to be happy with what you get.
03:29
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3. Image Editing in Photoshop and Lightroom
Removing skin imperfections
00:02 In this movie, we're going to look at a couple of ways to correct imperfections
00:05 in the skin. And imperfections in the skin are
00:09 completely natural. I'm talking about wrinkles, blemishes,
00:13 moles, freckles, whatever. And so we're looking at a photograph here
00:17 of me. And I am wearing these three little
00:20 button earrings, and well, it's not a super-detailed product shot.
00:25 It's just kind of putting in context this craft, if you were a person who had
00:29 multiple piercings in their ear, which I have.
00:34 So, here it is, and it's just kind of showing the craft not in super detail,
00:37 but just how it would look on a person. And I have identified a couple of areas
00:43 that I am sensitive about. Normally, I'm not super crazy about
00:49 removing a lot of wrinkles or moles. The textures of our skin, you know, it
00:54 makes us who we are, and we're who we are.
00:58 We're human. We don't all have like perfect baby skin.
01:02 But I remember not so long ago, I was making a necklace and I was really proud
01:06 of it. I was really excited to show it to a
01:09 certain friend of mine. So, as soon as I was done, I put it on, I
01:12 took a photo, and I sent it to him via email and I asked him what he thought.
01:17 And right away he responded with hey, that necklace is cool.
01:21 But wow, you sure have a lot of wrinkles in your neck.
01:25 And I thought, wow, you are so mean. But I also thought, wow, what an
01:30 ineffective photograph to sell a necklace.
01:34 You know, it was just a snapshot. But if there are wrinkles in my neck
01:37 that are distracting the viewer from the actual craft, that's not a good thing.
01:42 So, it's, it's a good (LAUGH) idea to have a couple of handy tools in your back
01:46 pocket for just cleaning up skin imperfections.
01:50 Wrinkles, just the normal things that make us all human, if they're distracting
01:54 from the craft. So, within this photograph, it's
01:58 basically a head shot, but I happened to be wearing a very small craft.
02:03 So, your eyes could wander around and sort of, you know, maybe critique parts
02:08 of my skin. And that's fine.
02:11 But I just am going to Zoom In, and show you a couple of things that I am going to
02:14 teach you how to get rid of today. And one of them is, removing wrinkles and
02:20 blemishes and little things like that. And then another one is removing little
02:25 trouble areas that you might be sensitive about, like my little baby double chin here.
02:30 So, first of all, before we get started, I am going to Duplicate my Background
02:35 layer, and I'm doing that just as a mode of insurance.
02:40 If I make some critical error that I'm really not happy with, I can always go
02:44 back and have my original data within my Background layer.
02:49 So, I've duplicated it by Right-clicking on this blue highlighted background, and
02:54 selecting Duplicate Layer. Now I'm going to Save this image as let's
03:01 see, let's call it Double Chin Touch Up, because that is where I'd like to start.
03:12 So, the way that you can just gently modify parts of your body, or a model's
03:18 body that you're not super happy with. Or by going up here to your toolbox and
03:24 Selecting the Marquee tool. Now, I am just going to Draw a little box
03:29 around the area that bothers me. Something to note is that, you really
03:35 don't want to go crazy with this technique.
03:39 While it's a super-cool thing to know how to do.
03:43 Changing the shape of your body, or your model's body, in a photograph really,
03:48 really dramatically could lead to unrealistic looking or just awkward
03:54 looking final product. So, you know, while it might be tempting
04:00 to make you look three or four dress sizes smaller, I'd really caution you to
04:04 just kind of use this tool in moderation. So, anyway, that's my little disclaimer,
04:11 and now that we have this Marquee Box drawn around my chin, I'm going to click
04:15 Cmd+T on a Mac, Ctrl+T on a PC. Or I could also Right-click it and hit
04:22 Re-Transform, but I'm just going to go ahead and click Cmd+T.
04:27 And now, you can see that I've got this Transform box with my little arrows that
04:32 show up. And so, I could stretch this out, I could
04:35 shrink this area, I could rotate the selection, but I don't want to do any of that.
04:40 I want to Right-click and Select the Warp function.
04:45 Now, when I Hit Warp, this grid appears, and this is so cool.
04:50 Because all you have to do is just gently Click and Push your skin, Push the body
04:55 in the direction that you would like it to go.
04:59 And this is where I have to (LAUGH) hesitate and just say, really do use caution.
05:04 Because if you change the shape of your skin so much, obviously that looks kind
05:09 of crazy and totally unnatural, and actually a bit scary.
05:13 So I'm just going to to Pull it back down to a point where I'm happy with it, and
05:18 I'm going to Double-click, or Hit Return and let that process.
05:24 And then I'm going to Deselect by hitting Cmd or Ctrl+D, and I think that that
05:28 already looks better. That's just me, maybe being really vain.
05:34 But when I Deselect the Double Chin layer so that only the background is showing,
05:39 and then Click to View the touched up Double Chin layer.
05:45 I'm already much happier with this. Now, it's a little bit pointy over here,
05:49 I'm almost getting a little bit of a witch chin.
05:52 So I'm going to Zoom in there, and I'm going to do the same thing.
05:56 I'm going to to just create a really quick Marquee tool and Right-click> Hit
06:01 Free Transform. Right-click again for Warp, and I'm just
06:06 going to Push that little witch chin in place and it's subtle, but yeah.
06:13 I just want it to look natural. So I'm going to Deselect.
06:16 And you know, while I'm in here, I'm just going to grab the Clone Stamp tool.
06:21 Check my opacity. Lower my brush, my brush size a little bit.
06:27 And really just do some minor, minor touch up work, just so that it really
06:31 does look natural, because that is the most important thing.
06:36 I know it might seem vain that I'm changing the shape of my chin.
06:40 But first and foremost, I don't want anybody else to be distracted when they
06:44 look at this photograph and frankly, that includes me.
06:47 If I am taking a craft photograph of myself as the model, and there's
06:50 something that I absolutely hate within the photograph.
06:54 And it's just one of those personal things, we all have them, that we're
06:58 uncomfortable with about ourselves. I don't mind changing it, but I just
07:02 don't want to change it to the point where I don't even look either like
07:05 myself or human (LAUGH) So that said, I feel okay about the
07:09 change I've made here with my chin. And now I'm going to go ahead and attack
07:13 these wrinkles that are apparently distracting a friend of mine.
07:19 So the way we're going to do that is actually duplicate this double chin layer.
07:23 So I'm going to right-click this again, and select Duplicate Layer.
07:28 And now I'm going to call this one Wrinkle free.
07:36 Hit OK. And now you can see that with the blue
07:38 layer highlighted, I have a new layer to work with, and I won't be damaging my
07:42 double chin touch up or my Background layer.
07:46 So, I've Zoomed way in, and I just want to take a look here.
07:53 This area by my ear where all my little wrinkles are.
07:58 And the deep neck wrinkle that was so distracting.
08:03 So, I'm going to go ahead and get rid of that one first.
08:06 And the way I'm going to do that, is by using, the Healing brush.
08:11 And this brush is so cool. It kind of reminds me of the Clone Stamp
08:16 tool, in that the Healing Brush also matches texture, light, and shade.
08:22 But it just paints over surfaces by sampling pixels of surrounding areas.
08:26 So right now my brush size is way, way too big and I'm going to just Drop down
08:29 this menu here. And change the size of my Brush by coming
08:34 down here, that looks about good. I want to have a nice soft brush, I don't
08:40 want a super hard brush, and spacing is probably fine right around there.
08:46 Now my pen pressure, I can either Select it to have Off or Stylus Wheel, or just
08:49 keep it on Pen Pressure. I'm just going to keep the size on Pen
08:55 Pressure, and go right ahead. And what I'm going to do, is with my
08:59 Healing Brush selected, I'm just going to Click>Option on a Mac, Alt on a PC, and
09:04 select an area of skin that has a similar skin tone but happens to be wrinkle free.
09:12 And now I'm just painting over this wrinkle.
09:16 And it really is kind of painting away my, my crease, my little imperfection in
09:21 my skin. So, you want to continue to take
09:25 selections, take samples of the skin, because that is going to give you a more
09:30 natural and even tone. But I am seeing some things happening
09:36 that I don't like. And it's similar to the Clone Stamp tool
09:40 because you can almost see a pattern developing in certain areas.
09:44 So I'm going to go back and do a little bit more touch up work after I'm done
09:49 painting away some of these little darker patches here.
09:54 Now, I don't want to harp on this too much.
09:57 But it really, I don't think it's a good idea to change the way you look too much.
10:04 So I'm not going to get rid of this entire line of wrinkles, because that's
10:08 just the way my ear looks. So I'm okay with that.
10:12 And the only reason I'm really painting away any of these ear wrinkles is because
10:17 this craft does focus on the earrings. And even though it's not a super close up
10:23 product shot. If somebody looked at this, I would just
10:26 want them to notice the earrings and not be thinking about whether or not I have
10:30 super wrinkly ears, or not. That's totally not what I'm going for.
10:36 So hopefully with these two tools, you will feel confident and comfortable just
10:40 slightly altering the imperfections in your skin, or in your model's skin, to
10:44 the point where you're really happy with the ultimate craft photo.
10:50 So, let's just Deselect this wrinkle free layer and see what it looked like before
10:54 the Wrinkle Touch-up. And we'll Deselect the double chin
10:57 before that one, and now we'll, we'll, just select those two layers again, just
11:01 so you can see the before and after. Here is the original, here it is with
11:05 some chin touch ups. Here it is with wrinkle touch ups.
11:08 I like it. I feel good about putting it online and
11:11 showing off my button earrings. So hopefully with these two tools, the
11:16 Warp tool and the Healing Brush, you will be able to correct a whole variety of
11:20 skin imperfections and feel really good about your craft photos that use live models.
11:27
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Using layer masks to improve backgrounds
00:02 In this movie, I'm going to talk about using layer masks to improve the
00:05 backgrounds of your craft photography and I have to make a confession here.
00:11 I showed up pretty late to the party when it came to layer masks.
00:15 I don't know why. At first when I heard about them, they
00:17 sounded kind of intimidating, off putting.
00:20 There was just something about them that made me feel like it wasn't something
00:24 that I could do easily. And I have to tell you, that could not be
00:29 further from the truth. And now that I understand how layer masks
00:33 work, I use them all the time. They're fantastic for removing clutter,
00:38 or little accidents in the backgrounds of photographs, just cleaning up, tidying up
00:43 the composition. Fixing a sky that's slightly underexposed.
00:49 Or, combining two images and using the background from one, and using it in the
00:53 other photograph. And that's what I'm going to show you
00:56 right now. So, I have this photograph, of a little
01:00 needle felted butterfly that I made. And you can see that I shot him out in
01:05 the backyard. I've got a shallow depth of field, but
01:07 I've got a very grassy background. And there's also a little needle felting
01:12 needle just jutting out of his wing here, that was actually my staging tool, to
01:16 hold him up so that I could just dance him around the back yard and take some photographs.
01:22 So I'm going to get rid of this and I'm going to replace the entire background
01:26 with a nice blue sky, because I just think that my butterfly would be happier
01:30 flying in front of a blue sky instead of a green background.
01:35 So I need to do is find a photograph that has a suitable blue, blue sky background
01:39 that I can use and I think I have a good one in mind.
01:44 So I'm going to go ahead and open that up now.
01:47 Better sky masking, yep that's what I'd like.
01:50 Now this is a photo I've used in a different course, but I wanted to pick
01:54 this one just because the foreground, the craft, is not what's in focus here.
01:59 I'm only interested in this sky area. So, I'm just going to crop that out.
02:04 And what I'm going to do is just select it using my Marquis tool, copy with
02:08 Command or Control+C. And I'm going to come on over here, and
02:14 just paste that layer right on in. Now, it's right over the top of my butterfly.
02:20 But that's fine with me, because what I'm going to do, is hit Command or Control+t.
02:25 And now I can see that I've got a bounding box all around this layer.
02:30 And I'm going to just stretch it all the way down.
02:34 So I realize that I have distorted my blue sky because I did not proportionally
02:40 stretch it. But again, because it's a sky you can't
02:46 really tell whether or not it is a proportional or perfect stretch.
02:52 I can just kind of stretch it any way I see fit.
02:55 I just want to get as much of that blue sky in my frame as possible.
02:59 So that looks pretty darn good to me. And we'll still give a little peek
03:03 underneath here and we've got our butterfly.
03:06 So I'm going to go ahead and name this layer, Blue Sky.
03:12 And I'm also going to duplicate my background layer, by just right-clicking,
03:17 and call this, melted butterfly. Whoopsie.
03:23 If I could spell, that'd be nice. Okay, so now I have a duplicate layer of
03:27 my background. And that's just in case I make some error
03:30 or make some mistake that I'm not happy with.
03:33 I have the original data down here. So, I'm going to go ahead and click on my
03:37 Blue Sky layer. And I'm going to go layer > layer mask >
03:42 hide all. Now, you'll notice that when I clicked
03:47 hide all, this little black box appeared over here, and my blue sky completely disappeared.
03:56 All I can see now is my butterfly. And that's exactly what we want, so we're
04:01 going to come on over to the toolbox and grab a paintbrush.
04:05 This brush size looks like it's a little bit small for what we want to do, so that
04:09 looks better. And with our white paint selected and
04:16 using our paintbrush, we're just going to start painting right over that green, and
04:20 you'll notice that the blue sky begins peeking out from under the green grass.
04:26 Now, we're painting away the mask, so that we can expose the image underneath.
04:31 So, I'm just going to grab my paintbrush again, and I'm not going to do a super
04:35 neat job with this, because I'm going to zoom in, and show you what I can do, in
04:38 just a second. So, very quickly, I'm just painting
04:43 around the butterfly. Now I'm just going to zoom in, hitting
04:49 Cmd + Plus, and now I'm going to make my brush a little bit smaller.
04:56 And I'm going to switch the colors that I'm painting.
05:00 So instead of painting white, I'm now going to paint black.
05:05 And by doing that, I can bring back some of the data that I accidentally painted
05:09 over on my butterfly. So, this is how a layer mask works.
05:15 It's really a cool thing. You can push and pull pixels in any direction.
05:21 And since it's a mask, you're not really harming anything.
05:25 You're not losing any data. So what that means is that you can just
05:29 rework a layer mask over and over again until you're really happy with the way it looks.
05:34 So, okay, so that looks pretty good, but there's still a little halo of green.
05:39 So I'm just going to come back, switch my paint to white again, and then get back
05:43 in here and really continue to paint in all the little fine details.
05:49 And that is how a layer mask works. Now, when we created this layer mask, we
05:54 could have come up here and instead of hiding all, we could have revealed all,
05:59 and it basically would have been the same principle.
06:04 Except that instead of revealing the background as we painted, we would have
06:10 been revealing the foreground. So, I am just going to finish this up
06:16 really quickly. And you know, this tool is actually so
06:20 useful that you can do all kinds of thing.
06:23 If you don't want to combine photographs. You can just simply improve the exposure
06:29 or the contrast of your background. And use a layer mask to really blend that
06:34 in to your image seamlessly. So there are all kinds of ways that you
06:39 can use layer masks to improve the backgrounds of your craft photos.
06:43 But hopefully by combining backgrounds, and really improving the overall look of
06:48 your image, you'll be happy with the final outcome.
06:53 So now, I have my finished butterfly and he looks very cute.
06:58 It's not a perfect job, I could still go back and finish in some detail and kind
07:00 of change the color bounds so it looks like he's, he's actually flying.
07:05 I might even consider putting in a little vector graphic here so that it looks like
07:08 he's got a little trail of motion behind him.
07:11 But that's the basic principle, I went from having just a plain butterfly, with
07:16 my little staging tool sticking out of him, straight into a nice, crisp blue sky
07:21 that I took from another photograph entirely.
07:27 Hopefully, you've picked up a couple of tips using layer masks, and you will be
07:32 encouraged to try it in your own craft photography, for improving or combining
07:37 backgrounds of photographs.
07:41
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Adding watermarks and copyright info
00:02 As crafters taking photographs of our creations and projects.
00:05 It's almost inevitable that we're going to start seeing photographs that we took
00:09 for our blog or our store, show up in different places that maybe we didn't
00:13 intend on them showing up. So a good idea is to add a watermark and
00:19 some copyright information to your images.
00:23 This is really just a way of protecting your intellectual property.
00:26 But also, just really labeling your name with that particular image so that, if a
00:31 friend of yours wants to use an image that you've created for a certain blog
00:35 post on their site. And then somebody else picks it up on
00:40 another site, and another site, and another site, there's always a chain that
00:44 leads back to you. First of all, we're just going to add
00:49 very basic watermark information to this image.
00:53 So in order for us to be able to take that watermark information and easily and
00:56 quickly apply it to the rest of the photographs within this bento box series,
01:00 we need to create what's called an action.
01:04 So I'm going to come up here to Window > Action.
01:07 And when I do that, this this little palette pops up.
01:12 So I'm going to Zoom out on my image, so that you can see the entire thing.
01:16 But here within actions, I'm going to come on down here to new page and just
01:20 create a new action. So I need to name this, Radmegan Watermark.
01:31 Okay. So, once I hit Record, everything that I
01:35 do to apply any kind of style or text. Or any kind of alteration I make to my
01:41 image, is going to be recorded here in the action palette, and then applied
01:46 later to the rest of the images in my folder.
01:51 So, I'm hitting Record, and now everything that I do is becoming a part
01:55 of that particular action that will become how we make our Batch process later.
02:01 So I want to start off with just a simple watermark.
02:04 So I'm going to take my Text tool or my Type tool and come on over here, and
02:08 first I want to just start off with a basic copyright logo.
02:12 So on a Mac, you would click Option+G. And if you're using a PC, you would type
02:17 Alt 0169 on your numeric keypad. And then just go ahead and type out
02:23 whatever it is you would like your watermark to say.
02:27 Mine's just going to be pretty straightforward.
02:29 I just want it to say Radmegan. But I want to make a couple quick little
02:33 changes to the font, just so that I'm happy with it and it reflects the logo on
02:37 my blog. And hitting Cmd+T, or Ctrl+T, I'm just
02:41 going to make this a little bit larger. And the reason I'm doing this, the size
02:46 of your watermark is completely and entirely up to you.
02:50 I'm just making mine a little bit bigger, because unfortunately some times people
02:55 steal images from the web. It's not, it's not super common but it
03:00 does happen. So if I'm going to go through the trouble
03:03 of making a watermark image and Batch processing it onto all of my images.
03:09 And if somebody really wants this photograph, and they're going to steal it
03:12 and claim it as their own, perhaps on their own blog.
03:16 I want to make it hard for them to try to remove my watermark.
03:20 Now, again, I'm not saying that it's inevitable that your images will be
03:24 stolen and claimed as somebody else's, but unfortunately I have seen it happen.
03:30 So, yeah, so I like putting my watermark kind of over a pattern or a little bit larger.
03:36 I used to make my watermarks very small and kind of unobtrusive.
03:39 But just for the sake of saving your image, I think most people are used to
03:43 seeing watermarks now so, you know, they're not going to be too upset.
03:48 As long as it's not making it impossible for you to see what the craft is, then I
03:52 recommend making it a little bit bigger. So, that's just how we create the
03:58 physical watermark that you see. Now, if you want to actually embed the
04:03 watermark image within the data of your photograph.
04:07 You would come up to File, and then drop down to File Info, and this huge palette
04:12 opens up. So, there's all kinds of tabs in here
04:16 that have places for you to enter in as much information as you would like.
04:21 You can also see the data of the image that you photographed.
04:26 But just come on in here, click your, your name.
04:29 You can put as much information as you want, your website, your, any of your
04:33 information, and then have Copyright selected.
04:36 And then just go ahead and click OK. And so if I had typed in www.radmegan.com
04:42 or radmegan.blogspot,com, then all of this information would now be embedded
04:47 with in this photograph. So I didn't go ahead and do that, but I
04:52 showed you how, in case you want to just click through and practice and really get
04:56 to know all the panels in there. There is a lot of information and it
05:01 varies based on the version of Photoshop you're using.
05:04 So, just look around in yours and then add only as much as you're comfortable with.
05:08 So, I'm good right now. The data information could be put in here.
05:13 I've got the text overlayed on my, photograph.
05:18 And the last thing I'm going to do is actually just merge these two layers together.
05:23 And the reason I want to do that, is because when I apply this action later on
05:27 to my file of other bento box photographs, the whole process that I
05:31 went through. I don't want to have to save each
05:36 photograph as a layered PSD, a layered Photoshop document.
05:41 Maybe I'm lazy, but if I'm going through the process or going through all the work
05:45 of creating an action to kick off an entire Batch process.
05:50 I want the computer to as much work for me as possible.
05:53 So, I'm just going to come over here and click either Merge Visible or Merge Down
05:57 or Flatten Image. Any of these are going to give you one,
06:01 one cohesive photograph, one layer, and now I think I'm done.
06:06 So I'm just going to double check that this looks good, it's spelled correctly,
06:09 and it's in a place where I'm happy with it.
06:13 And if it is, I'm just going to go ahead and stop my action recording.
06:16 And now I have this Radmegan watermark that's good to go, it's all done.
06:21 So, now what? So now I have an action.
06:24 Well, that's cool. But I need to come up here to File and
06:27 click Automate Batch. Now when click Automate Batch, this
06:33 window appears, and there are three things we need to take a look at.
06:38 First of all Play. So, automatically my action is selected
06:42 to the action I created, Redmegan Watermark.
06:45 But there are all kinds of other actions in here, and so just make sure that the
06:49 one you've created and named, is the one that you're using.
06:54 Now, also my destination, I can choose None.
06:58 And what would happen there is that my logo, my little watermark would be
07:02 applied to every single photograph that I choose, but then nothing else will happen.
07:09 It wouldn't be saved and it wouldn't be closed and it wouldn't organized in a
07:12 nice, neat manner. And again, like I said if I am going
07:15 through the trouble of creating an action, I want this computer to do as
07:18 much work for me as possible. So I could do the same thing with Save
07:22 and Close, but I'm actually just going to choose a specific folder, because I want
07:26 this to go somewhere else. I wanted make sure that my original
07:30 images are untouched and unchanged, so I need to choose Destination Folder and
07:35 then choose the folder that I want. So I want to find my desktop.
07:42 I want to choose the folder where all of my images are going to be saved.
07:48 So, I'm just going to go ahead and click here, adding water, adding copy watermark.
07:53 That is the movie that we are working in. And I'm going to create a new folder
07:56 within here, because these are all the original images that I have.
08:01 But I want to create a special place for them to go.
08:04 So, these are just going to be the processed images.
08:07 So, I'll say Create and then, I'm going to hit Choose.
08:10 Now I'm going to leave my document name, plus extension, and now I'm going to
08:13 choose my original folder where all of the information is going to come from.
08:18 And here we are in the Bento box series, needing watermarks.
08:22 So, I'm going to say, Choose, and hit OK. So every single image is going to ask me
08:28 if this is okay. And they all look good, so I am just
08:31 going to go ahead and click OK. And you can see what's happening right
08:37 now is that my, my watermark is being applied to every image within my batch of
08:42 Bento box process shot. So, it's cool to see that this is all happening.
08:50 I'm really happy with it. And all I have to do is just click, with
08:53 one click of the button, just say OK, and everything will be applied.
08:59 So it's really cutting back on the amount of work I have to do.
09:03 And now really there's no excuse for you not to use watermarks in your craft
09:08 photography, because it's just so easy with an action.
09:14 So now, if I go back and open up the folder that all of my images were just
09:19 saved to, I can open one up and take a look and I can see my nifty watermark.
09:27 So I'm just going to open up another one, and make sure they all look really good.
09:33 And they all have my watermark. So, I'm excited about this.
09:36 So, that's how you would add that your watermark in a batch operation to a
09:40 series of photographs. And if you don't have a series, you can
09:44 just do it to one or two. But hopefully that helps you get an
09:47 entire group of images completed with your watermark information for your craft photography.
09:54
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4. Next Steps
Shooting for a client
00:00 Let's assume that you've been hired to shoot photography for somebody else's craft.
00:05 It's a huge compliment, but it's also a huge responsibility.
00:07 You're being paid now, so there are a few things that you need to consider before
00:10 and after you accept the job. First of all, now that you're shooting
00:14 somebody else's crafts, what you want to do is really take into consider, into
00:18 consideration who your client is. Before you go and meet with them.
00:23 figure out who they are. What they do.
00:26 If you already know them then that's fine.
00:28 But really get familiar with what their style of crafting is.
00:31 And what, what kind of things they make. What kinds of photographs they like.
00:36 And then when you show up to talk to them about the shoot.
00:39 A lot of times people really have a hard time articulating exactly what it is they
00:42 want from you. So if you can show up with some good.
00:46 Examples. Visual examples, like do you like this
00:48 style of photography. Do you like that style of photography?
00:51 That really helps clients kind of clarify what they're looking for.
00:56 And sort of crystalise that image in their mind.
00:58 Before you go off and shoot, and then come back and they say, nah not really
01:01 what I was looking for. So get to know your client before you
01:04 start shooting for them. And then when you got out on your shoot,
01:08 really show up prepared. So, the client that I'm shooting for
01:12 makes these little silver rings, but they kind of have like a nature motif about them.
01:17 So, they wanted something that reflected that.
01:20 So before I came out to this park today, I was sure to bring everything I would
01:24 need, and more. That's the other thing you need to take
01:28 into consideration when you're shooting for a client, always be prepared.
01:31 So I've got my case here. It has all of my camera equipment in it.
01:35 I'm just going to open it up. And I just really want to be prepared
01:39 today, just in case the weather changes, in case there's something going on that I
01:44 haven't anticipated. I have some different lenses, I've got a flash.
01:51 I'm not sure if I'm going to use it in this shoot.
01:53 I'm really working with natural light right now, but.
01:55 If things changed, I would want to be prepared.
01:59 And I wouldn't want to have to ever go back to the client and say, hey I didn't
02:01 get the shot, sorry. That does not fly.
02:04 Actually, I'm going to need my camera. Let me grab this.
02:10 I also have my tripod with me. Trusty tripod for when it does get dark, and.
02:17 Any lighting equipment you can bring would be terrific.
02:19 If you're low on lighting equipment because maybe this is your first time
02:23 shooting for a client or just because you're on a budget, these five in one
02:26 reflectors are a great thing. We've got several different ways that we
02:32 can add light and it kind of adds credibility to you.
02:36 You don't really want to show up to a professional shoot with.
02:40 a homemade concoction. It's okay for your own crafts.
02:44 But when other people are involved, you, you want to look professional.
02:48 You want to represent. So I've got this here.
02:50 I could use this to diffuse the light. I've got a couple of different options
02:55 for adding light. The bottom line is that I am prepared for
02:58 any scenario. And that is one of the most important
03:01 things when you're shooting for somebody else.
03:03 You really need to take care. Treat their craft with respect, but treat
03:07 yourself and them with respect too. This is a job, you're being paid for it,
03:11 it's not a favor so take it seriously. The last tip for shooting for a client.
03:18 Take so many pictures. Take as many angles, take as many
03:22 settings, give them as many options as possible.
03:25 Well, first give yourself as many options as possible, and then you go ahead and
03:29 choose the best photos and bring those back to the client.
03:33 They're going to be astounded with what you've come up with, impressed by your
03:36 professionalism, your good attitude, and they'll probably recommend you to all
03:39 their friends. So it's a great way to get some more
03:43 business off of this first craft job. So, I actually have to get to work, so
03:53 I'm going to take a few shots and see what I come up with.
04:09
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Caring for your gear
00:01 I want to take a second to talk about the gear that we take on a photoshoot.
00:05 The equipment that we take to actually get the photo, get the nice image and
00:07 then also, the equipment that we're bringing to take a photo of.
00:11 So, in front of me here, I have several different pieces that are going to help
00:15 us both take photos, and protect the images and protect all of our equipment.
00:20 And right here I've got this hard pelican case.
00:23 These are really great because (audio playing) as you can hear, its got a hard case.
00:27 So it would be protected from wind, weather, elements, water.
00:32 But also, in case it gets dropped a little bit, it's going to be nice and sturdy.
00:36 if you have a structured padded bag, that's great too, but you just want
00:39 something that's going to separate all of your lenses, you camera, your flash.
00:44 And just have some nice compartments so that everything is nice and snug.
00:47 This one happens to be a hard case like I said, but the soft structured cases are
00:51 just fine as well. So, in this case we've got our camera,
00:55 and (COUGH) I shoot quite often with my 17 to 40 millimeter lens just because
00:59 it's so versatile, and gets some good shots, nice and close.
01:05 It's got a really sharp lens which I like but, I also, rarely leave home without my
01:10 50 millimeter lens. And this is because it takes wonderful
01:15 portrait shots. Really great product shots.
01:18 It kind of mimics the way your eyes sees. It's very accurate as far as what you
01:21 see, but it's a fixed lens. So that means you need to move around to
01:25 get a good shot. You can't zoom in and out with it.
01:27 Um,COUGH I take this with me so frequently that I've invested in this
01:32 little suede bag. I usually just wrap this around my belt
01:35 if I'm not taking this entire case with me.
01:38 This might be something that I'm taking if I'm going to be in one location for a
01:41 while to shoot, but if I'm just going off to.
01:45 Go for a hike or shoot one thing out somewhere else, I'll take my 17 to 40
01:48 millimeter, and I'll throw my 50 millimeter in this protected case and
01:52 throw it around my belt loop. I don't want to put this lens in my purse
01:58 or my backpack to rattle around, that's just way too scary for me, so.
02:02 Keep it protected, keep it safe. I've also got a lens in here, I've got, a
02:07 cloth that is specific for cleaning lenses.
02:10 I know that some people clean their lenses on tissues, or your shirt, but you
02:14 really can scratch your lens when you do that, so be mindful of what you're
02:18 cleaning your camera with, because. It can affect the way you're taking photos.
02:25 I've got a light meter for tricky lighting situations, a telephoto lens.
02:30 I also rarely leave home without Ziploc baggies, twist ties, things like that In
02:34 case it gets a little damp outside. And I want to create a hood for my camera.
02:39 If I have a great shot set up. And I don't want to abort the mission.
02:44 Then I'll just kind of get this little rain slicker if you will.
02:48 And cover my camera. Make sure my lens is protected to get the shot.
02:52 Also for low light situations, you've gotta have a tripod.
02:56 There's no way around it. If you really want a long exposure, a
02:58 tripod's the only way to go. It's just a fantastic tool.
03:01 And this one's really large and heavy, but they also have portable tripods that
03:06 have like bendy legs, and those can fit anywhere, in your pocket, in your camera case.
03:13 Even in your purse or twist it around the strap of your camera.
03:17 They're really versatile so, these are my photographic tools that we, I don't leave
03:21 home without when I'm on a shoot. But there's more to show you and more
03:26 that's going to help us get a great shot. So, I'm going to put these down and show
03:30 you something else I've got here. So, I also like to have a variety of
03:35 backgrounds with me. Right now these are just wrapped up in
03:40 paper, but normally I like to store a whole variety of these backgrounds in a
03:44 poster tube. I've got my black, my white, my middle grey.
03:48 I just like to keep them all safe because paper's expensive too, and I don't want
03:52 to have to keep rebuying nice expensive paper and pretty backgrounds every time I
03:56 go on a shoot. If you have a flat file at home, store
04:00 that paper in there, but if you don't have that kind of space, a poster tube
04:03 that you can get for mailing things is just as effective.
04:08 So keep your paper safe, keep it dry. Keep it out of the way.
04:11 Oh, keep it dry? Yeah, your camera equipment, by the way,
04:14 when you're not using your lenses, or any of your camera equipment, please be
04:17 mindful of where you're storing it. Not, keep out of excessive heat, out of
04:22 excessive cold. And for crying out loud, don't store your
04:25 camera equipment in a damp area. That can really affect your lens.
04:29 So be careful of moisture with paper and your sensitive electronics.
04:35 Now, the crafts. I'm not shooting at my house today.
04:39 In fact, I traveled quite a distance to get here.
04:41 And I wanted to bring some crafts with me.
04:43 So. I had to get pretty resourceful with how
04:46 I was bringing them. I've got a few different crafts here.
04:50 I have a very delicate ceramic vase, and I have some very delicate paper products
04:55 and then, I also have an extremely fibrous craft and they all were packed.
05:02 In different ways. This one is so soft and flimsy that I was
05:05 worried about maybe my little owl coming apart in transit.
05:10 So it's always a good idea to bring back up equipment.
05:13 I've got my little felting needles and I've got some felting fluff here so in
05:17 case little owly fell off of his tree I could do a little patch job on the scene.
05:23 And when I'm not using him. I've got my um,SOUND my fun whatever
05:28 these are called hm, popping papers. I can't think of the name right now, and.
05:37 And at least he's protected. With these, there's so many of them, I
05:40 wanted to keep them safe, and not get them squished in transit, so, I just
05:44 recycled some old plastic container I had around the house.
05:48 This doesn't have to apply for every craft but, because it was so delicate I
05:51 just didn't want them to get squished in some other, you know, against some other
05:54 heavier craft in the box. So giving them their own container keeps
05:59 them safe. But finally, this was my most stressful
06:03 craft to ship. It's a one of a kind, it's ceramic, and I
06:06 was really afraid it was going to break. In fact, I've shipped quite a few glass
06:11 globes, jars, things like that. It's kind of stressful shipping stuff
06:15 like that. But here's the secret.
06:17 Pack it full of tissue, packing material, packing peanuts, whatever.
06:22 And then put in it in a box that's also packed up really nicely.
06:27 Seal this box, and then put it in another box, filled with packing material.
06:31 That's the only way to ship really delicate, fragile items.
06:36 And for my money, that's the only way to go.
06:40 I've tried other ways where the craft is in the box, and then there's just like
06:43 zillions and zillions of packing peanuts. There's no guarantee that that is going
06:47 to stay safe. But if it's in one box and another, it's
06:50 going to arrive safe. So that's how we protect the gear that
06:54 we're using, how we protect the gear that we are photographing and, how we just
06:58 make sure that we're having a safe, and responsible, and fun craft photo shoot
07:02 wherever we are. Whether it's at home or across the country.
07:08
Collapse this transcript
Forecasting challenges
00:01 When you're shooting the field, there are always different factors and challenges
00:04 you want to think about. Whether it's weather, or your particular
00:08 location where you're setting up your craft.
00:10 There's always going to be that element of the unexpected when you're out in the field.
00:15 So, today when we came here on our shoot, we actually asked the land owner where
00:19 the sun rises and where the sun sets. And that was just to make ourselves as
00:24 prepared as possible to try to break up our day into a nice, workable chunk.
00:28 But there's no guarantee it's going to work out the way you plan it, but when
00:32 you show up to a craft shoot, having a plan is always a good start.
00:38 So now that the sun is setting, it's becoming more of a challenge for us to
00:40 take some photos. You know, we have to kind of chase the sun.
00:43 Shadows are moving. You need to keep changing your exposure.
00:46 And finding a nice place. But that's nothing.
00:50 I mean, it's a gorgeous day today. When you're out shooting in the field
00:54 anything could happen. You could have rain, snow, a whole host
00:57 of mother nature's finest choices. And when you bring your crafts out into
01:02 the field, they're vulnerable. So if you've got paper crafts, things
01:06 that are delicate, just be mindful of what the weather's like and where you're
01:09 setting them. You don't want to put this beautiful
01:12 thing that you've made in a puddle and ruin it, or, you know, get it dirty by
01:15 placing it somewhere you haven't really thought out.
01:19 And while we're talking about how you're placing your crafts, I personally have
01:23 had plenty of experiences where I set up a craft, it looks good, I'm about to take
01:27 the photo, and a big gust of wind comes through and knocks it over.
01:33 Sometimes, it even breaks, and that is heartbreaking in itself, but, if you show
01:37 up with proper staging tools, and good photo equipment, and just try to really
01:41 think about how the environment is impacting your craft, you'll be more
01:45 successful in your craft shoot. let's see.Aas far as weather goes.
01:53 Yeah. Oh, your gear.
01:54 Think about your camera. If it starts raining.
01:57 Maybe you shove a couple of plastic baggies in your craft, or in your camera bag.
02:03 Also you should have a camera bag. If you're working with lenses, you don't
02:06 want to just have them like rattling around in your purse or in your backpack.
02:09 Really protect the gear that you've got. It's an investment, and it's going to
02:12 last a lot longer the better you take care of it.
02:16 Same goes with the craft photograph that you are setting up.
02:19 Look for smudges in the background anything that needs to be cleared away.
02:23 That's just going to save you editing time later on.
02:25 If you really show up prepared with yourself, your camera, think about your
02:28 environment, and then think about your shoot when you're setting it up.
02:33 You're going to have a more successful craft photo day.
02:35 And with that I need to go chase the sun, so I'm going to go get a couple more
02:39 photos before we're out of here, but, be safe, be prepared, and good luck.
02:44
Collapse this transcript
Respecting spaces
00:00 26, 1, 1. (audio playing) So, I'm here in this garden today
00:05 with this great video crew. And we're shooting this video on Craft Photography.
00:09 But there's a couple things to think about when you're shooting in somebody
00:12 else's space. This isn't my garden, this isn't my video
00:15 crew's garden. It's a friend of ours.
00:17 But still, it's a good idea to ask about where you might be shooting when you're
00:21 in somebody else's home. Think about what they've got in their yard.
00:25 Obviously, we're in front of this beautiful pond and there's, they've taken
00:28 care to plant some nice plants, have little trinkets set up.
00:32 If you're going to be shooting down low, you don't want to crush any flowers.
00:36 You don't want to hurt their property in any way.
00:38 So, if you're going to be laying down, maybe bring a blanket.
00:41 Think about putting something down to protect the area that you're working in,
00:45 and just be a good guest. You know, if you see a good shot off in
00:48 the distance but it's not in this area, it's just on the other side of the fence,
00:51 maybe just give a quick ask. You know, find the person who owns that
00:56 property or owns that house, and ask if it's cool if you take a couple shots.
01:00 The worst that can happen is they say no and you find a new location.
01:04 The other thing that you might want to think about when you're taking craft
01:07 photos, it's not an extreme sports, so don't put yourself in danger.
01:11 You don't need to be leaning way over rails, or jumping into something
01:14 dangerous to take a photograph of your craft.
01:17 You can always find another wonderful perfect setting.
01:20 There isn't just one rule about it. So, think about your environment, where
01:25 you're shooting. If you're at somebody else's house, if
01:28 you're in front of somebody else's property, just respect their space.
01:34 Be a good guest, and please be safe when you're shooting.
01:37 (LAUGH) That's it, take care. And happy crafting, and happy shooting.
01:41
Collapse this transcript
Keeping it simple
00:02 It may feel like there's a lot to remember when you're staging, shooting
00:04 and editing images of the crafts that you've made.
00:07 But try to keep the process simple and take photos of the crafts that you find
00:11 most interesting. Over time you'll develop a style that you like.
00:16 So stick with that. And the more you shoot your crafts, the
00:19 more you'll develop your own recognizable brand of craft photography the blog
00:23 readers and customers will come to recognize.
00:27 Right now, we're looking at my radmegan gallery on Craft Gawker, and Craft Gawker
00:31 is a website that you can upload photographs of the crafts that you've made.
00:37 And share them with the community of people who all have access to the website.
00:41 Who all are crafters. Who all appreciate handmade things.
00:45 So I'm just scrolling through now. And showing you a collection of some of
00:49 the crafts that I've uploaded. And they all lead back to specific posts
00:54 on my blogspot blog, my radmegan.blogspot blog.
00:59 But whether you specialize in one area of crafting, or, like me as seen here, enjoy
01:04 trying every craft under the sun, you can still begin to develop a style of
01:08 photography that you can apply to many different crafts and objects.
01:14 As long as you enjoy what you're shooting, and can keep a cool head when
01:18 you are trying to find your proper exposure or preferred composition, just
01:22 relax and take as many photos as you would like.
01:27 That's the beauty of digital photography. You can always delete the duds later.
01:31 And trust me, we all have occasional craft photo duds.
01:35 So I just want to thank you for watching these movies on shooting photographs of
01:39 your handmade crafts. And I hope that they've helped you learn
01:43 a new trick or two, and maybe even inspired you to try out some of the
01:46 techniques that I've gone over here. So, again, as you're shooting photographs
01:52 of your own handmade items and objects, and things that you've made with lots of
01:56 love, take into consideration all of the aspects of composition, of staging, of
02:01 exposure but don't over think it. Just feel free to experiment, feel free
02:07 to try a variety of different staging options, different techniques and go at
02:11 your own pace, you know, it's not a race, it's not a competition.
02:16 Just enjoy the photography process and really have fun with it.
02:22 And the more you have fun with it, the more it's going to be reflected in your
02:25 craft photos. So I wish you all so much luck and happy
02:30 shooting, happy crafting. And really, good luck to you all.
02:36 I wish I could see all of your own craft photos myself.
02:39 So thanks again for watching, and hope you enjoyed.
02:43
Collapse this transcript


Suggested courses to watch next:

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