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In this movie, I'll show you how to reduced the effects of real world camera shake, which frequently happens when you're capturing handheld, shots under low light. So, for example, in the case of this board game, right here, I was using a state of the art camera. A Canon 5T. However, as a result essentially of operation error, I ended up with a long exposure, so, there's a little movement evident inside of the image, especially in this little space right there, fly anywhere.
And the camera shake becomes even more evident, as we scroll up inside of the image, because as you may recall from the previous movie, if you watched it. This top portion of the image, is outside the depth of field. And we're going to be solving this problem, incidentally, using a filter that's been recently added to Photoshop. It's under the Filter menu. You go to the Sharpen sub-menu. And it's this guy right there, Shake Reduction. So, first thing I'm going to do, is just go ahead and press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on the Mac, in order to center my zoom.
Now, if nothing else, the shake reduction filter takes a little bit of getting used to. So, it's always a good idea to keep things nice and flexible by applying it as an editable smart filter, which means converting the image in advance, to a smart object. So, we're already working with an independent floating layer. Which means all I need to do is right-click inside the image with the rectangular marquee tool. And then choose Convert to Smart Object, like so. And now we have a smart object as is indicated by this little page icon, in the bottom right corner, of the thumbnail, here inside the Layers panel.
Now, just as a trick, just sort of an aside here, let's say you want to rename this layer, but you don't want to lose track of the original image data right here. So in other words, we can see this _DM39922. That was the image number that was assigned by the digital camera, and that's always a good thing to keep in mind for later, in case you need to go back to that image for whatever reason. But, what I'm going to do, just for the sake of demonstration, I'm going to replace the layer name, by double-clicking on it, and then I'll just enter Board Game, and press the Enter key, or the Return key on the Mac.
So, in other words, now. My original image data information is gone. Well, that's not actually true. If you double-click on the thumbnail, for this smart object layer, and then if you see an alert message, it's just telling you how smart objects work. Click the OK button, and now notice, up here in the Title tab, the original name of that image, so I can see that it's DM39922. So, in other words. That original file name is captured inside of the smart object, as long as you rename your layer after, you convert it to a smart object.
I'm going to go ahead and close this image. Now, let's go about applying shake reduction, by going up to the Filter menu. And choosing Sharpen, and then you choose the very first command there, Shake Reduction, and that will bring up this massive dialogue box right here, and if you want to get any real work done with this filter, then, instead of wasting energy on these values, up towards the top of the dialogue box, you want to twirl open this advanced region. So, by default it will be closed, like that, just go ahead and click on the triangle to open it on up.
And that will show you this little region. That the filter has gone ahead and highlighted by default. Which most likely, if you're working on a different image, is going to be located toward the central region of the photograph. Anyway, I'm going to go ahead and zoom on in by, selecting 100% from this list. In the bottom left corner. Then, I'm going to scroll down to what I consider to be that more representative region, which is the South. You may recall that from the previous movie, and I'm going to draw a new rectangle around it.
So, by default, this tool, the Blur Estimation Tool is selected, in the upper left corner of the window. And then what you want to do is just drag around this region like so, in order to add it as a blur estimation region, here inside this little advanced sub panel. So you've going to have advanced twirled open, in order to make this work. And now I'm going to zoom in a little more. So that you can see that we have these kind of edge artifacts going on. So if you want to get a sense of a before and after, you can turn off the Preview check box.
So this would be the original version of the image, and it may take a moment to reconcile there. And then if you turn the Preview check box back on, you can see this is the after version, and it's got quite a bit of haloing. If you want to get rid of some of that haloing, then you want to go to this Artifacts Suppression option here, and you want to crank it up. And I'm going to take it up to 50%, and then press the Tab key, which is going to invoke a progress bar, you can see this little mini progress bar in a lower left region of the image window.
So it does take a moment or two, in order to get the effect that we're looking for. So we do have to wait it out. But at some point you will see it come. Into view on screen, even, possibly before the progress bar is done. So you can see that now we have done a fair job of suppressing some of those artifacts. In other words, the halos, as well as the choppy edges. So, if I were to turn off the Artifact Suppression check box here, and you can see that we've got quite a bit of choppiness going on. A lot of noise.
As well, and then of course we've got these halos. And then if I turn Artifact Suppression back on, and go ahead and wait a moment, for things to update on screen, then, you can see that things are now much smoother. All right, I'm going to go ahead and zoom out a little bit, so that I can scroll upward, and I'm doing this by space bar dragging, incidentally, and we do have our original Blur Estimation region. I can click on it, in order to highlight it, and then zoom out so that I can see. This area is automatically selected in advanced.
Which is just fine by me. I'm going to leave it alone. And then I'll scroll up to this region now. We've got some major problems at work here, because of the shallow depth of field. So, these cards are plainly out of focus, which is why I'm going to go ahead marquee them, just by zooming out a little more. And then I'll just go ahead and drag an area around this. And what's great about this filter. It's very frustrating I think for a lot of folks because, again, you get lost in these values. You try to modify them. You have to wait forever for a preview, and so forth.
But, if you kind of just ignore the values, and instead focus on the advanced region and drawing. These little so called blur estimation regions, with this marquee tool here. Then what happens, is the filter goes ahead and automatically says all right, I'll go ahead and deal with this area, and then I'll also automatically deal with this area here, and I'll automatically deal with this area, as well. And then it just kind of splits the difference. Throughout the rest of the image. So it's pretty smart. All right, I'm going to go ahead and scroll back up here and I'll click on this guy.
This third little blur estimation region, and I'll zoom in, and again, I think it'd be a good idea to crank up that Artifact Suppression number. So I'm going to take that up to 50% and press the Tab key, in order to apply that change. And you can see that even though the progress bar is still running down here. The shake reduction filter starts its work at the top of the image, and works its way down. So you're going to see the previews faster at the top, than you are at the bottom. Anyway, that looks pretty good, so I'll go ahead and click OK. Notice, I didn't adjust any of these other options.
I'm just letting the filter to its thing automatically. So, I'll go ahead and click OK, in order to apply that change. And now, let's go ahead, and zoom on in here. To the South, for example. And I can turn off the filter, right down here, inside the Layers panel. So, I'll turn off the Smart Filters in order to see the before version of the image. And then I'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac, to see the after version. So, things are looking pretty darn good. This is a reasonable modification to the image. In my opinion, but, if we get up to this region here, recall that this portion of the image right here, is covered by that first automatic blur estimation region.
And, as a result, it's kind of choppy. I didn't make any modifications to those settings for that one. Little region there, and so we have some pretty choppy transitions going on, which is why, we need to modify the settings ever so slightly, and you can do that, because we're working with the smart filter, just double-click on the words Shake Reduction, they're inside the Layers panel. Go ahead and select this first little sort of thumbnail, in the Advanced region. Zoom on in, just so we can make sure that we're doing a good job here. And I Ctrl space bar, or Cmd space bar clicking.
We're not currently seeing the preview by the way. Now we are. It just came into view there. And so, what I want to do is just raise that Artifact Suppression option. You can see that the value varies, for each one of these blur estimation regions. So it's 50%. For the second tube, because that's the way I set it. But I missed the very first one. So I'll go ahead and click on it. And I'll change it to 50% as well. And press the Tab key. And we're going to get some much smoother transitions. And to really see how much smoother here, I'll go ahead and click OK.
Because it is after all, a fairly subtle change. And it might take a moment. You may see a progress bar on screen. And just to give you a sense of what we were able to most recently achieve, I'll press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z on the Mac, see how jagged that transition in particular is. And then if I press Ctrl+Z or Cmd+Z again, in order to reapply the change you, can see that things are much more smooth. All right, I'm going to zoom out just a little bit here, to 200%, and I'll go ahead and scroll down to the South, the most representative region of the United States, at least where this particular image is concerned.
And that my friends, is at least one possible way to remove real world camera shake, using the shake reduction filter, here, inside Photoshop.
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