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In this movie I'd like to show you some of the auto correction tools that are in light room and show you how they can be used. What the limitations are and show you how to evaluate whether they're providing you with the kind of adjustments you want. So we're going to use two images here to show you some of these automatic tools. The clouded landscape and the harding. Go ahead and select those and then lets do a CMD or CTRL and then apostrophe to make virtual copies of those. We've got single stars applied to, those single, so we go to attributes, and single star just to kind of clear up our interface here.
And let's go to develop module, and let's actually start with, the virtual copy of this cloudy landscape image. There are a couple of different automatic tools. First one, is in auto white balance tool, which is over here. Which you can use as an As Shot, Auto or Custom, and the Auto is the automatic tool. So that's one. The other one is this eyedropper tool that we have been using just for monitoring and measuring, you can actually use this as a neutralization tool. You can click on something you think is neutral and then just click, and it tends to neutralize that portion of the image.
And by the way remember you can double click on the white balance to neutralize any of this. So there's two different kind of of auto white balance tools, and then there's this auto tone adjustment here. Remember the order in which you would use those would typically color balance first and then your auto tone. Although they can be reversed for the automatic tools, but let's just see what it does. When you click on auto here, it'll evaluate the image and didn't do some sort of automatic adjustment to the image. And you can double click on tone to undo those. Alright, so let's take a look at these tools in this image and see what works and what doesn't.
First let's start with the automatic white balance and let's look at the histogram here. Notice it's a fairly neutral image all the way across. It's not a big color cast in this image. In the as shot version. Right? And if we take our info tool and we look over here. We can see the sky is oh, it's almost 52, 54, 56. A little bit to the blue side. This is a little bit more to the blue side in here. And of course this is all colored in here so it's not supposed to be neutral. But any of these could be neutral areas are pretty close to each other. A little bit of a blue cast.
And you can see that sticking out there. So if we take this and do an auto white balance. Notice what happens to this image. Cause you see the auto correction tools don't know that, that is supposed to be a gray sky. Or that this should be white snow or it's gray limestone. It doesn't know any of that. So it takes a look at the entire image. Low and behold when it tries to neutralize it. It puts a yellow cast on it. Now when we look at the RGB values in the gray sky it is 55, 54, 52. And down here it's 60, 59, 54. So we've actually added a color cast to this image by doing this.
So this would not be a good choice if we were trying to neutralize the image. How about this tool? Well, if we use the eyedropper tool and click here, indeed it's going to neutralize that portion of the sky. Notice 68, 68, 68. If we click down here, it gives us a different result. It gives us that color cast. So it depends upon where you click. So you need to be very judicious. Above where you want to click using this tool. And you get different results depending upon where you click. And it seems like with this particular image, the darker the area on which you're clicking the more of the red-green color balance that you're getting.
So here we want to click on the light portion of the sky in order to neutralize that sky. So these tools can be useful and they can work, but you really have to use them judiciously. In terms of the automatic exposure, the tone control, look at the histogram here. No data from highlight to mid tone, no data from three quarter to shadow, when I click on auto, basically what it does is it lightens the image. It moves all the data towards the highlight, cause it tends to favor the highlight data in the image. But notice it's light in the midtone hasn't done much for the shadow at all, so it really over brightens the image and from my valuation this would be an over exposed image, from the auto correction here.
So, really the auto correction is not much help here. If you did the auto correction you certainly want to come back with the blacks. It moves the blacks down to increase the contrast. Unless you wanted the over exposed look. So, the automatic tools can be useful and when you use them in conjunction with evaluating the histogram, you can see whether they're working or not and certainly with the info tool as well. You can see what's neutral and what's not. And just to take a quick look at this image. Very different distribution of tone. Let's go ahead and choose an Auto, in terms of this white balance.
In this image it works pretty well. Notice that the difference here in the histogram, we have the blue offset, to this image we've got a blue color cast. And we look at the RGB values, sure enough, you know, we've got a 74, and a 65, 62. Here the auto balance works pretty well. The auto white balance, because so much of the image is neutral. The more neutral most of the image is, the better this works. So, that works pretty well there. We look here, 88, 89, 88. It's within a percent. So, here, nice job on the auto balance.
Now, for the auto tone correction, when we click here. What this does again, it favors the highlight, notice that. More work on the highlight. And in this case, what it does, because there's so much highlight it actually blows out and loses some of the detail in some portions of this image. So in this case the auto white balance works but the auto tone correction not so much. So do I use these tools? Very sparingly. A little bit later on in the course I'll show you some places I do use them. When I have complete control over the lighting and the background and that kind of thing, particularly in product photography.
But for landscapes and natural light photography, I find them of limited usefulness and use them very sparingly.
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