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Hey gang, this is Deke Mcclelland, welcome to Deke's Techniques. Now this week I'm going to show you how to clean up a smart phone photo in Camera Raw. Now here's the back story, because it kind of matters. I was working on my Photoshop CC updates course, because Photoshop CC now supports printing to 3D printers. So, I have this bull that I created inside of Photoshop based on a model from fellow lynda.com author, Ryan Kittleson. And this guy named Daniel Presedo over at Adobe got hold of it.
And Adobe's got a few different 3D printers, including this Maker Bot Replicator 2 and so he was able to print. My 3D bull in 3D, like so, which was great. And then he offered to send a photograph, and he did. But he shot the photo using an iPhone. Now the thing about smartphones is the pictures look great in the phones, but they look terrible, when you bring them in to Photoshop. And, of course, I couldn't let that go. So, I went ahead and made that photo its very best in Camera Raw.
And you can do the same with your smartphone photos as well. Here, let me show you exactly how it works. All right, here's that 3D bull. Based on a model incidentally from fellow lynda.com author, Ryan Kittleson. And here's the artwork as it appears when printed in 3D. Problem is, of course, this image is in pretty rough shape. If we zoom in here, you can see that we've got a ton of noise. And we also have a lot of wandering colors.
As you can see up here at the top of the artwork. And a strange mark on the Wacom tablet, not sure what that is. But the image is obviously in need of repair. So, the first thing I'm going to do is, double click on the background, here inside the Layers panel. In order to convert it to a new layer. And I'll go ahead and call this layer 3D print, and click okay. Now we want to convert the image to a smart object, by right-clicking inside the image window with the rectangular marquee tool, and then I'll choose Convert to Smart Object.
Assuming that you're working inside of Photoshop CC you go up to the filter menu and you choose Camera Raw filter. And if you're working in an older version of Photoshop by the way. Then you'll just need to right click on this image inside bridge. And choose Open in Camera Raw. So, it's still possible to edit this JPEG in Camera Raw regardless of which version of the software you own. All right. The first thing I want to do is take the contrast value up to 50, because I want more contrast in the image.
I don't really care about the temperature or tint values, because there's not a heck of a lot of color going on. But I do want to increase the amount of edge contrast, so we can really see the detail inside that 3D printing. So, I'll go ahead and increase the clarity value to its maximum of 100. Now at this point, we probably have a few blown highlights, so I'll press Ctrl+0, or Cmd+0 on the Mac to zoom out. And the best way to see them is to go up to this Highlight Clipping Warning icon in the upper right corner of the window. And click on it to turn on, and then you'll see the clip twilights in red, here in the background.
And we don't really get rid of em until I take the white's value down to about negative 70. They all start to pretty much disappear. And that gives us better detail inside of the 3D printing as well, because we certainly don't want any blown highlights there. I do want to deepen the blacks, so I'll go ahead and take this black value down until we get some shadow clipping. So, I'll go ahead and turn on the shadow clipping warning, again, up here at the top of the window. And I'll drag the black's value over to about negative 15 is what I'm looking for, and the clip shadows are showing up as blue, incidentally here inside the image preview.
Now we need to get rid of that noise, so I'm going to press Ctrl+Alt+0, or Cmd+Alt+0 on the mac in order to zoom in to 100%, so that I can see what's going on. Down here. And I'll switch over to the Detail panel, which is the third icon in. And let's go ahead and increase this luminance value to 50, which does a good job of getting rid of that noise inside of the Walcom tablet. But does a little bit too good of a job here inside of the bull himself.
I want to see that detail. These sort of strata lines here. That show how the 3D printer built this object up. So, notice this Luminance detail option right there. It's very similar to the detail value that's associated with sharpening. So, if I were to increase the sharpening value to, let's say, its maximum here, and then I were to crank up the detail value. You can see that we end up bringing out kind of weird details inside the imagery. And that's what happening with luminous detail as well. Let me show you what I mean.
I'll go ahead and take this detail value down, the one that's associated with sharpening, down to zero. And now, I'll go ahead and move this detail value up where noise reduction is concerned. And you can see that we bring out these kind of tiny details here, inside of the 3D print. Now, I don't want quite that much. So, I'm going to back this value off. I'm actually going to take it all the way down to 25. Because otherwise we end up retaining a lot of noise here inside the Wacom tablet.
But, I'm also going to take the luminance value down so that we're defeating less noise. And notice as I do I'm bringing out. Those straddle lines that I was talking about. I'm going to take it down to 25 and I'll keep the luminous detail value at 25 as well. Luminance contrast doesn't tend to make that much difference, although you can fool around with it if you like. Now I'm going to zoom out some more so that we can take on this color noise. I'll take the color value up to fifty for starters here, and you can see that doesn't really totally get rid of that wandering noise.
We still have some splotches of purple and sort of greenish stuff going on And that's a function of color smoothness. If you take color smoothness all the way up to 100, you'll get rid of those big areas of wandering color. So, the color value gets rid of next door neighbors. That is to say pixel-level color noise. And then color smoothness attacks big areas as we're seeing here. I'm going to go ahead and turn off those clipping warnings, so that we can better see what we're doing. So, Il'l turn off shadow clipping Warning and then I'll turn off highlight clipping warning.
In the upper right corner of the dialogue box. And now we need to clean up the marks on the tablet, and just the other sort of grunge inside of this image using the Spot Removal tool. And I've got my size value set pretty small so I'll press the bright bracket key a few times to make it a little bigger here. And so I've got a size value of nine and a feather value of 30 for what that's worth. Type is set to heal. Then I'll just go ahead and click on that guy in order to get rid of it. And then it's up to you how much more work you do inside the image. There's a lot of little sort of schnivels inside of this image popping up all over this tablet.
Obviously, Daniel, the guy who shot this photo, needs to clean his walcom tablet before he takes another picture. Alright, I'm going to take this guy down a little bit. The green indicates the source, for the healing and the red indicates the destination. I'll go ahead and zoom in, cause we want to make sure that we've got a match. So, I'll turn off the Show Overlay check box. And, things appear to work out pretty well. We've got a little bit of an edge right there. And if that bugs you, than you can turn show overlay back on. And then nudge this guy just up a little bit.
I don't think that really did the trick. Lets see if that does it this time around. Then I'll turn off the check box again. And everything appears to line up very nicely. Then I'll just click right about there in order to set another little sort of fix. And here's another one that I might want to get rid of and there's one here. And then there's kind of one right here. This little elbow. And in this case I'm just going to drag over it. Like so, so that I'm healing more than a spot at a time. Alright I imagine right about now that the video is about exciting as watching paint dry.
So I'll leave it at that. This is enough clean up. Ope, this guy right there. And then if you want to return to your normal panels here, you switch back to the zoom tool. And then you can see that I've got the sharpening cranked a little high. I'm going to take that amount value down to 100. I'll leave the radius value set to 1.0. I want a detail value of zero. You never want to crank this value up unless you have a super smooth image, and a masking value of zero is fine to. And now I'll click okay in order to clean up that image. It made a big difference.
Notice this is before if I press Ctrl+z or Cmd+z on a Mac. Got that big splotch right there. And this is after. So, looks much better and we're still seeing this nice detail inside the printed bull. So, this is a before version and this is an after version, but you know what? I think I want more sharpness still. With my smart object active, I'll return to the filter menu, choose sharpen, and then choose smart sharpen. These are the values I'm looking for, an amount of 250%, which seems like an awful lot. I know. A radius of five pixels.
Is going to work. Assuming that you're working inside Photoshop CC. If you're working in Photoshop CS6 or earlier, then you'll want a radius value of about 2.5 to 3 pixels. Reduced noise, 0%. That's not even available in CS6. And then remove should be set to lens blur. Then I'll click okay in order to apply that filter. And now we want to blend things. Because otherwise, we're going to bring out some weird color noise here and there inside the image. So. Double-click on the little slider icon to the right of the words Smart Sharpen, to bring up the Blending Options dialog box.
Change the mode to Luminosity. You want to do this every time you sharpen an image. And then reduce the opacity in our case, because I've been a little heavy handed. We're going to reduce the opacity level to 50%, and then click okay. And now to get a sense of the difference here, I'll go ahead and turn off all the smart filters by clicking on this eye icon right here. So, that's the before version of the image. You can even see wandering colors inside the 3D print right there. And this is the after version of the image, which looks so much better.
Especially if I zoom out to a reasonable size. Still a few little bits of dirt that I need to clean up, and I can always do that by double-clicking on Camera Raw Filter and applying some more changes with the Spot Removal tool. So, once again I'll go ahead and press the f key a couple of times in order to switch to the full screen mode. And I'll zoom in on the image so that we can see it nice and big. This is the before version, the original version of this iPhone photograph. And this is the after version, nicely corrected thanks to the power of Camera Raw and smart sharpen working together here inside Photoshop.
Now you might ask, what's up for next week? Now, I wouldn't want to spoil the surprise, because next weeks thing falls on April 1st. Deke's Techniques each and every week, keep watching.
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