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Adobe Photoshop Lightroom has become a popular program for photographers of all experience levels. In this course, photographer and teacher Jan Kabili provides an approachable introduction to all its capabilities. The course begins with a look at how to import photos from a camera and from a hard drive, describing how the Lightroom catalog works along the way.
Then you'll learn key ways to manage your photos in Lightroom, from reviewing photos after a shoot to working with Smart Previews when your photos are offline. This part of the course covers making collections, adding keywords, and much more.
Next, the course introduces the Lightroom Develop module and its features for improving a photo's appearance, including adjusting tone and color, cropping and fixing perspective, converting to black and white, reducing noise, and sharpening. It explores how to make local adjustments with the Adjustment Brush, Radial Filter, Graduated Filter, and Spot Removal tools. The course ends with a look at the most commonly used Lightroom features for sharing photos: exporting, printing, and sharing online.
When you have a photo to process in Lightroom, often the best place to start is in the Basic panel on the right side of the Develop module. I've opened my Basic panel and as you can see, it's got three different sections. In many cases, you can just start at the top of this panel and work your way down through the various sliders. The first section of the Basic panel is the white balance section. The controls in this section can help you to neutralize an unwanted color cast in an image. So what is a color cast? Well here you can see an extreme example. The temperature of the light in which you shoot a photo can add a color that effects the entire photo. And sometimes you want that color cast for example if you're shooting a sunset. But sometimes it just doesn't look right as in this photo which was shot at dusk. And I think that the controls on my camera were fooled by the different temperature of the light inside the building and outside. If you start raw you have lots of lead way to fix the white balance. You can even fix white balance on a JPEG.
Although you have less latitude when you're correcting color in a JPEG because its baked into the file. Now, there are several different ways that you can use the controls in the white balance section. I could just use the temperature intense sliders by dragging them. The Temperature slider goes from cool blue on the left toward warmer gold on the right. And the Tint slider is another color access from green toward magenta. So, let's see what happens if I drag the Temperature slider toward gold. When I do that the photo starts to look more natural. And if I think it needs a little magenta I can drag that slider too. So, that's not a bad result but there are a couple of other controls in the white balance section of the Basic panel that often come in handy. So, I'm going to go ahead and put these sliders back to their defaults by double clicking the WB for white balance header at the top of this section. And that will set the sliders just in the white balance section back to their defaults.
I'll start with this tool, the White Balance Selector, or I call it the Eye Dropper tool. This tool can help you to evaluate a color cast and also to fix it. When I click on this tool, I pick it up from its circle here. And I'll drag it over the photo. You can see that this large target comes along with it. And this target is telling me the RGB values, the red, green, and blue values of the pixels just underneath my eye dropper. Obviously pretty much anywhere I go in this image the B for blue is going to be higher than the R and G for red and green.
So, this confirms that there is quite a blue color cast anywhere in this photo. Now sometimes things aren't this obvious and that's when this tool helps to evaluate the presence of the color cast. If you want to dismiss that large target. You can come down to the toolbar at the bottom of the screen. You can actually change the scale of the chips in the target. Or, if you don't want the target at all, you can uncheck Show Loop. Another purpose of this Eyedropper tool, is to help correct color cast. So, what I'll do is look at the image, and find something I think should be neutral in color. Maybe these gray paving stones.
And then I'll click there. And that will set the pixels just under my Eyedropper to neutral. And all the other colors will fall into line around that one. So, that's not a bad result. If I want to try clicking somewhere else in the photo, then I need to go all the way back over to the Basic panel and pick up the Eyedropper tool again. And move into the image. And I could try clicking on something else that I think should be gray. Maybe here. Now if you don't like having to go back to the Basic panel every time you want to try another spot with the Eyedropper tool, you can get the Eyedropper tool.
And then go down to the toolbar and uncheck Auto Dismiss. And now the Eyedropper tool will stay out of its slot, and I can try clicking on several different places here until I get the result that I like. When I'm done with the tool, I'll place it back in it's spot in the Basic panel. There's another feature that I sometimes use when I'm trying to correct white balance. And that is this drop-down menu of white balance presets. As shot is the way the photo started right out of the camera. You can cycle through these until you find one that you like.
So, here's Lightroom's best guess as to what the white balance should be here. And there are some other presets that you can try out. And whatever you choose here, just changes the values of the Temperature Intense slider. I think I like Auto best here, and then I can always tweak these sliders, dragging them by hand. So, that's how to reduce an unwanted color cast in a photo using the controls in the white balance section of the Basic panel. And of course, that isn't all I would do to a photo like this, I would continue to go down through the controls in the Basic panel, as I'll show you how to do in this course.
And then, I would use some of the local adjustment tools, like the Adjustment Brush here. To enhance some local areas of this photo. For example, this overly saturated window here. All that's to come in the movies to follow.
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