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Enhancing a Landscape Photo with Lightroom

Enhancing a Landscape Photo with Lightroom

with Jan Kabili

 


Learn how to enhance the natural beauty of a landscape photo with Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. In this short start-to-finish editing project, author Jan Kabili walks you through corrections for common issues you may have in your own landscape photos. She shows you how to create a mood with white balance, enhance contrast and detail with tonal adjustments, increase image intensity, make corrections to specific areas of the photo, and export the final processed photo.

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author
Jan Kabili
subject
Photography
software
Lightroom 4
level
Appropriate for all
duration
49m 47s
released
Apr 25, 2013

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Introduction
Welcome
00:00(music playing)
00:04Hi! I am Jan Kabili.
00:06Welcome to Enhancing a Landscape Photo with Lightroom.
00:09Throughout this course, we'll Lightroom's global and local correction tools to
00:12take this image from this unprocessed version to look more like this.
00:18We'll start this project in Lightroom's Develop Module, applying global
00:20adjustments to color, tone and capture sharpening.
00:23Then we'll dig deeper, applying targeted adjustments to individual colors and
00:28isolated areas of the photo.
00:31Finally, we'll export a non-Raw copy of the photo for use online or other specific purposes.
00:37Along the way I'll share tips and techniques for working in Lightroom to bring
00:41out the best in your own landscape photos.
00:43So let's get started with Enhancing a Landscape Photo in Lightroom.
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Using the exercise files
00:00I've included the project photo that we will work with throughout this course in the exercise files.
00:05You'll have access to the exercise files for the course if you are a Premium Member of the lynda.com library.
00:11I've downloaded the exercise files to my desktop and I'm going to open the
00:15exercise files folder so you can see what's in it.
00:18In this folder there are two subfolders.
00:20The photo that we will work with throughout this course is in the start subfolder,
00:23it's called gothic.dng. It's a raw file.
00:27I've included a second subfolder called finish, which contains a completed
00:31version of the project photo, complete with all the adjustments that you'll see
00:35me adding to the photo throughout the course.
00:37I have included this just for your reference, so you have a sense of where we're
00:42going as we work through this project.
00:44If you want to use the project photo to work along with me, you'll have to
00:48import the exercise files into your Lightroom catalog, so let me show you how to do that.
00:52Here you can see a Lightroom Library.
00:54This is a new Lightroom library, one that doesn't yet contain any photos.
00:58You can use a new Lightroom Library or your ongoing library to import the exercise files for the course.
01:04To import those files I'll go down to the big Import button at the bottom left
01:09of the Lightroom Library and I'll click there to open the Import dialog box.
01:12Here I'll go up to the Select a source menu and if you have saved your exercise
01:17files on your desktop as I have, choose Desktop here.
01:20In the Source panel, make sure that Include Subfolders is checked and navigate
01:25to the exercise files folder.
01:27Leave both of the images checked in the center portion of this dialog box,
01:31leave Add selected at the top of the dialog box, so that you'll be adding these
01:36photos to your Lightroom Library rather than moving them or copying them,
01:40and over on the right open the File Handling panel and change Render Previews to 1:1 and click Import.
01:49Back in your Lightroom Library in the Folders panel, you should now see the
01:53exercise files folder, and inside of that the finish subfolder and the start
01:57subfolder; and in the grid portion of your library you should see two
02:02thumbnails, the start image and the finished image.
02:05To work along with me select the start subfolder, select the single photo in
02:10that subfolder and bring it into the Develop Module by pressing D on your
02:15keyboard or clicking the Develop Module label at the top of Lightroom,
02:18and that will open the unprocessed version of the exercise file here in the Develop
02:23Module all ready for you to work along with me through this course.
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1. Starting with Global Adjustments
Analyzing the project photo
00:00Before we start processing this landscape photo, let's take a few minutes to
00:04analyze the photo considering what drew our attention to the scene at the time
00:08of capture and the mood and message that we would like the final processed
00:12image to communicate.
00:13Then we'll make a rough plan for how to coax that message out of the raw data.
00:18To get a better look at this photo, I'm going to press Shift+Tab on my keyboard
00:22to dismiss all of the bars and columns in Lightroom's Develop Module and then
00:26I'll press the L key on my keyboard twice to get this lights out view.
00:30Now this photo was shot in October in the high Rocky Mountains outside of Crested Butte, Colorado.
00:36Just the week before this hillside had been a riot of the Colorado brand of
00:41fall color, blanketed with the golden leaves of aspen trees, but peak viewing
00:45season ended early that year just before we arrived for this shoot, leaving
00:50just strokes of vivid gold in the aspen leaves on the hillside and in the
00:54vegetation along the shore.
00:55Now because the air in the high Rockies is so clear and dry you often see
01:00features in even distant parts of a landscape with greater clarity than you
01:04might expect in a mountain scene like this.
01:07So I remember that the detail in the aspen groves and even in the peak of Gothic
01:12Mountain about five miles away from our location was impressively sharp.
01:16The light from this cloudless sky was bright, but it wasn't so contrasty as to
01:21obscure detail in the landscape, and as this often the case at high elevations
01:26the sky was a deep rich blue.
01:27Of course, the mirror-like surface of the lake with its reflection of the
01:32mountain scene is what really caught our eye.
01:35Before the wind could come up to disturb the glassy surface of the water more
01:39photographer John Lorenz and I started shooting, trying out many different angles and vantage points.
01:45I chose this shot is one to spend time processing, because I particularly like
01:49its composition, but I think that the tones and colors as they appear in this
01:53unprocessed raw photo need some attention and there's plenty we can do with tone
01:58and color here in Lightroom to bring the overall effect closer to the
02:01crystalline look of the crisp mountain landscape that we tried to capture.
02:06Let's exit out of this lights out view by pressing L on the keyboard and then
02:11holding the Shift key and pressing Tab.
02:13And finally, I am going to dismiss the film strip at the bottom of the screen by
02:17clicking the bar at the far bottom of Lightroom's Develop Module.
02:21So just looking at this photo, the scene looks somewhat washed out from what I remember,
02:25but you know sometimes it's hard to see what's happening with tones in
02:29a photo on screen, so I always check a Histogram for confirmation.
02:33As you may know, the histogram in the column on the right side of the Develop
02:37Module is a chart of the tones in the photo, with the darkest tones on the left
02:42and the brightest tones over here on the right.
02:45The great mound in the histogram represents the range and frequency of tonal
02:49values in this photo as it stands.
02:51The empty area over here on the right side of this histogram confirms that there
02:55are no extreme bright tones in this photo and the empty area on the left side of
03:00the histogram tells us the same is true of very dark tones.
03:03Instead all the tones are clustered toward the center of the histogram,
03:08whichrepresents gray tones, and I think that accounts for the washed out or in more
03:13technical terms low contrast appearance of this photo.
03:16So how can we fix that?
03:18As we process the photo we'll try to move the black and the white points of the
03:23histogram farther to the extreme ends of the tonal range, which will expand the
03:27rest of the tones from this center cluster out across the entire tonal range,
03:32and that will increase contrast and hopefully give the photo more punch.
03:36I also note that the colors in the scene were much more brilliant and intense
03:40than we see them here, particularly in the yellows and oranges in the remaining
03:43aspen leaves and in the vegetation along the shore.
03:47So we'll try to bring out those qualities with some color adjustments in Lightroom.
03:50Now that we have a sense of where we want to take this photo and a rough
03:55blueprint of how to get there, let's put that into practice processing this
03:59photo here in Lightroom together.
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Creating a mood with White Balance
00:00The overall balance of color in a photo can have a big effect on the mood
00:04that the photo conveys.
00:05You may have White Balance controls in your camera, but those don't always give
00:09you the overall color balance that you expected.
00:11That's okay because you could control overall color balance with the white
00:15balance controls here in Lightroom in post-processing.
00:18You have the most latitude to do that if you shot a raw photo like this one
00:22rather than a JPEG, because with JPEGs the camera bakes in its own white balance
00:27settings, but with this photo we have all the latitude that we want to change
00:31the white balance to set the mood of the photo.
00:34To make the white balance adjustment I'm going to click on the Basic panel here
00:38in the Develop Module to open that panel.
00:40We'll be going through all of the settings in the Basic panel in this course.
00:44I usually approach these settings by starting at the top with the white balance.
00:48There are couple of different controls that you can use to set white balance.
00:52You can try the Eyedropper tool, but you get really variable results unless you
00:56have something really obvious that should be neutral in color in your photo.
01:00So I haven't had much luck with that tool practicing on this photo, instead I'm
01:04going to do something I often do, which is go to these presets for White Balance.
01:08These presets set the numerical values for both the Temperature slider and the Tint slider.
01:14The Temperature slider goes from blue on the left or cool to warm on the right, gold,
01:19and the Tint slider goes from green on the left to magenta on the right.
01:24So the settings that you see here now are the settings with which this photo was
01:28shot and the way it came out of the camera.
01:30If we go to the Presets and we try something else maybe Auto we get a different look to the photo.
01:36Now that's obviously too warm, you can see that the Temperature slider has moved
01:39over to the right. Let's try another one.
01:43Now I don't think Daylight looks too bad. It's a bit warm for my taste.
01:46So what I'd like to do at this point is just tweak this preset.
01:50I could come down and just drag either or both of these sliders or if I want to
01:55move these sliders in small increments, I'll click on the label of one of the sliders
01:58and then I'll use the Plus (+) and Minus (-) keys on my keyboard to move the slider in small values.
02:04So right now for example, I see that the temperature is a little blue for my
02:07taste, I like to warm it up just a bit, so I'll press the Plus (+) key on my keyboard,
02:12and I think that's just about where I want it.
02:15I would like to bring the tint down, so I'll click on the Tint Label and I'll
02:19use the Minus (-) key; and if I want to move a slider in even smaller
02:23increments I can click on its numerical value and then use the Up and Down
02:27arrow keys on my keyboard.
02:29So if I want to move the Tint slider over to the left toward green, I'll press
02:32the down arrow key on my keyboard several times until I like the way the live
02:36preview looks and then I'll press Return or Enter on my keyboard.
02:39Now keep in mind as you set white balance that there is no one right answer,
02:44there is no correct white balance.
02:46The overall balance of color in the image is something that's very subjective.
02:50You can tweak it as you see fit to set the appropriate mood for a photograph.
02:54Also keep in mind that the particular numerical values that I chose for white balance
02:58and that I'll choose for all of the adjustments in this course aren't
03:02necessarily the ones that will look best on your monitor if you're working
03:05along with me on this photo, because your monitor is probably set a bit different than mine.
03:09So go ahead and follow the direction of my moves, but choose the values that
03:13look best to you on your monitor.
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Adding contrast and detail with tonal adjustments
00:00Continuing to process our image in the Basic panel, we're going to go to the
00:04Tone section where we will be able to control the brightness and contrast in this photo.
00:08I'll start at the top of this section with the Exposure slider.
00:12The Exposure slider increases or decreases the overall brightness of the photo
00:17by shifting primarily the Mid-tones.
00:19If I hover over the Exposure slider and you look up the histogram you'll see a
00:23slight overlay over the mid-tones, and that means that that's the part of the
00:27total range that this slider are primarily affects.
00:30So I think that this photo looks a tad dark.
00:34I'd like to brighten it up a bit.
00:36I'm going to move the Exposure slider over to the right.
00:39By the way, the numerical values on the Exposure slider correspond to f-stops on your camera.
00:45So 0.3 for example is the equivalent of about a third of f-stop in brightness.
00:49Next, I'll go to the Contrast slider.
00:52What this image needs most is more contrast.
00:56I'm going to drag the Contrast slider slightly to the right and doing that has
01:00not only brightened the highlights, it's also darkened the shadows a bit.
01:04That increases contrast and adds a bit more punch to the image.
01:08If you're familiar with the fundamentals of curves in Photoshop increasing the
01:12Contrast slider like this is similar to adding an S-curve.
01:15Now that we have our basic exposure and contrast adjustments let's go down to
01:20this group of four sliders to fine-tune the contrast.
01:24Each of these sliders affects a different range of highlights and shadows in the image.
01:27We will start with the Highlight slider.
01:30If I move my cursor over this slider and you take a look up at the histogram you
01:34can see that the Highlight slider controls the brightness of the three-quarter tone highlight areas.
01:39Now in this case I don't think there's much to do to highlights.
01:42Maybe I'll bring my highlights down just a bit to darken up these bright parts of the sky.
01:47So I'll drag the Highlight slider slightly over to the left.
01:49The Shadows slider is the equivalent on the other side of the histogram.
01:54It controls the three-quarter tone dark areas.
01:57Bringing the Shadows slider up slightly can bring out detail in dark areas of the photo.
02:02For example, in these trees over here.
02:04Let's see if it'll help us with this image.
02:07So I'll drag the Shadows slider slightly over to the right.
02:10The next slider, the White slider, controls the very brightest tones in the image,
02:14the far right side of the histogram.
02:17In this case we really don't have any bright tones over there on the far right.
02:20So I want to drag the White slider over toward the right.
02:24As I drag the White slider I am keeping my eye on the histogram.
02:27If I see a spike over here on the right side of the histogram, I know that I've
02:31gone too far with this slider.
02:33Pushing whites in the image to pure white without detail.
02:36And if I turn on a Highlight clipping warning, which is this little box up here,
02:40you can see marked in red in the image exactly which pixels I am pushing to pure white.
02:46That's farther than I wanted to go with the slider.
02:48I am going to back off going in the other direction and I'll put it just about there
02:53and I'll turned off the Highlight clipping warning.
02:56The next slider, the Black slider, controls the darkest parts of the photo.
03:01Adding a little more black can often make the photo look more rich.
03:04Particularly, if you've lightened the shadows, the three-quarter tone dark areas as we did earlier.
03:09I am going to take the Black slider and I'm going to drag it toward the left to add more black.
03:15That brings us to the end of the Tone section of the basic panel.
03:19Let's compare how this image looked when we started as compared to where it is now.
03:23I do this often as I am in processing a photo here in Lightroom and that is to
03:27press the backslash (\) key on the keyboard.
03:30The backslash (\) key is located in the same row as the P keys, three keys to the right of the P key.
03:35So I'll press the backslash (\) key to see the before view of the image without
03:40any of the changes that we added to white balance or to tone and here's how the
03:44image looks now with just those changes.
03:47If you feel that there isn't enough of a change to suit your taste, feel free to
03:51go back and tweak some of these sliders.
03:53Maybe you want to add more blacks for a deeper richer look or maybe you want
03:57to add more contrast.
03:59I'm going for a natural look to this image that reflects what I remember of the scene,
04:02but it's perfectly valid to process this image to whatever appearance you like.
04:07Keep in mind that we're not done with our global adjustments yet.
04:11In the next movie we will go down to the Present section of the Basic panel to
04:15add mid-tone contrasts with the Clarity slider and some color saturation to further enhance this photo.
Collapse this transcript
Increasing image intensity
00:00Our photos still needs more intensity both in terms of tone and color.
00:04For that I'm going to go to the bottom of the Basic panel to the Present section.
00:09We'll start with the Clarity slider,which controls the contrast in the mid-tones of an image.
00:13Increasing Clarity can add more contrast and a kind of sharpening effect to the midtones.
00:18It's great for bringing out midtone detail, which we have a lot of in the vegetation in this photo.
00:24So I'm going to take the Clarity slider and drag it over to the right.
00:27It's hard to see exactly what that slider has done to this image when we
00:31are zoomed so far out. So let's zoom in.
00:34First, I am going to collapse this column on the left by clicking in the bar on
00:38the far left so we have more room to see the photo and then I'll click in the
00:43middle of the photo to zoom into one-to-one view.
00:46Here you can see the section of the photo with that increase in Clarity.
00:49I am going to use the shortcut for undo, which is Cmd+Z on the Mac or Ctrl+Z on the PC
00:54to undo just the Clarity adjustment leaving all of our other adjustments in place.
01:00I'll press Cmd+Z or Ctrl+Z and you can see how the image looked without the
01:04Clarity adjustment and then if I hold the Shift key and again press Cmd+Z
01:09or Ctrl+Z to redo the Clarity adjustment that's how it looks with increased clarity.
01:15That one slider has had a significant change.
01:19Now let's zoom back out clicking in the image to go back to the fit-on-screen view
01:22and let's come down to the Vibrance and Saturation sliders.
01:26Either of these sliders will increase the Color Saturation or the intensity of
01:31Color overall in this photo, but they act a little differently.
01:35If I try the Saturation slider we can see that it tends to oversaturated some of the colors in the image.
01:41That's because it treats all the colors the same way, saturating them all to the same extent.
01:47I would like to put Saturation back to 0 and try the Vibrance slide instead.
01:51Here's a great trick for sending any of the sliders back to its default value of 0
01:56and that is to double-click on the slider control, like this.
02:01So instead of the Saturation slider, I'll try increasing the Vibrance slider,
02:05I'll drag that slider over to the right, and I think that does a better job
02:10of intensifying the colors in the image without overdoing it.
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Capture sharpening
00:00This photo, like almost every digital photo, can probably benefit from sharpening.
00:04You can sharpen a photo more than once in your digital workflow.
00:08In this movie we will talk about initial sharpening or what's called capture sharpening.
00:13The purpose of this initial sharpening is to offset the softening that's just
00:17inherent part of the digital capture and raw conversion process.
00:21Then later when we export the photo from Lightroom we will use controls in the
00:25Export dialog box to add some additional final sharpening designed for a
00:29particular output destination and in between we'll do some creative sharpening
00:34to particular areas with the Adjustment brush.
00:37So let's do our initial or capture sharpening here.
00:40The first thing to know about sharpening is that you can't evaluate it
00:44unless you're zoomed in to one-to-one or 100% view.
00:48To do that I'm going to just click in this image and if you look closely you can
00:52see that some of the detail here is a little bit soft looking.
00:57Let's see if we can improve that using the controls in the Detail panel here in Lightroom's Develop Module.
01:03Over in a column on the right I'm going to scroll down and I'll click on the Detail panel.
01:08The top section of the Detail panel has controls for Sharpening.
01:11As you can see there are four different controls.
01:14The Amount slider controls the strength of the sharpening effect.
01:18Now the way that Sharpening works is that Lightroom looks for edges or areas
01:22where this contrast between light and dark.
01:26Then it increases that contrast, making the light side of an edge lighter and the
01:30dark side of the edge darker.
01:31So if I increase the Amount slider that increases the strength of that kind of sharpening effect.
01:38I have dragged the Amount slider to the right until it looks just about right to my eye.
01:43Next, I'll come down to the Radius slider.
01:45The Radius determines the distance from an edge that's included in the sharpening treatment.
01:50Now this landscape has a lot of detail so we don't want these edges to be too wide.
01:56For that reason I want to keep the Radius relatively low.
01:58I am going to leave it at its default of 1.
02:01The next slider is the Detail slider I am going to leave this slider at its default of 25.
02:06I try to avoid increasing the Detail slider too much so as to avoid ending up sharpening noise in the image.
02:14Finally, there is a Masking slider.
02:16I would like to use the Masking slider in this photo to protect the smooth areas
02:20of the photo from sharpening.
02:21To show you what I mean I'm going to pan up to the sky in the image.
02:27If you look very closely, you can see that there's some grain in the sky.
02:31I don't want to emphasize that grain by sharpening it.
02:33So I want to protect this area from our Sharpening Settings.
02:37To do that I'll drag the Masking slider over to the right.
02:41Now one thing that I like to do when I drag the Masking slider is to hold down
02:44the Opt key on the Mac or the Alt on the PC and then drag the slider.
02:49As I do I can see a representation of the edge mask that I'm creating.
02:54Where that mask is black that area will be protected from sharpening.
02:59The white in this mask represents the edges that will be sharpened.
03:04Now let's pan down to a darker part of the photo, because I want you to see
03:08that there still is a little bit of grain or noise here in the dark areas of the photo.
03:14I can address those using the Noise Reduction sliders.
03:17There are two kinds of digital noise, Color Noise and Luminance Noise.
03:22The default settings for the Color Noise Reduction sliders usually do a pretty
03:26good job of eliminating Color Noise and I really don't see any color noise here,
03:30but I do see this grayscale or grainy type of noise known as Luminance Noise.
03:36So I am going to take the Luminance slider and I am just going to drag it slightly over to the right.
03:42Now in this image there isn't a lot of Luminance Noise, because this particular
03:45photo was shot with a low ISO and it doesn't have a lot of dark areas.
03:50I'm satisfied with just those few changes to the Sharpening and Noise Reduction
03:54settings in the Detail panel.
03:56So that you can see a before and after a view I'm going to click this toggle at
04:01the top of the Detail panel.
04:03Here's how the photo looked before the adjustments that we just made to
04:06Sharpening and Noise Reduction and you can see that it's really soft up here
04:11and here is how the photo looks with those adjustments.
04:14I'll pan over to another area of the photo that has detail and again I'll click
04:19the toggle for a before view and an after view.
04:24As you can see Sharpening has an important impact on this photo as it does on most digital photos.
04:29Now keep in mind that this isn't our final sharpening of this image.
04:33This is just the capture sharpening that compensates for the softness that's
04:37inevitable when you digitize a photo.
04:39We'll do some creative sharpening as well as some final output sharpening later in this course.
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2. Fine-Tuning with Local Adjustments
Correcting colors in the HSL panel
00:00In the last chapter we focused on making global adjustments to this photo,
00:04adjustments that affect the entire photo.
00:06In this chapter we'll zero in on some targeted adjustments starting with
00:11adjusting particular colors in this photo, using these sliders in the HSL panel.
00:16I'll open the HSL panel by clicking on its title bar.
00:20Here you can see that there are three tabs. You can use the sliders in these tabs
00:23to adjust any or all of the three major properties of color in Lightroom:
00:29Saturation, which refers to the intensity of Color; Hue, which means the actual color;
00:33and Luminance, which means the brightness of color.
00:37One of the colors that jumps out at me in this photo is the blue in the sky and
00:41down here in the reflection of the sky.
00:44I'd like to lower the intensity of blue everywhere that it occurs in this image.
00:49So I'm going to go over to the HSL panel and I'll click on the Saturation tab.
00:53Now I could just come down and try dragging the blue slider over to the left
00:58to reduce the intensity of the blues in the photo.
01:00But it's possible that the sky and the lake represent not only the colors in the
01:05blue range but maybe the colors in a neighboring range like aqua or green.
01:10So instead of just taking a chance on one of the sliders, I'm going to use this tool,
01:15the Targeted Adjustment tool for the Saturation panel.
01:18I'll click on the small icon to activate the Targeted Adjustment tool, and then
01:23I'll click in a blue area of the photo maybe up here in the sky. To reduce the
01:27saturation of the blues I will click and drag down.
01:31Keep your eye on the sliders in the saturation panel as I do this and you can
01:34see that not only the blue slider moved to the left but also the aqua slider.
01:39Now that I'm done with this tool, I'll go back over to the HSL panel and I'll
01:43click back on its icon to put the tool back in place.
01:47Some other colors that I'd like to intensify in this photo are the yellows that
01:52you see up here in the Aspen grove and down here around the edge of the lake and
01:56the reds that are scattered throughout the vegetation in the foreground.
02:01Again I'll go to the Saturation tab of the HSL panel and I'm going to drag the
02:05Yellow slider over to the right to increase the saturation of yellows everywhere
02:10that they occur in the image.
02:11I'll do the same with the Red slider too.
02:13Now there's another color that's really bothering me in this image, and that is
02:18the color of the trees, they look almost yellow rather than a deep rich green.
02:24To try to change the color of the trees I'm going to go to another tab in the HSL panel the Hue tab.
02:30I'll click there and here I see the different ranges of colors that can affect with the Hue sliders.
02:35Now one would think that the trees are primarily green, so I'll take the Green slider
02:39and I am going to move it over to the right to change the greens in the image to more blue-green.
02:46And that did have some effect on the trees, but I'd like to do more to them.
02:50Now even though you'd think these trees are just green, I bet that they have some yellow in them too.
02:56If I take that Yellow slider and drag it all the way over to the right or all
03:00the way over to the left, you can see that I am right; there is yellow in the
03:03trees and throughout the vegetation.
03:05So to push those yellows more toward green, I'm going to the drag the Yellow slider
03:10from its default of zero over to the right slightly too.
03:14So that's how we can use the sliders in the HSL panel to change particular colors
03:18wherever they occur in a photo like this.
03:22Next we're going to move on to an even finer level of fine-tuning, moving in to
03:26adjust just the water here, to give it more reflective qualities and to do that
03:31we're going to use one of the local adjustment tools in Lightroom's Develop module,
03:34the Graduated Filter tool.
Collapse this transcript
Adjusting part of the photo with the Graduated Filter tool
00:00The reflection of the mountain in the lake is the feature of this scene that
00:04attracted us most when we were shooting.
00:06I would like to bring out the reflective qualities of the lake without affecting the rest of the image.
00:11There are two local adjustment tools in Lightroom that I might be able to use to do that.
00:15One is the Adjustment Brush tool, which you can use to paint adjustments into any area of a photo.
00:21We'll save the adjustment brush for the next.
00:23In this movie, I'm going to use the second of the local adjustment tools, the Graduated Filter tool.
00:29With this tool we'll be able to apply a combination of adjustments gradually
00:33over a linear area, the area of just the lake in this photo.
00:37We'll start by clicking the Graduated Filter icon here in the toolbar in the
00:41column on the right side of the develop module.
00:44That opens the Graduated Filter panel.
00:46With all of these adjustments that we can include in combination in the
00:50Graduated Filter we are going to apply on top of the lake in the photo.
00:54Notice that some of these sliders are already dragged over to the right
00:58or over to the left that's because the slider is in the Graduated Filter panel are sticky.
01:03So I must have used these in the past and they're still showing the settings that I choose before.
01:09What I do when I come into this panel to create a new graduated filter
01:13is send everything back to its defaults by double-clicking the Effect label at the top left of the panel.
01:19Now let's create a dummy adjustment, something that's going to be real easy to see
01:23as we make our Graduated Filter and then later we'll come in and change the
01:27adjustments to the ones that we really want to include in this filter.
01:31I often take the Exposure slider and drag that way over to the left because
01:35that's easy to see; and with that change, move into the image and I'll create the Graduated Filter.
01:42I'm going to click at the bottom of the image, I'm going to hold the Shift key to
01:46keep the filter straight, and then I'm going to drag up and I'll drag up to just
01:51about the center of the image underneath the shoreline here.
01:53You can see that the image is being darkened at the bottom and that, and that effect
01:57gradually rolls off, from the center line the line that contains this pin that
02:03represents this Graduated Filter up to this faint line at the top.
02:07If you look over on the right side of the photo you can see those two lines better on the canvas.
02:12You can change both the position and the shape of a graduated filter like this.
02:16So in this case, I would like to have more of an effect further up in the image
02:21and I'd like the roll off or the fade out to be less gradual.
02:25So I'm going to click on that top line and drag down to make my graduated filter
02:31pretty narrow and then, I'm going to click on that center point, the pin that
02:35represents this graduated filter, and I'll drag up.
02:38I'll take it up just about to the beginning of the shoreline near.
02:43I can also rotate my graduated filter by moving my cursor close to the pin
02:47and when it changes to a curved double pointed arrow like this I'll click and drag.
02:51Now that's pretty sensitive, so you just want to make a small move when you are
02:56rotating a gradual filter.
02:57Now that I have my gradual filter in place the way I want it,
03:01I'm going to go over to the adjustments in the column on the right and I'm
03:04going to zero out the exposure adjustment by double-clicking the control on the Exposure slider.
03:10What I really want to do with this Graduated Filter is increase contrast.
03:14So I'll drag that Contrast slider over to the right and maybe I want to
03:19increase the midtown contrast as well, so I'll go to the Clarity slider and I'll
03:23drag that to the right, too, and I want to try to open up some of the dark shadow
03:28areas here so I'll drag the Shadow slider over to the right too.
03:32Now you probably are recognizing that many of these fighters are the same as the
03:37sliders that we saw in the Basic panel affecting the image globally.
03:41Here the sliders are affecting just the portion of the image underneath the Graduated Filter.
03:46Here in the Graduated Filter panel we're missing a couple of the sliders that we
03:50have in the Basic panel, in particular the whites and blacks slider.
03:53But instead we have some additional sliders, for adjusting Sharpness, Noise,
03:57Moire and defringing as well as Color here in the Graduated Filter panel.
04:03So with those adjustments I'm going to do a before and after by clicking the
04:08toggle icon at the bottom of this panel.
04:11So that's how the image looked without these adjustments and here's how it looks with.
04:16If it's difficult to see with that pin in the way, I'll come down where it
04:19says, Show Edit Pins and I'll change that either to the default which is Auto
04:24or to Never, just to turn the pin off for a moment, and now let's do a before and after.
04:29That's how the image looked without these adjustments to the lake and here's how
04:33it looks with the adjustments to the lake.
04:35I'm pleased with that result, so I'm actually going to put Show Edit Pins back
04:39to its default of Auto and now that pin will come into view whenever I move my
04:44cursor over the image as long as the Graduated Filter panel is open.
04:50So that means that even if I close the Graduated Filter panel, I can always come
04:54back in and tweak the settings or the position of that Graduated Filter.
04:59To do that I would click again, on the Graduated Filter icon, move my cursor into
05:04the image, the pin that represents the Graduated Filter comes into view,
05:08I'l click on that pin to select it and now I can tweak any of my settings over here.
05:13I'll close the Graduated Filter panel again, and you can add more than one
05:17graduated filter to the same image.
05:19So if you want, you can experiment with adding another graduated filter up
05:23here in the sky area and creating a different combination of adjustments for that filter.
05:28Now the Graduated Filter tool isn't the only local adjustment tool in Lightroom.
05:33In the next movie, we'll look at using another local correction tool,
05:37the Adjustment Brush tool, which allows us to paint in adjustments and we'll use that
05:41brush to spice up even smaller individual parts of this photo.
Collapse this transcript
Adding targeted corrections with the Adjustment Brush tool
00:00This photo gives us lots of opportunity to get creative with the Adjustment Brush tool,
00:04which allows you to paint single or combinations of adjustments into
00:09isolated areas of the photo like this.
00:11I would like to use this tool to make certain areas of this photo more contrasty,
00:15certain areas more colorful and certain areas sharper.
00:18So let's select the Adjustment Brush tool, which is here under the Histogram
00:22and I've collapsed my Histogram panel, so there's more room for the Adjustment
00:26Brush panel, which we'll see when we click the Adjustment Brush icon.
00:30The Adjustment Brush panel offers the same sliders that we saw with the Graduated Filter tool.
00:35I'll start by sending all of these adjustments back to their default to zero
00:40by double-clicking the effect label here at the top of the Adjustment panel.
00:43The first adjustment brush that I want to add to this image is one that I'll
00:47use to increase the contrast here in the Gothic Mountain peak without affecting the rest of the photo.
00:53Before I create that adjustment brush I'll check by Brush settings here,
00:57which control the size of the brush, the feather or the soft edge of the brush,
01:01the flow and the density of the brush and I like to keep the Flow and Density
01:05at 100 unless I want just a slight effect.
01:08I'll show you how that works in a moment, but for now I'll leave Flow and
01:12Density at a 100 and I'm going to check Auto Mask; that will help me to build a
01:16mask that defines the area in which this adjustment is going to be affecting the image.
01:22So what I'd like to do with this brush is to increase the contrast in the mountain.
01:27So I'm going to take the Contrast slider and I'll drag it way up and then
01:31I'm going to zoom in and when you're in the Adjustment Brush panel you need to hold
01:35down the spacebar and then click in the image in order to zoom in.
01:39The same is true when you're panning, so I'll hold the spacebar and then
01:43I'llclick and drag in the image to bring the mountain into view.
01:47Now I'm going to start painting over the mountain. If you look closely you'll see that as I do,
01:52I'm increasing the contrast wherever I paint.
02:01Down at the bottom of the Adjustment Brush panel there's a toggle that I can use
02:05to compare this after view with the adjustment; if I click their there's the
02:10before view without the adjustment and the after view again.
02:14And noticed that this adjustment affects just the areas where I've painted.
02:18Now if you want to see how this works under the hood, I'll come down here and
02:22I'll check Shows Selected Mask Overlay.
02:25And when I do you can see a red mark everywhere that I painted, this is a mask
02:29that I created and I can see actually there are some areas where I didn't fill
02:33in the mask entirely, so I'll fix that by just painting over those areas.
02:37And because I checked Auto Mask, it's pretty easy to stay inside of the outline
02:42of the mountain as I create this mask without a lot of overspill.
02:46I'll hold down the spacebar to pan over here and I'll add this area to the mask
02:52area that's being affected by this adjustment.
02:55Now if you go too far for example if I paint here and then I change my mind and
02:59don't want that area affected, I'll hold down the Option key that's the Alt key
03:03on the PC and paint over that area to remove the mask and also to remove the
03:08underlying adjustment from that area. Then I come going to come down and
03:14uncheck Show Selected Mask Overlay.
03:16So that's one adjustment brush, let's add another.
03:19I am going to hold the spacebar and click in the image to zoom back out.
03:23What I like to do with my next adjustment brush is to saturate some of the colors
03:28down in his foliage and in the foliage up here. I'll go back to the
03:33Adjustment Brush panel and I'll click the New label at the top of the panel.
03:37I'll double-click the Effect label to send everything back to its defaults.
03:41This time I want to increase Saturation, so I'm going to drag the Saturation slider over to the right.
03:47Down in the Brush section I'm going to uncheck Auto Mask, because I really don't
03:51need a hard edge on my mask. I just want the edges of my painting to blend in with the rest of the image.
03:57I'll move into the image and make my brush a little smaller by pressing the left bracket key
04:01on the keyboard a couple of times and then I'll click and drag over some of these trees
04:06that I'd like to see more saturated maybe here and here and down here along the lake,
04:13and maybe I'll do that over some of these purplish bushes as well.
04:18You can really get creative with where you're painting in your adjustments.
04:22So if you're following along, do that wherever you think it's appropriate.
04:25Now if we want to see it before and after view, I'll come down and I'll click
04:30the toggle so there's the after view and there's a before view.
04:33When I click this toggle, both of my adjustment brushes I turned off and then on.
04:39Notice that when I move my cursor into the image you can see two pins.
04:43Each of the pins represents one of the two adjustment brushes and if I want to add to
04:47the areas being covered by a brush or if I want to tweak the adjustments applied
04:52by that brush, all I need to do is select the appropriate pin, like this.
04:57And then I can make a change to contrast, for example.
04:59I am going to go back and select the pin that's increasing saturation and you
05:05can see when I hover over that pin that the red mask for this particular
05:08adjustment brush comes into view.
05:10What I would like to do is add to this brush these areas over here, but I don't
05:15want them to be as saturated as the other areas.
05:17So I'll come down to the Brush settings for this adjustment brush and I'm going
05:22to reduce the flow of the brush.
05:25Then I'll move into the image, maybe I'll make my brush tip a little smaller with
05:29the left bracket key and I'm just going to click and drag over some of these
05:33orange areas in the aspen grove here.
05:37And down in the water as well, because here I want to add saturation,
05:41but I don't want it to be really obvious, just a little bit subtle.
05:47I'll turn on the mask by clicking Show Selected Mask Overlay and you can see
05:51that where I am painting now the red mask is less dense than it was in the areas
05:56where I had Flow set to 100.
05:58And if I paint over these areas several times, the mask gets more dense and the effect more pronounced.
06:06Let's turn the mask off by unchecking Show Selected Mask Overlay and there is the result.
06:12Now of course we could spend more time adding more saturation into isolated
06:16areas of the image, but for now let's add one more adjustment brush,
06:20which is the way that I do creative sharpening.
06:23I'll come up to the New label at the top of the Adjustment Brush panel, I'll select that.
06:27I'll double-click Effect to send the sliders back to 0 and this time I'm going to increase Sharpness.
06:33And with this sharpness brush, I'm going to click and drag over some of this
06:37vegetation at the edge of the pond, using sharpness to direct the viewers attention to this area.
06:44And maybe I'll do that over these trees as well making them a little sharper.
06:49And there's a kind of a little beaver dam down here and I'll do it there as well.
06:53Now you can't really see sharpness unless you zoom into a 100%, so I'll hold
06:57down at my spacebar and I'll click on the image and here you can see a couple of
07:01the areas to which I've added that sharpness adjustment layer.
07:05I'll show the selected mask overlay and you can see where I've painted with this adjustment brush.
07:11I'll uncheck that hold the spacebar and click to zoom back out.
07:15So that creative sharpening with the adjustment brush is on top of the initial
07:19capture sharpening that we did in an earlier movie in the course.
07:23I'm all done adding adjustment brushes to this image, so I'm going to close the
07:27Adjustment Brush panel by clicking the Close button at the bottom of the panel.
07:31And if I ever want to come in and tweak any of those brushes I can do that by
07:34once again clicking the Adjustment Brush icon in the toolbar here.
07:38For example, I'll click on the Adjustment Brush icon now to open the Adjustment panel again,
07:44so that I can try to tone down some of the saturation
07:48that I added using this adjustment brush, the one represented by this pin.
07:52I'll click on the pin, you can see that mask overlay, and then I'll come over to
07:57the Mask panel and I'll take that Saturation slider down to about there.
08:02And then I'll close the Adjustment Brush panel again.
08:05So the Adjustment Brush tool has let us get really creative about where and how
08:10we've adjusted individual parts of this photo.
Collapse this transcript
Cleaning up content with the Spot Removal tool
00:00To finish up our processing of this photo I'm noticing that there are a few
00:04little items in the water down here that we may want to remove from the photo.
00:08I'm going to click to zoom into a 100% and here I can see a couple of reeds sticking up through the water.
00:14Now normally if I want to remove something like this from a photo,
00:17I'll take the photo from Lightroom into Photoshop to use the more sophisticated retouching tools there.
00:22But when you have just small items like these to removed and the surrounding
00:26area is rather simple like the plain water, you can give the Spot Removal tool a try here in Lightroom.
00:33Let's do that by going over to the toolbar in the column on the right and
00:36clicking on the Spot Removal tool.
00:38That opens the Spot Removal tool panel and I'm going to leave all of these
00:42options at their defaults that you see here, then I'll move into the image.
00:46I am going to put my brush tip on top of this faint little spot. I want the
00:50brush tip to be just big enough to cover that spot, so if your brush tip is too
00:55large then press the left bracket key
00:57on your keyboard a couple times. If it's too small press the right bracket key.
00:58The bracket keys are located to the right of the P key on your keyboard.
01:03And then I'm going to click on that little spot.
01:05I'll move off of the image to dismiss those two circles and you can see that
01:09that's done a pretty good job of covering up that little spot.
01:12Now let's try something larger, this area here, this large reed and its shadow,
01:17I'll move on move on top of the reed and I'll press the right bracket key
01:21to make my brush tip bigger until it just covers the reed and its shadow and then I'll click.
01:26Now I have two circles; the circle on the right is where Lightroom is patching over the reed
01:31and the circle on the left is the source of the pixels that are being used to make that patch.
01:36So because inside the source circle there are these two other little reeds,
01:41those are being copied over into our patch.
01:43Well, obviously we don't want that, so we need to move the source circle.
01:47I'll hover over the source circle and click and drag
01:51and that fixes the patch. Because the source circle is now in the clean area of water,
01:54we're getting a nice clean patch over that original reed.
01:57I'll move off the image, so you can see the result without the circles.
02:01The reason that the circle appears when I move over the image is because tool
02:04Overlay is set Auto, so you can change this to Never if you don't want to see
02:09those circles temporarily or you can change it to Always if you want the circles
02:12to always be showing as long as you have the Spot Removal panel open over here
02:16in the column on the right.
02:17But I'll set that back to Auto for now.
02:21If you're following along you may want to pan around in the water and find
02:25more of these circles and try to eliminate them the same way as I'm doing now.
02:31When you're done, hold the spacebar and click in the image to zoom back out.
02:36Then go up to the Spot Removal tool and click there to close its panel.
02:40Like all the adjustments that we've made, you can always go back in and edit the
02:44spot removal adjustments by reopening the Spot Removal panel by again clicking
02:48on the Spot Removal tool.
02:49So now we're finished with all of the global and local adjustments that we had
02:53planned to add to this landscape photo to enhance it here in Lightroom.
02:57Let's do a quick before and after.
02:59If I press the Backslash key (\) on my keyboard, the Backslash key (\) is three keys
03:03away from the P key, you can see how the image look when we started
03:07and if I click again, where we taken the image with the global and local adjustments
03:11that we added here in Lightroom. But we're not done yet. We still need to export
03:15a copy of this file as I'll show you how to do in the next movie.
Collapse this transcript
3. Finishing the Project
Exporting the processed photo
00:00Throughout this course we've been working with a raw file, a DNG format file.
00:04And we've been adding global and local adjustments to that raw file.
00:08Now that we're done, you may be wondering, well, how do I get a copy of that raw file
00:12in a format that I can use, maybe you want to send a copy out for printing
00:17and you need a TIFF format file or maybe you want to put a copy online,
00:21and so you needed JPEG format file, and maybe you need those files
00:24to be a certain size or have a certain name.
00:27For any or all of those purposes, you'll need a copy of the suggested master raw
00:31file to be exported from Lightroom, and here's how you can do that.
00:35Here in need Develop module, I'll go up to the File menu and I'll choose Export.
00:40That opens the large Export dialog box, and here I will just work my way down
00:45through the options starting with the Export To option.
00:47I'd like to export a copy of this file to my hard drive, so I will choose Hard Drive here.
00:53Here, I'll choose a more specific destination, setting export to
00:57Specific Folder clicking Choose, and maybe I'll choose to export to my Desktop.
01:03I can have Lightroom create a subfolder on my desktop to contain this file,
01:07maybe I'll call this processed.
01:10And I can have Lightroom automatically add the exported copy of the file to my catalog.
01:16This menu is asking what to do if there already is a file with the same name in
01:20the same location, that's probably not going to be a problem.
01:23Here I can choose to Rename the file; if I check Rename, and then look at this
01:28menu there're all kinds of renaming algorithms that I can choose from
01:32or I could go to Edit and create my own algorithm. If I leave this unchecked then
01:36Lightroom will take the prefix of the name from the raw file and just add the
01:41appropriate suffix for this copy of the file.
01:44I'll scroll down and in the File Settings area I'll go to the Image Format menu
01:49and I'll choose the format that I need from among these choices:
01:52JPEG; PSD, which is the Photoshop format; TIFF, which is a format that you may
01:57need if you're sending a photo out for commercial printing; or the DNG format;
02:02or the Original format. I'll go with the JPEG format, and over here I can set the Quality.
02:07Maybe I'll put it at about 70, the higher the quality of the larger the file will be.
02:14Here I'll choose the Color Space. Because I'm creating a copy of this file
02:19for use online, I'll the Color Space set to sRGB. If I would going to be printing this file,
02:24I would change it to a wider color space probably ProPhoto RGB,
02:28which is the widest possible Color Space, but I'll leave this set to sRGB for now.
02:33Here, I can set the Size of the image. So if I'm going to be putting this file online
02:37then I'll need it to be smaller than the original raw file. I'll check
02:41Resize to Fit and if I leave this menu set to Width & Height, I can specify the
02:46dimensions of a box that describes the largest dimensions of the image.
02:51So for example, if I sent this to 600 pixels wide and 400 pixels tall, then
02:58neither the width nor the height would exceed these dimensions.
03:02But I wouldn't necessarily get a 600 x 400 pixel file, that depends on the proportions of the original.
03:08When I'm creating a copy for the web it really doesn't matter what the
03:11resolution is, because resolution means the number of pixels per inch or really
03:16per printed inch, so I'll leave that at its defaults.
03:19And there's no danger of enlarging the file in this process so I won't bother checking Don't Enlarge.
03:25Down here I can set my final Output Sharpening by clicking Sharpen For and
03:30choosing from this menu Screen because I'm preparing a copy for online viewing
03:35and I'll leave the Amount set the Standard.
03:37Now you remember that we've already sharpened the file originally in the Detail
03:41panel here in Lightroom, that was our initial capture sharpening. Then we
03:46did some creative sharpening with the Adjustment Brush tool. Now we're going
03:49to do our final sharpening. All of the sharpening events are cumulative.
03:54In the Metadata section, I can choose how much and what metadata I want to have
03:59included in the exported copy of the file.
04:02I'll go with copyright only, and then I'll scroll down.
04:06I'm not going to add Watermark, a Watermark is text or a graphic that appears on the face of the image.
04:12And down here I can choose what I want Lightroom to do after it finishes
04:16exporting this file. I'll ask it to show me the exported file in the Finder.
04:20If I want to save these settings for use on another image I'll go over here
04:24and click Add. I'll these my online jpeg settings, and I'll click Create.
04:32That gives me preset consisting of all the options that I chose here, so next
04:36time I want to use these options I just have to open this dialog box and choose this user preset.
04:41Finally I'll click Export, and here at the top of Lightroom, I get a progress bar
04:46that's telling me how the export is going. When it's done Lightroom opens
04:51the folder that it created and into which it saved this JPEG copy of the file.
04:56Now let's go back into the Lightroom Library and see what's there.
05:01Here in my Lightroom Library you can see in the Folders panel that in addition
05:05to the exercise files, which contain the raw file we've been working on in the
05:09start folder, there is also a processed folder. That new processed folder has
05:15been automatically included in my Lightroom catalog, and it contains this image.
05:20If I hover over this image, you can see that this is the JPEG copy of the file
05:24that was just exported from Lightroom and automatically included in my Lightroom
05:28catalog because I checked Add to Catalog in the Export dialog box.
05:33This JPEG copy includes all of the global and local adjustments that we added
05:38to the original raw file, the master file from which this exported copy was created.
05:42That raw file is still here in my catalog and I can always go back to it
05:46and tweak my settings or add more. Or I could export other copies from that
05:52edited raw file, perhaps in other formats with other names or at other sizes for other purposes.
Collapse this transcript
Next steps
00:00Here we are back in Lightroom's Develop module with the final adjusted raw
00:04version of our project photo with all of the adjustments that we've added throughout this course.
00:09Let's get a closer look at the final product by holding down the Shift key
00:13and pressing the Tab key to dismiss the bars and columns in Lightroom, and
00:17then pressing L twice on the keyboard to view the image against this plain black background.
00:22You know here we've already done so much to enhance this image, taking it from
00:27the way it looked to me started like this to where it is now, this.
00:32But there's always more to be done, so I'd urge you to experiment applying other
00:37options and settings in Lightroom to see if you can change the mood
00:41or the overall look or just the way that this image is processed. As you do that, if you
00:46have questions about tools or techniques I'd invite you to view another of my
00:49courses in the lynda.com library, Up and Running with Lightroom 4.
00:54I hope you've enjoyed this course as much as I have.
00:57Thanks for joining me for Enhancing a Landscape Photo with Lightroom.
Collapse this transcript


Suggested courses to watch next:

Up and Running with Lightroom 4 (3h 13m)
Jan Kabili



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