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Illustrator CS6 One-on-One: Mastery

Illustrator CS6 One-on-One: Mastery

with Deke McClelland

 


The fourth in a series by industry-pro Deke McClelland on the premiere graphics creation application, Adobe Illustrator, this course shows you how to become a more efficient, exact, and creative designer with the advanced tools in Illustrator. Maximize your productivity with tools such as Smart Guides to precisely align your artwork, symbols that help you reuse it, and pattern brushes that allow you to tile it across the screen. Plus, learn how to add special creative touches to designs with the Gradient Mesh feature, great for creating photorealistic airbrushing effects; the Liquify and Envelope tools; the layered transparency you can achieve with opacity masks; and 3D effects like live, editable 3D type.
Topics include:
  • Setting up angular construction guides
  • Kerning and clipping hand-drawn type
  • Creating and naming symbols
  • Using symbols to simulate master pages
  • Creating a gradient mesh
  • Using gradients to cast shadows
  • Fading artwork with a gradient opacity mask
  • Warping and distorting artwork with Liquify and Envelope
  • Assembling a seamless pattern brush
  • Creating charts and pictographs
  • Working in 3D space

show more

author
Deke McClelland
subject
Design, Illustration
software
Illustrator CS6
level
Advanced
duration
6h 38m
released
Apr 30, 2013

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33. Using Smart Guides
Welcome to One-on-One
00:03 Hello. This is Deke McClelland.
00:05 Welcome to the final course in my four-part series devoted to your ultimate
00:09 mastery of the world's most powerful vector-based drawing software, which I
00:14 call Illustrator CS6 One-on-one Mastery. As many of you know one-on-one is all
00:21 about project based learning. That is to say you learn by rolling up
00:25 your sleeves, and creating compelling projects for yourself.
00:29 That way you'll be better equipped to create your own artwork in the future.
00:34 Now this course is eight chapters long. I'll start things off by demonstrating
00:38 the hidden power of smart guides which let you create precise logos and
00:42 schematic artwork. Then I'll show you symbols, which let you
00:48 replicate commonly used elements, and take advantage of 9 slice scaling.
00:53 We'll take a look at how you can create custom color contours using gradient mesh.
00:59 I'll show you how to mask entire layers, using opacity masks.
01:04 You'll apply custom distortions, using the liquefy tools, and envelope commands.
01:09 I'll teach you how to assemble a seamless multi-part pattern brush.
01:14 You'll learn how to create a custom pictograph from a spread sheet of
01:18 numerical data and finally we'll see how you can apply 3D effects to path outlines
01:23 and live editable type. The result is a contextualized learning program.
01:31 Illustrator's features make sense because you apply them to clearly defined tasks,
01:35 and you leave each chapter with a genuine sense of accomplishment.
01:40 In this first chapter, I'll show you how to set up a world of constraints at 30
01:44 degree increments. Using the little known, but exceedingly
01:48 useful, construction guides. And while that may not sound exciting,
01:52 construction guides allow me to to take this rough sketch for a personalized
01:56 logo, and turn it into this fully-realized piece of artwork.
02:01 Here, let me show you exactly how they work.
02:05
59:59 (music playing)
Collapse this transcript
Setting up angular construction guides
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to work with construction guides, which are a
00:04 variety of smart guides which allow you to create lines at very specific angles.
00:09 So inside of this artwork we have these diagonal lines that are running at 60
00:12 degree angles. And then we have the vertical lines which
00:16 are 90 degrees. And both 60 and 90 are multiples of 30 degrees.
00:22 So sometimes you have to use a little bit of math, I don't think it's that hard,
00:25 but you do have to think it through. I'll go ahead switch over to this
00:29 starterguides.ai file which contains a few horizontal guidelines as well this
00:33 big guide structure in the center here. But it'll just help us to better keep
00:38 track of what's going on. Then you want to press Ctrl+K or Cmd+K on
00:42 the Mac to bring up the preferences dialog box.
00:46 And click on Smart Guides here inside the left hand list.
00:49 And now notice this option right there, Construction Guides.
00:52 By default, it's set to 90 and 45 degree angles.
00:55 I'm going to go ahead and switch it to 30 degree angles.
00:59 Now, the thing about 30 degrees, if you decide to switch to it, is you're ruling
01:03 out 45 degrees, because straight diagonal lines are 45 degrees, which is to say,
01:07 not multiple of 30 degrees. So you're going to skip from zero to 30
01:12 to 60 to 90 and so forth. If you also want to incorporate 45
01:16 degrees, then you want this guy right here, 90 degrees and 15 degrees because
01:20 after all, 45 and 30 are both multiples of 15.
01:24 Anyway, I'm going to switch over to this guy 30 degree angles.
01:28 And then you've got to turn on this checkbox.
01:30 It doesn't turn on automatically. So, go ahead and turn on construction guides.
01:34 Notice that now that the only checkbox that's off is Transform tools.
01:37 You can turn it on if you want to, but it's not going to make any difference for
01:40 our purposes. And then, I recommend you change the
01:43 color from green, which is a little bit hard to see, especially in video, I'm
01:46 going to switch it over to light red, which is going to be a lot more obvious.
01:50 Also, it'll stand in stark contrast to our artwork, which we'll be coloring with
01:54 shades of yellow, green and blue. All right, so now I'll go ahead click OK.
01:59 And then what you want to do is go up to the View menu, and either confirm that
02:02 the smart guides command is turned on, or if it's not, go ahead and chose the command.
02:07 Or of course you can press that keyboard shortcut Ctrl+U or Cmd+U on a Mac.
02:11 Now, the best way to draw these lines at 60 and 90 degree angles, is to use the
02:15 pen tool, because it's going to give you the best feedback.
02:19 Then you want to click right about there, on this guide, really anywhere
02:21 along this horizontal guide right here. And then, bring your cursor up until you
02:26 see that you've got this slightly diagonal line.
02:29 And you can also see down in the lower left region of the screen a line 60
02:32 degrees which is telling me that I'm creating a line that is 60 degrees
02:36 rotated upward from the horizontal. I can also see that I'm intersecting with
02:41 the top guideline which is what I want. So I'll go ahead and click right there.
02:45 And then I'll move my cursor straight down like so.
02:47 You don't have to press the shift keys when you're working with smart guides
02:49 like this. You can create 90 degree angles just like
02:52 so, just by dropping down. Clicking at the point where you see intersect.
02:56 Then move your cursor back up so you see intersect at the top guideline.
03:00 You also should see a line 60 degrees at the bottom guideline.
03:03 Then go ahead and click there, drop down to this point.
03:06 You should see a line 90 degrees at the top guideline, an intersect at the bottom
03:10 guideline, in which case click. And then move your cursor up until you
03:14 see intersect at the top, aligned 60 degrees at the bottom, click at that
03:17 point, and then drop down to the bottom guideline again until you see aligned 90
03:20 degrees at the top and intersect at the bottom.
03:24 And it's very important that you see both words.
03:27 If I move my cursor slightly over I can see the word guide, so that tells me I'm
03:30 intersecting with the guide but it does not tell me that I have an exactly
03:33 vertical line. I only have a vertical line if I see a
03:36 line 90 degrees up there at the top, then you want to go ahead and click to set
03:40 that final point. All right, we want to make a few additional
03:43 modifications here, go ahead and switch to the black arrow tool, which you can
03:46 get by pressing the V key. And drag this anchor point right there,
03:51 the bottom right one until it snaps into alignment with the intersection of these
03:55 vertical and horizontal guides. Then go into the control panel, change
04:00 the first swatch, the fill swatch, to none and go ahead and click on the word
04:03 stroke and we'll change the weight to 20 points in this case.
04:08 And I do want mitered corners nice sharp mitered corners like you see here and I
04:12 also want to extend the cap. So we want projecting caps for this
04:17 particular art work, and that we can clip off the caps without having any gaps in
04:20 our art work. Now we want to go ahead and scoot the
04:25 letters over half of their current line weight.
04:28 So line weight is 20 points, obviously. So we want to move the artwork over 10 points.
04:33 And I'm doing so, just actually, accidentally by pressing the enter key,
04:36 or the return key on a Mac in order to bring up the move dialog box.
04:40 And I'll change that horizontal value to negative 10 points like so which will
04:44 scoot the selected path over to the left. And then I'll click the OK button in
04:49 order to make that change. And that friends, is how you create
04:53 exactly angled lines using construction guides here inside Illustrator.
04:59
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Shaving off miter joins and projecting caps
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to shave away angled bevel joints, as well as
00:03 projecting caps, using a clipping mask. And this is pretty simple stuff by now frankly.
00:09 But hopefully it'll give you a sense of how to create your own precisely angled
00:12 schematic artwork. I'll go ahead and switch over to my
00:15 illustration in progress, and I'll zoom in as well, so we can take in more of the
00:18 art work. And I'll click on this zig zag path
00:21 outline to select it. Now what I want to do is cleave away
00:24 these miter joints at an exactly horizontal angle.
00:28 However, if I were to do so in the traditional manner, by clicking on the
00:31 word Stroke up here on the control panel, and then changing the corner to a bevel
00:34 joint, you can see that I don't get the right effect at all.
00:38 Instead what Illustrator is doing is, it is of course beveling off the miters but
00:42 it's splitting the difference between the angles of the two neighboring segments
00:46 and that's not what we want at all. So, we'll press Ctrl Z or Cmd Z on a Mac
00:51 in order to undo that change. Now, we're going to start things by
00:54 adding a few path outlines based on the existing one.
00:57 But first, I'm going to change the color of the stroke by clicking on the second
01:01 color swatch, and then switching out to standard black for a rich black.
01:05 So we get a nice dark path outline and that will help eliminate any trapping
01:08 problems as well. Then I'll press Ctrl C or Cmd C on a Mac,
01:12 in order to copy this line. And now we want to create these little
01:17 blue peaks up here at the top of the logo art.
01:20 And I'll do that by switching back to my illustration in progress, clicking on a
01:24 second color swatch right there, and then changing it to this pre-defined shade of blue.
01:29 And you can see that it's C65M15Y0K0. And we end up getting this effect here.
01:37 Now, go ahead and press Ctrl F or Cmd F on a Mac in order to paste in that
01:40 original path outline. And this time we want to add the green
01:45 fill, which needs to be independent of the black stroke, for reasons that will
01:48 become evident in a future movie. But for now, just go ahead and change
01:53 the second stroke to none, and then change the fill swatch, the first one
01:57 here, to this shade of green, which is C80M25Y100K0, and you get this effect here.
02:05 All right, now let's go ahead and zoom back out here, by pressing Ctrl 0, or Cmd 0 on
02:09 the Mac. And press the A key to switch to the
02:12 white arrow tool, and then go ahead and click off the path outline and select
02:15 this lower left anchor point, right here. Now it's very important that your smart
02:20 guides are still turned on. Notice that you can see the word anchor
02:23 right there when I hover over the anchor point.
02:26 It's barely visible, probably inside the video but if you're working along with me
02:29 you should be able to see a red word anchor against that green background on
02:32 the left hand side. As you drag you want to make sure that,
02:37 that red text changes to a line 60 degrees, so that we're keeping the angle
02:40 of this line segment at exactly 60 degrees from horizontal, and then drag
02:44 down until you intersect with the next horizontal guide down, and then release
02:48 like so. Then drag this lower right anchor point
02:53 down, and you should see the words align 90 degrees up there along that higher
02:57 guideline, and then you should see intersect along the bottom one, in which
03:00 case go ahead and release in order to create this effect here.
03:07 Now press Ctrl F or Cmd F yet again, in order to paste the final copy of that
03:11 black zig zag line. Now you want to switch to the standard
03:16 rectangle tool, which you can get by pressing the M key, and draw a rectangle
03:19 from this top horizontal guide down to the next guideline below it, and make
03:23 sure that you have plenty of room over on the right and left hand sides so that the
03:27 clipping mask is as big as it needs to be, so, in other words it's an oversize
03:30 clipping mask, we're only interested in clipping the top and the bottom precisely.
03:39 Most likely you'll end up with this big thick black stroke, that doesn't actually
03:42 matter, just leave it there. Then press the V key in order to switch
03:46 to the black arrow tool, and Shift click in the black zig zag line and then Shift
03:50 click again, this time on the green filled path, in order to select them both.
03:56 And then you want to go up to the Object menu, choose Clipping Mask and choose Make.
04:01 And Illustrator will not only clip the paths below the rectangle, but it will
04:04 also get rid of the stroke around that rectangle.
04:07 And we end up with this effect here. I'll go ahead and click in an empty
04:11 region of the background to deselect the artwork, and I'll press Ctrl semicolon,
04:14 or Cmd semicolon on the Mac in order to hide the guidelines and then I'll go
04:17 ahead and zoom in here. And notice that we have these exactly
04:22 horizontal beveled joints as a result of that clipping mask, and they are exactly
04:26 where they want to be and we end up with these blue peaks in the background as well.
04:33 If you scroll down you will see that we have some problems with the blue mitre
04:37 joints as well as the projecting caps, but we'll end up resolving those issues
04:40 in future steps. In any event, a clipping mask is all you
04:45 need to shave away precisely angled bevel joints, and projecting caps here inside Illustrator.
04:53
Collapse this transcript
Precisely aligning angled logo artwork
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to create these initials in the center of the artwork.
00:04 and once again all the segments are angled at either 60 degrees or 90 degress.
00:09 I've gone ahead and shaved off the excess miter joints and projecting caps.
00:14 And most important of all. I've made sure that the initials
00:17 precisely align with the zig zag path outlines at the top so I'll start things
00:21 off by returning to my art in progress go ahead and zoom out a little as well and
00:24 press Ctrl + Semicolon or Cmd + Semicolon on the Mac to bring back my guidelines.
00:32 Now you want to select the pen tool once again by pressing the P key if you like
00:35 and then click somewhere along this horizontal guide.
00:40 And then move your cursor up so that you see a line 60 degrees down there along
00:44 that original guideline, and the word intersect along the guideline above it.
00:49 And then click at that location to create a line like so.
00:52 And then drop down to that original guideline, look for the words.
00:55 Align 90 degrees up top, and intersect down below, and then click.
01:00 And the click at about here. As soon as you see a line 60 degrees down
01:04 below intersect up at the top and then drop down again until you see a line 90
01:08 degrees at the top and intersect down below.
01:12 All right, now press the V key to switch to the black arrow tool and go ahead and
01:15 click on this top accurate point right there.
01:18 If you're working along with me, by the way, just in case make sure in the view
01:22 menu that the bounding box is turned off. So this command here should appear as
01:26 show bounding box, to indicate that it's currently hidden.
01:30 And that way you'll have an easier time grabbing anchor points and precisely
01:33 aligning the paths. And then go ahead and drag this anchor
01:37 point until it snaps into alignment with the anchor point at the beginning of the
01:41 black zig-zag path, and you should see the words intersect, as well as a white
01:44 snap cursor. Which indicates that everything's
01:49 precisely aligned. Then drag from this anchor point, the
01:52 top right one, all the way over to this location so that you're once again
01:56 snapping into alignment. This time with the right side of the zig
02:00 zag path, and the press and hold the ALT key or the Option key on a Mac.
02:04 And you should see a double-white arrow cursor showing you that you have a snap
02:08 and you're about to create a clone of the selected path, in which case, go ahead
02:12 and release the cursor in order to create a duplicate of that M.
02:18 Now, I'll drag this guy over to a fairly random location like so, and I'll press
02:21 the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac in order to create a copy.
02:26 I also have the Shift key down by the way.
02:28 So I've got shift down, alt down on the PC, shift and option down on the mac and
02:31 then release when you get your artwork, you know, more or less here.
02:35 And then you want to double-click on the rotate tool.
02:38 In order to bring up the rotate dialog box.
02:40 Set the angle to 180 degrees. It doesn't matter where the
02:44 transformation origin is located. The fact that the w's off center is a
02:48 problem that we'll solve in just a second.
02:51 But make sure the preview check box is turned on so you can see what you're
02:53 doing, and then click OK. And now you want to press the V key to
02:56 again switch to the black arrow tool. And drag this upper right anchor point
03:00 until it snaps into alignment at this point right there.
03:05 And you'll get those letters exactly where they need to be.
03:08 All right now we need another clipping mask in the form of a rectangle.
03:11 So go ahead and select the rectangle tool from the toolbox.
03:14 And then you should be able to move your cursor over to the right here.
03:16 Until you see the lower right corner of the previous rectangular clipping mask.
03:21 And you don't have to exactly align to it but it's just a good idea if you want to
03:25 keep things tidy and make the artwork a little easier to navigate in the future
03:28 and then drag from this location down and to left, like so, until you snap into
03:31 alignment like this with the left side of that existing rectangular clipping mask.
03:39 And then go ahead and release, and you should end up with this effect.
03:43 In which case, switch back to the black arrow tool and then go ahead and marquee
03:46 like so through the center of the bottom rectangle along with the three letters.
03:52 And that should just select those four objects that you see selected here on my screen.
03:57 Then you want to go out to the object menu, choose clipping mask an choose
04:01 make, an you will clip those letters like so.
04:04 An you can see, that we have everything precisely aligned, kind of, but we do
04:08 have a little bit of a problem. I'll go ahead an press Ctrl + Shift + A,
04:13 or Cmd + Shift + A on a Mac to deselect the artwork, an then I'll press Ctrl +
04:15 Semicolon, or Cmd + Semicolon on a Mac. In order to hide the guidelines and now
04:21 zoom in. And notice that we've got some wiggles
04:25 scenes here, we'll take care of that problem in the next movie, but in the
04:28 mean time we've got some kind of realignment problems as well, so the
04:31 green is cutting down into the top of the M.
04:36 But if you switch over to this location here, it's not coming down far enough
04:40 because it's leaving part of that blue stroke in the background revealed.
04:44 So in other words, you have to make a design decision at this point, and what I
04:47 recommend you do is press the A key to switch to the wide air tool, and then
04:50 just go ahead and marquee this region right there.
04:55 The seam that is between the green and the white, and that's going to select the
04:58 bottom edge of the top clipping mask and the top edge of the bottom clipping mask.
05:03 Then you want to press Ctrl + K the Cmd key on a Mac to bring at the Preferences
05:06 dialog box and choose a keyboard increment to one point as by default and
05:10 then click OK. Now, press the Down Arrow key, because
05:14 you've just have those two coincidence horizontal segments selected Press the
05:18 Down Arrow key a total of three times in a row in order to produce this effect
05:21 here, and then you can click off the paths in order to deselect them.
05:27 And notice that we have this nice intersection at this location.
05:31 We don't have such a nice intersection over here or in the case of the far right
05:34 side of the artwork. However, everything looks hunky-dory over
05:38 here on the left-hand side of the artwork.
05:40 So, now what we've got to do is deal with these seams right here, as well as these
05:45 choppy transitions. And I'll show you how to fix those
05:49 problems in the very next movie.
05:52
Collapse this transcript
Covering up gaps and seams in your logo
00:00 In this movie, we're going to fix these bad seams between the initials and the
00:04 zigzag mountain peak path outlines above them, by adding overlapping transitional
00:08 path outlines, based on paths that we've already created.
00:13 So the first thing I want you to do, just to make things easier to select, is to
00:17 press Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y on a Mac, in order to switch to the Outline mode.
00:22 And then press the A key in order to switch to the wide arrow tool.
00:26 And we want to select this anchor point right there.
00:29 But if I click at this location, I'm going to select the zigzag line above
00:32 instead of the initials down here at the bottom, which is a little bit crazy
00:35 because the initials are sitting on top. But the problem is that that little
00:41 corner right there, is clipped away, in the initials.
00:44 So what you need to do instead, is click on this M in the bottom right corner of
00:47 the artwork, and then click on its top right anchor point instead.
00:52 All right, now press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on the Mac to switch back to the preview mode.
00:57 And I'm going to zoom out a little bit here and then, still armed with the White
01:00 arrow tool, I'll Shift-click on this diagonal segment to select it
01:03 independently of the rest of the path. And that way we'll be able to create a
01:08 transitional line down and to the left like so.
01:11 And now we need to do something similar for this area, as well as this point of intersection.
01:17 And the best way to solve those problems is to select these two neighboring
01:20 segments right here. So shift-click on this vertical segment,
01:24 and then shift-click on the left-most diagonal segment as well.
01:29 And now you have a total of three of these segments up top selected, as well
01:32 as these two down here selected. Then go ahead and press Ctrl+C, or Cmd+C
01:38 on a Mac, in order to copy them. Now press the V key to switch to the
01:42 Black arrow tool and click off the ass outlines in order to deselect everything.
01:47 And then press Ctrl+F, or Cmd+F on a Mac, in order to paste those path outlines
01:50 outside of their former clipping masks. And you can see that they appear, or they
01:56 at least should, if you're working along with me, as four path outlines, here at
02:00 the top of the MWM logo layer, inside the Layers panel.
02:05 Now, we've gone ahead and covered up those seams, as you can see.
02:08 So this guy's totally covered up, nice and hidden.
02:11 This one could possibly be better. Might as well go ahead and lengthen the segment.
02:15 And I'm going to to do that by pressing the A key to switch to the Wide arrow
02:17 tool once again. I'll click off the path to deselect it.
02:21 I'll go ahead and click on this anchor point to select it, and I'll drag it down
02:25 until it snaps into alignment with the bottom right corner of the W.
02:30 And don't worry about the projecting cap, we're going to clip that away.
02:33 And now we want to do something similar with this anchor point, so go ahead and
02:36 click on it. And this is the bottom left anchor point,
02:39 in the top zig zag by the way, the top copied segment.
02:43 And then you want to go ahead and drag it down until it snaps into alignment with
02:46 the bottom left corner of the first M, and you'll end up with this effect here.
02:51 All right, now go ahead and zoom out. And we need to once again add a clipping mask.
02:56 So press the M key to switch to the Rectangle tool.
02:58 Press Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y on a Mac, to switch to the Outline mode, so that you
03:02 can see the two existing clipping masks. And let's go ahead and create a new one
03:07 inside of them. It would be nice to have the guidelines
03:10 back though, so press Ctrl+; or Cmd+; on a Mac, to display them once again.
03:15 They're not really appearing in the best shape, because when you're working in the
03:19 outline mode, guides appear black. So, if that bugs you, then you could just
03:24 switch back to the preview mode by pressing Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y again.
03:28 And I'll think I'll do that because it'll make things a little more obvious.
03:31 And I'll drag from this horizontal guide up here at the top, down to this location
03:35 right there. And I'm trying to keep the new rectangle
03:38 inside of the existing ones just to make things easier to tell apart.
03:43 All right, now, with that new rectangle selected, I'll go ahead and Shift-click
03:47 on this guy, right there. And then you want to Shift-click on this
03:52 path segment, as well as this one and this one.
03:55 So you should have a total of five segments selected on screen.
03:59 And these are the path outlines right here.
04:01 This is the first five paths at the top of that MWM logo layer.
04:05 Then go up to the Object menu, choose Clipping Mask and choose Make, in order
04:09 to place those paths inside of the clipping mask.
04:14 Now, all is not well, as you can see here.
04:17 If you zoom in on this location, right there, you can see that we've got a
04:21 little bit of an extra edge that we definitely do not want, nor do we need it.
04:26 And the simplest way to solve this problem, in my opinion, Is to press the A
04:29 key to switch to the Wide arrow tool. Go ahead and twirl open that top clip
04:33 group, and I'm going to rename it, by the way.
04:36 I'm going to call it Covers, because these are lines that are covering up
04:38 other details, and I might as well rename these other guys too so I can keep track
04:41 of them. Those are the initials.
04:45 This side in here is what I'm calling Interweave, because it will ultimately
04:48 contain some interwoven details, and then I'll double-click this guy at the bottom
04:51 and call it Peaks. Having done that I'll twirl open the
04:56 Covers group, and I'll go ahead and lock down the clipping mask at the top so that
04:59 it doesn't get in my way. And I'll select these two top anchor
05:04 points like so, but that's going to end up selecting a bunch of other details
05:07 inside the artwork as you can see. Specifically, the interweave and the peaks.
05:13 And to deselect them, you want to Shift-click on their little target
05:16 meatballs here, inside the Layers panel. And that way we have just these two
05:20 anchor points selected. And if everything's selected properly,
05:23 then we can go up to the object menu, choose Path and choose Join, or you can
05:26 press Ctrl+J, or Cmd+J on a Mac, to join those two anchor points into one.
05:31 That turns that location into a miter join, and gets rid of that little problem
05:34 right there. All right, we've got a couple of others,
05:37 though, as well. I'll go ahead and scroll down to the
05:40 bottom of the art. And it looks like I just took that
05:42 clipping mass too far down, which means that I need to raise it, which of course
05:45 means that I need to unlock it. So I'll twirl open Covers and unlock that
05:49 clipping mass, and then I'll select that bottom edge there, and I'll just go ahead
05:53 and drag it up. Might as well press the Shift key as
05:56 well, in order to constrain the angle of my dragging to exactly vertical.
06:00 But that doesn't quite take care of these two problems right here.
06:04 So notice this path outline extends out too far.
06:07 I'll go ahead and zoom in so you can see what I mean.
06:09 And this is the kind of stuff you run into when you're trying to create this
06:12 kind of art. And even though it's a little bit
06:15 exasperating, the problems are easily solved.
06:17 Just go ahead and lock down that clipping mask once again inside the twirled open
06:21 Covers item, and select this anchorpoint. And just go ahead and drag it up and you
06:26 should see at least the word Path, or a line 60 degrees at the bottom there.
06:30 Either is fine, the word path would tell you that you're following the angle of
06:33 the path, which works as well. Just go ahead and drag it up a little bit
06:37 until you get rid of that extra edge. And then grab this guy, this anchor
06:41 point, and drag it up, and see what I mean by the word Path?
06:44 That's entirely acceptable. That shows you that you're matching the
06:47 angle of the path underneath, which is what you want.
06:50 In which case, go ahead release in order to move that anchor point.
06:54 And you can see now, if I press Ctrl+; or Cmd+; on the Mac, once again, to hide the
06:58 guidelines, that we have now covered up all the bad intersections.
07:03 And we no longer have any seams whatsoever inside of our artwork.
07:08
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Creating ornaments based on miter joins
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to create these kind of yellow fire elements at the
00:03 top of the initial. And it's a matter of modifying the
00:07 existing miters while precisely maintaining the angles of those line segments.
00:13 So I'll go ahead and switch to the artwork in progress here and I'll zoom in
00:16 as well. And I want to be able to select these
00:19 points right here at the tops of these initials, but I can't get to them because
00:22 they're clipped away. So what I need to do is go to the W and
00:26 double-click on this segment right here, in order to enter the Group Isolation
00:30 mode for this particular clipping group. Then press the A key in order to switch
00:35 to the White arrow tool and locate the top of that W right there, and you should
00:39 see an anchor point. Go ahead and click on it and then
00:42 shift-click on the anchor point up here at the top of the M.
00:46 Notice that these guys are ever so slightly clipped away.
00:48 So you'll have to move your cursor up a little bit higher than the bottom edge of
00:52 that green space, and then shift-click at this location as well.
00:57 And each time you select one of these anchor points, you're not only selecting
01:00 the point but you're selecting the two neighboring segments as well.
01:04 Then go up to the Edit menu, and choose the Copy command.
01:08 Then press the Esc key in order to escape out of the Isolation mode.
01:12 And press Ctrl+Shift+A, or Cmd+Shift+A on the Mac, to deselect all of the initials.
01:17 And press Ctrl+F, or Cmd+F on the Mac, in order to paste copies of those three sets
01:21 of pointy line segments outside of their former clipping paths.
01:26 Now go up to the control panel and change the color of the stroke, that is the
01:29 second color swatch, to the shade of yellow which is C0 M10 Y80 and K0, and
01:33 and you'll end up with this effect here. All right, now what you want to do is
01:40 switch to the Object menu. Choose Path and then choose Outline
01:43 Stroke, or if you loaded D Keys, you have a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+\, or Cmd+\
01:47 on the Mac, in order to produce this effect here.
01:53 And now let's go ahead and zoom in on this far left stroke here.
01:56 And we'll go ahead and edit it using the Pen tool.
01:59 So with this path outline selected, press the P key to switch to the Pen tool and
02:02 click right about there. Doesn't matter if you go slightly your
02:06 own way in order to add an anchor point at this location.
02:10 And then, click right about there as well.
02:12 So that we've added two anchor points along this straight segment.
02:16 Then press the A key to switch to the wide arrow tool.
02:19 And grab this middle anchor point right there, and drag it inward and downward
02:23 like so. And you don't want to take it too far
02:25 down, maybe about there will work. You may also want to drag up on this
02:29 anchor point. If you do, you probably want to press the
02:32 Shift key in order to constrain the angle of your drag to exactly vertical.
02:36 And then I'm going to drag this guy up and over, and I want to make sure that as
02:39 I drag upward that I'm still seeing a line 60 degrees in red, against that
02:42 field of green, which makes it pretty difficult to see, but it is there for me.
02:49 And make sure it's there for you, and then at any old point, when you think
02:52 you've got something you like, just go ahead and release the mouse button in
02:55 order to produce an effect like this one. And I'm going to select this anchor point
02:59 as well, and just press the up arrow key a couple of times in order to nudge it upward.
03:04 All right, now let's duplicate this effect by pressing the V key to switch to
03:07 the Black arrow tool. I'll go ahead and click on the path
03:10 outline to select it. Then I'll zoom out a little bit so I can
03:12 see more of what I'm doing. And I'll go ahead and drag from this
03:16 anchor point right there. And as I drag I'll press the Shift and
03:19 Alt keys, or the Shift and Option keys on a Mac.
03:22 And once I snap into alignment with the similarly yellow path that's on top of
03:25 the W there, I'll see a double white arrow cursor, which shows me that I'm
03:28 snapping and that I'm about to create a clone as soon as I release the mouse button.
03:34 And then you can release the Shift and Alt keys, or the Shift and Option keys on
03:37 the Mac. Now you might as well get rid of these
03:40 two yellow paths here. Click on this one to select it, so notice
03:43 I'm clicking inside at that little cleaved detail there, and I'll shift
03:45 click on this one as well, in order to select them both, and then press the
03:48 Backspace key, or the Delete key on the Mac, to get rid of them.
03:53 And then select this guy again and press Ctrl+D, or Cmd+D on the Mac, in order to
03:57 duplicate it onto the final M. Now go ahead and select all the yellow paths.
04:02 And the easiest way to do that is to locate the Select Similar Objects icon on
04:05 the right side of the Control panel, click the down-pointing arrowhead.
04:10 Make sure it's set to All. And then go ahead and click on the icon
04:13 in order to select all the yellow paths. Now press Ctrl+X, or Cmd+X on a Mac, in
04:17 order to cut those paths to the clipboard.
04:21 Now, twirl open the MWM Logo layer and then twirl open that Interweave group,
04:25 which is the zigzag mountainous lines at the top of the logo.
04:30 Scroll your way down the list, and then when you find this green path outline
04:33 right there go ahead and meatball it by clicking on its circular target.
04:38 And now, press Ctrl+F, or Cmd+F on a Mac, in order to paste those yellow paths in
04:42 front of the green path outline. And because we're working inside of a
04:47 clipping mask, Illustrator goes ahead and clips those yellow fiery details as well.
04:52 And now you can go ahead and press Ctrl+Shift+A, or Cmd+Shift+A on a Mac, in
04:55 order to deselect the artwork. So that's how you go about modifying a
05:00 miter join, in order to create a fancy, but still highly stylized, and accurate
05:04 effect, here, inside Illustrator.
05:08
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Hand-drawing letters as stroked paths
00:00 In this movie, we'll hand draw the letters in the word Maximilian, and we'll
00:03 do so as we've done most everything we've done so far, using a series of stroked
00:07 path outlines. And again, most of the segments are
00:11 angled either at 90 degrees, 60 degrees, zero degrees, in the case of the
00:15 crossbars across the a's. The only exception is the x, which is a
00:19 little different. Switch over to my illustration in
00:23 progress, and press Ctrl+semicolon, or Cmd+semicolon on a Mac, in order to bring
00:26 back my guidelines. And then I'll press the P key in order to
00:30 switch to the Pen tool. Your smart guide should still be turned
00:33 on, by the way. And then you want to go ahead and click
00:36 at this bottom left-most intersection in the guidelines in order to set an anchor
00:40 point there. And then click at this location, and
00:44 notice, you're not only intersecting the guidelines.
00:47 You're also creating a segment that aligns to 60 degrees.
00:51 Then click down here, so you see a line, 90 degrees at the top and intersect at
00:54 the bottom. Click up again when you see a line 60
00:57 degrees down at the bottom, and intersect at the top, and then click down when you
01:02 see these words on screen. All right, now what we want to do is
01:06 assign this path outline at different strokes.
01:08 So I'll the V key to switch to the black arrow tool.
01:11 Then I'll go ahead and click on my M. And I'll go up to the control panel, and
01:15 I'll change the line weight, this time to ten points, and I'll go ahead and change
01:20 the color of the stroke to that dark green, ZADM25y100k0.
01:26 And I'll change the fill to none. And we end up with this effect here.
01:31 And now I'm going to zoom in, by the way, so that I can take in my text a little tighter.
01:35 And I need to move it over. Notice that the outside edge of the black
01:39 initial aligns to the guideline, where the center of the green m is in alignment
01:43 with that guide. So, I'll double-click on the Black Arrow
01:48 tool in order to bring up the Move dialog box.
01:50 You want to set the vertical value to zero, and then set the horizontal value
01:55 to 5.75 points. In order to create this effect here.
01:58 And you might wonder why 5.75, why not just 5 points?
02:02 Well you can see, because the line is angled, that moving the line in five
02:05 points, which is what I'd do if I was moving it inward from a vertical
02:08 guideline, or downward from a horizontal guide, because that's half the 10 point
02:11 line weight. However, because the segment is at an
02:16 angle, I actually had to use trigonometry.
02:20 But I'll tell you, you can just eyeball it as well.
02:23 And you'd figure out that 5.75 points is going to work just fine.
02:27 Then click OK. All right, now let's create the other m
02:30 that appears at the middle of my child's name.
02:33 And I'll do that by taking the existing one and dragging it by its top right
02:36 anchor point until it snaps into alignment with the anchor point at the
02:40 bottom of the big w. And then I'll press the Alt key, or the
02:44 Option key on a Mac, and release my mouse button in order to create a duplicate of
02:48 this location. Now, it's hard to get this one to snap
02:52 into place right, so you might want to press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac.
02:56 Make sure that things have snapped properly.
02:58 In other words, you want this path outline to continue into the bottom m,
03:02 like so. So the angle of those two lines should be
03:05 exactly the same. Now, double-click on the Black Arrow tool
03:09 again to bring up the Position dialog box.
03:11 And what's great about this is we just moved the path outline this terrific
03:15 horizontal distance. We don't care about that.
03:19 We now know this is the distance we wanted.
03:21 So just go and change that value to zero, in order to skip to the vertical value.
03:26 We don't want to move it upward however, so we want to undo the upward movement by
03:30 changing the vertical value to a negative version of what it was before.
03:35 So it was negative 20, meaning that we need to change it to positive 20.
03:40 And so these two values, zero for horizontal and 20 for vertical, end up
03:43 producing exactly the effect we're looking for.
03:46 Then click OK in order to accept that change and now you'll see now that the
03:50 two m's are precisely horizontally aligned with each other.
03:55 All right, now for the other letters. Go ahead and press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a
03:58 Mac to switch back to the preview mode, and press the A key in order to switch to
04:01 the Wide Arrow tool, and click on this top anchor point in this first m to
04:05 select it, and then press Ctrl+C, Cmd+C on a Mac to copy it, press Ctrl+F or
04:09 Cmd+F on a Mac to make a copy of just those two segments and then drag them over.
04:17 This will eventually be our a. Next we want to make an x, follow by an i.
04:21 So you might as well make a copy of this a, just by dragging it while pressing the
04:24 Shift and Alt keys, that would be the Shift and Option keys on the Mac, until
04:27 you create a copy of this location. And then, go ahead and switch to the
04:33 Scissors tool, which you can get from the Eraser tool File menu, or you can just
04:36 press the C key, and click on this top anchor point, in order to sever those two
04:40 segments away from each other. And I'll go ahead and zoom in to get rid
04:45 of that screen artifact as well. And then I'll press the V key to get my
04:48 Black Arrow tool. I'll marquee this diagonal path.
04:52 And press Shift+Left Arrow a few times to move it over to the left.
04:55 And then I'll go ahead and switch from the Rotate tool to the Reflect tool,
04:57 which you can get by pressing the O key. Double-click on the tool inside the
05:02 toolbox, change the axis to vertical, and click Copy, and you've got yourself an x.
05:07 Problem is, it's too narrow in my opinion, so I went ahead and pressed the
05:10 A key to get the White Arrow tool. And then I went ahead and marqueed these
05:14 two right-hand points. Then I pressed the Enter key or the
05:17 Return key on a Mac to bring up the Move dialog box, and I changed the horizontal
05:20 value to eight, and then I'll click OK. And then I did the same thing for the
05:25 left anchor point. So go ahead and select them and press the
05:29 Enter key, or the Return key on a Mac. And this time I'll change the horizontal
05:33 value to negative eight. But you don't really have to do it that way.
05:36 You could've just moved one set of points 16 points in either direction and you
05:39 would've gotten the same effect, but just giving you a sense of how I put this
05:43 together in the first place. Then I'll click OK in order to make that change.
05:49 All right, now I am going to zoom out a little bit, so I can see more of my
05:52 artwork at a time. And I'll press the V key to get the Black
05:55 Arrow tool. I'll go ahead and grab that I there, and
05:58 Shift+Alt+drag it or Shift+Option+drag it over to the right, like so.
06:02 I'll make another copy right about there. And I need another copy right there for
06:06 the l, so I'll go ahead and create it. And then I'll go ahead and zoom in on
06:10 that l. And the bottom of the l, by the way,
06:13 needs to go ahead and lift upward so that it's inside of this guideline.
06:18 So I'll press the A key in order to switch to the White Arrow tool, I'll
06:21 click off the path outline then I'll click on that bottom anchor point.
06:25 And then I'll press the Enter key or the Return key again, in order to bring up
06:28 the Move dialog box. I'll change the horizontal value to zero,
06:31 and I'll change the vertical value to half the line weight, negative five,
06:34 which raises that anchor point up five points.
06:38 Then I'll click OK. And now I press the P key to switch to
06:40 the Pen tool, and I'll click on that anchor point to make it active.
06:44 And I'll Shift-click right about there in order to add a new anchor point and
06:48 create that mitre joint. So now the l is laying right there on the guideline.
06:54 All right, I want the bottom of the l to be a very specific length.
06:56 So I'm going to press the A key, switch to the Lined Arrow tool.
06:59 And I'm going to go ahead and drag the right-hand anchor point back over to the
07:02 left-hand one so it snaps back into place like so.
07:05 So we've got two anchor points right on top of each other.
07:08 And then I'll press the Enter key for the billionth time here, in order to bring up
07:11 the Move dialog box. And I'll change the horizontal value to
07:14 35 points and leave the vertical value set to zero points.
07:17 So, this segment right here is exactly 35 points long.
07:19 And then, I'll click OK in order to accept that change.
07:22 All right, let's go ahead and zoom out a little bit so that I can better see what
07:25 I'm doing. We've got ten letters here.
07:28 One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, so we need two more.
07:32 So I'll go ahead and press the V key to get my Black Arrow tool, and I'll
07:35 Shift+drag that I over a little bit, and then I'll go ahead and grab that a, and
07:39 I'll Shift+Alt+drag it over to about here, for example, in order to create a
07:42 copy of it. And then, I'll double-click on the
07:48 Reflect tool. And make sure that axis is again set to
07:51 vertical, and then click OK this time, we don't need to click copy.
07:55 And then go ahead and press the P key to get the Pen tool.
07:57 Click at this anchor point and Shift-click there, on that guy, in order
08:00 to create the final segment of the n. And now we need to go ahead and select
08:05 this guy with the Black Arrow tool, drag it over by this anchor point til it snaps
08:09 into alignment. And then press the Enter key, or the
08:13 Return key on a Mac, in order to bring up the Move dialog box.
08:16 And change the horizontal value to half the line weight, negative five, in order
08:19 to move it to the left. So we're aligning the right edge of the
08:22 end with a right edge of the initial above, and then click OK.
08:26 All right, we just need to make the crossbar in the a, so I'll go ahead and
08:29 zoom in on it. And I'll press the P key in order to get
08:32 my Pen tool and I'll click here and Shift-click here, just to draw a
08:35 horizontal line. Then I'll press the V key to get my Black
08:39 Arrow tool. I'll go and drag this guy until it snaps
08:41 into alignment right there, with this anchor point at the bottom.
08:44 I'll press the Enter key or the Return key on the Mac to bring up the Move
08:47 dialog box. I'll change the horizontal value to zero,
08:50 and the vertical value to negative 25 points.
08:54 And I'll be honest with you, when I was originally coming up with these values, I
08:56 figured them out, by pressing the arrow keys and just nudging things around.
09:00 But these are the final values I came up with.
09:03 So now I'll click OK in order to accept that change.
09:06 All right, now I'll go ahead and zoom out.
09:08 And naturally, I want to go ahead and create a copy of this a.
09:12 So I'll go ahead and marquee these two path outlines.
09:14 And I'll Shift+Alt+drag or Shift+Option+drag them over to the right
09:17 hand side, like so. And we now have the word Maximilian,
09:21 which is fine. But we've got some spacing problems, of
09:23 course, that we need to address. And we need to go ahead and move these
09:27 lines downward and clip the letters as well.
09:30 And I'll show you how all that works in the next movie.
09:33 (BLANK_AUDIO)
09:33
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Kerning and clipping hand-drawn type
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to take our custom letter forms, and we're
00:03 going to extend the caps, as well as properly space all the letters,
00:06 essentially apply some custom kerning on the fly.
00:11 And then we'll clip the letters as well, in order to create this final version of
00:14 the logo. So, first thing I want to do, is select
00:17 all these letters just by dragging across them with the black arrow tool.
00:21 And I should drag down this way so that I get the crossbars and the A's as well.
00:26 And then I'll click on the word Stroke up here in the Options bar and I'll select
00:30 the projecting Cap item from that list of Cap icons so that I'm extending all the
00:34 caps outside of the guidelines. That way we can clip all the edges of the
00:39 letter forms horizontally, just as we've done in the past.
00:43 Then press the Escape key in order to hide that panel.
00:46 Next thing we want to do is work on these As a little bit.
00:49 I'm going to Zoom In on the left-hand A and I'll Press the A of all keys to
00:52 Switch to the Wide Arrow tool. And then, I'll Click Off the Path Outline
00:56 to Deselect it and I'll Select this Anchor Point right there.
00:59 And you can see that it extends outward too far.
01:02 I'll press control Y or command Y on the Mac to switch to the outline mode.
01:06 Then I'll go ahead and drag this guy in until it intersects.
01:09 And I've got the shift key down as well to constrain the angle of my drag to
01:12 exactly horizontal. Then press control y or command y again
01:15 in order to switch back to the preview mode.
01:18 And you can see that that projecting cap. Is causing us some problems.
01:22 And you might be tempted to get rid of it but we've got to combine the cross bar
01:25 with the a anyway as a compound path so all of the subpaths have to share the
01:29 same attriutes. So what you're better off doing is with
01:33 this anchor point selected. Just press the right arrow key a total of
01:37 three times. Assuming that you are nudging one point
01:40 at a time in order to hide that projecting cap from view, without
01:43 revealing any problems down here below. Because for example if you went to far
01:49 with your nudge, you'd end up producing this kind of effect here, but as long as
01:52 you stay somewhere around this area, you'll be just fine.
01:58 All right, now press the V key to switch to my black arrow tool, and I'll go ahead
02:01 and marquee these two path outlines to select them, and then I'll go up to the
02:05 object menu, choose Compound path, and choose Make.
02:09 Or you can press Ctrl-8, or Cmd-8 on the Mac, and that will ensure that those two
02:13 path outlines will behave as one. As you make further modifications to the artwork.
02:19 All right, I'll go ahead and zoom out once again, and as opposed to replaying those
02:23 very same operations on this A, I figure I might as well grab it and delete it,
02:27 and then go ahead and make a copy of this one by selecting it and shift-alt or
02:30 shift-option, dragging it Over to, the right hand side.
02:37 All right, so now notice, let's say these guys, are way off kilter, like so.
02:41 And we've got way too much space, in some areas, and way too little in others.
02:45 Well what you want to do, I've set things here, so that the N is a kind of anchor
02:49 As is that first M and the middle M as well.
02:53 And so we're going to distribute between those key points.
02:56 So I'll go ahead and marque these letters in order to select them.
03:01 So M I L I A N, that's it. Then I'll go ahead and zoom in so I can
03:05 see things a little better. And I'll go up to the Align icon, and you
03:09 want to make sure Align To is set to selection.
03:11 This is extremely important, because otherwise you'll get totally the wrong result.
03:16 And as opposed the obvious distribute option, which would be this guy right
03:19 there, Horizontal Distribute Center, which doesn't give you the right results
03:23 at all. And the problem is that the N is so much
03:26 thicker than, for example, the I that we end up distributing each of these path
03:30 outlines by it's center. And that makes a mess of things.
03:34 INstead what you want is distribute spacing.
03:36 So just go ahead and select this guy right there.
03:38 Horizontal distribute space and you get exactly the effect that you're looking for.
03:43 All right, now let's try the frist letters here by marquing the first m through what
03:47 is ultimately the last m in the middle of the work.
03:51 And then return to the align panel and go ahead and click on that horizontal
03:54 distribute space option again. And we'll end up making a mess of things.
03:59 What's happened here? Well, problem is I did not combine the X
04:01 into a single compound path, so Illustrator is treating it as two
04:04 independent paths. That's not what we want, so press Ctrl +
04:08 Z or Cmd + Z on a Mac to undo that change and then go ahead and marque the x like so.
04:14 In order to select both parts fit and return to the Object menu, choose
04:17 Compound path and choose Make in order to fuse it into a single path outline, at
04:21 least in so far as Illustrator is concerned.
04:26 And then go ahead and marquee the M through the M once again go up to a line
04:29 and click on distribute spacing in order to adjust a position of those various letters.
04:36 Now zoom out just a little bit again, so I can take in the entire word.
04:40 And now I want to mask things with yet another rectangle.
04:43 So press the m key in order to get the rectangle tool.
04:46 Of course, you could select it from the toolbox as well if you like.
04:49 And I'll drag from the second to last horizontal guide down to the very last
04:52 one and you want to make sure that you have a fair amount of room on the left
04:55 and right sides of the letters, like so, and then go ahead and release to select
04:59 all of those objects and then I'll switch back to my black arrow tool.
05:06 Which you can get by pressing the V key. I'll go ahead and marquee through these
05:09 various path outlines, all of which have green strokes in my case.
05:13 And then you want to go up to the object menu, choose clipping mask, and choose make.
05:18 And you will end up with this effect here.
05:20 Then you can click off the letters in order to deselect them.
05:23 I'll go ahead and expand open my m w m logo layer.
05:26 And I might as well rename this guy. And I'll call it First Name because that
05:30 obviously is my son's first name. And I'll press the F key, a couple of
05:34 times in order to switch to the full screen mode, and I'll go ahead and zoom
05:38 in as well. And I'll press Ctrl semi colon, or Cmd
05:41 semi colon on a Mac, in order to hide the guidelines.
05:45 And that friends, is how you create a custom personal logo.
05:48 All together from scratch, using a handful of precisely aligned schematic
05:53 path outlines with the help of smart guides here inside Illustrator.
05:59
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34. Working with Symbols
The benefits of using symbols
00:00 This chapter is about symbols. Which allow you to expedite the creation
00:04 of certain kinds of documents. For example, let's say you have a
00:08 document that contains repeated instances of a logo, or a design, or an ornament,
00:12 what have you. Why then save off that element as a
00:16 symbol, and then you can drag instances of the symbol into your document.
00:21 And that way if you decide to update the design of the original Symbol, then all
00:25 of those instances are going to update in kind.
00:28 Plus, you can take advantage of this thing called Nine-Slice Scaling which
00:32 allows you to Scale certain portions of a Symbol while leaving other regions fixed,
00:36 as you see here. And then, finally, as you may be aware,
00:41 Illustrator lacks master pages. But for certain kinds of documents,
00:45 symbols can be better, because you can replicate a logo or a design or a header,
00:49 for example, across multiple r ports. And change the position and the size of
00:55 those objects as much as you like. Here, let me show you exactly how Symbols work.
01:02
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How symbols and instances work
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how you to work with symbols, and I'll also show you
00:03 why they are such remarkable time savers. I'm looking at a kind of dimmed out map
00:09 of Yellowstone National Park. And you can see that I have a hand full
00:12 of these picnic areas that are represented by these picnic table icons.
00:17 Now, as opposed to collecting these paths into a group, for example and then
00:21 duplicating the group to new locations. What we're seeing is repeated instances
00:26 of a single symbol. And to confirm that's the case, I'll go
00:29 up to the window menu and choose the Symbols Command.
00:32 Or you can just click on this little Clover icon, over here in the panel Column.
00:37 And notice that we do indeed see the picnic area icon here inside the panel.
00:42 If you're working along with me, go ahead and click on that symbol, and then go out
00:45 to the symbols fly out menu and choose Select All Instances.
00:50 And that goes ahead and selects every one of the picnic table icons here inside the
00:54 document window. All right, now let's say you want to make a
00:57 modification to the table icon. There's two different ways to work, one
01:01 of which I consider the wrong way. I'll show you that up front because it's
01:05 very convenient, but it offers some downsides.
01:08 And then I'll show you my preferred way of working.
01:11 I'll start things off by clicking off the picnic tables to deselect them.
01:15 Then I'll double-click on any one of them, and notice that brings up an alert
01:18 message telling you that you're about to edit the symbol.
01:22 And any modifications you apply will affect every single instance in the document.
01:27 Now, if you don't want to see this alert in the future, you can turn on the Don't
01:29 Show Again check box, but I'm going to leave it off, just to make a point here.
01:34 And now I'll click OK, and notice that you enter the symbol isolation mode, so
01:37 you only have access to the picnic area symbol and nothing more.
01:42 Now, what I find confusing about this mode, is that you're seeing the symbol in
01:45 the context of the rest of the art work. So, you might be tempted to look at it
01:49 and say, well, obviously the picnic table is too big and it's in a wrong location,
01:52 so I've got to fix that first. So you might just go ahead and marquee
01:57 all the paths, because there's many independent paths at work here.
02:01 And then, switch to say the Scale tool, and go ahead and drag while pressing the
02:04 Shift key in order to scale the picnic table proportionately.
02:09 And then, I might press the Arrow keys a few times in order to nudge the table
02:12 into a better location. Now at this point, if you're satisfied
02:16 with your changes, then you'd want to exit the symbol isolation mode, and save
02:19 your changes, just by tapping the Escape key.
02:23 But you can see, because every one of the instances has been independently scaled,
02:26 as a result, all the tables end up getting smaller.
02:30 And it's quite the chore to undo this by the way, because you've got to press
02:33 Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on a Mac, several times in a row.
02:36 The first time you press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac, you don't actually undo your changes.
02:41 You just go back to the symbol isolation mode.
02:44 Then you've got to press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z repeatedly until you get back to the
02:48 original version of the table. And then, if you're lucky, you'll be able
02:53 to press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac to get return to the actual unmodified
02:56 version of the illustration. Or you may find that the keystroke
03:01 doesn't work, and you have to press the Escape key in order to escape the symbol
03:04 isolation mode once again. Either way, it's a pretty laborious process.
03:09 Compare that with merely double-clicking on the actual symbol definition here
03:13 inside the Symbols panel, in which case you'll see the symbol independently of
03:16 the rest of the artwork. So, it's not out of kilter in context in
03:21 other words. And notice that we don't get an alert
03:25 message either, which saves a step. All right, I'm going to go ahead and zoom
03:28 in on my artwork and make an authentic change this time around.
03:32 For starters, I want to change the color of the background, so I'll press the V
03:34 key to switch back to my Black Arrow tool.
03:37 And I'll go ahead and marquee around these shapes right here, because this
03:39 background comprises two independent shapes.
03:42 And then I'll go up to the Fill panel flyout menu here.
03:45 And I'll change the fill color to this swatch right here, C85MTINY100K10, in
03:50 order to produce this brighter background.
03:53 I'm also going to adjust the position of these benches, just by selecting each one
03:57 and pressing the Left Arrow key in the case of this guy, and the Right Arrow key
04:00 in the case of this one. And by the way, I've set my keyboard
04:04 increment to one point, which we can see, now that I've pressed Ctrl+K or Cmd+K on
04:08 a Mac, to bring up the preferences dialog box.
04:12 So, as a result, I've scooted each bench out one point.
04:15 All right now that I've spruced up the artwork, I'll go ahead and press the
04:19 Escape key in order to exit the symbol isolation mode and return to the document.
04:23 Now I can't really see what I'm doing here because I'm so far zoomed in, and
04:27 that's a function of having zoomed in inside the isolation mode.
04:31 So, I'll just go ahead and zoom out a few clicks here, by pressing Ctrl+minus, or
04:35 Cmd+minus on a Mac, and we end up with this effect right there.
04:40 So, I've been able to modify several icons at a time just by editing the
04:44 definition of a single symbol. And that friends is your first taste for
04:49 the power of working with symbols here inside Illustrator.
04:53
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Creating and naming symbols
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create and rename symbols.
00:04 If you have access to the exercise files, you'll find one called Photoshop shapes.ai.
00:09 Then if you bring up the symbols panel, you see it contains tons and tons of
00:13 symbols that I've acquired over the years from Photoshop's custom shape tool.
00:20 And for those of you who do not have access to this file, let me show you how
00:22 you can put one together for yourself. I'll go ahead and switch over to
00:26 Photoshop, then I'll drop down to the near bottom of the toolbox here, click
00:30 and hold on the shape tool and select the custom shape tool, and then what you want
00:33 to do is go up to the shape option here in the options bar.
00:40 And click on it and you'll see that you have a variety of different shapes that
00:43 you can choose from so for example I can go ahead and grab the Florida Lee if I
00:46 wanted to and then just drag inside of my image like so and if you want to
00:49 constrain the proportions of the artwork so you don't end up stretching it.
00:56 Then you press and hold the Shift key until you finish drawing the shape.
01:00 Now that might seem like a cool trinket, but A it's something that's missing from
01:03 Illustrator, and B you have access to a lot more artwork than these simple shapes here.
01:09 And you can get to everything that ships along with Photoshop by clicking in this
01:13 little gear icon and choosing All from the menu.
01:17 That's going to go ahead and replace everything that's already here, so
01:20 instead of clicking append, Just go ahead and click on the OK button and you'll see
01:24 this very long list of shapes, like so. And then I might grab one, such as Crown 2.
01:31 And I'll go ahead and press the Esc key to hide that panel, and then I'll drop
01:34 the crown next door to the fleur-de-lis while pressing the shift key.
01:39 To get this artwork over to Illustrator, you want to get the black arrow tool,
01:42 which is the path selectino tool, you can also get to it by pressing the A key.
01:47 And then, if we want to select both shapes here, then I'll go ahead and click
01:50 this guy, the crown, because currently these objects are on different shape
01:53 layers, and I'll press Ctrl + X or Cmd + X on a Mac in order to cut that shape,
01:56 then I'll go ahead and click on the Fleur-de-lis for a moment here just to
01:59 make sure it's selected, and I'll press Ctrl + V or Cmd + V on a Mac.
02:06 And notice, that places the two shapes on the same shape layer.
02:09 Which is essential, if you want to select a both and then you can Shift + Click on
02:12 the Fleur-de-lis in order to select it as well, and then you want to press Ctrl + K
02:16 or Cmd + K on the Mac, to bring up the preferences dialog box.
02:21 I normally recommend that people turn this option right here off, export
02:24 clipboard, cause when you are copying big image files it can present a problem.
02:29 But in our case we will want export clipboard to be turned on as by default.
02:33 So, I'll just go ahead and click the canel button.
02:35 And then, go to the edit menu and choose a copy command, or you can press Ctrl + C
02:39 or Cmd + C on the Mac. Now go ahead and switch back over to Illustrator.
02:44 And at this point, it's just a matter of going up to the edit menu and choosing
02:47 the paste command. Or you can press Ctrl + V or Cmd + V on
02:50 the Mac. Here in the paste options dialog box, you
02:54 want to go ahead and select compound path, which is going to give you simple
02:57 shapes, not really faster ones, and then click OK.
03:01 And you will end up with these 2 unfilled shapes like so.
03:05 Just to separate them from the other clutter in the background, I'll go ahead
03:08 and change their filter color to, lets say, red.
03:12 Should make them nice and garish on screen.
03:13 And also notice that they've automatically been combined into a single
03:16 group, which we can see, over here in the far left side of the control panel.
03:21 So, to get rid of that group, go up to the object menu and choose the N group
03:24 command, or press Ctrl + Shift + G or Cmd + Shift + G on a Mac.
03:28 Because, otherwise, we wouldn't be able to define these objects independently of
03:31 each other. And now we can select each object
03:33 independently, which is all together essential, of course, for defining
03:37 independent symbols. Anyway, I've already put these guys into
03:42 this document with the exception of these two down here.
03:46 The tricycle, which no longer ships along with Photoshop, but did once upon a time.
03:50 And then the world wide web next door. So I'll go ahead and delete the red
03:54 shapes from view and I'll show you two ways to save a shape at as a symbol.
03:59 One is to put the new symbol in a very specific location.
04:02 I'll go ahead and increase the size of my panel here.
04:04 And let's say I want to put this tricycle right next store to the bike.
04:08 Well then I'll go ahead and drag it and drop it into place, and you can see that
04:12 allows to specify exactly where that symbol goes, and then release, and up
04:15 comes the symbol options dialog box, and actually you want to name your symbol,
04:19 I'll just call mine tricycle, and in most cases that all you need to do, but I will
04:22 briefly explain what's going on with the rest of the options Type is specifically
04:26 for working with Flash Professional. A movie clip just goes ahead and gives
04:34 the symbol a time code, which is a more flexible way to work.
04:37 But if you're working just inside of Illustrator, then, this option is meaningless.
04:42 Next door we've got registration, which, where Illustrator is concerned affects
04:45 the default location of the transformation origin.
04:49 When you're scaling or rotating a symbol. And I'll show you what that looks like in
04:52 a future movie. I'll also explain nine slice scaling in a
04:55 future movie. And finally, a line and pixel grid is
04:59 going to go ahead and align the perpendicular segments associated with a
05:02 symbol, to the pixel grid. Which is useful if you're going to the web.
05:07 If you're creating Web art. But if you're not creating web art, or
05:10 you have circular or curving objects, then it's more of a pain in the neck than
05:13 anything else. So I'll go ahead and leave it off, and
05:17 then I'll click OK. And notice that goes ahead and turns the
05:20 tricycle into an instance and we can see the registration mark right there, in the
05:24 center of the object. All right, what if you don't want to drop
05:28 an object to a specific location. Well in that case, let's say you want it
05:31 to appear at the end of the list. Then you go ahead and cilck on you paths
05:35 out here on the document window. And you click on the little page icon on
05:38 the bottom of the symbols pannels. Well, and I'll just go ahead and name
05:42 this guy World Wide Web, and then click OK.
05:45 In order to save it off right there at the bottom of the panel, and turn the
05:49 original object into an instance of that symbol.
05:54 Finally, let's say you need to give a symbol a new name.
05:56 For example, if I click off this symbol to deselect it, you'll notice in this
06:00 row, I've got a symbol called Boom 1 and another called Boom 2.
06:04 But I neglected to name this one next door, so it's just called New Symbol 164.
06:09 If you want to change the name of the symbol, don't double-click on it because
06:12 that's how you change the definition of a symbol, that's how you edit it.
06:17 To change it's name, you drop down to this little dialog box icon at the bottom
06:20 of the panel and click on it. And then I'll just go ahead and call this
06:25 guy sculpted star, and click OK. In order to modify it's name and you can
06:30 see that the new name now appears as a tip here inside the Symbols panel.
06:35 And that's how you create a new symbol, as well as rename an existing one here
06:40 inside Illustrator.
06:42
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Introducing 9-slice scaling
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to take advantage of Nine-Slice Scaling which
00:04 despite its wonky name, is a really great feature that allows you to define exactly
00:08 which portions of a Symbol Scale. So that you can Stretch a Symbol and have
00:14 certain regions stay fixed in size. And it's such a great feature that you
00:18 may find it helpful even when you're not interested in replicating artwork.
00:23 So the first thing I'm going to do is go up to the File menu and choose the New
00:26 Command or you can press Ctrl N or Cmd N on the Mac.
00:29 And you want to set the profile to print in order to see the specific symbols that
00:33 I'm interested in showing you here. And then you can leave the other options
00:37 set to their defaults and click OK. Then go ahead and bring up the symbols
00:42 panel, and you'll see the symbols somewhere along the top here, called Trim
00:45 Marks with 9 Slice. Go ahead and click on it to select it.
00:49 And then, to introduce the symbol into the artwork, you can drag and drop it,
00:52 but that will place the symbol at a specific location inside the document.
00:56 I just want to go ahead and center in the darn thing.
00:58 So I'm going to click on this little icon play symbol instance, and that will place
01:01 the symbol right there, at the center. All right, now I'll hide the symbols panel.
01:06 And I'll switch over to my Scale tool, which you can also get by pressing the S
01:10 key, and notice if I now drag in order to scale my artwork, that none of the trim
01:13 marks or registration marks, or any of the other printer marks, for that matter, scale.
01:21 They all remain fixed in size. It's just this empty region in the center
01:24 That's growing larger. Now that's only going to hold up to a
01:27 point by the way. If I were to take the size of the artwork
01:30 down too small, then I'd end up squishing the art because at a certain point that's
01:34 going to happen. But as long as you make the symbol larger
01:38 then Illustrator will go ahead and precisely stretch your artwork.
01:42 All right. So, how do we go about creating such a thing?
01:44 Well, I'll go ahead and switch back to my sample file and if I press Shift>Pg Dn,
01:47 you'll see that I have a second art board in place.
01:51 So, let's say I'm interested in creating a symbol where just the central shaft of
01:55 this arrow stretches and this blue tip art down below it is allowed to stretch
01:58 both horizontally and vertically. Well then I go ahead and switch back to
02:04 my black arrow tool, and marquee all these objects in order to select them.
02:08 And then I'll bring up my symbols panel once again, and I'll go ahead and create
02:12 a new symbol at the end of the list by clicking on the little page icon, and
02:15 I'll call this arrow and tip for now. And the next thing you want to do is set
02:21 a registration point, which will define a default transformation origin when you go
02:25 to scale the object. I'm going to set mine inthe top left
02:29 corner like so. And then you want to turn on Enable
02:32 guides for nine slides scaling and click OK.
02:36 And then it goes ahead and adds a new symbol to the bottom of the list, and it
02:39 also turns my original artwork into an instance.
02:42 Notice that cross right there. By default if I hadn't changed the
02:45 registration position, it'd be in the center.
02:47 But now it's in the upper left hand corner indicating once again that's where
02:51 we'll see the default position for the transformation origin.
02:56 All right, I'll go ahead and hide the symbols panel.
02:57 And then, I'll switch over to the Scale tool.
03:00 And notice whereas if we were editing a standard piece of art, a standard path
03:03 outline, that kind of thing, we'd see that origin target right there in the
03:06 center, but instead it's located in the top-left corner.
03:10 You can, of course, move it to a different location if you want to, but
03:13 that just ends up defining the default. Now I'll go ahead and drag with my Scale
03:18 tool in order to stretch the artwork. And you can see that it doesn't stretch
03:23 how it normally would. Which is to say we're not making the art
03:27 in its entirety wider, or necessarily taller, rather we are selectively
03:30 stretching the object. The problem is, we're not doing so in any
03:35 way we naturally want to. So to fix things what you want to do is
03:39 press the V key to return to the black arrow tool.
03:42 And then double-click some place on the artwork.
03:45 And by the way, when you're modifying an instance inside of Illustrator, you don't
03:49 want to try to drag the bounding box, that is the frame around the object,
03:52 because that's not going to work. You want to click somewhere on an actual
03:57 path alloy, and then you can drag that path to a different location.
04:01 So even though you don't see all the selection (INAUDIBLE) all around those
04:05 edges, they still exist. Anyway, to edit the artwork, go ahead and
04:09 double-click on it. If you see the alert message just go
04:12 ahead and click OK, and, or to switch to this view here, and notice that we are
04:15 now seeing some guides that illustrator automatically setup for me.
04:21 That define how the artwork will stretch. Coming to terms with how to use these
04:25 guides however can be a little tricky. So I'll explain how that works in the
04:29 next movie.
04:31
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Customizing the effects of 9-slice scaling
00:00 All right, just for the sake of a reminder here.
00:02 This is the badly stretched version of the arrow so far.
00:05 In this movie, I'm going to show you how to adjust the 9-Slice scaling guides in
00:09 order to achieve much better results. And we'll see a couple of examples.
00:13 First thing you want to do is double-click somewhere on the arrow art.
00:16 And make sure, by the way, that you can see a little square underneath your arrow cursor.
00:21 That'll tell you that you're in the right location.
00:23 If you get the alert message, just go ahead and click OK in order to enter the
00:27 Symbol Isolation mode. I'm going to go ahead and zoom in so that
00:30 I can see the artwork more closely. Now notice that we have a collection of
00:34 four guides in all, two horizontal and two vertical.
00:38 And if you're still kind of wondering what the nine slices are all about, now
00:40 you can see them. So we've got these four guides cutting
00:44 our picture into nine pieces at all, three up, three in the middle, and three down.
00:50 The central area here is going to stretch like crazy, and then the areas above and
00:53 below, they'll stretch horizontally. And the areas to the left and right will
00:58 stretch vertically. Each one of the corner quadrants will not
01:02 stretch at all. And so that's why we're having this break
01:05 in the arrow, where it goes from not stretching at all, to all of a sudden
01:08 stretching vertically, and then we've got a horizontal problem over here.
01:13 We know we want the shaft of the arrow to stretch.
01:15 So, let's go ahead and move these guys inward, both the vertical guides, until
01:19 we're strictly inside this perpendicular region.
01:23 And that's what 9-slice scaling is all about.
01:26 You just stretch the perpendicular stuff and nothing more.
01:29 Now we need to look for an area that can stretch vertically, and the only area
01:32 that falls into that category, because we need vertical lines, are the edges of the
01:36 blue tip bar. So go ahead and drag this guide down,
01:40 like so. You don't want to go so far down that you
01:42 start hitting the rounded corner. That would be a problem.
01:45 Move it up to about there, and then take this guide down into the vertical region
01:50 as well. And that way the central portion of the
01:54 blue tip bar, that's going to stretch in both directions.
01:57 And then this region here between the two vertical guides, that will stretch
02:00 horizontally, and the area between the two horizontal guides will stretch vertically.
02:05 Now you can go ahead and press the Escape key, and you'll see that Illustrator goes
02:08 ahead and stretches the artwork properly from this point on.
02:13 All right, now let's say we want to turn the arrow by itself into a symbol and we
02:16 just want it to stretch horizontally, this region right here, but we'd rather
02:20 not see any portion of the artwork stretch vertically.
02:24 Well as near as we can get, where this art is concerned, is to allow just the
02:27 shaft of the arrow to stretch horizontally.
02:30 But the entire artwork will have to stretch vertically.
02:33 And let me show you what that looks like. I'll go ahead and marquee this bottom
02:37 arrow here, in order to select all of it. Then I'll bring up the Symbol panel, and
02:41 I'll click on the little page icon in order to create a new symbol, and I'll
02:45 call this guy Arrow Only. And then I'll turn on Enable Guides for
02:49 9-slice scaling. And I'll select this center point right
02:53 there, along the left hand side. Then click OK.
02:57 Now notice if I grab my scale tool. And I just go ahead and drag from the tip
03:01 of the arrow head, because all I want to do is apply a horizontal stretch, I end
03:05 up stretching the entire arrow quite badly.
03:09 So of course, I need to adjust my guides. I'll do so by pressing the V key to
03:13 switch to the black arrow tool, and then I'll double-click on my artwork, click OK
03:16 in response to the alert message and drag these guys over here.
03:22 What I really like to see happen is that this area between the vertical guides,
03:25 that'll stretch horizontally, but I don't want anything to stretch vertically so
03:28 I'll just go ahead and move both the horizontal guides upwards.
03:33 So ideally, this region right there would stretch in both directions, this area
03:37 would just stretch horizontally, and nothing would stretch vertically.
03:42 However, if I go ahead and press the Esc key in order to accept that change, you
03:45 can see that the entire art work is now stretching.
03:48 And that's because Illustrator just doesn't like it if there's an empty
03:51 region right in the center. So what you have to do instead is compromise.
03:56 So I'll double-click on the arrow again, click OK in response to the alert message.
04:00 Go ahead and drag this down, this bottom horizontal guide all the way down.
04:06 Drag this one to about here, just so that the entire arrow is inside of the two
04:10 horizontal guides. And of course the vertical guides only
04:14 include the brown shaft right there. Then go ahead and press the Esc key, in
04:18 order to accept that change. And you can see now I end up stretching
04:21 the proper portion of the arrow. However, were I to select the arrow once
04:25 again, press the S key to switch to the scale tool and then drag down, like so,
04:29 in order to scale the arrow vertically, you can see that it scales vertically
04:33 throughout the entire artwork. I don't want that, of course, so I'll go
04:38 ahead and press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on the Mac, to undo that change.
04:41 And I'm going to drag the arrow back over here.
04:44 So, we have some artwork that looks, more or less, like our original.
04:49 Because I want to show you, one more side element, that's interesting to note,
04:52 where 9-slice scaling is concerned. I'll press the V key, to switch to the
04:56 black arrow tool, and then I'll go ahead and take this tip bar right here, and
04:59 I'll save that off as a separate symbol, just so that I have it.
05:04 And I'll go ahead and call this guy Blue Tip Bar.
05:06 And I'll set the registration to the same thing it is for the arrow, and I'll turn
05:10 on Enable Guides for 9-slice scaling. And I'll click OK, and then I'll double
05:15 click any artwork and click OK in response to the alert message.
05:19 By now, I should have gone ahead and said don't show again, but maybe I will in the future.
05:23 In the meantime, I'll go ahead and drag these guys up like so.
05:25 And otherwise, this region is just fine. And now I'll press the Esc key in order
05:30 to accept that change. And now we have a symbol right here that
05:34 will scale just like I want it to. If I press the S key in order to switch
05:38 to the scale tool, you can see that no matter how much I scale this artwork, I'm
05:41 not harming the rounded corners at all. All right, I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z,
05:45 Cmd+Z on a Mac, to undo that change. I can now take both of these symbols and
05:49 turn them into another symbol if I like. So I'll press the V key, Shift-click on
05:54 the arrow instance here, and now I'll drag both instances into the Symbols panel.
06:00 And I'll call this guy Two Symbols because ultimately that's what it is.
06:04 I'll set the registration to the same thing.
06:06 I'll turn on Enable Guides for 9-slice scaling.
06:09 And I'll go ahead and click OK. And now notice when I scale the artwork,
06:12 it just scales proportionally. And there's nothing you can do about it.
06:17 I can press the V key to switch back to the black arrow tool.
06:20 Double-click somewhere on the artwork. Turn on the Don't Show Again check box.
06:24 By now I should do it. Click OK.
06:26 And then I could set these guys anywhere I want them to be, like, I'll set them
06:29 where they should be, right here for the vertical guides, and then down here for
06:33 the horizontal guides. I'll go ahead and drag this one down, and
06:37 drag this one down as well, and you can stretch a teeny tiny area, by the way, if
06:40 you want to. But I'll just set things the way I've had
06:43 them before, and then I'll press the Esc key, and you can see it doesn't have any effect.
06:49 So, if you're going to take advantage of 9-slice scaling, you've got to be working
06:52 from original artwork. You can't be doing something clever like
06:56 creating symbols from other symbols. And that, friends, is how you adjust the
07:01 guides for 9-slice scaling, here inside Illustrator.
07:05
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Acquiring, trading, and previewing symbols
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to acquire symbols and trade them between documents.
00:04 I'll also show you the best way for previewing symbols inside Illustrator.
00:08 I have open this document called 468Symbols.ai, and as you might imagine,
00:12 were you to bring up the symbols panel, it contains a total of 468 symbols that
00:16 have shipped along with Illustrator over the years.
00:22 Now it's not always easy to make out what's going on with these symbols from
00:25 their tiny little thumbnails. And while you can switch to different
00:29 views, such as the small list view, that barely shows you any thumbnail at all, or
00:33 the larger list view. You can't get bigger thumbnails than
00:37 you're seeing in the standard thumbnail view.
00:40 Which is kind of a tragedy, because it would be nice to see these things in a
00:43 little more detail. But it is possible to get a better view
00:46 of things. All you need to do is just double-click
00:49 on one of these symbols, and that's going to show you the symbol at any old size
00:52 you want to see it, here inside the document window.
00:57 So I'll just go ahead and zoom in on this 3D at sign, which is this purple guy
01:00 right there, the at symbol. And if you like, at this point, you could
01:05 change it around. Now, this is a true 3D object inside of Illustrator.
01:09 We'll be discussing 3D, in detail, in a future chapter.
01:12 But for now I'm just going to select the text and change its color to say, this
01:16 shade of red, right here, inside the swatches panel.
01:19 And that goes ahead and updates the artwork, and then if I press the Escape
01:23 key, I can see that the symbol is updated here inside the symbols panel.
01:28 I'll go and scroll down my list a little bit, which you can do with the scroll
01:30 wheel, by the way as long as you're hovered over the symbols panel.
01:34 And I'll double-click on this guy, tiki idol.
01:36 And then if you decide you want to check out something else, such as this little
01:39 television screen here, then just double click on it.
01:43 You don't have to escape out and go back, you can just double-click, and you can
01:46 save your modifications that way as well. Now check out down here at the bottom of
01:51 the list. We have these vector pack collections,
01:53 which are just outstanding. I'll double-click on Florid Vector Pack
01:57 08, and you can see what I'm talking about, just outstanding little pieces of
02:01 artwork here. This one's 13, and then we've got these
02:05 Regal packs as well. For example, this is Regal Vector pack
02:08 number 16. But there is one collection that I failed
02:11 to add to this list so far. And let me show you what it looks like,
02:14 and how to add it to this collection as well, or any other illustration you like.
02:19 I'll go ahead and click on this little bookshelf icon, in the lower left corner
02:21 of the panel. And I'll choose this guy right there,
02:25 Grime Vector Pack. Which brings up this collection of objects.
02:28 Now if I want to see one of these in greater detail, I can't just double-click
02:32 on it. Clicking on one of these items in these
02:35 pop up panels. Just goes ahead and adds that symbol to
02:39 the symbols panel. And then if you want to add a few more,
02:42 then just go ahead and click on one, and, and Shift click on another.
02:46 You'll see that the first one's been added right there, but you can just drag
02:49 over all the selected items, in order to merely add the ones that haven't been
02:53 added so far. Then at this point you would double-click
02:57 on one of the items in the symbols panel, in order to preview its appearance.
03:01 I'm going to go ahead and add a few more here including this guy, this guy, and
03:05 this guy right there. Its not necessary to add these two,
03:08 because they already appear at the top of the symbols panel.
03:12 Instead, just go ahead and grab these guys right there, and do a drag and drop
03:16 in order to fill things out. And then, I'll close the panel to hide it.
03:21 So that's all there is to bringing over symbols from libraries that ship along
03:24 with Illustrator. And as you can see, there's many there,
03:28 but just about all of them are to some extent represented here inside this document.
03:34 Well what if you've got another document, and you want to be able to load all of
03:37 these symbols over, as well as all the symbols from yet another document.
03:42 Well the easiest way to work, is to click on the little bookshelf icon, and then
03:45 choose the save symbols command. It just saves a standard AI document, by
03:49 the way, but it saves it to a special location that you can easily access later.
03:54 And it doesn't include any of the artwork, it just includes the contents of
03:57 the symbols panel. And I'll go ahead and call this 480,
04:01 because I added 12, AI symbols, because these are symbols that have shipped with
04:04 Illustrator over time, and then I'll click the save button.
04:09 And now I'm going to switch over to that updated Photoshop shape documents and
04:12 save on its symbols as well, by once again clicking on the bookshelf icon, and
04:16 choosing the save symbols command. And this one, I'll call 379 PS shapes,
04:21 because after all, that's what it is. And then, I'll click the save button.
04:27 So, in other words, you now, if have access to my exercise files, have a ton
04:30 of symbols to work with. Now I'll switch over to this document
04:34 that just contains the six print default symbols.
04:37 Click on the bookshelf icon, and choose user defined.
04:40 And I might as well start with 379 PS shapes, because after all, it's listed first.
04:45 And then that item will come up in its own panel, and you can click on the very
04:48 first of the symbols, scroll your way down, and then Shift click on the last one.
04:53 And then go ahead and drag and drop them into place.
04:56 Now it is going to take a few moments for that operation to occur, and by the way
04:59 it's going to slow down the performance of your save operation when you go to
05:02 save this document. But it is very possible to move these
05:06 things around. So now I'll go ahead and choose user
05:09 defined, and 480 AI symbols. Go ahead and increase the size of this sub-panel.
05:14 And by the way, they may end up appearing right next to each other, if you're
05:17 following along with me. And I'll go ahead and click on this guy,
05:21 and then Shift click on the last of them, and scroll down to the bottom, I would think.
05:27 And then let's go ahead and drag them and drop them.
05:29 And I just want to make sure that the blue item here appears in the right location.
05:34 If not, then I would have to drag it inside the panel.
05:37 Because you can rearrange these symbol thumbnails as much as you want.
05:40 And that first symbol is appearing at the top of the list, and that's because it's
05:43 one of the six defaults. All right, I'll go ahead and scroll down to
05:46 the bottom. And it looks now like we've got just
05:49 about every symbol we could possibly want.
05:52 At least where the default symbols are concerned.
05:54 Not to mention, you now know how to acquire symbols.
05:57 As well as how to trade them between documents.
06:00 And preview them as large as you want here inside Illustrator.
06:04
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Duplicating and replacing symbol instances
00:00 Another great thing about symbols is they help to make up for the fact that
00:03 Illustrator lacks master pages. So, if you want to replicate text, or a
00:07 logo on a page by page basis, then symbols are the way to go.
00:12 Because that way, you can modify the symbol, and update all the pages automatically.
00:18 And I'm going to show you how things work, using this very basic book cover design.
00:22 So, we've got the front cover over here on the right hand side, and then the
00:25 spine, and the back cover on the left. And you can see that the title, and the
00:29 author name, and the publisher, and so forth are duplicated on every one of the
00:32 art boards. I'm going to start things off in this
00:36 movie, by showing you how to duplicate and replace symbols.
00:40 In order to create this sequence of page icons that make up the artwork for the
00:44 front cover of the book. So, we'll start off inside this document
00:48 here, and I'm going to zoom in on the front cover.
00:51 Which is the third art board, the one on the right.
00:54 And then I'll press shift tab to bring back my right side panels, and also bring
00:58 up my symbols panel like so. And I'll go ahead and marquee all the
01:01 elements that make up this little page icon.
01:04 And then I'll click on the little page icon, at the bottom of the symbols panel.
01:08 And I'll call this guy page. And then I'll click okay in order to
01:11 create that new symbol. And you can see as usual, that turns the
01:15 original artwork into an instance. All right, now let's go ahead and duplicate
01:20 the symbol a few times, by double clicking on the black Arrow tool icon, at
01:23 the top of the toolbox. And I'm going to change the horizontal
01:27 position value to 78, and the vertical value to zero, and then click on the copy
01:30 button in order to create a copy of that page.
01:34 Now, assuming that your keyboard increment is set to one point, which you
01:37 can confirm by pressing Control-K, or Command-K on a Mac, and there's my
01:40 keyboard increment of one point right there.
01:43 I'll go ahead and cancel out. Then press Shift-Alt-Up Arrow, or
01:47 Shift-Option-Up Arrow on a Mac, in order to create a duplicate of that page icon,
01:51 10 points up. And then press Shift-Right Arrow, in
01:55 order to move it to the right. All right, I'm going to go ahead and scoot
01:59 my art over a little bit. And then I'll marque both of these pages here.
02:03 And once again double-click on the black Arrow too icon, at the top of the toolbox.
02:07 And this time I'm going to change the horizontal value to 88 points, because we
02:10 went ahead and added 10 points for that extra page.
02:13 And then I'll click on the copy button, in order to create another copy of those pages.
02:17 And then, I'll go ahead and press Control-D, or Command-D on a Mac in order
02:21 to duplicate the pages. And the idea in case you're wondering
02:25 what I'm up to here, is we've got a single page icon over on the left hand side.
02:30 Then we've got the universal symbol for a multipage document.
02:34 I want this third set of icons to represent an ebook, so an electronic document.
02:38 And then the final one should represent a clipboard.
02:41 So, I'm going to start with this final one.
02:43 I'll go ahead and click on the background page, the lower of the two.
02:47 And I'll go up to the control panel, and you can see that there's this option
02:50 called replace. And if you click the down pointing
02:53 arrowhead, you will see the list of the symbols included along with the document.
02:57 Including this one right here clipboard, which I've created in advance.
03:01 Go ahead and click on it, in order to replace one symbol with the other.
03:04 And then you can hide, that sub panel. Now, shift-click on the forward page, and
03:10 then click on it again. You don't need to shift-click this time,
03:13 just click on it. In order to make it the key object.
03:16 And then click on the word align, in the control panel, and click horizontal align
03:20 center, which will do exactly what we want it to do.
03:23 And then go ahead and try a vertical align center.
03:26 Although it's not going to turn out to be the right option, because, after all
03:29 we've got this tab at the top of the clipboard that's making a mess of things.
03:33 So, what we want to do instead is shift-click on the page in order to
03:37 deselect it. And then go ahead and shift-click on this
03:40 background page, the third one right here, in order to select it, and click on
03:44 it again to make it the key object, like so.
03:48 And click on the word align up here in the control panel and finally, click on
03:51 vertical align bottom, and that'll go ahead and scoot that clipboard up.
03:56 All right, now we want to add the little e-publishing symbol, and I've created
03:59 that once again in advance as a symbol. To deploy it, go ahead and click on this
04:04 page right here. And then press Shift-Alt-Right Arrow, to
04:08 make a copy of it 10 points to the right. That would be Shift-Option-Right Arrow on
04:12 the Mac. And then press Shift-Down Arrow, in order
04:15 to nudge it down a little bit. And that will just be a place holder for
04:18 our esymbol, which we'll now introduce by clicking on the little down pointing arrowhead.
04:23 Associated with the replace option, and then clicking on the electronics symbol
04:27 in order to produce this effect here. All right now I'm going to press Shift-Down
04:31 arrow three times in a row, followed by Shift-Right Arrow, and then I'll press
04:35 the Up arrow key a couple of times in order to nudge that guy into the desired position.
04:41 Finally, let's say I'm not very happy with this little corner design here
04:44 that's associated with the various page Icons.
04:47 Then I'll just go ahead and double-click on any one of the pages, it doesn't
04:51 matter which one. They're all instances of the exact same symbol.
04:56 And then, I'll select this corner wedge like so, and I'll press shift-x in order
04:59 to swap the fill and stroke attributes. So that we no longer have any fill
05:04 whatsoever, but we do have a black stroke.
05:06 And I'll change the line weight value to four points.
05:09 And then I'll press the A key, to switch to the white Arrow tool.
05:12 I'll click off the shape to deselect it. And you can see that we have this
05:16 unfortunate miter corners, that are ruining the effect.
05:19 To get rid of them, just click on this segment right there, in order to select it.
05:24 That is, the diagonal segment. And then press the Back Space key, or the
05:27 Delete key on a Mac. In order to get rid of the segment as
05:30 well the the miter joints. Now you can press the escape key to exit
05:34 the symbol isolation mode. And that friends is how you duplicate,
05:38 replace, and apply further modifications to a symbol, here inside Illustrator.
05:45
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Using symbols to simulate master pages
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how we can use symbols as substitutes for master pages.
00:05 Now in case you're not familiar with them, a master page is a page where you
00:08 can put objects that you want to replicate from one page to a next.
00:12 You have master pages in, for example, InDesign, but you don't have them inside Illustrator.
00:18 And while master pages are very convenient, they're designed for
00:21 documents with consistent page sizes. Which means they don't lend themselves
00:25 very well to cover designs, like the one here.
00:28 Because after all, the spine is so much slimmer than the front and back cover.
00:32 Also, where cover design is concerned, and this goes for a box design or any
00:36 other sort of product design as well. You don't necessarily want the objects
00:41 repeated at the same positions. So, for example, I've already turned the
00:45 title of the book into a symbol, and it appears higher on the back cover than it
00:48 does on the front cover, and it's rotated on the spine.
00:52 We're going to do the same thing for the publisher, as well as the publisher's
00:56 logo, and for the author, whose name I don't know yet, and I'll have to just
00:59 drop that in later. So I'll start things off by clicking on
01:04 the author name with the black arrow tool.
01:06 Then I'll bring up the Symbols panel, and then I'll click on the little page icon,
01:10 and I'll call this symbol author, actually, and then click okay.
01:14 And now, I'll go ahead and duplicate the author name by Alt dragging it, or Option
01:18 dragging it on the Mac, and I'm also pressing the Shift key as I drag.
01:23 I'll go ahead and drop that into place on the back cover, so that it's aligned with
01:26 the right hand side of the art board. And then I'll press Shift left arrow
01:31 three times in a row in order to nudge it 30 points to the left.
01:35 All right, let's make another copy of the author name, on the spine this time.
01:39 And then I'll double-click on the Rotate tool.
01:41 And we want to change the angle value to negative 90 degrees.
01:45 And then I'll click OK, and I'll press the V key to switch back to my black
01:48 arrow tool. I'll just drag this name up and to the
01:51 right just a little bit, like so. All right, now let's do something similar
01:55 with the name of the publisher, although I'm going to do this as a combination of
01:58 two symbols this time, just to keep the logo and the publisher name separate from
02:02 each other. So I'll select the publishers name first
02:06 and then click on the little page icon. Call this symbol Publisher, and then
02:10 press the Enter or Return key. And then I'll go ahead and grab the logo
02:14 this time around, click on the little page icon, call this guy Logo, and then
02:17 I'll marquee both of these items. Click on the little page icon, so that
02:22 we're making a symbol that's based on two other symbols, and I'll just call it Pub
02:26 & Logo, or something like that, and click OK.
02:30 All right, now let's go ahead and duplicate these guys.
02:33 First of all, I'm going to take it to the back cover here, by Alt dragging or
02:36 Option dragging the object to about this location here, and maybe nudge it over to
02:39 the right just a little bit. And then I'll Alt drag or Option drag it
02:44 to the spine. Double-click on Rotate tool once again to
02:48 rotate the item negative 90 degrees. Click OK.
02:51 And then I'll double-click on a Scale tool, and I'll take the uniform value
02:55 down to 60% and click OK. Now let's just go ahead and nudge that
02:59 guy into a better location, such as the one you see right there.
03:02 And I'm just eyeballing things this time around.
03:05 Now let's say we need to make some modifications as surely we do.
03:08 First of all, I found out the author's name.
03:10 So let's go ahead and scoot over to the first occurrence, although it doesn't
03:13 matter which one you edit. Press the V key to switch to the black
03:17 arrow tool and double-click on the text to enter the Symbol Isolation mode.
03:22 And then I'll go ahead and press the T key to switch to the Type tool, click
03:25 inside the type, press Ctrl+A, or Cmd+A on a Mac, to select all of it, and I'll
03:28 change this text to Dorothy Turner. I don't know her, I just found out she's
03:34 the author. And then I'll press the Escape key a
03:37 couple of times in a row in order to update all occurrences of Dorothy's name,
03:41 across not only the front cover of the book, but the spine and back cover as well.
03:48 All right, now I'm told that the logo shouldn't be this color.
03:50 So I'll double-click on this Publisher object here in order to once again enter
03:53 the Symbol Isolation mode. But notice that I'm not deep enough.
03:57 I'm looking at the Pub & Logo symbol, but I need to be looking at the Logo symbol
04:01 independently so I double-click again on it.
04:04 So, now notice I'm looking at the Logo element inside Pub & Logo, and I'll go
04:07 ahead and marquee it. And it occurs to me that I've kind of
04:10 made a mistake here (LAUGH) I've gone ahead and turned one symbol
04:13 into another. Ribbon was already a symbol that's
04:16 included along with Illustrator. So, whatever, I'll just go ahead and
04:20 click on it again in order to modify this element independently.
04:25 And then I'll go ahead and marquee the object.
04:27 So I suppose there's some use to the fact I created a symbol inside of a symbol,
04:30 because after all, one is a scale version of the other.
04:34 But in any case, now I'm modifying the original path outlines.
04:38 And so I'll go up to the control panel, click on the second color swatch in, and
04:41 change it to this shade of blue, C85 M50 Y0 K0.
04:45 And then I'll just go ahead and press the Esc key just once, in order to escape all
04:49 the way out of the Symbol Edit mode. And that goes ahead and updates all
04:55 versions of the publisher's logo as you see here.
04:59 All right, finally, I'm going to go ahead and add a registered trademark to the
05:03 name of the press. So I'll go ahead and zoom in.
05:06 Double-click on the name like so. Double-click again in order to gain
05:09 access to the Type. Press the T key in order to get my Type tool.
05:14 Click after the final S in Press. And then I'll go up to the Type menu and
05:18 choose Glyphs in order to bring up the big Glyphs panel.
05:22 If you loaded my D Keys, you've got a keyboard shortcut of mash-your-fist G.
05:25 And once the Glyphs panel comes up onscreen, right after the copyright
05:28 symbol is the registered trademark symbol.
05:31 Notice right there. Just go ahead and double-click on it, in
05:33 order to add it to the text, and then you can hide the Glyphs panel.
05:37 After all, it takes up a ridiculous amount of screen space.
05:40 And then go ahead and select the registered trademark, if you're working
05:43 along with me. Bring up the Character panel, which you
05:45 can get by pressing Ctrl+T or Cmd+T on the Mac.
05:48 And let's go ahead and change the size value to 10 points and I also want the
05:52 baseline shift to be 7.5. I just prefer a smaller registered
05:56 trademark than the default. And then you want to click between the S
06:00 and the registered trademark, and let's reduce the kerning, this value right
06:04 here, to -100, like so, in order to produce this effect.
06:09 Then you can hide the character panel. Press the Esc key in order to edit the
06:12 Text Edit mode, and then press the Esc key again in order to exit the Symbol
06:16 Isolation mode. And if you zoom out, which I've done here
06:20 by pressing Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on a Mac, you can see that all the text is updated
06:23 from one art board to another. The only thing I'm not happy with is the
06:28 vertical placement of the publisher's name, with respect to the author name,
06:31 over here on the spine. So I'm going to go ahead and move this
06:35 guy over so that the r continues into the s, like so.
06:39 And then I'll press Shift left arrow a couple of times in order to nudge that
06:42 text to the left. And that, friends, is how you use symbols
06:47 as a very flexible substitute for master pages here inside Illustrator.
06:53
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Advanced symbol modifications
00:00 In this movie, we'll take a look at a couple of advanced symbol modifications.
00:04 Specifically, we'll take this title here, and we'll give it a drop shadow.
00:08 And because the titles expresses a symbol, the drop shadow rotates along
00:12 with it, which is unusual. And secondly, we'll break the link
00:16 between the title and the symbol, so that we can break the first cover title onto
00:20 three lines. So let me show you how that works.
00:23 I'll go in and switch to our document in progress here.
00:26 Zoom out as well, and I want to start by giving this title a drop shadow.
00:30 So I'll just go ahead and double-click on any one of the title symbols here, in
00:34 order to enter the symbol isolation mode. And then, I'll click on this title text
00:40 in order to select it, and I'll go up to the Effect menu, and I'll choose Stylize,
00:43 and then I'll choose Drop Shadow. Or, if you loaded D keys, I've given you
00:48 a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+Alt+E, or Cmd+Option+E, for Effect, by the way.
00:55 I've got the mode set to multiply, opacity 50%.
00:58 I want the x-offset and y-offset values to be five points a piece.
01:01 I'll set the blur to zero points, and then I've got the color, by the way, if
01:06 you're following along with me, set to C 50, M 100, Y 100, and K 50%.
01:13 And the reason is, I want huge infusion of red in this drop shadow so it matches
01:17 the background. All right, I'll go ahead and click Okay,
01:20 and turn on the preview check box. And you can see, it's going to look
01:23 something like this. And the reason I say something like that
01:26 is because the drop shadow will look exactly like this, but it's going to be
01:29 set against a darker red background. Right now, the background is dim.
01:34 So I'll go ahead and click Okay. So you have to use a little bit of
01:37 imagination here. And now that I've applied this effect,
01:40 I'll go ahead and press the Esc key in order to exit the symbol isolation mode.
01:45 And notice, we now have a pretty decent looking drop shadow.
01:48 And all the other title text has drop shadows as well.
01:51 And notice, this is very important, that the drop shadow has rotated along with
01:55 the type on the spine. Normally, if I weren't working with a
01:58 symbol, that wouldn't happen. If I were to grab my Type tool, which of
02:01 course I can get by pressing the T key, and then click on the word character here
02:04 in order to adjust some settings. I'll dial in Adobe Garamond, because
02:09 that's what I'm working with, and I'll set the type size to, let's say 48 points.
02:14 And then I'll just go ahead and press the Enter key in order to hide that
02:17 panel, and I'll make sure that my color is set to white.
02:21 Now I'll go ahead and click inside the Document window, and I'll just enter the
02:24 word, word. All right, well it didn't take my color,
02:27 darn it, so I'll go ahead and switch back to the black arrow tool, and change it to white.
02:32 And I'll set the effect, I'll just go ahead and choose the very first command
02:35 from the effect menu, Apply Drop Shadow, in order to apply that same drop shadow I
02:38 applied before. So you can see, it's going down and to
02:42 the right. If I were to grab my Rotate tool and
02:45 double-click on it, and rotate the text negative 90 degrees, the drop shadow
02:49 stays down and to the right. And notice, I don't have the option of
02:54 rotating the effect here inside of Illustrator.
02:57 What I want, of course, I'll go ahead and click Okay, is to have the drop shadow go
03:00 down and to the left. So normally, what I'd have to do is go to
03:04 the Appearance panel, click on Drop Shadow, and change the x-offset value to
03:07 negative five. Turn on the preview check box, and now it
03:11 goes in the right direction. So it's not the end of the world, but you
03:14 can see, after my belabored discussion of what could go wrong here, how symbols
03:18 make things just naturally right. All right, so I'll go ahead and switch back
03:23 to the black arrow tool. Press the Backspace key, or Delete key on
03:26 a Mac, to get rid of that text I added. Now, I look at this title on the front cover.
03:32 I'll go ahead and zoom out a little bit, and it just looks wrong.
03:34 It doesn't take up nearly enough space, and it shouldn't be on a single line, and
03:37 we have all this head room. And it looks great.
03:40 A single line title looks great on the spine, and it looks fine on the back cover.
03:45 But it doesn't look right on the front cover, which is what needs to look the
03:48 most right on a book cover, after all. So, I'll go and select this text.
03:52 How do I edit it now that it's a symbol, without affecting the other guys?
03:56 Well, you break the link. You make it a non-symbol.
03:58 And you do that, and this is fairly awkward, in my opinion, but here's how it works.
04:02 Bring up the Symbols panel, and click on this little icon right there, Break Link,
04:06 or, up in the Control panel, even more conveniently, you have a Break Link button.
04:12 I just want you to notice that they're both there.
04:14 Click on either, and you've broken the link.
04:16 It's no longer a symbol anymore. It is now editable type.
04:20 Problem is, notice how it has a little red underline?
04:22 That's because, if I switch back to the Layers panel, you'll see that things
04:26 start off blue, but then they suddenly turn red.
04:30 If I go ahead and target this item, book title, you can see that it's a layer.
04:34 And what happens then is that Illustrator colors everything underneath according to
04:38 that sublayer color, even though they're not part of that sublayer.
04:43 Anyway, I'm going to twirl this guy open, so that I can grab this text, which is
04:46 what I want, drag it out of the sublayer, because I don't need the sublayer.
04:51 Grab the sublayer, throw it in the trash. Everything remains kind of reddish,
04:55 because Illustrator doesn't keep track of things very well.
04:58 Go ahead and twirl the cover layer closed, twirl it back open, and you can
05:01 see that everything's back to normal. So, it's just a little bit of
05:05 housekeeping, if that kind of thing bugs you, which obviously, it does me.
05:09 That's how you take care of it. All right, I'll press the T key to switch
05:12 back to the Type tool, and I'll go ahead and break this text onto three
05:15 independent lines. And I'll grab it, and I'll drag it
05:18 upward, and that's the effect that I'm looking for.
05:21 Except for one thing, I want to go ahead and change the type size here to 72 points.
05:26 And that is the effect I'm looking for. All right, now it seems to me that the
05:30 other drop shadows are a little too big, the ones that are associated with the symbols.
05:35 That is, they're too far away from the text, so I'm going to go ahead and double
05:38 click on one of these symbols, in order to once again enter the symbol isolation mode.
05:44 Click on the text to select it now, and then I'll switch back to the Appearance panel.
05:48 Click on the drop shadow. And I'll take both the x-offset value and
05:52 the y-offset value down to 3.33 points. Because that's what it should be, in
05:59 order to match the new text, which is 72 points versus 48 points.
06:03 And I'll turn on the preview check box, and to me this looks better.
06:07 Now I'll click Okay, and I'll go ahead and press the Esc key in order to apply
06:10 my modifications to the spine, as well. So there you have it, a couple of
06:15 advanced symbol modifications. Namely, we added an effect to a symbol.
06:20 Which means that it'll rotate and scale along with the text, in this case.
06:25 And we broke the link so that we could edit the first cover text independently
06:29 of the spine and the back cover here inside Illustrator.
06:34
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35. Gradient Mesh
Shading objects with Gradient Mesh
00:00 In this chapter, we'll take a look at one of the most impressive features in all of
00:04 illustrator, and it goes by the name Gradient Mesh.
00:08 And it allows you to add shadows and highlights inside of a single path outline.
00:13 So that you can make it appear contoured and volumetric and just plain real.
00:18 Now, you could think of a gradient mesh as a kind of net that you cast around a
00:21 path outline, and at the intersection of any two ropes in that net, is an anchor point.
00:28 And you can not only move the anchor point around, but you can also assign it
00:31 a color, and then Illustrator, creates a series of miniature gradients, between
00:35 all the pairs of colorful points. And as a result, we can take these flat
00:41 path outlines and turn them into this dramatic dimensional final piece of art.
00:47 I cannot wait to show you how gradient mesh works.
00:50
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Creating a gradient mesh
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create a gradient mesh.
00:03 So here's the final version of the peppers that we're going to create, just
00:06 so you can see them on screen. And if I click on this forward path
00:09 outline, you can see the mesh, wherein every single point represents a unique color.
00:15 I'll go ahead and switch over to our base document here.
00:18 And if you turn on the base paths layer, you'll see that I've gone ahead and draw
00:22 nine paths in advance, mostly with the pen tool.
00:26 And then, if you turn that one off, and turn on mesh peppers, you'll see that
00:29 I've already assigned gradient meshes to the right hand pepper.
00:33 Because otherwise, we'd end up with a lot of duplication of information, we are
00:36 going to assign gradient meshes to the paths associated with the left hand
00:39 pepper, which is going to be more than enough work for us.
00:44 All right, I'll go ahead and zoom in on the peppers here, to 200% just so I can see
00:48 them big on screen. And I'll go scroll them up so I can see
00:52 the entire path at a time. And then finally, I'll select this
00:56 forward path that we want to fill with the gradient mesh.
01:00 Now, there's three ways to create a gradient mesh in Illustrator, and I'll be
01:03 demonstrating all of them. And I just want you to know up front, if
01:07 you only have a gradient assigned to your object, then you can convert it to a
01:10 gradient mesh by going up to the Object menu, and choosing the Expand command.
01:16 So that's one way to work. Another way is to drop down here to the
01:20 mesh tool, which has a keyboard shortcut of U, and then you can just click
01:23 somewhere on the outline of the path in order to add a perpendicular line to your mesh.
01:30 And so, I could add a series of lines if I wanted to, and then, after that, you
01:34 can click on one of these existing lines, add a perpendicular line to it.
01:40 So, I'm basically divvying up this object into a series of rows and columns.
01:45 All right. I'll press Ctrl Z, or Cmd Z on the Mac as
01:47 many times as it takes to get back to the original object so we can see the third
01:50 way to create a gradient mesh, which is possibly the most obvious as well.
01:55 You go up to the Object menu, and you choose Create Gradient Mesh, and that
01:59 brings up this dialog box right here. Now, you want to turn on the Preview
02:02 check box so you can see what you're doing.
02:04 By default, Illustrator wants to divide your object into four rows and four
02:08 columns, so that is to say three row lines, and 3 column lines as well.
02:14 I'm going to go ahead and take those values up to 6 each, and notice you can
02:17 nudge these values from the keyboard by pressing the up and down arrow keys.
02:23 And you can go as high as you want. For example, now we're seeing 9 columns.
02:28 The problem with this configuration Is that every single column is the same
02:31 width, and when representing a volumetric object, you really want more column lines
02:35 around the outside, so that you have more control over those highlights as they
02:39 decline away. So I'm going to take the columns value
02:45 down to 6, and manually add and delete rows and columns inside the next movie.
02:50 Notice that by default appearance is set to flat that means nothing is going on
02:54 with the coloring. Every single one of the points is the
02:57 exact same color as you used to fill the object in the first place.
03:02 Alternatively, you can add a highlight either in the center like so, or you can
03:06 add it around the outer edge. I'm going to set this guide to center and
03:10 then I'm going to take the highlight value down from 100%, which is going to
03:14 be white, down to let's say 65%, which will give me some highlight in the center
03:17 but not as much as I had before, and then I'll click Okay in order to accept that effect.
03:25 Now you may notice if you press Ctrl H or Cmd H on a Mac that we've lost our stroke
03:29 and actually we've lost both the fill and the stroke.
03:34 Strange as that sounds. In order to see waht I mean, switch over
03:36 to the appearance panel, which you can also get to by choosing appearance from
03:39 the window menu. And notice that we've got a mesh with
03:42 mesh points, but we don't have any fill or stroke attributes.
03:46 To regain the stroke, drop down to the Add New Stroke icon in the bottom left
03:49 corner of the appearance panel and click on it, and notice that adds a stroke as
03:53 well as a none fill, which you could go ahead and change if you wanted to do.
03:59 I could change that guy say to blue, and that's going to end up covering up my
04:02 mesh points, unless I were to drag it down to below the mesh points, in which
04:05 case the mesh points would cover it up. So in other words, we don't need that fill.
04:11 It's not doing us any good, so I'll just go ahead and switch it back to none
04:14 regardless of its placement in the stack. And that folks, is how you create a new
04:19 gradient mesh here inside Illustrator.
04:22
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Adding and deleting lines with the Mesh tool
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to manually assign rows and columns to a
00:03 gradient mesh, so that you have as much control over the process as possible.
00:09 As I was saying in a previous movie, I want to specifically add more column
00:12 lines around the outer edges of the shape as this volumetric object is declining
00:17 away from us. And you do that using the mesh tool.
00:21 So go ahead and select the mesh tool, either by clicking on this icon, or
00:24 pressing the U key. Next to add a new column line you want to
00:28 click on an existing row line because you always end up adding a line perpendicular
00:32 to the one that you click on. So I'll go ahead and click right there in
00:36 order to add this kind of column tour and then I'll go ahead and click over here in
00:40 order to add a column line at that location and I want to add another one
00:43 right here. Now, if you need more row lines, then you
00:48 click on an existing column line. For example, I'm going to create a new
00:52 row line right about there and one up here as well.
00:56 Now, at some point, you may want to move an existing line around.
00:59 For example, I want this column line to be farther over to the left.
01:03 Now armed with the Mesh tool you can drag points around, and with a great deal of
01:06 control too. Notice that I can drag this point right
01:09 here, and if you press the shift key as you drag, then you drag the column, in
01:13 this case, along the existing row. So the row's not affected, or if I were
01:18 to drag up and down I could drag the row and leave the column uneffected which is
01:22 very useful. Problem is in this to my way of thinking
01:26 is just nuts. You can't select multiple points at a time.
01:29 You can with wide arrow tool if you press the a key to switch to the wide arrow
01:33 tool and then shift click on a bunch of point like so.
01:37 You can end up selecting the entire column, as you see me doing right now.
01:41 However, the problem is, there's no way to constrain your drag, so you don't mess
01:44 up all the row lines. Which is what I'm looking to do.
01:49 And if I were to undo that move. Press the u key to switch back to the
01:52 mesh tool. And now drag these guys while pressing
01:55 the Shift key. You you can see that Illustrator goes
01:57 ahead, and deselects all those points. So the point of my diatribe is this.
02:02 It's easier if you want to move an existing line to just delete it and then
02:05 click where you want it to be. So delete the bad line, add a new good line.
02:11 And to delete a line, what you do is you press the Alt key while using the Mesh
02:14 tool and then notice if you click on a point, you're going to delete both the
02:18 column and the row that were associated With that point.
02:23 I don't want that to happen, so I'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac.
02:27 Instead what you do is press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac, and click
02:30 on an existing line segment like so. And that'll just go ahead and delete that
02:35 entire column. Now I'll create a new column right here,
02:38 by clicking on that point on the row line.
02:42 Now I want to delete this column line as well, so press the Alt key or the Option
02:45 key on a Mac and click on it, and then I'll click right here to create a new
02:48 column line. So basically what I'm doing is moving
02:52 these columns around. I also want to move this row line right
02:56 here so I'll press the Alt key or the Option key on a Mac And click on a line
02:59 segment associated with that row, and then I'll click on the column line right
03:02 about here, to add a new row like so. All right now I want to adjust the contour
03:09 of these two rows right here so that they decline around this sort of spherical
03:12 area of the pepper here. And so I'll go ahead and drag this line
03:17 while pressing the shift key, and that will constrain the edge so it doesn't get
03:20 all messed up And I'll drag this guy down a little bit while pressing the Shift key
03:23 as well. Notice that these points right here are
03:28 sort of double smooth points, that is to say, in all they have four control
03:32 handles, two of which at any given time are symmetrical to each other.
03:37 So if I drag this control handle down, The opposite one raises up, but I don't
03:41 affect the top and bottom handles. If I wanted to affect all four handles at
03:45 the same time, when using the mesh tool, then I would press the Shift key while
03:49 dragging any one of these control handles around.
03:53 I also want to drag this guy up, so I'll just go ahead and drag the control handle
03:56 upward like so, and I might need to drag this guy up a little bit as well.
04:02 Then I'll take this point, and I'll Shift-drag it to this location right here.
04:06 Shift-drag this one a little bit down as well, go ahead and adjust this control
04:10 handle as well as this one, in order to create this final effect here.
04:16 And that's how you both add and delete rows and columns inside of a gradient
04:20 mesh, as well as adjust the positions of specific anchor points and control handles.
04:26
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Assigning colors to mesh points
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to assign colors to the various points
00:03 inside of a gradient mesh, both using the eyedropper tool, which has the advantage
00:07 of permitting you to lift colors from the actual tracing template, as well as
00:10 manually, by dialing in numerical values here inside the color panel.
00:16 Now you can see I have this photograph layer in the background, which contains
00:20 the tracing template, as indicated by this little picture icon in the eyeball
00:23 column, which means I can see the template either in the preview mode or in
00:27 the outline mode. Now, because the pepper is covering up
00:31 the template I'll switch to the outline mode by pressing Ctrl Y or Cmd Y on a Mac.
00:36 And then, I'll press the A key in order to switch to the wide arrow tool, and
00:40 I'll go ahead and click on one of the anchor points inside the pepper.
00:45 And just to make things as obvious as possible, because this point is already a
00:48 shade of red, and the change if I were to lift a color from the pepper, would be
00:52 pretty modest. I'll go ahead and press the I key to
00:56 switch to the eye dropper tool, and I'll click inside the stem instead.
01:00 And that goes ahead and lifts a color from the template.
01:04 And it doesn't lift the dimmed color that we're seeing on screen.
01:07 It lifts the actual color of that pixel that I clicked on.
01:11 And to confirm that the change has happened, you can press Ctrl Y or Cmd Y
01:14 again and you'll see that the anchor point has turned green.
01:18 Now, that's not the color we're looking for, so I'll go ahead and press Ctrl Y or
01:21 Cmd Y again, and I'll just go ahead and click right there on that anchor point,
01:25 and that will lift the color, not of the anchor point because the point really
01:28 doesn't have any color because we're working inside the outline mode.
01:34 Instead, I'm lifting the color from the template.
01:37 And then, I'll Ctrl click or Cmd click on this anchor point, the fact that I have
01:40 the Ctrl or Cmd key down allows me to switch to the wide arrow tool, and then
01:43 I'll release the key and click on this point right here in order to lift its color.
01:49 And in order to make a bigger change, I'll go ahead and Ctrl click, or Cmd
01:52 click on this anchor point, and I'll click here in order to lift its light
01:56 color, and so forth. So you can work that way if you want to.
02:01 But just for the sake of expediency, I've played around with this pepper
02:04 shape, here. And I've come up with some very specific
02:07 color values in advance. And to see what those are, I'll go ahead
02:11 and switch over to Photoshop. And you can see, for those of you who
02:14 have access to the exercise files, I've created this intense diagram file that
02:18 you can open in Photoshop. And it's showing all of the color values
02:23 associated with each and every point in the mesh.
02:26 Now, notice, for all points, the hues value's set to zero degrees.
02:30 And that's the way I prefer to work. The illustration in progress happens to
02:34 be an RGB file, but it could just as easily by CMYK.
02:37 In either case, it's easier to edit the colors using HSB values, just because
02:41 that way, you can lock down the hue, and work from there.
02:45 And so each of these number pairs here show the saturation on top and the
02:48 brightness value on the bottom. Now, I've color-coded these because I
02:53 tended to use a lot of the same color values, as you can see right here.
02:57 We've got 50 85. So 50 for saturation, and 85 for
03:01 brightness, all around the top points and around the right hand side as well.
03:06 Then over here on the left hand edge, and along some of the top points as well,
03:10 I've used a pairing of saturation 35 and brightness 85.
03:14 I've got a bunch of 85, 65s that you can see in pink right here.
03:19 And then toward the bottom, I have a bunch of 75 70s, both along the bottom
03:22 edge and along some of these columns as well.
03:26 That leaves us with just these dozen white points, an even 12, which have
03:29 unique values as you can see here. So let's go ahead and apply them.
03:34 I'll switch back to Illustrator, and I'll select the points.
03:37 Now this is going to take a little bit of effort, so I'm going to press Ctrl Y or
03:40 Cmd Y on the Mac, in order to switch back to the preview mode, and I'll press the A
03:44 key to get my wide arrow tool. And I'll go ahead and marquee these top
03:49 points like so to select them, and it's important by the way, to press Ctrl K or
03:52 Cmd K on a Mac if you want to be able to work this way, then you need to go to
03:55 selection and anchor display right here and turn on this top check box object
03:59 selection by path only. That way you can drag through a path as I
04:05 just did without moving it. I'll go head and click the Cancel button
04:09 because my check box was already on. Now, I've selected a bunch of shapes in
04:12 the background as well. That's not what I want, so I'll go ahead
04:16 and twirl open this mesh peppers layer right here and I'll drag down, notice
04:20 that the top object is the mesh. Everything below it needs to be locked down.
04:25 So I'll just go ahead and drag down the Lock column, all the way down to this
04:28 first circular red path so that we're just accepting the mesh object, and
04:31 nothing more. All right, now, I'll go ahead and Shift
04:35 drag around these anchor points, these as well.
04:39 It's just easier to marquee them than to select them, oftentimes.
04:43 And I want to select all the way down to this bottom point right here.
04:48 The square points, you want to leave alone, because they don't have any colors
04:51 assigned to them, they're basically purposeless points which Illustrator
04:53 throws in automatically every so once in a while.
04:57 All right, now I also want to select this point right there and these two points as well.
05:02 So, I'm Shift clicking on them of course to add them to the selection.
05:05 And then, there's this point right there. That I want to select.
05:09 So those are the points right there along the top along the right hand edge, and
05:11 the ones that I just Shift clicked on. And notice that they have different
05:15 values associated with them, so our RGB values are blank.
05:19 I'm going to switch over however to HSB which isn't going to work, so I better
05:23 dial in some sort of color. I'll just click on some red down here, in
05:27 order to get things going. And then I'll switch over to HSB.
05:32 And I'm looking for a hue value of zero degrees, of course.
05:34 We always want zero. And then I'm going to take the saturation
05:37 value up to 50 and the brightness value up to 85.
05:42 And the idea here is that in pairing relatively low saturation values with
05:45 relatively high brightness values because if you crank the brightness value too
05:49 high and you also pair it with a high saturation value, you'll end up getting
05:52 extremely hot colors, whereas if you go with low saturation values, and low
05:56 brightness values as well, you end up with these dingy colors.
06:02 So, you want low brightness with high saturation, like so, or in our case,
06:06 relatively low saturation with a relatively high brightness value.
06:12 Now, I'm dialing in values of exactly 50% and 85%.
06:15 Illustrator is changing the values on me, because it's trying to find the closest
06:19 RGB equivalents. All right, so there you have a couple of
06:23 ways to assign colors to points inside of a gradient mesh, both using the
06:26 eyedropper tool and by manually dialing in values here, inside the Color panel.
06:31 In the next movie we will assign the remaining colors.
06:35
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Finessing colors to add depth and shading
00:00 In this movie, we'll finesse the colors of our anchor points.
00:03 In order to take this gradient that we have so far, which isn't bad, if I press
00:07 Ctrl+ H or CMD+H on the Mac to hide the mesh, you can see that we have created a
00:10 custom gradient unlike anything that we could achieve using the standard gradient tool.
00:18 But we want to turn it into this much better more dynamic gradient right here,
00:22 that really shows off the volume of the pepper.
00:26 Now those of you who have access to the exercise files, remember that I'm
00:29 providing you with this diagram that shows you the combination of saturation
00:33 and brightness values that I'm assigning at every single anchor point.
00:38 And the color coding indicates points where I'm repeating color values.
00:42 Just in the name of expediency. All right, so I'll switch back to
00:45 Illustrator, then I'll press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on a Mac, in order to bring back
00:48 the anchor points. With my white arrow tool, I'll marquee
00:52 these anchor points right there, in order to select them all.
00:56 I don't want this guy though, so I'll shift click on him to deselect him.
01:00 And then, I'll marquee these points as well, as you see me doing here.
01:04 Not this guy, I don't want him because he's not a colorful point.
01:07 The color points are circular by the way. The non-circular point, that little
01:11 square point right there, I don't want him either so I won't marquee him.
01:15 Those are the non-color-bearing points that, insofar as I can figure out over
01:19 time, don't really do anything. They're just something that Illustrator
01:23 requires to keep track of stuff. And then I'll go ahead and assign some
01:26 arbitrary color from this little HSB spectrum down here at the bottom of the
01:29 color panel. And actually, I need two more points,
01:32 these guys right here. So I'll Shift-click on each one of them.
01:36 Reassign the color. That way, I just have some place to start.
01:39 And I'll dial in a hue value of 0 degrees, and then I'll take the
01:42 saturation value down to 35% this time. And I'll take the brightness value up to 85%.
01:48 And that gives us this nice glow of highlight around the outer edge of the pepper.
01:52 And I've got these two guys. I'll go and click this one and
01:55 Shift-click this one. They need to be that same color that we
01:58 assigned in the previous movie. So, I'll dial in the hue values 0
02:01 degrees, I'll change the saturation value to 50% and I'll change the brightness
02:05 value to 85%, in order to brighten up those points.
02:10 Now we want to assign some slightly darker colors down here at the bottom of
02:13 the peppers, so I'll go ahead and marque these points right there, and then shift
02:16 marque these without the little square point, Shift marquee those as well.
02:21 And then I'll go ahead and select this point actually is the one I'm looking for.
02:26 As well as these two here. So I'll go ahead and Shift marquee them.
02:30 And I want these two points as well, so I still have the shift key down while I'm
02:33 marquee them. And this one and this one as well.
02:38 And again I just came up with these through trial and error.
02:41 Go and Shift-click on this anchor point. And I'll change the hue value to 0, and
02:45 this time I'll take the saturation value up to 75, and I'll take the brightness
02:49 value down to 70. So we have some darker colors at these locations.
02:54 And now I'm going to go darker still, with a handful of points along the top of
02:58 the shape, so I'll go ahead and marquee this guy, I'll Shift marquee this one as well.
03:04 I need this guy selected, and this guy, so I'm going pretty far down in this next
03:08 to last column. And I'll go ahead and select this point.
03:13 And then I'm just going to Shift-click on a few guys of these guys right here need
03:16 to be selected. Shift marquee around all these anchor
03:19 points right there. Shift marquee around these two as well as
03:23 these two. And then, let's go ahead and go down the
03:27 left side of the pepper a little bit, and then I'll Shift-click at this point as well.
03:32 I think I want these two selected. There's a lot of anchor points going on
03:36 here, folks. By the way, if you're having problems
03:39 keeping up with me, if you're trying to follow along.
03:41 Just know that you can totally do your own thing where this artwork is concerned.
03:46 I'll go ahead and change the hue value, this time to 0, of course always.
03:49 And then I'll take the saturation value up to 85% and I'll take the brightness
03:53 value down to 65%, in order to create this area of darkness that you see here.
04:00 All right so, that should just leave us with the dozen anchor points that go
04:02 their own way. So I'll go click on this guy and
04:04 Shift-click on this guy. These two, fortunately want to be the
04:07 same color. They already are, but they want to be a
04:10 different one. I'll take the saturation value down to
04:13 50% and I'll take the brightness value to 70% like so, so that we have this area
04:17 sort of low saturation darkness going on. And then, I'll marquee these two points,
04:23 and we want them to be very highly saturated.
04:26 Change the hue value to 0. I'll take the saturation value up to 100%
04:30 and the brightness value down 60%. I'll select these two guys by marqueeing
04:35 around them. Hue value again 0 of course.
04:37 Saturation value 90% this time and a brightness value of 70%.
04:42 This guy wants to darken up as well, so I'll select it.
04:45 And change it's saturation value to 90% once again, but this time I'm taking the
04:48 brightness value down to 60. All right.
04:52 Now click on this point right there in the second to last column and I'll
04:55 Shift-click on this anchor point and then I'll dial in the hue value to 0 degrees.
05:01 Getting pretty tedious by now, but we're going to have a beautiful pepper by the
05:03 time we're done. Take the saturation to 60% and the
05:07 brightness value up to 75%. And now we have just three anchor points
05:11 to go. These three right here in a row.
05:14 So, I'll select these two for starters, and I'll change the hue value.
05:18 Big surprise here, 0 degrees. And then I'll change the saturation, 45%,
05:22 and I'll take the brightness value up to 90%, like so.
05:27 It's a little too bright for this guy I think, so I'll click off of him and click
05:30 back on him in order to select him and then I'll take the brightness value for
05:34 it down to 85% and then I'll go ahead and select this guy.
05:39 I want to dim thing up because we have a highlight here and a highlight here that
05:42 are divided by a darker region. I'll go ahead and change the hue value
05:46 for this last anchor point to 0 degrees and then I'll change the saturation to
05:49 65%, and I'll set the brightness to 85% to produce this effect here.
05:55 And now, if you press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on a Mac.
05:58 You can see that we've got a beautifully sculpted volumetric pepper.
06:02 Thanks to our ability to set colors on a point by point basis, inside of a
06:07 gradient mesh.
06:09
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Creating a gradient with the Mesh tool
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create a gradient mesh using the Mesh
00:03 tool, and in doing so will add some highlights and shadows to the shape in
00:06 the background here. That represents some of the lumps
00:10 associated with the pepper. So first thing I'm going to do is twirl
00:14 open this mesh peppers layer and I'll lock down the forward mesh because we
00:17 don't want to modify it any further. And I'll unlock this path outline that
00:22 looks like some lumpy mouse ears by clicking on its lock icon to turn it off.
00:27 And then I'll go ahead and select a shape using the black arrow tool.
00:31 Now, we're only interested in the visible parts of this shape.
00:34 So, there's no reason to assign a highlight to the central area.
00:38 So we might as well just lay down, exclusively, those rows and columns that
00:42 we need. And that's where the mesh tool comes in.
00:45 So I'll go ahead and switch over to the mesh tool and then I'll click on the
00:48 outline of the shape right about here to set a first row.
00:52 So if you click on a mostly vertical segment in the path outline, you'll
00:55 create a row as I've done here. If you click on a mostly horizontal
00:59 region like right about there, then you'll create a column.
01:04 And I'll create another one here right at the intersection of these two shapes,
01:06 which is why it's so important to have this forward shape locked down, because
01:09 otherwise, it would have just switched over to it, and added a real line to it
01:12 instead, which would have messed things up, of course.
01:16 So, I'll go ahead and add a line about there, and that's going to create this
01:19 line, this is the real line I'm interested in, becacause we're just
01:22 focused on a visible portion of the shape.
01:26 And I'll click right about there. Make sure not to click on existing points.
01:30 Because if you do that, then Illustrator thinks you want to modify the point like so.
01:34 So instead, you want to click on a segment in order to add a real line.
01:37 Somehow I managed to add some color as well.
01:40 I'm not sure why that is. So, I'll press control z, or command c on
01:42 the Mac, to undo that change. And I'll try clicking overe here instead.
01:47 And that adds the top line that I'm interested in.
01:49 I want another line just right below it. So, I'll click right about there to add it.
01:54 And then we need some lines up here, but we've got these points in the way and I
01:56 can't click here because that will give us a column line as apposed a row line.
02:00 So let's add a few more column lines first by clicking right about there in
02:03 order to add a point and that added some color as well, which is a little bit
02:06 bewildering, not sure exactly why this is happening, so press Ctrl+Z, Cmd+Z on the
02:10 Mac to undo that change and I'll try clicking here instead and I'm still
02:12 adding a little bounce of color. I guess I added a white point at this
02:19 location because my foreground color is white.
02:23 So what I'm going to do is take a moment to change the color by pressing the Eye
02:25 key to get my eyedropper. Then I'll just click and some obviously
02:29 red portion of the shape like so to switch the foreground color to red.
02:33 So it stops adding those highlights, which apparently is done in a few
02:35 locations because we have a little highlight drift right there.
02:38 But we'll resolve that later. I'll go ahead and press U key to switch
02:41 back to the mesh tool, and I'll click here in order to set a column and here as
02:45 well to set another one. And then I'll click up near the top of
02:49 this column line right about there to add a row line near the top of the shape, and
02:52 I'll add another one right about there. Now if you think better of one of your
02:57 lines, you don't like it, like this one's slightly off, then just press the Alt key
03:00 or the Option key on a Mac and click a segment In order to get rid of in this
03:03 case that row line. And I'll click right there in order to
03:08 add a new one. All right just couple of others I need
03:11 another column line right about there because I want to create a highlight at
03:13 that location and then I want to create some shadow right at that location so
03:16 I'll add another column line. All right.
03:20 Now, let's modify a few colors. I'll press the A key in order to switch
03:23 to the line arrow tool. And then I'll go ahead and zoom in on my path.
03:26 And I'll marquee those two points. I'll shift marquee this guy.
03:30 Go ahead and shift click on a few points like so.
03:33 Watchout for the square points you don't want to select those and I"m not sure if
03:35 that's what that is or not. It is that is a square point thats on its
03:39 side looking like a little diamond. That's not going to communicate color so
03:42 we don't want it and I'll go ahead and Shift click on these two points as well
03:45 to selec tthem. And then I'll zoom out a little bit and
03:49 I'll press the I key to get the eyedropper, and I'll click, as opposed to
03:52 lifting a color from the template, I'll just click inside the forward gradient
03:55 mesh in order to bring up some color from it, and then I'll switch over to the HSB sliders.
04:02 You sometimes have to do that repeatedly becasue if you deselect a shape and then
04:05 reselect it, then Illustrator will automatically switch back to RGB because
04:08 this is an RGB document. And I'll go ahead and crank the
04:12 brightness up to 100 for this, and I'll take the saturation value down to say,
04:16 40, it should work out pretty nicely. And then I want to add some highlight
04:21 here too, so I'll go ahead and press the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on the Mac, to
04:24 temporarily get the wide arrow tool, and then I'll Ctrl+Shift+Click or
04:27 Cmd+Shift+Click on this point to select it and I'll once again lift a highlight
04:31 color like so And I might actually make this even more intensely bright so we
04:34 could have kind of a pop going, at this location.
04:40 In which case, might revisit these two anchor points.
04:43 We're sort of making this up on the fly by the way.
04:45 And I'll go ahead, and increase the saturation and decrease the brightness a little.
04:50 So we have something resembling some, volumetric roundness there.
04:54 All right, now I'm going to zoom out a little bit, and I'll go ahead and press
04:57 the Control key or the Command key on a Mac, and click on this anchor point,
05:00 shift-click on this one, shift-click on this one as well to select them.
05:06 Let's go ahead and lift a bright color by clicking with the eyedropper someplace
05:09 inside a bright portion of the pepper. Take out the brightness value, take down
05:14 the saturation value like so And at a point you may notice, oh wait, I lost my stroke.
05:19 I need to get my stroke back. Well what you don't want to do is switch
05:22 over to the appearance panel and apply a stroke for a mesh point.
05:26 Because a, that's impossible. Notice the icon is dimmed down there in
05:29 the bottom left corner. But also if you try to select a stroke,
05:32 it just won't apply. Because you can't stroke independent
05:35 anchor points. So what you do instead is you press the V
05:37 key to switch to the black air tool. Then I'll click somewhere on the outline
05:41 of the shape to select the entire thing. And then I'll drop down to the lower left
05:44 corner of the appearance panel and click on the add new stroke icon in order to
05:47 add a default 1 point stroke which is exactly what I'm looking for.
05:52 All right now I'll press the 8 key to switch back to the wide arrow tool and
05:56 I'll click on some of these points and maybe shift marquee as well along the
06:00 left side of the shape like so. And I want to add some highlights to
06:05 these areas too, so I'll press the I key to get my eyedropper, click in the
06:08 highlight in the front pepper shape in order to select it, switch over to my fill.
06:13 Notice that my stroke is active because I just added a stroke from the Appearance panel.
06:17 And increase the brightness, then I'll take down the saturation value.
06:21 Just some rough changes that I'm applying here.
06:24 Then I'll go ahead and Control click on this point, that'd be Command click on
06:28 the Mack, in order to select it, it'll Control Shift click.
06:33 On this anchor point right there, which I believe is already bright.
06:36 But want to make sure both of these have a little brightness associated with them,
06:40 so I'll go ahead and click with the eye dropper in some bright region here inside
06:43 the forward pepper shape. All right, now let's go ahead and Add some
06:49 Shadow, specifically to these Points right there.
06:53 Going Control Click on one, that's Command Click on a Mac, Control Shift or
06:56 Command Shift Click on the other and then, instead of using the Eye Dropper.
07:00 I'll just go ahead and reduce the brightness to something pretty darn dark
07:04 like that, and then I'll crank up the saturation to 100%.
07:08 It might be a little too dark, so well, actually that looks pretty good.
07:11 I just don't want it getting too black. And then I'll go ahead and Ctrl+click and
07:15 Ctrl+shift+click on these two points, that's Cmd+click, Cmd+shift+click on a
07:18 Mac, crank up the saturation, crank down the brightness Maybe not quite that much.
07:24 To about there looks pretty darn good. And then I'll press CTRL H, or CMD H on
07:28 the Mac, so I can check out my work, and that looks pretty darn good.
07:32 I think we'll need some additional highlight right here in this location, so
07:35 I'll press CTRL H, or CMD H on the Mac, in order to bring back my anchor points,
07:39 that is, so I can see them, and I'll just press the A key in order to get the Wide
07:42 Arrow tool. And I think the points I want, gets a
07:47 little confusing after a while. I'll go ahead and click on this guy and
07:51 shift-click on these two because I believe they're going up this edge here.
07:55 And I might select these two points as well.
07:58 Let's see how that goes. And I'll take the saturation down, and
08:01 I'll increase the brightness fairly significantly as we're seeing here.
08:06 In order to create that bright highlight edge at this location.
08:10 All right, let's go and zoom out. Press Control H, or Command H on the Mac
08:13 to gauge the quality of your work. looks pretty darn good to me.
08:17 Very likely your results will vary. But in any event, that's how you go
08:21 about constructing a custom gradient mesh.
08:23 Right from the get go using the Mesh tool.
08:26
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Wrapping gradients around circles
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to add a gradient mesh to a circle, two circles in fact.
00:05 And the reason is, because circles are about the easiest way to understand
00:08 what's going on with gradient mesh. Because if you select one of these
00:13 circles in the background in the final piece of art, you'll see that we end up
00:16 with these latitude lines which are the rows as well these longitude lines, the
00:19 columns, traced around the surface of the globe.
00:24 I'll go ahead and switch over to my illustration in progress.
00:27 Twirl open the mesh peppers layer, and then scroll down the list, and go ahead
00:30 and lock down that last path that we edited, and then unlock both of the
00:33 circles below it. And we'll start by selecting the rearmost
00:37 circle here. And then, you want to press the U key, to
00:40 get the Mesh tool and click right in the center if you like, in order to add a
00:43 straight column line right down the middle of the circle.
00:49 And then click a little over to the left of that.
00:51 And this one has some bend associated with it.
00:53 Because it's starting to wrap around the globe.
00:56 And then I'll click right about there in order to add another longitudinal column line.
01:01 And then you want to click right about there and a little farther down such as,
01:05 bout here I think in order to add a couple of curving latitude lines.
01:11 If this were a globe, we're just focusing our attention on the North Pole because
01:14 after all that's the only part of the circle that we can see.
01:18 Now I'll press the A key in order to switch to the Wide Arrow tool.
01:22 And I'll go ahead and click and shift-click on these anchor points, and
01:24 by the way, if you ever have problems selecting one, then just go ahead and
01:27 zoom in farther. Then notice my stroke is active, so I'll
01:31 switch over to the fill, and I've got my HSB values up onscreen, which is great.
01:35 I'm just going to dial in some values here.
01:37 I'm going to take the saturation value down to 35%, and I'm going to take the
01:40 brightness value up to 100%, so we have quite a bit of highlight.
01:44 Then I'll go ahead and select these three points here.
01:47 And I'll take the brightness value down, we don't want to go too low with it, but
01:51 maybe something in a range of 63% looks pretty good.
01:56 And I'll go ahead and take the saturation up a little bit as well.
01:59 All right, now let's grab this guy by pressing the V key to switch to the Black
02:01 Arrow tool. Go ahead and click on it to select it.
02:04 And then I'll press the U key to switch to the Mesh tool.
02:07 And I'll click just a little bit left of the center point in order to create a
02:10 column line there. And I'll create another one at this
02:14 location and a third one right about there.
02:18 And then I'll drop down a little bit and click here in order to add a latitude
02:22 line, then probably right about there in order to add another one.
02:26 All right now I"ll press the A key to switch back to the White Arrow tool and
02:29 I'll go ahead and select these four anchor points like so that make up this
02:33 second row line. And I'll take the saturation value down
02:37 to, what the heck, 34% that's fine. And I'll take the brightness value up to
02:41 100% in order to produce this effect here.
02:44 Then I'll go ahead and select these two anchor points, and I'll take the
02:48 brightness value down quite a bit actually, something like 55% should work
02:51 pretty well. And then I'll take the saturation value
02:55 up to about 93, let's say. And now I need to reinstate my strokes so
02:59 I'll press the V key to switch back to my Black Arrow tool.
03:03 Click on one of these guys. Shift click on the other one to select
03:05 both of them. Switch over to the appearance panel, and
03:08 drop down to the Add New Stroke icon and click on it or you can press a keyboard
03:12 shortcut Ctrl Alt Slash, or Cmd Option Slash on the Mac in order to reinstate
03:15 those strokes. And we end up with this effect here.
03:20 I'll go ahead and zoom out in order to check things out here, and it looks to me
03:24 like I've got some lighter strokes than I should.
03:28 Some weak blacks for some reason, which is weird because I'm working in the RGB mode.
03:32 I'll just go ahead and marquee. Oops, I've got some locked shapes.
03:35 I'll switch over to the layers panel. Unlock the top mesh, and then unlock the
03:39 red mesh below it. And go and ahead and try marqueeing these
03:42 guys again in order to select them all. And then I'll make sure my stroke is
03:46 active, which it is. And I'll just switch back to RGB here in
03:49 the color panel. And I'll click on black in order to set black.
03:54 I don't know what that was about. But now we have zero for each of our RGB
03:57 values, which is essential if we want our blacks to actually be black.
04:02 So that's how you apply gradient mesh to circles, inside of Illustrator.
04:05 In the next movie, I'll show you how to assign a gradient mesh to an object that
04:09 curves like this, which as you'll see, presents us with a special challenge.
04:14
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Working with slender, bending shapes
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to work with the gradient mesh inside of a
00:03 slender, bending shape. Because here's the deal, gradient mesh
00:07 works beautifully inside of a circle. It also works really well inside these
00:11 gently curving sort of blobby forms that make up the red pepper shapes.
00:16 But once we have a path outline that curves around onto itself like this That
00:20 presents special challenges. After all, we have to prepared for what
00:24 begins as a column line going up the stem is going to have to curve around to
00:28 become a roll line that has column lines tracing across it.
00:32 And that's the point at which things get pretty weird.
00:36 So, what you want is a high degree of patience and a willingness to modify the
00:39 mass using the light arrow tool. So, I'm going to go ahead and zoom in on
00:44 the stem and twirl open the mesh (UNKNOWN) layer go ahead and lock that
00:47 top red mesh, unlock the stem and then lock the other three red shapes as well,
00:50 just to keep them out of the way. And then I'll click on the stem to select
00:56 it with the black arrow tool. Next, I'll go ahead and select the mesh
01:00 tool, which of course you can get by pressing the U key.
01:03 Now I want to create a total of seven column lines, at least they start out as
01:06 column lines, by clicking right about here, in order to create that line that
01:09 jumps sort of right there into the corner and then it goes outside the shape for a
01:12 moment and then it kind of ends right there.
01:17 Sort of an unusual location, but it will serve us well and then, I'll click here
01:21 to add another column line. We want one right about here, and we want
01:26 one here a little bit in right about there as well.
01:30 And we want three more, altogether, I'm going to click right about there in order
01:35 to create a column. And then we want 1 about here, and
01:39 another one farther in, right about at this location if I can get it.
01:43 And if you can't, then what you want to do is zoom, because at this point, if you
01:46 see the white arrow cursor with the little grid next to it, that means that
01:49 Illustrator presumes that you're modifying control handles or anchor points.
01:55 You need to see the plus sign if you're going to add either a column line or a row.
02:01 And one at about that location is going to work great.
02:03 So we have a total of seven of those. And notice that they loop up to various
02:07 locations at the top of the shape. And they bend around to become row lines
02:11 at a point, and they overlap into each other.
02:14 Which is the special weird challenge that I was telling you about.
02:18 Anyway, we'll take care of that in time. Now I'm going to click over here in order
02:22 to create a row at this location. And then we want one, pretty much dead
02:26 center right about there, and we want one a little farther down, like so.
02:31 And we're going to need to apply some modifications, because these guys are a mess.
02:36 So, I'll start things off by dragging some of these points upward, and Ill do
02:39 so by pressing the Shift key as I drag with the Mesh tool in order to move these
02:43 row lines along the column lines, so that we're not modifying the column lines, and
02:47 I want to take this guy up as well by shift dragging.
02:52 I know I've said this before, but I wish you could modify multiple points at the
02:55 same time. But it's one by one where this tool's concerned.
02:59 Now I'll take these guys up a little bit as well.
03:02 So they're more or less centered across the length of this top portion of the stem.
03:08 And take it up here, and then we want to do something similar with this anchor point.
03:14 want to take it up a little bit. And take this one up as well.
03:17 And they just basically all need to be inside of the path outline instead of
03:21 looping outside of it there. And they don't have to be utterly and
03:24 completely Smooth, in fact, that's impossible.
03:27 As witnessed, if I press the A key, to switch to the wide arrow tool, and I'll
03:31 go ahead and click here and I'll drag these guys over a little bit.
03:36 I might even just, modify this point, the location of the point that is, manually
03:39 I'll go ahead and drag these guys over and I want to drag this guy too, and so
03:43 far it looks like everybody's just a straight forward smooth pointer and I'm
03:46 not seeing any weird lockstep action. But you may, you may see that the control
03:53 handles are I lockstep with each other but they may not be locked into absolute alignment.
03:58 They may be locked into, a sort of corner pattern, which there's not really too
04:02 much you can do about. Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and drag
04:05 this guy over here, and drag these guys. There all in such good shape, maybe this
04:09 guy is a problem. He is, this is what I was talking about.
04:12 I'll go ahead and zoom in on it so you can see.
04:14 Notice how we've got a little bit of a bend here and the bend keeps on.
04:18 We don't have two independent control handles, we have two that are locked into
04:22 this sort of bad orientation here. And if you want to change that, you might
04:27 be able to get away with trying out the convert anchor point tool.
04:31 Which you can get by pressing shift + C, and I'll go ahead and drag, but notice
04:34 what happens here. I can't even really tell you actually I
04:38 do know what's happening. We've got a bend going this direction up
04:42 and over (LAUGH) into some very elastic territory there, which doesn't make
04:47 really any sense. Because that control handle down there
04:51 isn't quite that long. But anyway, and then we've got this other
04:54 stuff going on right there. So apparently we're not going to make
04:58 things work. I'll just go ahead and press Ctrl + Z or
05:00 Cmd + Z on the mac, I'll go ahead and press the a key to switch back to the
05:03 wide narrow tool. And it might move these guys around or
05:06 maybe not, maybe I want that lump left in there.
05:09 Maybe that will lend a little volume to the stem.
05:12 Actually I'll drag that guy up as well, so you can get as molecular as you like
05:15 where this stuff is concerned. All right, now I need to apply a few
05:19 changes to the colors. So I'll go ahead and click and shift
05:22 click on these anchor points right there, going all the way to this location.
05:27 And then I'll switch up here in the color panel to HSB.
05:30 Notice, that everybody's by default set to 75 degrees and 65 65.
05:34 I'm going to go ahead and change the saturation value in this case to 40%, and
05:38 I'll raise the brightness value to 90% in order to produce this highlight here.
05:44 And then I'll go ahead and select this row of points all the way to this
05:47 location And I'll take the saturation value this time up to 84%, I just played
05:52 around with some values here, and I'll take the brightness value down to 53%,
05:56 and then I'll select these guys. So, just a bunch of painstaking color modifications.
06:04 As usual, you can go your own way with this stuff, but I'm going to select these
06:08 points all the way over to here, this point I can barely see on screen In thin
06:11 time, I'm just going to modify the brightness value.
06:15 I'll go ahead and take it down to, right, it's 60% right there.
06:19 All right, now let's check out the bottom of the shape.
06:21 I need to add a few row lines into place. So, I'll once again press the U key in
06:25 order to switch to the Mesh tool and I'll click right about there in order to add a
06:29 row, and I'll click up here to add another row as well.
06:35 And then I'll press the A key to switch back to my white arrow tool because I
06:38 want to make some changes to the colors and I'll go ahead and select these two
06:41 anchor points right there as well. This guy, actually a third and I want the
06:47 U value to be 75 degrees as usual. And then I'll take the saturation value
06:53 down to 32% and the brightness value up to 92% and then I'll select these points
06:57 those two right there as well as these two anchor points over here on the left
07:01 hand side. I'll set the hue value to 75 degrees.
07:07 I'll take the Saturation Value all the way up to 100% and I'll take the
07:10 Brightness Value down to 28% in order to Create these richly saturated but very
07:14 dark patches that you see here. Right now I'll Select these points right here.
07:21 Right in the central column. And change the hue value to 75 degrees.
07:26 The saturation value should be 86%, and I'm going to take the brightness value
07:30 down to 33%. To produce that region of darkness, let's
07:33 go ahead and select these three anchor points.
07:36 We're almost done, by the way. Change the hue to 75 degrees as usual,
07:39 change the saturation to 65%, and the brightness to 43%.
07:45 And then I'm going to go ahead and grab these three points.
07:47 This is the last, incidentally, and Hue value I've got a reinstate 75 degrees.
07:52 And then change the Saturation to 83% this time, and I'll take the Brightness
07:57 value down to 48%. And we end up getting this effect here.
08:02 So I'll go ahead and press Ctrl-H, or Cmd-H on a Mac, so we can see that we're
08:04 almost done, but we forgot about the strokes.
08:07 So I'll press the V key. In order to swtich to the black arrow tool.
08:10 Go ahead and reinstate the edges by pressing control h, or command h again.
08:15 Switch over to the appearence panel after clicking on the shape and then add a new stroke.
08:20 And of course, let's change that stroke to real black by clicking on a little
08:23 black swatch, here inside the color panel which will reduce the brightness value to 0%.
08:29 We don't care about the other values. All right, and we end up with this effect
08:32 right here. But we do have a problem.
08:35 Even after all that work, notice these hard jagged transitions.
08:39 And that's a function of the way that these various column lines are
08:42 overlapping each other. And I'll show you how to deal with that
08:45 issues, in the very next movie.
08:47
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Creating soft and sharp transitions
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to soften transitions inside of a very
00:03 complicated gradient mesh pattern. And I'll also show you how to sharpen
00:07 transitions, in case that's what you want to do.
00:10 Now in our case, the reason things are so weird.
00:14 I'll just click off the shape here for a moment so I can show you.
00:17 Notice that we have these little slivers of color.
00:20 And that's the function of the fact that the various call lines are overlapping
00:23 each other in an unfortunate way. So, this guy that starts is the third to
00:29 last column line ends up overlapping the last two and then going back to its
00:33 proper location and then the second to last line tucks in between the other two
00:37 and then the very last one goes ahead and travels all the way up above the other
00:42 two and a little bit to the left. So, we need to take care of that problem,
00:49 and there's a couple ways to do that. One, of course, is to switch to the wide
00:53 arrow tool by pressing the A key, and I'll click on an anchor point here in
00:55 order to select it independently of the other ones.
00:59 And then I'll go ahead and drag this guy down like so in order to bring it out, so
01:03 that even though it exceeds the confines of the shape, it no longer overlaps the
01:07 other two column lines. And then I'll grab the next guy in which
01:12 I missed, so I'll have to click on the path outline again to select it, then
01:15 I'll select this anchor point right there, and I'll go ahead and bring it
01:18 down as well. Now, you can give yourself even more
01:23 control, if you want to, by adding an anchor point.
01:26 And you can do that by switching over here from the last pen-like tool that I
01:30 used, which was the convert anchor point tool.
01:33 You don't switch to the Pen tool which allows you to add points to ordinary segments.
01:38 Instead you have to select the add anchor point tool which you can get by pressing
01:41 the Plus key. And then you would just click on a
01:44 segment at some location. And notice that selects all the anchor points.
01:48 So you have to press the A key to switch back to the wide arrow tool and click on
01:51 an anchor point to select it. Now, I'll click on this one to select it independently.
01:56 It's not a color-bearing point, so you can't assign a color to it here inside
01:59 the color panel. It says it's white, but it's really not
02:01 any color whatsoever. But you can use it to redirect the paths,
02:05 so I could move it down like so, and then I could lift up on this control handle
02:08 and theoretically, that would help, but it's actually not really producing any effect.
02:14 So I'll go ahead and drag this guy up a little bit instead, and it looks like
02:18 that's going to more or less do the trick for now, although I might want to go
02:21 ahead and select the final column line, and move it down a little bit, that is,
02:25 bring its control handle in. And then I'll click on this guy which is
02:32 the third inside and I'll go ahead and move it up like so, and then I need to
02:35 take it down where the top control handle is concerned, or at least in or something.
02:43 Maybe I'll add another anchor point by pressing the Plus key, to get my add
02:45 point tool. And I'll just click at this location,
02:48 switch to the white arrow tool, click on that anchor point to select it
02:50 independently of the others. And just drag that guy upward a little bit.
02:56 All right, so that should have the effect of softening things.
02:59 We are definitely getting softer transitions as you can see here, with a
03:02 little bit of sharpness at various locations, but that's actually okay.
03:05 I like that sharp transition right there. It looks stem-like to me.
03:10 All right, so I'll press Ctrl H or Cmd H on the Mac in order to bring back the points
03:13 and handles and then I'll click on this anchor point and I think I went too far
03:17 with that modification, so switch back to the HSB sliders, which is something you
03:20 have to do on a fairly regular basis, unfortunately, and then I'll take the
03:23 saturation value down to 84% and I'll raise the brightness to 53% and that will
03:27 just take some of the darkness out of this region.
03:34 All right, now let's say having modified all this stuff and softened the
03:38 transitions, you want a sharp transition elsewhere inside the gradient.
03:44 Well then, the trick is to add another row or column or what have you, and then
03:48 move the points together or even, if you're feeling daring, overlap the points.
03:55 So what I'm going to do is press the U key to once again switch to the mesh tool.
03:59 And I'm going to add a row right here that cuts pretty close to the last row.
04:05 And then I'll press the A key in order to switch to my Wide Arrow tool.
04:09 And I'll go ahead and select these three anchor points right here, that you can
04:13 see selected on screen, one, two, three. And then I'll go ahead and modify their
04:19 HSB values, and the reason I keep losing the hue value, is because even though
04:22 it's very close to 75 degrees for each one of these points, when you add more
04:25 points after you've modified colors, each point ends up with an independent
04:28 intermediate color that Illustrator assigns automatically.
04:34 And so, essentially all three points have different colors associated with them,
04:37 which wipes out the values. Anyway, I'll change the saturation to 50%
04:41 and the brightness to 70% so we have a little bit of a light bounce right there.
04:46 Now I'll just check these points to make sure they're what I need them to be.
04:50 And they almost are. I'll go ahead and shift click on these
04:53 two guys so that these three points are selected.
04:56 I have to change the hue value back to 75 degrees and I want a saturation value of
05:00 60% along with a brightness value or 59 or so, that's fine.
05:06 And now, I'll select these anchor points right here starting with this one in the
05:10 second to last row, as you can see, the second to bottom row that is.
05:14 And I'll go ahead and select I think a total of one, two, three, four, five
05:18 anchor points. And I'll change the saturation value this
05:22 time to 81, and I'll take the brightness down to 44 in order to produce this
05:26 shadow here. And now, if you want to harshen the
05:30 transition then you would just move the anchor points together like so.
05:35 And if you wanted to soften things up a little bit you would move them back.
05:39 I want things to pretty harsh right there, so I'll press the U key to switch
05:42 back to my mesh tool, and I'll Shift-drag this anchor point to about this location
05:46 so we have a nice sharp edge right there at the top of the stem.
05:52 All right, I'll go ahead and zoom back out so that we can take in more of the
05:55 artwork at a time. Really, I just want to see the entire stem.
05:59 And I'll go ahead and press Ctrl Shift A, or Cmd Shift A on a Mac, in order to
06:02 deselect the artwork. And that is not only the finished stem,
06:06 but that altogether takes care of our pair of peppers.
06:11 In the next movie, I'll show you how to convert a traditional gradient to a
06:14 gradient mesh.
06:16
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Converting a linear gradient to a mesh
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to convert a linear gradient to a gradient mesh.
00:05 And along the way, we'll go ahead and convert a linear gradient that we have
00:09 going in the background into this kind of tabletop effect right here.
00:14 So, I'll go ahead and switch over to my illustration in progress, and then I'll
00:17 press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on the Mac, to zoom out and I'll turn on this gradients layer.
00:22 And you can see that it contains a vertical linear gradient in the background.
00:26 Now, you never know how gradients are going to turn out when you convert then
00:29 to gradient meshes, and so it's always a good idea to keep a copy or your original
00:33 gradients around just in case the frustration factor becomes a little too great.
00:38 So, I'll go ahead and grab that gradients layer and drag it and drop it onto the
00:42 little page icon to create a copy of it. Then I'll turn off the original gradients
00:46 layer very important, because otherwise you'll be selecting the shapes in the background.
00:51 Then double-click on the copied layer, and let's go ahead and call this one mesh
00:55 shadows, and I'll change the color to grass green which will stand out nicely.
01:00 All right now what we want to do is select the rectangle here in the background, and
01:03 it's the same size as the art board, and notice that I'm selecting it with the
01:07 black arrow tool. Then you want to go up to the Object
01:10 menu, and this time you don't choose Create Gradient Mesh, because if you do
01:13 that, you'll go ahead and lift your last settings as you can see here, but you
01:16 will replace all the existing colors inside the gradient which is no good, so
01:19 go ahead and press the Escape key if you are following along with me.
01:25 Then return to the Object menu and choose the Expand command.
01:28 And you have one of two options when expanding a gradient.
01:31 You can specify a number of steps. And what's going to happen in this case
01:34 is you're going to covert the gradient to an object blend.
01:37 What we want though is gradient mesh, quite obviously.
01:40 So go ahead and select it and then click OK.
01:43 Now what we should see here are at least some row lines, but we're not seeing
01:46 anything, and that's because if we take a look at far left side of control panel
01:49 you'll see the word group. So this is one of those infamous
01:54 occasions when Illustrators decide to group everything which is a big problem.
01:58 So go ahead in twirl open the mesh shadows layer, notice we have a group
02:01 right there, twirl it open, inside that we have a clipping group.
02:06 I'll twirl it open. And what we're doing is we're clipping a
02:09 rectangle inside of a rectangle. Which is not the least bit necessary or desirable.
02:14 So grab this guy, that's the mesh. And if you were to meatball it, you'd see
02:18 the word mesh on the far left side of the control panel.
02:22 Go ahead and grab it and drag it and drop it out of the group, so that you see the
02:25 mesh floating freely. And you'll also see a couple of row lines.
02:29 Turns out there's a couple of hidden ones that we need to get rid of as well.
02:33 And then, go ahead and meatball that group, that contains really nothing of
02:36 merit anymore, and then press the Backspace key, or the Delete key on a Mac
02:39 to get rid of it. All right, now click on the mesh in order
02:43 to select it, and I'm going to press the Ctrl and Space Bar keys, that's Cmd and
02:47 Space Bar on a Mac, and drag around this bottom corner so that you can see that
02:50 we've got an extra row line right there. And we've got an extra row line at the
02:56 top of the star and artwork as well. So what you need to do to get rid of it,
02:59 is just go ahead and get your White Arrow tool, then select that point right there.
03:05 Go ahead and zoom back up by pressing Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on the Mac, and press
03:08 Shift Up Arrow a few times to raise it. Now press the U key in order to switch to
03:13 the Mesh tool, and then press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac, and click
03:16 on that row line to get rid of it. All right, we need to do the same thing
03:22 up here at the top, so Ctrl + spacebar or Cmd + spacebar drag, around the top
03:25 left corner of the art work. Press the a key to switch to the White
03:29 Arrow tool, click on that anchor point right there to select it.
03:32 Press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on a Mac to zoom back out, press Shift down arrow a few
03:36 times in order to scoot that line down. Press the U key to switch back to the
03:41 Mesh tool. And then press the Alt key, or the Option
03:44 key on a Mac, and click on that row line to get rid of it.
03:48 And now we have a clean gradient mesh that we can actually work with.
03:52 All right, now let's apply a few modifications.
03:54 I'll press the A key to switch back to my White Arrow tool.
03:56 I'll click on this upper right point, and this top left point as well, to select
04:00 both of them. And I'm going to change their colors a
04:03 little bit, using the HSB sliders. Specifically, I'm going to increase the
04:07 saturation value to 20%. So you want both of those top anchor
04:11 points to be selected. Now, click this one, and Shift click on
04:14 this guy here. We're going to make a pretty big
04:17 modification to it. I'm going to change the hue value from 45
04:19 degrees to 180 degrees. So we're completely transforming that
04:23 color there. This row of colors just fine, but we need
04:26 to Add another Row. By Pressing the U Key to Switch to the
04:30 Mesh tool, and I'll Click right about there in order to (LAUGH) add an
04:34 unfortunately sloping line. To this location.
04:39 All right. I'll press the A key to switch to the
04:40 White Arrow tool and then I'll go ahead and select this guy.
04:44 And what we want to do is make sure these two line up, so I'll press Ctrl+R, Cmd+R
04:47 in a Mac, in order to bring up my rulers. And I'll drag a guideline to snap into
04:52 alignment with this anchor point over here.
04:55 And then I'll go ahead grab this guy and shift drag him up until it snaps into alignment.
05:01 And I think we can, oh, well, I accidentally selected the wrong object,
05:04 so I'm just going to go ahead and lock down that mesh peppers layer.
05:08 And I'll click on this point once again to select it, and I'm going to drag its
05:12 control handle all the way in, just to get rid of it.
05:16 And I'll do the same thing over on this side as well.
05:19 So that we have a truly straight line. All right now press Ctrl+R, Cmd+R on a Mac,
05:23 followed by Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on a Mac in order to recenter my artwork, and I'll
05:27 also go up to the View menu. And choose Guides, and then choose Clear
05:32 Guides, in order to get rid of that guideline.
05:34 because I don't want it anymore. We do still have a row at this location,
05:37 it just have a little bit of screen artifacting going on.
05:41 I need to add a couple of columns. So press the U key to switch to the mesh
05:44 tool, and click about an inch, is that, inwards from the left hand side, and I'll
05:48 do the same over here on the right hand side as well.
05:53 In order to create two column lines at those locations.
05:56 And I don't want these new points to have new colors, so I'll press the A key
05:59 to switch to the White Arrow tool, and I'll Shift click on this anchor point, so
06:03 both of these are selected. And they ought to be the color of this
06:08 anchor point. What is it?
06:10 I have to look it up now. I'll go ahead and select it and switch to HSB.
06:14 190, 35 and change, 70, alright, fine. So, 190, 35, and 70.
06:19 Go ahead and select these two anchor points again.
06:22 And dial in those values if I can remember them.
06:26 190, 35, and 70, as I recall. And that gives us a pretty good match.
06:30 And then I'll go ahead and select this entire row of points here.
06:35 And I'll just click on white, to make them white as you see.
06:39 Then I'll shift click on these two anchor points to deselect them.
06:42 I'll go ahead and drag these guys down, while pressing the Shift key, into about
06:46 this location, pretty close to the bottom of the artwork.
06:50 And I want this edge to be straight, instead of having this bell curve.
06:53 So, I'll go ahead and drag this control handle in.
06:56 And I'll drag this control handle in as well.
06:59 You may get some wavering there. And as you do so, go ahead and drag this
07:02 guy in. And here's my favorite (LAUGH) drag this
07:05 control handle in and notice that we've got this sort of wonky thing where the
07:09 segment comes back out. That's because if you click on that
07:13 segment there, it's control handle's going in entirely the wrong direction.
07:17 So, we need to bring him home by just dragging him in and letting it snap into
07:21 alignment with that anchor point. And now we get this wonderful tabletop
07:26 effect in which we have this sort of focus drift over here on the sides of the
07:30 table, which I think works out really nicely.
07:35 So there you have it folks, one use at least for converting a linear gradient
07:39 into a gradient mesh, here inside Illustrator.
07:43
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Converting a radial gradient to a mesh
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to convert a pair of radial gradients to
00:03 gradient meshes, so that we can turn these elliptical gradients underneath the
00:07 peppers into these more credible drop shadows that you see in the final version
00:10 of the art work. Go and switch over to my illustration in
00:16 progress and I'm going to marquee this gradient right here to select it.
00:20 And I just want to change this angle for aesthetic reasons, so I'll press the R
00:23 key to switch to the rotate tool. Then just go ahead and drag down and to
00:27 the left a little bit. And then I'll press Shift + Right Arrow,
00:31 I don't know three times in a row in order to scoot that guy over.
00:35 Maybe nudge it up a little bit as well. All right, having done that I'm going to
00:38 press the V key to switch to my black arrow tool and I want you to see
00:41 something about these gradients here. If I select them both and then I press
00:45 the G key in order to switch to the gradient tool so that I can see the
00:48 gradient annotator, notice that the beginning of the gradients are off center.
00:55 So they start left of center and continue all the way to the edge as you see here
00:58 in the case of both of those gradients. And the reason that's important is
01:02 because we're going to loose that information.
01:04 So when you convert a radial gradient to a gradient mesh, it ends up being centered.
01:08 So you might as well not do this kind of stuff in the first place.
01:11 All right. I'll press the V key to switch back to
01:13 the black arrow tool. And then I'll go up to the Object menu
01:16 and choose the Expand command. And I'll make sure expand gradient fill
01:20 is set to gradient mesh. Obviously we're expanding the fill as well.
01:23 And then click Okay in order to create those gradient mesh objects.
01:28 And notice at the beginning of the gradients each one of them has shifted to
01:31 the center of the ellipse. But the elliptical shape of the gradients
01:35 has been maintained. So that's the good news.
01:38 All right now we have the usual groups. So notice the word group over here on the
01:42 left side of the control panel. So step one is to go up to the Object
01:45 menu and choose the Ungroup command. And then we end up with clipping groups.
01:50 So return to the Object menu, drop down to Clipping Mask and choose Release.
01:55 And that will end up generating the objects you see onscreen.
01:58 Go ahead and twirl open the mesh shadows layer and meatball that top empty path as
02:01 well as the other empty path right there. So go ahead and Shift Meatball it.
02:07 And then press the Backspace key or the Delete key on a Mac to get rid of those
02:09 extraneous objects. Now, notice here, that we have an opaque
02:14 shadow, which is no good. And the reasons that's happening is
02:17 because, this is a kind of brownish to white gradient that was previously set to
02:21 the multiply and blend modes so that the two shadows interacted with each other.
02:26 And we've gotten rid of the blend mode, now if I click on the word Opacity up
02:29 here on the control panel, you can see that it's returned to normal.
02:33 Now I could just apply multiply to the entire object, or I could do something
02:37 more interesting which is to apply opacity values to the specific control handles.
02:43 And in order to pull that off, I'll press the A key in order to switch to the white
02:46 arrow tool. Then I want you to notice something about
02:49 radial gradients. Notice that we've got what is this a row line?
02:53 Because you always have row and column lines when you're working with gradient meshes.
02:57 But this row line ends up going all the way around and reconnecting with itself.
03:02 Well, no. That's not the way things work with
03:04 gradient meshes. You don't reconnect.
03:07 So, you've got a seam at some point. And it's generally over here on the right
03:12 hand side of the gradient as you're seeing in this case.
03:16 So, unless you want to create a Pac Man, or something along those lines, then you
03:19 don't want these seams coming apart, you want the appearance to be one of continuity.
03:25 So I'll press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac, three times in a row, in order to
03:28 reinstate things there. And instead I'll go ahead and marquee
03:32 what is actually four anchor points, two pairs of coincident anchor points.
03:38 And that ends up selecting the other shadow in the background.
03:40 So I'll just go ahead and lock it down for now, in order to make sure it's out
03:43 of the way. And I also want to Shift marquee this two
03:46 anchor points, as well as these down here.
03:49 And these guys as well. And we want to change their colors from
03:52 white to this brownish color. So I'll press the I key in order to
03:55 switch to the eyedropper. And I'll click inside this central
03:59 ellipse, in order to apply a flat color to the entire gradient.
04:04 Now, go up to the control panel, and change the opacity value to 0%, in order
04:09 to reduce the opacity of these control handles.
04:13 And you may say, well, this area, then, is completely wasted.
04:17 Well, that's true, but it's an area that Illustrator created for me.
04:21 It actually wasn't part of my original ellipse.
04:23 So it went ahead and added a concentric ring farther outside of my original gradient.
04:29 So, you know what I'm going to do, I'll press the A key in order to switch to the
04:32 white arrow tool. And I'll go ahead and marquee these
04:36 anchor points here and Shift marquee the other ones, of course, and then I'll
04:39 change the opacity value for these guys to 10%, so that they're serving some kind
04:43 of purpose where the mesh is concerned. All right, now let's apply a few more modifications.
04:50 I'm going to press the V key to switch to the black arrow tool.
04:53 Select this entire thing, and drag it so it's a little better centered underneath
04:57 the pepper. And then I'll go ahead and zoom in on it.
05:00 And I'll press the A key to switch back to my white arrow tool.
05:02 I'll click on this anchor point right there to select it, and I'll drag it in,
05:06 and what I want to do is simulate the bottom of the pepper shape a little
05:09 better, so that we're tracing around that shape.
05:14 Now, always bear in mind you've got two coincident points over here, so you need
05:17 to marquee them and move them together. And then, edit these anchor points
05:21 independently, because you don't really, truly have a smooth point now.
05:25 You've got two control handles that are out of step with each other.
05:29 And we can just move this guy up a little bit as well.
05:33 Now, what we're ending up doing is bending the spoke lines right here.
05:37 And we're really bending it in the case of this one.
05:40 Turns out we don't really need those spoke lines.
05:42 They're not really contributing anything to the mix.
05:44 So I'll press the U key to switch to the mesh tool.
05:48 And I'll press the Alt key, or the Option key on a Mac, in order to get my minus cursor.
05:53 And then I'll click on that line to delete it, click on this one to delete
05:56 it, and click on this one too. You've got to leave these guys because
06:00 they represent the seam. But now notice if I switch back to my
06:04 white arrow tool that I've lost my anchor points.
06:07 They totally disappeared. So somehow, Illustrator is creating this
06:10 blobby nebulous shape using just a combination of two coincident anchor points.
06:15 It's actually, fundamentally impossible. Well, they're kind of there, they're just hidden.
06:20 To find them again and remake them so that you have control over your shape,
06:23 switch from the pen tool here to the add anchor point tool, which you can get by
06:26 pressing the plus key. Then you see the imaginary points, but
06:31 you gotta add them back in by clicking on them.
06:33 So, click on this anchor point, then click on this one, and then click on this one.
06:39 And now, if you press the A key to switch back to the white error tool, they are
06:42 miraculously there. And I'll go ahead and click off the shape
06:45 and then re-click on it, and now I can drag them around if I need to apply
06:48 further modification. Now I want to do these same things to the
06:53 other shadow. So, I'm going to lock down the one I'm
06:55 working on, unlock the one that I haven't modified yet.
06:58 Press the V key in order to switch to the black arrow tool.
07:00 Use that little square below and to the right of the cursor in order to find
07:04 where the shape is. Click on it to select it.
07:08 And then let's go ahead and drag it over, like so.
07:11 And then I'll press the U key to switch to the mesh tool, and I'll Alt click on
07:15 every one of the spoke lines I don't want, including this guy, this guy, and
07:18 this guy. That would be an option click on the mac,
07:22 and we have to leave these two spoke lines that represent the seam.
07:26 Then I'll press the A key to switch back to my wide-arrow tool.
07:29 I'll click on the interior shape, oh that's right, I lost my anchorpoint.
07:32 So I have to press the plus key in order to bring up the add anchor point tool and
07:36 click on each one of these anchor points to bring them back to life.
07:40 Then press the A key to switch to my wide arrow tool.
07:43 Go ahead and drag these guys to new locations like so, in order to better
07:46 match the form of the pepper here. And I might be going a little too far, so
07:51 I'll grab these guys. I've got to marquee them to select them
07:55 both, and I'll drag this bottom control handle outward like so.
07:59 And I'll drag this upper control handle a little bit farther up.
08:03 And I'll go ahead and move this guy to a better location.
08:06 And I might bring this control handle back like so.
08:11 So we end up with this kind of weird blobby shape here.
08:13 All right, now you want to go ahead and marquee these sets of anchor points.
08:18 Press the I key to bring up the eyedropper.
08:21 Click inside the shape in order to lift that color, which isn't right at all actually.
08:28 What is the color of these points? I'll go ahead and click on one.
08:31 So that I can see. That doesn't convey the color.
08:34 These guys, right there, convey the color.
08:36 And so, if I switch my HSB Vales. They are 5, 65, and 50.
08:42 All right, so I'll go and marquee these ones.
08:44 5, 65, and 50. I will dial in for these.
08:47 I'm not sure why that got lifted wrong. And then, I'll change to opacity of those
08:52 points to 0%, like so, and I'll marquee these guys and I'll change them to 10%.
08:59 So they're making a similar contribution to the effect we're seeing in the
09:02 left-hand shadow. And that, folks, is how you go about
09:06 converting radial gradients to gradient mesh objects that you can modify on a
09:11 molecular basis, here inside Illustrator.
09:15
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Using gradients to cast shadows
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to take our expanded radial gradients and turn
00:03 them into more credible cast shadows. As in the case of this final version of
00:08 the artwork. All right, so here's my illustration in progress.
00:12 I'm going to twirl open the Mesh Shadows layer, and I'm going to unlock the
00:15 left-hand shadow so that I can gain access to both of them.
00:19 And I'll go ahead and meatball, and shift meatball the two meshes, just because
00:23 that's the easier way to work. It's very difficult to marquee the two objects.
00:28 Now, the first thing I want to do, I'll go ahead and zoom in here, is change the
00:31 color, because I don't think this brownish color quite makes sense.
00:36 And I can do that to both of the objects at the same time, by modifying the HSB
00:39 values here inside the Color panel. So, I'll change the Hue Value to 15
00:43 degrees, which makes the shadows a little more yellow.
00:47 If we go any further the map, then it start looking kind of greenish by
00:51 contrast to the very red highly saturated peppers.
00:56 Then I'll take the Saturation Value down to 50% and I'll reduce the brightness to
01:00 35% in order to produce what looks to me to be a more organic color for the shadow.
01:06 All right, now I'll go ahead and shift meatball at the bottom of the two meshes
01:10 here inside the Layers panel to turn it off.
01:14 And I might as well lock it as well just so I can work on the left-hand mesh independently.
01:19 Now, I need to essentially reduce the size of the shadow a little bit, reduce
01:22 its footprint. And I'm going to do that by pressing the
01:26 U key to get the Mesh tool, and I'm going to click inward, like so, in order to
01:29 create a smaller shape. And it again, has no anchor points, just
01:33 these too coincident ones. But you can modify the shape just using
01:37 these two control handles here, by pressing the a key to get the Wide Arrow tool.
01:42 And notice now, that this one control handle has an amazing effect on this
01:45 shape here, that could just flop it all over the place here.
01:49 So, I'll go ahead and drag this guy inward a little bit and then I'll drag
01:52 this guy downward as well. It's the only case, anywhere in
01:56 Illustrator (LAUGH) where these two control handles represent this shape
02:00 right there. It's just amazing.
02:03 Anyway, I'm going to marquee these two anchor points and I'm going to take the
02:06 Opacity value down to 95%. In order to reduce the opacity of this
02:11 shadow just an inkling. Then I'll marquee these two anchor
02:14 points and I'll take their Opacity value, this is going to make a bigger
02:17 difference, down to 75% in order to produce this effect here.
02:22 Now, we want to shadow the cast in that direction.
02:25 And so, I'll marquee these two pair of coincident anchor points, and then I'll
02:30 drag them down like so. So, I'm going down into the left as if
02:34 there's a light source that's up and sort of centered on the peppers.
02:40 And you don't want to take it too far by the way, you don't want the ellipse to
02:43 cross the other shapes. Because then you'll get a very harsh
02:46 transition at the beginning, you just wanted to come very close to them.
02:51 So, we have a little bit of sharpness there, but not too much.
02:54 And then, I'll marquee these two anchor points and drag them down like so, and
02:57 that's going to make only a modest contribution.
03:00 But you can see it looks pretty darn good.
03:02 All right, now let's go ahead and do the same thing to the right-hand pepper.
03:06 So I'll lock down the left-hand shadow, unlock the right-hand one.
03:09 Try to find the shape with the Wide Arrow tool.
03:12 I don't know if that's going to work, so I'll just go ahead and meatball this mesh
03:15 in order to select it. Then I'll press the U key to switch to
03:19 the Mesh tool, and I'll go ahead and click right about there in order to add
03:22 another floppy shape. And I'll press the A key to switch to the
03:26 Wide Arrow tool. Go ahead and move this shape around,
03:29 using the mysteriously powerful control handles.
03:33 And then, I'll marquee these two anchor points right there, actually I'll marquee
03:36 these two anchor points for starters. And I'll change their Opacity to 75%.
03:42 And that way, you can better see what's going on when I take the Opacity at these
03:46 two anchor points down from 100%. Watch the shadow there, down to 95%.
03:52 It just takes a little bit of the weight out of that shadow, and I think produces
03:55 a more naturalistic effect. All right, now marquee these two pair of
04:00 coincident anchor points and let's drag them down and to the right.
04:04 So, this shadow is splaying outward from the other one.
04:07 Again, we don't want this ellipse to cross this shape or we're going to get
04:10 some very harsh transitions. And then go ahead and marquee this point
04:14 right there, these two anchor points actually, and drag them down and to the
04:18 right as well. All right, so that's it.
04:21 I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on a Mac, in order to zoom out from my artwork.
04:25 And I'll also turn on this text that I have ready and waiting, at the top of the
04:29 layers stack. Now, if you take a close look at the
04:33 shadows on screen here, you may notice at certain zoom ratios that we've got a
04:36 little bit of banding going on. But that is merely a screen re-draw
04:41 artifact inside of Illustrator. If you were to export this artwork as a
04:45 TIFF image for example, and open it up in Photoshop as I have done in advance, then
04:49 you'll see that we have absolutely smooth shadows.
04:54 And just so you can see the artwork in more detail, I'll press the F key a
04:58 couple of times and zoom on in. And that, friends, is how you take full
05:04 advantage of the remarkable power of Gradient Mesh inside Illustrator.
05:10
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36. Opacity Masks
Black conceals, white reveals
00:01 In this chapter, we take on Opacity Masks, which I hazard to say, are one of
00:04 the least known features in Illustrator. What they allow you to do is paint in
00:09 transparency, either in an object or a group or a layer.
00:14 And they're best understood in the context of Photoshop.
00:17 So if you know Photoshop, you might know about layer masks, which allow you to
00:20 paint transparency into a layer using a black brush stroke, for example.
00:26 And the same holds true inside Illustrator.
00:28 If you assign an opacity mask to a layer, and then you add a black object to the
00:32 mask, then that black object will create a hole or a conceal, if you will.
00:38 A white object inside of an opacity mask creates a reveal, so that you can see the
00:42 contents of the layer, and then a gray object is going to make that portion of
00:46 the layer translucent. So, you can create a fade effect.
00:52 You can fade a layer in by adding a gradient to an opacity mask.
00:56 Now frankly, it's not a hard feature, you just need to know it's there.
01:00 So here, let me show you where it is.
01:03
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Introducing opacity masks
00:00 In this movie I'll introduce you to the opacity mask feature and I'll also show
00:04 you a couple of uses for it. So let's say that I want to take the
00:07 submarine and cut a hole in it. Because in the back of the sub if I turn
00:10 the sub layer off, you can see the word love, and I want to go ahead and reveal that.
00:15 So I'll turn the sub layer back on. One way to work, would be to take this
00:19 rounded rectangle here that I've created in advance.
00:23 And combine it with this compound shape in the background, in order to create a hole.
00:28 And you can do that by bringing up the Path Finder panel, and then because we're
00:31 working with the compound shape, you have to press the Alt key, or the Opt key on
00:34 the Mac, and click on the minus front icon, in order to produce this effect here.
00:41 The interesting thing to note, though, is this is not a pure hole.
00:44 What we're doing is carving a hole in the path outline and then Illustrator is
00:48 turning around and stroking the inside of that hole as well.
00:53 What if we want to create a hole in everything.
00:56 In all of the attributes, for example, both fill and stroke.
01:00 Well in that case you need to use a opacity mask.
01:03 So I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac in order to undo that change.
01:07 And then I want to go up to the Window menu and choose the Transparency command
01:10 in order to bring up the transparency panel.
01:14 Mine's already up over here on the right hand side of the screen.
01:17 Next, you need to expand the panel by clicking on this up-down arrow icon a
01:21 couple of times. We don't need the check boxes but we do
01:24 need a little more room on screen, so I'm going to click, yet again, in order to
01:27 hide those. This central area right here is where you
01:31 make and modify the opacity mask, starting by clicking on make mask.
01:36 When you do that, you go ahead and turn the top object in the selection into the
01:40 mask, and then it masks everything else that was selected as well.
01:45 Now by default, white represents a reveal, which is why we can only see the
01:49 portion of the sub inside the rounded rectangle, and everything outside the
01:53 rectangle is clipped away, as indicated by this clip check box.
01:59 If you turn the clip box off then you reveal everything outside the shape as well.
02:04 If you want to turn white into a concealing agent instead, that is white
02:08 cuts holes, whereas normally black does. Then you turn on the invert checkbox, and
02:13 you'd end up with this effect here. And then if for whatever reason you
02:17 decide you want to clip away everything outside the rectangle you would turn the
02:21 clip checkbox back on. So I just want you to see all these variations.
02:26 Now coming to terms with these checkboxes can be a little confusing at first, when
02:29 you start using an opacity mask, which is why we'll revisit this topic in future movies.
02:35 But for now, I'm going to turn clip off and leave invert mask turned on.
02:40 I want you to notice something about the mask.
02:42 Notice how it's cutting a hole inside the shape, and it's not getting stroked this
02:46 time around. Now, if you want to modify the location
02:50 of that rectangle, as I do just to make a point here, then you want to switch to
02:53 the opacity mask, And you do that by clicking on this right hand thumbnail
02:57 inside the transparency panel. And that will make the opacity mask active.
03:03 I also want you to notice what happens to the layers panel.
03:06 As soon as I click on the right hand thumbnail, Illustrator goes ahead and
03:09 hides all my layers and shows me just the opacity mask.
03:13 And notice, it even tells me that's the case at the top of the layers panel.
03:16 And you can add as many path outlines as you like to this opacity mask.
03:20 However, you cannot divide the mask into layers, as indicated by the dimmed icons,
03:24 down here at the bottom. Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and take
03:28 this guy and move it upward so that you can see that it's not only cutting a hole
03:32 in the path outline, but it's also cutting a hole in the fill and stroke attributes.
03:37 And that's the difference with opacity mask.
03:40 Also it turns out they're way flexible as we'll see in future movies.
03:44 Anyway, I'm going to press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac, to reinstate the position
03:47 of that rectangle. If you want to return to your
03:51 illustration, you just go ahead and click on the left-hand thumbnail up here in the
03:54 Transparency panel, and then you'll regain access to all your layers once again.
04:00 All right, so I think that's pretty illuminative, but it's not very practical.
04:04 So, I've got another example in here. If you twirl open this fab four layer,
04:07 you'll see that there's this path outline, it's really a rectangle.
04:11 Go ahead and turn it on if you're working along with me.
04:13 And then, I'll go ahead and click on it to select it so that you can see that
04:16 I've added a bunch of anchor points here It's here using the add anchor points
04:19 command and I want to be a wavy mask as well, so that these guys look like
04:22 they're coming out of the water. First thing you need to do is select all
04:27 the objects that you want to mask and you do that by clicking in the top right
04:30 corner of this layer and then I will select all the contents of the layer as
04:33 you can see. And then the top path outline is going to
04:38 become the opacity mask as soon as you click on Make mask.
04:42 Now remember how I was telling you that white reveals, black conceals, so we're
04:45 going to clip away their feet. We're also clipping everything outside
04:49 the shape, because the clip checkbox is turned on.
04:52 So we need to turn that off in order to produce this effect here.
04:56 Then click on the right hand thumbnail. So that we can edit the path outline.
05:01 And go into the effect menu. Choose distort and transform.
05:05 And choose zigzag. And turn on the preview check box to see
05:08 what's going on. Obviously, that's not the wavy pattern
05:11 I'm looking for. So I'll go ahead and switch the point
05:14 setting to smooth. And then, I'll take the size option down
05:17 to two points, and I'll change the number of ridges per segment to two as well, in
05:21 order to produce this effect here. Then click okay, and now you can exit the
05:27 opacity mask. By clicking on the left-hand thumbnail.
05:31 And now I'll press control shift A, or command shift A on a Mac, so you can see
05:34 what's happened. Now let's say I don't really want that
05:37 hole that's carved into the sub. I just want to show you one more thing
05:40 you can do here. I'll click on the sub to make it active.
05:43 And notice the button that was formerly called make mask is now called release.
05:48 And all you have to do is click on it and then the mask goes away.
05:51 And for my part, I figured I'll just go ahead and turn that white rectangle off,
05:55 because at this point we no longer need it.
05:58 And for the sake of the illustration, I'll go ahead and twirl open the sea and
06:01 sky layer. Scroll down to this group object right
06:04 here, go ahead and meatball it to select it, and then drag this little blue square
06:08 up to the sublayer. So that the word love appears in front of
06:13 the sub, where it really belongs. And that friends, is my introduction to
06:17 opacity masks inside Illustrator. We'll see lots more uses for them in
06:22 future movies.
06:24
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Assigning an empty opacity mask to a layer
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create an Empty Opacity Mask and that
00:03 might sound strange, but it's a really common way to work and it requires a
00:06 different approach. In over the course of the few movies,
00:10 we're going to create this fading reflection using a Gradient Opacity Mask.
00:15 So, I'll go ahead and turn off the reflection layer, so that we can recreate it.
00:20 And now, let's make a copy of this bulb and lines layer by selecting it of
00:23 course, here inside the layers panel, and then bringing up the flyout menu and
00:26 choosing Duplicate Bulb Lines. And now, I'll go ahead and double-click
00:31 on this layer, in order to bring up the layer options dialog box.
00:35 I'll call this guy reflection 2, and I'll change the color to orange, because it
00:39 shows up well against this green artwork. Then I'll click OK.
00:43 And I'll grab reflection 2, and move it below bulb and lines.
00:48 All right. Now I'll click in the upper right corner
00:50 of the layer to select all of it's content.
00:52 And then, I'll switch from the Rotate tool to the Reflect tool.
00:56 And I'll Alt+click or Option+click just little bit below the text, like so.
01:01 Maybe right about there, in order to bring up the Reflect dialog box.
01:06 Now most likely, if you've been working along with me, your axis is set to
01:09 vertical, which is going to reflect the art in the wrong direction.
01:13 We want to flip the art across the horizontal axis.
01:15 So go ahead and select Horizontal. If you have the Preview checkbox turned
01:19 on, then you'll be able to see it happen. We don't want to click Copy in this case,
01:22 because we just made a copy of the layer. You want to click OK instead.
01:28 And then, if your letters are a little too far apart, as mine are, just press
01:31 the Up Arrow key a couple of times in order to create just this kind of thin
01:34 layer of glass or whatever the reflective surface is.
01:39 Just to indicate that there's some sort of surface involved.
01:42 And next I'll zoom back out. Now what we want to do at this point is
01:46 make an opacity mask of course. But if I click on the make mask button,
01:50 you can see that I have converted something into an opacity mask.
01:54 And if you want to see what it actually looks like as opposed to just editing it,
01:58 then you press the Alt key or Option key on a Mac, and click on the right hand thumbnail.
02:04 And then you will see what's at work. Although, in my case I can't see what it
02:08 is because it's white on white. So I'd have to change the color of this
02:12 to black by going up to the control panel, and changing the first color
02:15 swatch to black like so. And I can see it's my text.
02:19 And the reason Illustrator threw my text into the opacity mask, is because it was
02:23 the top object in the stack. Obviously, that's not what I want.
02:28 Not even sort of. I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z
02:30 on the Mac a couple of times in order to back up to the point before which I
02:33 created the mask. When you're creating an empty mask, as we
02:38 are here, you typically want to target an entire, big object.
02:42 That is, to say, a group for example, or in our case we want to target the entire layer.
02:48 So go ahead and click on the meatball to the right of refection 2, if you're
02:51 working along with me, to target the layer instead of the objects on the layer.
02:56 And now click Make Mask and you will create an empty mask.
03:00 Now, notice that it appears black. But if I Alt+click or Option+click on it.
03:04 It's not actually black, it's just showing me black because that clip check
03:07 box is turned on. If I turn clip off it suddenly turns white.
03:12 Well that brings up an interesting topic. I'm going to press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the
03:16 Mac once again, a couple of times to back out here.
03:19 If you're familiar with Photoshop, then an opacity mask here in illustrator is
03:23 pretty much the same thing as a layer mask inside Photoshop except that you
03:27 build the opacity mask using vector artwork.
03:31 But one of the big differences is that in Photoshop, the layer mask initially comes
03:35 in as white whereas in Illustrator the layer mask initially comes in is black.
03:40 That is to say everything gets concealed. If you don't want to work that way by
03:44 default here's what you do. Here inside the transparency panel, go to
03:47 the flyout menu and turn off this weirdly named command here.
03:51 New opacity masks our clipping, and that will ensure that in the future, you're
03:55 revealing everything. You're leaving everything visible when
04:00 you go ahead and click Make Mask. And notice by default, the Clip checkbox
04:03 is now turned off. And I prefer to work this way because
04:07 it's much easier to see the contents of the layer if it's visible, if
04:10 everything's not immediately getting hidden.
04:14 Notice one last thing here, how reflection 2 has an underline.
04:18 Whether you see a flat underline or a dashed one, that indicates that there's
04:21 an opacity mask applied to that layer, which is very handy, because that way you
04:25 know what's going on, where the transparency is coming from, when you go
04:28 to Edit to file later on, because, otherwise, this kind of artwork can get a
04:31 little bit confusing. All right.
04:37 So that's how you assign in an empty layer mask to an entire layer.
04:40 In the next movie, I'll show you how to draw inside that mask.
04:44
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Drawing inside an opacity mask
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to draw directly inside an opacity mask.
00:04 Now notice here inside the transparency panel, I can't see my opacity mask, and
00:08 that's because all the artwork is deselected.
00:11 Now you might be tempted at some point, knowing just by looking at this underline
00:15 here, that this layer does contain and opacity mask.
00:19 You might assume that you could click in the upper right corner of the layer to
00:22 select all the artwork on the layer, but that's not enough to gain access to the
00:26 opacity mask. Notice there's no right hand thumbnail
00:30 here inside the transparency panel, and that's because I didn't apply the mask to
00:34 the contents of the layer. I applied it to the layer itself.
00:38 And so what you need to do is target the layer by clicking on its circular
00:41 meatball, and then you'll be able to see the opacity mask thumbnail.
00:46 Next I'll go ahead and click on it to select it, and then I'll scroll down
00:49 here, so that I can see this light bulb. And the reason things are turning gray at
00:54 a point is because this artwork extends out into the art board.
00:57 I'll go ahead and grab my Rectangle tool, although you can use any tool you like.
01:01 So you can use the Pen tool, you can use editable text as an opacity mask.
01:06 The only limitation is that they've all got to be organized on a single layer.
01:11 Anyway, I'll go and select that Rectangle tool.
01:13 And then I'll drag, like so, inside the light bulb.
01:17 And notice what we end up getting here. If you zoom in a little bit and press
01:21 Ctrl+H, or Cmd+H on the Mac, in order to hide the selection edges, you can see
01:25 that I've got this transparent outline around the rectangle, but I'm not hiding
01:29 anything in the rectangle. And that's because I've got a white fill,
01:34 which reveals, and a black stroke which is concealing.
01:38 I'll go ahead and increase that line weight value to 20 points so you can see
01:41 what I mean. So we're cutting completely through that
01:44 artwork, like so. Now, I regard it personally as quite
01:47 dangerous to use strokes to mask objects inside of an opacity mask.
01:53 I try to avoid it, because it's just a lot more predictable if you work without strokes.
01:57 So I'm going to go ahead and change the stroke from black to none, like so, and
02:01 then I'll go ahead and change the fill from white to black.
02:07 And notice by the way, that this is a standard weak black.
02:10 I'll go ahead and Shift click on that first swatch in the Control panel.
02:13 And you can see that the CMY values are all set to 0, and the K values are at
02:16 100%, which works just fine. That is an absolute whole, by the way, so
02:21 you don't need a rich black to pull this off.
02:24 Now let's say that you want to draw on opacity.
02:27 I'll go ahead and switch to the Ellipse tool this time around, and I'll go ahead
02:29 and draw out from the center, while pressing the Shift and Alt keys, so I'm
02:32 creating a circle in this case. This would be Shift and Option on the Mac.
02:36 And notice that the darn thing disappears right after I draw it.
02:39 That's because I've hidden the selection edges.
02:42 So, I'll press Ctrl+H, or Cmd+H on the Mac, in order to bring it back.
02:46 And now, I'll go up to the control panel, click on the first swatch, and change it
02:49 to white. And that's all there is to it.
02:52 Now I'm creating a reveal once again, and I'm allowing the contents of the layer to
02:55 show through. Now, you can fill a shape with any color
02:59 you like. So if I were to draw yet another circle
03:02 from the center outward like so, a little smaller this time around, I could change
03:06 it to something like red, and I'm going to create some translucency, as you
03:09 can see here. The problem is, with working with colors,
03:14 it's very difficult to predict the outcome.
03:16 Notice if I switch to yellow, things are almost completely revealed.
03:20 But if I switch to cyan, they grow a little dimmer.
03:22 And it has nothing to do with the various inks, by the way.
03:26 Because you're not hiding one ink and revealing another.
03:28 Illustrator's just calculating a grayscale version of that color, and
03:32 using it to mask the scene. What you're better off doing is working
03:37 with these gray values right here. So let's say you want to create a half reveal.
03:41 Then you would switch to this guy right here, which is K 50%.
03:45 That's the most important part of it. And now you're dimming the contents of
03:48 the layer by half. If you wanted to dim it by more, than you
03:51 would increase the black value, in this case to 80%.
03:55 If you wanted to reveal more, than you would decrease the K value.
03:59 In this case I'm taking it down to 20%. Another way to work, if you prefer, is to
04:04 stick with 100% black, like so, which goes ahead and applies another conceal.
04:09 And then if you want to let off a little bit, then reduce the opacity value.
04:14 For example, if I take it down to 50%, then I've got a 50% reveal going as well.
04:19 Which in my opinion makes things a little easier to predict.
04:22 All right notice, if I twirl open this item, the opacity mask, I reveal all my
04:26 path outlines. And you can even name them.
04:29 So I could call this guy square for example.
04:32 Or you could go ahead and turn them off if you want to keep them around, but get
04:34 rid of their contribution to the mask, and you can even rename the mask if you'd like.
04:39 I'm going to go ahead and call mine fade, because eventually that's what I'm
04:42 looking for, Then when you're done, just go ahead and click on the left-hand
04:46 thumbnail in order to return to your layered illustration.
04:50 And that's how you draw directly inside an opacity mask, here inside Illustrator.
04:56
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Fading artwork with a gradient opacity mask
00:00 In this movie we'll assign a gradual fade to our artwork by adding a gradient to
00:04 the opacity mask, and this has to be one of the best uses for opacity masks that
00:08 there is. Press Ctrl zero to zoom out here a little
00:13 bit so I can take in more of my artwork, and then I'll go ahead and switch over to
00:16 the rectangle tool. I'll Meatball the layer, like so, and
00:21 then I'll click on the thumbnail in order to switch to the opacity mask.
00:26 And I'll draw a rectangle about yea big, just so it's big enough to cover all of
00:30 the layer here inside the art board. I notice that my object has a stroke, so,
00:35 I'll go ahead and set the stroke to None. And my fill is solid white as by default.
00:41 I'll go ahead and switch over to the gradient panel here.
00:43 And you can see I have a white to black gradient as by default.
00:47 I'll just go ahead and click on it to apply it to my artwork.
00:50 Now, it's currently at the wrong angle, and I want to make another adjustment as well.
00:54 I'm going to go ahead and expand the gradient panel like so.
00:58 And I'll click on the reverse gradient icon, so that the gradient starts black
01:01 and ends white, which is the way that I'd prefer to work.
01:05 Now I'll go ahead and zoom back in a little bit here.
01:07 And I'll press the G key to switch to the gradient tool, so that I can see my
01:11 gradient annotator on screen, and I'll go ahead and drag from the bottom of the art
01:15 up to the top of the upside down letters right there.
01:21 And I'm pressing the Shift key as I do, and then as soon as I release, notice
01:24 that I create this nice gradual fade from full opacity up here at the top, to
01:28 absolute transparency at the bottom. Now I am leaving some of my artwork
01:35 revealed down here in the art board, but it's not going to print, so that doesn't
01:38 bother me. Right now I'll go ahead and center my
01:41 artwork and press the V key to switch back to the black arrow tool.
01:45 The last thing I want to do is reduce the opacity of this layer to about 50% so we
01:49 can see through even the most opaque elements.
01:54 Thing is though, you don't want to change the opacity value up here in the control
01:58 panel, or over here in the transparency panel, because if you do, if I change one
02:02 of those values to 50%, notice that I actually make the artwork more opaque
02:05 than it was before, and that's because I'm not reducing the opacity of the
02:09 artwork, of the layer itself, I'm reducing the opacity of the opacity mask.
02:18 And that may seem a little twisted, although it's exactly what we did in the
02:20 previous movie. And what it means is you're actually
02:23 reducing the density of the mask so that you're revealing more of the layer itself.
02:28 Now that can be very useful, but it's not what we want in this case, so I'm going
02:32 to change the opacity value back to 100% and then I'll go ahead and click on the
02:36 left hand thumbnail to return to my layered artwork, and now I'll change the
02:39 opacity value for the targeted layer to 50% in order to produce this effect here.
02:48 And I'll press Ctrl Shift A or Cmd Shift A in a Mac to deselect the artwork.
02:52 And that's all there is to it, friends. That's how you fade an entire layer of
02:56 artwork by assigning a gradient to an opacity mask here inside Illustrator.
03:02
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Nesting one opacity mask inside another
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to take advantage of a nested opacity mask,
00:04 applied to a single object inside a layer.
00:07 What this will allow us to do, is to assign an additional fade to just the
00:11 reflected text. So I'll start things off by clicking
00:15 inside that reflected text. If you're working along with me, you
00:19 should see an orange base line above the letters because, after all, they are reflected.
00:24 Then go to the transparency panel, and just FYI, another way to make a mask is
00:28 to double-click in the right hand thumb nail.
00:31 And you'll end up not only creating an empty mask, but selecting it, as well.
00:36 Now, I'll go ahead and zoom out here a little bit, and I'll press the M key to
00:39 switch to the rectangle tool. And I'll draw a rectangle like so around
00:44 that bottom type. And then I'll switch over to my Gradient
00:47 panel once again. And click inside the gradient slider in
00:50 order to apply that default, white to black gradient.
00:54 And then I'll click the Reverse Gradient button in order to send it in the other direction.
00:58 And now we'll go ahead and zoom back in here.
01:01 And I'll press the G key in order to switch to the Gradient tool and bring up
01:04 my gradient annotator. And I'll go ahead and drag from about
01:09 here to here while pressing the Shift key in order to create a strictly vertical
01:13 gradient and that ends up creating this effect here.
01:18 So what I have, once again, is a nested opacity mask, because we're assigning an
01:22 opacity mask to the text and then the text exists inside of a layer that has
01:26 its own opacity mask. In any event, go ahead and switch back to
01:32 the transparency panel, and then click on the left-hand thumbnail in order to
01:36 switch back to the layer document. And the reason the left-hand thumbnail is
01:41 exclusively white, by the way, is because the text is white.
01:45 So we're just seeing white text on a white background.
01:47 Now I want you to know a couple of things here.
01:50 Notice if I twirl open the reflection tool layer that this top object which is
01:53 named for the text itself, green light clean light, has an underline indicating
01:57 that it employs an opacity mask. So again both the layer, and this object
02:03 use a mask. I'll go ahead and twirl that closed for a
02:06 second and compare that to the old version of that layer.
02:10 Notice that its first layer does not have an underline, and therefore does not use
02:14 an opacity mask. So what's going on?
02:16 Well I'll go ahead and turn that layer on, turn this one off.
02:19 There is a fade going on inside this text but I handled it differently.
02:23 I'll go ahead and press the V key to get my black arrow tool, click on a text to
02:26 select it, and press the G key to switch to the Gradient tool.
02:29 You can see the culprit is a gradient that I assigned to the fill of the text
02:32 from the appearance panel. And so, if I double-click on this color
02:37 stop here, you can see that its opacity value is set to 50%, so the gradient
02:40 itself contains the translucency information.
02:45 So, you can work it any way that you like, I just want you to bear in mind
02:48 that the underline, again, whether solid or dashed, is a dead giveaway that you
02:51 have an opacity mask assigned. All right I'll go ahead and turn that layer
02:56 off, and I'll turn my new layer on. Just one more thing, because we have an
03:01 opacity mask assigned to the entire layer, as well as reduced opacity value,
03:05 any object I add to this layer will be affected by both the mask and the opacity setting.
03:12 So for example, I'll just go ahead and draw a rectangle.
03:15 Currently it's filled with a white to translucent gradient so that's not really
03:17 not going to give us a good sense of what's going on.
03:20 I'll press the comma key in order to assign a solid fill.
03:24 And then I'll change that fill color to let's say, bright red just so that it
03:28 stands out. And you can see that this red rectangle,
03:31 even though its blend mode is normal and its opacity value is 100%, is fading
03:35 across the art work. And if I were to move it down by pressing
03:40 the V key to switch to the black arrow tool and then of course dragging the
03:43 rectangle, you can see that it fades even more toward the bottom of the layer,
03:47 thanks to that whole layer opacity mask. All right, I'll go ahead and delete that
03:53 object and press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on the Mac in order to center my artwork, and
03:56 there you have it. A few different but highly effective ways
04:01 to employ opacity masks here inside Illustrator.
04:05
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37. Liquify and Envelope
Two ways to apply free-form distortions
00:00 In this chapter, we'll take a look at two methods for applying free form
00:03 distortions inside of Illustrator. The liquifying tools and the envelope commands.
00:08 The liquifying tools allow you to paint distortions directly into the document window.
00:14 Thing is, there's static distortion. So in other words, you're permanently
00:17 modifying the path outlines. Now among the things you can do is shove
00:21 stuff around using the warp tool like so. You can also inflate certain regions
00:26 using the blow tool. And you can take a standard star and turn
00:30 it into a dramatic starburst using the crystallize tool.
00:34 Meanwhile, you've got the dynamic envelope commands, which allow you to
00:38 distort objects with a little more control.
00:43 So you can take bunch of objects and place them inside of an envelope, and
00:46 then you distort the envelope without harming the original objects, which you
00:50 can get to any time you like. Plus, they're both a whole lot of fun, as
00:55 you'll learn in the following movies.
00:58
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Introducing the Warp tool
00:00 All right, here's the final version of the artwork, just so you can see it on screen.
00:03 In this movie, I'll show you how to use the foremost of the Liquify tools.
00:08 Which is the Warp tool. I'll go ahead and switch over to this
00:11 base version of the artwork. Which contains a place piece of imagery
00:15 that I created in Photoshop. And if you're wondering how I made this
00:19 silhouette of a horse with wings, you can check out Deek's Techniques 041, which is
00:23 called Putting Wings on a Horse. What we're going to do is convert the
00:28 horse to vector art using Illustrator's image trace feature.
00:32 And then, we'll use the Warp tool in order to modify the path outlines.
00:36 So the first thing you want to to do is go up to the Control panel and click on
00:40 the Image Trace button. In order to trace the artwork, if you get
00:45 this alert message that badly advices you to lower the resolution of your artwork,
00:48 just go ahead and click OK. Its telling you that the tracing might
00:53 take a long period of time, all of like two seconds, as you can see here.
00:57 Now, Illustrator seemed fit to trace both the black portions and the white portions
01:01 of the artwork. That's not what I'm looking for.
01:05 I want to drop the whites out. So I'll go up to the Control panel, and
01:08 click on the Image Trace panel icon, in order to bring up that panel.
01:12 And then, I'll go ahead and twirl open Advanced, and I'll drop down to this
01:16 check box Ignore White, and turn it on. In order to get rid of the whites in the
01:22 background, so we just see the black horse set against transparency.
01:27 The hairs and the tail and the mane are a little bit fragile for our purposes, so
01:31 I'm going to increase the threshold value.
01:34 So that we're tracing more the dark colors inside the artwork, and that's all
01:37 there is to it. Now you can go ahead and close the Image
01:41 Trace panel in order to get it off screen.
01:43 All right, I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Shift+A or Cmd+Shift+A on a Mac to
01:47 Deselect my artwork. And then, I'll switch to the first of the
01:51 Liquify tools, as I was saying, called the Warp tool.
01:54 And the Liquify tools are strangely located over here with the Width tool.
01:59 So if you click and hold on the Width tool, which is not a Liquify tool, nor is
02:03 it a Distortion tool of any kind, then you'll see right below, is a list of all
02:07 seven Liquify tools, from Warp all the way down to Wrinkle.
02:12 And you may wonder why I call them the Liquify tools, when the world liquify
02:15 doesn't appear anywhere inside of Illustrator.
02:19 The reason is that's what they're called in the help documentation.
02:22 So I'm going to go ahead and release on this flat out bar here, in order create a
02:26 little liquify toolbox. And I'll switch to the second tool over
02:30 which is a Warp tool. And now notice if I start dragging inside
02:33 the artwork, for example I drag over that star, I end up warping the star.
02:38 So, ultimately the Warp tool allows you to smear paths around, which is great if
02:42 you want to take geometric paths, like this star here, and give them a little
02:46 bit of wave, or actually paint with them as well.
02:50 I could also paint along this ground in order to give it a bit of wave.
02:56 But you may notice all the while here, what I'm not warping is either the horse
03:00 or the text, and that's because you can just warp standard path outlines.
03:06 You cannot warp specialty objects, such as the live trace object, which is the
03:10 horse, or the editable text. Notice also, as I'm dragging here, I'm
03:15 warping not only the ground, but I'm also warping the sky in the background.
03:20 You can control exactly what gets warped and what doesn't by selecting your artwork.
03:25 So, if I press the Ctrl key, or the Cmd key on the Mac, to temporarily get my
03:29 Black Arrow tool, and I click on, for example, the ground and then I release
03:32 the Ctrl or Cmd key, and I start dragging, once again, over the ground,
03:36 notice this time I'm warping the ground exclusively and I'm not warping the sky
03:39 at all. So, let's say I want to warp the horse,
03:45 which is eventually what I want to do here.
03:47 I'll go ahead and Ctrl click or Cmd click on its outline and I'll start dragging
03:52 inside of it, and Illustrator tells me that the selected artwork contains play start.
03:58 True. Which must be embedded prior to using the
04:00 Liquify tools. Also true, but terrible advice.
04:04 The reason is, even though you can use the Liquify tools.
04:07 On embedded pixel based images. It is a very arduously slow process.
04:12 It's painfully slow. And so, if you're going to Liquefy a
04:15 pixel based image, you're better off doing that using the Liquify Filter
04:18 inside Photoshop. If you're going to Liquify the artwork in
04:22 Illustrator, you want to convert it to path outlines first.
04:25 And that's what I'm going to do. So, I'll go ahead and click OK, in order
04:28 to hide that message, and then I'm going to press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the
04:32 Mac, as many times as it takes to get rid of all the liquification I've done so far.
04:39 So if you've been working along with me just make sure that your star looks
04:42 normal again, and that the horse is still traced as it is now in my case.
04:47 Then go ahead and twirl open the horse layer and meatball that image tracing
04:51 right there. We want to keep it, we don't want to get
04:54 rid of it, so press Ctrl+C or Cmd+C to copy it and then turn off the original.
05:00 And then press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on the Mac, in order to paste the copy.
05:05 Then go on to the Expand button in the Control panel, and click on it, and
05:08 that'll go ahead and convert the tracing to a group of paths as you can see here.
05:13 Now we've got both the black paths and the transparent paths.
05:17 The ones that were formerly traced around the wide areas.
05:19 We want to get rid of the transparent ones.
05:21 So go ahead and twirl open the group, scroll your way down to the end of the
05:25 group list. You'll see this compound path right here,
05:28 that doesn't have any fills associated it, it's just a bunch of outlines.
05:32 Go ahead and Meatball it. Like so, and then go up to the Control
05:35 panel, click this Down Pointing Arrowhead.
05:38 Make sure it's set to All. And assuming it is, go ahead and click in
05:41 the Select Similar Objects icon in order to select all the Transparent Paths, and
05:44 then press the Backspace key or the Delete key on the Mac to get rid of them.
05:51 Now we have a few other weird little paths here.
05:54 They all occur in the tail, so I'm going to go ahead and zoom in here.
05:56 And notice, if I meatball this guy, we've got this tiny little path right there.
06:03 And it should be united with the big one next to it, as is the case for this next
06:06 path down, this little guy right there. This path is a little different.
06:12 I'll go ahead and meatball it, and notice that it's a little disconnected from things.
06:17 So press the A key. In order to get my White Arrow tool.
06:19 And I'll go ahead and drag it up and to the right just a little bit so it's
06:22 overlapping the rest of the tail. Then you want to meatball the entire
06:26 group in order to select the whole darn thing.
06:28 Bring up the Path Finder panel, which you can also get by choosing the Path Finder
06:33 command from the Window menu, and click on Unite, in order to fuse everything
06:37 into a single compound path. Which is going to be the easiest thing to
06:43 work with. Then go ahead and double-click on its
06:45 name, and change the name of the path to horse.
06:48 And now let's keep a copy of it, since we had to do a little bit of work on it, by
06:51 pressing Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on the Mac. Turn off the original and press Ctrl+F,
06:57 or Cmd+F on the Mac, to paste a copy. And let's go ahead and call this guy
07:02 liquified, because eventually he will be liquified, after all.
07:06 And then I'll press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on the Mac, in order to center my zoom.
07:10 And now notice with the horse selected. If I switch back to that Warp tool, I can
07:15 now warp it as much as I want just by dragging inside the shape.
07:21 Now, obviously, that's not the effect I'm looking for, so we'll go ahead and press
07:24 Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on the Mac, a few times in order to reinstate the good version of
07:28 my horse. In any case, that's how you go about
07:32 using the Warp tool, as well as, how you go about using any of the other Liquify
07:37 tools; by dragging directly inside the document window, to modify static path outlines.
07:44 In the next move we'll makes some actual aesthetically pleasing modifications to
07:48 the artwork.
07:49
Collapse this transcript
Brush size, Detail, and Simplify
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to adjust the preference settings associated with
00:04 the Liquify tools in order to achieve the best possible results.
00:08 And along the way we're going to bulk out this winged horse so it looks more like
00:11 the true Pegasus. Which after all it's not a variety of
00:15 creature its more analogous to a Greek god, it's one of Medusa's kids.
00:20 At least, that's what it says on Wikipedia.
00:23 So, I'll switch back to my illustration here.
00:26 And I'm going to zoom in on the animal's head for a second, and I'm also going to
00:30 turn on this layer called Guides and Eye, and it contains the guide that we're
00:34 trying to match. So I want to basically drag the head up
00:39 in order to match that cyan guideline. And I think I zoomed in a little too far,
00:45 so I'll take it down just a little bit here.
00:47 And now what I'm going to do is modify the size of my brush.
00:51 So all of the Liquify tools share a common brush size and you can change it
00:55 by double-clicking on any one of them. So I'll double-click on the Warp tool, in
01:00 order to bring up the Warp tool Options dialog box, and notice that you can
01:03 modify the width and height settings independently, so you can create an
01:06 elliptical brush. You can also adjust the angle of that
01:11 brush if you like. I'm going to be sticking with circular
01:14 brushes for what it's worth. It's just easier to get this stuff done.
01:17 So I'm going to change the Width value to 300 points and Height value to 300 points
01:21 as well and then I'll click OK in order to create this ginormous brush and now
01:25 I'll press the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on the Mac, to get my black arrow tool.
01:31 Now click on the outline on the horse in order to select it, in that we'll only
01:35 distort the horse and now I'll drag up on it.
01:40 And notice how extremely gooey it's getting.
01:42 We're losing all kinds of definition because we're losing a lot of anchor
01:46 points as I move things around here. That's a big problem.
01:51 So I'm going to go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on a Mac, as many times as it
01:54 takes to regain my original horse. And then I'll double-click on the Warp
01:59 tool icon once again. In order to bring back that dialog box.
02:04 Now, the thing you need to know is, anything you modify up here at the top of
02:07 the dialog box, where it says Global Brush Dimensions.
02:11 That affects every single one of the Liquefy tools.
02:15 So any time you modify these settings for one of the Liquefy tools, you do so for
02:19 the other ones as well. Everything below that area, from Warp
02:23 Options down, affects just the active tool.
02:26 And notice things start off with detail and then we have simplify.
02:30 And the idea behind these options is that if you crank up detail, then you're
02:34 allowing finer and finer control. So you have less space between each one
02:39 of the final anchor points. Doesn't really seem to matter much though
02:44 in the case of Warp. Now you can play with this option if you
02:47 want to, but I'm going to advise that you just leave it alone.
02:51 Whereas, Simplify which is just supposed to just get rid of extraneous anchor
02:54 points that don't serve any purpose is actually the one that's doing a big
02:57 number on our path outlines. It's the one that's removing anchor
03:01 points like crazy. You can crank it down if you want to.
03:05 To a lower value or you can just turn the darn thing off.
03:08 I recommend you turn it off. And you'll see that as a result, we're
03:11 going to get a ton of anchor points, but we're also going to get a much better
03:14 looking result. And we can always go back and simplify
03:18 our final path outline with way better control later on down the line.
03:23 So for now, I just recommend you turn Simplify off.
03:26 And then click OK. And now notice when you drag the horse's
03:29 head up, we're still stretching it and all that good stuff.
03:33 But it's turning into a long, gooey piece of taffy anymore.
03:37 We've got a lot more anchor points to work with.
03:40 Now I don't want to keep dragging around with such an enormous brush.
03:43 So I need to modify its size. Well you don't want to have to revisit
03:46 the dialog box every time you want to change a brush size.
03:49 So instead, here's what you do. You press the Alt key, or the Option key
03:53 on a Mac, and you drag to the left to make the brush skinnier.
03:57 Then you drag to the right to make it wider.
04:00 If you drag down while you have the Alt or Option key pressed, you're going to
04:03 make the brush shorter. If you drag up, you're going to make it taller.
04:08 I want to control its size proportionally, so in that case you
04:11 want to add the Shift key. So if you Shift+Alt+drag down-left,
04:15 you'll make the brush smaller. If you Shift+Alt or Shift+Option drag up-right.
04:20 You'll make the brush bigger. I want to make it smaller, and I'm just
04:23 going to adjust it's size on the fly. I don't really care exactly what size it
04:27 is, and then I'll start dragging down on these portions of the jaw line,
04:31 associated with the horse. And we don't want this much sort of
04:35 droopiness on the mouth, I don't think so I'll go ahead and drag this up.
04:40 And I might reduce the size of my brush even further.
04:43 And do this kind of work here. Now, it's not necessary that you exactly
04:46 match the guide if you're working along with me.
04:50 The guide is just here for guidance, after all.
04:53 And in fact, if you leave some rough patches here and there.
04:56 Then you'll be able to take greater advantage of the other tools that we'll
04:59 use in the following movie. So, I'll go ahead and zoom out I'll
05:02 Shift+Alt+drag or Shift+Option+drag upright in order to make my brush bigger.
05:08 And I'll drag out the mane and I'll drag up this region as well in order to
05:12 increase the size of that fore wing. So the idea is what we're seeing here.
05:18 Is this little hump of wing goes with this wing over in this area.
05:22 And then this guy is part of the forward wing I suppose.
05:26 So I guess this one that I'm working on right now is the rear wing.
05:31 Now, looks like I'm trying to work too quickly here, because, you know, you're
05:35 watching me and stuff, it makes me nervous, but I'll go ahead and try to
05:38 calm down and do a better job on this stuff.
05:42 This looks pretty good, I think. And now, I'll increase the size of my
05:45 brush, so it's really a matter of going back and forth.
05:48 Now, I'm going to leave these wing details for now, because we'll come back
05:51 to them, because there's another way to work that's going to give us some good
05:54 control, but I will increase the size of my brush and drag these guys out.
05:59 Come on, all of you, come, come, come. It's just these top wing details, these
06:02 feathers up here that are going to give us problems.
06:05 Or so I thought, because I'm having problems all over the place.
06:08 Anyway I'll go ahead and reduce the size of my brush again Shift+Alt+drag, or
06:11 Shift+Option+drag down to the left. And then I'll make my brush bigger and
06:16 drag these details up like so. And again you don't have to get
06:21 everything exactly right, just look at me after all, I'm making all kinds of weird
06:25 decisions right, left and sideways here. And I've been through this many times,
06:30 this particular piece of artwork. So I should be well versed in it after all.
06:35 All right, anyway. I'll go ahead and take these guys up as well.
06:39 We're down here at the haunches on the rear legs, that is to say.
06:42 And I'll go ahead and move this up and move these portions of the feet and legs
06:47 up as well. And we'll come back to some of these
06:50 details, because we can take advantage of the other tools in order to basically
06:55 finesse our results and get things exactly the way that we want them to be.
07:02 All right, these guys can come out just a little more I think, and then we've got
07:04 the front legs to worry about. And you know, if you're getting tired of
07:08 watching this video, by all means go ahead and skip to the next one, and I'll
07:11 just be working away on this one. I just want to give you sense that all
07:15 this is possible, I don't. Want to cop out here and just leave you
07:19 wondering how in the world I managed to get to the very bitter end.
07:23 And it also gives you a chance to see sort of what's going on with these tools,
07:26 and why they might be useful. And I think I might be making them look
07:30 like something of a chore but I really like them.
07:33 I think they're really great. Just think if you had to sit there and
07:36 hand draw all these various anchor points and control handles here it would take a
07:40 much longer time and. Based on my experience with hand drawing
07:46 paths with the pen tool, it's a lot more of a chore.
07:49 It not only takes longer, but it's less pleasant over the long haul, even though,
07:52 I must admit, I do that kind of stuff all the time.
07:57 All right, let's go ahead and take this up, and it looks like, over the course of my
08:00 mindless chatter, that I've managed to do a halfway decent job.
08:05 So that's it. That's one way, anyway, to warp a path
08:07 outline to make it better fit your needs. That's also how you adjust the Liquefy
08:12 tool Preference settings in order to achieve the best possible results here
08:16 inside Illustrator.
08:19
Collapse this transcript
Liquifying an isolated portion of a path
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to selectively liquefy some portions of a
00:03 path outline independently of others, with the help of the Lasso tool.
00:08 So you may recall that I didn't really get these top feathers into place.
00:14 So I'll press the Shift and Alt keys, or Shift and Option on the Mac, in order to
00:16 make my brush bigger. And I'll press the V key, to temporarily
00:20 switch to the black arrow tool. Click on the path outline to deselect it,
00:24 and then switch back to the Warp tool here.
00:28 And then I'll go ahead and drag these details up.
00:31 And even if I try very hard to make sure that I'm getting things into alignment,
00:35 I'm going to have problems with these bird fingers, or whatever they are,
00:39 basically separating away from each other.
00:44 And moving independently, and then I'll end up warping them incorrectly with
00:47 respect to each other. Now I could get some of the work done
00:51 while everything in the path is selected, just by working with a smaller brush.
00:56 But you may find it easier to select some of the segments independently of others.
01:03 Now the thing that you have to watch if you go that route, is that you don't
01:05 introduce little weird crimps into your path outline, because that's the biggest
01:09 thing that can end up going wrong. Anyway, I'm trying to get some of the
01:14 work done upfront her before I switch to selecting individual segments using the
01:18 Lasso tool. Because you really want to do as much
01:22 work as possible on a whole path basis. Anyway, I'll go ahead and take these guys
01:27 up and down and so forth until things look like they're aligning pretty well.
01:32 Now let's focus on the top portion of this wing, here.
01:36 Notice then, I've gotten the crook, right here, into the right place, and I'll go
01:40 ahead and drag some of these details in as well.
01:44 And now let's imagine, after fooling around down here a little bit, I want to
01:48 get that top finger, the top right finger, if you will.
01:53 I don't know if it's really a finger or not.
01:55 But I want to be able to modify it independently.
01:58 Well then, you can select the individual segments that you want to modify.
02:02 You could do so using the white arrow tool, but because we have so many
02:05 segments to select, and they're right next to each other, it's easier to use
02:08 the Lasso tool. So I'll go ahead and grab that Lasso tool
02:13 there, from the top of the toolbox, and then I'll drag around this detail right
02:17 here in order to select it. As soon as I release, I'll end up
02:21 selecting some of the star in the background as well.
02:25 And that's because the Lasso tool is going to select everything inside the
02:28 lassoed region that falls on any unlocked layers.
02:31 So, all we need to do to correct the problem is lock down that evening layer
02:35 like so. And now, switch to the Warp tool, over
02:38 here in the tear off toolbox. And I'll go ahead and drag these details up.
02:44 And you can see that even if I drag over here, I'm not modifying the next door
02:48 finger, I'm just modifying this guy right there.
02:53 And then if it turns out I want to modify one side independently of the other, I
02:56 can just select that side as well. For example, I could switch back to the
03:00 Lasso tool, and I'll tell you, if you work this way, you're really going to
03:03 save yourself a lot of headache if you memorize two keyboard shortcuts.
03:08 One of them is Q for Lasso tool. So even though the Lasso tool comes to us
03:12 from Photoshop, and it's got a keyboard shortcut there of L, just remember you're
03:16 using the key that looks like a lasso, which is a Q, in order to select the tool
03:19 in Illustrator. And then, to switch back to the Warp
03:25 tool, it's Shift+R. Just in case you want to know.
03:28 And so I could just lasso this region right there, press Shift+R in order to
03:31 switch back to the Warp tool, and just scoot it over a little bit.
03:35 So you have an incredible amount of control when you're using these tools.
03:39 All right, I press the Q key once again, to switch to the Lasso tool.
03:42 And I'm going to go ahead and lasso this region here, and then press Shift+R in
03:46 order to switch back to the Warp tool. And I'll go ahead and move these guys in
03:50 like so. Now you have to be careful about the
03:53 transition between the selected and deselected points, because if you make
03:57 huge modifications at that one area right there, you're going to get a very sharp corner.
04:03 As you see indicated here. Which can be useful.
04:06 I'm going to press Ctrl+Z, because I don't want it.
04:08 But you may find it useful under other circumstances.
04:11 Now, somehow, these points are selected. Oh, I know why.
04:14 When you press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac, all the points become selected.
04:20 So, we'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z again, in order to undo that recent change.
04:25 I'll zoom out a little bit, and I'll press the Q key in order to switch to the
04:28 Lasso tool. And I'll go ahead and marquee all these
04:32 points down to, lets say about there. And I'll press Shift+R to switch back to
04:37 the Warp tool, and I'll go ahead and move these guys in.
04:40 This guy goes up. This guy goes over.
04:43 I'm bringing too much of that right-hand side, I'll take care of that problem in
04:46 just a moment, and that moment is now. Go ahead and press the Q key in order to
04:50 switch to the Lasso tool, lasso these guys right there, press Shift+R to switch
04:54 back to the Warp tool, and move it out. Then press the Q key again, in order to
05:00 switch to the Lasso tool. So, at this point, I'm just doing the
05:04 same thing, over and over again, by the way.
05:07 So, a lot of repetition, but I do want you to see how it works, and how it is
05:11 possible to get this stuff done pretty quickly.
05:15 Now, I say pretty quickly, because it does take some time.
05:17 These are manual edits, after all, they're not commands that you apply or
05:21 other kinds of dynamic modifications like that.
05:24 These are old school, static, painterly modifications.
05:28 But you may find them to be very helpful, depending on how you work inside the program.
05:33 All right, I'm going to go ahead and move these guys up a little bit, like so.
05:38 There may come a time where this just doesn't seem to be working the way that
05:42 you want it to. For example, I could, at this point right
05:46 there, just decide that, you know, I'm motoring through it, I'm going to keep
05:50 making this Warp tool work under any and all circumstances.
05:55 But really what you might want to do, on some occasions, is just go back to the
05:59 old way, by pressing the A key, for example, to get the white arrow tool.
06:05 And then you can just marquee those points that are going to be difficult to
06:07 shove back in there. Press the Backspace key, or the Delete
06:10 key on the Mac, to get rid of them. Press the P key to switch to the Pen tool.
06:15 And just go ahead and connect these guys together the old-fashioned way.
06:19 All right, I'm also going to old-fashionably get rid of this anchor
06:22 point right there, because I don't need it.
06:26 And I'll zoom back out, and I'll switch back to the Lasso tool by pressing the Q key.
06:32 And I'll go ahead and marquee these details right there.
06:36 Just make sure I got everybody selected, I did.
06:37 Press Shift+R in order to switch to the Warp tool.
06:41 And I'll increase the size of my brush, because I really want to take this guy in.
06:45 (LAUGH) And I think this is going to be another one of those losing battles here,
06:49 where I just take in that tendril out too far.
06:52 And I'm not going to be able to get it back in there without making it all lumpy.
06:56 But we'll see. Might as well try.
06:58 And I'll go ahead and move these guys in. Now, you'll notice this mass
07:02 prolifiration of anchor points here, and that is not something to worry about at
07:06 this point in time. We'll deal with it in a future movie,
07:11 because this many anchor points crammed in this small space can present you with
07:14 problems later, especially when you're trying to edit the path outlines.
07:19 But Illustrator thankfully includes a Simplify command that works much better
07:23 than the Simplify option that we saw in the previous movie.
07:27 All right, I'm going to go ahead and zoom in here, reduce the size of my cursor,
07:30 and I'm going to paint these guys out. So you can see, it's really analogous to
07:36 smearing the path outline around. Very much like liquefying inside of Photoshop.
07:42 But again, we're able to do it inside the Document window, instead of having to
07:46 work inside of a filter. Just a few modifications left to go here.
07:51 I'll press the Q key in order to switch to the Lasso tool.
07:55 I'll go ahead and marquee, hmm, these anchor points right there.
07:59 Press Shift+R, in order to switch back to the Warp tool, go ahead and drag these
08:04 details down, like so. And smear this guy back in, to the best
08:10 of my ability here. And go ahead and take this down as well.
08:15 Just go ahead and zoom in a little bit, reduce the size of the brush, and go
08:20 ahead and move these guys out. And we'll take that up as well.
08:25 Notice at this point, the deselected anchor point is turning into a cusp.
08:29 So it's important to note that it's the deselected point that turns into a corner
08:33 on you. So I'll go ahead and press Q key, and
08:36 select those guys again, and just see what we can do by pressing Shift+R.
08:40 So we're making some pretty darn detailed changes here.
08:43 And go ahead and move these guys out. And then finally, I'll just press the V
08:46 key to switch to the black arrow tool. Select the entire path outline, like so.
08:51 Switch back to the Warp tool by pressing Shift+R, and I'll see if I can very
08:56 carefully modify those details to get rid of the lumps.
09:01 (LAUGH) And you can see now, we have just a ton of anchor points.
09:04 Again, we will be taking care of that problem later.
09:07 But they seem to proliferate, by the way, on a bigger basis when you're using a
09:11 smaller brush. So, you seem to get a lot more anchor
09:15 points when you're using smaller brushes, and when you're zoomed in, as well.
09:19 So again, something to bear in mind. Now I don't need to match my guide this carefully.
09:23 So I'll just go ahead and zoom out at this point.
09:25 And take in the big picture, and I think everything's looking pretty darn good.
09:30 Press Ctrl+Shift+A, or Cmd+Shift+A on a Mac, in order to deselect the path outline.
09:35 And that, friends, is how you painstakingly liquefy one portion of a
09:38 path outline independently of another, using a combination of the Lasso tool
09:43 along with the Warp tool, here inside Illustrator.
09:47
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The Twirl, Pucker, and Bloat tools
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to work with the next three Liquify tools, Twirl,
00:04 Pucker and Bloat. We'll start things off with the Twirl
00:08 tool, and I'll just demonstrate how it works here for starters here.
00:12 Then I'll show you a really great use for it.
00:14 So, I'm Shift Alt dragging, or Shift Option dragging, in order to increase the
00:17 size of my brush. And then I'll go ahead and switch to the
00:20 next tool over, the Twirl tool. And notice that none of the rest of the
00:23 Liquify tools offers a keyboard shortcut by default, although you can give them
00:27 one using the keyboard shortcuts command if you like.
00:32 Anyway I'm going to switch over to Twirl, and then I'll press the Ctrl key or the
00:35 Cmd key on the Mac to temporarily get my Black Arrow tool, and I'll go ahead and
00:38 click on the horse to select it. And now notice if I Click and Hold, well
00:44 that works way too quickly, doesn't it? So, I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or
00:49 Cmd+Z on the Mac to Undo that change. And I'll double-click on the Twirl tool,
00:53 or you can just press the Enter key or the Return key on the Mac as well, in
00:56 order to bring up the Twirl tool options dialog box.
01:01 And I want you to drop down to one of the tool specific options here, Twirl Rate.
01:06 And go ahead and take it down to 1%, because otherwise things happen way too quickly.
01:13 And also go ahead and turn off the Simplified check box while we're here,
01:16 and then click on the OK button. And now notice if I Click and Hold that
01:21 things twirl counterclockwise if, while clicking and holding I press the Alt key
01:25 or the Option key on the Mac, then I twirl in a clockwise direction.
01:31 And that's very important to note, because if you have the Alt key down
01:35 before you start dragging, then you end up changing the brush size, instead of
01:39 rotating in either direction. So, what you want to do if you want to
01:44 twirl in the clockwise direction is Click and Hold for starters, and then press the
01:48 Alt key or the Option key on the Mac, in order to reverse the direction of the twirl.
01:54 That still happens too quickly for my taste, so I'm going to once again
01:57 double-click on the Twirl tool, and I'm going to change the intensity to 10%.
02:02 Now, it's a crying shame that this particular option affects all of the
02:05 tools at once, because 50% intensity works great for the Warp tool, but it
02:09 doesn't work very well for any other tools.
02:14 Anyway, I'll go ahead and take it down to 10 and then I'll click OK.
02:17 The portion of the horse that we really need to twirl is the tail here.
02:21 And so I'll go ahead and increase the size of the brush a little bit more.
02:24 And then I'll click, and it looks to me like I want to go in the other direction.
02:29 So, as I'm Clicking and Holding, I'll press the Alt key or the Option key on
02:31 the Mac in order to give the tail a little bit of a counterclockwise twirl.
02:37 Next comes the Pucker tool, and this time around, you want to double-click on the
02:40 tool icon. And you want to take the intensity down
02:44 to 2%, is typically what works best, 1 or 2% in my experience.
02:49 And then turn off the simplify check box once again, and go ahead and click OK.
02:54 And now I'll zoom in down below the tail, and I'll reduce the size of my cursor
02:57 quite a bit by Shift+Alt dragging down right just Shift+Option drag on a Mac and
03:01 Pucker's going to do what you think. It's going to go ahead and pucker the
03:07 selected details inward, which is going to allow me to displace this corner to a
03:11 better location. And notice, if I click outside, I'll go
03:15 ahead and increase the size of my brush, if I click outside then I will actually
03:19 bloat the shape instead of pucker. So, you click inside with Pucker in order
03:25 to pucker things, you click outside with a smaller brush, I think, in order to
03:29 bloat like so. And so Pucker can be pretty useful
03:33 especially with small brushes for creating little corners at a specific
03:36 location as I'm doing here. The opposite tool is Bloat, so it's
03:40 really up to you which tool you use, because you can really get the job with either.
03:46 But I'll go ahead and double-click on the Bloat tool, and turn off the simplify
03:49 check box. Because you have to do that for each and
03:52 every tool independently, and then click OK.
03:56 And now notice if I click inside the shape then I nudge the details outward.
04:02 I'll go ahead and do so with a bigger brush like so, and you can also drag with
04:05 the tool if you want to, in order to paint outward as you drag.
04:10 As I'm doing here, or if you want to move a detail inward, as I'll do with these
04:14 guys, then you click outside the selected shape that is, in order to bloat the
04:18 negative space essentially. So, this is looking pretty good.
04:24 This guy, this element right there wants to go in, so does this, this one can go
04:27 outwards, so you can see, you can get worked up pretty quickly with this tool.
04:32 It's actually, probably, the best tool, other than the Warp tool in terms of
04:36 getting practical work done very quickly. And I'll go ahead and move this detail
04:41 here in, I'll move this out. This obviously needs to go out quite a
04:45 bit here, so I'll go ahead and click inside this foreleg or whatever it is,
04:49 it's actually one of the rear legs. And I'll go ahead and click down here to
04:53 move these details outward, and maybe click in there to raise the negative space.
04:58 So again, you don't have to exactly match the guideline, it's just there to provide
05:03 you with an idea of what I've done before.
05:07 And of course, I'm not matching my guidelines all that well, at this point
05:10 in time either, so I don't expect you to do it.
05:14 If you're working along with me, of course, you may not be, you may be
05:17 working on your own file to try to see what you can do with it.
05:21 I'll go ahead and click a few times over here in what is now actually the foreleg.
05:25 I kind of like this little dip in the hoof there, so I think I'll leave that.
05:29 And I'll click in order to, increase the size of these details, and click and drag
05:33 to move this stuff out. Gone too far with this detail, and I
05:37 don't know if I'm going to be able to smooth it or not here.
05:41 Sometimes what you can do with the Pucker tool, is reduce the size of the cursor
05:45 and then drag down a region in order to smooth things out.
05:49 That may work for you, or it may not, in my case I think it's made kind of a mess
05:53 of things. Think I'll just go ahead and Undo by
05:56 pressing Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac, and press the Q key to switch to my Lasso
05:59 tool and marque those anchor points right there.
06:03 Then grab the Bloat tool again, maybe, increase it's size this time and just
06:07 move that stuff out. That looks pretty good to me.
06:10 All right, let's go ahead and select everything, once again and then move the
06:12 knee out a little bit. And I selected everything, by the way, by
06:16 pressing the Ctrl key or the Cmd key on the Mac in order to get the Black Arrow
06:19 tool and then clicking on the path outline.
06:23 And I'll go ahead and move these guys out and go ahead and tuck these details in.
06:27 Again, depending on the size of your brush you may end up getting kind of
06:30 lumpy details. Larger brushes are less likely to give
06:33 you lumpy details but They also mean that you're modifying more of the path outline
06:37 at a time, so you end up with less control.
06:41 All right let's go ahead and zoom out, we don't need to be this close I don't think.
06:45 Increase the size of the brush as well, I'll go ahead and move this guy in.
06:49 Really want to move these neck details out so that the animal has a big, thick neck.
06:54 And let's see what else we have. This is getting a little bit lumpy there,
06:57 so I think I'll attack it with a smaller brush.
07:00 I want to move the jaw out, so I'll go ahead and Click and Hold right around
07:04 these areas here. And I think I want the ears to be a
07:08 little thicker as well, so I'll go with this ear in particular with a smaller
07:13 brush in order to thicken it up. And finally, this guy looks like he wants
07:19 to go out, that is finally where the head's concerned.
07:22 Now we need to deal with some details here inside the wing, specifically this
07:26 little crook right here needs to be a little smoother.
07:29 And it needs to move out as well, so I'll go at it with a smaller brush, and then
07:33 I'll attack this area right here with a larger brush, reduce the size of my brush
07:37 again and move this down. So, that Shift+Alt or Shift+Option key
07:43 trick for changing the size of the brush comes in really handy.
07:47 I'm now looking at the left hand side of the wing, and there's just this little
07:50 detail that I want to scoot over. Then I think I might do that with the
07:53 everyday average Warp tool. Although, notice now what's happening,
07:57 because I reduce that intensity value to 2%, the Warp tool isn't doing anything.
08:02 So, I'll press the Enter or the Return key on the mac in order to bring up the
08:05 Warp tool options dialog box. And I'll restore the intensity value to
08:10 50%, which, as I say, works great for the Warp tool.
08:13 It's way too much for the other tools, however.
08:15 And I'll reduce the size of my cursor a little bit, maybe scoot these guys out if
08:18 I can. And that's looking, pretty darn good.
08:24 So, that's the kind of very selective changes that you can make using the
08:27 Twirl, Pucker and Bloat tools. In the next movie, we'll take on the
08:32 three remaining Liquify tools, which are Scallop, Crystallize, and Wrinkle.
08:37
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The Scallop, Crystallize, and Wrinkle tools
00:00 In this movie I'll show how to work with the 3 remaining liquify tools which will
00:04 Scallop, Crystallize and Wrinkle. I'll demonstrate things along the
00:09 underside of the horses neck here and I'll start by switching over to the scale
00:12 tool and I'll increase the size of my cursor so that you can really see to
00:15 what's going on. So, notice, if I drag inside the selected
00:20 shape, then I get this pattern of scallops that are moving inward toward my cursor.
00:26 And if I press Ctrl Z, or Cmd Z, on a Mac and drag outside the shape, the scallops
00:30 are still bending out toward my cursor. So they're always bending toward that
00:35 cross shape, right there in the middle of the brush.
00:38 However, they're now moving out of the shape instead of inward.
00:42 Go ahead and press Ctrl Z, or Cmd Z again, and switch over to the Crystallize tool.
00:46 This time, if I drag inward, then I'm forcing spikes outward like so.
00:53 But notice that they still have that same sort of scallop shape associated
00:56 with them. But instead of the scallops moving inside
00:59 the shape, the spikes move out. And then if I press Ctrl Z and drag out
01:04 of the shape like so, then I force the spikes inward away from my cursor.
01:09 So they're really very similar tools in that regard because they're creating the
01:13 same shapes as you drag along. The difference is this, I'll go ahead and
01:18 press Ctrl Z or Cmd Z on a Mac, and I'll double-click on the scallop tool in order
01:22 to bring up the options dialog box here.
01:25 And notice these check boxes down here. Notice that the brush effects in tangent
01:31 handles and out tangent handles. In case you're wondering what in the
01:34 world Illustrator is talking about, tangent handles is yet another name for
01:38 Bezier control handles, meaning that we've got the handles that are going into
01:41 an anchor point and out of an anchor point, so we're affecting the handles and
01:45 not the points themselves. Even though we're generating points all
01:50 over the place. And notice that the anchor points option
01:53 is dimmed. Well if you turn off either of the other
01:55 two check boxes, then it lights up. And then you can turn it on and the other
02:00 one dims. So you can only have two out of three of
02:02 these check boxes selected. At any given time.
02:05 Why is beyond me, but I just want you to know that's true.
02:09 I'm going to cancel out here. And then, I'll double-click on the
02:12 crystalize tool, and you can see that it by default just affects anchor points and
02:16 it doesn't affect handles at all. So as a result, let me show you what that
02:22 looks like. If I drag outside the shape.
02:25 Notice that I'm forcing those spikes in continuous directions away from my cursor
02:28 so they're always moving away from the cursor.
02:32 I'll press Ctrl Z or Cmd Z on a Mac to undo that change and now I'll grab the
02:35 scallop tool and drag with it and notice that this time we have more leeway in
02:39 terms of the angle at which the scallop's moving.
02:44 As opposed to necessarily moving toward the cursor, they're moving in the angle
02:48 of my drag. So notice that I'm the smushing scallops
02:51 away from my brush as I paint. All right, I'll go ahead and Ctrl Z, or Cmd
02:55 Z on a Mac, in order to undo that change. So, for what it's worth.
03:00 That's what's going on, sort of a very tiny little difference between those
03:03 tools, but it can make a difference in terms of the appearance of your modified art.
03:09 I generally prefer to use the Crystallized tool of the two of them.
03:13 Now I'll grab the Wrinkle tool, which is just a wacky tool.
03:16 And what it does is notice it kind of, does this sine wave thing as you're
03:20 dragging along the path outline. So it's creating this almost audio wave.
03:26 And the reason it's wrinkling the path in that direction, is I'll go ahead and
03:29 press Ctrl Z or Cmd Z on the Mac, so I can demonstrate the difference, is
03:32 because of an option that's a work by default.
03:37 I'll go ahead and double-click. On the Wrinkle tool.
03:39 And you can see that the Wrinkle options by default have horizontal set to zero,
03:43 and vertical set to a 100. If I were to crank horizontal up to a 100
03:47 as well, and click the OK button, then you can see that I'm wrinkling the path
03:51 outline all over the place. So you have that kind of control if you
03:56 want it. Now we don't want anything like that
03:58 where this artwork is concerned. So I'll just go ahead and press Ctrl Z,
04:02 or Cmd Z on a Mac, to undo that change. What I decided to do, you don't really
04:06 need to, but I thought it lended the creature a little bit of variety where
04:09 the edge detail was concerned. I went ahead and grabbed the crystal tool
04:14 and double-clicked on it. And I'm going to reduce the intensity to 10%.
04:19 And I'm not going to worry about the other options.
04:21 We'll visit them in the next movie. And I'll click OK.
04:25 And now of course I'll reduce the size of my cursor, and I'll just go ahead and
04:28 drag right along there. Now what you want to make sure you don't
04:32 do is what I just did. You want to make a decision about which
04:35 side of the path outline you're going to be on.
04:38 You don't want to cross the path outline because then you'll change suddenly from
04:42 the spikes going outward to the spikes going inward, so I'll press Ctrl +Z or
04:45 Cmd + Z on the Mac, and then drag like so in order to move those spikes outward
04:48 right next to the ear. And I can't say they look exactly like hair.
04:55 But again we end up getting some variation in the edge detail which I
04:59 think can help out here especially when we're viewing the art work form further
05:03 away and we are not this close. There is of course the viewer will not be
05:08 when they actually see the art work for themselves and it also helps take care of
05:12 weird details like this where we just have rectangles that were created by the
05:16 image tracing feature. So again it just gives us some variation.
05:25 And also you might find that it helps in stylizing your artwork.
05:29 That's good enough for there. Let's move on to the other hairy part of
05:32 the animal. Which is the tail.
05:35 So I'm going to drag around here in order to add just a little bit of
05:38 crystallizing, might increase the size of my cursor a little bit which will result
05:42 in bigger spike, as you can see here. And I'll go ahead and move down to this
05:48 region as well, might as well spike this area up, although, cross the path, not
05:52 good, undo. Go ahead and drag, like so, maybe spike
05:56 up some of this a little bit and, you know, you can do anything you like.
06:04 It's really not an experiment in realism as I think is fairly evident at this point.
06:09 So, just cross the path outline, gotta pay more attention to what I'm doing.
06:13 You can't just free-form it like that. How to stay on the inside if I'm going to
06:17 get consistent results, or on the outside if I want scalloping, but of course I don't.
06:22 So I'll go ahead and drag along here, and I don't think I want to drag along its butt.
06:27 But this looks pretty good. Go ahead and zoom in.
06:30 Maybe we want just a little bit of hair detail along the bottom, like so, and
06:34 maybe toward the front of the animal. After all, it's a mammal, so it's got.
06:39 Hair all over its body. I kind of like him having a little bit of
06:42 burns, you know, sideburns, if we go down his jawline here, because they're all the
06:46 rage even for horses. So I think that pretty well takes care of
06:51 the horse, and you have a sense of whats going on at least with the Scallop,
06:54 Crystallize, and Wrinkle tools. In the next movie, I'll show you a way to
06:59 use a Crystallize tool to create an awesome custom starburst effect.
07:05
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Simplifying a path; creating a custom starburst
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to do a couple of things.
00:02 First we'll simplify the path outline for the horse and then I'll show you how to
00:06 create a really great custom star-burst effect using a combination of the
00:10 Crystallize and Scallop tools. So, if you're working along with me,
00:16 twirl open the guides and eye layer, and then, turn on this path, which represents
00:20 the creature's eye, and turn off warped, which is that custom guideline.
00:25 And then you can twirl that layer closed. Then as long as we're here, go ahead and
00:29 unlock the evening layer. Now press the V key to switch to the
00:33 Black Arrow tool. And notice that we have a weak black, I
00:36 need to take care of that. So I'll go ahead and click on the horse's
00:39 path outline. Shift+Click on the black swatch up here
00:42 in the control panel. And switch over to CMYK in the flyout menu.
00:47 And I'll dial in 50% for the C, M, and Y values, in order to produce the rich
00:50 black you see on screen. All right, notice that we have way too many
00:55 anchor points at work here. And that's a function of having turned
00:59 off the Simplify checkbox for the various Liquefy tools that we used.
01:03 Now, that Simplify checkbox doesn't give you very much control, and it happens on
01:07 the fly. It's a static control instead of allowing
01:10 you to see it happen on the fly, which is the entire function of the Simplify command.
01:16 To get to that command, go up to the Object menu, choose Paths, and then
01:19 choose Simplify. And you can see, for what it's worth, if
01:23 you loaded D keys, I gave you a keyboard shortcut of mash your fist C.
01:27 Go ahead and choose the command. And notice that curved position by
01:31 default is set to 50% which completely and utterly ruins the path outline.
01:36 Now the good news is it takes the number of anchor points down from 3,003 in my
01:39 case, to 2,014. But the price is way too high.
01:43 What I recommend you do with this command is max it out.
01:46 Just go ahead and crank that curve precision value up to its utter maximum
01:49 which is 100% and notice that still reduces the number of anchor points by
01:53 almost a factor of two thirds which is a pretty huge saving.
01:58 And then you want to nudge the value down.
02:01 Now, you can go down to as low as something like 90%, and you are going to
02:04 really get rid of a lot of anchor points there, but, you're also going to get rid
02:07 of a lot of definition too, and you don't want that to happen.
02:11 You only want to get rid of the unnecessary anchor points, not the
02:14 necessary ones. And in the case of my artwork, that
02:18 happens about 96%. You might be able to take it down to 95
02:21 or 94%, if you like, you can try that out and see what happens.
02:25 But in my case, I've reduced the points from 3,000 plus to 995.
02:30 So I'll go ahead and click OK, in order to accept that change and then you want
02:33 to check around those crystallized details and the hair, to make sure that
02:36 nothing's gone wrong with the control handles.
02:40 because sometimes, the control handles can leap away from a cusp point and
02:43 you'll have some weird details inside of your final artwork.
02:47 But in my case everything looks good. You'll want to check the tail too by the way.
02:52 All right now that we've done that let's check out the custom star burst.
02:55 I'll go ahead and zoom out, quite a bit actually, from my artwork and I'll click
02:58 on the star to select it. This is a standard 12 pointed star with a
03:02 center point that I added from the Attributes panel, using this icon.
03:06 And because the star has an even number of spikes, that center point is accurate.
03:10 I'll go ahead and hide the Attributes panel.
03:13 And we want to create a copy of this shape so we don't ruin the original, by
03:16 pressing Ctrl+C, or Cmd+C on a Mac, then twirl open the evening layer, and turn
03:19 off the original star, just so it's protected.
03:23 And then press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on a Mac to paste in that copy.
03:27 Next double-click on the Crystallize tool icon in order to bring up its options,
03:31 and dial in a width and height value of 700 points each.
03:36 So we're going to have a huge brush. Now notice we've got this complexity setting.
03:40 It's related to detail. The detail value, if we raise it, will
03:43 give us more points in our Custom Star effect.
03:47 So will complexity but complexity does so with a little more variety which is why I
03:50 like it better for this effect. So I'm going to take the complexity value
03:55 up to four. And then, click OK.
03:57 The other values are fine as is. And then click and hold inside the star
04:01 until the shape grows like so. I don't want it to grow that much so
04:05 press Ctrl+Z, or Cmd+Z on a Mac, to undo that change.
04:09 And I'll just click until every other spike is a slightly different length.
04:14 And then you want to click and hold again until the thing grows almost to its
04:18 maximum size. So two click and holds in order to create
04:21 this effect here, and then reduce the opacity value to 25%.
04:26 Now press Ctrl+F, or Cmd+F on the Mac, to paste another copy of that star, and
04:29 let's reduce the size of the brush this time.
04:33 By double-clicking on the tool and reducing both the height and width values
04:36 to 500 points. Notice the intensity is set to 10%, as it
04:39 was in a previous movie. Go ahead and click OK.
04:42 And now, click and hold in the star shape, a couple of times once again, in
04:46 order to produce this effect here. And reduce the opacity value to 50%.
04:52 Now you want to press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F, to paste another copy of the star.
04:56 This is our third copy. Click and hold as long as it takes to
04:59 make that star nice and big. You'll notice it kind of stops moving at
05:02 a point. Then switch over to the Scallop tool,
05:05 and double-click on it, and change its complexity to four once again.
05:10 Click OK. And then, click and hold inside the star
05:13 in order to produce this effect. And your results may vary slightly.
05:17 That's totally fine. Go ahead and change the opacity value,
05:20 this time to 75%, and then press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F for the last time to paste in a
05:24 fourth copy of the star, and just click and hold for a second or two in order to
05:28 produce this effect here. Now get the Black Arrow tool and marque
05:34 like so in order to select all four of the star shapes.
05:39 Now that also selects the big rectangle around the entire art board.
05:43 So shift click on it to deselect it. So you should see the red of the bleed
05:46 without seeing a rectangle on top of it. And then you want to go up to the Object
05:51 menu, choose Blend, and then choose Make. Or you can press Ctrl+Alt+B, or
05:56 Cmd+Option+B on the Mac. And that'll add a single step in between
05:59 each one of the custom star shapes. And then you can click off the shapes in
06:04 order to deselect them and end you up with this amazing custom star burst
06:07 effect here. Which would be a real chore to create
06:11 with a Pen tool or any other of the other drawing tools inside of Illustrator, but
06:16 is amazingly easy to create using a combination of a star along with just two
06:20 Liquefy tools, Crystallize and Scallop.
06:25
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Applying an envelope-style distortion
00:00 In this movie, I'll introduce you to envelope distortions, which we'll use in
00:04 order to create this rolling grass effect.
00:07 It's also affecting the live editable type as well, as you can see right here.
00:12 So I'll go ahead and switch over to our illustration in progress and then I'll
00:15 select this gradient rectangle toward the bottom of the document and I'll
00:18 Shift+click on the text to select it as well.
00:21 Now we're going to create an envelope style distortion based on a common
00:24 warping effect. So just to give you a sense for the
00:28 differences between the warp styles inside of illustrator, I'll go up the
00:32 Effect > Warp > Arc Upper. And I'll go ahead and dial in a bend
00:37 value of 25% and turn on a Preview checkbox.
00:40 And you can see, that that goes ahead and dynamically bends both the rectangle and
00:44 the text on the fly, which is a really great thing.
00:48 But when you are applying a dynamic war, you only have so many styles to choose from.
00:53 What if you want to use this Arc Upper Effect as a jumping off point for your
00:56 own custom distortion. In that case, you need to apply an
01:01 envelope style distortion, which is also dynamic by the way, just a little more
01:05 difficult to use. So I'll go ahead and cancel out of here.
01:09 And I'll go to the Object > Envelope Distort > Make With Warp, which as you
01:14 can see, Adobe has given a keyboard shortcut of mash your fist W.
01:20 And as soon as I bring up this dialog box here, it's very much like what we were
01:23 seeing a moment ago. It'll come up with Arc selected by
01:27 default, just so happens I last applied Arc Upper and I went ahead and set the
01:31 bend value to 25%, as we just saw a moment ago.
01:35 Now I'll turn on a Preview checkbox and we end up achieving the exact same effect.
01:39 Now click OK in order to apply that effect to the illustration.
01:44 And so the great thing about this style of warp is that we can customize it using
01:48 the White Arrow tool. So I'll go ahead and scroll down a little
01:52 bit here, and I'll press the A key to switch to the White Arrow.
01:56 And notice that we have a sequence of anchor points around the envelope.
02:01 So basically what Illustrators done is it's taken the rectangle in the text and
02:05 placed it inside of an envelope. And we now have the option of modifying
02:09 the shape of the envelope and that will affect its contents and kind.
02:14 So I'll go ahead and click on this anchor point right there.
02:17 And it's very important that you click on it first to select it.
02:20 You can't just start dragging it. And then I'll drag it upward while
02:23 pressing the Shift key until I get to about this point, and I'll drag this
02:27 control handle down. So what we're modifying, by the way, is a
02:32 mesh, just like the mesh that we saw back in the gradient mesh chapter.
02:37 The only difference is that it affects the shape of the stuff inside of it, not
02:41 the color. Now, I'll go ahead and drag this anchor
02:44 point down to about here. And it's not really important that you do
02:47 exactly what I'm doing, but it is a little hard to predict the results.
02:51 You will have to play around in order to get effects that look something like mine.
02:56 And now I'll go ahead and drag this down but unfortunately I dragged down an
02:59 unfortunate anatomical detail here inside the horse.
03:03 So I'll go ahead and press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac to undo that change.
03:07 And I'll lock down the horse layer like so.
03:10 And then, I'll go ahead and fish around for an anchor point on my envelope.
03:14 And if you can't find it, all you need to do is press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac, and
03:18 then you'll actually see the shape of your envelope on screen.
03:23 And this is the point I'm looking for. And now I'll drag it down to here, and
03:27 I'll go ahead and drag the control handle up like so.
03:30 So I'm trying to create a kind of rolling hill effect.
03:33 And I'll press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac so you can see the effect that that has
03:36 on the contents of the envelope. And I'll go ahead and drag this guy
03:41 upward and drag this control handle down and I'm grabbing the star this time,
03:45 which I definitely don't want to do. So I'll twirl open the evening layer and
03:50 I'll lock down that blend as well. All right.
03:54 Having locked down everything I think might get in the way, I'll click here on
03:57 this curving envelope segment, and then I'll grab that anchor point and drag it
04:00 down to this location. So we're just trying to get a general
04:04 rolling hill effect. You can mess around with it a little more
04:07 if you'd like. And if you feel like the text is starting
04:10 to bend inwards, which sometimes it looks like it's trying to do, then you can just
04:13 drag one of the anchor points out a little bit, as I've done here.
04:18 All right, so that's how you apply a custom envelope style distortion based on
04:22 a pre-existing warp effect. In the next movie, I'll show you how to
04:27 modify the contents of the envelope, so that, for example, the text isn't nearly
04:32 so squished.
04:34
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Editing the contents of an envelope
00:00 In this move, we'll edit the contents of our envelope distortion.
00:03 To create this kind of crabgrass effect along the top of the rolling hills as
00:07 well as squish the type. So it appears to be the proper height.
00:12 I'll go ahead, and switch over to my document in progress here.
00:14 And I'll press the V key, to switch from my black arrow tool.
00:17 And I'll click on the envelope to select it like so.
00:20 Now, I want to draw your attention to these two icons, up here at the beginning
00:24 of the control panel. One says Edit Envelope and it's currently
00:28 active, meaning that we're editing the shape of the envelope.
00:32 And the other one reads Edit Contents, which will allow us to the edit stuff
00:35 that's inside the envelope. I'm going to go ahead and switch over to
00:39 that option. And notice now that the rectangle and the
00:43 text are selected. And they've been nudged over slightly to
00:46 the left. And that's a function of having nudged
00:49 that anchor point in the upper left hand of the envelope.
00:53 And it's not really a problem for our purposes because as long as text looks to
00:56 be centered on screen, then everything is fine.
01:00 Now let's say you want to modify these objects.
01:02 Well, unfortunatly, if I click off one and click on one again, for example this
01:06 rectangle, I end up selecting both of them.
01:09 As long as I'm using the black arrow tool, anyways.
01:12 So the easiest way to gain access to one object or the other is to go ahead and
01:15 twirl open a layer and then you'll see this envelope item.
01:19 And you can twirl it open, as well, to gain access to each of it's contents, but
01:22 I want you to notice something. This little twirly triangle and your
01:27 ability to twirl open the envelope, are not consistent.
01:30 That option is only available when you're editing the contents.
01:34 If you switch over to Edit Envelope, then your ability to twirl open this envelope
01:38 object inside the Layers panel disappears, I can't defend that.
01:42 I have to say, it's just the way it is. Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and switch
01:46 over to Edit Contents again. And notice now, I get the little twirly
01:50 guy, and it automatically twirls open in my case, because that's the way I left it.
01:55 And now I'll go ahead and select the rectangular path by meat balling it here
01:58 inside the Layers panel, and that selects it independently.
02:02 To add the crabgrass, or whatever the grass effect might be I use the
02:06 Crystallize tool, so you can combine these various distortion functions as
02:09 much as you like. I'll go ahead and double-click on the
02:13 Crystallize tool to bring up its options. Notice, in advance here I've changed the
02:18 width and height of the brush to 100 points each.
02:21 I've set the intensity to 10%, the complexity is set to two, and that's
02:25 about it. All right, now I'll go ahead and click OK,
02:28 and I'll brush quickly along the text like, so to create some broadly separated
02:32 grass, and then I'll brush back the other direction to add some additional grass
02:36 blades in between, and if you want to go ahead and brush some more by all means,
02:40 you're welcome. Now notice, because I went ahead and
02:46 brushed in some crystallization over here, in the upper right and the upper
02:50 left-hand corners I've managed to squish the actual effect on screen inward.
02:56 And obviously I don't want that to happen.
02:58 So I'll go ahead and grab my scale tool, and I'll Alt + Click or Opt + Click down
03:01 here at the bottom about at the center of the shape.
03:06 And now we'll bring out the scale dialog box, and these are the values
03:08 that came up with. Non uniform, a horizontal value of 100%,
03:12 and a vertical value of 120%. But even though that's what I came up
03:17 with before, apparently that's not what's going to work this time around.
03:21 And so, depending on the shape of your envelope, things are going to be
03:24 different for you. So you're just going to have to come up
03:26 with values that work. I'll go ahead and try horizontal value of
03:29 120% and that has not done enough, either.
03:32 I'll try 140% instead, and it looks to me like I'm not getting anywhere, because
03:37 I'm trapped inside of my envelope. All I'm doing Is reducing the size of the text.
03:45 All right, so I'll cancel out. If changing the size of the rectangle
03:48 doesn't do the trick, as it's not in my case, why then let's change the size of
03:52 the envelope instead. So I'll go back and switch to edit
03:56 envelope, like so. And notice that It's kind of shifted
04:00 around on screen. That's fine.
04:01 I'll go ahead and Alt + Click or Opt + Click around the bottom of the envelope
04:05 this time around in order to bring up the scale dialog bog.
04:10 There was a little bit of a lag there, and this time my value seemed to have worked.
04:14 So I've got a horizontal value of 110% a vertical value of 120% I'm not sure if I
04:18 want that vertical value, let's try taking it out, because I'm not sure
04:21 that's something that I need. Actually, that looks pretty darn good to
04:27 me, we're only going to know if we go for it so, horizontal 110%, vertical just
04:33 100%, click OK. And now, let's try editing the text and
04:38 see what we come up with. I'll switch over to edit contents up here
04:42 in the Control panel, and by the way I know a lot of you don't like the keyboard
04:45 shortcuts, but a lot of you do and I just want you to know there's a shortcut for
04:48 switching back and fourth, and you can find it in the Object menu.
04:53 If you go down to envelope distort, you'll see edit content its Ctrl + Shift
04:56 + P, which is the last consonant in envelope or Cmd + Shift + P on the mac,
04:59 so its there if you want it anyway. Those icons are pretty handy, so I'm not
05:05 sure that ones worth remembering. Anyway, now I can gain access to the
05:08 text, which is what I'm looking for. And I'm going to try scaling the text
05:12 dynamically, by going up to the effect menu.
05:15 Choosing distort and transform, and choosing the transform command or if you
05:19 loaded the keys this is a great shortcut, Ctrl + E or Cmd + E on the Mac.
05:23 And now I'm just going to dial in some settings I wrote down for all the good
05:26 they're going to do me, probably. I'll go ahead and turn on the preview
05:29 check box after changing the vertical value to 133%, and I don't know, that's
05:33 not bad. Let's see if I can take it up without
05:36 completely ruining everything. I'll take it up to 140%, gosh, you know what?
05:41 I'm feeling bold, I'll take it to 150% and see what I come up with.
05:44 That looks pretty good to me. And now I'm going to change the vertical
05:47 move value to negative fifteen points. And I'm just looking to keep things
05:52 pretty evenly spaced, so we have roughly the same amount of space on the right
05:55 hand side, and on the left hand side of the text as well as down here at the bottom.
06:00 It looks like I'm a little tighter on the left than I am on the right so let's try
06:04 a horizontal move value of negative 5 and see what happens when we do this.
06:09 That's over compensating, so let's try negative 2.
06:12 I'm just winging it here, obviously, folks.
06:14 Usually, I have settings written down, but they're not working.
06:17 And they won't work for you either, so I might as well encourage you to play
06:19 around here. Anyway, for me these values look great.
06:24 Now, I'm going to go ahead and click OK in order to apply those changes.
06:27 And then, you know what? I think that gradient on the background
06:30 there, on the rectangle, could use some darkening up.
06:34 So I'll go ahead and select that rectangle.
06:36 Now, we have to be careful because notice that it's up now above the background
06:41 rectangle, they both employ the same gradient.
06:45 They both start at the same point, and they don't start transitioning til pretty
06:48 high up. So everything should be okay, but you
06:51 want to avoid adding a seem at this location.
06:54 In any event press the G key to switch to the gradient tool, and you'll see that
06:57 gradient annotator there. Notice, that even though the gradient
07:01 begins all the way at the bottom, that's where the first color stop appears.
07:05 So we've got a good margin of error. What we want to do is take this top
07:08 downward and I'm going to do so while pressing the shift key so I can strain
07:11 the angle of that gradient to exactly vertical.
07:15 And I think that looks pretty good, that looks a little different than my final
07:18 effect so I might take it up a little bit.
07:20 Yeah, that looks great. All right now I'll press the V key to
07:23 switch back to the black arrow tool, and also switch back to edit envelope and
07:27 I'll click off of my shape in order to deselect it.
07:32 And that friends is how you edit the contents of an envelope distortion,
07:36 however precarious it may be, here inside Illustrator.
07:40
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Masking the contents of an entire layer
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to mask the contents of an entire layer, which a
00:03 lot of folks don't know you can do and it's really actually very easy to pull off.
00:08 And then we'll repurpose that mask to create an opacity mask for the horse.
00:13 So, first thing I want you to do is go ahead and zoom out, a couple of clicks here.
00:18 And grab the Rectangle tool. And the idea is that even though I got a
00:21 bleed, and I've got stuff extending out into the bleed, I want to get a sense of
00:24 what my artwork looks like when it prints.
00:28 And this is just a temporary thing, so I can see what's going on.
00:30 So, in other words, I want to mask away the bleed and all the extra starburst,
00:33 and stuff like that. And so I'm going to create a rectangle
00:36 that's exactly the size of the art board. So if I press Shift+O in order to switch
00:40 to the Art Board tool, I can see that both the width and the height of this art
00:44 board are 720 points. So I'll just go ahead and press the Esc
00:49 key to escape out, and I'll click any old place inside the document window, and
00:52 notice that I already have a rectangle set up to 720 points wide.
00:57 Ans 720 points tall. So I'll go ahead and click OK in order to
01:00 create that square and then I'll click on the align icon up here in the control
01:04 panel and change it to align to art board if isn't already set that way and then go
01:08 ahead and click on horizontal align center in order to center the square in
01:11 the art board and click on vertical align center as well.
01:18 Now we've got the thing exactly where we want it.
01:20 Now, because we're going to re-purpose this rectangle, go up to the Edit menu
01:23 and choose the Copy command in order to create a copy of it.
01:27 Or, of course, you can just press Ctrl C or Cmd+C on a Mac.
01:31 Now, notice that my squares come in at the top of the evening layer.
01:34 That's exactly what I want, because that's where all the stuff extending out
01:37 of the layer is located. So with that path at the top of the stack
01:41 doesn't matter what color is assigned to it, it looks to me (LAUGH) like I got
01:44 some sort of very light grey. Interesting, I don't know where that's
01:48 coming from. But anyway, that doesn't matter.
01:50 Just go ahead and make sure it's selected.
01:51 And drop down to the bottom of the Layers panel and click on this icon right there,
01:55 Make Release Clipping Mask. And that'll go ahead and clip everything
02:00 that's outside of that layer, just like so.
02:03 Oh, and as an aside, notice next door to the clipping icon is a little search
02:07 icon, and what that allows you to do, I'll go ahead and unlock for example the
02:10 horse layer, and I'll press the V key to switch to my black arrow tool, and I'll
02:13 click on the horse to select it. If you then click on that little
02:19 magnifying glass, Illustrator will automatically find that selected object
02:23 inside the Layers panel. Which can be extremely handy indeed.
02:29 So I just want to make sure that you know about that one.
02:32 Anyway, I'm going to twirl close the evening layer.
02:34 And I want to modify this guy a little bit.
02:37 This liquified horse. So the first thing I'm going to do.
02:40 because I just want to create some interaction between him and the background.
02:43 I'm going to set him back to a weak black.
02:45 By Shift+clicking on this first swatch up here in the control panel.
02:48 And I'll just dial back the c, m, and y values to zero apiece.
02:53 In order to get this very dark shade of grey.
02:55 And then, I'll go to my transparency panel.
02:58 And I'll go ahead and expand it so that I can see the Opacity Mask options.
03:02 And I'll also change the Blend mode from normal to multiply so we'll end up with
03:06 this effect here. All right, now click on Make Mask in
03:09 order to create an opacity mask as you can see here.
03:13 Clip should be turned off. And then you want to click on the second
03:17 thumbnail in order to activate the opacity mask and press Ctr+-F, or Cmd+F
03:21 on the Mac, in order to paste in that very light grey square.
03:27 Now make sure that your stroke is set to None, which it is in my case, and then
03:30 you want to tap the period key in order to switch the fill.
03:35 Which is active for me, it's very important that it is active by the way
03:38 for you as well. To switch the fill to a gradient, and by
03:42 default it should be white to black. And hopefully it is for you as well,
03:46 otherwise you'll have to modify your color stops.
03:49 Then go ahead and expand the Gradient panel like so, and I'm going to press the
03:52 G key to switch to my Gradient tool, and I'm going to drag from the T down here at
03:56 the bottom of the illustration. Up until I'm about even with the bottom
04:02 of that wing right there, and I'm pressing the Shift key as I drag, so I'm
04:05 constraining the angle of my gradient to exactly vertical.
04:09 That turns out to be exactly the opposite of what I want, so I'll go ahead and
04:12 click on the reverse gradient icon here inside the gradient panel, to produce
04:15 this effect here. Now that's too much frankly, I'm going to
04:20 go ahead and zoom in by the way, so I can better see what I'm doing.
04:24 But in other words I'm masking away too much of the feet.
04:27 So I'll switch over to the Transparency panel, and I'll change the Opacity value
04:31 to 50%, in order to reduce, not the opacity of the horse, but rather, the
04:35 density of the mask. And now click on the thumbnail of the
04:40 horse in the Transparency panel in order to switch back to my layered document.
04:44 And I'll press Ctrl+Shift+A, or Cmd+Shift+A on the Mac to deselect everything.
04:49 And that's how you mask the entire contents of a layer.
04:52 As well as repurpose that mask as a low density gradient opacity mask.
04:57 Here inside Illustrator.
04:59
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38. Pattern Brushes
Up to five tiles per pattern brush
00:00 Back in the advanced course, you may recall that we took a look at three
00:03 varieties of brushes. Calliographic, scatter, and my
00:07 favorite,the art brush. Which allows you to stretch a collection
00:11 of path outlines defined as a brush along another path.
00:15 In this chapter, we'll see a fourth variety of brush, known as the pattern
00:19 brush, which allows you to repeat a series of tile patterns along the length
00:23 of a path outline. And the great thing about pattern
00:28 brushes, is they give you a ton of control.
00:31 You can assign up to five different tiles to a single pattern brush.
00:36 Starting with the side tile, which determines the appearance of the brush
00:40 along segments, either straight or curved, as well as smooth points.
00:45 Then you can also assign up to two corner tiles that'll appear at corner points.
00:50 And you can assign a start and end tile that will appear at end points in an open path.
00:55 Which makes pattern brushes perfect for creating framing effects inside of Illustrator.
01:01 But you can also assign them the path outlines and letter forms, as I'll
01:04 demonstrate in the following movies.
01:07
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Creating a basic pattern brush
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create a basic pattern brush that
00:03 accomidates closed path outlines that include only smooth points.
00:08 So, no end points and no corner points. I'll go ahead and switch over to my
00:13 starter document here and I'll press shift pagedown in order to advance to the
00:16 second art board. And you can see we've got this curving
00:21 path outlined. We'll come back to it in just a moment.
00:23 First we need to make our pattern brush. So I'll go ahead and zoom in by pressing
00:27 Ctrl + Plus several times. And then I'll grab my line tool and I'll
00:31 click somewhere inside my Art Board to bring up the dialog box.
00:36 And I'll go ahead and enter these values here.
00:37 A link of 40 points and an angle of zero degrees that is horizontal.
00:42 And the reason I'm creating this line by the numbers, is that'll give me more
00:46 control as we get deeper into this project.
00:49 Now I'll go ahead and click OK to create that new line.
00:52 All right, I'll go ahead and move it more or less into the center of the screen
00:55 here, and then I'll change the line weight to 2 points, and I'll click on the
00:57 second swatch up here in the control panel, and change the stroke to this green.
01:03 Which is R32, G64 and B0. And incidentally, I am working inside of
01:09 an RBG document. All right, I'll go ahead and press the Esc
01:13 key in order to hide that panel. Now, let's turn this into a double loop
01:17 by assigning a couple of dynamic effects. First, I'll go up to the Effect menu,
01:22 choose Distort and Transform, and choose Zig Zag.
01:25 And I'll go ahead and turn on the preview checkbox, so we can see that we
01:27 get these spikes here. I don't want to gently curving effect, so
01:31 I'll go ahead and set the points to smooth.
01:34 And then I'll take the size value down to four, and I'll change the number of
01:38 ridges per segment to one, and that way the line will dip down and rise back up
01:41 to meet itself. Now I'll click OK, in order to accept
01:46 that effect. Now, we need to flip this line, as well
01:49 as create a copy of it, and that means going to the effect menu, choosing
01:53 Distort and transform, and choosing Transform.
01:56 Or if you load a D keys, you just press Ctrl + E, or Cmd + E on a Mac.
02:01 Turn on the reflect y check box, turn on the preview checkbox to watch things flip.
02:06 And then click inside the copy's value, and press the Up Arrow key to change the
02:09 value to one, and then click OK. All right,, now, to crit a pattern brush,
02:13 you first have to find a repeating tile pattern.
02:17 And to do that you go to the object menu choose pattern and choose make or again
02:21 if you loaded D keys you can press Ctrl + M or Cmd + M on the Mac.
02:25 If you get this alert message telling you that a pattern has been added to the
02:29 swatches menu which frankly couldn't be more obvious go ahead and click on the
02:32 don't show again check box and click OK. And I'll call this guy, first attempt,
02:38 because frankly I'm not sure if it's going to work out or not.
02:42 Pattern brushes can be pretty persnickety at times.
02:46 All right now, I'm pretty confident that I don't want these leaping lines packed
02:49 together like this, so I'll make sure the Size Tile to Art check box is turned off.
02:54 You also want to turn off the link, so that you're not maintaining any kind of proprtion.
02:59 And then, click inside the height value, and press Shift + Up Arrow to raise it to
03:02 20 points. We want the width to be 40 points,
03:05 because if you recall, that was the length of our original line.
03:10 All right, so that takes care of it. I'll go ahead and press the Esc key a
03:13 couple of times in order to exit the pattern editing mode.
03:17 And I've got a new pattern, right here in the Swatches panel.
03:20 To turn that pattern into a pattern brush, go up to the Window menu and
03:23 choose Brushes or press the F5 key, and that'll bring up the Brushes panel that
03:27 we first saw in chapter 27 of the advance course.
03:32 and next, you want to click on the little Page icon at the bottom of the Brushes panel.
03:37 And select pattern brush from the bottom of the list here inside the dialog box.
03:41 Then click okay, and that'll bring up this whopping big dialog box, with all
03:44 kinds of brush options, 90% of which, you can ignore.
03:48 We need to give our brush a name, so I'll call it for smooth pass only, let's say.
03:54 And then, notice these icons down here. They represent the various patterns that
03:59 you're going to string together. You need to at least define a side tile,
04:03 so make sure this first guy is selected here and then set it to First Attempt.
04:08 And now, you can click OK in order to create that brush.
04:13 All right now at this point, I'll go ahead and hide the brushes panel, so I have
04:15 some more room to work. And I'll press Ctrl + 0, or Cmd + 0 on a
04:18 Mac, and Zoom Out so I can see the big curving shape.
04:22 If I marquee it, you can see that it's actually a circle.
04:25 And if I switch over to the Appearance panel, it has Zig Zag assigned to it.
04:30 So I can achieve a similar effect to this final thing that I'm going for.
04:34 If I were to increase the density of the zigzag effect, and then, for example,
04:38 press control e, or command e on the Mac, to bring up the transform dialog box.
04:44 Assuming, of course that you loaded D keys.
04:46 And then you'll notice that we have 1, 2, 3 humps every 90 degrees, which means
04:51 they're 30 degrees apart. So, if I want to stagger them, I change
04:56 the angle device to 15 degrees, turn on the preview check box.
05:00 And then raise the copies value to one. So you know, you could get something
05:03 similar if you messed around with the effects enough.
05:06 However, you're going to have more control with a pattern brush.
05:10 So I'll go ahead and cancel out of here. And what I want to do, is switch back to
05:13 the Layers panel, and render this guy out as a real static path outline, with a
05:17 bunch of smooth points. So I'll press Ctrl + C or Cmd + C on the
05:22 Mac to copy this path outline, then I'll twirl open the big shapes layer, turn off
05:26 the original path, so it's protected. And Ctrl + F or Cmd + F on a Mac in order
05:32 to paste a copy. Then I'll go up to the object menu and
05:36 choose expand appearance, in order to render it out as a static path outline,
05:39 as you see on the screen. All right, now let's apply our new pattern
05:44 brush and you can do that from the Control panel by going up to this brush
05:47 definition option. Click on it, and then select for Smooth
05:51 Paths Only, and we end up getting this effect here, ha.
05:56 What in the world happened? Well, you can get a sense for what's gone
05:59 wrong by taking a look at this thumbnail. Notice, that for whatever reason, our
06:03 little wave pattern is getting repeated three times.
06:07 So, we have not only this inset effect, which is exactly what I'm looking for,
06:11 but then we also have this sort of stretched effect on the outside and this
06:15 weird sort of flowery effect on the inside, which may turn out to be exactly
06:19 what you want. But assuming that it's not I'll show you
06:25 how to solve this problem, so that we have just one set of loops in the very
06:28 next movie.
06:31
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Correcting and adjusting a pattern brush
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you not only how to correct this repeating pattern problem.
00:04 But also how to anticipate it, so that you never run into this problem in the future.
00:10 So the first thing I suggest you do, is go up to the Swatches panel and make a
00:13 copy of your original pattern, by dragging it and dropping it onto the
00:17 little page icon. And then, double-click on this new guy,
00:22 and let's call it second attempt, this time around, because after all, that's
00:26 what it is. And I'm going to zoom in on my
00:31 illustration here. Notice here inside this little thumbnail,
00:35 that we're seeing the pattern repeat a total of three times.
00:40 So there at the top and down here at the bottom.
00:42 Now it's also showing it get cut off, but that doesn't end up applying to the
00:46 Pattern Brush. What you want to do is make sure the link
00:49 is turned off. Make sure sized tile to art is turned
00:52 off, as well. Click inside the Height value and just
00:55 press the Up Arrow key until the repetition goes away.
00:59 Which happens at 22 points. And as soon as you no longer see that
01:03 repetition, then everything is fine. Now if you want to go with a larger
01:07 height value than that you can, but 22 points is going to do the trick.
01:11 Then press the Escape key a couple of times, in order to update that pattern.
01:15 And you can see that the little swatch preview updates as well.
01:19 And it shows no repetition either. All right.
01:22 Now what you want to do is being back up the Brushes panel, which you can also get
01:25 by clicking on this little icon in the panel column.
01:28 And then you want to double-click on For Smooth Paths Only.
01:32 In order to bring up its options, make sure that the side tile is selected, and
01:35 this time we're going to load Second Attempt in order to switch it out.
01:40 So, First Attempt was wrong, you can see the repetition.
01:43 Second Attempt, no repetition, everything's going to go great.
01:46 Go ahead and click OK. At which point Illustrator will ask you
01:49 if you want to leave the existing strokes alone.
01:52 Or if you want to apply your modifications to the existing strokes.
01:55 You want to apply your modification. So go ahead and click on Apply to Strokes.
01:59 And then press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on a Mac, in order to zoom out and take in the much
02:04 improved effect. Notice however that the loops land on
02:09 each one of these kinds of points in this smooth star.
02:13 In different locations. Let's say you want to fix that, well it's
02:16 kind of a trial and error thing, by the way, but what you do is you select the
02:19 path outline and then you change the line weight.
02:23 So I might take it up to two points for example, at which point things are
02:27 starting to get a little wonky. Not only have I not solved my problem But
02:31 the effect is starting to fall apart a little bit.
02:35 And so then you just have to dial in decimal values, because pressing the Down
02:38 Arrow key takes you all the way down to one point.
02:42 Unfortunately, we don't have more control than that.
02:44 So you just have to kind of experiment. Enter 1.4 points for example, see if
02:48 that's what you want, it's not quite, and so forth.
02:52 I'll save you a little bit of pain, however, by telling you that I came up
02:55 with one and a quarter point. At which point you get this effect right here.
02:59 So everything seems to work out exactly the way it should.
03:04 Now let's say you want to increase the thickness of the lines in general.
03:07 In that event, as opposed to increasing line weight value here, the better thing
03:10 to do is to redefine the pattern. So, I'll go ahead and click off my path
03:15 outline to deselect it. And then I'll go up to the Swatches panel
03:18 and double-click on second attempt, in order to revisit my pattern here.
03:23 And I'm going to select my path outlines just by clicking on them like so.
03:27 And you can see that Illustrator has expanded the lines automatically, so it's
03:30 no longer a dynamic effect. Then go up to the Line Weight value and
03:35 change it to, say, four points. And that's it.
03:39 Then press the Escape key, in order to update that pattern.
03:42 An you can see, then it's updated here inside the swatches panel, even though,
03:45 it's a very tiny thumbnail. Thing is, if I press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on a
03:50 Mac, that has no immediate effect on the pattern brush.
03:55 And that's because the Pattern brush, for some reason, does not remember the title
03:58 pattern attached to it. So you have to bring back the brushes panel.
04:02 Double-click on For Smooth Paths Only. And notice that, as opposed to the side
04:07 tile being associated with second attempt.
04:10 It's associated with this thing called original, which varies from one brush to another.
04:15 It just happens to be the original definition.
04:18 Which is stored along with the pattern brush.
04:20 So there's no live link. What you've gotta do is reselect second
04:23 attempt and click OK, and then click Apply To Strokes, and you'll see that
04:26 pattern brush update in the background. And the final thing I'm going to do is
04:31 twirl open big shapes again, and turn on that original path, the dynamic version,
04:36 because I like the effect. And that's how you go about not only
04:41 correcting for a repeating pattern inside of a pattern brush, but recognizing the
04:46 repeating pattern inside of your tile pattern thumbnails, here inside Illustrator.
04:53
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Designing a matching corner tile
00:00 All right, now that we've created our first pattern brush we need to come up with
00:04 something that's going to work not just for path outlines that contain smooth
00:07 points but also for open paths like this one right here that contain corners.
00:13 And if I were to switch to my document of progress and assign the brush that we've
00:17 created so far by selecting the path outline and then going up to the brush
00:20 definition pop up menu. And selecting for smooth paths only.
00:26 You can see that the brush just drops out in the corners, and it doesn't look good
00:29 at the end points at all. Now I can go ahead and throw in a corner
00:33 definition using the tile pattern that we have so far, by clicking off the path
00:37 outline to deselect it, and then I'll bring up my Brushes panel, double-click
00:41 on for smooth paths only and select this guy right here, the next icon over which
00:45 says, Outer Quartile. Which is what we're looking for.
00:52 These are all outer corners as opposed to the inner corners.
00:54 And then I'll select Second Attempt, which is working so good for the side
00:58 tiles, and then I'll click OK. And then I'll click Apply to Strokes, and
01:03 you can see that we're not getting the effect we want at all.
01:07 So we need to design a custom Corner tile, and I'm going to show you how to do
01:11 that in this movie. So I'll press Shift + PageDown, to
01:15 advance to the next art board, and then I'll go ahead and zoom in here on what we
01:19 have so far. And I'll grab it, and create a copy of it
01:24 by Shift + Alt + Dragging it downward like so.
01:28 That would be a Shift + Opt + Drag on the Mac.
01:30 And now I'm going to expand the effect by going up to Object menu, and choosing
01:34 expand appearance That way we have two independent standing path outlines.
01:39 Now what I'm looking for, I"m going to switch back to that document that shows
01:42 what the paner brush needs to looks like. And I'll go ahead and zoom in on the
01:47 upper left corner, because that's what we're going to use as a model.
01:51 So imagine here, you can even see it happening.
01:54 Imagine that this is the size of the side tile.
01:59 That's all there is to it. Just this little area right here.
02:01 So it almost looks like an eye without an iris in it.
02:05 And then this thing right here that I'll just go ahead and marquis, that's the
02:09 corner that we need to design. So let's get to it.
02:13 I just wanted you to have a sense of where we're going.
02:16 First thing I need to do after zooming in some more of course, is give myself some
02:20 anchor points right at these intersection locations.
02:24 And you do that by going up to the Object menu > Choosing Path, and Choosing Add
02:27 Anchor Points. Or if you loaded D keys, Ctrl + Shift +
02:31 Alt + A, or Cmd + Shift + Opt + A on the Mac, A for add, of course.
02:36 Very useful shortcut, I find, for what it's worth.
02:39 All right now, go ahead and get your Wide Arrow tool, and go ahead and Marquee
02:42 these two endpoints over here on the right hand side, and press the Backspace
02:45 key, or the Delete key on the Mac, in order to get rid of them.
02:50 Then marquee these two guys over here on the left-hand side, and press Ctrl + X,
02:54 or Cmd + X on the Mac, in order to cut them to the clipboard.
02:59 And now, let's just go ahead and join these 2 paths together here by pressing
03:02 control + j, or command + j on a Mac. All right, now press Ctrl + F, or Cmd + F
03:07 on a Mac, in order to paste back in the 2 segments that we cut just a moment ago.
03:13 And now we're going to rotate them downward, by grabbing the rotate tool
03:16 which you can get by pressing the R key. And you want to Alt + Click or Opt +
03:20 Click right about here in order to bring up the rotate dialog box.
03:24 And we're looking for an angle value of negative 90 degrees.
03:27 I've got the preview checkbox turned on so I can see the rotation in progress.
03:31 And then you want to click on the copy button, in order to create a copy of
03:34 those paths. Now switch back to the White Arrow tool,
03:38 and go ahead and drag this guy up until it snaps into alignment right there,
03:42 because I want it very precisely position, these two sets of segments with
03:45 respect to each other. Now press Ctrl + K or Cmd + K on the Mac
03:51 and make sure your keyboard increment is set to one point.
03:55 Go ahead and click OK. And then press the Left Arrow key twice
03:58 in a row followed by the Down Arrow key twice in a row, like so.
04:03 All right, now let's go ahead and Alt + Mark key or Opt + Mark key these two
04:07 segments in order to select them. And then go ahead and Alt+Drag or
04:12 Option+Drag them. In order to create a copy of the two and
04:15 double-click on the rotate tool in order to bring up the rotate dialog box, and
04:19 change the angle value to negative 45 degrees, in order to create this effect
04:23 here, and then click OK. And now press the V key the get your
04:29 black arrow tool, and click off the shapes to deselect them.
04:32 Grab this guy right here, he should be on top.
04:35 I guess it's this one that's on top. That's fine, because we're dragging from
04:37 and end point. And drag it down until it snaps into
04:40 alignment like so. And then go ahead, and get this guy,
04:43 select him and drag him by his endpoint, until he snaps into alignment, and you
04:47 know you have a snap when you see the white arrowhead.
04:52 All right, now I want you to marquee these 2 segments here, and press control
04:55 shift left bracket, or command shift left bracket.
04:59 In order to send them to the back of the stack, that's very important.
05:03 All right, now press the A key in order to switch to the wide arrow tool.
05:06 And what we want to do is fuse these guys together, and make this guy go in the
05:09 right direction. So, we have an absolutely horizontal
05:13 Control Handle coming out of this segment, but this guy is going up at an
05:17 angle here. We need it to settle down.
05:20 And we're going to be able to do that like so.
05:22 Go ahead and marquee these two end points.
05:25 They're coincident, right on top of each other.
05:27 And then, you want to press the keyboard shortcut, Ctrl + Shift + Alt + J, or Cmd
05:31 + Shift + Opt + J on a Mac. There is no command for this feature, so
05:36 you have to press mash your fist J. And that'll bring up the join dialog box.
05:41 We want to switch to a smooth point so we have a smooth transition here.
05:45 And whichever anchor point is on top, wins the battle.
05:50 By which I mean, as soon as I click OK, this control handle is going to go down,
05:53 because this anchor point with the horizontal control handle was on top.
05:58 And that's the same thing that's going on here, so go ahead and mark these two
06:02 endpoints press Ctrl + Shift + Alt + J or Cmd + Shift + Opt + K on the mac to bring
06:05 up the join dialog box set it to smooth click OK.
06:10 And now those segments are nice and even as well alright now I want to add a
06:13 couple of loops one that goes ahead and connects these two segments and another
06:16 one that connects these segments here. So we need to know the distance between
06:22 these segments. An you can figure that out, probably the
06:25 easiest way to work, is to go ahead an get your rectangle tool, an then go up to
06:29 the View menu, an turn on smart guides. Or you can press Ctrl + U, Cmd + U on a Mac.
06:35 An make sure that you're in alignment with this anchor point, an then drag up
06:38 to this one. And you'll see the width and height
06:41 values right there in that heads up display.
06:43 So we know that the distance is ten points in both directions.
06:48 All right, now I'll go ahead and press the Backspace key to get rid of that thing.
06:51 We need to create an arc that measures ten points using the arc tool.
06:55 So go ahead and grab the arc tool then click somewhere inside the document.
06:59 Set both of these values to 10 points, otherwise you don't really know what to
07:03 do with the slope or this anchor point thing right here.
07:08 And actually what you want to do is select this guy, it turns out.
07:11 But you wouldn't know. Who would know that?
07:13 I'll go ahead and click OK in order to create the arc at the right angle like so.
07:18 But if you don't get it at the right angle, if you're working through a
07:20 project like this, then you would just rotate it some multiple of 90 degrees.
07:24 All right, I'm going to go ahead and switch to my wide area tool once again.
07:29 Drag this guy down until he snaps into alignment, so the bottom endpoint.
07:32 Marquee these two coincident endpoints, press Control Shift Alt J or Command
07:36 Shift Option J on a Mac. Because that way we can set this to a
07:39 smooth point, which is what we want, click OK.
07:42 And then, do the same, for these anchor points, go ahead and marquee them.
07:46 Press control shift alt J, command shift option J on a mac.
07:49 Switch to the smooth point and click OK. All right, now let's join together
07:53 everything we have so far, by, pressing the V key to switch to the black arrow tool.
07:57 Then partially marquee these 3 path outlines to select them all.
08:01 And press Ctrl + J or Cmd + J on a Mac. In or to fuse them into a single path
08:06 outline like so. All right, so all that's left is the
08:11 trickiest part of the operation, which is to assign a loop at an angle right here.
08:16 And I'll show you how that works, in the very next movie.
08:20
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Adding an angled loop to a corner design
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to precisely create this outer loop that
00:04 will make up the final element of our corner tile design.
00:08 I'm going to switch over to the document in progress and I'll grab my White Arrow tool.
00:12 And I'll marquee this end point right there in order to select it.
00:16 And then I'll press the Up Arrow key in order to move it up a point.
00:20 And then I'll marquee this one, and press the Left Arrow key to move it left one point.
00:24 The idea being that I want to separate these two anchor points from each other
00:28 just a little bit. Now we need to figure out exactly how far
00:32 these points are from each other. And again, you could draw a rectangle,
00:36 but that's not going to give us the information we're looking for.
00:40 They'll tell us the width and height of the rectangular area between those two
00:43 points, but I want to know the length of the direct distance.
00:47 And unless you want to have to perform Pythagorean's Theorem on this thing, then
00:50 there's a better way to work. I'll just go ahead and press the
00:53 Backspace key, or the Delete key on a Mac, in order to get rid of that rectangle.
00:57 And I'll press the A key to get my White Arrow tool.
01:00 And what you want to do is grab this endpoint and drag it until it snaps into
01:04 alignment with the other one. And even though that seems like it's
01:08 messing everything up, this will give us exactly the information we need.
01:12 Then you want to double-click in the White Arrow tool icon in the toolbox in
01:15 order to bring up the Move Dialog box, and here's the value we're looking for.
01:20 6.5863, you want to write that value down, because it has a habit of changing
01:25 every single time I perform these steps. 6.5863 alright, fair enough.
01:32 And now I'll go ahead and click the Cancel button.
01:35 Because that's all the information I need, just the linear distance.
01:38 And now I'll press Control Z, or Command Z on the Mac, in order to undo that movement.
01:43 All right, now you want to switch over from the Rectangle tool to the Ellipse tool,
01:46 here inside the Shape tool fly-out menu, and then click somewhere inside the
01:50 document, and go ahead and enter that value we just measured, which is 6.5863 points.
01:56 How in the world would you remember that if you didn't write it down?
02:02 And then we want to come up with height value.
02:04 Now the height value can really be anything you want, and this is something
02:07 you would just discover through trial and error.
02:10 I came up with 10 points. And then go ahead and click OK in order
02:14 to create that ellipse. All right now what we want to do is get rid
02:17 of the bottom part of the ellipse, by pressing the A key to get the White Arrow tool.
02:21 I'll go ahead and marquee this bottom point, and I'll press the Backspace key,
02:24 or the Delete key on a Mac to get rid of it.
02:26 Then double-click on the Rotate tool, in order to bring up the Rotate Dialog box
02:30 and change the angle from negative 45 to positive 45 degrees like so, and click OK.
02:37 Now press the A key to switch back to the White Arrow tool.
02:40 This is old school path building at work here.
02:43 And then go ahead and drag this anchor point until it snaps into alignment with
02:46 this guy right there. So you want to make sure everybody is as
02:49 precisely aligned as possible. And then you want to marquee these two
02:53 coincident endpoints, and you want to press mash-your-fist J,
02:56 Control-Shift-Alt-J on a PC, Command-Shift-Option-J on a Mac, to bring
02:59 up the old Join Dialog box and then set this point to Smooth.
03:05 because otherwise it's going to be a corner point, and if you make any future
03:07 modifications to it, you're going to regret that fact.
03:11 So now go ahead and click OK. And now is the trickiest part.
03:14 Go ahead and marquee these two anchor points, and press that same keyboard
03:18 shortcut, Control-Shift-Alt-J or Command-Shift-Option-J on a Mac.
03:22 And if you did everything right, you'll bring up the Join Dialog box.
03:25 If the Join Dialog box does not appear, that means the two points are not quite coincident.
03:30 And you'll need to drag them around or, here I'll show you what to do if things
03:34 go wrong here. I'll cancel out.
03:36 You'd press Control-Alt-J, or Command-Option-J on the Mac to bring up
03:40 the Average Dialog box, and you'd set it to Both, and then click OK.
03:46 And then, you would press Control-Shift-Alt-J, or
03:49 Command-Shift-Option-J in a Mac. And select Smooth, and click OK.
03:53 And I assure you, even though that's a lot of mushin' a bunch of modifier keys
03:57 along with J over and over again, that you're going to end up with a corner tile
04:00 that's going to work out beautifully, just like the one you see here.
04:06 And that, friends, is how you create a precisely looping corner tile design,
04:11 perfectly suited to a pattern brush, here inside Illustrator.
04:16
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Creating end tiles and tile perimeters
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to design an end tile, as well as a
00:03 beginning tile, both of which will appear at the end points.
00:07 And I'll also show you how to define the perimeter of the tile, which is
00:10 exceedingly important when creating pattern brushes.
00:15 So, I'm going to zoom out a click here. And I'm going to grab this path with the
00:18 Black Arrow tool, and I'm going to bring it to the front of the stack by pressing
00:21 Ctrl+Shift, Right bracket or Cmd+Shift, Right bracket on a Mac.
00:25 Then I'll press the A key to switch to the Wide Arrow tool, click off the path
00:29 to deselect it, and then click on this first anchor point right there to select it.
00:34 And press Ctrl+C and then press Ctrl+F, in order to paste and copy of that path
00:38 in front. And then go ahead and drag it over to
00:42 this location until it snaps into alignment like so, and release.
00:47 And now we need to create a half a circle with which to end the pattern brush.
00:51 And that's pretty easy to do, you just need to select the Ellipse tool, from the
00:54 Shape tool fly-out menu. And then, to find the distance between
00:58 these two points, you just drag from one to the other like so, just drag straight
01:02 down, and you can see that the height is eight points.
01:06 Then just go ahead and delete that flat circle there.
01:09 And click somewhere inside the document window, and change the height value to
01:12 exactly eight points is what we need. And then you can set the width value to
01:17 anything you want and, again, this is a matter of trial and error and I came up
01:21 with 14 points. Now click OK in order to create that
01:24 shape, and then press the A key to switch to the White Arrow tool.
01:28 Go ahead and click off the shape, and then click the left-hand anchor point to
01:31 select it and press the Backspace key or the Delete key on the Mac to get rid of it.
01:36 Drag this guy down until it snaps into alignment like so.
01:39 Marquee these two coincident end points, match your fish J to bring up the join
01:43 dialog box, select Smooth, click OK. Marquee these two coincident end points,
01:48 press Ctrl+Shift Alt J or Cmd+Shift Option J on a Mac, select Smooth and
01:52 click OK, and we're now done. Now then, we have to define how big these
01:58 tiles are going to be, starting with the corner tiles, because the corner tile
02:02 determines everything. However much room we devote to the corner
02:07 tile, which has to be square by the way, determines how big the side tile is and
02:11 the beginning and end tiles as well. So, what you want to do is press the M
02:17 key to switch to the Rectangle tool, and find that anchor point right there, and
02:20 go ahead and drag from it until you snap into alignment with this anchor point.
02:26 And notice that my Smart Guide are turned on, which is what you want.
02:30 So, that you can see the heads up display which is telling me that the width and
02:33 height of this rectangle are 16 points. Well, if you think about it, that's a
02:37 quarter of the area we need to occupy, because we're going from this seam right
02:42 there, halfway through the corner, to this vertical seam that's halfway through
02:46 the corner tile as well. So, now what you need to do is get rid of
02:52 that guy, click somewhere inside the illustration, and click after the width
02:56 value and enter asterisk two in order to multiply it times two.
03:01 It's fairly evident that it's 32 point, so I'll just go ahead and change the
03:04 height value to 32 as well and click OK. Now, this guy needs to be invisible, so
03:09 make sure the Fill is set to None, and then change the Stroke to None as well.
03:14 And now, press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac in order to switch to the Outline mode,
03:18 press the V key to get your Black Arrow tool, and you just want to go ahead and
03:21 drag the path so it snaps into alignment there.
03:26 Notice, it snapped right at this point, that's where we want it.
03:29 And drag it up so it snaps into alignment at the bottom as well.
03:34 And you may see an intersect line telling you that the center of the rectangle is
03:37 intersecting with the center of this shape, over here.
03:42 And if so, that's just fine, oh we need to watch for that purple little square
03:45 right there, do you see it? That indicates that I've accidentally
03:49 selected that big shape in the background, which is on the big shapes layer.
03:53 So, you might want to take a moment, while we're thinking of it, before we go
03:56 delete the shape, or create a copy of it, or wreak some other havoc, just go ahead
03:59 and lock down that layer like so. Anyway, you can see that we are totally
04:04 in alignment here. And we can best see it because we're
04:07 working inside the Outline mode. When you press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac
04:11 to switch back to the Preview mode, you can see that it kind of slices through,
04:15 midway through the stroke, and that's a little bit more difficult to see onscreen.
04:21 All right, now what you want to do is press the M key once again in order to switch
04:24 back to the Rectangle tool, and drag from this top right anchor point down into the
04:28 right until you snap into alignment with the height of the previous shape.
04:34 Which I'm not seeing right, there it is. And so you should see in the heads up
04:38 display, that the width is 20 points, which is the width of this guy.
04:43 And you might say well wait a sec, that first line we drew was 40 points.
04:46 While this is only half of that 40 point line so a width of 20 points is exactly
04:49 what you want. A height of 32 points as well, so that
04:52 you're matching to the previous rectangle.
04:55 I'm going to press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on the Mac so we can actually see these
04:58 rectangles line up to each other. And then just go ahead and get the Black
05:03 Arrow tool, and drag this most recent rectangle by its upper left anchor point,
05:06 until it snaps into alignment with the upper right anchor point.
05:11 And then press the Alt key or the Option key on the Mac in order to create a copy
05:14 like so. All right, now I'll zoom out just a little
05:17 bit more, we need to still create the beginning tile.
05:21 And you do that by marqueeing these two shapes right there.
05:24 Then go ahead and select the Reflect tool, and Alt click, I don't know,
05:28 anywhere really, somewhere around here, let's say.
05:32 Alt click, or on a Mac you Option click to bring up the Reflect dialog box.
05:36 And make sure the axis is set to vertical, that flings the guy way out there.
05:40 But at least it's not sitting on top of something else, and then click the Copy
05:44 button in order to create a copy. And that will be our beginning tile, and
05:48 now just go ahead and move it over until it aligns like so.
05:51 Now we actually want a little distance between these guys, it's just going to
05:55 work out better. So, assuming you keyboard increment is
05:58 one point, press the Left Arrow key four times in a row, one, two, three, four to
06:01 nudge that guy out there. And then marquee these two, one, two,
06:06 three, four again, and then marquee this guy, and press the Right Arrow key, one,
06:10 two, three, four times. Now you can press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a
06:14 Mac in order to switch back to the Preview mode.
06:17 And those believe it or not are all the design elements we need to create our
06:21 pattern brush. And I'll show you how to assemble that
06:24 pattern brush in the next movie.
06:27
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Cropping your designs inside your tiles
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to crop each one of your design elements inside
00:03 of its rectangular tile. And I'll start by showing you why this is
00:07 so very important. Just so we can see all the rectangles here.
00:11 Go ahead and press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac to switch to the outline mode.
00:16 And go ahead and marquee all these guys here.
00:18 And press Shift+Down Arrow in order to nudge them down.
00:20 Just so we're getting away from that line above.
00:23 And then just partially marquee the rectangles only in order to select them.
00:29 And right click inside the document window, choose Arrange.
00:32 And choose Send to Back or press the keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+Shift+Left
00:35 Bracket, or Cmd+Shift+Left Bracket on the Mac.
00:39 And the reason we're doing that is because patterns actually require that.
00:43 If you're going to define a perimeter as we have in this case, then Illustrator
00:46 expects the perimeter to be at the back of the stack.
00:49 Now press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on the Mac, to switch back to the preview mode.
00:54 And marquee this guy like so. That is the corner element along with its
00:59 square tile. Now I want you to see how the miter join
01:02 extends outside the tile and that's going to present us with a problem.
01:06 When you go up to the Object menu, choose Pattern, and choose Make.
01:11 And then notice here we are inside of the pattern editor.
01:15 And everything's golden right? We've got a width of 32 points, a height
01:18 of 32 points. Size Tile to Art is turned off, which is
01:22 very important, and we have the tile positioned exactly where the selected
01:25 square was at the bottom of the stack. Here's the problem though: notice that
01:30 the miter is coming in again over here on the left-hand side, and that is going to
01:33 show up in our pattern brush. So it's going to actually eenter the
01:37 tile over at this location, and that's not going to make any sense whatsoever.
01:41 And you can see it happening here inside the thumbnail.
01:44 So apparently we have the bottom miter stabbing in at the top as well.
01:49 So in other words, I don't want to create this tile.
01:51 So I'm going to click the Cancel button. Don't press Escape because that doesn't cancel.
01:56 That goes ahead and saves your changes. Go ahead and click Cancel instead.
02:00 Now you might figure, well, gosh, let's just switch to a different join, like a
02:03 bevel join. So I'll select the corner element, click
02:07 on the word Stroke up here in the control panel, and change it to a bevel join like
02:10 so, and that goes ahead and clips away the mitres, but not far enough.
02:15 They're still extending outward. So what in the world do you do?
02:19 Well, I'll show you. First of all, you want to zoom out a
02:21 little bit so you can take in all of your rectangles.
02:24 The first thing we want to do because we're about to mess up our original
02:27 shapes here is press Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on a Mac to reinstate those miters.
02:32 Then marquee all of these objects to select them and let's make copies of them
02:36 by dragging them downward while pressing the Shift and Alt keys or the Shift and
02:40 Option keys on a Mac and then release and we have a series of duplicates.
02:46 Now, select all the rectangles, just the rectangles.
02:49 And copy them by pressing Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on a Mac, because we're about to mess
02:53 them up. And then click and shift-click on each
02:56 one of these guys to select them like so, and I'm going to press Ctrl+U, or Cmd+U
03:00 on a Mac, to turn off the smart guides, so they stop flashing onscreen.
03:05 And then I'll go up to the Object menu choose Path and choose Outline Stroke, or
03:09 if you loaded D keys, you can press Ctrl+Backslash or Cmd+Backslash on the Mac.
03:15 And you should end up with these effects here.
03:18 Now, let's go ahead and crop each one of them, by marqueeing the invisible
03:21 perimeter along with the object. And then you want to bring up the Path
03:24 Finder panel, which you can also get by choosing the Path Finder command from the
03:27 Window menu. And then click on this third item in,
03:31 Intersect, in order to clip that guy away.
03:34 And notice we lost the rectangle. So that's why we needed to create copies
03:37 of them. Now, you can marquis the next guy over
03:41 and either click on that icon again, or you can hide the pathfinder panel and
03:44 just press Ctrl+4, or Cmd+4 on a Mac, which is Adobe's keyboard shortcut for
03:48 repeating the last pathfinder operation. Now marquee these guys, Ctrl or Cmd+4,
03:56 and marquee these guys and press Ctrl or Cmd+4.
03:59 And then finally, select all of them like so, and press Ctrl+B, or Cmd+B on the
04:04 Mac, to paste those boundary rectangles, in back of the cropped objects.
04:10 All right. So that's how you crop away everything
04:12 that's outside the rectangular tile boundary.
04:15 In the next movie, I'll show you how to assemble these various objects to create
04:19 a seamless pattern brush.
04:21
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Assembling a seamless pattern brush
00:00 In this movie, we'll assemble all of our design elements into a seamless pattern brush.
00:05 The first step is to save each of the elements as an independent tile pattern.
00:09 And I'll start things off with this guy, the beginning tile.
00:12 So, go ahead and marquee both the rectangle and the design element.
00:17 And then, go up to the Object menu, choose Pattern, and then choose Make.
00:21 And if you loaded D keys, you've got a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+M or Cmd+M on
00:25 the Mac. And I'm going to be employing that
00:28 keyboard shortcut in the future. Then inside the Pattern Editor, you
00:32 should see that your width an height values are 20 and 32 respectively.
00:36 Then let's go ahead and name this guy Loops.
00:39 And I'll put Begin inside parenthesis, because this is the beginning tile.
00:43 And then, I'll press the Esc key a couple of times in order to save my changes.
00:48 Now, I'll Marque the end tile, and I'll press Ctrl+M, or Cmd+M on the Mac.
00:52 Bear in mind that only works if you loaded D keys.
00:56 And then, I'll change the name of this guy to Loops End like so, and then I'll
00:59 press the Esc key a couple of times in order to accept that change.
01:05 Now, I'll marquee the middle tile and press Ctrl+M or Cmd+M on a Mac, name this
01:09 guy Loops and Middle in parentheses. And then press Esc a couple of times.
01:16 So you just have to sort of repeat the process over and over again.
01:19 And then I'll select our final art, the corner tile, and I'll press Ctrl+M, Cmd+M
01:23 on the Mac. And I'll call this guy Loops, what a
01:27 surprise, Corner this time, in parentheses.
01:30 And then press the Esc key a couple of times in order to save out that tile.
01:35 All right, now we're ready to assemble them into a Pattern brush.
01:37 So, bring up the Brushes panel, and then click on the little page icon at the
01:41 bottom of the panel. Select Pattern brush from the bottom of
01:45 the list, click OK, and this time we'll call this guy looping lines pattern,
01:49 let's say. And by default, this first bucket side
01:53 tiles should be selected. Go ahead and set it to loops middle.
01:57 And then click on this next container, which is the outer corner tile, and set
02:00 it to corner. And you might as well set the inner
02:03 corner to loops corner as well. And then select this one, and notice if
02:06 you hover over it, it tells you this is the start tile.
02:09 So, set it to Loops Begin. And then, this final one is the end tile,
02:14 so set it to Loops End. And that's it, now click OK, and you have
02:18 created your Pattern brush. And it may look kind of weird, but it's
02:22 going to work out great. Now, go ahead and hide the Brushes panel
02:26 and press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on a Mac to zoom all the way out.
02:30 And if you locked that big shapes layer, go ahead and unlock it now.
02:34 And I'm going to twirl open this layer and turn off the rearmost of the two
02:37 paths, the one that features the dynamic effect.
02:40 And then, I'll go ahead and meatball this forward path to select it.
02:45 And let's go ahead and update it to the new Pattern brush by clicking on Brush
02:48 Definition up here in the Control panel. And selecting looping lines pattern from
02:52 the list. And we end up with this very polished
02:55 effect here. Now, we need a different line weight in
02:58 order to scoot things over a little bit. And for what it's worth, the path
03:02 outline, and I was telling you in some previous movies, that even a closed path
03:06 begins and ends at a specific point. And in the case of this path outline,
03:11 it's this rightmost anchor point here. And you can see that's where the pattern
03:16 begins emerging, and then it doesn't quite catch up with the next anchor point.
03:21 And it falls farther behind here and farther, and farther and farther behind
03:25 as we move along. And the problem is even more obvious if I
03:29 change the line weight back to one point, it's default setting.
03:32 So, you can see it's falling behind in there and even further behind in there
03:35 and so forth. So, I just played around with the stroke
03:38 value untill I came up with something that worked and that was 1.05 points.
03:42 And we end up achieving this effect here, with all the pieces of the pattern
03:47 properly aligned. But I didn't really the new Pattern brush
03:51 with this specific path in mind. Rather if I press Shift+Page Up in order
03:55 to move to the first art board, you can see it's this guy that I made the pattern for.
04:01 So, I'll go ahead and zoom in here. By entering a new zoom value, just so we
04:05 can see things big on screen. And then, I'll click on Brush Definition
04:09 once again, and I'll click on Looping Lines pattern to apply it, and everything
04:13 works out exactly the way it should. Press Ctrl+Shift+A or Cmd+Shidt+A on the
04:18 Mac, in order to deselect the object. And you can see that every corner aligns
04:22 properly and Illistrator automatically stretches the side tilrs to fit.
04:27 And that's the beginning and end tiles as well.
04:30 And you can even increase the line weight if you want, with a lot more flexibility.
04:34 Notice if I click on the path outline to select it once again, and I switch up the
04:37 line weight, to say two points. Everything aligns automatically exactly
04:42 the way it should. Now, you can see pretty clearly that this
04:45 Eye tile over on the right-hand side is much wider than these two side tiles over
04:49 here on the left-hand side. So, you probably don't want to go with
04:54 such a large value. But you could get away with something
04:57 like 1.5 points, perhaps. That looks awfully darn good.
05:01 Or you could even go with a reduced line weight, if you prefer.
05:05 Something along the lines of 0.5 points. But for my money, I think the effect look
05:10 best at one point, as in this case here. And that folks, is how you create a
05:16 seamless Pattern brush, complete with side, corner, start, and end tiles here
05:20 inside Illustrator.
05:23
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Adding a white buffer zone to a pattern brush
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create a variation on our Loops brush
00:03 that includes these white edges right there.
00:06 And that'll help distinguish the stroke from the fill in the case of, for
00:10 example, this big letter W. I'll go ahead and switch over to the
00:13 illustration in progress. And press Shift+Page Down in order to
00:16 skip ahead to the second artboard. And I'm going to grab these guys, right
00:20 here, all but this big shape, which I need to lock down.
00:24 So, I'll go ahead and twirl open the big shaped layer and I'll click in a lock
00:27 column in front of the top path, in order to protect it from harm.
00:32 And then, I'll go ahead and drag these guys upwards so I have a little more room
00:34 to work. And then, I'll marque this middle row here.
00:38 And I'll Alt-drag or Option-drag it down while pushing the Shift key as well.
00:43 So, I've got the Shift and all keys down here on the PC, the Shift and Option keys
00:46 on the Mac, and then I'll go ahead and make a copy of those path out lines.
00:51 Now, I'll zoom in here, and I want to be able to add a stroke to each of these
00:55 green path out lines. So, I'm going to partially Shift-marquee
00:59 those rectangles there to deselect them, and Shift-click on this one to deselect
01:02 it as well. And now notice that I'm seeing mixed
01:06 objects appear on the left side of the Control panel.
01:09 Which means if I switch to the Appearance panel, I can't do anything.
01:13 And the culprit is this guy right there. In my case anyway, he happens to be grouped.
01:17 So, what I need to do is go up to the Object menu and choose Ungroup, or press
01:21 Ctrl+Shift+G or Cmd+Shift+G on the Mac in order to ungroup those paths.
01:27 And for good measure, I'll just do it again since that doesn't seemed to have helped.
01:31 All right, good. Now, I can actually see my stroke and
01:34 this blank fill right here. What I want to do is add a fill, and I'm
01:37 going to do that by clicking on the Fill Swatch and changing it to white.
01:43 And we're not going to be seeing any differences here on screen.
01:45 So, you just have to have faith that things are working because we're set
01:48 against a white background. But what you could do actually is go up
01:51 to the View menu and choose Show Transparency Grid so we can tell the
01:54 white from the artboard. Then go ahead and click on the stroke
01:59 and click on the little page icon at the bottom of the panel to create another stroke.
02:03 Like on the original here, change it to white and then increase the line width to
02:07 four points. All right, now I'm going to press Ctrl+Y
02:11 or Cmd+Y on the Mac in order to switch to the Outline mode.
02:14 And I'm going to mark key all these guys and shift.
02:17 I'll drag them downward. That's the Shift+Option-drag on the Mac
02:20 to make another copy of them. Because what I want to do this time
02:23 around is convert these guys to outlines. So, I'll Shift-drag around the rectangles
02:27 to deselect them. Then I'll go up to the Object menu
02:31 choose Path and choose Outline Stroke. And that goes ahead and outlines the
02:35 white stroke, but it doesn't outline the green stroke.
02:39 So, what I need to do next is return to the Object menu, choose Path and choose
02:43 Outline Stroke once again. And this time, I've outlined everything.
02:47 Now, if you press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac, it's going to look totally wrong.
02:51 And that's because the green paths have gone to the back of the stack.
02:54 We also have some groups, by the way, that we have to reconcile, as indicated
02:57 by the word group up here in the Control panel.
03:00 So go up to the Object menu, choose Ungroup or press Ctrl+Shift+G once again,
03:04 Cmd+Shift+G on a Mac. And might as well choose that command at
03:08 least one more time. Actually, one more time did it.
03:11 You can see that I can't choose it a third time because it's now dim.
03:14 And that tells me that I don't have any groups anymore, which is a great thing.
03:17 I just hate that incessant grouping that Illustrator does.
03:21 Anyway, I'll go ahead and click off Opacity, select them, and then I'll click
03:24 on one of the white paths to select it. And then, what you want to do is go up to
03:28 the Control panel, far right side to select similar objects.
03:31 Make sure that it's select to all, and then click on the icon to select all the
03:34 paths that are filled with white. And then you want to press Ctrl+Alt+0 or
03:39 Cmd+Option+0 on the Mac to make sure that aren't any other white paths selected
03:42 inside the illustration. And there is one right here.
03:47 Notice this rectangle is white. So, go ahead and Shift-click on it, and I
03:50 missed it. So, I'm going to go ahead and zoom in
03:53 here, and then I'll Shift-click on this path to deselect it.
03:56 And now, let's go ahead and press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on the Mac.
04:00 Shift+Page Down to go to the proper page here, and I'll go ahead and zoom back in
04:04 once again. All right, with all these paths selected,
04:08 you want to bring up the Pathfinder panel, which you can get by choosing the
04:11 Pathfinder command from the Window menu. And then, click on Unite in order to fuse
04:15 them all together like so. Then that goes in and generates a group.
04:19 Once again, that's not what we want. What we want is a Compound Path.
04:22 So go up to the Objects menu, choose Compound Path and choose Make.
04:26 Now, we want to go ahead and find those rectangles, and you can probably get to
04:29 them just by marking like so with a Black Arrow tool.
04:33 There they are. And we're going to destroy them with this
04:36 next pathfinder operation. So go up to the Edit menu and choose the
04:39 Copy Command, or press Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on a Mac in order to create a copy so that
04:43 we're backing up the originals. And then return to the Object menu,
04:49 choose Compound Path, and once again choose Make.
04:53 And that way, we've got two compound paths in order to create the intersection here.
04:57 Shift-click on the white compound path to select it.
05:00 Bring back up the Pathfinder panel, and this time you want to click on Intersect
05:04 in order to create this effect here. That's going to give you another one of
05:08 Illustrator's notorious auto groups. So, go back to the Object menu and choose
05:12 the Ungroup command in order to break up the white shapes into independent path outlines.
05:18 Now, go ahead and grab each one of the green shapes by clicking on one, and
05:21 Shift-clicking on the others like so. Press Ctrl+Shift+Right bracket, or
05:26 Cmd+Shift+Right bracket on a Mac to bring them to front.
05:29 And then, you want to go back to the Object menu.
05:32 Choose Compound Path and choose Make in order to convert these guys to a single
05:35 compound path. Press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on a Mac to bring
05:39 back the rectangles. These are all independent path outlines
05:42 at this point. So, go up to the Object menu, choose
05:45 Compound Path, and choose Make. And then, go ahead and Shift-click on any
05:48 one of the green paths to select all of them, and click on the Intersect icon
05:51 once again. Now what that does is it gets rid of the
05:55 fills because I went ahead and put the rectangles in front, that was silly.
05:59 But anyway, it's an easy problem to solve.
06:01 First, go up to the Object menu, choose the Ungroup command.
06:05 And then go up to the first color swatch up here in the Control panel and change
06:09 it to the shade of green right here. The swatch have created an advance finally.
06:15 Press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on the Mac in order to pace back in our rectangles.
06:20 All right, now we're ready to generate the patterns.
06:22 So, go and select this first guy here like so, marking around all these paths.
06:27 And then go to the Object menu, choose Pattern, and choose Make.
06:31 Then let's go ahead and name this guy Fill Loops, which I'm going to copy
06:34 because all these guys are going to be called Fill Loops.
06:38 And then parenthesis begin, and then press the Escape key a couple of times in
06:41 order to generate that pattern right there, as you can see.
06:46 And then, I'll select the last one and I'll return to the Object menu, choose
06:49 Pattern, and choose Make. Or if you loaded D keys, you can press
06:53 Ctrl+M, Cmd+M on the Mac. And that's what I'm going to be doing in
06:56 the future. And then, let's go ahead and select that
06:59 name, press Control+V or Cmd+V on Mac in order paste and fill loops.
07:03 Call it end this time, escape out in order to generate the tile pattern.
07:08 Then go ahead and select this middle bunch right there.
07:10 Press Ctrl+M or Cmd+M if you load a D key, let's go ahead and select a name and
07:14 change it to Fill Loops Middle this time. Double Escape.
07:19 And then finally, we'll select this guy, the corner.
07:21 Press Ctrl+M, Cmd+M on a Mac. Go ahead and call this Final One Fill
07:25 Loops Corner, of course. And then press the Escape key a couple of
07:29 times in order to finish those patterns. Now, we have to generate the Pattern brush.
07:34 So, bringing up the Brushes panel, and then click on the little page icon at the
07:38 bottom of the panel. Select Pattern brush from the list here,
07:42 click OK, and let's go ahead and just call this guy Fill Loops, which I am just
07:45 pasting in. And then, I've got the side tiles
07:49 selected as you can see here, so I'll go ahead and select Fill Loops Middle.
07:54 And then select the first corner, the outer corner, change it to Fill Loops Corner.
07:58 The inner corner, change it to Fill Loops Corner.
08:01 The start tile, right there, change that to Fill Loops Begin.
08:05 And the end tile, change that to Fill Loops End.
08:08 That's all you have to do, then you click OK.
08:10 And you've now successfully created your Pattern brush that includes these white
08:14 edges that will help to distinguish the stroke from the fill.
08:19 In the next movie, I'll show you how to create this old style country western W.
08:24
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Reconciling very acute corners in a path
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to create the effect you see on screen.
00:03 Sort of an old style, classic, cowboy, country western I don't really know.
00:09 But the idea here, is, that I want to show you what to do when your pattern
00:12 brush traces an extremely acute corner as happens down here, these 2 elbows in the
00:17 W and up here at the top, too. Because that's when pattern brushes start
00:23 falling apart. So I'm going to switch to my document in
00:26 progress, and press Shift+Page Down to advance to the final art board here.
00:29 And then I'll go ahead and select this big letter w.
00:33 Which is set in Myriad Pro. And I'll press Ctrl C or Cmd C on a Mac
00:36 in order to copy it. Go ahead and twirl open the big shapes
00:40 folder here. And turn off that w to protect it, just
00:42 in case we have to come back to it later. And then I'll press Ctrl B, or Cmd B on a Mac.
00:48 In order to paste the new W to the back of the stack, and I'll go up to the Type
00:51 menu, and choose create outlines, we can press Ctrl+Shift+O, or Cmd+Shift+O on a Mac.
00:57 All right, now let's go ahead and add our new pattern brush by clicking on this
01:01 basic item up here in the control panel, and selecting the new brush which is
01:04 called fill loops, in order to apply it. And you'll see That things have gone
01:10 terribly wrong, particularly in those acute corners that I was telling you about.
01:16 But before we address that, I'm just going to make a couple of minor
01:18 modifications here. I'm going to take this stroke and I'm
01:21 going to raise it to 1.4 points just because I found that to be aesthetically pleasing.
01:27 And then I wanted to give my brush a little bit more room up here at the top
01:29 of the W. So, I'll press the A key to switch to the
01:32 white arrow tool. And I'll marquee this anchor point right
01:36 there, and press shift left arrow, in order to nudge it 10 points to the left.
01:40 And then I'll grab this one, and nudge it 20 pixels to the right by pressing shift
01:45 right arrow twice. And I'll get this guy, basically I'm
01:48 going to do the same thing. I'll press Shift+Right Arrow in order to
01:51 move it 10 points to the right, and then I'll grab this one here, and I'll press
01:54 Shift+Left Arrow to move it 20 points to the left.
01:59 All right, now what you want to do is press the V key to switch to your black arrow tool.
02:02 Click on the W, and go ahead and copy it, by choosing the Copy command from the
02:06 Edit menu, or pressing Ctrl+C, or Cmd+C on the Mac.
02:10 And the reason we're doing this is that we're now going to have to kind of
02:12 destroy the path. That is, we are going to modify the path
02:16 in a way that's going to wreck the fill as you're about to see.
02:20 So we're going to want to bring back this version of the W to serve as a fill in
02:23 just a moment. All right, so the first thing I'm going to
02:26 do is press the Ctrl+Space Bar keys, or the Cmd+Space Bar keys on the Mac and
02:30 zoom in on this tiny little area there. So I just marqueed this area, and I'll
02:34 press the A key to get my White Arrow tool, and by the way, for this next
02:37 technique to work, you'll have to be selecting your paths by outline.
02:42 Which means in case you forget how that works, I'll press Ctrl+K or Cmd+K on the
02:45 Mac to bring up the preferences dialog box.
02:48 Now I'll switch to selection and anchor display and make sure this checkbox is
02:52 turned on, the object selection by path only.
02:55 Very important. I'll cancel out because mine was already on.
02:58 And now, I'll go ahead and marquee this tiny little area here between the two
03:01 anchor points. And I'll press the backspace key or the
03:04 delete key on a Mac to get rid of that segment.
03:07 And then I'll click off to deselect everything.
03:09 I'll click on this anchor point and press the left arrow key twice, in order to
03:12 nudge it two points to the left. And I'll select this guy and press the
03:16 right arrow key twice, in order to nudge it two points to the right.
03:20 Now I'll press Ctrl+0 or Cmd+0 on the Mac in order to zoom out.
03:23 And you can see that's done a nice job of aligning the end tile of this path, with
03:27 the start tile of this one. And that's exactly what we have to do
03:31 with these corners as well. All right.
03:33 Now let's get rid of that fill by pressing the V key to switch to the black
03:36 arrow tool. And note that we now have this one big
03:39 group if I click on it to select it. And you can see it's a group on the far
03:43 left side of the control panel. Don't want a group, so I'll go ahead and
03:46 choose the end group command from the object menu.
03:48 And now we're automatically left with a compound path that's divided into three subpaths.
03:54 To get rid of the fill, click on the first color swatch in the Control panel,
03:57 and change it to None. And then let's go ahead and build up the
04:01 strokes a little bit here. Notice that the white edges of the
04:03 strokes are interrupting each other? I don't want that.
04:06 So I'll switch over to the Appearance panel, click on that stroke to select it,
04:09 and then click on the Page icon at the bottom of the panel to make a copy of it.
04:13 And change this brush to the first one, looping lines pattern, the one that does
04:17 not contain the white outlines, and that way we just go ahead and cover up those intersections.
04:23 So everything looks great, and now I want to create a couple of copies of these
04:27 guys with smaller line weights, and so I'll click on this stroke right here the
04:30 bottom one, to select it, and then I'll make a copy of it.
04:35 And I'll change it's line weight from 1.4 to half of that, which is 0.7 in order to
04:39 produce this effect here. And then I'll make a copy of this guy as
04:43 well by selecting it, and then clicking on the little page icon.
04:46 And the I'll change it's line weight to 0.7 also.
04:50 And we end up with this effect here. All right, now we want to create the fill.
04:54 And you do that by pressing control b, or command b on the Mac, to paste back in
04:58 that original version of the W. The modified version that is a single big shape.
05:05 And you also want to go up to the object menu and choose ungroup so that you see
05:08 that it's a compound path. It's not neccesary as a compound path, by
05:13 the way. So you could drop down to the compound
05:15 path command and then choose release. And you'll see that we have a single path outline.
05:21 All right lets get rid of the stroke by changing it to none up here in the
05:24 control panel. And then here in the appearance panel,
05:27 grab the fill and create a copy of it and turn if off for just a second and go
05:30 ahead and click on the original one here, click on its color swatch and change it
05:33 to that shade of green. Now turn this fill back on and what we
05:39 want to do is turn it into a kind of wood pattern.
05:43 And you can do that by going up to the Effect menu, choosing Texture and then
05:47 choosing Grain. And then, inside of the big effect
05:51 gallery window here. Increase the intensity value to 100, and
05:56 take the contrast value up to 85, and change the grain type to vertical, like so.
06:01 And then go ahead and click Okay in order to accept that effect.
06:05 And we want to blend the white grain in with the green below, and to do that go
06:09 ahead to click on the word opacity there, below the black fill, and change its
06:12 blend mode to screen, and you'll end up with this effect here.
06:18 Now I also want thicker grain, this is too thin and I'm afraid it's not going to
06:21 print effectively. So go up to the effect menu, and choose
06:25 document raster effect settings, in order to reduce the resolution of the effect
06:30 from 300ppi, down to medium, 150ppi, and then click Okay, and that will render the
06:35 effect larger as you see here. Now, if you want it to be lighter, check
06:42 this out. I can change this fill to any shade of gray.
06:45 So, if I go all the way to white, then I'll end up with this effect here, where
06:48 we have darker lines instead of lighter lines.
06:51 And then, if I were to switch it to something like 50% gray, I'd get a kind
06:55 of even distribution of white and green. In this case, I decided I wanted to
07:00 lighten things up just a little bit. So, this is black.
07:03 An this is what you get if you switch to 90% black like so.
07:06 So it just lightens things up ever so slightly, but you still get white an
07:10 green as opposed to any sort of middling colors.
07:14 All right, now I want to multiply, the W into its background.
07:17 So go ahead an marquee both W's like so, using the black arrow tool here.
07:22 And then go up to the Object menu and the Group command.
07:25 Or press Ctrl+G or Cmd+G on a Mac. This is one of those times I actually
07:29 want a group. And now I'll click on the word Opacity up
07:32 here in the Control panel and change the Blend mode to Multiply in order to
07:35 produce this effect here. All right, we want to make just a couple
07:40 more changes. Go ahead and zoom in at the bottom here
07:42 right there. Notice how the fill doesn't quite rise up
07:45 to the stroke. So press the A key in order to get the
07:48 white arrow tool. Click right there on that segment in
07:51 order to select it, and then press the Up Arrow key once in order to move it up
07:54 like so. Then I'll press control zero, or command
07:58 zero on a Mac to zoom out. I'll control spacebar drag up here at
08:01 the top in order to check it out. Click on a segment to select it.
08:04 Press the down arrow key to move it down. One more time, press Ctrl+0, Cmd+0 on a
08:08 Mac, Ctrl+ or Cmd+Space Bar, drag around that little area.
08:12 Click on the segment with the wide area tool.
08:14 Press the up arrow key in order to take care of it as well.
08:17 And for the final time, go ahead and zoom out there.
08:20 And then the last thing that I want to do is change the color of this W to
08:24 something more rustic. And I could do that after the fact
08:29 because I created a global swatch in the first place.
08:33 So I'll just go ahead and double-click on this green swatch here inside the
08:36 swatches panel, and I'm going to change the red value to 150, and I'll change the
08:40 green value to 50, and then I'll click Okay.
08:44 And that goes ahead and updates the W as well as anything else that's associated
08:48 with the green swatch. And that friends is how you reconcile a
08:52 pattern brush at a very acute corner inside of a path outline here inside Illustrator.
08:57
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39. Charts and Pictographs
The pleasures and pitfalls of graphs
00:00 If I had to name Illustrator's most unexpected feature, it would be the
00:03 program's ability to create graphs. So you can actually import a spreadsheet
00:08 of data and generate bar graphs, and column graphs, and pie charts, and all
00:12 sorts of things. You can even create these things called
00:17 graph designs in order to render out just beautiful looking pictographs.
00:23 There's just one little problem. The first thing you have to do is decide
00:27 the size of your graph. And of course, you have no idea.
00:31 So what invariably happens is you create the graph all the way through.
00:35 And it ends up being the wrong proportions.
00:38 And the one thing you can't do to a graph, after you create it, Is scale it
00:41 non-proportionately because it'll just end up looking squished.
00:45 So what you have to do is recreate the graph from scratch now that you know what
00:50 size it's going to be. Now that sounds like a disaster, of
00:53 course, but it's actually something that goes by pretty quickly.
00:57 And we're going to do it in the final movie, you'll see.
00:59 So creating the graph in the first place takes some time and effort, and then
01:02 recreating it goes lickity split. Now I'd love to say, that this approach
01:07 is all my fault. I would totally, totally take the blame
01:11 if it were. But it's not.
01:13 It's, it's Illustrator's. But bless it's heart, it allows you to
01:18 create such great artwork that all we can do is forgive and forget.
01:24 As we will in the following movies.
01:26
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Importing and graphing numerical data
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to import and graph data inside of
00:03 illustrator, so that you're working from real hard numbers.
00:07 I'll go ahead and switch over to my starter document, and if you're working
00:10 along with me, you might want to turn off the text layer.
00:13 That'll just make things less confusing. So the first thing you'd have to do is
00:16 draw a boundary for your graph using one off the graph tools.
00:20 And they're all located down here. Notice the column graph is visible by default.
00:25 I'll go ahead and click and hold on it and release on the tear off bar.
00:29 And so we have a variety of different graphs that you can choose from.
00:32 You've got a vertical bar graph, which is better known as a column graph.
00:36 The horizontal bar graph is just a standard bar graph.
00:40 You also have a line graph, you can create an area graph, you can create pie
00:43 charts, what have you. You don't need to get too worked up about
00:47 that at this point, because you can always change the type of graph.
00:51 However I know I want a horizontal bar graph, so I'll go ahead and select the
00:53 bar graph tool, and then I'll close the little toolbox.
00:57 Now this is the trickiest moment in creating a graph, deciding how big it
01:00 should be and frankly between you and me, you're not going to get it right the
01:04 first time out so you mine as well just draw something that's roughly correct.
01:10 Now I know I want something along these lines but really, because this is just in
01:14 my mind's eye at this point I just know I want a graph that is wider than it is tall.
01:19 So I'll go ahead and drag something like this, in order to create such a graph,
01:22 and then I'll release. And as soon as you do, you'll see the
01:26 spreadsheet window up here on screen, I'll just go ahead and make it a little
01:30 bigger, and by default, it's got the value 1 inside of it, which is why we
01:33 have 1 big bar representing the number 1, and that's it.
01:40 Now you can just go ahead and enter some values if you want to.
01:42 For example, I'll enter x tab, y tab, z, and then drop down to the next row, and
01:47 let's do 3 tab, 5 tab 7, and how about 4 tab, 6 tab, 8, and then finally, 5 tab, 7
01:52 tab, 9. And then, to graph that data, you just go
01:58 ahead and click on the check mark in the upper right corner of the spreadsheet,
02:01 and you end up with this effect right there.
02:05 So I'll go ahead and close the spreadsheet, just so we can see what's
02:07 going on. And notice we have a legend over here
02:10 outside of the boundary what I drew, that's showing me that X is black, Y is
02:15 light gray, and Z is a medium gray. If you want to change the color of any
02:21 one of these bar graphs, very easy to do. But you have to do it with the white
02:25 arrow tool. So I'll press the A key to get the white
02:28 arrow tool because notice if you twirl open the graph layer here, you've got
02:31 this item called graph but you can't expand it inside the layers panel.
02:37 Instead, what you do is you click off the graph with the wide arrow tool to
02:40 deselect it. And then you basically alt click or
02:43 option click up the heiarchy. So, keep an eye on what's going on here.
02:47 I'll alt click once on this medium gray bar, and that will select it.
02:51 That would be an option click in a Mac. I'll alt or option click a second time,
02:55 and that selects all of the medium gray bars, but not the legend.
03:00 And then I'll Alt or Opt + Click a third time, and that selects a legend as well.
03:04 And now I can switch out the color just by clicking in the first color swatch up
03:08 here in the control panel, and I'll select for example, CMYK red, and that
03:11 swaps out all of those bars. And that turns out to be a very flexible
03:16 way to work, because you can still modify your data later on, and it will remain red.
03:21 Anyway I want totally different data. I'm going to press the V key to switch
03:25 from my black (INAUDIBLE) tool and I'll go and show you this document that I have
03:28 opened in excel and notice here it is a list of years by decade along with the
03:32 population of the United States in millions and this is accurate data which
03:35 I've saved out in advance. Now I can import this data into
03:42 illustrator but there is two things I can go wrong and I want you to see both of
03:45 those things just (INAUDIBLE) counter them as your working inside the program.
03:50 I'll go and switch back the illustrator click somewhere in the graph of the black
03:53 arrow tool to select the entire thing. And then right click anywhere in the
03:57 document window and choose data and that'll bring back my spreadsheet.
04:02 Now, you want to make sure that the first cell is selected inside the spreadsheet,
04:05 as it is in my case. And then click on this icon, Import Data.
04:10 And I'm going to navigate to the exercise file folder and then the 39 pictograph subfolder.
04:16 And I'll go ahead and select that file, which is an old file, XL format, but it's
04:19 compatible with just about every program out there.
04:22 And I'll click on the open button. And I'm going to see this very
04:25 bewildering alert message, the final couldn't be found negative 43.
04:29 And obviously, that's not the least bit helpful if it's the first time you've
04:33 seen this error message. But what it's telling you is that
04:36 illustrator's not capable of importing the data when it's open in Excel.
04:41 And this is frequently the case when you see a file can't be found message so just
04:44 go ahead and click OK, and I'll switch back to excel and I'll go ahead and close
04:48 the document. And now if I switch back to illustator
04:53 and click on the import data button and then go ahead and navigate to that 39
04:57 pictogram folder select that file again and click on the open button this is a
05:00 second problem you might encounter. Illustrator can't accommodate Excel documents.
05:08 So even though it will show me the file, and it will allow me to select the file,
05:11 it can't open the file, because it needs a tab delimited text file.
05:16 Which is not a problem, by the way, just a hiccup.
05:19 Like any good spreadsheet program. Excel and every other number crunching
05:23 program out there, can export a tab delimited text file.
05:27 Which just means that it's a text file, with tabs between the columns of data.
05:31 And I've created such a file for you in advance.
05:33 So just click OK. Click on that import data button again,
05:37 go ahead and locate that 39 pictograph folder, and select this document here.
05:42 Total US population data.txt and click Open again, and this time we get the data.
05:48 And notice it comes in kind of strange, and that's because at some point I went
05:51 ahead and clicked in a different cell, and so the data always begins at the
05:54 selected cell, which is actually a good thing.
05:58 It's a little bit of a pain in the neck for us, but it's a good thing in general.
06:01 Because it means you can combine multiple data files inside a single graph.
06:06 So, to move this into the right location, you just want to drag across it like so.
06:10 And then press Ctrl + X or Cmd + X on a Mac to cut it, and then click in the
06:13 upper left cell there and press Ctrl + V or Cmd + V to paste it.
06:19 And we don't want this third column of data anymore, so drag across it and press
06:23 Ctrl + X or Cmd + X on a Mac, to get rid of all of it at the same time.
06:29 And then go ahead and click on the check mark in order to apply that data.
06:33 And what ends up happening it's hard to see from here, I'll go ahead and close
06:35 the spreadsheet. But Illustrator's gotten confused, or
06:39 more accurately, I haven't told it the right thing to do, because it's mapping
06:43 both the years and the population numbers inside of my graph.
06:48 Even so, we have a really great start. So that's how you start things off, by
06:53 importing and graphing data inside of Illustrator.
06:56 In the next movie, I'll show you how to modify the data so we get the desired results
07:02
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Modifying data to create a category axis
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to modify your data, so you can tell Illustrator
00:04 exactly which values you want to graph, and which you don't.
00:08 For example in our case, and I've gone ahead and zoomed out so we can see both
00:11 the graph and the legend at the same time.
00:14 The years are being graphed in black, and they're so much bigger than the light
00:18 gray population values, because the population values are listed in millions.
00:23 So in other words, they're smaller numbers in so far as Illustrator is concerned.
00:28 I want to tell Illustrator to ignore the year numbers, and to list those numbers
00:31 on a category axis, which is the vertical axis in the case of horizontal bar chart.
00:37 And to do that, as well as get rid of the legend, because I don't want that there
00:41 either, make sure the graph is selected. Then right click anywhere in the document
00:45 window, and choose the data command, and that'll bring up the spreadsheet once again.
00:50 Now notice that we can't really see the legend information up here at the top.
00:54 And we have two decimal digits as well. If you want to change either those settings.
00:59 Then you click on this icon right there, sell style, and notice the very first
01:03 option controls the number of decimals. So go ahead and change that to zero, and
01:08 then we can define the column width here inside the spreadsheet in terms of digits.
01:14 And where this data is concerned, 12 digits works out nicely.
01:18 So I'll go ahead and click okay. And notice that cleans things up quite a
01:21 bit here. But that has no effect, by the way, on
01:24 the appearance of the graph inside of the document window.
01:27 So if I were to click the apply button, nothing's going to happen.
01:31 What we need to do is change the numbers that we don't want to graph.
01:35 And if you don't want to graph a number, then you go ahead and select its cell.
01:39 You click in front of the number, and you enter a double quotation mark, so Shift
01:43 quote in other words. And then you press the enter key to
01:46 advance to the next number, and you click in front of it, and you do the same thing.
01:51 And then in our case, you have to repeat that operation 100 times, so that's kind
01:55 of a pain in the neck. Which is why I've gone ahead and created
01:58 some new data for you. And to import it, just go ahead and click
02:03 on 1900, and then click on the import data icon for the last time.
02:08 And go ahead and navigate to the 39 pictographs folder, if you're working
02:11 along with me, and select this file. Population with quotes.txt, and click on
02:15 the open button, and that will go ahead and import all the numbers with quote
02:19 marks in front of them. And now notice, I'll go and scoot this
02:23 down a little bit. If I click on the check mark, then I am
02:26 now graphing only the population data. And my legend now reads, total
02:31 population, and that's it. And all of my years now appear on the
02:35 vertical category axis. So everything's exactly the way it should be.
02:40 Now it's ugly of course, and we're going to have to fix that.
02:43 But we're at least graphing the proper data.
02:46 Now if you don't want a legend, then you have to get rid of the words at the top
02:49 of your table. And the best way to do that, in our case
02:53 is to go ahead and drag for 1900 down to the cell below 438.
02:59 In order to select an extra cell. That way we'll end up replacing the cell
03:02 right there. And you'll see what I mean in a minute,
03:05 but just go ahead and do it for now. And press Control C or Command C on the
03:09 Mac to copy that data. Then click on the word years and press
03:13 Control V, or Command V on the Mac, in order to paste everything.
03:17 And because you copied an extra row of cells there, you went ahead and replaced
03:21 what used to be 2050 with empty information.
03:24 And that's very important. Because otherwise you'll end up
03:27 duplicating data inside the graph, and you dpn't want to do that.
03:31 Now go ahead and click on the apply button, and you'll see that the legend disappears.
03:36 All right, at this point we're done with the spread sheet, so you can go ahead and
03:39 close it. And I'll press Control zero, or Command
03:42 zero on the Mac, in order to zoom in on our ugly, but extremely accurate bar chart.
03:49 So remember, if you don't want to graph a value inside the spreadsheet, then you
03:52 need to go ahead and put a double quote mark in front of it.
03:56 And if you don't want a legend to the side of the spreadsheet, then you need to
03:59 make sure that those first cells, right at the top, are filled with actual
04:03 numerical data.
04:05
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Reformatting text and values in a graph
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to modify and reformat the text associated
00:04 with the graph. Specifically, we need to modify the
00:08 numbers that are associated with the horizontal value axis, as well as the
00:12 vertical category axis. Now, the biggest problem here is that the
00:17 numbers are too darn large. So, the first thing I'm going to do is
00:21 click on the graph with the Black Arrow tool to select the entire thing.
00:24 And then, you can reformat those numbers as much as you'd like.
00:28 Either up here in the Control panel, or by bringing up the Character panel.
00:31 So you could change the font, or the style, or what have you.
00:35 I just want to change the size. So, I'll go ahead and click on that size
00:38 value and take it down to 10.5, which is going to seem awfully darn dinky at first.
00:42 But it's going to work out great in the long run.
00:44 Now, we've got a couple of other problems here.
00:47 For one thing, these bottom numbers are too far out from the value axis.
00:51 And to select them, I'll just press the a key to switch to the White Arrow tool.
00:55 And I'm just going to marquee these guys, like so, in order to select them.
00:59 My keyboard increment, which I can see if I press Ctrl+K or Cmd+K on a Mac, is set
01:03 to one point. I'll go ahead and cancel out.
01:07 And then I'll press Shift+Up arrow a couple of times in a row in order to
01:10 scoot those numbers into a better location.
01:14 All right, now let's address this column of numbers along the category axis.
01:17 Notice that because of the asterisk here, the numbers should not be right aligned,
01:21 as they are by default, they should be left aligned.
01:26 So an alternate way, by the way, to select your text is to Alt-click or
01:29 Option-click up the hierarchy. And to select all the numbers associated
01:35 with the category axis, or the value axis for that matter, you just Alt-click
01:39 twice, or Option-click twice on a Mac. Notice I'm not saying double-click,
01:45 because if you Alt+double-click or Option+double-click, then you'll enter
01:48 the text entry mode. Which brings up an interesting point.
01:52 I can change that text if I want. I could go ahead and replace it with
01:57 anything I want, even text text as opposed to numbers.
02:01 However, any modification you make to these values here, whether it's a value
02:06 number or a category number or part of the legend, is subject to automatic
02:10 replacement if you modify some other graph setting.
02:15 For example, if I go ahead and click on the graph with is now my Black Arrow tool
02:19 and I right-click and then choose data, I can change any value here.
02:25 For example, 76 is actually 76.212. I could just get rid of the 2 and replace
02:31 the 2, like that. I'm not really making any significant
02:35 modification at all, but as soon as I click on the Apply button, 2010 gets replaced.
02:41 And that's because these values inside the spreadsheet take precedent over everything.
02:47 So, I'll go ahead and close out here. Now that's not to say that you can't
02:50 replace these values if you want to. You can edit the text, it's just that
02:54 it's temporary, so you want to make any modifications to the text at the very end
02:58 of the process. However, formatting changes stick.
03:04 So, I'll go ahead and press the a key once again, to get the White Arrow tool,
03:07 click off the graph to deselect it, Alt-click once, and then twice.
03:12 That would be Option-click once, and then twice on the Mac in order to select all
03:15 of those category numbers, like so. And then go up to the Control panel and
03:20 click on the Align Left icon. Or you can just press Ctrl+Shift+L or
03:25 Cmd+Shift+L on a Mac. All right, now these guys are too far over
03:28 to the right obviously. So, I'll press Shift+Left arrow a couple
03:31 of times. And then, I'll zoom out just a little bit
03:33 so I can better see what I'm doing. And I'll press Shift+Up arrow because I
03:37 want to center those guys on their bars in order to produce this effect here.
03:41 And that looks pretty good for now. You don't have to get it exactly right at
03:44 this point, because you may have to make further adjustments in the future.
03:48 All right, I'll go ahead and zoom out so I can take in the entire graph, like so.
03:52 And then, still armed with my White Arrow tool, I'll go ahead and alter,
03:55 Option-click a couple of times on any one of the bars.
03:59 And I'm going to change the color of the bars to this nice shade of blue here so
04:03 that they're a little easier to look at. And I'm also just going to get rid of the
04:07 stroke because I don't want any stroke associated with these bars.
04:11 Although, it doesn't really matter at this point because we're going to
04:13 override them with little people icons. All right, I'll go ahead a press the Esc
04:17 key in order to hide that panel. And I'll press the V key to switch back
04:20 to the Black Arrow tool, and I'll click on the graph to select the entire thing.
04:24 And here's what I want you to see. You can now make big modifications to the graph.
04:29 And all of your formatting is going to remain intact.
04:31 So, I'll right-click anywhere inside the document window.
04:34 And I'll choose the Type command, which we'll be visiting in all kinds of detail
04:38 in the next movie. That brings up this big dialog box right here.
04:43 And I'll go ahead and switch over to the Column graph let's say, so we'll get a
04:47 vertical bar graph, and I'll click OK. And you can see that even though I've
04:53 modified the graph like crazy, all of my formatting remains in place.
04:58 Now, my positioning is a little off, as you can see here.
05:01 1900 doesn't exactly line up with the first bar and so forth.
05:06 But I could modify that quite easily just by switching back to the White Arrow tool.
05:09 I'll just go ahead and marquee these guys, like so.
05:12 And then, press Shift+Right arrow a couple of times, and then I'll grab these
05:15 guys like so, that are now part of the vertical axis.
05:19 This is still the value axis by the way, it's just switched to vertical because
05:22 we're working inside of a column graph. And I'll press Shift+Up arrow to raise
05:26 them as well. So, you may have to sometimes make these
05:29 kinds of manual positioning modifications.
05:32 But your formatting will always remain intact, regardless of what kind of
05:35 changes you make to your graph in the future.
05:39
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Changing the Graph Type settings
00:00 In this movie, I'll take you on a tour of the graph type options, which allow you
00:03 to control both the fundamental appearance of the graph, as well as the
00:07 appearance of the value and the category axes.
00:11 So I'll start things off by clicking on the graph in order to select it with the
00:14 black arrow tool, and then I'll right click anywhere in the document window and
00:17 choose the type command. We've seen how you can change the type of
00:22 the graph, so I could switch to an area graph for example.
00:26 Problem with this dialog box is that it doesn't have a preview check box, so you
00:30 can't actually preview your changes on screen.
00:34 Instead you have to click OK, in order to see what happens.
00:37 And there we have it a filled in area graph, fine.
00:41 Which is great, by the way, for showing changes over time.
00:44 So the steepness of the segments indicates a steep incline in the population.
00:49 For example, right there is the classic baby boom.
00:52 I'll go ahead and right click once again and choose type, because this is
00:55 definitely not the kind of graph I want. I'm going to switch back for now to
00:59 vertical column graph. You can decide where the value axis lies.
01:03 It can be on the left side in this case, or the right side, or on both sides if
01:05 you want. If I were to switch to a bar graph, I
01:09 could choose from bottom side, top side, or both sides.
01:14 But typically, you want the default setting, which is going to be left for a
01:17 column graph and bottom, for a bar graph. You know some other check boxes you can
01:22 play around with, but they're nothing to write home about, just drop shadows, hard
01:25 edged, looks terrible. These options are a little more interesting.
01:29 The idea is how thick do you want the columns to be inside of the cluster area.
01:34 So if I had multiple values per category, for example as I did with x, y, and z,
01:40 then those would be considered a cluster. We'd have three bars together and 80%
01:47 would define how big that area is. And to make myself clear I'll go ahead
01:52 and click OK in order to switch back to the column graph.
01:55 Basically each one of these columns is taking up 90% inside of an 80% area.
02:01 And that way we've got a gap between each one of the columns.
02:05 If I wanted to make the columns thicker, which I do, then I'd right click inside
02:09 of the document window, choose type, and modify one of these values.
02:14 I'm going to change column width to 100%. And if I were to also take cluster width
02:19 up to 100% and click OK, then you can see that goes ahead and smashes all of the
02:22 bars together. Whereas if I right click inside of there,
02:27 and choose type, and then reduce one of these values, I'll take cluster back down
02:31 to 80% and click OK. Then I still have some room between these guys.
02:37 So Cluster With specifically becomes important when you have multiple values
02:41 per category, and you've got a legend and all that stuff.
02:46 Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and right-click.
02:47 Once again, inside the graph, and I'll choose Type.
02:51 And then I'll switch to Value Axis butI want you to see that you can change the
02:54 link to the tick marks. So for example I could change them to
02:58 full width and then click okay and all this we then have tick marks that go
03:01 across the full width of the graph. I could do the same thing with the
03:06 category axis by once again right clicking and choosing type.
03:10 This time I'll switch to category axis and change its link to full width as well.
03:15 And then I could click OK at this point to see long tick marks between each one
03:19 of the bars or if I want the tick marks to be centered on the bars, I would turn
03:22 off this check mark right here and then I would click OK and notice now the tick
03:25 marks are centered. Now that's not even remotely what I want.
03:32 What I'm looking for is the following. I'm going to Right click choose Type.
03:36 And then I'm going to switch back to my bar graph.
03:40 I want the bar width to be 100%. So I'll go ahead and change that value.
03:44 A cluster width of 80% is just fine. I'll switch to my category axis.
03:49 And I'll set the length to none. 'Cuz I don't want to see any tick marks whatsoever.
03:54 And then I'll switch to my Value Axis and I'll change that to None as well.
04:00 And then I'll go ahead and click OK and we end up with this graph right here.
04:04 Now my final issue is the length of the graph.
04:08 Notice that the population peters out at something like 438 million.
04:13 And yet my Value Axis goes all the way to 500 million and the values are spaced out
04:18 at 100 million increments. That's not what I want at all.
04:23 Instead I want this whole Value Axis to stop at 400 million and I want 50 million increments.
04:30 So, I'll right click in the document window and choose type once again.
04:33 And then I'll switch over to value axis and notice I can override the calculated
04:37 values by turning on this check mark. I want the minimum to be zero, so I'll
04:42 just leave that value alone. And I want the maximum to be 400.
04:47 And I want the divisions to be 50 apart from each other, so 400 divided by 50 is eight.
04:55 So I'll go ahead and enter eight divisions, and then that's it.
04:57 I'll click OK, and I end up with this effect here.
05:00 So you can see the value axis stops at 400, and then I'm seeing values at every
05:05 50 million increment. Which will prove to be much more helpful
05:10 in the long run. All right, that's how you go about
05:13 modifying the various graph type attributes including modifying the value
05:18 and category axis. In the next movie, I'll show you how to
05:22 create a graph design, so we can fill the bars with these human symbols.
05:27
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Creating and applying a graph design
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to create what's known as a Graph Design, which
00:03 will allow us to fill the bar chart full of these human figures.
00:08 Now, before we get any further here, I'm going to press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac,
00:12 and zoom in on the final version of this document, so that you can see that these
00:16 guys are laid out inside rectangles. And the rectangles determine the amount
00:23 of spacing between one figure and the next.
00:26 And you have to have them in there in order to create a graph design.
00:31 So, I'll go ahead and switch over to my document in progress.
00:33 And if you scroll over to the left side, inside the pasteboard, you'll see that
00:37 I've got this big figure that I've created in advance.
00:40 You can go ahead and zoom in on him here. But we need to draw a rectangle around him.
00:45 So, I'm going to start by drawing a very exact rectangle that precisely fits him
00:49 by going to the View menu and turning on Smart Guides, if it isn't turned on
00:52 already, and then, I'll switch to the Rectangle tool.
00:58 And I'll move my cursor up here so that I'm finding the intersection of the top
01:01 of the guy's head and the left side of his arm.
01:05 And I'll drag down until I snap into alignment with the right side of the guys
01:09 arm and the bottom of his legs. And then I'll go ahead and release.
01:13 Now, you can have a fill associated with your rectangle if you want to.
01:17 But it's not going to do us any good. So I'll just go ahead and change the fill
01:21 to none. Now, I'll zoom out a click by pressing Ctrl+minus.
01:25 I'll press the A key to get my White Arrow tool.
01:27 I want 10 points of space between either side of this guy.
01:31 So I'll just go ahead and marquee the right-hand segment and I'll press
01:34 Shift+right arrow a couple of times to move it 20 points to the right.
01:39 And then I'll marquee the top segment and press Shift+up arrow a couple of times,
01:42 and then I'll Alt-click or Option-click on the outline of the rectangle to select
01:46 it, and I'll press Shift+down arrow and Shift+left arrow to move it back into place.
01:52 All right, now let's turn him into a graph design.
01:54 Press the V key to switch to the Black Arrow tool, and go ahead and marquee both
01:57 of these shapes to select them. And then you want to go up to the Object
02:02 menu, choose Graph way down here at the bottom.
02:05 And notice here's where the Data and Type commands live, along with the other Graph
02:08 commands of course. You want to choose Design.
02:11 So the Design command allows you to create and modify your existing designs.
02:17 Column allows you to apply your design to a graph that includes columns, such as a
02:21 column or bar graph. And marker allows you to apply your
02:25 designs to a line or area graph. Anyway, we want to make a design.
02:30 So go ahead and choose the Design command.
02:32 And then click on the New Design button in order to make a new design that's
02:35 called new design. And then you have to rename it, in an
02:39 additional step, by clicking on the Rename button.
02:42 And I'll go ahead and call this guy 10 million, let's say, because he represents
02:46 10 million people. And I'll click OK, and that's all there
02:49 is to that. And I'll click OK in order to create the design.
02:54 All right, now let's apply it to the graph.
02:56 So I'll press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on a Mac, in order to center my zoom.
03:00 And I'll go ahead and click on a graph to select it.
03:02 And then, I'll right-click somewhere in the Document window, and you want to
03:05 choose column this time, cause we're applying it to a column style graph.
03:10 And notice in addition to 10 million, the one that I just created, there's also
03:13 figures one and two, if you're working along with me, because they're included
03:17 in the other open document. So you can share designs between documents.
03:23 All right now, we don't have a legend, so the Rotate Legend Design check box
03:26 doesn't make any difference. Notice that the first column type is
03:30 vertically scaled. Well, it really means horizontally scaled
03:33 in our case, because we have a horizontal bar graph.
03:36 So, just go ahead and select it, and click OK, and you'll end up stretching
03:40 these guys out as you see here. I'll press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on a Mac, so
03:45 we can better see that. And we're actually going to get a better
03:48 impression of how things are working in general.
03:50 If you right-click somewhere in the Document window, choose Type, and go
03:54 ahead and switch back to a column graph. And then click OK.
03:58 And now we can see how these guys get stretched vertically inside of the
04:02 equivalent of a vertical bar graph. And this'll give us a better sense of
04:07 what's going on with the other options as well.
04:09 All right, now right-click again and choose Column, so that we can switch to a
04:12 different setting here. This time I'm going to change Column Type
04:16 to Uniformly Scaled. You're almost never going to want to use
04:19 this setting. And I want you to see what it looks like.
04:22 Instead of stretching the figures, it's going to uniformly scale them.
04:27 So that they get bigger and bigger and they start overlapping on top of each
04:30 other as well. So, that's another way to work.
04:33 It does make the point that the population in 1900 was a heck of a lot
04:37 smaller than it might be in 2050. But it's difficult to tell what's going on.
04:43 Anyway, I'm going to right-click and choose Column once again.
04:46 And then, I'll go ahead and change this guy to repeating.
04:50 So you can get a sense of what that looks like.
04:52 Then I'll click OK, and I always forget this part.
04:55 We've gotta fill out this each design represents X number of units option.
04:59 So I'll click OK again to hide the alert message and the answer is 10.
05:03 So, he represents 10 million people. Now click O:, and we can see him repeated
05:09 at a very sort of bacterial level inside of the charts.
05:14 So, obviously that's not the effect I'm going for.
05:18 Anyway. I'll go ahead and zoom out.
05:19 The last one I want to show you is very interesting.
05:22 I'll go ahead and right-click and choose the Column command.
05:25 And this time I'll switch to Sliding, which is going to stretch our guy at a
05:29 specific point. Now click OK.
05:32 And you can see that it's stretching him in a pretty interesting way that doesn't
05:37 harm his legs or his head. So his head never gets smashed at any
05:41 point, just makes his arms and his torso either very short or very long.
05:46 And what's happening is by default, I'll go ahead and zoom in on this guy and
05:49 select him as well. And I'll have to press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on
05:53 a Mac to see what's going on. By default, Illustrator goes ahead and
05:57 creates the sliding mark right there at the center of the guy.
06:02 And so that occurs in his torso and his arms.
06:05 But what if you want to just stretch his legs?
06:08 Well, here's what you do. Go ahead and grab the Line tool.
06:11 And then you want to draw a horizontal line across the guy, like so, at
06:14 whichever point you want to stretch. And now, you want to go up to the View
06:20 menu, choose Guides, and choose Make Guides or you can press Ctrl+5 or Cmd+5
06:24 on a Mac. And then you need to return to that menu.
06:29 Go to the View menu, choose Guides, and this time, choose Lock Guides to turn it off.
06:34 because you need to unlock the guides. And that's Ctrl+Alt+Semicolon,
06:37 Cmd+Option+Semicolon on a Mac, for what that's worth.
06:41 Now I'll press the V key to switch back to my Black Arrow tool, and I'll marquee
06:44 all three of these guys like so. So I've selected the figure, the
06:48 rectangle, and the guide. And now you want to go back to the Object
06:52 menu, choose Graph, and choose Design. And click on New Design to create a new
06:57 one, click on Rename, and let's call this guy Long Legs, because that's what he'll be.
07:02 Now click OK a couple of times in order to create that new design.
07:06 Press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on a Mac, to switch back to the document.
07:10 Click inside of the graph in order to select it.
07:13 I'm going to press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H again just to hide those edges.
07:17 And I'll right-click, choose Column, and let's go ahead and leave the Column Type
07:22 set to Sliding, but I'll select long legs instead, and then click OK and we end up
07:26 getting this fairly hilarious effect here.
07:31 So his legs just keep growing and growing as he gets bigger and bigger.
07:35 Problem is, none that these things are what I want.
07:38 I'm going to right-click and switch my Type back to the Bar Graph, and click OK.
07:45 And that ends up creating this effect. And then I'll right-click again, choose
07:49 Column, and I'm looking for that same guy, 10 million, that original guy, but I
07:53 want to repeat him over and over again, and I want him to represent 10 units, so
07:57 that's fine. I'll click OK, and he ends up being
08:02 sideways, which is not what I want. And he's tiny as well.
08:07 So how do we correct for this problem? Well, I'll show you exactly how in the
08:11 next movie.
08:13
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Repairing a broken pictograph
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to repair a broken pictograph.
00:04 Specifically in our case, we need to take these tiny little dudes here, and rotate
00:08 them so that they're upright. But if you click on the graph in order to
00:13 select it, and you may need to press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on the Mac, in order to
00:16 bring back your selection edges, and then right click and choose Column.
00:21 You may notice that while you can rotate the legend design, there's no option for
00:25 rotating the design inside the actual graph.
00:29 So instead you need to redefine the graph design.
00:31 So I'll go ahead and cancel out of here, and I'll zoom out once again and switch
00:36 over to this guy. And I'll go ahead and grab him like so,
00:40 and I don't need the guide this time around.
00:43 I'll just get him. And I'll create a copy of him, by
00:45 dragging him over to the side here and pressing the Alt key or the Option key on
00:49 the Mac. Now he's laying down 90 degrees clockwise
00:53 inside the graph. So I need to rotate him 90 degrees
00:56 counter-clockwise to compensate. So, I'll double-click on the rotate tool,
01:00 here inside the tool box. And I'll change the angle value to 90
01:04 degrees, and then I'll turn on the Preview Check Box, and sure enough, that
01:07 puts him on his right side I guess, if he's facing us.
01:11 Anyway, makes him look like that, and now I'll click Okay in order to accept that change.
01:16 And now you want to go up to the Object menu, choose Graph, and choose Design.
01:21 And I'll click on the New Design button. And then I'll click on Rename and I'll go
01:25 ahead and call this guy ten horizontal. Because that indicates he's worth ten in
01:30 a horizontal bar graph. And I'll click okay and then click okay again.
01:34 All right, well, let's return to the graph and press the v key to switch to
01:37 the black arrow tool. Go ahead and select the graph.
01:41 Right click, choose column. And select 10 Horizontal.
01:45 Make sure Column Type is still set to Repeating and that each design represents
01:50 ten units and then click Okay and we end up with this effect here, which is a
01:53 mess, of course. We'll resolve that later.
01:58 But for now, press Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on a Mac.
02:00 So I can show you, if we go ahead and Zoom In up here, notice these little
02:04 fractional units, that don't represent a full guy.
02:08 And what's happening is by default Illustrator is scaling the guy to fit in
02:12 this space that's terrible design in my opinion I'll go ahead and right click and
02:16 choose Column once again because this is something that we can fix inside the
02:20 graph column dialog box just by dropping down to four fractions and
02:23 changing it to Chop Design, which will go ahead and of course clip the designs.
02:32 And I'll click okay. And now notice that we're clipping each
02:35 of these guys instead. Well what do we do about the much larger
02:39 problem, with the guy overlapping all over the place.
02:43 Well that's an issue, that requires an absolute restart of this graph.
02:47 Thankfully, it's going to go pretty quickly, as I'll demonstrate in the next movie.
02:52
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Recreating a graph at the proper size
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to take this mess of a pictograph that me have so
00:03 far, and turn it into this good looking pictograph, in which the guys are spaced
00:07 away from each other and the graph isn't so wide either.
00:12 So, it's well inside the art board, the problem is, while you can scale a graph
00:16 in Illustrator as much as you wan proportionally.
00:20 There is no god way to scale it non-proportionally without distorting the
00:24 elements in the graph. Which is why, and this is going to sound
00:28 like tragic news, the best way to work is to start over.
00:32 The good news is that we've got a lot of the work done, so Illustrator's going to
00:35 stick with the settings that we've used in the past.
00:39 We've already established our design, we already have the data, and we have a
00:42 bunch of default settings established now as well.
00:46 So, the first thing you want to do here is look at the problems with the graph.
00:51 So, I'll go ahead and zoom out a little bit here and the big problem is, it's too
00:54 wide because it goes outside of the art board and it's not tall enough.
00:59 So, we need to create a new graph that's taller and narrower.
01:03 Knowing that I'll go ahead and zoom back in and I'm going to select our existing
01:07 graph, and I'm going to press the Backspace key or the Delete key on the
01:10 Mac to get rid of it. I know it seems tragic but it's going to
01:14 work out pretty well. Next you want to go ahead and select your
01:18 Bar Graph tool. And if you're working along with me,
01:21 press Ctrl+R or Cmd+R on a Mac in order to bring up the rulers.
01:25 Right-click on one of the rulers, and let's go ahead and switch to inches, if
01:28 you're comfortable with them, because it's going to make it easier in order to
01:32 get this job done. And then, click someplace inside the
01:37 document window in order to bring up these numerical values.
01:41 And they will be the last values you apply, so now we know our last version of
01:44 the graph. In my case anyway, yours might be
01:48 different, mine was 10.3 inches, by just a little over 6 inches.
01:53 Now I figured this out through trial and error, by the way.
01:55 It took me about 15 minutes, of sort of stabbing at it here.
02:00 But I'd figure it'd work if I took the width of the graph down to 9.5 inches,
02:04 and then I raised the height to 8 inches. And that still fits inside the art board
02:09 and it makes everything work out as well. So this is, and I totally apologize on
02:14 the behalf of graphs in Illustrator. They just haven't been revisited lately,
02:20 and this is the big problem with them right here.
02:23 If they're not scaled properly in the first place, which would be a miracle,
02:26 then you really do have to recreate them at a point.
02:29 Now click Ok in order to make that graph, and go ahead and click on Import Data,
02:33 and find that data once again. And you may recall, we have more
02:38 documents now, that it's population with quotes.txt, then go ahead and click Open
02:43 in order to open up that data. And you'll see it right there, and all
02:47 you need to do now is click on the Apply button, and you'll graph the data inside
02:50 the document window. All right.
02:53 Go ahead and close the spreadsheet, press Ctrl+R or Cmd+R on a Mac in order to hide
02:57 the rulers. And let's go and center this just a
03:00 little better so we can kind of see what's going on.
03:04 And at this point we need to change the font size, so I'll go ahead and select
03:07 the type size there and change it to 10.5 points like so, and we'll mess around
03:11 with the position of the text in just a moment.
03:16 But let's apply the graph design first because we really need to figure that out
03:19 that's our biggest problem of all. So right-click inside of the document
03:24 window and choose Type for starters just to confirm everything is still set up the
03:27 way it was before. So we've got a bar Width of 100%,
03:31 Clusters 80%, that's what we want it, Value Axis, the length of the tick marks
03:36 is none, minimum is 0, max is 400, divisions are 8.
03:41 And for Category Axis we don't have any tick marks either.
03:45 So, good news it remembered our old settings, yay.
03:48 I'll go ahead and cancel out of there, and then I'll right-click and choose
03:52 Column in order to assign the design called 10 Horizontal to our columns.
03:58 We do not want them to be vertically-scaled, we want them to repeat.
04:01 I've got to enter 10 for the units, and we want to chop the designs.
04:06 And then click OK in order to create those little dudes, and it's looking
04:10 pretty darn good but it occurred to me, you know what, I think we could use a
04:14 little space here. And I think I make the point of an
04:19 increasing population overtime without the year 1900.
04:23 So, I'm going to go ahead and right-click once again and choose Data.
04:27 And I'll go ahead and increase the size of the spreadsheet here, like so.
04:31 And I'll select from this empty cell, up to 1910, press Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on a Mac
04:36 to copy that data, click in the very first cell, and press Ctrl+V, or Cmd+V on
04:40 a Mac, in order to paste. And then I'll click on the Apply button,
04:45 and that goes ahead and gives us the space we're looking for.
04:49 All right, now I'll go ahead and close the spreadsheet window.
04:52 And I'll press the A key in order to switch to my Wide Arrow tool.
04:55 And I'll go ahead and marquee the category values.
04:57 They need to be left aligned, so I'll click on the align left icon over here in
05:00 the right side of the Control panel. And then I'll press Shift+Left Arrow a
05:05 couple of times, Shift+Up Arrow as well. And that looks pretty good, but I might
05:09 take them down a couple of points just by pressing the Down Arrow key.
05:13 Now I'll scroll down to these guys, marquee them, and press Shift+Up Arrow a
05:17 couple of times like so. And then I'll switch back to my Black
05:21 Arrow tool, and I'll go in, zoom out, and then I'll bring back my text.
05:26 So, we can get a sense of where this guy belongs, now he's a little bit too tall.
05:30 And a little bit too wide as well, scaling proportionally is never a problem.
05:35 So, just go ahead and click on your graph and then press the S key to switch to the
05:39 Scale tool. And I'm going to Alt+Click right about
05:42 there, Option+Click on the Mac, to bring up the Scale dialog box.
05:46 And I'm going to take the uniform value down to 97% just to decrease the size of
05:50 the graph ever so slightly, and now I'll click OK.
05:54 And that has an effect on the selected values as well.
05:58 Notice I took the type size down to 10.19 point.
06:00 I don't want that, so I'm going to return it to 10.5 points, like that.
06:05 And now, I think everything's going to work out pretty well.
06:08 I want to make sure that the top of the guys here are aligned to the top of the
06:12 title, which they are. So, I'll just go ahead and shift drag
06:16 them over until the zero left lines to that asterisk that little definition of
06:21 what's going on below. And we end up with this effect here.
06:26 Now just one more change, I'm going to go ahead and zoom in on the lower right
06:29 corner of the document, and press the A key to switch to the White Arrow tool.
06:34 I want this guy right there, the end of the value axis to align with the end of
06:37 this guy right there. So I'll press Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y on the
06:42 Mac, in order to switch to the Preview mode.
06:44 This is the line I'm trying to align to, as it's essentially a clipping mask
06:47 that's built into the graph. So, I'll go ahead and drag this guy over
06:51 until he snaps into alignment. And you know what would help, if I had
06:55 Smart Guide turned on, so I'll undo that. Press Ctrl+U, or Cmd+U on a Mac, because
06:59 I had turned them off. And I'll go ahead and drag that guy over
07:02 until he snaps into alignment like so. And then I'll double-click on the Wide
07:07 Arrow tool to bring up the move dialog box, change the horizontal value to zero
07:10 and just change the vertical value from negative to positive like so.
07:15 And that'll go ahead and move that guy down where he belongs and click OK.
07:19 All right, now I'll press Ctrl+0, Cmd+0 on a Mac, Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac, press
07:23 the V key to switch to the Move tool, click off the graph in order to deselect
07:27 it, and that is the final version of the graph.
07:32 Thanks to all that legwork that we did in advance, we were able to recreate this
07:36 entire graph, as painful as that sounded, in a matter of minutes, here inside Illustrator.
07:44
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40. 3D Effects
The five advantages to 3D in Illustrator
00:00 In this final chapter, I'll introduce you to the world of 3D inside of Illustrator.
00:05 Now you may be aware that Illustrator's sister program, specifically Photoshop
00:09 Extended, offers a wide array of 3D features as well.
00:13 So it's important to know which program to use when.
00:17 Which is why I offer this helpful analogy.
00:20 If you think of 3D in Photoshop as being as big as the sun, then 3D in Illustrator
00:25 is approximately the size of a small rock.
00:29 It's just a dinky feature set by comparison.
00:33 In Photoshop you can construct entire 3D scenes, you can have objects interact
00:37 with each other, you can cast shadows all over the place, you can ray trace, and
00:41 you can achieve photorealistic results. In Illustrator, each object is
00:47 independent, they can't interact with each other, they cannot cast shadows, and
00:51 you get, by comparison, synthetic results.
00:54 And yet, I would tell you that Illustrator's 3D features offer five
00:59 important advantages. One, it's a dynamic effect, and you can
01:03 quickly change your mind any time you like.
01:06 Two, it does a bang-up job of creating 3D symbols, particularly those with beveled edges.
01:13 Three, you can create 3D type in no time at all.
01:17 Four, you can create 3D revolutions, so you can take a half a circle, for
01:22 example, and revolve it around an axis to create a sphere.
01:28 And then 5, you can map art onto your 3D objects.
01:32 Not surprisingly I cover every single one of these awesome advantages in the
01:38 following movies.
01:41
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Introducing the three kinds of 3D in Illustrator
00:00 In this movie, I'll introduce you to the three varieties of 3D inside of
00:04 Illustrator, which include 3D Rotate, 3D Extrude and Bevel, and 3D Revolve.
00:10 I'll start things off by selecting this bow and knot pattern here, which is a
00:14 single compound path, and then I'll go up to the Effect menu, choose 3D, and we'll
00:17 start things off with the simplest of the effects, which is Rotate.
00:23 What this command allows you to do is rotate a 2D object in 3D space.
00:28 I'll go ahead and turn on the Preview check box, so you can see what I'm
00:31 talking about here. And also drag the bottom of this box here
00:35 upward, so that you can see that as you drag one of the edges of the cube, you'll
00:39 see a wire frame preview there inside the Document window.
00:46 Now, I want you to notice a couple of things that are going on here.
00:49 First of all, this is a dynamic effect, which is why the path outline remains in
00:52 its original position and just the appearance of the artwork changes.
00:57 Also notice that we have what's known as an isometric projection.
01:01 That is, there's no perspective in the scene.
01:04 So the parallel lines inside the original paths remain parallel inside the 3D projection.
01:11 If you want to add perspective then you go over to this option, right there,
01:14 click on the right pointing arrow head and crank up that perspective value, like so.
01:19 And you'l see that we now have some perspective in the scene.
01:23 Obviously to apply the effect you just go ahead and click OK.
01:26 And that wire frame will disappear in the background as well.
01:30 Now I want you to note that this is not a true 3D effect.
01:33 We are rotating the artwork in 3D space but it remains 2D artwork, as you can see here.
01:39 And that's because it has no depth. If you want to achieve a similar effect,
01:43 but you also want to add some depth, then you want to choose 3D Extrude and Bevel.
01:49 So, I'll start things off here by switching over to the Appearance panel,
01:52 and I'm going to turn off 3D Rotate. So that we can apply a new effect.
01:56 And then I'll go up to the Effect menu, choose 3D, and choose the first command,
02:00 Extrude and Bevel. If Illustrator asks you if you really
02:04 want to apply another instance of the 3D effect, go ahead and click on the Apply
02:07 New Effect button. And then, let's go ahead and lift this
02:11 edge upward again so we're achieving a similar effect.
02:15 I'll crank up the perspective value as well, and now when you turn on the
02:19 Preview check box, you can see that you've got those extruded sides
02:22 projecting into the third dimension. Now I'll go ahead and click OK in order
02:28 to accept that effect. Now, for 3D Revolve.
02:31 I'll go and switch back to my Layers panel, here, twirl open the only layer
02:34 inside the illustration, and turn off that Compound Path in the background.
02:39 Then turn on this group right here, and click on it to select it with the Black
02:42 Arrow tool. So what I've done here is I've drawn half
02:46 a circle, crossed it with a bunch of rectangles, and then the used the Divide
02:50 operation inside the Path Finder panel to break things apart.
02:55 So this is not a clipping group by the way, these are static shapes.
03:00 You can apply a 3D command to a clipping group.
03:02 But if you do that it's pretty punishing. It requires a lot of computation, and it
03:06 takes forever. So you're better off working with static
03:09 path outlines. Now, what 3D Rotate does is it creates a
03:13 3D object by rotating whatever you select around an axis.
03:18 So what we're going to do is take this half circle and turn it into a sphere.
03:22 So, if you're working along with me select that shape, go up to the Effect
03:25 menu, choose 3D, and then choose Revolve. And turn on the Preview checkbox in order
03:32 to revolve the shape around so we get the striped sphere.
03:36 And then I'm going to drag this top edge of the cube downward, and you can see
03:39 that we get this wire frame preview of this kind of globe that we're creating.
03:45 Right about here is going to look pretty good.
03:47 I'll go ahead and release, and we end up with this really good looking effect.
03:52 Now I'll go ahead and click OK in order to accept that change.
03:56 And obviously, because all these effects are dynamic, you can make any
03:59 modifications you like, and Illustrator will update the effect on the fly.
04:04 So let's say I press Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y on a Mac, to switch to the Outline mode.
04:09 And I'll go ahead and press the A key to switch to the White Arrow tool.
04:12 And I'll Alt-click or Option-click on this top sliver, which is one of the
04:15 black shapes. And then, I'll go over here to the far
04:18 right side of the control panel, and make sure that All is selected from the Select
04:22 Similar Objects list, and then I'll click on its icon, in order to select all those
04:26 black lines. Now let's press Ctrl+Y or Cmd+Y on a Mac.
04:32 Switch back to the Preview mode and I'll change the fill from black over here on
04:35 the left side of the control panel, to this dark red right there.
04:40 And I end up with this effect and in this case it's lickity-split.
04:45 So there you have it, the three varieties of 3D inside of Illustrator.
04:50 You've got 3D Revolve. You've got 3D Rotate to spin a 2D object
04:54 in 3D space. If you want to give it edges you've got
04:58 3D Extrude and Bevel. And if you want to create symmetrical
05:02 forms like a sphere, then you have 3D Revolve.
05:06
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Working in 3D space: Pitch, yaw, and roll
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to rotate an object in 3D space, so you
00:03 really know what's going on. I'm going to start off by switching over
00:07 to the Layers panel, I'll twirl open the layer, then I'll turn off that sphere and
00:11 turn on that compound path there. And then I'll go ahead and generally
00:15 marquee it with the Black Arrow tool, because I don't know really where it is
00:18 inside of the document. And now let's go ahead and modify the 3D
00:22 settings inside the Appearance panel. But before you click on the effect, you
00:26 may want to press Ctrl+H, or Cmd+H on a Mac, to hide the selection edges, so you
00:29 can better see what you're doing. Then click 3D Extrude and Bevel, in order
00:35 to bring up the dialog box, and turn on the Preview checkbox, which always comes
00:39 up off by default, by the way. In order to save Illustrator some
00:44 processing time. And notice these three values right here.
00:48 They're generally known as the X, Y, and Z values.
00:51 That's actually misleading. Notice what happens when I drag this
00:55 little line that's associated with the so-called X value, and if I go ahead and
00:59 release there, you can see, that rather than apply an X axis rotation.
01:05 I'm rotating the object around the x-axis, which means that I'm rotating the
01:09 object up and down which is a y rotation, as well as forward and backward which is
01:13 a z rotation, which is why I prefer to think of these values in terms of
01:16 airplane terms. So for example this x value which is
01:23 related to all the red edges incidently. If I drag one of the red edges, then I'm
01:29 modifying what's known as the pitch. That is in this case I'm raising the nose
01:34 of the plane upward, and I'm sending the tail down, or if I drag forward I'm
01:37 sending the nose down and the tail up. This z value right here, corresponds with
01:44 the blue edges. And this is what's known in the flight
01:47 world as roll. So if I drag down, for example, I'm
01:50 rolling the object down into the left or I could lift up here in order to rotate
01:54 it down and to the right like so. So, I'm rolling the object back and forth
02:01 with respect to the center of the object going forward.
02:06 And then finally, this middle value here, the so called y value.
02:11 Is related to the green edges and it's what's known as the yaw.
02:15 So I'm spinning the object around the y-axis.
02:18 And in this case, we'd be theoretically turning to the left or if I were to drag
02:22 it this way. We'd be turning to the right.
02:26 Once again if this were an airplane, as oppose to a symbol.
02:30 Now, you can also enter numerical values if you want to, and I came up with these.
02:34 I'm going to change the pitch value to 5 degrees, and then I'll take the yaw value
02:38 down to negative 25 degrees, and finally I'll change the roll value to 10 degrees
02:41 in order to create this effect here. And I'm also going to take the
02:47 perspective value up to 140 degrees. Now we'll click OK, in order to apply the
02:52 modified effect. And for some reason Illustrator has seen
02:56 fit to leave the wire frame up on screen. So I'll just press Ctrl+Y, or Cmd+Y on a
03:00 Mac, a couple of times to make it go away.
03:03 Now notice a couple of somewhat negative things that have happened to this symbol.
03:08 First of all it shifted from being exactly centered on the art board, to
03:11 leaning over here to the left. And when that happens as it inevitably
03:16 does, you're going to want to move the object to a different location.
03:19 But rather than physically moving it, I recommend, that you apply a dynamic effect.
03:25 By going up to the Effect menu, choosing Distort and Transform, and then choosing
03:28 the Transform command. Or if you load a D key, so if you've got
03:31 a Ctrl+E, or Cmd+E on the Mac. And the values that seem to work here are
03:36 a horizontal move value of 30 points. And a vertical move value of negative 24 points.
03:42 And we end up achieving this effect right there.
03:44 And the reason I recommend that you work dynamically, instead of actually moving
03:47 the object to a different location. As this makes it a little easier to find.
03:53 Because after all that object, the real path outline, is centered, inside the art board.
03:59 Also later on down the line, if you make changes to your 3D settings you can
04:02 compensate for those changes here inside the Transform Effect dialog box.
04:08 Now I'll click OK. Now, the other thing that you'll notice
04:11 as you work with 3D inside Illustrator, is that objects cannot interact with each other.
04:17 So one 3D object has no notion that another one exists.
04:21 So you can't really set up scenes, or cast shadows, or any of that stuff.
04:25 The nearest thing that you can do if you want this object to cast a shadow in the
04:29 art board is to apply a drop shadow effect, by going up to the Effect menu,
04:32 choosing Stylize and then choosing Drop Shadow.
04:37 And these are the values I came up with. mode multiply.
04:40 Opacity 75%. X offset negative 7.
04:43 Y offset 4 points, and then a blur of 3 points.
04:47 Of course you can totally go your own way.
04:49 The color is black, I'll turn on the Preview check box, and you can see we end
04:52 up with this effect here. And now I'll click OK, in order to accept
04:56 that change. So there you have it.
05:00 That's how you rotate an object in 3D space inside of Illustrator.
05:04 So far, our effect looks a little bland. But I assure you, in the following
05:08 movies, we're going to light things up to create this effect here.
05:12
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Lighting and shading a 3D object
00:00 In this movie I'll show you how to light a 3D object.
00:03 To achieve an effect more like this one here.
00:05 I'll go ahead and switch to the document in progress here.
00:08 And marque the object to select it. It is selected now, it's just that I
00:11 pressed Ctrl+H or Cmd+H on Mac to hide the selection edges.
00:15 But I'll do it again just so you can see, sure enough there they are.
00:18 Anyway, I am going to hide them again, by pressing Crtl or Cmd+H.
00:21 Then I'll click on 3D Extrude and Bevel, here inside the Appearance panel, in
00:25 order to bring up the dialog box. You want to be able to see what you're
00:29 doing, you'll have to turn on the preview check box.
00:31 And now, in order to access the lighting options, I'll click on the More Options
00:35 button in order to open up an otherwise missing half of the dialog box.
00:41 Now notice this little sphere, it represents the object, and then this dot
00:44 here represents a light source. So I'm going to move this guy down a
00:48 little bit, and then I'm going to create a new light, by clicking on the page, and
00:51 I'll take this guy, more or less, to this position here, let's say.
00:57 Now I want to add a third light so I'll click on the page icon once again.
01:00 Put this guy right about there, and now I want to send that light to the back of
01:04 the object. And you do that by clicking on this left
01:07 hand icon. And that'll add a little bit of highlight
01:11 to these lower extruded edges. Now notice the first value is Light
01:14 Intensity, and that's cranked up to as high as it goes to 100%.
01:18 But obviously I could take it down. If I want to reduce the intensity of
01:21 light, I could take it down to something like 50%.
01:24 What I want you to notice about this is this is the one option that effects each
01:28 light source independently. So notice these two are still set to
01:32 100%, while this guy's down at 50%. I'm going to take him back up to 100, however.
01:37 Ambient light is the amount of general light in a room.
01:42 So, think of sunlight for example. We don't want any ambient light in this scene.
01:47 And so if you crank up the Ambient Light value, you're going to end up with a much
01:50 flatter effect as you see here. If you want more depth and detail, you
01:54 want to take that value down. So that most of your light is being
01:58 conveyed by the actual light sources. And in my case, I'm going to take that
02:02 guy all the way down to zero. Next you have Highlight Intensity, which
02:06 is how intense the highlights are, if you don't want very intense highlights you
02:10 can take this value down. If you want to ratchet things up a bit,
02:14 you can take that value up all the way to 100%, it's not really affecting this
02:18 artwork all that much. Although, it will in the next movie.
02:22 And it, now I'm going to take the Highlight Size value all the way up to
02:25 100% as well, in order to spread those highlights just a little bit.
02:31 Now this final option controls banding. And so, what Illustrator's actually doing
02:35 is creating these blending gradient steps right here.
02:39 And you can really see them if I were to take this value down to, say, five.
02:43 You can see that stair-stepping like crazy.
02:45 And what you want to do, is you want to take this value up.
02:48 I'm going to press Shift-Up Arrow, a few times here, until the banding goes away.
02:53 So you want that value to be as low as it possibly can be, because after all,
02:55 otherwise you're going to slow things down pretty significantly.
03:00 But you don't want to see any stair-stepping either.
03:02 Most likely you want that Shading Color to be set to Black but you can choose a
03:06 custom color as well if you like. And then click on that color swatch to
03:10 modify it. I'm going to go ahead and cancel out of
03:13 there and switch this guy back to black. Finally I want you to notice that there
03:17 are different surface settings. So, you can choose Wire Frame if you want to.
03:22 Which is going to get rid of all those lighting options, by the way, and you're
03:24 just going to create a wire frame object right here in the background.
03:28 Or you can choose no shading. I don't know of too many situations where
03:32 you'd want that, because you're just going to get this flat object.
03:36 You have diffused shading, which is a simpler form of shading that doesn't
03:40 include any highlights. So you get shadows inside of the object,
03:44 but you don't get any colors that are lighter than the original color that's
03:48 assigned to the fill, or stroke, or what have you.
03:52 If you want everything, if you want both shadows and highlights, then you want to
03:55 go with plastic shading as we have here. And then when you're done you can go
04:01 ahead and click on the OK button in order to accept your changes, and that's how
04:05 you affect the lighting and shading settings when creating 3D objects, here
04:09 inside Illustrator.
04:13
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Beveling the edges of a 3D extrusion
00:00 In this movie, we're going to bevel the edges of our 3D extrusion.
00:04 In order covert it to a somewhat stayed version of the artwork, to this more
00:07 dramatic composition here. I'll go ahead and switch back to my
00:11 artwork in prgoress. And I'll generally marque the object like
00:14 so, again, my edges are hidden, which I accomplished by pressing Ctrl+H or Cmd+H
00:19 on the Mac. Now, click on 3D Extrude & Bevel, there
00:23 inside the Appearance panel, and I'll turn on the Preview check box so I can
00:26 see what I'm doing. And I want you to note this section right
00:30 here, Extrude and Bevel. It starts with the extrusion depth.
00:35 So, if I take that value up to 100 points, for example, then I increase the
00:38 depth of the extruded sides. And you can go pretty nuts with this
00:43 value, it goes very high indeed. We obviously don't want it to be that
00:47 high, so I'll go ahead and take it down to, let's say, for the sake of
00:50 demonstration, 200 points. And then I want you to see what's going
00:54 on with Bevel. If I go ahead from None to Classic for
00:57 example, you can see, just barely, the shape of that Bevel.
01:02 So, it just has an angled edge, flat top, and another angled edge coming down.
01:06 I'll go ahead and apply Classic, and notice it's bending inwards, as we can
01:10 see there. These contours become increasingly
01:14 complex, all the way up to Jaggy, for example, which gives us a bunch of
01:17 reticulated edges. Like those associated with an accordion.
01:22 I'm going to switch over to complex one. Because even though I'm not really a fan
01:26 of this contour, it helps demonstrate what's going on.
01:29 And I'll also increase the height value to 10, let's say.
01:34 And as opposed to having the beveled edges go inward, which is almost never
01:38 what you want, send the beveled edges outward instead in order to produce this
01:42 effect here. And that way, the original symbol is not
01:47 being sort of trodden on. Now, notice these edges down here.
01:52 This is the beveled edge, and notice that it moves around as you change the
01:56 extrusion depth. So, if I wanted to reduce the depth of
02:01 these sides, then I take the extrude depth value down.
02:05 And that would go ahead and step down what I think of as the height of the
02:09 bevel effect, how far it comes out at us. This height value right here controls
02:14 something altogether different. This height value right here really
02:18 controls the width of the bevel. So, if I set it to 20 points for example,
02:22 you can see that that makes the beveled edges wider.
02:26 The reason it's called height is because it's oriented along the y-axis.
02:31 But thinking of it as width value to me makes more sense.
02:35 Notice also this cap option. If you want to get rid of the interior of
02:39 your 3D object, you can turn the cap off by clicking on the second icon right there.
02:44 And then, you'll just see through those extruded edges.
02:47 In other words, the extrusion is now all we have.
02:50 Generally speaking, you're going to want to leave that cam turned on but that is
02:53 an option. And now I'm going to switch the bevel to
02:56 classic, for this specific effect here. I'm going to take the height value down
03:01 to 10 points, and I'm also going to take the extrusion depth down to 50 points
03:04 like so. Now, we need to adjust the lighting a
03:08 little bit. I'm going to take the highlight science
03:11 value to its default, which is 90%. And I'm also going to drag this guy
03:15 farther out. And I'm going to drag this one farther
03:18 outward as well. And then, I'm going to grab this guy and
03:21 drag him down just a little bit, and move him to the front by clicking on this
03:24 left-hand icon. So that we get some more dramatic highlights.
03:30 I might take this guy up a little bit. I'm looking for some really start
03:33 highlights up there in the top left for example, and along some of the interior
03:37 edges as well. And now, you can see what a big
03:40 difference there is between plastic shading and diffuse shading.
03:44 If I went with diffuse, I won't have any of those highlights as you can see here
03:48 and of course no shading would. Give us no shading as well as no highlights.
03:54 Anyway, that's why I'm going to stick with plastic shading in order to create
03:57 this final version of the effect. And I'm also going to take this forward
04:02 light here and reduce it's intensity to 50%, like so.
04:06 So that we can retain some dramatic shadows.
04:08 And then, I'll click OK in order to accept my changes.
04:13 And that's how you apple a beveled contour to a 3D object, as well as
04:17 control the size and shape of that bevel, here inside Illustrator.
04:23
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Creating live, editable 3D type
00:00 In this movie, we'll switch from 3D symbols to one of the most obvious
00:03 reasons for 3D inside of Illustrator, which is 3D extruded type.
00:09 I also want you to see how the extrusion is a different color than the interior of
00:12 the letters, and that's a function of working with strokes.
00:17 So I'll go ahead and switch over to the starter document here and click on this
00:20 live editable text to select it. And then I'll go up to the Effect menu,
00:25 choose 3D, and choose Extrude and Bevel. And I'm just going to enter a few values
00:30 that I've come up within advance, which are 20 degrees for the Pitch value, the
00:33 first one. And then zero each for the Yaw and Roll values.
00:37 I'm going to take the Perspective up to 100 degrees, and take the Extrude Depth
00:41 value down to 40 points. We now want a bevel for the text, but we
00:45 do want to adjust some lighting settings here.
00:47 I'm going to take the Ambient Light value down to zero, leave the Highlight
00:52 Intensity at 60%, and a Highlight Size of 90% and blend steps of 25 are fine as well.
00:58 So everything is set to its default besides Ambient Light.
01:01 And now I'll go ahead and drag this guy up to the top.
01:05 That is the light source. And I'll create another light source
01:08 right about there, that I'm going to take down and to the left as you can see.
01:12 And then I'm going to send it in back of the object.
01:15 And now I'll turn on the Preview check box so you can see that effect.
01:19 And notice that I've actually lost some edges.
01:22 And this can happen to you inside of Illustrator.
01:26 And usually, the best solution is to just adjust one of these values ever so slightly.
01:32 So, for example, I'll click inside this Y Yaw value and I'll go ahead and press the
01:36 up arrow key in order to increase it to one degree and that goes ahead and brings
01:40 the e closer to us and sends the s farther away, but not to any degree that
01:44 I think's going to be obvious. And it brings back our beveled edges,
01:50 which we dearly need, of course. Now I'll go ahead and click OK in order
01:55 to apply that effect. Now I'm going to switch over to the
01:58 Appearance panel, and notice in addition to the yellow fill, we have some strokes.
02:02 And I'm going to turn each one of them on.
02:04 There's this four point white stroke, and then we've got a 12 point sort of pinkish
02:08 stroke, and a 16 point darker red stroke. And you can see that the strokes wrap the
02:14 letters and as a result we have a differently colored extrusion along with
02:18 the stroked yellow letters. Now I want to give the letters a little
02:23 bit of a bend, so I'll go up to the Effect menu, choose Warp, and then choose Arch.
02:29 And I'm looking for a bend value of 10% and that's it, just a horizontal bend.
02:34 Both of the Distortion values should be zero.
02:36 And now I'll go ahead and click OK. Apparently I've made quite the mistake here.
02:41 I went ahead and applied the warp to the stroke, as opposed to the overall object.
02:45 Which is no problem, actually, cuzI can just go ahead and grab that Warp Arch
02:49 effect and drag it down to below 3D Extrude and Bevel, so that you're
02:52 applying the 3D extrusion first, and then applying the warp to it.
02:59 All right, now I'm going to zoom in on my artwork a little bit.
03:02 And notice that little bit of pink edge along the hyphen.
03:05 And I also have this weird little bit of extrusion that's showing up right there
03:09 in the lower right corner. And that kind of stuff can happen when a
03:14 stroke gets a little bit too thin. And so notice if I were to take the
03:18 stroke down to let's say 15 points, for example.
03:23 It originally started at 16. Then we're going to end up fixing the
03:26 lower right corner right there. That doesn't take care of this area.
03:30 But it also introduces some new problem. Notice that we have a little bit of an
03:34 issue down left on the p here. And then we've got a revealed edge on the e.
03:39 And if I were to change Adjoin by clicking on the word Stroke there, and
03:42 let's say I make it a bevel joint. Then I'm really going to do a number on this.
03:47 I'm going to actually cut the stroke of this location.
03:49 So, the reason I'm making it big deal about this is because it happens a lot.
03:53 You see this kind of stuff all the time inside of Illustrator and it is the
03:57 result of one stroke with the fill or what have you poking through another one.
04:03 So I'll go ahead and switch the corner back to a round joint.
04:05 And I'll take the weight value up to 17 points, which is one higher than when we started.
04:11 Notice that goes in and takes care of the problem where the e is concerned, as well
04:13 as the p. Let's go back to the hyphen here and that
04:16 problem is corrected as well. And that friends, is at least one way to
04:21 create live, editable 3D type, complete with custom colored extruded sides, here
04:26 inside Illustrator.
04:30
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Adding cast shadows to 3D type
00:00 In this movie I'll show how to take a 3-D object and give it a reasonably credible
00:04 cast shadow that does not employ the Drop Shadow effect and let me show you why.
00:10 I'll go ahead and switch back to my document in progress here and I'll click
00:13 on the text to select it. And so you might figure to create the
00:17 shadow you go up to the Effect menu, choose Stylize and choose Drop Shadow.
00:22 And then, dial in whatever settings you're looking for.
00:24 In my case, I crank to opacity value up to 100%, the color is black, the mode is
00:28 multiply, the X-offset value is zero points, the Y-offset value is 14 points,
00:32 and the blur is eight points. And now I'll turn in a preview checkbox
00:37 to create that shadow. So you might ask well what's wrong with that?
00:41 It looks halfway decent. Well the light, bear in mind, is being
00:44 shined onto the type, really actually from about here down.
00:49 And what that would mean is that the shadow gets smaller behind the letters.
00:54 It actually recedes away from the S and the E as opposed to being just sort of
00:58 moved down 14 points which is what we have right now.
01:03 So, it's the kind of thing that might look good to you on first viewing but
01:06 over time it's just going to look wrong. So here's what I recommend you do instead.
01:12 Let's go ahead and turn off the eyeball for the drop shadow effect, because
01:15 obviously we don't want it. And I'm going to create a copy of this
01:19 3-D type by pressing Ctrl+C or Cmd+C on the Mac.
01:24 And now what we want to do is get rid of some of this stuff because what we've got
01:27 here is going to turn into the shadow. And so I'll go ahead and grab 3-D Extrude
01:32 and Bevel and I'll drag it to the trash. We'll keep the warp but we don't need all
01:37 of these strokes, so I'll go ahead and get rid of the 17 point stroke as well as
01:40 the four point stroke and I'm just going to drag the drop shadow to the
01:43 trash as well. And now let's go ahead and change the
01:48 fill color to black. Just a weak black is fine.
01:51 And we'll change the stroke color to black as well.
01:54 And the whole reason the stroke is there, by the way, is to make the shadow bulkier.
01:58 And let's change the blend mode, assigned to the entire object, by clicking on the
02:01 word Opacity down at the bottom here. And changing the mode to multiply, and
02:05 that will give us a nice, hefty dark shadow.
02:08 Problem, of course, is that it's not currently soft, it's sharp.
02:11 So you want to go up to the Effect menu, choose Blur, and choose Gaussian Blur.
02:16 And we'll take that radius value up to the same value we use for blur inside the
02:20 drop shadow, which is eight pixels, and I'll go ahead and click OK in order to
02:24 apply that effect. Now press Ctrl+F or Cmd+F on a Mac, in
02:30 order to paste back in the 3-D type there.
02:35 And it may take a moment because there's a lot going on.
02:37 And you can see that, for all intents and purposes it's completely covering up its
02:40 shadow, which is why I want you to switch back to the layers panel.
02:45 Twirl open this 3-D object layer, and go ahead and meatball the rearmost of the
02:49 two text layers. And this is still live editable text, by
02:53 the way. And now, you want to go up to the Effect
02:56 menu, choose Distort and Transform, and choose the Transform command, or, if you
03:00 loaded D keys press Ctrl+E or Cmd+E on the Mac.
03:04 And I'm going to go ahead and knock the shadow down 20 points this time around,
03:07 and I'll turn on the preview checkbox, and you can see it's no better than it
03:10 was before. We still have the shadow drifting away
03:14 from the E and the S in unnatural directions, which is why you need to take
03:18 the horizontal value right there, and reduce it to 90% in order to produce this
03:22 effect here. You don't have to go with exactly with
03:27 90, of course, I might decide it wants to be a little bigger than that, how about 92?
03:32 And then, I'll click OK in order to finish off that effect.
03:36 And I'll press Ctrl+Shift+A, or Cmd+Shift+A as well, in order to deselect
03:39 the text. And so the thing to keep in mind is when
03:42 you're working with 3-D objects inside Illustrator, you're not going to be able
03:45 to get the various objects to interact with each other.
03:48 So you're going to have to fake the shadows.
03:50 And oftentimes, you're better off foregoing the Drop Shadow effect and
03:54 creating a custom Gaussian Blur Shadow instead.
03:58
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Assigning and editing a 3D Revolve effect
00:00 In this movie, we'll explore a few more things you might want to know about the
00:03 3D Revolve Effect. And over the course of this movie and the
00:07 next one, we'll convert these two circles and this three, into this 3D three ball.
00:12 Go ahead and switch over to the starter graphic here, and I'm going to turn off
00:15 these two objects here inside the Layers panel, so that just the red circle is
00:19 available to me. And then I'll press the A key to switch
00:23 to the white arrow tool, and I'll go ahead and marquee this right hand point
00:26 here, and I'll press the Backspace key, or the Delete key on the Mac, to get rid
00:29 of it. Now what you want to do is zoom out a
00:33 click, just to give yourself a little more room here.
00:36 And then go up to the Effect menu, choose 3D, and choose Revolve.
00:40 And if you start things off by turning on thePpreview checkbox, you'll see that
00:44 things are revolving in a wrong direction.
00:46 In other words, Illustrator is revolving around this left-hand edge, and thereby
00:51 creating a cylinder. And so what you want to do is change the
00:55 Offset option here, from Left Edge to Right Edge.
00:59 And you'll end up getting the effect you're looking for.
01:02 Also notice that you have this Offset option right here, this value, and you
01:05 can increase that value in order to create a hole in the center of this
01:09 circle, like so. And you can take that value up pretty
01:13 darn high, as you can see right here. And so you can get these kind of doughnut
01:17 effects, and so forth. I'm going to crank it all the way down to
01:20 its minimum, however, which is 0 points. It doesn't go any lower than that.
01:25 Also notice that we have this Angle option.
01:28 So, if you were to increase the angle to, let's say, 270 degrees, and press the tab
01:32 key, you can see that now you're only revolving 270 degrees around the circle.
01:39 Which means, if I go ahead and rotate this guy around by grabbing a green edge
01:43 and dragging it, we can now see into the circle, like so.
01:47 I'll go ahead and drag this guy up as well so that we end up with a different
01:51 view of things. So if I had a Stroke combined with a
01:55 Fill, then on the interior here I'd see the Fill color and on the exterior of the
01:58 circle, I would see the Stroke color. Obviously, that's not even sort of what
02:04 we want so, I'll go ahead and reset the Angle value to 360 degrees.
02:08 And now I'm going to modify the Light settings a little bit here.
02:11 I'm going to leave the Intensity value set to 100%.
02:14 I'll take the ambient line down to 15%, and I'll change the Highlight Intensity
02:19 to a 100 percent. Take that Highlight size value down to
02:24 66%, and we'll deal with the steps later. But first of all, I'm going to go and
02:28 click OK to establish the Space effect, and then I'm going to zoom in so I can
02:32 see my illustration a little more closely.
02:35 And I'll switch over to the Appearance panel.
02:37 And click 3D Revolve in order to bring that dialog box back up onscreen and
02:41 I'll turn on the Preview checkbox. And now what I want to do to simulate
02:45 pool hall lighting, is add some more lights.
02:48 So, I'm going to take this guy, and I'm going to drag him up to the top and over
02:52 to the left, just a little bit. And then I'll add another light, and I'll
02:57 go ahead and take it over to, right about there, perhaps.
03:01 And add another one and take it over to this side and maybe a little more down
03:04 and to the left as well. And then, I'm going to create two more
03:09 light sources, but these will be behind the ball.
03:12 So I'll go ahead and drag this guy up to about here, and click on this Move To
03:15 Back icon. And then I'll create another one, upright
03:19 this time around. And I'll send it to the back of the stack
03:22 as well, in order to produce an effect that looks, you know, more or less like this.
03:27 I might take my lights a little farther apart from each other and play around
03:30 with the positions a little bit more. But the main thing that we're running
03:35 into, if it's not implicitly obvious, is a lot of banding.
03:39 We just have banding like crazy throughout this ball.
03:42 And the only way to address that is to take the Blend Steps all the way up to
03:47 the absolute maximum, which is 256. And we end up with this much more
03:52 pleasing lighting effect that you see here.
03:56 I'm also going to take my Perspective value, by the way, up to 100 degrees in
03:59 order to push the size of the ball, and that makes all the lighting drop down to
04:02 the bottom. So, in other words, the ball has to be
04:07 upright in order for this lighting configuration to work, and right now,
04:10 it's kind of upside down on its head. So let's modify a few settings.
04:15 I'm going to take the X value to 110 degrees.
04:19 I'm going to take the Y value to 90 degrees.
04:23 And then let's go ahead and take the Z value to 110 degrees as well, like so.
04:29 And you might have seen things fall apart kind of in the middle there, but it ends
04:33 up stabilizing once we get the right values in place.
04:37 And again, as usual, I just figured out these values by trial and error.
04:43 All right, now I'll go ahead and click OK in order to create that lit ball that you
04:46 see here. So, those are a few more insights into
04:49 how you work with 3D Revolve inside Illustrator.
04:53 In the next movie, I'll show you how to map this three onto the sphere.
04:58
Collapse this transcript
Mapping artwork onto a 3D object
00:00 In this movie, I'll show you how to map this artwork, that is this whitish circle
00:04 and the black three, onto our red sphere. When I switch to my image in progress,
00:08 you can see the lighting is a little different between the two.
00:12 So you are going to get different effects as you work with these filters.
00:14 I'm going to switch back to the layers panel and twirl open this ball layer.
00:18 And I'll go ahead and turn on this path as well as this three, which is a number
00:22 that's been converted to a path outline. Merely because I set it in Helvetica
00:27 Rounded, and I wasn't sure if you'd have access to that font.
00:30 I'll go ahead and press the V key to switch to the black arrow tool, and I'll
00:34 click on this whitish circle, and notice that its not white.
00:38 The red, green, and blue values are all 204.
00:41 And by darkening the color up ever so slightly, and keeping it neutral as well,
00:45 we give the 3D effect some room to create highlights.
00:49 I'll go ahead and select that light circle and the three, and I'll press
00:52 Ctrl+C, or Cmd+C on a Mac, in order to copy them.
00:55 And then I'll turn off the originals just to protect them, and I'll press Ctrl+F,
00:59 or Cmd+F on a Mac, in order to paste them in front.
01:03 And then, you want to go to the Window menu, and choose Symbols to bring up the
01:06 symbol panel. Because anytime you map artwork onto a 3D
01:10 object, that artwork has to be expressed in the form of a symbol.
01:14 Go ahead and click on the little page icon, in order to bring up the symbol
01:17 options dialog box. And call this something like three ball,
01:21 and click Okay. Now you can go ahead and turn off that
01:24 symbol, because we don't need to see it on screen anymore.
01:28 Hide the Symbols panel, and marquee the left edge of this sphere, in order to
01:32 select that half a circle. Then switch over to the Appearance panel,
01:37 and click on 3D Revolve, in order to bring up the 3D Revolve Options dialog box.
01:42 And now you want to click on this button way down here at the bottom, Map Art.
01:46 And that will bring up the Map Art dialog box.
01:49 Now different 3D objects contain different numbers of surfaces.
01:53 If this were a 3D extrusion, you might see lots and lots of surfaces, because
01:57 every extruded side amounts to a different surface as well as the faces.
02:02 But in a case of a sphere, we have just one surface, which makes it easy to identify.
02:08 But as you click through these here, to advance from one surface to another, if
02:12 there were more than one, then you can tell which surface you're looking at, not
02:15 so much by his grid here, but rather by which part of the artwork turns red
02:18 inside the Document window. Once you've identified the surface you
02:25 want to work with, go ahead and set the symbol option to that symbol you just
02:27 created, in our case three ball. And turn on the Preview check box, and
02:31 that'll allow you to preview the entire effect, even though the Preview check box
02:35 is off out in the larger 3D Revolve options dialog box.
02:41 Now you can see that the three comes in totally centered.
02:44 And we're in luck, because I had designed these values up front, these 3D rotation
02:48 values, so we had a fighting chance of getting things right.
02:52 But it's still not quite in the right location, so you're going to have to drag
02:55 it a little bit over to the left, like so, if you want to center the three
02:58 inside the artwork. Notice that you can also scale the art if
03:04 you want to, by dragging one of the handles.
03:07 And if you move your cursor outside of the art, you can rotate it as well.
03:11 I'm not doing any of those things, because I don't wannna mess up my artwork.
03:14 Everything's looking good here. What I do want to do is turn on Shade
03:17 Artwork, so that we're shading the symbol, which makes it a more organic
03:20 piece of the 3D object. Now, I'll go ahead and click Okay, in
03:25 order to map that artwork. And I'll click Okay once again, in order
03:30 to exit the 3D dialog box. All right, and I'll go ahead and click off
03:34 the art to deselect it. And that, friends, is how you map artwork
03:38 onto a 3D object using symbols here inside Illustrator.
03:44
Collapse this transcript
Conclusion
See ya
00:01 Whew! We are done.
00:02 And I gotta tell you, if you've been with me for all forty chapters in this series,
00:07 I congratulate you. Good job.
00:11 And might I suggest that you get in the habit now, if you haven't already, of
00:14 watching Deke's Techniques. Because it, it's really my opportunity to
00:18 show you cool stuff and be able to make the assumption that you already know how
00:22 to use the programs. So we can burn through things.
00:26 We move more quickly sometimes we do an entire project in a single movie.
00:30 And it's really a lot of fun as well. So just a thought just, you know I've
00:36 said my peace. By golly.
00:39 In any event, thank you so much for spending your time with me.
00:43 And though it pains me to say it, for the last time, this time, on behalf of
00:49 lynda.com, see you.
00:52
Collapse this transcript


Suggested courses to watch next:

Deke's Techniques (9h 57m)
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Illustrator for Web Design (5h 27m)
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