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Digital photos shot at high ISO speeds often suffer from noise. And all digital photos have a slight softness due to the nature of imaging sensors. Like all imaging software, Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop have features for fixing these flaws. But using these features isn't always straightforward—and incorrect use of them can make a photo look artificial and overprocessed.
In this course, join Photoshop senior product manager Bryan O'Neil Hughes for an in-depth exploration of the noise-reduction and sharpening features in Lightroom and Photoshop. The course begins with tips for getting the cleanest possible images when you shoot. Next, Bryan details the process of making overall noise and sharpness improvements in Lightroom. The course concludes with a look at various advanced Photoshop techniques for localized adjustments and more.
Lightroom isn't just a place to do your global sharpening in any of your noise reduction, it's also a container for your images. So I want to show you how to get images out of Lightroom, but more importantly, how to get them back in. And to do that, let's talk about throwing files over to Photoshop. So let's say we want to throw this image right here over to Photoshop. It's really easy. We just hit Cmd+E. And it's going to launch Photoshop and open that file over there. Now, anything I do in Photoshop, let's just do something ridiculous here, make a mark on that.
As soon as I hit Cmd+W and save that, if I come back to Lightroom, that file will be sitting right there. Now, Photoshop and Lightroom speak slightly different languages. Lightroom is entirely non-destructive, metadata based. It's all instructions that tell the original what they look like. This has already been pushed into pixels when it goes into Photoshop. So you'll notice that that file sits next to the other one. It's a duplicate file with those changes. One other thing you should know about. Let's say we're working with our raw file. And we want one to be color and another to be black and white.
Well, you don't need to send it over to Photoshop to duplicate that file. You can just Ctrl+click, or right click that and say Create Virtual Copy. And it'll create a duplicate raw file right next to it. So we could do anything we want to that, and we have the best of both worlds. We have two files there. Now there are other things that you can do when sending files over to Photoshop. With multiple images selected, if you right click, you'll notice that your Edit In list will show Open as Smart Object, to keep things really flexible and non-destructive.
Merge to Panorama, which will automatically assemble a series of images in a panel. Merge to HDR Pro and get a full 32-bit file out of there. Or Open as Layers, it's a really handy one, multiple images as different layers in the same stack. Great for collages, compositing, and things like that. Now, the one other trick is when it comes time to get images out and put them somewhere else, and what you want to do is just select whichever files you might want. And then come up to Export dialogue, and as with anything in Lightroom, you've got a lot choices here.
Essentially what it boils down to is where you want to put it, is there a sub folder? What would you like to name it? Probably most importantly, what file format? If it's a raw file, I highly recommend you keep it as a DNG, high resolution really flexible. If it's a JPEG, that probably means that you're okay with compromising the quality and you probably want to resize it, and this is where you would do that. Now if you're just emailing it, keep in mind there're some great pre-sets over here. The other thing I'll tell you about the Export dialogue is don't create unnecessary work.
If you spent the time setting this all up in a particular way, add a preset over on the left hand side. In fact, adding a preset applies to everything we did in the develop module, everything you do anywhere in the print module, the web module. Once you've done it once, save your settings so that it's fast and easy the next time you come in there.
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